Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:26 AM - Re: Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands (RV6 Flyer)
2. 03:50 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Brian Alley)
3. 04:01 AM - Re: Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
4. 06:15 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 10/16/06 (glen matejcek)
5. 06:48 AM - Re: Question on posting (Bob Collins)
6. 08:48 AM - FS: MicroMonitor, Air Vents and Transponder (glennpaulwilkinson)
7. 10:03 AM - Re: Question on posting (Tedd McHenry)
8. 07:52 PM - test (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
9. 08:03 PM - Re: RV6 ram air issues (don wentz)
10. 08:08 PM - Re: test Success (Tim Bryan)
11. 08:22 PM - Wing skin oil-canning (Doug Fischer)
12. 08:42 PM - Re: Wing skin oil-canning (sarg314)
13. 09:10 PM - Re: Wing skin oil-canning (Bob Collins)
14. 09:40 PM - Re: Wing skin oil-canning (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
About 15 years ago, I asked Van at the Merced fly-in the same question. Van
told me that the conduit was too heavy for him.
I have snap bushings in the ribs along the spar. I have the NAV antenna
coax in one set. (forget it if was the TOP or bottom of the wing.) The
other set of holes I ran the power wires for the landing lights, strobe
power supply (one in each wingtip) and nav lights.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,954 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht@veribox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht@veribox.net>
I bought Van's conduit, but now I am rethinking this. Any real reason to
prefer the conduit to using bushings? The latter requires only enlarging
existing holes while the conduit requires new 3/4" holes in each rib.
Then again, since I am doing navs/strobes and wingtip landing lights (all
Creative Air) as well as a NAV antenna in one tip and COM in the other
(that's COM2 with 1 under the belly), maybe I'll need BOTH. That is, two
runs. Will I?
About the wing stand that Van's has on the plans: certainly this is not
needed for QB wings. I am wondering what is the best way to work on the
wings in general: leave them in the cradle (the Checkoway style cradle I
built), table-top, sawhorses. I am out of town and cannot look at the
manual - have these thoughts going through my head, as I'll be starting on
the wings next week.
Paul
9A QB 1176
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
I just completed a piston swap in my 0320 to change from 150 to 160 HP. I was advised
to keep the cylinder head temps at 200 or less until the all important
first flight. When I did make the first flight I climbed to 5500 and ran full
throttle for 5 minutes, 23" map for 5 minutes then 22" for an hour. I did what
i need to do to keep the cylinder temps below 400. My cylinder temps dropped
30 degrees 20 minutes into the flight indicating that the rings had seated to
the freshly honed cylinders. These are plain steel cylinders and you should expect
to see the same thing happen, but it could take several hours with hardened
barrels.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands |
In a message dated 10/17/2006 4:28:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6_flyer@hotmail.com writes:
About 15 years ago, I asked Van at the Merced fly-in the same question. Van
told me that the conduit was too heavy for him.
====================
Wow, I knew Van was weight conscious but how heavy is a piece of thin wall
plastic tubing? The 3/4" is a bit large, all you need is 1/2" or what ever
would fit into the existing holes and I would guess the weight for both wings
would be just about 2 Lbs.
Then again, 15 years ago is a long time back. Back then Van was a purest and
did not have the QB Kits.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 10/16/06 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Paul-
I'd go with the conduit. Once the wing is closed up, adding wires, or even
removing ones that are clamped snugly, would be problematic. With a
conduit, you just leave a fish line in place, and you can easily add or
remove wires at your convenience.
As to working on the wings, I just put that rubbery non-skid carpet
underlayment on my work table and put the wing on top of that. It cushions
the wing and keeps it from scooting around while you work on it. No
bracketry or jigging is ever in the way. I'd use that technique again in a
heartbeat.
> From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht@veribox.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht@veribox.net>
>
> I bought Van's conduit, but now I am rethinking this. Any real
> reason to prefer the conduit to using bushings?
>
> About the wing stand that Van's has on the plans: certainly this is
> not needed for QB wings. I am wondering what is the best way to work
> on the wings in general:
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Question on posting |
Might be using Word for your e-mail editor. Word uses things like "smartie
quotes" which regular html can't figure out. Question marks, apostrophes,
quotation marks, colons, sem-colons.
As with everything else, it's Bill Gates' fault. (g)
Bob
St. Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jrlewismail-rv@yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Question on posting
Someone please tell me the trick to posting a message that does not end up
scrambled with extra characters. I have posted several notes and each gets
trashed. What am I doing wrong?
R,
JRL
Message 6
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| Subject: | FS: MicroMonitor, Air Vents and Transponder |
Rocky Mt. MicroMonitor
includes 2 backup batteries and all manuals
2nd digit of CHT is dim but readable, factory says can be fixed in the
field.
$650.00 OBO
Aluminum Air Vents
eyeball type, full swivel, clear anodized, also includes 2 new hose
flanges. Spruce sell for 176.50 ea.
Asking $150.00
Terra TRT 250 Transponder w/ Terra AT-3000 Blind Encoder
Set for $500.00 OBO
Glenn Wilkinson
gpww@alltel.net
478-452-6813 wk
478-453-3297 hw
Message 7
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| Subject: | Question on posting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Someone please tell me the trick to posting a message that does not end up
> scrambled with extra characters. I have posted several notes and each gets
> trashed. What am I doing wrong?
The simplest thing is to send your email as plain text, rather than HTML, RTF,
or some other format.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
do not archive
Message 8
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do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | RV6 ram air issues |
Ben,
I have AFP in a setup with a 180 degree bend from a rear sump which puts
the
metering unit right under the sump facing forward. I have tried some
straight ram air solutions, with mostly poor results.
This is in an RV-6 with O-360. I=92m currently using an enclosure that
connects directly to the std fwd air scoop and has a K&N cone filter
pointing forward inside of it, attached to an extension on the front of
the
unit.
It=92s working pretty well.
I may be able to scare-up some photos of the installations if you want
them.
Also, I found that the unit ran far too rich with the ram air issues,
requiring leaning at high power settings.
Dw
RV-6 950hrs
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
n801bh@netzero.com
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 5:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6 ram air issues
My hangar mate here in Jackson Hole Wy has a RV-6 with a 0-320, Airflow
Perf
injection and a Vetter crossflow exhaust. In testing the other day his
idea
was to remove the air filter to try to maximize the ram air effect to
the
intake. He removed the filter, took off on the carb heat source feeding
the
injector and at a few hundred feet up switched over the straight ram
air.
Low and behold the motor just about stopped so he quickly pulled the
carb
air source again and proceeded to climb up a few more thousand feet to
play
with it again. He tried all different fuel settings but the motor would
never smooth out running just on the ram air alone. He called Vans and
they
suggested he reinstall the filter and just leave it that way. He then
called
Airflow Perf and the guy there stated he has heard of several guys that
removed the filter without any hiccups. Our consensus is that the
incoming
air is so turbulant that it is not feeding the throat of the injector
body
properly. We are really looking for some feedback on others who have
tried
this similar trick.. The details are,,,, he is at 6600 MSL, the temp
was
56f and he did most of the testing at 10,000 msl. Ok guys, anyone want
to
jump right up and give us some input,, please. Thanks in advance...
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
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Message 10
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Yeah it works, but boy is it quiet
Do Not Archive
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: test
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Wing skin oil-canning |
I just finished riveting on the top LH wing skins and I noticed one of
the
"squares" was indented and would "oil can" when pushed from the inside.
The square is bounded by two ribs (the fourth and fifth from the tip),
the
forward spar, and the "J"stringer. It is the fourth bay inboard from
the
tip (RV-9). All other skin "squares" are tight/neutral. Any ideas
(other
than drilling out every rivet in the skin) to address this issue? I was
thinking of drilling out the rivets around the square to allow the skin
to
average out between three squares and re-rivet. Just wanted to see if
anyone else has run into this problem and worked out a solution. Other
than this the skin is perfect (well, pretty good at least). Thanks in
advance for the help!
Doug Fischer
Jenison, MI
RV-9A Wings
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wing skin oil-canning |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Doug:
How about rivetting a stiffener to the underside of the skin right
across the middle of the square. A piece of that real light 0.025
"angle" that's used to stiffen the elevators and rudder would probably
do it. An extra line of 5 or 6 rivets won't be noticed.
Doug Fischer wrote:
> I just finished riveting on the top LH wing skins and I noticed one of
> the
> "squares" was indented and would "oil can" when pushed from the inside.
> The square is bounded by two ribs (the fourth and fifth from the tip),
> the
> forward spar, and the "J"stringer. It is the fourth bay inboard from the
> tip (RV-9). All other skin "squares" are tight/neutral. Any ideas
> (other
> than drilling out every rivet in the skin) to address this issue? I was
> thinking of drilling out the rivets around the square to allow the
> skin to
> average out between three squares and re-rivet. Just wanted to see if
> anyone else has run into this problem and worked out a solution. Other
> than this the skin is perfect (well, pretty good at least). Thanks in
> advance for the help!
--
Tom Sargent
Message 13
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| Subject: | Wing skin oil-canning |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Mine had oil canned a bit but once I had all the skins on it worked fine,''
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing skin oil-canning
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Doug:
How about rivetting a stiffener to the underside of the skin right
across the middle of the square. A piece of that real light 0.025 "angle"
that's used to stiffen the elevators and rudder would probably do it. An
extra line of 5 or 6 rivets won't be noticed.
Doug Fischer wrote:
> I just finished riveting on the top LH wing skins and I noticed one of
> the "squares" was indented and would "oil can" when pushed from the
> inside.
> The square is bounded by two ribs (the fourth and fifth from the tip),
> the forward spar, and the "J"stringer. It is the fourth bay inboard
> from the tip (RV-9). All other skin "squares" are tight/neutral. Any
> ideas (other than drilling out every rivet in the skin) to address
> this issue? I was thinking of drilling out the rivets around the
> square to allow the skin to average out between three squares and
> re-rivet. Just wanted to see if anyone else has run into this problem
> and worked out a solution. Other than this the skin is perfect (well,
> pretty good at least). Thanks in advance for the help!
--
Tom Sargent
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Wing skin oil-canning |
In a message dated 10/17/2006 8:23:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dfischer@iserv.net writes:
I just finished riveting on the top LH wing skins and I noticed one of the
"squares" was indented and would "oil can" when pushed from the inside.
The square is bounded by two ribs (the fourth and fifth from the tip), the
forward spar, and the "J"stringer. It is the fourth bay inboard from the
tip (RV-9). All other skin "squares" are tight/neutral. Any ideas (other
than drilling out every rivet in the skin) to address this issue? I was
thinking of drilling out the rivets around the square to allow the skin to
average out between three squares and re-rivet. Just wanted to see if
anyone else has run into this problem and worked out a solution. Other
than this the skin is perfect (well, pretty good at least). Thanks in
advance for the help!
==============================
IMO, this case screams out for a very light aluminum angle bonded to the
underside of the skin using one of the 3M structural acrylic adhesive tapes
others have discussed on this list in the past for attaching rudder and aileron
stiffeners.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 813hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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