Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:13 AM - ()
2. 05:54 AM - Re: (Charlie Kuss)
3. 06:20 AM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Phil Birkelbach)
4. 06:35 AM - Re: (Bob Collins)
5. 06:51 AM - Re: Re: Ignition & FI (Rhonda Bewley)
6. 07:34 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Phil Birkelbach)
7. 10:51 AM - Re: (Tom Callender)
8. 05:20 PM - Re: FAA seat belt requirement (Paul Besing)
9. 05:39 PM - Re: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement (Emrath)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: <billsettle@bellsouth.net>
I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on the wall until time
to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen / read where people have said not
to leave the plastic on the skins "too long" as it will become difficult to remove.
How long is "too long"? My build shop is not temperature controlled, I
live in North Carolina, & it will probably take me a few years to finish. And
if it is left on too long, how do you get it off?
Thanks,
Bill Settle.
Message 2
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Bill,
That issue was only a problem with the older, clear PVC plastic. I
don't think you'll have a problem with the newer, blue colored
plastic. It uses a weaker adhesive.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: <billsettle@bellsouth.net>
>
>I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on the
>wall until time to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen / read
>where people have said not to leave the plastic on the skins "too
>long" as it will become difficult to remove. How long is "too
>long"? My build shop is not temperature controlled, I live in North
>Carolina, & it will probably take me a few years to finish. And if
>it is left on too long, how do you get it off?
>
>Thanks,
>Bill Settle.
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
Yes I checked it with a light because I was troubleshooting some engine
problems that I had. It turns out that the "mechanics" that assembled
my engine can't read directions and timed the Lightspeed when the LED
turned ON instead of OFF. When I checked it with the light (this is a
two pilot job BTW) it was 5 degrees off. After I readjusted the hall
effect sensor (according to the book) it was right on the money.
The way I did it was to clamp a piece of hinge pin somewhere on the
engine so that you have a pointer just behind the flywheel. Then rotate
the prop until the TDC mark on the front lines up. (Mine is the little
hole in the starter) Then you can line your pointer up to the TDC mark
on the back of the flywheel. Then take a sharpie and darken the 25 deg
mark. Then you unhook the MAP sensor to the Lightspeed, connect the
strobe light, have another pilot start the engine and then just check it
like a car.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Bobby Hester wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
>
> Phil, I have the halls effect sensor also and just got it adjusted and
> started my engine for the first time today. Did you check yours with
> the auto strobe light? If so how did you do it? Do you have a key
> switch? Do you know how the wires are hooked up on the back of it? It
> appear that my mag is not grounded with the key off.
>
> ------
> Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>
>
> Phil Birkelbach wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>>
>> I have the hall effect sensor on mine which is adjustable so it makes
>> sense for me to check it on occasion.
>>
>> Godspeed,
>>
>> Phil
>>
>> Mark E Navratil wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark E Navratil <czechsix@juno.com>
>>>
>>> I'm curious, has anyone actually found that the Lightspeed timing was
>>> off, and if so, did you discover any reason for the inaccuracy? I have
>>> dual Lightspeeds with the crank trigger pickups and I admit I did not
>>> check the timing with a light. I did verify that the magnets were
>>> installed in the flywheel and the pickup bracket was correctly aligned
>>> per Lightspeed instructions. After 100 hrs in flight, no problems with
>>> anything. But that doesn't guarantee the timing is right so maybe I
>>> need
>>> to check it??
>>>
>>> --Mark Navratil
>>> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>>> RV-8A N2D with 100 hrs of huge grins...
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
I put my elevators on a couple of weeks ago. I built them 3 years ago and
attached 'em to a HS I built 5 years ago. Taking the plastic off was not
difficult.
Do not archive
Bob
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> billsettle@bellsouth.net
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:11 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List:
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <billsettle@bellsouth.net>
>
> I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on
> the wall until time to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen
> / read where people have said not to leave the plastic on the
> skins "too long" as it will become difficult to remove. How
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: Ignition & FI |
I don't have any data to pass on. I got my information from one of the
three engine shops that they have set up to sell the product. Sorry I
couldn't be of more assistance.
Regards,
Rhonda
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gordon or marge
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rhonda Bewley
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 9:02 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
Ref the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to roll
the system out by the end of September. I'm now hearing that it will be
the beginning of the year before the bugs are worked out. The system
lists for $7900, about $3000 more than standard mags and fuel injection
at today's price.
.
Rhonda
Rhonda: Could you amplify on the above comment a bit, please?
I have been waiting for the Eagle system hoping it would work out.
Their Oshkosh presense was not too impressive. If it is going to be
months before they have their problems solved with no real certainty
they are truly solved, then my backup plan (have ordered E-mag/P-mag
combo) should be allowed to proceed. Thank you.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
Bobby,
Congrats on being ready to run the engine. I had all kinds of trouble
with my XP-360. Not so much with the engine, the engine has been GREAT,
but with the way that it was assembled and adjusted (Not done by
Superior, it was before they had a build shop). In any case I probably
had 5 hours of ground running on the thing before I was brave enough to
take it flying. The rings seated just fine at about 12 hours of
flying. I have nice low oil consumption (1 qt every 10 hours) and
everything runs nice and cool.
It's easy to get focused on breaking the engine in properly, but I think
you'll find that it'll break in fine. I asked an A&P/IA about it once
and he said that he never had an engine fail to break in. If you are
not comfortable with some aspect of how the engine is running, fix it on
the ground even if it takes 20 hours of ground running to do it. Be a
pilot when you fly the plane and not a mechanic. If you (the pilot)
decide that you need to slow down, don't let you (the mechanic) keep you
from pulling the throttle back. You can always hone the cylinders later
if the rings don't seat. It'll cost you some gaskets and an afternoon,
but if mine broke in (after I did everything "wrong") then you won't
have any trouble.
By ignoring those that said "run it once on the ground and then fly it
hard" I managed to both survive and have a fine running engine. :-)
As far as what the magic temperature is... I dunno but I'd guess it to
be around 200 deg for the CHT's. You should be able to test or adjust
just about anything you need to before the temps get that high.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Bobby Hester wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
>
> I'm hoping to start my XP O-360 engine for the first time Wedensday. I
> remember some discussion a while back about ground runs. This is a new
> engine and I know that when I fly it I should fly it fast til the
> rings seat and oil consumption stabilizes. I think someone said that
> during the inital ground runs that you should keep the cylinder temps
> below a certain temp untill it flys. So what is that temp?
>
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Callender" <tcallender@alltel.net>
Hi Bill,
I just removed some plastic from some four yr old fuselage skin using a
"hair" blow dryer to heat as I removed the plastic with no problem...
Tom C
Lewisville, NC
N793JT (reserved)
---- Original Message -----
From: <billsettle@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 8:11 AM
Subject: RV-List:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <billsettle@bellsouth.net>
>
> I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on the wall
> until time to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen / read where people
> have said not to leave the plastic on the skins "too long" as it will
> become difficult to remove. How long is "too long"? My build shop is not
> temperature controlled, I live in North Carolina, & it will probably take
> me a few years to finish. And if it is left on too long, how do you get
> it off?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Settle.
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: FAA seat belt requirement |
No, No, No...it does not depend on the inspector. The inspector is WRONG if he
says it has to be TSO'd. This has been hashed out many times with respect to
IFR equipment requirements, that it has to be TSO'd in an experimental. There
is not one thing on the aircraft that has to be TSO'd. Go find another inspector.
Van's has sold thousands of seatbelts I'm sure, and it has never been
a problem as far as I know.
Das Fed, you out there? You can clarify this, I'm sure.
Paul Besing
John Porter <december29@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Yep,
I have the same concerns as mine hasn't been inspected yet. I purchased two
sets of 5 pt harnesses from Simpson that are super strong and certified for
NASCAR. I'm hoping to not have a problem, I guess it depends on the inspector.
John
80002
----- Original Message -----
From: kenneth hill
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very much.
I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff. However,
the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from Van's, were not TSO'd
and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would have to change them
to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has anyone else run into this?
I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an experimental and therefore
the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable." Do I make the government happy and
maybe avoid problems down the road by changing them or continue with what I
have installed?
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
---------------------------------
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
The wording of this Advisory Circular, which does not carrry the full weight
of the FARs states that you "should" not "must" install TSO seat belts.
Marty RV-6A Wiring
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Ken:
Read AC 20-27E section 7 d (2). (its on page 4)
http://members.eaa.org/home/govt/rules/ac20-27e.pdf
or
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular
.nsf/0/0ca2845e2aafffbb86256dbf00640cb2/$FILE/AC20-27F.pdf
it says:
"d. Designing the Cockpit/Cabin. When you design the cockpit or cabin,
you
should do the
following:"
-------- snip ---------
"(2) Install FAA TSO-approved seatbelts and shoulder harnesses. ..."
Note that it says "...you should..." not that you must.
I am trying to find in the regulations and FAA orders where it says
that you
MUST have seatbelts in an amateur built experimental aircraft . I do
not
know any DARs or FAA inspectors that will put their name on the
Special
Airworthiness Certificate pink slip (FAA Form 8130-7) on any amateur
bult
aircraft that does not have seat belts.
If you find the FAA REQUIREMENT that says you MUST have seatbelts in
an
amateur built experimental, please post it to the list.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,962 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://www.rvdar.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "kenneth hill" <khill5@indy.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very
much.
I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff.
However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from
Van's,
were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would
have
to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has
anyone
else run into this? I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an
experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable."
Do I
make the government happy and maybe avoid problems down the road by
changing
them or continue with what I have installed?
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN.
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