Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:33 AM - Re: Impulse mag top/bottom (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
2. 05:38 AM - Re: Impulse mag top/bottom (Tim Olson)
3. 05:48 AM - Re: Impulse mag top/bottom (bertrv6@highstream.net)
4. 05:53 AM - Re: control sticks (bertrv6@highstream.net)
5. 06:11 AM - Re: Impulse mag top/bottom (Chuck Jensen)
6. 06:30 AM - Re: Impulse mag top/bottom (Dana Overall)
7. 06:31 AM - Re: Impulse mag top/bottom (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
8. 07:23 AM - Re: Impulse mag top/bottom (Ron Lee)
9. 08:41 AM - GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) (PIAVIS)
10. 10:31 AM - Re: home paint booth ventilation (NYTOM)
11. 11:04 AM - 0-360 kit $11,500 (Dana Overall)
12. 11:30 AM - Re: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) (G McNutt)
13. 03:27 PM - Stewart Systems waterborne urethane (sarg314)
14. 05:00 PM - Re: control sticks (bertrv6@highstream.net)
15. 06:06 PM - Re: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement (Mike Robertson)
16. 06:15 PM - DuPont rivits (William Davis)
17. 06:44 PM - Re: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane (glaesers)
18. 07:12 PM - 1990 RV-4 kit cost (bruce breckenridge)
19. 08:09 PM - Re: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement (Jerry Springer)
20. 10:22 PM - Exhaust nut torque? (Bobby Hester)
21. 10:42 PM - Re: Re: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag top/bottom |
In a message dated 10/28/2006 1:06:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bobbyhester@charter.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
Dana, I installed my system per the directions from Lightspeed. LH Mag
supplies the bottom plugs and RH Electronic Ign. supplies the top auto
type plugs. I'm sure you will find that anyone using the lightspeed
system on only one side has done this.
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Dana Overall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> OK, I've seen/heard/read/dreamed (stretching it there:-) about putting
> the impulse mag harness on the top plugs only with the right mag
> (looking at it from the the rear of the engine) on the bottom only.
> Obviously, the harnesses are marked T4, T2, B3, B1 and B4, B2, T3, T1.
> Put them is this orientation, the arguement is you get a more
> consistantly close drop between left and right. The assumption; the
> bottom plugs are more likely to get oil fouled due to gravity.
>
> Current pros, cons to harness indicated orientation or top/bottom only???
>
> Just food for thought after looking at a one mag/electronic setup
> where the builder did the electronic on top plugs only and mag on
> bottom plugs only.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
> do not archive
===========================================================
Group:
My feelings on which system and where are as follows:
MAG - On TOP : CDI - On BOTTOM - Why?
Mags do not put out as much angary as a CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition).
Top Plugs tend to stay cleaner than bottom plugs.
Bottom Plugs are susceptible to Oil Fouling.
By putting the Mag on top there is better chance of getting a clean plug and
a good spark for starting.
By putting the CDI on the bottom the hotter spark will have a better chance
of burning through any oil and carbon formed by the oil.
With the CDI on the bottom a larger gap can be set on the plugs which means a
less chance of lead fouling. If you are one that uses AvGas.
With the CDI on the bottom you will have access to the lower plugs much
easier than the top and that means you can PLAY with the heat range, gap and
manufactures swapping of plugs much easier.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag top/bottom |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Same here, mine are Lightspeed top, and Mags bottom. Engine runs
great....better than I imagined. There are tons of systems
with lightspeeds set up this way. I'd say, if you use 2 mags,
do it the way the mag manufacturer says. If you use EI, then
do it the way your EI manufacturer says. It's not worth the
mental cycles rethinking it, because there's enough evidence
that what's being suggest does indeed work well.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bobby Hester wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
>
> Dana, I installed my system per the directions from Lightspeed. LH Mag
> supplies the bottom plugs and RH Electronic Ign. supplies the top auto
> type plugs. I'm sure you will find that anyone using the lightspeed
> system on only one side has done this.
>
> ------
> Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>
>
>
> Dana Overall wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>>
>> OK, I've seen/heard/read/dreamed (stretching it there:-) about putting
>> the impulse mag harness on the top plugs only with the right mag
>> (looking at it from the the rear of the engine) on the bottom only.
>> Obviously, the harnesses are marked T4, T2, B3, B1 and B4, B2, T3, T1.
>> Put them is this orientation, the arguement is you get a more
>> consistantly close drop between left and right. The assumption; the
>> bottom plugs are more likely to get oil fouled due to gravity.
>>
>> Current pros, cons to harness indicated orientation or top/bottom only???
>>
>> Just food for thought after looking at a one mag/electronic setup
>> where the builder did the electronic on top plugs only and mag on
>> bottom plugs only.
>>
>> Dana Overall
>> Richmond, KY i39
>> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>> O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
>> http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
>> do not archive
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Use your PC to make calls at very low rates
>> https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag top/bottom |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Kyle Boatright <kboatright1@comcast.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
> I put the plugs fired from my electronic ignition on the top and the mag
> fired plugs on the bottom. My reasoning was that the EI plug wires attach
> with friction and by installing 'em on the top plugs, gravity was working in
> my favor as opposed to against me. Also, my assumption is/was that if the
> EI driven stuff was on top, it would be easier to visually inspect.
>
> In 425 hours, I have not fouled a plug on either system.
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 9:23 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Impulse mag top/bottom
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> > OK, I've seen/heard/read/dreamed (stretching it there:-) about putting the
> > impulse mag harness on the top plugs only with the right mag (looking at
> > it from the the rear of the engine) on the bottom only. Obviously, the
> > harnesses are marked T4, T2, B3, B1 and B4, B2, T3, T1. Put them is this
> > orientation, the arguement is you get a more consistantly close drop
> > between left and right. The assumption; the bottom plugs are more likely
> > to get oil fouled due to gravity.
> >
> > Current pros, cons to harness indicated orientation or top/bottom only???
> >
> > Just food for thought after looking at a one mag/electronic setup where
> > the builder did the electronic on top plugs only and mag on bottom plugs
> > only.
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY i39
> > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> > O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
> > http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
> > do not archive
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Use your PC to make calls at very low rates
> > https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx
> >
> >
> > I do not know anything about this, but doesn't the system comes
with Instructions, how to connect? IF IT DOES, WHY THE DOUBTS
AND QUESTIONS/ Just curious?
Bert
> >
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> I believe Ray Allen bought all of MAC's assets.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> bertrv6@highstream.net
> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 5:21 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: control sticks
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
>
> I have tried to contact the company Menzimer Aircraft (Mac) but the
> phone is not working.
>
> Is this company now, Ray Allen? if so any one has the PHone number,
> or Email Adress?
>
> I want to buy one of the G5 sticks....
>
>
> Would like to compare prices, with them directly and thru other
> suppliers..
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> do nopt archive
>
>
> Mike: Thanks, but do you have their phone number or E-Mail address?
Thanks. I tried to get into the internet, could not find them..
Bert
rv6a
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Impulse mag top/bottom |
Barry,
I understand your philosophy of putting the most robust system on the
bottom where it is better equipped to withstand the harsher operating
environ. However, a counter philosophy is to put the Mag on the bottom.
It's known to be less tolerate of oil and lead fouling and will act as
an early warning system if there is a problem starting to develop.
Should the lower mag plugs start to foul, you'll still have a wide
margin for continued operation of the upper CDI plugs before they start
to degrade also.
I guess that's why the put the canary deep in the mine instead of in the
break room. The weakest link serves as the earliest warning system when
put at most risk. Just a thought.
Chuck Jensen
Group:
My feelings on which system and where are as follows:
MAG - On TOP : CDI - On BOTTOM - Why?
Mags do not put out as much angary as a CDI (Capacitive Discharge
Ignition).
Top Plugs tend to stay cleaner than bottom plugs.
Bottom Plugs are susceptible to Oil Fouling.
By putting the Mag on top there is better chance of getting a clean plug
and a good spark for starting.
By putting the CDI on the bottom the hotter spark will have a better
chance of burning through any oil and carbon formed by the oil.
With the CDI on the bottom a larger gap can be set on the plugs which
means a less chance of lead fouling. If you are one that uses AvGas.
With the CDI on the bottom you will have access to the lower plugs much
easier than the top and that means you can PLAY with the heat range, gap
and manufactures swapping of plugs much easier.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag top/bottom |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> > I do not know anything about this, but doesn't the system comes
with Instructions, how to connect? IF IT DOES, WHY THE DOUBTS
AND QUESTIONS/ Just curious?
Bert
Bert, the reason being there are people out there who support the
installation of the impulse mag on the top plugs and right mag on bottom.
Their reasoning is ease of starting due to cleaner top plugs. Just a
thought I had while installing mine per instructions....................it
happens occasionally:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
>From: bertrv6@highstream.net
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Impulse mag top/bottom
>Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2006 08:48:06 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>Quoting Kyle Boatright <kboatright1@comcast.net>:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
><kboatright1@comcast.net>
> >
> > I put the plugs fired from my electronic ignition on the top and the mag
> > fired plugs on the bottom. My reasoning was that the EI plug wires
>attach
> > with friction and by installing 'em on the top plugs, gravity was
>working in
> > my favor as opposed to against me. Also, my assumption is/was that if
>the
> > EI driven stuff was on top, it would be easier to visually inspect.
> >
> > In 425 hours, I have not fouled a plug on either system.
> >
> > KB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 9:23 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Impulse mag top/bottom
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> > >
> > > OK, I've seen/heard/read/dreamed (stretching it there:-) about putting
>the
> > > impulse mag harness on the top plugs only with the right mag (looking
>at
> > > it from the the rear of the engine) on the bottom only. Obviously, the
> > > harnesses are marked T4, T2, B3, B1 and B4, B2, T3, T1. Put them is
>this
> > > orientation, the arguement is you get a more consistantly close drop
> > > between left and right. The assumption; the bottom plugs are more
>likely
> > > to get oil fouled due to gravity.
> > >
> > > Current pros, cons to harness indicated orientation or top/bottom
>only???
> > >
> > > Just food for thought after looking at a one mag/electronic setup
>where
> > > the builder did the electronic on top plugs only and mag on bottom
>plugs
> > > only.
> > >
> > > Dana Overall
> > > Richmond, KY i39
> > > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> > > O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
> > > http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Use your PC to make calls at very low rates
> > > https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx
> > >
> > >
> > > I do not know anything about this, but doesn't the system comes
> with Instructions, how to connect? IF IT DOES, WHY THE DOUBTS
> AND QUESTIONS/ Just curious?
>
> Bert
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag top/bottom |
Hi Chuck:
I can also understand your approach. My only issue is that I don't want to
find that dead canary when I am at an away AP, without any tools and cranking
away, draining the battery ... Trying to get the engine to fire.
I have the Bottom CDI system in the RV-6 and the engine purrs. Not because
if where the CDI & Mag are mounted but because it started. ;-)
SURE it will work the other way but I just felt this was a better option.
Hey, just for S&Gs one method of wiring from Lycoming is to split the
harness. Half of the Left Mag supplies two upper and two lower and the same is
true
for the right Mag. That also helps ballance things out when you consider a
failure mode.
Barry
=======================================
Barry,
I understand your philosophy of putting the most robust system on the bottom
where it is better equipped to withstand the harsher operating environ.
However, a counter philosophy is to put the Mag on the bottom. It's known to be
less tolerate of oil and lead fouling and will act as an early warning system if
there is a problem starting to develop. Should the lower mag plugs start to
foul, you'll still have a wide margin for continued operation of the upper CDI
plugs before they start to degrade also.
I guess that's why the put the canary deep in the mine instead of in the
break room. The weakest link serves as the earliest warning system when put at
most risk. Just a thought.
Chuck Jensen
Group:
My feelings on which system and where are as follows:
MAG - On TOP : CDI - On BOTTOM - Why?
Mags do not put out as much angary as a CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition).
Top Plugs tend to stay cleaner than bottom plugs.
Bottom Plugs are susceptible to Oil Fouling.
By putting the Mag on top there is better chance of getting a clean plug and
a good spark for starting.
By putting the CDI on the bottom the hotter spark will have a better chance
of burning through any oil and carbon formed by the oil.
With the CDI on the bottom a larger gap can be set on the plugs which means a
less chance of lead fouling. If you are one that uses AvGas.
With the CDI on the bottom you will have access to the lower plugs much
easier than the top and that means you can PLAY with the heat range, gap and
manufactures swapping of plugs much easier.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse mag top/bottom |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
I have my impulse mag on the bottom plugs...EI on the top.
Perhaps 800 hours with maybe three cases of a fouled plug
that did clear without removing the plug. Proper leaning while
taxiing will go a long way to preventing fouled plugs.
Ron Lee
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) |
For those that know the ins and outs of avionics, I have a good question.
Last week I posted a question about my GTX 327 to Matronics, as the
transponder wouldn't slide completely into the tray and lock. The lower edge
of the tray was in contact with the aft lower face of the unit. Along the
back lower face of the bezel, there appears to be two slots where the tray
tongs would slide in. That's fine and that's what it looks like in the GTX
327 install manual.
The manual calls out Garmin p/n 115-00285-00 as referenced in the install
manual (figure B2). The problem is that I have p/n 115-00431-00 (as stamped
on the tray) and doesn't look like the referenced illustration. Are these
trays supposed to be interchangable? I did find a reference to that p/n on
the web through Avionics Now which indicated that the 004341 unit was good
for 320A/ 327, but even the tray they show does not look like what I have.
This link http://adap.com/rv7/images/P3110032.JPG (lower right in the pic)
shows the bottom of my tray and seems to be a bit different than the install
manual.
Thanks,
Jim
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: home paint booth ventilation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "NYTOM" <nords@nycap.rr.com>
For what its worth, I painted an Ercoupe in my garage a few years ago and was pleasantly
surprised to fine a lot of the over-spray actually stuck to the clear
plastic I stapled up and made clean up much easier. Also I placed all of my
temporary lighting outside the plastic and it worked great for getting the needed
reflection to avoid runs and insure a good final wet coat.
NYTOM
RV-6A N822PM (res)
Still pounding & hope to be painting again soon.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70732#70732
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | 0-360 kit $11,500 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
One last run at providing the RV crowd with an engine alternative....and
time to send Doug some money. My profession is going to dictate a lot more
work in the office the next two months, then nose to the grindstone until
April 15th. I was able to buy some additional parts, when I accumulated
parts for the previous kit, so here is a good one:
You can see all the at:
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id36.html (sitting on my living room floor)
CRANK (hollow)-YELLOW TAGGED
CASE-RECONDITIONED, CURRENTLY AT DIVCO
CASE THROUGH BOLTS-NEW
RODS-RE-CONDITIONED BALANCED WITHIN 2 GRAMS WITH NEW NUTS
ROCKER ARMS- RE-BUSHED
CAM-TAGGED
CRANK GEAR AND BOLT-NEW
IDLER/TIMING GEARS
LIFTER BODIES-NEW
HYD & SOCKETS-NEW
IMPULSE MAG -NEW
NON IMPULSE HAG - NEW
WIRING HARNESS - NEW
SPARK PLUGS- NEW
MAG GEARS BOTH IMPULSE & NON IMPULSE-NEW
CYLINDERS/PISTONS/PINS/RINGS-CERTIFIED WITH NEW PARTS. PISTONS 9:5:1
CYLINDER HOLD DOWN NUTS-NEW
SUMP & PIPES
ACC. COVER
OIL PUMP HOUSING AND GEARS-NEW
PUSH TUBES-NEW
PUSH RODS-NEW
STARTER-NEW
ALTERNATOR-NEW
FLYWHEEL-NEW
TACH SHAFT-NEW
CARB-CORE
HARDWARE BOLT KIT-NEW
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) |
--> RV-List message posted by: G McNutt <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Jim
Not sure if this is relevant, but I was watching a buddy re-install his
GTX 327 and having a hard time getting it to seat. He had to loosen the
connector screws at back of box and let the connector reposition itself
before unit would slide in. Took several tries.
George in Langley BC
6A flying 7A finishing
PIAVIS wrote:
>
> For those that know the ins and outs of avionics, I have a good
> question. Last week I posted a question about my GTX 327 to Matronics,
> as the transponder wouldnt slide completely into the tray and lock.
> The lower edge of the tray was in contact with the aft lower face of
> the unit. Along the back lower face of the bezel, there appears to be
> two slots where the tray tongs would slide in. Thats fine and thats
> what it looks like in the GTX 327 install manual.
>
> The manual calls out Garmin p/n 115-00285-00 as referenced in the
> install manual (figure B2). The problem is that I have p/n
> 115-00431-00 (as stamped on the tray) and doesnt look like the
> referenced illustration. Are these trays supposed to be
> interchangable? I did find a reference to that p/n on the web through
> Avionics Now which indicated that the 004341 unit was good for 320A/
> 327, but even the tray they show does not look like what I have.
>
> This link http://adap.com/rv7/images/P3110032.JPG (lower right in the
> pic) shows the bottom of my tray and seems to be a bit different than
> the install manual.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Stewart Systems waterborne urethane |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Some one asked me to report in after talking to the Stewart Systems
people at Copperstate today, so here is my rather long report. You
should know that I am a rank amateur when it comes to painting. An
experienced painter might have a different take on this.
Stewart Systems (www.stewartsystems.aero) is selling a waterborne, two
part urethane paint. It is "low VOC", "nonhazardous, nonflammable and
EPA compliant" so it is much safer to spray than the typical urethane
paint. (VOC=volatile organic compounds.) It is not shipped as a
"hazardous material" and has very little odor. I was told that a carbon
filter respirator is all you need to spray this stuff (I'd probably err
on the safe side and use a fresh air respirator anyway). They also sell
a suitable one part primer along with the all the necessary surface prep
chemicals for fabric planes and aluminum and fiberglass too. All
nonhazardous and nonflammable. You can get all the detailed
specifications from the website. Click on metal aircraft
products/waterborn 2-part polyurethane topcoat.
After the urethane cures, they claim it is like any other urethane
paint, except that it is probably a bit more flexible. They had a
"sheet" of the stuff there (had been sprayed on a primed surface that it
wouldn't stick to so they could peel paint+primer off after it cured).
It was like a sheet of very tough, thin, very flexible plastic. except I
couldn't stretch it at all. Reminded me of the rip-stop nylon that is
used to make parachutes. I was probably about the 1000th guy to handle it.
The paint isn't applied like typical, high VOC paints. I guess it has
somewhat different density and viscosity, so experienced painters have
to be careful to NOT spray it the way they are used to spraying paint.
They recommend a Devilbiss HVLP spray gun kit which costs less than
$300, because I think it has some very small nozzles and can produce
very small droplets with this paint. They don't like turbine powered
spray guns because they heat the air. Since the paint is full of water
to start with, there's no value to any air dehumidifying effect that a
turbine may have. They recommend applying the paint in 4 or 5 light
coats. The first is a"fog coat". I gather that means not much paint
and very small dropplets. After the first one (which you can see thru)
gets tacky, you give the paint ajustment on the gun a 1/4 turn increase
and spray the next one. Then repeat the process. Sags and orange peel
can be repaired the same as with any other paint: You sand it with 1500
grit and then maybe 2000 grit and then buff it with a polishing
compound. He recommended the Dupont compound used for buffing clear coat.
They don't say anything about clear coat and there is none in their
catalog. So if you're one of those guys who has to have a clear coat, I
guess you'll have to do that in the usual way. I'm not. Primer and
color coat are enough of a challenge for me.
They have a manual which describes all the recommended procedures and
equipment, how to adjust the gun, etc. Unfortunately, they weren't
passing them out at the fly-in, so I will have to ask for one to be sent
to me on monday. Ask for a color chart too.
I have decided to use this stuff. The neighbors won't complain about
the odor, it won't give me cancer or liver disease and it won't
explode. (The guy at the booth claimed it would put a fire out, though
that sounds like salesman's hyperbole.) It seems to be just the ticket
for a temporary home spray booth project. The price seems to be about
the same as other paints. The primer is about $140/gallon. The color
coats run $230 to $338/gallon depending on the color. Most are $250 -
$270/gallon. So I'm guessing $700 - $800 total for the paint for my
plane. With the spraygun, paint booth, other chemicals, I'll probably
spend $1500 to paint the plane. I don't look forward to this, but if it
turns out well, I'll be glad to tell people I did it myself.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting William Gill <wgill10@comcast.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
>
> Here's a link to their site:
>
> http://www.rayallencompany.com/
>
>
> do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> bertrv6@highstream.net
> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 5:21 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: control sticks
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
>
> I have tried to contact the company Menzimer Aircraft (Mac) but
> the phone is not working.
>
> Is this company now, Ray Allen? if so any one has the PHone number,
> or Email Adress?
>
> I want to buy one of the G5 sticks....
>
>
> Would like to compare prices, with them directly and thru other
> suppliers..
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> do nopt archive
>
>
> THNKS BILL;; I DID NOT PUT COMPANY...
>
> BERT
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
You are right. You do not need to uinstall TSO seat belts, just belts that are
safe in the opinion of the inspector.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
----------------------------------------
> From: emrath@comcast.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement
> Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 19:39:37 -0500
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> The wording of this Advisory Circular, which does not carrry the full weight
> of the FARs states that you "should" not "must" install TSO seat belts.
> Marty RV-6A Wiring
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
>
> Ken:
>
> Read AC 20-27E section 7 d (2). (its on page 4)
>
> http://members.eaa.org/home/govt/rules/ac20-27e.pdf
>
> or
>
>
>
> http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular
> .nsf/0/0ca2845e2aafffbb86256dbf00640cb2/$FILE/AC20-27F.pdf
>
>
> it says:
> "d. Designing the Cockpit/Cabin. When you design the cockpit or cabin,
> you
> should do the
> following:"
> -------- snip ---------
> "(2) Install FAA TSO-approved seatbelts and shoulder harnesses. ..."
>
> Note that it says "...you should..." not that you must.
>
> I am trying to find in the regulations and FAA orders where it says
> that you
> MUST have seatbelts in an amateur built experimental aircraft . I do
> not
> know any DARs or FAA inspectors that will put their name on the
> Special
> Airworthiness Certificate pink slip (FAA Form 8130-7) on any amateur
> bult
> aircraft that does not have seat belts.
>
> If you find the FAA REQUIREMENT that says you MUST have seatbelts in
> an
> amateur built experimental, please post it to the list.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,962 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://www.rvdar.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "kenneth hill" <khill5@indy.rr.com>
> Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
>
> The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very
> much.
> I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff.
>
> However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from
> Van's,
> were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would
> have
> to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has
> anyone
> else run into this? I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an
>
> experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable."
> Do I
> make the government happy and maybe avoid problems down the road by
> changing
> them or continue with what I have installed?
>
> Ken Hill
> Plainfield, IN.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and morethen map the
> best
> route! http://local.live.com?FORM=MGA001
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 16
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Hi Guys,
Not strictly RV related but does anyone know of a source for the old DuPont
explosive rivits. They were used some back in the 50's and 60's.
This is for a friends Ercoupe--rudder rib AD
Thanks, Bill
William Davis
rvpilot@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane |
--> RV-List message posted by: "glaesers" <glaesers@wideopenwest.com>
I've been using the AFS primer/sealer for over a year (and like it) and
recently used their 2 part finish paint to do the inside of my tip-up frame.
For this job I used an Ingersol Rand spray HVLP gun (my son bought it at
Lowes) that hooks up to a regular compressor.
The color part of the paint is very thin, so I didn't think I'd need to add
much water to thin it. However when you add the second part, the paint
thickens up considerably, so I added water to thin it per the directions.
You use a viscosity cup and time how long it takes to drain to get the right
consistency. This was my first attempt at spraying a finish coat, so I
tried to follow the directions pretty closely. I didn't use a paint booth,
but did have a fan nearby to minimize overspray settling. It came out very
nice - better than I expected. The surface isn't mirror smooth but would
buff out with no problem (this is the inside of the tipup frame so that is
good enough). Perhaps if I used a gun with a finer nozzle it would have
been mirror smooth.
The paint does have an odor - but nothing compared to automotive paint. I
used a charcoal filter mask.
This paint dries to a 'wet look' finish. It looks like it was clear coated,
but it wasn't. That's probably why they don't have a clear coat product -
this stuff doesn't need it! In fact, since I'm using it for my interior, I
asked them about 'dulling it down' for use on the IP and they sent me an
additive for that purpose (or they can send the paint pre-mixed that way).
I haven't used that yet.
One benefit of being water based is that I can use my propane radiant heater
in my garage to warm things up enough to paint (small jobs anyway) and not
have to worry about explosions :-) I live in Michigan, so big jobs will
have to wait a while...
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A Finishing
Message 18
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| Subject: | 1990 RV-4 kit cost |
--> RV-List message posted by: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge@gmail.com>
Does anybody have any recollection what the empennage and wing kits
cost on the RV-4 back in about 1990?
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: FAA seat belt requirementFAA seat belt requirement |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
Mike Robertson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
>
> You are right. You do not need to uinstall TSO seat belts, just belts that are
safe in the opinion of the inspector.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
Mike, when the inspector from your office looked at my RV-6 the first
thing he did was check to make sure I had TSOed seat belts, that was
about all he wanted to look at. Of course that was long before your time
there. :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Exhaust nut torque? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
I need to torque my exhaust nuts, but haven't found the what they should
be torqued to. Can someone please let me know what that should be. Saves
searching through all the papers I have piled in the hanger.
--
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> One benefit of being water based is that I can use my propane radiant heater
> in my garage to warm things up enough to paint (small jobs anyway) and not
> have to worry about explosions :-) I live in Michigan, so big jobs will
> have to wait a while...
That sounds like some nice paint! One question - is there a risk of the
hydrocarbons from the propane heater floating around and reducing the
quality of the paint finish? One fiberglass guy I know told me not to
use my super-clean, high tech Zibro-Kamin kerosene heaters due to the
contamination in the fiberglass layup. I'm not sure if this is an issue
with paint, or with waterbased paint, but you may want to look into it.
Thanks for the pirep on the AFS paint.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
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