Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:10 AM - Re: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) (Charles Reiche)
2. 01:21 AM - Float sender question (David Karlsberg)
3. 03:44 AM - Re: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) (Doug Gray)
4. 04:55 AM - Re: 1990 RV-4 kit cost (Dean Pichon)
5. 05:28 AM - Re: DuPont rivits (Charles Rowbotham)
6. 05:31 AM - Re: Exhaust nut torque? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
7. 06:21 AM - Re: Exhaust nut torque? (Bobby Hester)
8. 07:02 AM - Re: Float sender question (MLWynn@AOL.COM)
9. 07:03 AM - Re: Re: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane (MLWynn@aol.com)
10. 07:44 AM - Re: Float sender question (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 07:45 AM - Re: Float sender question (Tim Bryan)
12. 07:58 AM - Serial connections in Parallel? (David Leonard)
13. 08:19 AM - Re: Serial connections in Parallel? (Larry Bowen)
14. 08:20 AM - Re: Serial connections in Parallel? (RV6 Flyer)
15. 10:29 AM - Re: Exhaust nut torque? (Vanremog@aol.com)
16. 11:17 AM - Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (dannylsmith)
17. 01:37 PM - VM1000C (Parker Thomas)
18. 02:47 PM - Re: 1990 RV-4 kit cost (Bob J.)
19. 03:51 PM - list back up? (sarg314)
20. 03:58 PM - Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists... (Matt Dralle)
21. 04:04 PM - Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (linn Walters)
22. 04:51 PM - Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (N67BT@aol.com)
23. 05:08 PM - Re: VM1000C (Ralph E. Capen)
24. 05:47 PM - Re: VM1000C (Tim Bryan)
25. 06:33 PM - Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (Paul Besing)
26. 07:02 PM - Stewart Systems waterborne urethane (sarg314)
27. 07:18 PM - Re: VM1000C (Bruce Gray)
28. 08:24 PM - Re: Serial connections in Parallel? (Brian Kraut)
29. 09:22 PM - Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (Paul Besing)
30. 11:35 PM - Re: VM1000C (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?=)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) |
If the case is the right size overall, it is completely normal for the black bezel
to hit the lower lip edge of the case. this will leave about .100" of space
or gap that you can see between the rest of the case and the bezel, you have
to set the case in the avionics rack spaced with the lip edge flush with the
front face of your panel stock. To be absolutly sure, i would put power and
ground in the 4 pins shown in the manual attach the backshell and connector to
the rack, then seat you unit in the rack and make sure it seats far anough into
the connector and powers up just fine. Wiggle everything pretty good to make
sure there are no intermittants.
Good luck
Charles
----- Original Message -----
From: PIAVIS
To: RV-List@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?)
For those that know the ins and outs of avionics, I have a good question. Last
week I posted a question about my GTX 327 to Matronics, as the transponder wouldn't
slide completely into the tray and lock. The lower edge of the tray was
in contact with the aft lower face of the unit. Along the back lower face of
the bezel, there appears to be two slots where the tray tongs would slide in.
That's fine and that's what it looks like in the GTX 327 install manual.
The manual calls out Garmin p/n 115-00285-00 as referenced in the install manual
(figure B2). The problem is that I have p/n 115-00431-00 (as stamped on the
tray) and doesn't look like the referenced illustration. Are these trays supposed
to be interchangable? I did find a reference to that p/n on the web through
Avionics Now which indicated that the 004341 unit was good for 320A/ 327,
but even the tray they show does not look like what I have.
This link http://adap.com/rv7/images/P3110032.JPG (lower right in the pic) shows the bottom of my tray and seems to be a bit different than the install manual.
Thanks,
Jim
Message 2
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| Subject: | Float sender question |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
Okay... I am setting up my fuel tank floats. Is the float supposed to hit
the bottom or top of the tank? My guess is no, looking at the plans. I
just wanted to be sure.
Thanks,
David
Ps if there are any hints or things I should know about this stuff bring it
on.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
115-00285-00 is punched into my tray and the unit fits fine including
the connector engagement.
The manual (Rev L June 2006) is not error free errors, the tray drawings
may also be problematic. I will just fit the tray I have as best I can.
The GTX-327 tray is 0.05" wider and look nothing like the SL-40 tray.
Doug Gray
On Sat, 2006-10-28 at 08:39 -0700, PIAVIS wrote:
> For those that know the ins and outs of avionics, I have a good
> question. Last week I posted a question about my GTX 327 to Matronics,
> as the transponder wouldnt slide completely into the tray and lock.
> The lower edge of the tray was in contact with the aft lower face of
> the unit. Along the back lower face of the bezel, there appears to be
> two slots where the tray tongs would slide in. Thats fine and thats
> what it looks like in the GTX 327 install manual.
>
> The manual calls out Garmin p/n 115-00285-00 as referenced in the
> install manual (figure B2). The problem is that I have p/n
> 115-00431-00 (as stamped on the tray) and doesnt look like the
> referenced illustration. Are these trays supposed to be
> interchangable? I did find a reference to that p/n on the web through
> Avionics Now which indicated that the 004341 unit was good for 320A/
> 327, but even the tray they show does not look like what I have.
>
> This link http://adap.com/rv7/images/P3110032.JPG (lower right in the
> pic) shows the bottom of my tray and seems to be a bit different than
> the install manual.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | 1990 RV-4 kit cost |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Your post piqued my curiosity so I looked in my RV file and bonund that in
September of 1991, I paid $165 for the plans and $715 for the empenage kit
for my -4. At that time, Van's charge a 4% premium if an order was paid
with a credit card. I doubt the tail kit (of a -4) has changed much, but
I'm sure the price has gone up over the years.
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
RV-4
350hrs
----Original Message Follows----
From: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge@gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: 1990 RV-4 kit cost
--> RV-List message posted by: "bruce breckenridge"
<bbreckenridge@gmail.com>
Does anybody have any recollection what the empennage and wing kits
cost on the RV-4 back in about 1990?
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Bill,
I have checked and they are not longer available, and from what I have been
told for a while.
I have a few - How many is he looking for and what size?
Please contact me off line.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "William Davis" <rvpilot@earthlink.net>
>To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: DuPont rivits
>Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2006 21:14:47 -0400
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>Not strictly RV related but does anyone know of a source for the old DuPont
>explosive rivits. They were used some back in the 50's and 60's.
>This is for a friends Ercoupe--rudder rib AD
>
>Thanks, Bill
>
>
>William Davis
>rvpilot@earthlink.net
>EarthLink Revolves Around You.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust nut torque? |
In a message dated 10/29/2006 12:23:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bobbyhester@charter.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
I need to torque my exhaust nuts, but haven't found the what they should
be torqued to. Can someone please let me know what that should be. Saves
searching through all the papers I have piled in the hanger.
--
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
204 inch-pounds (17 foot-pounds) if they are 5/16 inch studs -- standard
torque from the back of the Lycoming overhaul manual.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust nut torque? |
I was looking for what was called out in the Vetterman instructions.
Found it from another list: 100-140 in lbs. Thanks!
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/29/2006 12:23:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> bobbyhester@charter.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
>
> I need to torque my exhaust nuts, but haven't found the what they
> should
> be torqued to. Can someone please let me know what that should be.
> Saves
> searching through all the papers I have piled in the hanger.
>
> --
> ------
> Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>
> 204 inch-pounds (17 foot-pounds) if they are 5/16 inch studs --
> standard torque from the back of the Lycoming overhaul manual.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Float sender question |
Hi David,
I did this a few months ago. I made one interesting mistake. The plans
give one spec to where the bends go on the float arm. An insert with the floats
gives a different one. I used the plans before I noticed the other, so I
have a slightly reduced range of motion. Most people have said that you want
to use a fuel totalizer and not depend entirely on the guages, so I am not
buying new float sender arms.
The archives here and at VAF have a wealth of other suggestions on sealing
and set up.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Wings
San Ramon, California
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane |
At the risk of asking a really stupid question, are AFS and Stewart systems
the same thing? I have been thinking about painting my own plane, especially
doing the interior prior to assembly. I am very daunted by the toxicity of
standard airplane paint. This looks like a vast improvement.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Wings
San Ramon, California
Do Not Archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Float sender question |
David,
I just bent the arms about like the plans showed as I remember. I adjusted
the bends until the floats just touched the bottom and top of the tanks at
their extreme limits of travel. Later I came across the sheet that was included
with the senders, I guess. I didn't check to see if I had done it right
because the tanks were already closed up.
I must have done it about right. In separate flight tests (!) I ran each
tank dry. I had 3 to 5 minutes of fuel remaining after the gauge hit the empty
pin. Close enough!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 10/29/2006 3:23:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
claypride@hotmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
Okay... I am setting up my fuel tank floats. Is the float supposed to hit
the bottom or top of the tank? My guess is no, looking at the plans. I
just wanted to be sure.
Thanks,
David
Ps if there are any hints or things I should know about this stuff bring it
on.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Float sender question |
After completing my plane and filling my tanks a little at a time to see how
the gauges read, I would consider hooking a gauge up while setting up the
senders. I am not happy with the way they read, but I do have the fuel
computer system to back me up. If you are going to use standard fuel
gauges, consider hooking them up while you can adjust your senders.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Float sender question
Hi David,
I did this a few months ago. I made one interesting mistake. The plans
give one spec to where the bends go on the float arm. An insert with the
floats gives a different one. I used the plans before I noticed the other,
so I have a slightly reduced range of motion. Most people have said that
you want to use a fuel totalizer and not depend entirely on the guages, so I
am not buying new float sender arms.
The archives here and at VAF have a wealth of other suggestions on sealing
and set up.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Wings
San Ramon, California
Message 12
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| Subject: | Serial connections in Parallel? |
I am going to get a Garmin 396or496 and want to connect it's serial output
to my SL/30 so it can program the frequencies. I also want to connect it to
my Navid, so the NMEA data can steer the auto pilot. But the Garmin only
has 1 serial out line.
The output on the Garmin is labeled as "NMEA and VHF" which makes me assume
that the data stream has the NMEA data interposed with the VHF programming
data.
So the question for you smart guys is: If I connect the serial out signal
from the Garmin in parallel to both of the devices, will it work or will
there be some sort of signal degradation/interference?
Thanks
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Serial connections in Parallel? |
I'm feeding both my SL30 and TruTrak with the single output from my 396 with
no probs.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com <http://bowenaero.com/>
_____
From: David Leonard [mailto:wdleonard@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel?
I am going to get a Garmin 396or496 and want to connect it's serial output
to my SL/30 so it can program the frequencies. I also want to connect it to
my Navid, so the NMEA data can steer the auto pilot. But the Garmin only
has 1 serial out line.
The output on the Garmin is labeled as "NMEA and VHF" which makes me assume
that the data stream has the NMEA data interposed with the VHF programming
data.
So the question for you smart guys is: If I connect the serial out signal
from the Garmin in parallel to both of the devices, will it work or will
there be some sort of signal degradation/interference?
Thanks
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Serial connections in Parallel? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
What you are calling Parallel, we Electrical GEEKS call "Daisy Chain". (yes
it is parallel)
Yes it will work. I have my GX60 Serial Port 1 "Daisy Chained" to the SL30
and then to my Trio. Everything works. I tried using Serial Port 2 to run
the Trio but the GX60 only allows me to program it with the correct output
format to only one of the two ports. Therefore I would have been able to use
serial data on only one of the two.
The only problem maybe that it is not the correct format for the Navaid.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,964 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "David Leonard" <wdleonard@gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel?
I am going to get a Garmin 396or496 and want to connect it's serial output
to my SL/30 so it can program the frequencies. I also want to connect it to
my Navid, so the NMEA data can steer the auto pilot. But the Garmin only
has 1 serial out line.
The output on the Garmin is labeled as "NMEA and VHF" which makes me assume
that the data stream has the NMEA data interposed with the VHF programming
data.
So the question for you smart guys is: If I connect the serial out signal
from the Garmin in parallel to both of the devices, will it work or will
there be some sort of signal degradation/interference?
Thanks
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust nut torque? |
In a message dated 10/28/2006 9:23:55 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
bobbyhester@charter.net writes:
I need to torque my exhaust nuts, but haven't found the what they should
be torqued to. Can someone please let me know what that should be. Saves
searching through all the papers I have piled in the hanger.
100 to 140 in-lb according to the Vetterman installation instruction with
the Blo-Proof Gaskets on the O-360.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 813hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Infinity Stick in an RV-7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dannylsmith" <dsmit132@bellsouth.net>
I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the
bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable from
the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end
bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have
this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole in
the control stick for the cable to exit.
--------
Danny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70948#70948
Message 17
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|
Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out
which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure sensors
that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of
course, the description doesn't reference what it is used for.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade
____________________________________
F. Parker Thomas
phone 510-393-9876
fax 801-382-1974
me@parkerthomas.com
skype - parker.thomas
LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: 1990 RV-4 kit cost |
In 1992 I paid $9300 for my RV-6 kit, complete. IIRC an RV-4 kit around
that time went for $8900.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 10/28/06, bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "bruce breckenridge" <
> bbreckenridge@gmail.com>
>
> Does anybody have any recollection what the empennage and wing kits
> cost on the RV-4 back in about 1990?
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Is the list back up?
do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers (Specifically Comcast Listers),
For about the last two days, Comcast was blocking incoming email from the Matronics
Email Lists because their spam filters thought the mail was spam. I was
able to finally get them to lift the block about 3pm PST 10/29/2006 and it appears
that people on Comcast are receiving List messages again.
If you are a Comcast user, you might want to email them and express your displeasure
with their Spam blocking policy, particularly as it relates to "matronics.com".
Sorry for the hassle...
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Be careful drilling a hole down low for the cable exit. Control sticks
have been known to break where the hole is. If you decide to go that
route, weld a washer to the stick (make it fit the curve) to strengthen it.
Linn
do not archive
dannylsmith wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "dannylsmith" <dsmit132@bellsouth.net>
>
>I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the
bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable
from the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end
bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have
this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole in
the control stick for the cable to exit.
>
>--------
>Danny
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70948#70948
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A |
I welded a short piece of 4130 tubing at the cable exit and another to
reverse the cable direction.
See: _http://mesawood.com/stickgrip.htm_ (http://mesawood.com/stickgrip.htm)
Bob Trumpfheller
In a message dated 10/29/2006 12:24:34 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,
dsmit132@bellsouth.net writes:
I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in
the bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large
cable from the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two
rod-end bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else
have this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a
hole in the control stick for the cable to exit.
Message 23
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>From what I've read, the sensors are compatible with the original VM1000
Tell me what the part numbers are and I can probablt tell you what
they're for......
----- Original Message -----
From: Parker Thomas
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 4:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: VM1000C
Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure
out which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure
sensors that look the same on the outside, but have different
descriptions. Of course, the description doesn't reference what it is
used for.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade
____________________________________
F. Parker Thomas
phone 510-393-9876
fax 801-382-1974
me@parkerthomas.com
skype - parker.thomas
LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas
Message 24
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I was told they were not at all compatible. I would double check this
first with VM
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000C
>From what I've read, the sensors are compatible with the original VM1000
Tell me what the part numbers are and I can probablt tell you what they're
for......
----- Original Message -----
From: Parker Thomas <mailto:me@parkerthomas.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 4:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: VM1000C
Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out
which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure sensors
that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of
course, the description doesn't reference what it is used for.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade
____________________________________
F. Parker Thomas
phone 510-393-9876
fax 801-382-1974
me@parkerthomas.com
skype - parker.thomas
LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A |
Yep, that's what you have to do. I had actually more than one exit hole from what
I remember. Just drill a hole, fish the wires through, and install a grommet.
Paul Besing
dannylsmith <dsmit132@bellsouth.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "dannylsmith"
I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the
bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable from
the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end
bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have
this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole in
the control stick for the cable to exit.
--------
Danny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70948#70948
---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited Try it today.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Stewart Systems waterborne urethane |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Some one asked me to report in after talking to the Stewart Systems
people at Copperstate today, so here is my rather long report. You
should know that I am a rank amateur when it comes to painting. An
experienced painter might have a different take on this.
Stewart Systems (www.stewartsystems.aero) is selling a waterborne, two
part urethane paint. It is "low VOC", "nonhazardous, nonflammable and
EPA compliant" so it is much safer to spray than the typical urethane
paint. (VOC=volatile organic compounds.) It is not shipped as a
"hazardous material" and has very little odor. I was told that a carbon
filter respirator is all you need to spray this stuff (I'd probably err
on the safe side and use a fresh air respirator anyway). They also sell
a suitable one part primer along with the all the necessary surface prep
chemicals for fabric planes and aluminum and fiberglass too. All
nonhazardous and nonflammable. You can get all the detailed
specifications from the website. Click on metal aircraft
products/waterborn 2-part polyurethane topcoat.
After the urethane cures, they claim it is like any other urethane
paint, except that it is probably a bit more flexible. They had a
"sheet" of the stuff there (had been sprayed on a primed surface that it
wouldn't stick to so they could peel paint+primer off after it cured).
It was like a sheet of very tough, thin, very flexible plastic. except I
couldn't stretch it at all. Reminded me of the rip-stop nylon that is
used to make parachutes. I was probably about the 1000th guy to handle it.
The paint isn't applied like typical, high VOC paints. I guess it has
somewhat different density and viscosity, so experienced painters have
to be careful to NOT spray it the way they are used to spraying paint.
They recommend a Devilbiss HVLP spray gun kit which costs less than
$300, because I think it has some very small nozzles and can produce
very small droplets with this paint. They don't like turbine powered
spray guns because they heat the air. Since the paint is full of water
to start with, there's no value to any air dehumidifying effect that a
turbine may have. They recommend applying the paint in 4 or 5 light
coats. The first is a"fog coat". I gather that means not much paint
and very small dropplets. After the first one (which you can see thru)
gets tacky, you give the paint ajustment on the gun a 1/4 turn increase
and spray the next one. Then repeat the process. Sags and orange peel
can be repaired the same as with any other paint: You sand it with 1500
grit and then maybe 2000 grit and then buff it with a polishing
compound. He recommended the Dupont compound used for buffing clear coat.
They don't say anything about clear coat and there is none in their
catalog. So if you're one of those guys who has to have a clear coat, I
guess you'll have to do that in the usual way. I'm not. Primer and
color coat are enough of a challenge for me.
They have a manual which describes all the recommended procedures and
equipment, how to adjust the gun, etc. Unfortunately, they weren't
passing them out at the fly-in, so I will have to ask for one to be sent
to me on monday. Ask for a color chart too.
I have decided to use this stuff. The neighbors won't complain about
the odor, it won't give me cancer or liver disease and it won't
explode. (The guy at the booth claimed it would put a fire out, though
that sounds like salesman's hyperbole.) It seems to be just the ticket
for a temporary home spray booth project. The price seems to be about
the same as other paints. The primer is about $140/gallon. The color
coats run $230 to $338/gallon depending on the color. Most are $250 -
$270/gallon. So I'm guessing about $800 total for the paint for my
plane. With the spraygun, paint booth, other chemicals, I'll probably
spend $1500 to paint the plane. I don't look forward to this, but if it
turns out well, I'll be glad to tell people I did it myself.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
Message 27
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Yes, the sensors for the VM1000C are different than the old VM1000.
>From my notes for my engine (I0-540).
PN 3010041 (100 PSI) - Oil Pressure
PN 3010042 (50 PSI) - Fuel Pressure
PN 3010047 (15 PSI) - Manifold Pressure
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 8:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: VM1000C
I was told they were not at all compatible. I would double check this
first with VM
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000C
>From what I've read, the sensors are compatible with the original VM1000
Tell me what the part numbers are and I can probablt tell you what
they're
for......
----- Original Message -----
From: Parker <mailto:me@parkerthomas.com> Thomas
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 4:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: VM1000C
Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out
which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure
sensors
that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of
course, the description doesn't reference what it is used for.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade
____________________________________
F. Parker Thomas
phone 510-393-9876
fax 801-382-1974
me@parkerthomas.com
skype - parker.thomas
LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/N
avigator?RV-List
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
Message 28
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| Subject: | Serial connections in Parallel? |
You can usually output one NMEA signal to two or three devices in parallel
without a problem. Sometimes it gives problems, particularly when you are
going to a mix of RS-232 and optocoupler inputs. Some devices also ground
the negative side of the input and some devices don't like that.
I work with NMEA every day and it is a strange bird. The standard calls for
an RS-422 output, but an optocoupler input. Some units have RS-422 outputs,
some have RS-485, some have TTL. Some inputs are RS-422, some are
optocoupler, some are TTL, and some are RS-232. Some have the negative side
connected to ground on the transmitter, and some on the receiver, and some
have neither.
I design ship electronics systems for my day job and we use these buffers
when we need to output to more than one device.
http://www.engalt.com/prod01.htm. It is usually better to have a separate
isolated output to each device. The buffer prevents problems with one
device loading down the output and causing problems with other devices. It
also has completely independent buffered outputs so if one shorts or has
other problems it will not affect the other outputs. I manufacture the
buffers so my highly biased opinion is that you should use one.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Leonard
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:58 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel?
I am going to get a Garmin 396or496 and want to connect it's serial output
to my SL/30 so it can program the frequencies. I also want to connect it to
my Navid, so the NMEA data can steer the auto pilot. But the Garmin only
has 1 serial out line.
The output on the Garmin is labeled as "NMEA and VHF" which makes me
assume that the data stream has the NMEA data interposed with the VHF
programming data.
So the question for you smart guys is: If I connect the serial out signal
from the Garmin in parallel to both of the devices, will it work or will
there be some sort of signal degradation/interference?
Thanks
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A |
Very nice, Bob! Fantastic idea.
Paul Besing
do not archive
N67BT@aol.com wrote:
I welded a short piece of 4130 tubing at the cable exit and another to
reverse the cable direction.
See: http://mesawood.com/stickgrip.htm
Bob Trumpfheller
In a message dated 10/29/2006 12:24:34 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, dsmit132@bellsouth.net
writes:
I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the
bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable
from the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end
bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have
this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole
in the control stick for the cable to exit.
---------------------------------
Message 30
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Parker,
I presume that you have you contacted Visions Microsystems and that you
did
not get a response from them since you are placing this question on the
list
' this augurs ill as far as customer service is concerned. Could you
possibly indicate whether VM is indeed providing or not providing
excellent,
good, adequate or poor customer service?
Thanks,
Michele
RV8 ' Fuselage ' have been considering installing VMC1000C
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Parker Thomas
Sent: dimanche 29 octobre 2006 22:36
Subject: RV-List: VM1000C
Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out
which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure
sensors
that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of
course, the description doesn=92t reference what it is used for.
Thanks,
Parker Thomas
RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade
____________________________________
F. Parker Thomas
phone 510-393-9876
fax 801-382-1974
me@parkerthomas.com
skype - parker.thomas
LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas
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