Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Charlie Kuss)
2. 05:33 AM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Charlie Kuss)
3. 01:41 PM - I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 (Hal Kempthorne)
4. 02:00 PM - Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 (Richard Dudley)
5. 02:32 PM - Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 (Doug Gray)
6. 02:45 PM - Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 (Kevin Horton)
7. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: Ignition & FI (don wentz)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
Charles,
I'm with Phil on this. Using a timing light is the ultimate for
timing accuracy. I generally sit on the right wing while checking the
timing with the engine running. This works well when done in low
light, such as at dusk. As Phil mentions, adjustments are made with
the engine off.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>It'd be pretty stupid to try to get a timing light to work with the
>engine stopped.
>
>Nobody would try to adjust the timing with the engine running, you
>simply check it. If it's not quite right then stop the engine, make
>an adjustment and retry. This is the suggested method in the
>Lightspeed documentation.
>
>You don't stand any closer to the prop than the firewall. If you
>don't feel comfortable doing that then don't do it, but I assure you
>that I am not nuts.
>
>Phil
>
>On Oct 19, 2006, at 18:20, Charles Reiche wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Reiche
>><charlieray@optonline.net>
>>
>>Are you suggesting that you are timing your engine using a timing
>>light and while running? If so, you're nuts.
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Birkelbach"
>><phil@petrasoft.net>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:02 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>>>
>>>I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine.
>>>Just hold it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the
>>>flywheel. Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get
>>>to that spinning prop. Worked for me.
>>>
>>>Godspeed,
>>>
>>>Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>>>RV-7 N727WB
>>>http://www.myrv7.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
>>>><ghinman@mts.net>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>>>>an O-360
>>>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by
>>>>using
>>>>a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>>>>the flywheel.
>>>> The problem is that the front baffle is in
>>>>the way.
>>>>Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>>>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>>>>flywheel attached!!
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
Brian,
Using a flammable fluid to locate induction leaks is a time honored
technique among auto mechanics. However, I would like to suggest that
aerosol carburetor cleaner or aerosol throttle body cleaner is a
better choice. The ether in starting fluid is HIGHLY volatile and
poses the threat of detonation. Carb and throttle body cleaners are safer.
Charlie Kuss
>What's nuts about it. I do it all the time. I've also located
>induction leaks with a can of starting fluid with the engine at
>idle. I know some have used a vacuum and soap solution but the other
>way is easier and quicker in my opinion. If you have a
>Plasma system and ever have a backfire in the induction system with
>the throttle closed, you'll probably be looking for a blown gasket.
>You know the prop is there, just stay away from it. Timing the mags
>using a timing light is much more accurate. It's true Dynamic
>timing!!! Also the light speed is best timed with a timing light per
>the manual. You might be surprised what you see and here standing
>right beside your engine, cowling off and engine running.
>
>BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
>CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
>101 Caroline Circle
>Hurricane, WV 25526
>www.carbonfibercomposites.net
>304-562-6800 home
>304-395-4932 cell
>
>How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 |
Hi,
Actually, I just need power and ground pin numbers.
hal
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 |
Hi Hal,
I could send your the whole pin-out, if you need it.
The power and ground for DB-25 are:
Power Input (+11 to +33): 15
Power Ground: 13
Power Ground: 25
14VDC/5 VC Panel Lighting Input: 24
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Actually, I just need power and ground pin numbers.
>
> hal
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Hal,
Pin 15 Power In 14/28V
Pin 13 Power Ground
Pin 25 Signal Ground
Pin 23 28V Panel Lighting In
Pin 24 14V/5V Panel Lighting In
Pin 1 Avionics Master On (Input) (Tie to Pin 15 for auto power up)
I strongly recommend you drop an email to Garmin tech support and ask
for a copy of the install manual. I can send a copy but my edition (Rev
L June 2006) has so many errors, it's no wonder they require it be
supplied with a pre-built harness.
There is no such thing as a simple question!
Doug Gray
On Fri, 2006-10-20 at 13:37 -0700, Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Actually, I just need power and ground pin numbers.
>
> hal
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 20 Oct 2006, at 16:37, Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Actually, I just need power and ground pin numbers.
>
From the install manual, rev J, dated May 2003:
Power - pin 15
Ground - pins 13 & 25
Panel lighting input - pin 24 (assuming a 14v system)
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Ignition & FI |
Kathleen,
I agree with Ron.
I personally know of 2 aircraft with Fadecs. One has fallen from the
sky at
least twice, the other is not working well.
I fly with that one fairly often, and one time on a very long cross
country.
With 800 hr mags I consistently get much better fuel economy than the
fadec
as well.
I now have an E-mag on the right and a 950 hr Slick Mag on the left,
both
are working well.
Fadec and other systems may be a thing of the future, but that future
isn=92t
here yet.
As always, if your goal is to =91experiment=92 and help =91blaze the
trail=92 for
the rest of us, then go for it.
Otherwise, spend your $$ on something else.
Don
RV-6 950hrs
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
. I=92m looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination=85
I must be too old-fashioned and resistant to change but I
am not enamored with FADEC. Seems like a costly option.
Have you considered things like the P-Mag?
Obviously you can do whatever you wish and my opinion
(perhaps not well-informed at that) should not dissuade
you from doing whatever you want. But given X amount to
spend on an aircraft, I would think that going with some
new glass panel with terrain avoidance, great mapping, weather
etc offers more to the flying experience and safety than FADEC.
Oh yea, big screen glass too!
Ron Lee
10/20/2006
--
10/20/2006
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