Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:24 AM - Re: rivets (kitfoxmike)
2. 08:27 AM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Bob Collins)
3. 10:31 AM - Re: elevator balance weight (HCRV6@comcast.net)
4. 11:12 AM - Re: elevator balance weight (Dale Ensing)
5. 12:38 PM - Re: elevator balance weight (Ed Holyoke)
6. 12:39 PM - Re: elevator balance weight (Ed Holyoke)
7. 03:14 PM - Re: Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Jerry Springer)
8. 03:47 PM - Re: Sam James fiberglass video (Dave)
9. 04:28 PM - Capacitance sender (Dennis & Helga Enns)
10. 04:37 PM - Re: Re: rivets (Doc Custer)
11. 06:44 PM - yuk yuk (Wheeler North)
12. 10:19 PM - Re: elevator balance weight (HCRV6@comcast.net)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
Gee, I thought that dot in the center was for drilling them back out.
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
rv7 wingkit
reserved 287RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58727#58727
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
> This thread equals about 500 rivets that could have be
> set? I say rivet on. If you want to offer a price to
> buy Van's booming business... well
Heh heh. In my next life, I actually don't want to OWN Van's. I want to be
Ken Krueger. How good must the job security be when you're the guy who
designs the most popular homebuilts in the world? And how cool must it be to
know that the most popular homebuilt in the world came straight out of your
head?
Do not archive.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: elevator balance weight |
Ed,
Not sure where you are coming from on this. After paint I had to add about 2 ounces
to the left elevator and about 1 ounce to the right if memory serves me
correctly. The paint definitely increased weight aft of the pivot, not forward
as you are suggesting.
I balanced the elevators separately because once they are installed with the manual
trim cable in place it would be impossible to get a meaningful balance indication.
BTW, the way I did it worked well by installing the added weight behind the existing
weight pocket using a couple of rivnuts thru the elevator tip rib. Worked
good for me.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"
>
>
>
> Howdy list,
>
> I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I went
> with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier lead
> counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the left
> elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing edge
> while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without the
> trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the extra
> weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and paint, but
> I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance weight
> and I'll need extra on the right side to do the final balance on the
> whole assembly rather than balancing each individually. I know that it
> all depends on how heavy the paint is and I'm not sure what that will
> be.
>
> How much did you have to remove from the weights on your airplane to get
> it to balance after paint? Did the left elevator have enough weight or
> did it need make up weight on the other elevator?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Ed,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Not sure where you are coming from on this. After paint I had to add
about 2 ounces to the left elevator and about 1 ounce to the right if memory
serves me correctly. The paint definitely increased weight aft of the pivot,
not forward as you are suggesting. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I balanced the elevators separately because once they are installed with the
manual trim cable in place it would be impossible to get a meaningful balance
indication.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>BTW, the way I did it worked well by installing the added weight behind the
existing weight pocket using a couple of rivnuts thru the elevator tip rib.
Worked good for me.</DIV>
<DIV class=signature id=signature>--<BR>Harry Crosby <BR>RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Ed Holyoke"
<bicyclop@pacbell.net> <BR><BR>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed
Holyoke" <BICYCLOP@PACBELL.NET><BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Howdy list,
<BR>> <BR>> I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage.
I went <BR>> with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier
lead <BR>> counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint,
the left <BR>> elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the
trailing edge <BR>> while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy
without the <BR>> trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove
some of the extra <BR>> weight from the right elevator before I rivet on
the tip and paint, but <BR>> I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have
enough c-balance weight <BR>> and I'll need extr
a on t
=====
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: elevator balance weight |
Van's phone person told me to do final balance of the elevators after
they were joined (Without the manual trim control connected if that is
your setup.)
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: HCRV6@comcast.net
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator balance weight
Ed,
Not sure where you are coming from on this. After paint I had to add
about 2 ounces to the left elevator and about 1 ounce to the right if
memory serves me correctly. The paint definitely increased weight aft
of the pivot, not forward as you are suggesting.
I balanced the elevators separately because once they are installed
with the manual trim cable in place it would be impossible to get a
meaningful balance indication.
BTW, the way I did it worked well by installing the added weight
behind the existing weight pocket using a couple of rivnuts thru the
elevator tip rib. Worked good for me.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"
>
>
>
> Howdy list,
>
> I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I
went
> with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier
lead
> counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the
left
> elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing
edge
> while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without
the
> trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the
extra
> weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and
paint, but
> I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance
weight
> and I'll need extr a on t ======
Message 5
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| Subject: | elevator balance weight |
Dale,
Yeah, we've got the manual trim. If it were the electric setup with the
servo in the elevator, there'd be no way that the supplied weights would
be enough to balance the left elevator separately even before paint.
That would mean that the bolted together assembly would indeed be the
only way to balance, short of adding weight to the left side. Perhaps it
is of little value to balance them individually, but it is how I'd like
to do it if possible. If they do become separated in flight, flutter
will likely be the least of my problems. ;-)
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Ensing
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator balance weight
Van's phone person told me to do final balance of the elevators after
they were joined (Without the manual trim control connected if that is
your setup.)
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: HCRV6@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator balance weight
Ed,
Not sure where you are coming from on this. After paint I had to add
about 2 ounces to the left elevator and about 1 ounce to the right if
memory serves me correctly. The paint definitely increased weight aft
of the pivot, not forward as you are suggesting.
I balanced the elevators separately because once they are installed with
the manual trim cable in place it would be impossible to get a
meaningful balance indication.
BTW, the way I did it worked well by installing the added weight behind
the existing weight pocket using a couple of rivnuts thru the elevator
tip rib. Worked good for me.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"
>
>
>
> Howdy list,
>
> I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I went
> with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier lead
> counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the
left
> elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing edge
> while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without the
> trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the
extra
> weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and paint,
but
> I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance
weight
> and I'll need extr a on t ======
com/Navigator?RV-List
Message 6
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| Subject: | elevator balance weight |
Harry,
You've got me wrong. I do understand that the paint is going to move the
balance point aft.
Van's directions say that weight will have to be removed from the
counterbalances by drilling holes implying that the weights are too
heavy. The balance point is much further forward on the right side and
I'm wondering if I can remove some of the extra weight now. I'm wanting
to get a little closer to the correct weight so that I don't have to
swiss cheese it so much later.
One thing I did after asking the question yesterday was too attach the
outboard weights to the elevators with rivets holding nutplates so that
I'll be able to remove the inboard weights and shave and/or drill the
back sides where it won't be visible.
Do you have the .020 skins and the .020 weights?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HCRV6@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator balance weight
Ed,
Not sure where you are coming from on this. After paint I had to add
about 2 ounces to the left elevator and about 1 ounce to the right if
memory serves me correctly. The paint definitely increased weight aft
of the pivot, not forward as you are suggesting.
I balanced the elevators separately because once they are installed with
the manual trim cable in place it would be impossible to get a
meaningful balance indication.
BTW, the way I did it worked well by installing the added weight behind
the existing weight pocket using a couple of rivnuts thru the elevator
tip rib. Worked good for me.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"
>
>
>
> Howdy list,
>
> I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I went
> with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier lead
> counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the
left
> elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing edge
> while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without the
> trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the
extra
> weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and paint,
but
> I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance
weight
> and I'll need extr a on t ======
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
>From: Bob Collins <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>Date: 2006/08/31 Thu AM 10:27:00 CDT
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
>> This thread equals about 500 rivets that could have be
>> set? I say rivet on. If you want to offer a price to
>> buy Van's booming business... well
>
>Heh heh. In my next life, I actually don't want to OWN Van's. I want to be
>Ken Krueger. How good must the job security be when you're the guy who
>designs the most popular homebuilts in the world? And how cool must it be to
>know that the most popular homebuilt in the world came straight out of your
>head?
>
>Do not archive.
>
>
That is not quite true, Van had the most popular homebuilt in the world before
Ken started work there. he has defiantly helped with the construction procedures
but did not really have anything to do with the design itself of the earlier
kits.
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Sam James fiberglass video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
Oops, Sorry, didn't mean to send it to the list.
Do not archive!!!
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam James fiberglass video
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
>
> Andy,
>
> I caved in an bought the dvd from you. Plus a few other things. Thanks
> for the website
>
> Dave
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <agold@actechbooks.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam James fiberglass video
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
>> <agold@actechbooks.com>
>>
>> Builder's Bookstore has them in stock
>> http://www.buildersbooks.com/fiberglass_101.htm?19,52
>>
>> Andy
>> 800 780-4115
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:37 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: Sam James fiberglass video
>>
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
>>>
>>> Listers
>>>
>>> Anyone have a Sam James fiberglass dvd there are ready to sell?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> Do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Capacitance sender |
I am using Van's capacitance plates but need info on the capacitance to
voltage converter. I will be using a Dynon EMS D10 for fuel level display.
1. Source for converter
2. Make and model number
3. How is the connection made between the converter and the BNC connection
on the tanks.
4. How many and what gauge wires need to be run between the converter and
the Dynon EMS.
I expect the converters will be installed in the wing roots but would really
like to get a handle on the wiring so I can proceed with it.
PS: I have tried to contacting Princeton Electronics but get no reply to
email or voice mail. I also understand that Dynon is working on a converter
design but it has not yet reached the try out stage.
Thanks
Dennis Enns
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us>
Chuckle
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 8:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
>
> Gee, I thought that dot in the center was for drilling them back out.
>
> --------
> kitfoxmike
> kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
> http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
> rv7 wingkit
> reserved 287RV
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58727#58727
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Interesting rant on vans plans
you guys ought to try working on certified AC with certified
manuals/plans...
often 43.13 is the best thing you have.... particularly on the old ones.
The reason they call them aircraft is because you are supposed to be a
craft's person to build 'em and to fly 'em.
Vans plan's fasteners diameters are rarely wrong but lengths are always
wrong, buy a ruler or inside bolt hole gauge and get over it.
2117 AD structural rivets should have a dimple in the top, one only. These
come in flush an426 or universal an470 head design mostly these days.
They tend to be good for about five to ten years then need to be reannealed
as they do age harden slowly. Try crushing a few if they cracks chuck 'em or
anneal 'em.
No dimple means 1100 soft aluminum and the list goes on, check AC43.13 1A or
1B or AC65-15A for the list.
W
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | elevator balance weight |
Ed,
OK, I understand. I planned to fly my -6 before painting so I balanced the elevators
first without paint, then had to add weight after painting to rebalance.
Your approach sounds good if you plan to paint before first flight, then shave
the weights as required to balance. Hopefully they are oversize to start
with. When I built my elevators we still had to cast the weights into the tips.
Oh yes, I have the 0.016 skins.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Harry,
Youve got me wrong. I do understand that the paint is going to move the balance
point aft.
Vans directions say that weight will have to be removed from the counterbalances
by drilling holes implying that the weights are too heavy. The balance point
is much further forward on the right side and Im wondering if I can remove some
of the extra weight now. Im wanting to get a little closer to the correct weight
so that I dont have to swiss cheese it so much later.
One thing I did after asking the question yesterday was too attach the outboard
weights to the elevators with rivets holding nutplates so that Ill be able to
remove the inboard weights and shave and/or drill the back sides where it wont
be visible.
Do you have the .020 skins and the .020 weights?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HCRV6@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator balance weight
Ed,
Not sure where you are coming from on this. After paint I had to add about 2 ounces
to the left elevator and about 1 ounce to the right if memory serves me
correctly. The paint definitely increased weight aft of the pivot, not forward
as you are suggesting.
I balanced the elevators separately because once they are installed with the manual
trim cable in place it would be impossible to get a meaningful balance indication.
BTW, the way I did it worked well by installing the added weight behind the existing
weight pocket using a couple of rivnuts thru the elevator tip rib. Worked
good for me.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"
>
>
>
> Howdy list,
>
> I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I went
> with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier lead
> counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the left
> elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing edge
> while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without the
> trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the extra
> weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and paint, but
> I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance weight
> and I'll need extr a on t ======
- The RV-List Email Forum -
-->
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-->
- NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
-->
- List Contribution Web Site -
Thank you for your generous support!
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-->
<html><body>
<DIV>Ed,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>OK, I understand. I planned to fly my -6 before painting so I balanced
the elevators first without paint, then had to add weight after painting to
rebalance. Your approach sounds good if you plan to paint before first
flight, then shave the weights as required to balance. Hopefully they are
oversize to start with. When I built my elevators we still had to cast
the weights into the tips.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Oh yes, I have the 0.016 skins.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Harry Crosby <BR>RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Ed Holyoke"
<bicyclop@pacbell.net> <BR>
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<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Harry,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Youve got me wrong. I do understand that
the paint is going to move the balance point aft. <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Vans directions say that weight will have
to be removed from the counterbalances by drilling holes implying that the weights
are too heavy. The balance point is much further forward on the right side
and Im wondering if I can remove some of the extra weight now. <SPAN class=GramE>Im
wanting</SPAN> to get a little closer to the correct weight so that
I dont have to swiss cheese it so much later.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">One thing I did after asking the question
yesterday was too attach the outboard weights to the elevators with rivets holding
nutplates so that Ill be able to remove the inboard weights and shave and/or
drill the back sides where it wont be visible. <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Do you have the .020 skins and the .020
weights?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Pax,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Ed Holyoke<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">-----Original Message-----<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] <B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">On Behalf Of </SPAN></B>HCRV6@comcast.net<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> </SPAN></FONT><?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:date Year="2006" Day="31" Month="8"><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">Thursday, August 31, 2006</SPAN></FONT></st1:date><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma"> </SPAN></FONT><st1:time Minute="31" Hour="10"><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">10:31 AM</SPAN></FONT></st1:time><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma"><BR><
B><SPA
N style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> rv-list@matronics.com<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT:
bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re: RV-List: elevator balance weight</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Ed,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">Not sure where you are coming from on this.
After paint I had to add about 2 ounces to the left elevator and about 1
ounce to the right if memory serves me correctly. The paint definitely increased
weight aft of the pivot, not forward as you are suggesting. <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">I balanced the elevators separately because once
they are installed with the manual trim cable in place it would be impossible
to get a meaningful balance indication.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">BTW, the way I did it worked well by installing
the added weight behind the existing weight pocket using a couple of rivnuts
thru the elevator tip rib. Worked good for me.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV id=signature>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">--<BR>Harry Crosby <BR>RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium
none; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM:
0in; MARGIN-LEFT: 3.75pt; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP:
0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">-------------- Original message --------------
<BR>From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net> <BR><BR>> --> RV-List
message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <BR><BICYCLOP@PACBELL.NET>> <BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> Howdy list, <BR>> <BR>> I've rebuilt the elevators on our
6 due to pedestrian damage. I went <BR>> with the .020 skins (previously
.016) and am using the heavier lead <BR>> counterbalance weights recommended
for these skins. Pre-paint, the left <BR>> elevator balances with only about
an ounce or two on the trailing edge <BR>> while the right elevator is
considerably more nose heavy without the <BR>> trim tab and associated structure.
I'd like to remove some of the extra <BR>> weight from the right elevator
before I rivet on the tip and paint, but <BR>> I'm concerned that the
left elevator won't have enough c-balance weight <BR
>>
and I'll need extr a on t ====== <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P><PRE style="MARGIN-LEFT:
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