Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:14 AM - Re: KLX-135A Wiring Diagram (Matthew Brandes)
2. 06:42 AM - Re: Applying cowl heat shield material (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 06:47 AM - Re: Applying cowl heat shield material (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 09:43 AM - Re: Re: Senator Ground Loops RV-8 (Jeff Point)
5. 02:38 PM - Drill bits (Craig)
6. 05:29 PM - Re: Drill bits (Bob J.)
7. 07:14 PM - Re: Drill bits (Charlie Kuss)
8. 08:51 PM - Re: Drill bits (David Burton)
9. 11:42 PM - Internal rivets on the leading edge-to-spar (Randy Tonkin)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: KLX-135A Wiring Diagram |
Bob Nuckolls has a lot of pinout guides on his website at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data. The KLX-135 included.
Matthew
RV-9A :: N523RV
www.n523rv.com
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Applying cowl heat shield material |
In a message dated 10/7/2006 5:49:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
shirleyh@oceanbroadband.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "shirleyh" <shirleyh@oceanbroadband.net>
Listers - during the test period on my RV6 I noticed scorch marks on the
lower cowl. I've ordered the cowl heat shield material from Vans. Are there any
tips from those who have already done it regarding the best way to apply it?
I'm thinking about surface preparation of the cowl to ensure good adhesion
and techniques for smooth application.
All advice gratefully accepted.
Shirley in Perth, Western Australia
Shirley,
Just clean the cowl good. I used MEK but anything that will cut oil would
probably be OK. Put it on in several pieces starting at the bottom like you
would if you were roofing so it will shed all the oil that leaks out of your
engine (grin). Where the compound curves are you need smaller or narrower
pieces so that it won't try to bunch up too much. Don't try to make it look
perfect! Just cover anything that is near the exhaust. It is really easier to
do than to talk about.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Applying cowl heat shield material |
In a message dated 10/7/2006 5:49:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
shirleyh@oceanbroadband.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "shirleyh" <shirleyh@oceanbroadband.net>
Listers - during the test period on my RV6 I noticed scorch marks on the
lower cowl. I've ordered the cowl heat shield material from Vans. Are there any
tips from those who have already done it regarding the best way to apply it?
I'm thinking about surface preparation of the cowl to ensure good adhesion
and techniques for smooth application.
All advice gratefully accepted.
Shirley in Perth, Western Australia
I forgot to mention to coat the inside of the cowl with epoxy thinned with
acetone like Vans manual says to. Brush it in good to fill the pinholes --
mainly for the areas that won't get the heat shield.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Senator Ground Loops RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Not true at all. This is a common way of getting around the regs, not
operating within them. This certainly violates the spirit, and probablt
the letter, of the regs. If I contract with you to build an airplane
and license it in your name, then sell it to me, you are not building
said plane for your own education and recreation. You are doing it as a
for profit enterprise. You are manufacturing airplanes for sale,
without complying with the regulations governing such operations.
Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 preview plans
Milwaukee
Paul Besing wrote:
>
> Perfectly within the regs at that point.
>
>*
>*
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I just ran through about a half dozen drill bits drilling the cotter pin holes
in one wheel axle of my RV8A. That is some tough steel! Does anyone have a suggestion
on what kind of drill bits to use here? There has got to be something
tougher than the "titanium" bits I got at Lowes.
Thanks,
Craig Gallenbach
RV8A ...... trying to get it on the gear
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Craig, you're going thru bits because you are work hardening the steel.
Turn the bit slow and put pressure on the drill. Under no circumstance do
you want the drill to spin without a spiral chip coming out of the hole.
Using an air drill is a no-no to drill through any kind of steel unless you
have a teasing trigger and good torque at low speed. Also use some cutting
oil like TapMagic, or a light aerosol oil like 3in1 if you don't have access
to good cutting oil. You should be able to drill hundreds of holes in steel
with one drill bit.
For drilling the cotter pin holes in the axles I recommend you use a long
drill bit and a cordless drill.
FWIW the drill bits you can get at the home improvement places are generally
inferior to HSS drill bits you can pick up at your local machine shop supply
house. Almost always the USA-made bits are superior in quality.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 10/8/06, Craig <craigtxtx@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I just ran through about a half dozen drill bits drilling the cotter pin
> holes in one wheel axle of my RV8A. That is some tough steel! Does anyone
> have a suggestion on what kind of drill bits to use here? There has got to
> be something tougher than the "titanium" bits I got at Lowes.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig Gallenbach
> RV8A ...... trying to get it on the gear
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Craig,
Buy Cobalt drill bits. Make sure they are Made In America. You can
find these at machinist supply stores like MSC or McMaster-Carr. Your
local Snap On, Mac and Matco Tool salesman also stocks them. These
bits will drill through a grade 8 bolt.
Charlie Kuss
>I just ran through about a half dozen drill bits drilling the cotter
>pin holes in one wheel axle of my RV8A. That is some tough
>steel! Does anyone have a suggestion on what kind of drill bits to
>use here? There has got to be something tougher than the "titanium"
>bits I got at Lowes.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Craig Gallenbach
>RV8A ...... trying to get it on the gear
>
>
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I just ran through about a half dozen drill bits drilling the cotter pin
holes in one wheel axle of my RV8A. That is some tough steel! Does anyone
have a suggestion on what kind of drill bits to use here? There has got to
be something tougher than the "titanium" bits I got at Lowes.
Thanks,
Craig Gallenbach
RV8A ...... trying to get it on the gear
Well, Lowes is not the place to buy drill bits.
High speed steel from a source like the ones Charley suggested will be OK.
Avery or Cleveland also sells good drill bits
I'd also suggest learning how to sharpen a drill bit. It only takes a few
seconds. I'm working out of the same drill bit set I purchased in the late
60s. I admit that I purchase bags of #30 etc because they are cheap and I
want them sharp and true. The smaller the drill bit the more fussy they can
be to sharpen.
It's important to use the correct cutting fluid to drill aluminum or steel.
Obviously we don't use cutting fluid when drilling skins. Thicker parts
require cutting fluid to keep from damaging your bit. The pressure and
temperature the cutting edge of your bit experiences is great. Cutting
fluid and not just any oil you have handy will make a huge difference.
Good luck,
Dave
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Internal rivets on the leading edge-to-spar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Tonkin <rctonkin@comcast.net>
I have a question that came up recently, perhaps some of you can
remember back to the wing construction phase and help me:
When attaching the leading edge assembly to the spar, outboard of the
fuel tank, you are suppose to rivet the forward rib flange to the spar
using an offset rivet set. I did this with the gun on the spar side and
the bucking bar held by another person reaching way inside through the
leading edge lightening holes. The results are not very pretty as the
manufactured head is against the thick spar material and the shop head
forms on the thinner rib flange side. With the spar absorbing the blows
from the gun, it takes much longer for the shop head to form, and does
not hold the rib flange snugly against the spar during the process.
Also, the manufactured head inevitably develops a significant smile
distortion because the position of the set is affected by the proximity
of the central wing ribs. I was not happy, but found drilling out these
particular rivets very messy, making the results go from bad to worse.
After doing the work, I have begun to think I was suppose to set the
rivets in the other direction (manufactured head forward), requiring
the gun to be located deep inside the leading edge, through the
lightening holes. This appears difficult but maybe not impossible,
however, nothing I have read specifies to do this.
If anyone has recently been down this road, how did you drive these
rivets, and did you have any troubles or concerns about the results?
probably do not archive something that should be this obvious.
Randy Tonkin
RV8 Wings
Vashon Island, WA
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|