---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 10/23/06: 9 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:13 AM - () 2. 05:54 AM - Re: (Charlie Kuss) 3. 06:20 AM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (Phil Birkelbach) 4. 06:35 AM - Re: (Bob Collins) 5. 06:51 AM - Re: Re: Ignition & FI (Rhonda Bewley) 6. 07:34 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Phil Birkelbach) 7. 10:51 AM - Re: (Tom Callender) 8. 05:20 PM - Re: FAA seat belt requirement (Paul Besing) 9. 05:39 PM - Re: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement (Emrath) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:04 AM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: --> RV-List message posted by: I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on the wall until time to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen / read where people have said not to leave the plastic on the skins "too long" as it will become difficult to remove. How long is "too long"? My build shop is not temperature controlled, I live in North Carolina, & it will probably take me a few years to finish. And if it is left on too long, how do you get it off? Thanks, Bill Settle. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:54:35 AM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Bill, That issue was only a problem with the older, clear PVC plastic. I don't think you'll have a problem with the newer, blue colored plastic. It uses a weaker adhesive. Charlie Kuss >--> RV-List message posted by: > >I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on the >wall until time to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen / read >where people have said not to leave the plastic on the skins "too >long" as it will become difficult to remove. How long is "too >long"? My build shop is not temperature controlled, I live in North >Carolina, & it will probably take me a few years to finish. And if >it is left on too long, how do you get it off? > >Thanks, >Bill Settle. > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:20:33 AM PST US From: Phil Birkelbach Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach Yes I checked it with a light because I was troubleshooting some engine problems that I had. It turns out that the "mechanics" that assembled my engine can't read directions and timed the Lightspeed when the LED turned ON instead of OFF. When I checked it with the light (this is a two pilot job BTW) it was 5 degrees off. After I readjusted the hall effect sensor (according to the book) it was right on the money. The way I did it was to clamp a piece of hinge pin somewhere on the engine so that you have a pointer just behind the flywheel. Then rotate the prop until the TDC mark on the front lines up. (Mine is the little hole in the starter) Then you can line your pointer up to the TDC mark on the back of the flywheel. Then take a sharpie and darken the 25 deg mark. Then you unhook the MAP sensor to the Lightspeed, connect the strobe light, have another pilot start the engine and then just check it like a car. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com Bobby Hester wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester > > Phil, I have the halls effect sensor also and just got it adjusted and > started my engine for the first time today. Did you check yours with > the auto strobe light? If so how did you do it? Do you have a key > switch? Do you know how the wires are hooked up on the back of it? It > appear that my mag is not grounded with the key off. > > ------ > Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY > Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ > > > Phil Birkelbach wrote: > >> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach >> >> I have the hall effect sensor on mine which is adjustable so it makes >> sense for me to check it on occasion. >> >> Godspeed, >> >> Phil >> >> Mark E Navratil wrote: >> >>> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark E Navratil >>> >>> I'm curious, has anyone actually found that the Lightspeed timing was >>> off, and if so, did you discover any reason for the inaccuracy? I have >>> dual Lightspeeds with the crank trigger pickups and I admit I did not >>> check the timing with a light. I did verify that the magnets were >>> installed in the flywheel and the pickup bracket was correctly aligned >>> per Lightspeed instructions. After 100 hrs in flight, no problems with >>> anything. But that doesn't guarantee the timing is right so maybe I >>> need >>> to check it?? >>> >>> --Mark Navratil >>> Cedar Rapids, Iowa >>> RV-8A N2D with 100 hrs of huge grins... >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:35:58 AM PST US From: "Bob Collins" Subject: RE: RV-List: --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" I put my elevators on a couple of weeks ago. I built them 3 years ago and attached 'em to a HS I built 5 years ago. Taking the plastic off was not difficult. Do not archive Bob > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > billsettle@bellsouth.net > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:11 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: > > I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on > the wall until time to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen > / read where people have said not to leave the plastic on the > skins "too long" as it will become difficult to remove. How > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:51:40 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI From: "Rhonda Bewley" I don't have any data to pass on. I got my information from one of the three engine shops that they have set up to sell the product. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance. Regards, Rhonda ________________________________ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gordon or marge Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:53 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rhonda Bewley Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 9:02 AM To: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI Ref the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to roll the system out by the end of September. I'm now hearing that it will be the beginning of the year before the bugs are worked out. The system lists for $7900, about $3000 more than standard mags and fuel injection at today's price. . Rhonda Rhonda: Could you amplify on the above comment a bit, please? I have been waiting for the Eagle system hoping it would work out. Their Oshkosh presense was not too impressive. If it is going to be months before they have their problems solved with no real certainty they are truly solved, then my backup plan (have ordered E-mag/P-mag combo) should be allowed to proceed. Thank you. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:34:33 AM PST US From: Phil Birkelbach Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach Bobby, Congrats on being ready to run the engine. I had all kinds of trouble with my XP-360. Not so much with the engine, the engine has been GREAT, but with the way that it was assembled and adjusted (Not done by Superior, it was before they had a build shop). In any case I probably had 5 hours of ground running on the thing before I was brave enough to take it flying. The rings seated just fine at about 12 hours of flying. I have nice low oil consumption (1 qt every 10 hours) and everything runs nice and cool. It's easy to get focused on breaking the engine in properly, but I think you'll find that it'll break in fine. I asked an A&P/IA about it once and he said that he never had an engine fail to break in. If you are not comfortable with some aspect of how the engine is running, fix it on the ground even if it takes 20 hours of ground running to do it. Be a pilot when you fly the plane and not a mechanic. If you (the pilot) decide that you need to slow down, don't let you (the mechanic) keep you from pulling the throttle back. You can always hone the cylinders later if the rings don't seat. It'll cost you some gaskets and an afternoon, but if mine broke in (after I did everything "wrong") then you won't have any trouble. By ignoring those that said "run it once on the ground and then fly it hard" I managed to both survive and have a fine running engine. :-) As far as what the magic temperature is... I dunno but I'd guess it to be around 200 deg for the CHT's. You should be able to test or adjust just about anything you need to before the temps get that high. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com Bobby Hester wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester > > I'm hoping to start my XP O-360 engine for the first time Wedensday. I > remember some discussion a while back about ground runs. This is a new > engine and I know that when I fly it I should fly it fast til the > rings seat and oil consumption stabilizes. I think someone said that > during the inital ground runs that you should keep the cylinder temps > below a certain temp untill it flys. So what is that temp? > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:51:25 AM PST US From: "Tom Callender" Subject: Re: RV-List: --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Callender" Hi Bill, I just removed some plastic from some four yr old fuselage skin using a "hair" blow dryer to heat as I removed the plastic with no problem... Tom C Lewisville, NC N793JT (reserved) ---- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 8:11 AM Subject: RV-List: > --> RV-List message posted by: > > I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on the wall > until time to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen / read where people > have said not to leave the plastic on the skins "too long" as it will > become difficult to remove. How long is "too long"? My build shop is not > temperature controlled, I live in North Carolina, & it will probably take > me a few years to finish. And if it is left on too long, how do you get > it off? > > Thanks, > Bill Settle. > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:20:15 PM PST US From: Paul Besing Subject: Re: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement No, No, No...it does not depend on the inspector. The inspector is WRONG if he says it has to be TSO'd. This has been hashed out many times with respect to IFR equipment requirements, that it has to be TSO'd in an experimental. There is not one thing on the aircraft that has to be TSO'd. Go find another inspector. Van's has sold thousands of seatbelts I'm sure, and it has never been a problem as far as I know. Das Fed, you out there? You can clarify this, I'm sure. Paul Besing John Porter wrote: Yep, I have the same concerns as mine hasn't been inspected yet. I purchased two sets of 5 pt harnesses from Simpson that are super strong and certified for NASCAR. I'm hoping to not have a problem, I guess it depends on the inspector. John 80002 ----- Original Message ----- From: kenneth hill To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:21 AM Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very much. I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff. However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from Van's, were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would have to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has anyone else run into this? I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable." Do I make the government happy and maybe avoid problems down the road by changing them or continue with what I have installed? Ken Hill Plainfield, IN. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List --------------------------------- Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 05:39:43 PM PST US From: "Emrath" Subject: Re: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" The wording of this Advisory Circular, which does not carrry the full weight of the FARs states that you "should" not "must" install TSO seat belts. Marty RV-6A Wiring --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" Ken: Read AC 20-27E section 7 d (2). (its on page 4) http://members.eaa.org/home/govt/rules/ac20-27e.pdf or http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular .nsf/0/0ca2845e2aafffbb86256dbf00640cb2/$FILE/AC20-27F.pdf it says: "d. Designing the Cockpit/Cabin. When you design the cockpit or cabin, you should do the following:" -------- snip --------- "(2) Install FAA TSO-approved seatbelts and shoulder harnesses. ..." Note that it says "...you should..." not that you must. I am trying to find in the regulations and FAA orders where it says that you MUST have seatbelts in an amateur built experimental aircraft . I do not know any DARs or FAA inspectors that will put their name on the Special Airworthiness Certificate pink slip (FAA Form 8130-7) on any amateur bult aircraft that does not have seat belts. If you find the FAA REQUIREMENT that says you MUST have seatbelts in an amateur built experimental, please post it to the list. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,962 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://www.rvdar.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "kenneth hill" Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very much. I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff. However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from Van's, were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would have to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has anyone else run into this? I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable." Do I make the government happy and maybe avoid problems down the road by changing them or continue with what I have installed? Ken Hill Plainfield, IN. _________________________________________________________________ Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and morethen map the best route! http://local.live.com?FORM=MGA001