Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:02 AM - Re: Did you paint your own airplane? (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
2. 04:35 AM - Re: T-3A Firefly Aircraft Destroyed (Dana Overall)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: Denver area RV'rs (Ron Lee)
4. 06:57 AM - Re: Denver area RV'rs (Phil Birkelbach)
5. 07:15 AM - Re: Denver area RV'rs (Dave Johnson)
6. 09:25 AM - Re: Did you paint your own airplane? (linn Walters)
7. 10:12 AM - Re: Re: Denver area RV'rs (Ron Lee)
8. 11:37 AM - Re: Did you paint your own airplane? (smitty@smittysrv.com)
9. 11:37 AM - Re: Did you paint your own airplane? ()
10. 12:35 PM - Re: Did you paint your own airplane? (John Porter)
11. 12:40 PM - Re: Did you paint your own airplane? (linn Walters)
12. 03:30 PM - Re: Re: Iridite Wanted to Buy (Doug Gray)
13. 03:52 PM - Re: Did you paint your own airplane? (Kyle Boatright)
14. 05:20 PM - Re: Denver area RV'rs (John Loretz)
15. 05:30 PM - aerobatics and constant speed prop (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
16. 05:32 PM - Re: Denver area RV'rs (Denis Walsh)
17. 06:37 PM - Re: aerobatics and constant speed prop (Dan Checkoway)
18. 07:14 PM - Using Alodine on an assembled aircraft was Re: Re: Iridite Wanted to Buy (Charlie Kuss)
19. 07:33 PM - Re: Fuel Pumps (Charlie Kuss)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Did you paint your own airplane? |
Thanks for reminding me why I won't personally paint mine and when the time comes
will happily write that check to a pro! :-)
They fly great unpainted. It's hangared. I suppose it'll get painted when I stop
smiling every time I look at it and I'm glad I was flying instead of painting
these past 6 months.
Question I do have is what's the short/long term affects on the fiberglass parts
that aren't painted? I have some primer on some fiberglass parts but not all
of them. Spinner comes to mind as something that's not primed at the moment.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: JhnstnIII@aol.com
I will chime in. I painted our RV-6 at my house. I believe it took about six
months of steady night and weekend work plus some vacation days. People tell
me it looks very good and I think so, too. Paint was Dupont Imron over Variprime,
three colors. Surface was etched but not alodined.
It was a big and difficult job, but then nothing about these projects is easy in
my opinion. This was my first airplane. I would do it again
Talk to painters with experience first. They will have many good tips.
I painted parts in a room in my house and later in the garage when the weather
got warm. In both places we rigged a powerful squirrel cage fan (from a buddy--it
was like what is in your furnace) to exhaust the fumes to the outside. We
built a wooden exhaust plenum with three round outlets to split the exhaust
into three flexible 6 inch dia. ducts about eight feet long that lay on the ground
spread apart with bricks in them to hold them down. The idea was to diffuse
the exhaust so as not to paint the outside of the house. For the inlet
to the room/garage, we built a plywood door panel with two large furnace filters
in it and a latch mechanism to alow ingress and egress.
In a separate room away from the fumes we had a Hobbyair respirator and the hose
went through a hole in the wall to the paint room.
When painting I wore a Tyvek paint suit, painter's stretchy hood (like a balaclava)
and gloves plus the respirator mask. I always had fresh air flowing into
the mask and could not smell the paint. My understanding was this paint will
kill you and you should take no chances on fumes.
We have a large air compressor. We bought a $400 system that goes in the line
to dry the air, remove all oil drops, and remove all debris. The cannister with
silica that dries the air lasted the whole job without needing to be replaced.
I used a Devilbiss HVLP gun.
We filled all the rivets, not to go faster (unlikely), but to make the paint easier
to flow out. This is a lot of work but it sure is pretty later and it is
easier to paint especially on the unavoidable vertical surfaces like the fuselage
sides. Still looking for a filler that goes on easy, sands easy, and is
smooth. We tried various. Because we essentially sanded it all off, weight gain
was negligible.
I'm remembering now what a pain the filling of pinholes in the fiberglass parts
was. I hate them pinholes. Not sure what a professional painter would do about
them.
I'm not sure of our exact costs. I'm guessing paint, equipment, endless paper towels
and gloves, sandpaper, etc, probably came to $3,000. I did a lot of things
over as I learned, Imron can be sanded and I did plenty of that.
The difficult part is the art of paint application--too little and you have orange
peel, too much and it runs. The distance between the two is narrow.
Here's the thing. When it's over, you forget the misery and the time. You fly
and you're happy.
LeRoy Johnston and David White in Ohio. RV-6 Esperanza--flying.
<html><body>
<DIV>Thanks for reminding me why I won't personally paint mine and when the time
comes will happily write that check to a pro! :-)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>They fly great unpainted. It's hangared. I suppose it'll get
painted when I stop smiling every time I look at it and I'm glad I was flying
instead of painting these past 6 months.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Question I do have is what's the short/long term affects on the fiberglass
parts that aren't painted? I have some primer on some fiberglass parts
but not all of them. Spinner comes to mind as something that's not
primed at the moment.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: JhnstnIII@aol.com
<BR>
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2963" name=GENERATOR><FONT id=role_document face=Arial
color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>I will chime in. I painted our RV-6 at my house. I believe it
took about six months of steady night and weekend work plus some vacation days.
People tell me it looks very good and I think so, too. Paint
was Dupont Imron over Variprime, three colors. Surface was etched
but not alodined. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It was a big and difficult job, but then nothing about these projects is easy
in my opinion. This was my first airplane. I would do it again
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Talk to painters with experience first. They will have many good tips.
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I painted parts in a room in my house and later in the garage when the
weather got warm. In both places we rigged a powerful squirrel cage
fan (from a buddy--it was like what is in your furnace) to exhaust the fumes
to the outside. We built a wooden exhaust plenum with three
round outlets to split the exhaust into three flexible 6 inch dia. ducts
about eight feet long that lay on the ground spread apart with bricks in
them to hold them down. The idea was to diffuse the exhaust so
as not to paint the outside of the house. For the inlet to
the room/garage, we built a plywood door panel with two large furnace filters
in it and a latch mechanism to alow ingress and egress. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a separate room away from the fumes we had a Hobbyair respirator and the
hose went through a hole in the wall to the paint room. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>When painting I wore a Tyvek paint suit, painter's stretchy hood (like
a balaclava) and gloves plus the respirator mask. I always had fresh
air flowing into the mask and could not smell the paint. My understanding
was this paint will kill you and you should take no chances on fumes.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>We have a large air compressor. We bought a $400 system that goes in
the line to dry the air, remove all oil drops, and remove all debris.
The cannister with silica that dries the air lasted the whole job without
needing to be replaced. I used a Devilbiss HVLP gun. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>We filled all the rivets, not to go faster (unlikely), but to make the paint
easier to flow out. This is a lot of work but it sure is pretty later
and it is easier to paint especially on the unavoidable vertical surfaces like
the fuselage sides. Still looking for a filler that goes on easy, sands
easy, and is smooth. We tried various. Because we essentially
sanded it all off, weight gain was negligible.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I'm remembering now what a pain the filling of pinholes in the fiberglass
parts was. I hate them pinholes. Not sure what a professional painter
would do about them. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I'm not sure of our exact costs. I'm guessing paint, equipment, endless
paper towels and gloves, sandpaper, etc, probably came to $3,000. I did
a lot of things over as I learned, Imron can be sanded and I did plenty
of that.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The difficult part is the art of paint application--too little and you have
orange peel, too much and it runs. The distance between the two is narrow.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Here's the thing. When it's over, you forget the misery and the time.
You fly and you're happy.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>LeRoy Johnston and David White in Ohio. RV-6 Esperanza--flying.</DIV></FONT><PRE><B><FONT
face="courier new,courier" size=2 color000000?>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 2
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| Subject: | T-3A Firefly Aircraft Destroyed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I, like anyone interested in engine purchasing, checked about buying some of
the firewall forward 540's. I found out one could not get within 100's of
purchasing the engines. The vendor has a very strict stipulation these
engines, and anything on the airplanes, is never to fly again. A total
waste of money on our part. On the side of the engines, they have been down
since 1997 unpickled.
Vote in Nov.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
>From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@bpaengines.com>
>To: <engines-list@matronics.com>, <rv10-list@matronics.com>,
><rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: T-3A Firefly Aircraft Destroyed
>Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 16:17:01 -0500
>
>Sorry for the cross postings, but I felt this issue was worthwhile. See
>below an email sent to several news agencies. In addition, a letter is
>in the draft stages to Sen. Jim Inhofe, who is a member of the Senate
>Arms Committee and a GA advocate. I encourage you to do the same.
>
>
>"Please review the attached stories regarding the Air Force's disposal
>of 110 T-3A Firefly airplanes that cost the American taxpayers
>$33,000,000. These airplanes were grounded after three fatal accidents.
>It was determined that the airplanes had fuel delivery problems.
>
>
>http://www.txaa.org/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=1554
>
>http://www.af.mil/news/story.asp?storyID=123026857
>
>
>Generally when aircraft are destroyed, they are disassembled and the
>good components are then sold through auction or salvage. The Air
>Force, however, has completely destroyed all components, including new
>engines and propellers still in the crates from the factory.
>
>
>My company is an engine overhaul facility which supports the general
>aviation market. The engines associated with these aircraft are used in
>a multitude of certified and experimental aircraft with very reliable
>results and are highly sought after. In fact, we had already begun
>inquiries with the GSA on how to bid on these components when these
>stories came across our desk.
>
>
>What a waste of the taxpayer's money!! I feel confident that even those
>individuals who don't have a passion for flight would find this type of
>activity deplorable. I hope you will give this story your
>consideration."
>
>
>Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>
>Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>
>2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>
>Tulsa, OK 74115
>
>(918) 835-1089
>
>www.barrettprecisionengines.com
><http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-engines-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-engines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>Speedy11@aol.com
>Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 10:14 AM
>To: engines-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Engines-List: FYI
>
>
>The US Air Force has announced that it will scrap all 110 remaining
>T-3A Firefly training aircraft in the fleet. The planes were grounded
>in 1997 after numerous incidents and three crashes. While the Air Force
>attributed two of the fatal mishaps to pilot error, all three accidents
>involved problems with the engine, a six cylinder Textron Lycoming
>AEIO-540-D4A5 generating 260 hp driving a three-bladed prop.
>
>According to GlobalSecurity.org, the T-3A's engine had failed 66 times
>during takeoffs or landings. The Air Force grounded 57 of the planes on
>ten separate occasions due to problems with either engines, fuel
>systems, or brakes.
>
>Do not archive
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Denver area RV'rs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>I am on the southeast side. Pretty close to 470 and smokey hill. Do you
>west side boys
>get together for breakfast and that sort of thing?
You can find RV guys at Greeley for breakfast. The Meadow Lake (00V) bunch
tend to go to mountain airports for breakfast (Leadville and Salida being
the two
most common). One guy who joins us is now based at FTG.
Personally I am getting tired of those flights and want to go someplace. My
next trip is probably Devils Tower. It seems most guys at 00V don't want to
go places.
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Denver area RV'rs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
Here in Houston there are a bunch of RV builders that get together
once a month or so and we organize through a yahoo group that we
created. It works great.
Phil
RV-7 727WB
Do Not Archive
On Sep 14, 2006, at 22:55, bill shook wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: bill shook <billshook2000@yahoo.com>
>
> --- mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Bill ther are quite a few of us out at the Longmont Airport, about
>> twenty five flying
>> and I know of at least three or four under construction, so if you
>> are on the west
>> side of town are you closest to BJC or Longmont?
>> Mark Phipps, Flying RV6A
>
> I am on the southeast side. Pretty close to 470 and smokey hill.
> Do you west side boys
> get together for breakfast and that sort of thing?
>
> Bill
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Denver area RV'rs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Johnson" <rv@discursion.com>
I'm glad you asked, Bill. I have a 7A under construction and go to the monthly
EAA chapter meetings, but overall have been wanting to get to know some of the
local RVers more...seems like the groups are pretty well formed, and I feel a
little odd about inserting myself into the circle.
I live at Erie, BTW.
Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=61789#61789
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Did you paint your own airplane? |
Doug Medema wrote:
> My plane is almost 3 years old and is greatly in need of a paint job!
>
> I'm seriously thinking of painting it myself and have some questions
> for those of you who were brave enough (or foolish enough??) to paint
> your own airplane:
Painted a couple!
> Are you happy with the results?
Absolutely!
> Knowing what you know now, would you do it again or pay someone else?
"Pay someone else" for something I can do isn't part of my game plan. I
seem to have higher standards than a lot of paint shops. Look at older
model airplanes with a new paint job. Look real close. See what I
mean??? Anything will look good at 20 feet!!!
> Did you have any painting experience before you painted your plane?
A little. You will definitely learn quickly what areas of your painting
experience need work. Lay in a good supply of sandpaper and paint the
smaller pieces first, :-P
> Any idea of how many hours in prep and paint?
I'd say about 40 to 1. The better attention to detail in the prep stage
will make a lot of difference in the finished product.
> If you feel like typing:
> Which brand and type of paint did you use?
I've used Dupont Imron, PPG, Stits, and Sherwin Williams ..... and a few
others I can't recall. I like the 2-part urethanes best.
> What kind of paint gun? If HVLP, was it with a standard compressor
> or one of the special HVLP paint setups?
I've used both. The turbines will heat the paint as it sprays which
works better if you're in a humid environment, but the hose is a PITA to
handle. I tend to use the compressed air HVLP more than the turbine
type ...... which I have to borrow. Remember that building
experimentals is for the educational experience .... and learning to
paint is no different than learning to rivet or working with fabric.
Linn
do not archive
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM (just put on new main gear tires today!)
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Denver area RV'rs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
At 08:15 AM 9/15/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Johnson" <rv@discursion.com>
>
>I'm glad you asked, Bill. I have a 7A under construction and go to the
>monthly EAA chapter meetings, but overall have been wanting to get to know
>some of the local RVers more...seems like the groups are pretty well
>formed, and I feel a little odd about inserting myself into the circle.
>
>I live at Erie, BTW.
Just go introduce yourself. You may find that RV pilots are decent folks.
Of course the tail dragger pilots may shun you if you fly a tricycle gear RV
but that is their loss. :)
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Did you paint your own airplane? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "smitty@smittysrv.com" <smitty@smittysrv.com>
I think I'm going to paint mine myself. A good friend of mine told me
practice on a my metal trash can, to get the initial ah-ha's out of the
way. Besides, it will neighborhood association group something to talk
about.
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Did you paint your own airplane? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
snipped
> We have a large air compressor. We bought a $400 system that goes in the
> line to dry the air, remove all oil drops, and remove all debris. The
> cannister with silica that dries the air lasted the whole job without needing
to be
> replaced. snipped
> LeRoy Johnston and David White in Ohio. RV-6 Esperanza--flying.
LeRoy,
Could you tell us more about the drier unit you used? What make and model? Where
did you buy it?
Charlie Kuss
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Did you paint your own airplane? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Porter" <december29@bellsouth.net>
Smitty,
Trust me, anyone who builds an airplane in their garage/shop ("You mean
real people can fly in it, is that legal?") give the homeowner's
association plenty to talk about...............now we need to talk to you
about the nude sunbathing on the back deck.
Next, I'm planning on building an Ark. I've got this
feeling.............anyone know how big a cubit is? ha,ha
Later,
John
#80002
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <smitty@smittysrv.com>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Did you paint your own airplane?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "smitty@smittysrv.com"
> <smitty@smittysrv.com>
>
> I think I'm going to paint mine myself. A good friend of mine told me
> practice on a my metal trash can, to get the initial ah-ha's out of the
> way. Besides, it will neighborhood association group something to talk
> about.
>
> Smitty
> http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Did you paint your own airplane? |
I think that's pricey. But then, I love 'toys' too!!! My system has
the typical oil/water collector on the tank. On the end of the air hose
that goes to my paint booth is a 'toilet paper' filter. Get it at any
good car paint store. It's a cast aluminum 'can' that's split in half
so you can put the filter in it. Comes with a spare filter if I
remember right. It's paper that reminds you of crepe paper. I've used
the original filter for a couple of years until I forgot to open it up
and let it dry out!!!! That's a key. When you run out of the original
filters, a plain old roll of toilet paper will work just fine.
Linn
do not archive
chaztuna@adelphia.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
>
>snipped
>
>
>>We have a large air compressor. We bought a $400 system that goes in the
>>line to dry the air, remove all oil drops, and remove all debris. The
>>cannister with silica that dries the air lasted the whole job without needing
to be
>>replaced. snipped
>>LeRoy Johnston and David White in Ohio. RV-6 Esperanza--flying.
>>
>>
>
>LeRoy,
> Could you tell us more about the drier unit you used? What make and model? Where
did you buy it?
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Iridite Wanted to Buy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
How would I alodine the outside skin prior to painting?
I am thinking of sloshing it on with a cloth rag from a bucket or is
there a better way?
Doug Gray
On Thu, 2006-09-14 at 12:18 -0700, chaztuna@adelphia.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Vini,
> Yes 1201 has a gold colored dye in it. The dye helps you determine when the
part has been exposed to the chemicals for the correct amount of time. Alodine
1200 is clear, and therefore much harder for the beginner to use.
> I would suggest checking with businesses who sell chemicals for the plating
trade (ie chrome plating, cadmium plating, anodizing, etc). My local supplier
of MacDirmid's Iridite 14-2, is:
>
> Allied Plating Supply
> Hialeah, Florida
> USA
>
> Note that the company's name tells you that they sell plating supplies. Perhaps
a Google search under PLATING SUPPLIES GERMANY would yield results?
> Good luck and let me know if you find a supplier.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> ---- Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi@googlemail.com> wrote:
> > Charlie Thanks for info. I will try to contact Henkel in Germany, You say
> > Alodine 1201 is the product I need.
> > Vini
> >
> >
> > 2006/9/14, Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a@yahoo.com>:
> > >
> > > Try
> > > http://www.eldoradochem.com/conversion-coatings.htm
> > >
> > >
> > > *Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi@googlemail.com>* wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Every body,
> > > This my first mail. I am first time builder, started with 9A emp. Can any
> > > one advise me where I can buy alodine powder in Germany.
> > > Thanks.
> > > Vini
> > >
> > >
> > > 2006/9/13, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com>:
> > > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > > >
> > > > I may have some powdered alodine that I might be willing to part
> > > > with. I'd have to look up my original price to even have a guess
> > > > at it's value, but I'm sure I have enough to make a few gallons
> > > > anyway. Contact me off-list if you think you might be interested
> > > > and I'll try to figure out what quantity I have.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > > > do not archive
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <
> > > > rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> > > > >
> > > > > I also saw the same effect with the older solution. I keep it in a
> > > > 32
> > > > > gallon Rubbermaid trash can that doubles as the dip tank. As it
> > > > > approached 6 months old it was taking forever for it to convert a
> > > > layer
> > > > > on the aluminum. I guessed that it was mainly due to the chemicals
> > > > > precipitating out and was apparently correct. I added a couple
> > > > aquarium
> > > > > style circulating power heads and it was like new after that. Going
> > > > on
> > > > > 1.5 years on the same original batch and completed the majority of
> > > > parts
> > > > > on my RV-10. I also keep it covered and out of direct sunlight.
> > > > >
> > > > > Michael Sausen
> > > > > -10 #352 Fuselage
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > > [mailto: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of messydeer
> > > > > Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 9:34 AM
> > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > > Subject: RV-List: Re: Iridite Wanted to Buy
> > > > >
> > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for the tips, again, Barry.
> > > > >
> > > > > I had talked with Henkel before using alodine. They had mentioned it
> > > > > could be recycled. What I found was that as I reused the solution, it
> > > > > took a longer dwell time to get the same results. So I ended up adding
> > > >
> > > > > straight alodine to the recycled solution. So I'd like to be prepared
> > > > to
> > > > > use solutions on the stronger side to speed up the process, especially
> > > > > since the baths will be tap water cold. I supposed I could use hot
> > > > water
> > > > > to start with, but it would cool quite a bit anyway before finishing
> > > > my
> > > > > parts for the day.
> > > > >
> > > > > Charlie:
> > > > >
> > > > > Where do you get your powder?
> > > > >
> > > > > Dan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Vinod Wahi
> > > SAP TD Team
> > > Novi Sad
> > > Mailto:vinod.wahi@googlemail.com
> > > Tel.: +381 64 482 1139
> > > Tel.Germany:+49 172 4038 502
> > >
> > > *
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > *
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Vinod Wahi
> > SAP TD Team
> > Novi Sad
> > Mailto:vinod.wahi@googlemail.com
> > Tel.: +381 64 482 1139
> > Tel.Germany:+49 172 4038 502
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Did you paint your own airplane? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Did you paint your own airplane?
> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
>
> snipped
>> We have a large air compressor. We bought a $400 system that goes in
>> the
>> line to dry the air, remove all oil drops, and remove all debris. The
>> cannister with silica that dries the air lasted the whole job without
>> needing to be
>> replaced. snipped
>> LeRoy Johnston and David White in Ohio. RV-6 Esperanza--flying.
>
> LeRoy,
> Could you tell us more about the drier unit you used? What make and model?
> Where did you buy it?
> Charlie Kuss
>
I'm sure the $400 unit is a great product, but I used two $10 harbor freight
air/water separators in series when I painted my plane and saw no evidence
of water reaching the spray gun. One item of wisdom I learned back then was
to make sure any separator you use is at a low point in the air piping
system, so any condensation in the lines runs down to the separator.
FYI, I live near Atlanta, GA and we have plenty of humidity here. One thing
which I'm sure helped was that whenever I was spraying paint (as opposed to
primer), I put the compressor inside the air conditioned house where the
humidity should have been far less than outdoor ambient.
KB
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Denver area RV'rs |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Loretz <rv8@loretz.us>
Centennial Airport RV8'er here...
On Sep 14, 2006, at 7:55 PM, bill shook wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: bill shook <billshook2000@yahoo.com>
>
> I'm told there is a fairly large group of us here in Denver. Front
> range airport in
> particular so I hear. Do we have a builders group of wise and
> knowledged builders that
> roam from home to home dispensing said knowledge in exchange for
> beer? Or perhaps the
> occasional get together at a place where aircraft are known to
> leave the ground and most
> of the time come back? Where are you gents hiding?
>
> Bill Shook
> -4 finally rolling again
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | aerobatics and constant speed prop |
For over the top maneuvers and Split Ss, how are folks setting up their MP/RPM
settings?
<html><body>
<DIV>For over the top maneuvers and Split Ss, how are folks setting up their MP/RPM
settings?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Denver area RV'rs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Bill, we have around 20 or 30 RVs at FTG, Front Range Airport. I
would be pleased to look in on your project and to have you on one of
our Saturday Sorties. You might come out to the Ch 301 meeting
tonight at APA, in the Adams Aircraft building at 1900. Or show up
at FTg before 0730 tomorrow or call me 303 717 0341 any time.
Denis Walsh
RV-6A at FTG. 1850 hours, nine years flying fairly regularly.
On Sep 14, 2006, at 07:47 748620009, Ron Lee wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
> At 07:55 PM 9/14/2006, you wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: bill shook <billshook2000@yahoo.com>
>>
>> I'm told there is a fairly large group of us here in Denver.
>> Front range airport in
>> particular so I hear. Do we have a builders group of wise and
>> knowledged builders that
>> roam from home to home dispensing said knowledge in exchange for
>> beer? Or perhaps the
>> occasional get together at a place where aircraft are known to
>> leave the ground and most
>> of the time come back? Where are you gents hiding?
>
> Can't divulge that but if you see an RV flying over the Denver
> Class B it
> may or may not be me.
>
> Ron
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: aerobatics and constant speed prop |
2400-2500 RPM is what I use for all light acro other than rolls (which I
do at basically any RPM).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: lucky
To: RV-List
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 5:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: aerobatics and constant speed prop
For over the top maneuvers and Split Ss, how are folks setting up
their MP/RPM settings?
Message 18
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|
Wanted to Buy
Doug,
My suggestion for applying both the etch and the Alodine would be
to purchase several small, "kiddie wading" pools. Also purchase a
solvent spray gun from Snap On or Harbor Freight. Here is one very
over priced idea.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=11586&group_ID=1544&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
I think I paid about $30 for this tool. Of course that was 30 years
ago, but I still have it. Harbor Freight sells a much more reasonably
priced item.
Put a pool under the area you want to etch. Add AlumiPrep (or
similar) to the pool. Place the siphon tube into the pool. Connect
your shop air hose to the sprayer. Spray the AlumiPrep onto the area
(say the tail cone of your fuselage as an example) until it is clean.
Most of the excess fluid will run back into the kiddie pool.
Remove the pool (with AlumiPrep) from under the area cleaned.
Quickly rinse off the area with a garden hose. Slide another kiddie
pool under the area. Add Alodine and repeat the process. Work by
sections until you are done. Do this on a cloudy day or somewhere
under shade if possible. Alodine, Iridite, DoradoKote, etc, are all
photo chemically reactive. The sun ruins the chemicals. They will
work the first day, but if used in strong sun light, will be useless
the next day (assuming you don't finish in one day).
Just an idea and worth what you paid for it.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
>How would I alodine the outside skin prior to painting?
>
>I am thinking of sloshing it on with a cloth rag from a bucket or is
>there a better way?
>
>Doug Gray
>
>
>On Thu, 2006-09-14 at 12:18 -0700, chaztuna@adelphia.net wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Vini,
> > Yes 1201 has a gold colored dye in it. The dye helps you
> determine when the part has been exposed to the chemicals for the
> correct amount of time. Alodine 1200 is clear, and therefore much
> harder for the beginner to use.
> > I would suggest checking with businesses who sell chemicals for
> the plating trade (ie chrome plating, cadmium plating, anodizing,
> etc). My local supplier of MacDirmid's Iridite 14-2, is:
> >
> > Allied Plating Supply
> > Hialeah, Florida
> > USA
> >
> > Note that the company's name tells you that they sell plating
> supplies. Perhaps a Google search under PLATING SUPPLIES GERMANY
> would yield results?
> > Good luck and let me know if you find a supplier.
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> > ---- Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi@googlemail.com> wrote:
> > > Charlie Thanks for info. I will try to contact Henkel in
> Germany, You say
> > > Alodine 1201 is the product I need.
> > > Vini
> > >
> > >
> > > 2006/9/14, Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a@yahoo.com>:
> > > >
> > > > Try
> > > > http://www.eldoradochem.com/conversion-coatings.htm
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > *Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi@googlemail.com>* wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Every body,
> > > > This my first mail. I am first time builder, started with 9A
> emp. Can any
> > > > one advise me where I can buy alodine powder in Germany.
> > > > Thanks.
> > > > Vini
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > 2006/9/13, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com>:
> > > > >
> > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > I may have some powdered alodine that I might be willing to part
> > > > > with. I'd have to look up my original price to even have a guess
> > > > > at it's value, but I'm sure I have enough to make a few gallons
> > > > > anyway. Contact me off-list if you think you might be interested
> > > > > and I'll try to figure out what quantity I have.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > > > > do not archive
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <
> > > > > rvbuilder@sausen.net>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I also saw the same effect with the older solution. I
> keep it in a
> > > > > 32
> > > > > > gallon Rubbermaid trash can that doubles as the dip tank. As it
> > > > > > approached 6 months old it was taking forever for it to convert a
> > > > > layer
> > > > > > on the aluminum. I guessed that it was mainly due to the chemicals
> > > > > > precipitating out and was apparently correct. I added a couple
> > > > > aquarium
> > > > > > style circulating power heads and it was like new after
> that. Going
> > > > > on
> > > > > > 1.5 years on the same original batch and completed the majority of
> > > > > parts
> > > > > > on my RV-10. I also keep it covered and out of direct sunlight.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Michael Sausen
> > > > > > -10 #352 Fuselage
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > > > [mailto: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of messydeer
> > > > > > Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2006 9:34 AM
> > > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > > > Subject: RV-List: Re: Iridite Wanted to Buy
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "messydeer" <messydeer@yahoo.com>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks for the tips, again, Barry.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I had talked with Henkel before using alodine. They had
> mentioned it
> > > > > > could be recycled. What I found was that as I reused the
> solution, it
> > > > > > took a longer dwell time to get the same results. So I
> ended up adding
> > > > >
> > > > > > straight alodine to the recycled solution. So I'd like to
> be prepared
> > > > > to
> > > > > > use solutions on the stronger side to speed up the
> process, especially
> > > > > > since the baths will be tap water cold. I supposed I could use hot
> > > > > water
> > > > > > to start with, but it would cool quite a bit anyway
> before finishing
> > > > > my
> > > > > > parts for the day.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Charlie:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Where do you get your powder?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Dan
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Vinod Wahi
> > > > SAP TD Team
> > > > Novi Sad
> > > > Mailto:vinod.wahi@googlemail.com
> > > > Tel.: +381 64 482 1139
> > > > Tel.Germany:+49 172 4038 502
> > > >
> > > > *
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > *
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Vinod Wahi
> > > SAP TD Team
> > > Novi Sad
> > > Mailto:vinod.wahi@googlemail.com
> > > Tel.: +381 64 482 1139
> > > Tel.Germany:+49 172 4038 502
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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|
Dan,
I wrote that post and I can't find it either. I've saved some of
this info on my hard drive. FYI, I wasn't the first one to figure out
you could buy this stuff.
I am including some of the stuff I saved on this subject below.
Charlie Kuss
I bought the same pump (API) from NAPA this morning. I will have to
use the plumbing and parts off of my API pump, but not a problem. The cost was
$134. Carter P/N is P74015. The box it came in reads Supplied to
NAPA by Carter Fuel Systems Federal Mogul Southfield, MI.
Kevin Ebsen
Listers,
I checked with my local auto parts supplier. The part number
supplied by Kevin is the actual Carter part number. These pumps are
used on the following vehicles.
1983-86 Ford & Mercury 4 cylinder engines
1971-82 Volvo 4 cylinder engines
1976-82 " 6 " "
1975-77 BMW 6 cylinder engines
1975-80 Cadillac 8 cylinder engines
I was quoted $137 (wholesale) Even if this is not a savings over
API's price, it's valuable information to have. At least if your pump
fails, you know you can get one at an auto parts store, rather than
Fed Ex ing one from API.
Charlie Kuss
The filter is from "Flow Ezy".
www.flowezy.com
I have a model 4ILA with 3/8 pipe thread, 74 micron screen, viton
O-ring, black color. PN- 4ILA-03-74-F3-BL
Be careful when modifying your fuel system. Unexpected things can happen.
George
Meketa RV8, <file://ACGM@GVTC.COM>ACGM@GVTC.COM
N444TX, 261.3 hours
FYI, This is a slightly smaller version of the 6 ILA model Airflow
Performance sells. Pegasus Auto Racing carries this item now, with
Viton seals (resists auto fuels, gasahol, etc) and a 25 micron
screen. I convinced RV-9A builder Chris Heitman (the owner) to stock
these by arranging a "group purchase" several years ago. I am using 2
of these units, one in each wing root area. See
http://flowezy.freeyellow.com/racingMODEL_4ILA.html
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=3469
For those who have the stock 6ILA filter sold by Airflow Performance
and Vans, you can get the Viton seals and better screen filter
elements from Flow Ezy or one of their distributors. It's harder to
find the model 6 ILA filter on Flow Ezy's web site, as they consider
it a "high pressure filter". See the 8th item from the top of the page below.
http://198.170.245.162/flowezypagehydraulicfilters.html#HIGHPRESSUREIN-LINEFILTER
I hope this helps
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Hi Mike,
>
>I tried to find message "121131" in the archives, but apparently it
>won't let me search on the message number. There are 1573 hits on
>"fuel pump". Any suggestions on how to find messages relevant to this pump?
>
>do not archive
>
>Thanks,
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A IO-360-A1A
>
>
>In a message dated 9/12/2006 6:42:06 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>mstewart@iss.net writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>A direct fuel pump replacement for the AFP electric fuel pump is the
>Carter fuel pump part number P74015
>
>I have replaced mine on the road before readily available from Napa or
>autozone ~$120
>A search of the archives will help. Message 121131
>
>It was Charlie Kuss that had all the G2 on the pumps and filters. I had
>2 pumps maybe 3 die on my rv-6 in 1500 hours. I had to run my pump above
>7k' for vapor lock so mine ran a lot. A change in the filter element to
>a finer filter solved the problem and I used that same smaller micron
>filter for my 8.
>
>
>Enjoy,
>Mike
>
>
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