Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:33 AM - Re: Video Camera (Thomas Lukasczyk)
2. 06:38 AM - TCM (Wheeler North)
3. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: Ignition & FI (Rhonda Bewley)
4. 07:50 AM - Re: Re: Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface (Shemp)
5. 08:06 AM - Re: Re: Ignition & FI (Ron Lee)
6. 11:09 AM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Phil Birkelbach)
7. 11:09 AM - Re: Re: Ignition & FI (Randy Lervold)
8. 04:22 PM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Charles Reiche)
9. 04:22 PM - Re: Re: Ignition & FI (Charles Reiche)
10. 05:16 PM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Phil Birkelbach)
11. 05:21 PM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Bobby Hester)
12. 05:21 PM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Brian Alley)
13. 06:37 PM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Jim Jewell)
14. 08:08 PM - Re: Re: Ignition & FI (Charlie England)
Message 1
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| Subject: | re: Video Camera |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Thomas Lukasczyk" <Lukasczyk@gmx.net>
Hello Lothar
@How do you activate the camera when it is mounted on the wing?
It is actually a problem I have not been able to solve yet. Tape-recorders will
not stay on stanby forever. They do switch off automaticly after a couple of
minutes. That prevents the rotating video-head from damaging the videotape when
it is not moving. The infrared remote control that comes with the camera has
some trouble in bright sunlight as well. Some cameras have a wired remote or
there is one available. I got one of these but I still have to make a longer wire.
Right now, I start the camera on the ground during preflight. That gives
you an hour.....
@How far out did you mount the wing camera? From the picture it looks like that
the mounting bracket is removable.
Since the RVs do only have a small wingspan and it requires a wide-angle lens to
have at least half of your plane on the video, I mounted it as far out as possible.
Just half an inch away from the wingtips.
The bracket itself is removable. It will stay on the wing with a one layer of strong
duct-tape.
@With your mount on the inside of the canopy, how much interference do you get
from
the prop and reflection of the canopy?
A lot. The reflecion of the canopy is the worst by far though. It depends on the
direction of the sunlight and the time of the day but sometimes there few useable
minutes of video on the tape. I thought about getting a polariser
but I have no idea how much it actually improves things here.
Thomas, rv-4, germany
--
GMX DSL-Flatrate 0,- Euro* - berall, wo DSL verfgbar ist!
NEU: Jetzt bis zu 16.000 kBit/s! http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Isn't Aerosance now owned by TCM? Teledyne Continental Motors
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Ignition & FI |
Kathleen:
We have talked to the Aerosance guys about FADEC for some Legacy
engines. They always refer us to TCM, and TCM always refers us back to
Aerosance. Ref the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to
roll the system out by the end of September. I'm now hearing that it
will be the beginning of the year before the bugs are worked out. The
system lists for $7900, about $3000 more than standard mags and fuel
injection at today's price.
Hope this information is helpful to you. Best of luck.
Rhonda
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen Evans
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
After 18 months of no progress, I'm finally back to building (almost).
I have decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any response
from the Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems? Is
anyone getting good service from them? Finally, do any of you have
experience with Eagle EMS? I know it's not tuned to each cylinder, but
it is FADEC-like. I'm looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360
combination...
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us <http://www.rv7.us/>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface |
--> RV-List message posted by: Shemp <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I remember seeing someone using one of those foam paint brushes to seal
that gap. Havent tried it yet though.
Shemp
FLYaDIVE@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/12/06 1:27:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> matthew@n523rv.com writes:
>
>
>> My thought was to take some baffle material as you suggested, cut out an
>> appropriate sized hole with a slit somewhere to slip it over the flap tube
>> and then just glue it or pop rivet it in place. Let me know if you come up
>> with a better idea.
>>
>>
>> Matthew
>>
> =====================
> Matt:
>
> After spending two years asking question, plugging holes and making diverters
> in the hopes of curing the CO problem that many if not al lRV-6's have ... I
> have finally come up with a solution. It works and it is cheep, yet I have
> not solved the UGLY part of the problem.
> The solution was two curved down exhaust pipes from a local auto shop. They
> are held on with 'U' Clamps and a hunk of safety wire. The only good thing I
> can say about this is there is ZERO CO in the cabin.
>
> I have tried making bellow boots to cover the flap rod, adding a rear facing
> scupper scoop back by the tail, all sorts of diverters in different positions
> and sizes, extra cowl flaps, the hole punched exhaust tips, lowering and
> raising the exhaust pipes. NOTHING worked. Except the two curved down exhaust
> pipes. They give the sound of POWER and maybe even a bit of real useful power
> also.
>
> Barry
> "Chop'd Liver"
> RV-6
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
>
>. I=92m looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination=85
I must be too old-fashioned and resistant to change but I
am not enamored with FADEC. Seems like a costly option.
Have you considered things like the P-Mag?
Obviously you can do whatever you wish and my opinion
(perhaps not well-informed at that) should not dissuade
you from doing whatever you want. But given X amount to
spend on an aircraft, I would think that going with some
new glass panel with terrain avoidance, great mapping, weather
etc offers more to the flying experience and safety than FADEC.
Oh yea, big screen glass too!
Ron Lee
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine. Just
hold it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the flywheel.
Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get to that spinning
prop. Worked for me.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
> <ghinman@mts.net>
>
>
> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
> an O-360
> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
> the flywheel.
> The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
> flywheel attached!!
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
And the Eagle system has FIXED ignition timing, hardly state of the art,
or even modern!
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Rhonda Bewley
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
Kathleen:
We have talked to the Aerosance guys about FADEC for some Legacy
engines. They always refer us to TCM, and TCM always refers us back to
Aerosance. Ref the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to
roll the system out by the end of September. I'm now hearing that it
will be the beginning of the year before the bugs are worked out. The
system lists for $7900, about $3000 more than standard mags and fuel
injection at today's price.
Hope this information is helpful to you. Best of luck.
Rhonda
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen Evans
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:30 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
After 18 months of no progress, I'm finally back to building (almost).
I have decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any
response from the Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems?
Is anyone getting good service from them? Finally, do any of you have
experience with Eagle EMS? I know it's not tuned to each cylinder, but
it is FADEC-like. I'm looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination.
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Reiche <charlieray@optonline.net>
Are you suggesting that you are timing your engine using a timing light and
while running? If so, you're nuts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine. Just hold
> it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the flywheel.
> Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get to that spinning
> prop. Worked for me.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
>> <ghinman@mts.net>
>>
>>
>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>> an O-360
>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
>> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>> the flywheel.
>> The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
>> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>> flywheel attached!!
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
magnetos are fixed timing except for the impulse coupling mode.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
And the Eagle system has FIXED ignition timing, hardly state of the art, or even
modern!
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Rhonda Bewley
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
Kathleen:
We have talked to the Aerosance guys about FADEC for some Legacy engines.
They always refer us to TCM, and TCM always refers us back to Aerosance. Ref
the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to roll the system out by the
end of September. I'm now hearing that it will be the beginning of the year
before the bugs are worked out. The system lists for $7900, about $3000 more
than standard mags and fuel injection at today's price.
Hope this information is helpful to you. Best of luck.
Rhonda
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen Evans
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:30 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
After 18 months of no progress, I'm finally back to building (almost). I have
decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any response from the
Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems? Is anyone getting good
service from them? Finally, do any of you have experience with Eagle EMS? I
know it's not tuned to each cylinder, but it is FADEC-like. I'm looking at FADEC
for an RV-7/XP-360 combination.
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
It'd be pretty stupid to try to get a timing light to work with the
engine stopped.
Nobody would try to adjust the timing with the engine running, you
simply check it. If it's not quite right then stop the engine, make
an adjustment and retry. This is the suggested method in the
Lightspeed documentation.
You don't stand any closer to the prop than the firewall. If you
don't feel comfortable doing that then don't do it, but I assure you
that I am not nuts.
Phil
On Oct 19, 2006, at 18:20, Charles Reiche wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charles Reiche
> <charlieray@optonline.net>
>
> Are you suggesting that you are timing your engine using a timing
> light and while running? If so, you're nuts.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Birkelbach"
> <phil@petrasoft.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:02 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>>
>> I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine.
>> Just hold it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the
>> flywheel. Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get
>> to that spinning prop. Worked for me.
>>
>> Godspeed,
>>
>> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>> RV-7 N727WB
>> http://www.myrv7.com
>>
>>
>>
>> George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
>>> <ghinman@mts.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>>> an O-360
>>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by
>>> using
>>> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>>> the flywheel.
>>> The problem is that the front baffle is in
>>> the way.
>>> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>>> flywheel attached!!
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
The baffles should not be hard to remove. I just took mine off with the
prop and fly wheel in place, they came right off.
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
> <ghinman@mts.net>
>
>
> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
> an O-360
> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
> the flywheel.
> The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
> flywheel attached!!
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
What's nuts about it. I do it all the time. I've also located induction leaks with
a can of starting fluid with the engine at idle. I know some have used a vacuum
and soap solution but the other way is easier and quicker in my opinion.
If you have a Plasma system and ever have a backfire in the induction system
with the throttle closed, you'll probably be looking for a blown gasket. You
know the prop is there, just stay away from it. Timing the mags using a timing
light is much more accurate. It's true Dynamic timing!!! Also the light speed
is best timed with a timing light per the manual. You might be surprised what
you see and here standing right beside your engine, cowling off and engine running.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
I mounted a pointer on the forward side of the front baffle. The pointer can
be set at the case center line very close to the back of the flywheel. It
can be swung away, lock screwed and safety wired when not in use.
This provides an easy and accurate way to set the timing. Reducces
parallelex problems. The back of the flywheel has it's timing mark
highlighted so that when the pointer and the mark meet the timing is right.
I can make pictures available.
Jim in Kelowna, First engine run done. GIIG is alive and ready to fly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bobbyhester@charter.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
>
> The baffles should not be hard to remove. I just took mine off with the
> prop and fly wheel in place, they came right off.
>
> ------
> Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>
>
> George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
>> <ghinman@mts.net>
>>
>>
>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>> an O-360
>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
>> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>> the flywheel.
>> The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
>> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>> flywheel attached!!
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen Evans
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:30 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
>
> After 18 months of no progress, Im finally back to building (almost).
> I have decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any
> response from the Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems?
> Is anyone getting good service from them? Finally, do any of you have
> experience with Eagle EMS? I know its not tuned to each cylinder, but
> it is FADEC-like. Im looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination
>
> Kathleen Evans
>
How much work are you willing to do to get something FADEC-like? (Almost
nothing out there is really FullAuthorityDEC.) Tracy Crook (Real World
Solutions) makes a dual-computer, redundant fuel/ignition controller
that can work on a Lyc, but you'd have to install injector bungs on the
intakes & develop your own plumbing to the injectors. It uses automotive
style timed injection with high pressure pumps requiring a fuel return
line to the tank.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/
These guys:
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
make billet injector bungs you can use to mount the injectors. They also
make an injector/ignition controller adaptable to Lycs.
Charlie
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