Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:21 AM - Re: plastic covering (Dale Ensing)
2. 08:01 AM - Re: FAA seat belt requirement (Bob J.)
3. 09:01 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Tim Bryan)
4. 09:08 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 09:38 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Tim Bryan)
6. 09:42 AM - Re: RV10-List: Accidents in RVs (ivo welch)
7. 09:48 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Ed Holyoke)
8. 10:09 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Tom Gummo)
9. 10:40 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Hopperdhh@AOL.COM)
10. 11:17 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Phil Birkelbach)
11. 11:34 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Walter Tondu)
12. 11:40 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Tim Bryan)
13. 11:55 AM - Re: 1st time engine start (Tim Bryan)
14. 01:01 PM - Re: 1st time engine start (Ron Lee)
15. 02:51 PM - Re: 1st time engine start (Tim Bryan)
16. 03:42 PM - I am in Orlando, need some one to fly my rv6a to new airport (Robert Murillo)
17. 04:27 PM - Re: 1st time engine start (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
18. 04:30 PM - Reducing CHT (Ron Lee)
19. 05:10 PM - Dick in Covington Ga brake problem (Charles Heathco)
20. 05:31 PM - Re: Timing Lightspeed (dick martin)
21. 05:38 PM - Re: Reducing CHT (Tim Bryan)
22. 06:15 PM - Re: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement (Bill Schlatterer)
23. 06:34 PM - Re: Reducing CHT (Ron Lee)
24. 08:13 PM - First engine run (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
25. 09:33 PM - Re: test (Bob 1)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:plastic covering |
Bill, Note of caution. FWIW I too live in North Carolina. When I
removed the plastic from my panel blank piece after about four years I
found corrosion under the plastic.
"I've just finished my horizontal and will probably hang it on the
wall until time
to nail it to the fuselage. I have seen / read where people have
said not
to leave the plastic on the skins "too long" as it will become
difficult to remove.
How long is "too long"? My build shop is not temperature
controlled, I
live in North Carolina, & it will probably take me a few years to
finish. And
if it is left on too long, how do you get it off?"
Thanks,
Bill Settle.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: FAA seat belt requirement |
I was told by an FAA FSDO inspector that he could not deny an airworthiness
certificate based on the construction of the aircraft. To paraphrase, he
said that as an experimental aircraft builder I have the perogative to test
materials, components, construction techniques, etc. If I want to test a
bolt to see how quickly it could fail in flight, that is my perogative as an
experimental aircraft builder. These were his words, not mine. I can't
imagine why seat belts would be any different than using non-certified grade
10 bolts to secure them to the airframe, as an example. One could easily
argue that grade 10 bolts have much higher tensile strength compared to an
AN bolt... and unless you have the paperwork for each bolt in your airplane
how could you positively identify AN bolts...they could be counterfeited.
This is one of those things that it all depends on who you talk to at the
FAA. What I would tell the inspector, in a friendly way, is to have him
show you where it says that the seatbelts *must* be TSO'ed... The question
should end right there because he won't be able to.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 10/23/06, Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> No, No, No...it does not depend on the inspector. The inspector is WRONG
> if he says it has to be TSO'd. This has been hashed out many times with
> respect to IFR equipment requirements, that it has to be TSO'd in an
> experimental. There is not one thing on the aircraft that has to be TSO'd.
> Go find another inspector. Van's has sold thousands of seatbelts I'm sure,
> and it has never been a problem as far as I know.
>
> Das Fed, you out there? You can clarify this, I'm sure.
>
> Paul Besing
>
> *John Porter <december29@bellsouth.net>* wrote:
>
> Yep,
> I have the same concerns as mine hasn't been inspected yet. I purchased
> two sets of 5 pt harnesses from Simpson that are super strong and certified
> for NASCAR. I'm hoping to not have a problem, I guess it depends on the
> inspector.
>
> John
> 80002
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* kenneth hill <khill5@indy.rr.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:21 AM
> *Subject:* RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
>
> The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very
> much. I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff.
> However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from Van's,
> were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would have
> to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has anyone
> else run into this? I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an
> experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable." Do I
> make the government happy and maybe avoid problems down the road by changing
> them or continue with what I have installed?
>
> Ken Hill
> Plainfield, IN.
>
> *You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | 1st time engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:28 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>=== Snip ==========
> As far as what the magic temperature is... I dunno but I'd guess it to
> be around 200 deg for the CHT's. You should be able to test or adjust
> just about anything you need to before the temps get that high.
>
> === Snip =======
200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running easily
over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is always
the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even out
(except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling mods to
try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and not
really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle in
front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Tim
RV-6
Flying 23 hours now including a reposition to Texas. What fun!
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
Tim,
I would try to find out what the problem is. Check timing, mixture, baffling
especially the exit area. Do you have inter-cylinder baffles in place? My
CHTs run in the low to mid 300s in cruise flight. For example, 325, 337, etc.
Only on a long climb would it approach 400, and that is on a very hot day.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 10/24/2006 12:03:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running easily
over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is always
the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even out
(except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling mods to
try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and not
really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle in
front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Tim
RV-6
Flying 23 hours now including a reposition to Texas. What fun!
Message 5
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| Subject: | 1st time engine start |
Wow, that would be nice. Inter cylinder baffles are in place, mixture seems
to be good, but timing I haven't checked.
Thanks for your comments
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
Tim,
I would try to find out what the problem is. Check timing, mixture,
baffling especially the exit area. Do you have inter-cylinder baffles in
place? My CHTs run in the low to mid 300s in cruise flight. For example,
325, 337, etc. Only on a long climb would it approach 400, and that is on a
very hot day.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 10/24/2006 12:03:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running easily
over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is always
the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even out
(except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling mods to
try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and not
really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle in
front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Tim
RV-6
Flying 23 hours now including a reposition to Texas. What fun!
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List: Accidents in RVs |
--> RV-List message posted by: ivo welch <ivowel@gmail.com>
I don't think stall speed per se has that much to do with benign
handling and accident characteristics, although it does correlate with
what seems to matter. what seems important to me is the effort that it
takes for the pilot to get an airplane stall, how much warning the plane
gives, and how it behaves in a stall. for the really adventurous,
getting an airplane into a spin and spin recovery can be added to this.
like the RV-9, the RV-10 is very, very benign. it takes a long time to
slow the plane down into a power-off stall, it is absolutely impossible
to overlook getting close to stall, the plane can dawdle along at stall
speed just fine, and stall recovery seems like less than 50' vertical
loss. accelerated stalls are not that different in behavior. I don't
have the chuzbe to try to spin the plane. (Chicken!).
I learned to fly in a cherokee 160. I think the RV-9 and RV-10 are, if
anything, more benign---and this is definitely an amazing feat. the
reason is that in the cherokee, the panel is so high, it is not that
obvious that your nose is pointing to the sky. with the better
visibility in the RV, it becomes all the more obvious that your nose is
pointing straight up now which is required to stall the plane. actual
behavior of the airplane while approaching a stall and during a stall
feels similar.
Other things are of course easier in a cherokee. the cherokee is a
flying truck. it will keep and hit its low airspeed and altitude
better, but only because it is less "air-slippery." that is, in an RV-9
or RV-10, a thermal can make you gain 100' in altitude in no time. its
almost sail-plane like. (this applied more to the RV-9 than the RV-10,
but even the RV-10 is still more aerodynamic than the piper.) slowing
down to the target speed is not as instant, either. this is not a
safety issue, but if you want to fly by the numbers for IFR purposes, it
requires more concentration and patience. and then there is the ground
handling, which is not as easy for beginners---something RVs share with
Cirrus and a lot of other airplanes (especially in cross-wind landings,
where the castoring front wheel wants to not point straight). the
piper's bigger wheels, shock absorbers, greater distance between wheels,
and nose-wheel steering would be nice to have. I have never had a
problem with it, but I am always a little unhappy with my cross-wind
landings. It can't do it with the same smoothness I could do it with in
the piper.
personally, I think a well-built Vans RV-9 or RV-10 is the safest
single-prop aircraft in the sky today.
regards,
/ivo
http://welch.econ.brown.edu/n325hp/
Message 7
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| Subject: | 1st time engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Tim,
I think he's referring to ground running temps below 200 and shut down
before it gets hotter.
A dam in front of #1 helped a little on our plane, but what really did
it was to make a little more space for air to flow behind #3. The fins
on the head are very shallow in the back and, with the baffle tight up
against it, not enough air gets through that area.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
> === Snip =======
200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running
easily
over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is
always
the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even
out
(except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling
mods to
try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and
not
really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle
in
front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Tim
RV-6
Flying 23 hours now including a reposition to Texas. What fun!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
My RMI reads in degrees "C".
200 C = 392 F
If you are talking temperatures, you might want to include which type
you are talking about.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
Tim,
I would try to find out what the problem is. Check timing, mixture,
baffling especially the exit area. Do you have inter-cylinder baffles
in place? My CHTs run in the low to mid 300s in cruise flight. For
example, 325, 337, etc. Only on a long climb would it approach 400, and
that is on a very hot day.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 10/24/2006 12:03:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been
running easily
over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is
always
the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will
even out
(except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling
mods to
try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight
and not
really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin
heat
above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a
angle in
front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Tim
RV-6
Flying 23 hours now including a reposition to Texas. What fun!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
Hi Tom,
You are correct. I was speaking in degrees Fahrenheit.
Lycoming lists 500 deg F as the maximum during run-in so, Tim, I don't think
you have hurt it any. But, there must be a reason you are seeing what I think
are pretty high temps. Was this on a hot day? Are you sure that your gauge
is calibrated?
A while back someone mentioned flashing on the fins causing high CHTs.
Dan
Do not archive
In a message dated 10/24/2006 1:12:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
T.gummo@verizon.net writes:
My RMI reads in degrees "C".
200 C = 392 F
If you are talking temperatures, you might want to include which type you are
talking about.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
Tim,
I would try to find out what the problem is. Check timing, mixture, baffling
especially the exit area. Do you have inter-cylinder baffles in place? My
CHTs run in the low to mid 300s in cruise flight. For example, 325, 337, etc.
Only on a long climb would it approach 400, and that is on a very hot day.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 10/24/2006 12:03:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running easily
over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is always
the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even out
(except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling mods to
try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and not
really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle in
front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Tim
RV-6
Flying 23 hours now including a reposition to Texas. What fun!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
We were talking about ground running temperatures of new engines that
had not yet been "broken in". I was also guessing.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Tim Bryan wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
>> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:28 AM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>>
>> === Snip ==========
>> As far as what the magic temperature is... I dunno but I'd guess it to
>> be around 200 deg for the CHT's. You should be able to test or adjust
>> just about anything you need to before the temps get that high.
>>
>> === Snip =======
>>
>
>
> 200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running easily
> over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is always
> the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even out
> (except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling mods to
> try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and not
> really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
> above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle in
> front of it to deflect some air to the back.
>
> Tim
> RV-6
> Flying 23 hours now including a reposition to Texas. What fun!
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 10/24 9:00, Tim Bryan wrote:
> 200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running easily
> over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is always
> the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even out
> (except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling mods to
> try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and not
> really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
> above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle in
> front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Hi Tim,
I had high CHT temps as well but did find the fix. Air was flowing
out the front center of the baffles and running through the inlet
ramp and out into the lower pressure area outside the baffles.
Fiberglassing the hole closed on the inside opening solved the problem.
I documented the fix here: Note the poll results.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8209
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
Message 12
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| Subject: | 1st time engine start |
I wouldn't call these hot days. Temps in the 70's on the ground. The
temperatures climb right away on climb out at 110MPH but levels out to
around 418 in cruise. I don't think my Vision Microsystems VM1000 has any
calibration for the CHT or EGT. Anything above 400 however shows up as in
the yellow range.
As soon as I get back down to Texas I will see if I can do some things to
help it out. I will be flying in hot weather.
Thanks
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
Hi Tom,
You are correct. I was speaking in degrees Fahrenheit.
Lycoming lists 500 deg F as the maximum during run-in so, Tim, I don't think
you have hurt it any. But, there must be a reason you are seeing what I
think are pretty high temps. Was this on a hot day? Are you sure that your
gauge is calibrated?
A while back someone mentioned flashing on the fins causing high CHTs.
Dan
Do not archive
In a message dated 10/24/2006 1:12:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
T.gummo@verizon.net writes:
My RMI reads in degrees "C".
200 C = 392 F
If you are talking temperatures, you might want to include which type you
are talking about.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
Tim,
I would try to find out what the problem is. Check timing, mixture,
baffling especially the exit area. Do you have inter-cylinder baffles in
place? My CHTs run in the low to mid 300s in cruise flight. For example,
325, 337, etc. Only on a long climb would it approach 400, and that is on a
very hot day.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 10/24/2006 12:03:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running easily
over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is always
the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even out
(except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling mods to
try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and not
really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle in
front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Tim
RV-6
Flying 23 hours now including a reposition to Texas. What fun!
Message 13
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| Subject: | 1st time engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Walter,
This is great information. I have been concerned about this area, but
didn't believe it could cause this problem. I would think once the air is
through the inlets and inside the upper cowl it wouldn't be a problem. I
may have not used good thinking. I will be sure to check this area and make
sure I have closed up all gaps.
I have been given lots of ideas from this list regarding solving this
problem. Now I just need to get back to my plane so I can work on solving
it. Boy I will enjoy the cooler temps when I get them.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:32 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> On 10/24 9:00, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> > 200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running
> easily
> > over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is
> always
> > the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even
> out
> > (except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling
> mods to
> > try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight
> and not
> > really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
> > above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle
> in
> > front of it to deflect some air to the back.
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> I had high CHT temps as well but did find the fix. Air was flowing
> out the front center of the baffles and running through the inlet
> ramp and out into the lower pressure area outside the baffles.
> Fiberglassing the hole closed on the inside opening solved the problem.
>
> I documented the fix here: Note the poll results.
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8209
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
> http://www.evorocket.com - Building
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | 1st time engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
I solved my CHT problem by improving the exit air side.
Ron Lee
Message 15
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| Subject: | 1st time engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Can you elaborate on this? What did you do?
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 1:00 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 1st time engine start
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
> I solved my CHT problem by improving the exit air side.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | I am in Orlando, need some one to fly my rv6a to new airport |
Hi:
I need help, in flying my rv6a, to another airport. If some one is near
Orlando, and could help, let me have your phone number, and I will
explain my situation..
Thanks,
bert
rv6a
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
Walter and Tim,
I solved that leak by running the side baffles clear to the front and top of
the cowl. That is, the baffling seals to the top of the cowl outside of the
ramps. I have to reach in and guide the baffle seal outside of the ramps when
I install the upper cowl. This was the natural thing to do with my 200HP
angle valve installation which, I think, may fill up the front of the cowl more
than an O320 does -- not sure about this, though. I did, however, make special
vertical fiberglass pieces that seal the inboard ends of the upper inlets to
the engine baffles.
This has been an interesting thread. It is amazing to me that the amount of
cooling air is optimized so well. What a great design. Vans deserves a lot
of credit, which we are constantly giving them!
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A -- Back flying with new nose gear, etc., etc.
In a message dated 10/24/2006 2:36:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
walter@tondu.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
On 10/24 9:00, Tim Bryan wrote:
> 200! I can't get anywhere close to that. My CHT's have been running easily
> over 400. Yes, I am concerned, but what can I do. My number 3 is always
> the hottest and has been over 450 at times. Typically they will even out
> (except number 1) to around 418-430. I am going to do some baffling mods to
> try to warm up number 1 and cool number 3, but they are pretty tight and not
> really any leaks to speak of. Number 3 has a outlet for the cabin heat
> above it - so I will block part of that off. Number 1 will get a angle in
> front of it to deflect some air to the back.
Hi Tim,
I had high CHT temps as well but did find the fix. Air was flowing
out the front center of the baffles and running through the inlet
ramp and out into the lower pressure area outside the baffles.
Fiberglassing the hole closed on the inside opening solved the problem.
I documented the fix here: Note the poll results.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8209
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>Can you elaborate on this? What did you do?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
> >
> > I solved my CHT problem by improving the exit air side.
> >
> > Ron Lee
> >
Removed excess heater tubes in cowl.
Opened the lower cowl around the exhaust.
Added louvers to increase exit air
See pic for the last two.
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Cowl_Louver_Small.jpg
Ron Lee
Message 19
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| Subject: | Dick in Covington Ga brake problem |
Billy you on here? Would like to know what was found for sure re left
brake grabing, was it the return problem for sure? Charlie Heathco
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Mark,
When I installed my lightspeed 5 years ago, I did the same as you and it
worked. However after talking to Klaus S at OSH that year, I realized while
it worked ok, I was missing some of the extra performance available. I then
got out the instructions and borrowed my sons timing light for his race car
and reset the Ignition per instructions and realize a significant increase
in overall performance ie. more power, etc.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark E Navratil" <czechsix@juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark E Navratil <czechsix@juno.com>
>
> I'm curious, has anyone actually found that the Lightspeed timing was
> off, and if so, did you discover any reason for the inaccuracy? I have
> dual Lightspeeds with the crank trigger pickups and I admit I did not
> check the timing with a light. I did verify that the magnets were
> installed in the flywheel and the pickup bracket was correctly aligned
> per Lightspeed instructions. After 100 hrs in flight, no problems with
> anything. But that doesn't guarantee the timing is right so maybe I need
> to check it??
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D with 100 hrs of huge grins...
>
>
> Time: 05:28:02 AM PST US
> From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
>
> Charles,
> I'm with Phil on this. Using a timing light is the ultimate for
> timing accuracy. I generally sit on the right wing while checking the
> timing with the engine running. This works well when done in low
> light, such as at dusk. As Phil mentions, adjustments are made with
> the engine off.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>>
>>It'd be pretty stupid to try to get a timing light to work with the
>>engine stopped.
>>
>>Nobody would try to adjust the timing with the engine running, you
>>simply check it. If it's not quite right then stop the engine, make
>>an adjustment and retry. This is the suggested method in the
>>Lightspeed documentation.
>>
>>You don't stand any closer to the prop than the firewall. If you
>>don't feel comfortable doing that then don't do it, but I assure you
>>that I am not nuts.
>>
>>Phil
>>
>>On Oct 19, 2006, at 18:20, Charles Reiche wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Reiche
>>><charlieray@optonline.net>
>>>
>>>Are you suggesting that you are timing your engine using a timing
>>>light and while running? If so, you're nuts.
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Birkelbach"
>>><phil@petrasoft.net>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:02 PM
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>>>>
>>>>I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine.
>>>>Just hold it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the
>>>>flywheel. Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get
>>>>to that spinning prop. Worked for me.
>>>>
>>>>Godspeed,
>>>>
>>>>Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>>>>RV-7 N727WB
>>>>http://www.myrv7.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
>>>>><ghinman@mts.net>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>>>>>an O-360
>>>>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by
>>>>>using
>>>>>a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>>>>>the flywheel.
>>>>> The problem is that the front baffle is in
>>>>>the way.
>>>>>Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>>>>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>>>>>flywheel attached!!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Hi Ron,
Looks like there is less exit air space with the nosewheel (no dig intended)
due to the nose wheel fairing/ apparatus. Is this part of the reason? The
louvers look great. I may need to look at what pipes etc I have placed in
the exit air path. Lord knows there plenty of room back there for
everything we need plus our arms and wrenches. I made a terrible mess just
trying to change my oil filter.
Thanks
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 4:29 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Reducing CHT
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
>
> >Can you elaborate on this? What did you do?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
> > >
> > > I solved my CHT problem by improving the exit air side.
> > >
> > > Ron Lee
> > >
>
>
> Removed excess heater tubes in cowl.
>
> Opened the lower cowl around the exhaust.
>
> Added louvers to increase exit air
>
> See pic for the last two.
>
> http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Cowl_Louver_Small.jpg
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Also see Page 1 Section 1b same Circular "1b This AC is not mandatory and
does not constitute a regulation...."
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Emrath
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
The wording of this Advisory Circular, which does not carrry the full weight
of the FARs states that you "should" not "must" install TSO seat belts.
Marty RV-6A Wiring
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Ken:
Read AC 20-27E section 7 d (2). (its on page 4)
http://members.eaa.org/home/govt/rules/ac20-27e.pdf
or
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular
.nsf/0/0ca2845e2aafffbb86256dbf00640cb2/$FILE/AC20-27F.pdf
it says:
"d. Designing the Cockpit/Cabin. When you design the cockpit or cabin,
you
should do the
following:"
-------- snip ---------
"(2) Install FAA TSO-approved seatbelts and shoulder harnesses. ..."
Note that it says "...you should..." not that you must.
I am trying to find in the regulations and FAA orders where it says
that you
MUST have seatbelts in an amateur built experimental aircraft . I do
not
know any DARs or FAA inspectors that will put their name on the
Special
Airworthiness Certificate pink slip (FAA Form 8130-7) on any amateur
bult
aircraft that does not have seat belts.
If you find the FAA REQUIREMENT that says you MUST have seatbelts in
an
amateur built experimental, please post it to the list.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,962 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://www.rvdar.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "kenneth hill" <khill5@indy.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very
much.
I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff.
However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from
Van's,
were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would
have
to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has
anyone
else run into this? I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an
experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable."
Do I
make the government happy and maybe avoid problems down the road by
changing
them or continue with what I have installed?
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN.
_________________________________________________________________
Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and morethen map the
best
route! http://local.live.com?FORM=MGA001
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>Looks like there is less exit air space with the nosewheel (no dig intended)
>due to the nose wheel fairing/ apparatus. Is this part of the reason? The
>louvers look great.
Possibly but unless most 6A nose gear pilots complained of high
CHT and oil temps I would say that my problem was because of
my configuration of everything in the engine compartment. Anything
that disrupts the smooth flow of air out the cowl minimizes cooling.
So upon the advice of another pilot I made those changes and it
helped tremendously.
Ron Lee
Message 24
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| Subject: | First engine run |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Thanks for the info Phil, I too am coming up on first engine start and this
is a comforting thought. I was concerned about break-in and not running on
the ground too long. But....I was also concerned that although my airpark
has a nice 4000 foot long runway it's only 50 feet wide and the entire area
is surrounded by trees. I'm gonna print out your experience and paste it on
the hangar wall. That way I'll be sure to have the engine running like a
top before I fly!
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finishing the wiring.
--------------original message---------------------------
>From: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st time engine start
>By ignoring those that said "run it once on the ground and then fly it
>hard" I managed to both survive and have a fine running engine. :-)
Message 25
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OK.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 9:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: test
do not archive
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