Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:19 AM - Re: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem (Doug Gray)
2. 02:59 AM - Re: Adjusting Propeller RPM (Kevin Horton)
3. 06:13 AM - Re: 6/6A getting in and out (Patrick Kelley)
4. 06:24 AM - Re: 6/6A getting in and out (Richard Seiders)
5. 06:56 AM - Re: 6/6A getting in and out (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
6. 07:11 AM - Re: 6/6A getting in and out (Sam Buchanan)
7. 07:24 AM - Re: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem (Tim Bryan)
8. 10:59 AM - Wicks has changed! (Rick Galati)
9. 11:42 AM - Re: Wicks has changed! (Terry Watson)
10. 12:01 PM - Re: Re: Plane Choice (John Jessen)
11. 12:04 PM - Re: RV7a v. Legacy FG v. Glassair SII FT (John Jessen)
12. 12:20 PM - weather (jimmy)
13. 12:47 PM - Re: weather (Ron Lee)
14. 12:53 PM - Re: weather (Dan Krueger)
15. 01:03 PM - Re: weather (John Jessen)
16. 01:34 PM - Re: weather (Dan Checkoway)
17. 01:48 PM - Airspeed Indicator Correction? (John Fasching)
18. 02:35 PM - Re: Airspeed Indicator Correction? (KUMC Testuser)
19. 02:43 PM - Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS (Gerry Filby)
20. 02:50 PM - Re: Airspeed Indicator Correction? (Kevin Horton)
21. 02:52 PM - Re: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem (Doug Gray)
22. 03:37 PM - Re: Re: 6/6A getting in and out (J2j3h4@aol.com)
23. 04:35 PM - Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS (J2j3h4@aol.com)
24. 04:35 PM - Re: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem (Tim Bryan)
25. 04:55 PM - Re: Re: 6/6A getting in and out (Stan Jones)
26. 05:01 PM - Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS (Gerry Filby)
27. 06:53 PM - Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS (Kevin Horton)
28. 07:25 PM - Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS (Olen Goodwin)
29. 08:04 PM - Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS (Gerry Filby)
30. 09:54 PM - RV-List :transition training (Steven DiNieri)
31. 10:32 PM - Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS (J2j3h4@aol.com)
32. 11:03 PM - Re: RV-List :transition training (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
First off, physically remove the sender and confirm oil is at least
getting to it. You could check the sender with air pressure at the same
time.
Do you have a flow restrictor in the oil sensor line - is it drilled
correctly?
Doug Gray
On Sun, 2006-09-24 at 23:22 -0400, Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 9/24/2006 8:08:26 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
> Question: How can I confirm if I even have oil pressure? Is
> it possible the engine oil system has an air bubble? How do I
> burp it?
>
> ==========================
>
> Disconnect the lead to the starter to ensure that you don't get
> confused and get hit with a spinning prop.
>
> Disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and lay them aside.
> Remove all of the spark plugs.
>
> Rotate the engine using the prop until you either get tired or you get
> a pressure indication.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 809hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting Propeller RPM |
On 25 Sep 2006, at 24:17, Ron Schreck wrote:
> I have a WhirlWind 200RV prop, which uses a McCauley hub and an old
> Hartzel F-series controller. The best RPM I get on takeoff is 2640
> and I don't know how to adjust the maximum RPM. The controller
> doesn't seem to have any adjustment except a stop-screw on the
> cable arm. This screw is all the way out, so no help there. Is
> there some adjustment available on the prop hub? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
Do you get 2700 rpm during climb or at higher speed? If so, the
lower rpm during takeoff is probably because the prop is at its low
pitch stop, which is set in the hub somehow.
If you can get 2700 rpm during climb and higher speeds, I would be
tempted to leave it alone. The performance improvement you would get
during takeoff from the extra 60 rpm is likely not important, and
making the low pitch stop finer will result in more windmilling drag
following engine failure - not good.
If you are limited to 2640 at all speeds, then it is a prop governor
(or tachometer) issue, and all the above does not apply.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 3
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| Subject: | 6/6A getting in and out |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
The forward bottom skin can take your weight. I usually try to keep my feet
on the stiffeners, but if I put a sub-floor in there I'll just have to guess
where they are. I have stood on the skin itself; the .040 skin secured at
the edges with rivets and with stiffeners installed does not buckle under
200#s. I would not be surprised to find that it can take two people at
once; Van engineers pretty well.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - plumbing wings (actually on hold for school)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: 6/6A getting in and out
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I'm building a 6A with tip-up canopy and have been in and out a lot
lately working on radio rack, and seat belts, etc. The canopy, panel
and flap housing are not installed. I had the seats and cushions in.
I'm trying to imagine how to get in and out gracefully without kicking
anything once the whole thing is put together. I will be installing the
vertical support from the fuel selector valve to the bottom center of
the panel which looks to be a nasty obstacle. It looks like it's going
to be pretty awkward. I can do deep knee bends easily, so I don't think
I'm lacking strength or flexibility.
I'm guessing I just haven't found the best way yet. Do you stand on the
seat and do a deep knee bend and then extricate your feet from under
you? Can you put much weight on the elect. flap housing? I am
assuming the floor forward of the main spar cannot support much weight.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A , instruments
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 6/6A getting in and out |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Try mounting your throttle/etc controls on a panel under instr. panel to
eliminate the vert leg and create much more wiggle space. I also added
floor protection in the form of rubber panels cut from Home Depot
interlocking floor pads. Cut to fit between the angle floor supports. Cheap
at $20 and not only cushion the floor skin but absorb vibration and easier
on your feet. Look good too!
At 01:37 AM 9/25/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I'm building a 6A with tip-up canopy and have been in and out a lot lately
>working on radio rack, and seat belts, etc. The canopy, panel and flap
>housing are not installed. I had the seats and cushions in.
>I'm trying to imagine how to get in and out gracefully without kicking
>anything once the whole thing is put together. I will be installing the
>vertical support from the fuel selector valve to the bottom center of the
>panel which looks to be a nasty obstacle. It looks like it's going to be
>pretty awkward. I can do deep knee bends easily, so I don't think I'm
>lacking strength or flexibility.
>
>I'm guessing I just haven't found the best way yet. Do you stand on the
>seat and do a deep knee bend and then extricate your feet from under
>you? Can you put much weight on the elect. flap housing? I am assuming
>the floor forward of the main spar cannot support much weight.
>
>--
>Tom Sargent
>RV-6A , instruments
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: 6/6A getting in and out |
Tom,
I find that just stepping in with the left foot on the landing gear
bracket,
left-hand on the top of the instrument panel, and right hand on the roll
bar
work great. Then it's just sliding down the seat to a sitting
position....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Building an RV-7A
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 < sarg314@comcast.net>
I'm building a 6A with tip-up canopy and have been in and out a
lot
lately working on radio rack, and seat belts, etc. The canopy,
panel
and flap housing are not installed. I had the seats and cushions
in.
I'm trying to imagine how to get in and out gracefully without
kicking
anything once the whole thing is put together. I will be
installing the
vertical support from the fuel selector valve to the bottom center
of
the panel which looks to be a nasty obstacle. It looks like it's
going
to be pretty awkward. I can do deep knee bends easily, so I don't
think
I'm lacking strength or flexibility.
I'm guessing I just haven't found the best way yet. Do you stand
on the
seat and do a deep knee bend and then extricate your feet from
under
you? Can you put much weight on the elect. flap housing? I am
assuming the floor forward of the main spar cannot support much
weight.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A , instruments
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 6/6A getting in and out |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
sarg314 wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I'm building a 6A with tip-up canopy and have been in and out a lot
> lately working on radio rack, and seat belts, etc. The canopy, panel
> and flap housing are not installed. I had the seats and cushions in.
> I'm trying to imagine how to get in and out gracefully without kicking
> anything once the whole thing is put together. I will be installing the
> vertical support from the fuel selector valve to the bottom center of
> the panel which looks to be a nasty obstacle. It looks like it's going
> to be pretty awkward. I can do deep knee bends easily, so I don't think
> I'm lacking strength or flexibility.
>
> I'm guessing I just haven't found the best way yet. Do you stand on the
> seat and do a deep knee bend and then extricate your feet from under
> you? Can you put much weight on the elect. flap housing? I am
> assuming the floor forward of the main spar cannot support much weight.
Getting in and out of any RV requires flexibility that most of us
possess. Occasionally an elderly passenger will have difficulty but if
the passenger can get onto the wing, they can be coached into the cabin.
The tip-up is a little more difficult since the passenger can't grab the
canopy or panel.
Like you I have the control console in my RV6 and it in no way hinders
getting into the plane. The only time the console is a problem is when
you crawl headfirst under the panel, it is difficult to get both arms
past the console at the same time. But I still find the location of the
controls to be convenient and I think you will enjoy the console.
Yep, technique is required for smooth entries and exits. I stand on the
wingwalk, then place my right foot in the seat just to the right of the
stick. The right hand is on the rollbar as I slide over to the seat and
"sit" on the top of the seatback. The left foot is brought into the
cabin and then it is just a graceful little slide down the seatback and
into flight position. It happens quicker than you can read this. :-)
Getting out requires a little more effort. Left hand on the fuse side
rail, right hand on top of the right seat back, push up with your feet
while sliding up the seatback until the right foot is in the seat, then
swing left foot out onto the wing. The floor will support your weight
and the flap housing is plenty strong. Matter of fact, you can grab
about anything but the panel or canopy.
You can do it..........hundreds of RV pilots have gone before you! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 780 hrs)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Well this creates a good question. The line from the engine to the sender
is about 24" long and is a dead end. If air is trapped in the line are you
suggesting it would not read a pressure? I would think the air would
pressurize the sender as well. I could bleed it if you think it would
matter. Assuming the engine is making pressure.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gray
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 2:17 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
> First off, physically remove the sender and confirm oil is at least
> getting to it. You could check the sender with air pressure at the same
> time.
>
> Do you have a flow restrictor in the oil sensor line - is it drilled
> correctly?
>
> Doug Gray
>
>
> On Sun, 2006-09-24 at 23:22 -0400, Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 9/24/2006 8:08:26 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
> > Question: How can I confirm if I even have oil pressure? Is
> > it possible the engine oil system has an air bubble? How do I
> > burp it?
> >
> > ==========================
> >
> > Disconnect the lead to the starter to ensure that you don't get
> > confused and get hit with a spinning prop.
> >
> > Disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and lay them aside.
> > Remove all of the spark plugs.
> >
> > Rotate the engine using the prop until you either get tired or you get
> > a pressure indication.
> >
> > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 809hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Wicks has changed! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Check out the new and improved Wick's. They have expanded into the Northwest with
a new pilot shop in Arlington, Washington and will even post your "For Sale"
aircraft on their website for free.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/Wicks/Pages/LIST_YOUR_AIRCRAFT_FORSALE.php
A new catalog offering will surely appeal to the RV'er.....tandem or side-by-side,
even -A or -A less. :D
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid 84/index.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63762#63762
Message 9
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| Subject: | Wicks has changed! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I was at first pleased to see that Wick's was opening a store here in
Washington state, maybe half an hour away on a good traffic day. But the
store stocks very little -- almost everything is ordered just like the
catalog, but now I get to pay nearly 9% state sales tax on it, plus
shipping.
Not a very big improvement, in my mind.
Do not archive
Terry
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 10:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wicks has changed!
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Check out the new and improved Wick's. They have expanded into the
Northwest with a new pilot shop in Arlington, Washington and will even post
your "For Sale" aircraft on their website for free.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/Wicks/Pages/LIST_YOUR_AIRCRAFT_FORSALE.php
A new catalog offering will surely appeal to the RV'er.....tandem or
side-by-side, even -A or -A less. :D
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid 84/index.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63762#63762
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Plane Choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Well, I think the question should be one sent to this list, but sent also to
all the other lists. Why not get totally confused!
Before making the decision to go the RV-7, then the RV-10, I test flew
everything I could. I flew the Lancair IV and ES. I flew the Velocity, the
Glasair SII, the Glastar and Sportsman. I flew the RV-7, RV-9 and finally
the RV-10. I even flew the SeaRay (sp).
I eventually went the RV route because of all the targets that they hit with
the design, and because of the enormous wealth of experience in the builder
community. The latter is matched by Lancair, but not by any of the others,
IMHO.
In the end, I also got put off by the high cost of the glass planes. I
could afford one, but why? I am not one to build for looks or for speed
alone. I wanted utility and reasonable speed. The RV gives one that, as
well as ease in building, especially now that they have come up the ages and
have reasonable plans. The continued use of baggies or paper bags is odd,
but whatever. The plans do what they say they are supposed to, are easy
(relative to each one's ability) to build and fly.
But.... you've got to decide what is your over riding decision factor.
Looks? Speed? Building ease? Insurance? Flying capabilities? Building
climate?
If you do it like I did, then list all the reasons you'd go out and buy a
plane, any plane. These are your typical mission and cost of ownership
specifications. Then list all the build issues. Tools needed, temperature
during the winter, allergies, sound levels, previous experience, builder
community, factory experience, support, cleanliness, parts availability, on
and on. Then list all the intangibles. Looks, ramp appeal, fighter pilot
feel. Put all these into a spreadsheet. Now, before you fly, rate each one
on a 3-point scale. 1 = not important to 5 = very important. No 0's
allowed. Everything must have an importance score. Then go fly and
interview the heck out of the folks at each manufacturer.
Come back and rank your experiences on each of the items after flying and
your interviews. For me the Lancair IV got a 5 for fun flying, and the RV-7
got a 4. The RV-10 got a middle of the road 3, whereas the C-182 that I was
flying at the time got a 2. The Lancair got a 2 for ingress and egress,
whereas the C-182 got a 4. The RV-10 got another 3, as did the RV-7, but
the Glasair got a 1. And so on.
These scores get multiplied by their importance factor. Then all the ranked
scores for each plane get added and an average taken. It's surprising how
it all turns out. Usually it's about what you were leaning for, but
sometimes.....
Those are the times you got to go open a cold one and picture yourself
opening the hanger and looking at you baby. What do you see there? Write
the name down on a piece of paper and go call to place your order.
John Jessen
RV-10 tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Plane Choice
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
You are asking this question to a group that is biased.
Per David's suggestion as one of the glass planes lists. Here is one you
might try <http://legacyfg.jconserv.net/index.php>. Let us know what they
say and what you decide.
Larry Rosen
RV-10
N205EN (reserved)
David Leonard wrote:
> I am sure we all went through a similar selection process. Here is mine:
>
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
>
> But I think you are asking the wrong people why to choose the glass
> planes. I bet if you went on their lists and ask them they will all
> be on the other side of the fence. Most of their arguments would
> center around speed and looks. Those are very valid if they matter
> more to you than other factors. Take your time and be sure about it...
>
> --
> David Leonard
>
> Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> My websites at:
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
> http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
>
>
> On 9/23/06, *Derek Bohn* <ctnyfl@yahoo.com <mailto:ctnyfl@yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Derek Bohn <ctnyfl@yahoo.com
> <mailto:ctnyfl@yahoo.com>>
>
> I am trying to choose between these three aircraft. It
> is my first time building, and am leaning towards the
> fast build versions. In looking at the specifications
> on the company websites it seems the
> RV is considerably less expensive, yet they all have
> similar cabin size, baggage capacity and airspeed. The
> Legacy and Glassiar do have more range due to higher
> fuel capacity, however I really wouldn't want to go
> more than 4 hours without stopping anyway.
>
> So my question basically is, why does anyone choose
> the Lancair or Glassair? The Legacy's ROC and
> TO/Landing numbers are far worse. The Glassair has
> very nice performance, especially considering the
> lower hosepower, but not for a 65% premium over the
> RV.
>
> Am I missing anything? Building time and complexity
> is a factor also, but I haven't found any reliable
> information about these.
> Financial stability and customer service factors seem
> to favor Vans, though , again, that is difficult to
> assess.
>
> Thanks
> Derek
> (no flames intended)
>
>
> >From the company websites:
>
> RV7a Legacy FG Glassair SII FT
>
> Fast Build Cost
> $25,705 $38,500 $42,544
> (no slow build avail.)
>
>
> V Cruise @ 8000ft.
> 205mph 220mph 210mph
> (200hp, cs prop) (210mph, cs prop) (180mph,?cs prop
>
>
> Payload(full fuel)
> 448lb 360lb 596lb
>
>
> Range @ 8000ft.
> 755sm 1450sm 1009sm
>
>
> Solo ROC
> 2450fpm 1700fpm 2700fpm
>
>
> Solo TO/Landing Roll
> 250/350ft 1500/900ft not lsited
>
>
> Baggage Capacity
> 100lb/12 cu. ft. 90lb/ ? cu. ft. 100lb./12 cu.
> ft.
>
>
> Cabin Width"/ Height"
> 43/ 42 43/44.5 42/ ? height
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV7a v. Legacy FG v. Glassair SII FT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Correct and good advice. I absolutely loved the flight I had in the Glasair
Super II, but hated the seating and cramped feeling. I could not talk
myself past that. Some feel the same way about the Legacy and the RV-7 and
RV-9. However, one ride in the RV-10 and I found my comfort zone. Also
found the same comfort in the Sportsman, but that plane's mission is not
quite what I want. Soon, but not just yet. Comfort, 4-seats, good speed,
handles most airports with ease, etc etc.
John Jessen
RV-10 tailcone
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Morrow
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7a v. Legacy FG v. Glassair SII FT
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01@butter.toast.net>
Before you make your final decision, be sure you get a chance to sit in the
cockpit of your intended! If your body deviates very far from the standard
FAA adult male, you may find that you're not happy in many of the homebuilts
available today. It sounds trivial but comfort is important. Even better
get a ride in one.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Derek Bohn" <ctnyfl@yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 3:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV7a v. Legacy FG v. Glassair SII FT
> --> RV-List message posted by: Derek Bohn <ctnyfl@yahoo.com>
>
> I am trying to choose between these three aircraft. It is my first
> time building, and am leaning towards the fast build versions. In
> looking at the specifications
-- snip --
> Am I missing anything? Building time and complexity is a factor also,
> but I haven't found any reliable information about these.
> Financial stability and customer service factors seem to favor Vans,
> though , again, that is difficult to assess.
>
-- snip --
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 12
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Due to computer crash, I have lost the excellent enroute weather webb
address developed by the RV person.
Could someone pleas share it with me?
Thanks.
Jimmy
RV8A
Message 13
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At 01:20 PM 9/25/2006, you wrote:
>Due to computer crash, I have lost the excellent enroute weather webb
>address developed by the RV person.
>Could someone pleas share it with me?
Is this it?
http://www.weathermeister.com/free/
Ron Lee
Message 14
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www.rvproject.com/wx
Dan
RV6A
On Sep 25, 2006, at 2:20 PM, jimmy wrote:
> Due to computer crash, I have lost the excellent enroute weather webb
> address developed by the RV person.
> Could someone pleas share it with me?
Message 15
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Not sure if you mean Dan Checkoway's tool.
http://www.weathermeister.com/free/
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jimmy
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 12:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: weather
Due to computer crash, I have lost the excellent enroute weather webb
address developed by the RV person.
Could someone pleas share it with me?
Thanks.
Jimmy
RV8A
Message 16
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Actually the URL changed: http://www.weathermeister.com
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D "Priorities"
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Krueger
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: weather
www.rvproject.com/wx
Dan
RV6A
On Sep 25, 2006, at 2:20 PM, jimmy wrote:
Due to computer crash, I have lost the excellent enroute weather
webb address developed by the RV person.
Could someone pleas share it with me?
--> http://forums.matronics.com
http://wiki.matronics.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Airspeed Indicator Correction? |
I have a true airspeed indicator...you set your altitude opposite the
temperature and the rotatable portion moves to correct for non-standard
conditions.
A manometer shows that the stationary part of the indicator is accutate
- that's up to 140mph. The moveable section, over 140mph, always seems
a bit high when "properly" set.
Rough and ready comparisions with GPS confirms an error.
Before I tear up the instrument panel, I need to ask: Is there some
screw slot or some-such that allows a mechanical correction to be
applied, or do you have to live with these things?
Message 18
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| Subject: | Airspeed Indicator Correction? |
That moveable portion is just circular slide rule. Unless the mask they used
to print it was off it will be correct. Just like your E6B, there is no
adjustment. Parallax can induce apparent errors as well. Run the same IAS
and temp thru your E6B - should be the same.
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Fasching
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 3:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Airspeed Indicator Correction?
I have a true airspeed indicator...you set your altitude opposite the
temperature and the rotatable portion moves to correct for non-standard
conditions.
A manometer shows that the stationary part of the indicator is accutate -
that's up to 140mph. The moveable section, over 140mph, always seems a bit
high when "properly" set.
Rough and ready comparisions with GPS confirms an error.
Before I tear up the instrument panel, I need to ask: Is there some screw
slot or some-such that allows a mechanical correction to be applied, or do
you have to live with these things?
Message 19
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| Subject: | Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
At one point this weekend the barometer at the field where I'm
building was exactly 29.92 - the Dyon EFIS read 62 feet, the
official field elevation is 66 feet. I also installed one of
Van's "steam gauge" Altimeters - supposedly a fallback
instrument if my wiring/plumbing goes belly up on the first
flight. The steam gauge reads minus 20 feet :-\
I know which gauge will be junked out of my panel at the first
opportunity ...
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Indicator Correction? |
On 25 Sep 2006, at 16:48, John Fasching wrote:
> I have a true airspeed indicator...you set your altitude opposite
> the temperature and the rotatable portion moves to correct for non-
> standard conditions.
>
> A manometer shows that the stationary part of the indicator is
> accutate - that's up to 140mph. The moveable section, over 140mph,
> always seems a bit high when "properly" set.
>
> Rough and ready comparisions with GPS confirms an error.
>
> Before I tear up the instrument panel, I need to ask: Is there some
> screw slot or some-such that allows a mechanical correction to be
> applied, or do you have to live with these things?
>
I don't think there is any provision for a correction at the ASI.
You say that a manometer shows the stationary scale is accurate to
140 mph. Did you test it with the manometer above 140 mph?
There are several possible sources of your error:
1. ASI instrument error - check the ASI against a good pressure
source over the full range of speeds.
2. Pitot or static system leaks.
3. Errors in the OAT source you are using to set the moveable scale
on the ASI. Some people put their OAT sensor in locations where they
are known to read high (e.g. in a NACA duct on the forward fuselage).
4. Temperature scale on the ASI not accurate (i.e. it provides an
inaccurate correction from IAS to TAS). To check this, note the IAS,
altitude, temperature and TAS the next time you are trying this
feature out. Do a manual conversion from IAS to TAS after you get
back on the ground to see if you come up with the same TAS as your
ASI did.
5. Inaccurate method to calculate TAS from GPS data. Many people
seem to think that if you average the GPS ground speeds from several
different headings that the result will be TAS. This is only true if
the wind is zero. If there is any wind, the average of several GPS
ground speeds will be greater than the TAS.
6. Static system position error. Every static system has some
error. Some people have found that the nice looking flush static
ports have larger errors than the pop rivet static port that Van
calls for. The flush static ports result in a sensed static pressure
that is too high, and thus the ASI reads too low.
I've got a bunch of links on pitot-static systems on my web site that
address many of the above areas:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/phplinks/index.php?&PID=48
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/phplinks/index.php?&PID=49
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
Message 21
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| Subject: | Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
I'm not suggesting trapped air is the problem. As you rightly point out
it is not an issue.
I am suggesting that in the first instance you check that oil or should
I say oil pressure IS getting to the transducer.
Is the line blocked (perhaps by an undrilled flow restrictor), connected
to the wrong engine port etc? I would expect that if you remove the
sender itself oil should flow freely from the line when the prop is
turned through.
Simple test, something I would try.
Doug Gray
On Mon, 2006-09-25 at 07:22 -0700, Tim Bryan wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
>
> Well this creates a good question. The line from the engine to the sender
> is about 24" long and is a dead end. If air is trapped in the line are you
> suggesting it would not read a pressure? I would think the air would
> pressurize the sender as well. I could bleed it if you think it would
> matter. Assuming the engine is making pressure.
>
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gray
> > Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 2:17 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> >
> > First off, physically remove the sender and confirm oil is at least
> > getting to it. You could check the sender with air pressure at the same
> > time.
> >
> > Do you have a flow restrictor in the oil sensor line - is it drilled
> > correctly?
> >
> > Doug Gray
> >
> >
> > On Sun, 2006-09-24 at 23:22 -0400, Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> > > In a message dated 9/24/2006 8:08:26 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
> > > Question: How can I confirm if I even have oil pressure? Is
> > > it possible the engine oil system has an air bubble? How do I
> > > burp it?
> > >
> > > ==========================
> > >
> > > Disconnect the lead to the starter to ensure that you don't get
> > > confused and get hit with a spinning prop.
> > >
> > > Disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and lay them aside.
> > > Remove all of the spark plugs.
> > >
> > > Rotate the engine using the prop until you either get tired or you get
> > > a pressure indication.
> > >
> > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 809hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 6/6A getting in and out |
Sounds good. I'll remember this the next time I get into an RV. Now, can
anyone tell me how to easily get into and out of the front seat of the Aeronca
Champ I am taking tailwheel lessons in? I'm 6 ft tall, weigh 225 lb, and am
71 years old.
Jim Hasper
do not archive
In a message dated 9/25/2006 8:58:57 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
Fred.Stucklen@UTCPower.com writes:
Tom,
I find that just stepping in with the left foot on the landing gear
bracket,
left-hand on the top of the instrument panel, and right hand on the roll bar
work great. Then it's just sliding down the seat to a sitting position....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Building an RV-7A
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS |
If you are just taking the reading from a physical barometer and setting
that in the window of your steam gauge, you will almost certainly not get the
correct altitude. That reading must be corrected for temperature and humidity.
The reading you get from AWOS or other FAA weather source has this
correction made. For an explanation see
_http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html_ (http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html)
Jim Hasper
In a message dated 9/25/2006 4:45:42 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
gerf@gerf.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
At one point this weekend the barometer at the field where I'm
building was exactly 29.92 - the Dyon EFIS read 62 feet, the
official field elevation is 66 feet. I also installed one of
Van's "steam gauge" Altimeters - supposedly a fallback
instrument if my wiring/plumbing goes belly up on the first
flight. The steam gauge reads minus 20 feet :-\
I know which gauge will be junked out of my panel at the first
opportunity ...
__g__
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Thanks Doug,
Today I disconnected the transducer and screwed on a mechanical gauge. I do
have engine oil pressure, so back to figuring out the gauge/ transducer
issue.
Thanks again
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gray
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 2:52 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
> I'm not suggesting trapped air is the problem. As you rightly point out
> it is not an issue.
>
> I am suggesting that in the first instance you check that oil or should
> I say oil pressure IS getting to the transducer.
>
> Is the line blocked (perhaps by an undrilled flow restrictor), connected
> to the wrong engine port etc? I would expect that if you remove the
> sender itself oil should flow freely from the line when the prop is
> turned through.
>
> Simple test, something I would try.
>
> Doug Gray
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, 2006-09-25 at 07:22 -0700, Tim Bryan wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> >
> > Well this creates a good question. The line from the engine to the
> sender
> > is about 24" long and is a dead end. If air is trapped in the line are
> you
> > suggesting it would not read a pressure? I would think the air would
> > pressurize the sender as well. I could bleed it if you think it would
> > matter. Assuming the engine is making pressure.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gray
> > > Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 2:17 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision Microsystems NOT - oil pressure problem
> > >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> > >
> > > First off, physically remove the sender and confirm oil is at least
> > > getting to it. You could check the sender with air pressure at the
> same
> > > time.
> > >
> > > Do you have a flow restrictor in the oil sensor line - is it drilled
> > > correctly?
> > >
> > > Doug Gray
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sun, 2006-09-24 at 23:22 -0400, Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> > > > In a message dated 9/24/2006 8:08:26 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > > n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
> > > > Question: How can I confirm if I even have oil pressure?
> Is
> > > > it possible the engine oil system has an air bubble? How do
> I
> > > > burp it?
> > > >
> > > > ==========================
> > > >
> > > > Disconnect the lead to the starter to ensure that you don't get
> > > > confused and get hit with a spinning prop.
> > > >
> > > > Disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and lay them
> aside.
> > > > Remove all of the spark plugs.
> > > >
> > > > Rotate the engine using the prop until you either get tired or you
> get
> > > > a pressure indication.
> > > >
> > > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 809hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 6/6A getting in and out |
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Hmm, so you're suggesting that the Dynon is making those
corrections ? It does have an OAT temperature sensor, but
obviously not a humidity sensor.
The two instruments have consistently differed by about 80 feet
..
g
>
> If you are just taking the reading from a physical barometer
> and setting
> that in the window of your steam gauge, you will almost
> certainly not get the
> correct altitude. That reading must be corrected for
> temperature and humidity.
> The reading you get from AWOS or other FAA weather source has this
> correction made. For an explanation see
> _http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html_
> (http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html)
>
> Jim Hasper
>
>
>
> In a message dated 9/25/2006 4:45:42 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> gerf@gerf.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
> At one point this weekend the barometer at the field where I'm
> building was exactly 29.92 - the Dyon EFIS read 62 feet, the
> official field elevation is 66 feet. I also installed one of
> Van's "steam gauge" Altimeters - supposedly a fallback
> instrument if my wiring/plumbing goes belly up on the first
> flight. The steam gauge reads minus 20 feet :-\
>
> I know which gauge will be junked out of my panel at the first
> opportunity ...
>
> __g__
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
All he is saying is that there is a difference between barometric
pressure and altimeter setting. The original poster used the term
barometer. If he read a barometer, and it was at 29.92, then the
altimeter setting would almost certainly have been something other
than 29.92. For example, if the pressure was as per the standard
atmosphere, the altimeter setting would be 29.92. The barometric
pressure at sea level would be 29.92 in HG. The barometric pressure
at 66 ft would be 29.85 in HG. So, if the barometric pressure at 66
ft was actually 29.92, that implies the pressure was higher than
standard, and the altimeter setting would be greater than 29.92.
Note: the weather folks also publish barometric pressures which are
the station pressure, corrected to sea level. But even these values
are not the same as an altimeter setting. The difference between the
station pressure corrected to sea level and the altimeter setting
will depend on the air density, which also depends on the temperature
and humidity, as mentioned earlier.
I'm hoping the original poster actually used an altimeter setting,
and that it came from a credible source (e.g. a control tower). If
it came from a less credible source, then the altimeter setting may
have been in error.
Kevin Horton
On 25 Sep 2006, at 20:00, Gerry Filby wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
> Hmm, so you're suggesting that the Dynon is making those
> corrections ? It does have an OAT temperature sensor, but
> obviously not a humidity sensor.
>
> The two instruments have consistently differed by about 80 feet
> ..
>
> g
>
>>
>> If you are just taking the reading from a physical barometer
>> and setting
>> that in the window of your steam gauge, you will almost
>> certainly not get the
>> correct altitude. That reading must be corrected for
>> temperature and humidity.
>> The reading you get from AWOS or other FAA weather source has this
>> correction made. For an explanation see
>> _http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html_
>> (http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html)
>>
>> Jim Hasper
>>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 9/25/2006 4:45:42 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
>> gerf@gerf.com writes:
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>>
>>
>> At one point this weekend the barometer at the field where I'm
>> building was exactly 29.92 - the Dyon EFIS read 62 feet, the
>> official field elevation is 66 feet. I also installed one of
>> Van's "steam gauge" Altimeters - supposedly a fallback
>> instrument if my wiring/plumbing goes belly up on the first
>> flight. The steam gauge reads minus 20 feet :-\
>>
>> I know which gauge will be junked out of my panel at the first
>> opportunity ...
>>
>> __g__
>>
>>
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin@comcast.net>
You have to remember that there is a tolerance for altimeters...even in jet
transports with two or more altimeters, there will be a difference. With
the new glass cockpits and computerized instruments that may not be as true
as with the old baro altimeters.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 3:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
> At one point this weekend the barometer at the field where I'm
> building was exactly 29.92 - the Dyon EFIS read 62 feet, the
> official field elevation is 66 feet. I also installed one of
> Van's "steam gauge" Altimeters - supposedly a fallback
> instrument if my wiring/plumbing goes belly up on the first
> flight. The steam gauge reads minus 20 feet :-\
>
> I know which gauge will be junked out of my panel at the first
> opportunity ...
>
> __g__
>
> =========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
The original poster was I :-)
The pressure - 29.92 - was read off a digital weather station
located on the field at 66 feet ASL (my personal one, nothing
to do with the airfield). I was reasoning that since I was
more-or-less at sea level (66 feet ASL) and the barometer was
reading 29.92, this must be a "standard pressure" day ...
therefore the altimeters should be reading the actual altitude
of the field - 66 feet. The Dynon EFIS read 62 feet and the
steam gauge read minus 20 - thus the steam gauge is almost 90
feet out. I think ... ~(:-|)
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> All he is saying is that there is a difference between barometric
> pressure and altimeter setting. The original poster used the term
> barometer. If he read a barometer, and it was at 29.92, then the
> altimeter setting would almost certainly have been something other
> than 29.92. For example, if the pressure was as per the standard
> atmosphere, the altimeter setting would be 29.92. The barometric
> pressure at sea level would be 29.92 in HG. The barometric pressure
> at 66 ft would be 29.85 in HG. So, if the barometric pressure at 66
> ft was actually 29.92, that implies the pressure was higher than
> standard, and the altimeter setting would be greater than 29.92.
>
> Note: the weather folks also publish barometric pressures which are
> the station pressure, corrected to sea level. But even these values
> are not the same as an altimeter setting. The difference between the
> station pressure corrected to sea level and the altimeter setting
> will depend on the air density, which also depends on the temperature
> and humidity, as mentioned earlier.
>
> I'm hoping the original poster actually used an altimeter setting,
> and that it came from a credible source (e.g. a control tower). If
> it came from a less credible source, then the altimeter setting may
> have been in error.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> On 25 Sep 2006, at 20:00, Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >
> >
> > Hmm, so you're suggesting that the Dynon is making those
> > corrections ? It does have an OAT temperature sensor, but
> > obviously not a humidity sensor.
> >
> > The two instruments have consistently differed by about 80 feet
> > ..
> >
> > g
> >
> >>
> >> If you are just taking the reading from a physical barometer
> >> and setting
> >> that in the window of your steam gauge, you will almost
> >> certainly not get the
> >> correct altitude. That reading must be corrected for
> >> temperature and humidity.
> >> The reading you get from AWOS or other FAA weather source has this
> >> correction made. For an explanation see
> >> _http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html_
> >> (http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html)
> >>
> >> Jim Hasper
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> In a message dated 9/25/2006 4:45:42 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> >> gerf@gerf.com writes:
> >>
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >>
> >>
> >> At one point this weekend the barometer at the field where I'm
> >> building was exactly 29.92 - the Dyon EFIS read 62 feet, the
> >> official field elevation is 66 feet. I also installed one of
> >> Van's "steam gauge" Altimeters - supposedly a fallback
> >> instrument if my wiring/plumbing goes belly up on the first
> >> flight. The steam gauge reads minus 20 feet :-\
> >>
> >> I know which gauge will be junked out of my panel at the first
> >> opportunity ...
> >>
> >> __g__
> >>
> >>
>
> Kevin Horton
> Ottawa, Canada
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
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| Subject: | RV-List :transition training |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
I'm trying to find a pilot/plane capable of giving transition
training (rv-6a) in the northeast. New York, Albany area ..
I've a friend who needs a signoff before he can be covered by his
insurance co. I've checked vans and reeves website and the ones that are
listed all reside south of the mason - Dixon line.....
Can a regular cfi give a signoff in a customers own aircraft????
Thx
Steve
40205
--
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Van's steam gauges versus Dynon EFIS |
I believe the Dynon is determining altitude by GPS.
The following is a quote from the Dynon Forum: GPS altitudes will not
necessarily compare to barometric altitudes. They will only be the same if the
atmosphere is at standard temperature all the way from the ground to the test
altitude, which is never the case.
While it is quite possible that your mechanical altimeter DOES have an
error, you won't know that until you set it using a corrected barometer reading
from an FAA weather report. Even if you were AT sea level, you still wouldn't
have a standard reading unless the temperature and humidity were also at
standard conditions.
Jim Hasper
In a message dated 9/25/2006 7:03:03 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
gerf@gerf.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Hmm, so you're suggesting that the Dynon is making those
corrections ? It does have an OAT temperature sensor, but
obviously not a humidity sensor.
The two instruments have consistently differed by about 80 feet
..
g
>
> If you are just taking the reading from a physical barometer
> and setting
> that in the window of your steam gauge, you will almost
> certainly not get the
> correct altitude. That reading must be corrected for
> temperature and humidity.
> The reading you get from AWOS or other FAA weather source has this
> correction made. For an explanation see
> _http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html_
> (http://www.exploratorium.edu/weather/barometer.html)
>
> Jim Hasper
>
>
>
> In a message dated 9/25/2006 4:45:42 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> gerf@gerf.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
> At one point this weekend the barometer at the field where I'm
> building was exactly 29.92 - the Dyon EFIS read 62 feet, the
> official field elevation is 66 feet. I also installed one of
> Van's "steam gauge" Altimeters - supposedly a fallback
> instrument if my wiring/plumbing goes belly up on the first
> flight. The steam gauge reads minus 20 feet :-\
>
> I know which gauge will be junked out of my panel at the first
> opportunity ...
>
> __g__
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List :transition training |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
Steven DiNieri wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
> I'm trying to find a pilot/plane capable of giving transition
>training (rv-6a) in the northeast. New York, Albany area ..
> I've a friend who needs a signoff before he can be covered by his
>insurance co. I've checked vans and reeves website and the ones that are
>listed all reside south of the mason - Dixon line.....
>
> Can a regular cfi give a signoff in a customers own aircraft????
>
>Thx
>Steve
>40205
>
>
>
>
yes but you need to make sure he is familiar with RV's first
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