---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 10/29/06: 30 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:10 AM - Re: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) (Charles Reiche) 2. 01:21 AM - Float sender question (David Karlsberg) 3. 03:44 AM - Re: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) (Doug Gray) 4. 04:55 AM - Re: 1990 RV-4 kit cost (Dean Pichon) 5. 05:28 AM - Re: DuPont rivits (Charles Rowbotham) 6. 05:31 AM - Re: Exhaust nut torque? (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 7. 06:21 AM - Re: Exhaust nut torque? (Bobby Hester) 8. 07:02 AM - Re: Float sender question (MLWynn@AOL.COM) 9. 07:03 AM - Re: Re: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane (MLWynn@aol.com) 10. 07:44 AM - Re: Float sender question (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 11. 07:45 AM - Re: Float sender question (Tim Bryan) 12. 07:58 AM - Serial connections in Parallel? (David Leonard) 13. 08:19 AM - Re: Serial connections in Parallel? (Larry Bowen) 14. 08:20 AM - Re: Serial connections in Parallel? (RV6 Flyer) 15. 10:29 AM - Re: Exhaust nut torque? (Vanremog@aol.com) 16. 11:17 AM - Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (dannylsmith) 17. 01:37 PM - VM1000C (Parker Thomas) 18. 02:47 PM - Re: 1990 RV-4 kit cost (Bob J.) 19. 03:51 PM - list back up? (sarg314) 20. 03:58 PM - Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists... (Matt Dralle) 21. 04:04 PM - Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (linn Walters) 22. 04:51 PM - Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (N67BT@aol.com) 23. 05:08 PM - Re: VM1000C (Ralph E. Capen) 24. 05:47 PM - Re: VM1000C (Tim Bryan) 25. 06:33 PM - Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (Paul Besing) 26. 07:02 PM - Stewart Systems waterborne urethane (sarg314) 27. 07:18 PM - Re: VM1000C (Bruce Gray) 28. 08:24 PM - Re: Serial connections in Parallel? (Brian Kraut) 29. 09:22 PM - Re: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A (Paul Besing) 30. 11:35 PM - Re: VM1000C (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?=) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:10:24 AM PST US From: Charles Reiche Subject: Re: RV-List: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) If the case is the right size overall, it is completely normal for the black bezel to hit the lower lip edge of the case. this will leave about .100" of space or gap that you can see between the rest of the case and the bezel, you have to set the case in the avionics rack spaced with the lip edge flush with the front face of your panel stock. To be absolutly sure, i would put power and ground in the 4 pins shown in the manual attach the backshell and connector to the rack, then seat you unit in the rack and make sure it seats far anough into the connector and powers up just fine. Wiggle everything pretty good to make sure there are no intermittants. Good luck Charles ----- Original Message ----- From: PIAVIS To: RV-List@matronics.com Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:39 AM Subject: RV-List: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) For those that know the ins and outs of avionics, I have a good question. Last week I posted a question about my GTX 327 to Matronics, as the transponder wouldn't slide completely into the tray and lock. The lower edge of the tray was in contact with the aft lower face of the unit. Along the back lower face of the bezel, there appears to be two slots where the tray tongs would slide in. That's fine and that's what it looks like in the GTX 327 install manual. The manual calls out Garmin p/n 115-00285-00 as referenced in the install manual (figure B2). The problem is that I have p/n 115-00431-00 (as stamped on the tray) and doesn't look like the referenced illustration. Are these trays supposed to be interchangable? I did find a reference to that p/n on the web through Avionics Now which indicated that the 004341 unit was good for 320A/ 327, but even the tray they show does not look like what I have. This link http://adap.com/rv7/images/P3110032.JPG (lower right in the pic) shows the bottom of my tray and seems to be a bit different than the install manual. Thanks, Jim ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:21:45 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Float sender question From: David Karlsberg --> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg Okay... I am setting up my fuel tank floats. Is the float supposed to hit the bottom or top of the tank? My guess is no, looking at the plans. I just wanted to be sure. Thanks, David Ps if there are any hints or things I should know about this stuff bring it on. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:44:18 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: GTX327 Tray (Do I have the right tray?) From: Doug Gray --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray 115-00285-00 is punched into my tray and the unit fits fine including the connector engagement. The manual (Rev L June 2006) is not error free errors, the tray drawings may also be problematic. I will just fit the tray I have as best I can. The GTX-327 tray is 0.05" wider and look nothing like the SL-40 tray. Doug Gray On Sat, 2006-10-28 at 08:39 -0700, PIAVIS wrote: > For those that know the ins and outs of avionics, I have a good > question. Last week I posted a question about my GTX 327 to Matronics, > as the transponder wouldnt slide completely into the tray and lock. > The lower edge of the tray was in contact with the aft lower face of > the unit. Along the back lower face of the bezel, there appears to be > two slots where the tray tongs would slide in. Thats fine and thats > what it looks like in the GTX 327 install manual. > > The manual calls out Garmin p/n 115-00285-00 as referenced in the > install manual (figure B2). The problem is that I have p/n > 115-00431-00 (as stamped on the tray) and doesnt look like the > referenced illustration. Are these trays supposed to be > interchangable? I did find a reference to that p/n on the web through > Avionics Now which indicated that the 004341 unit was good for 320A/ > 327, but even the tray they show does not look like what I have. > > This link http://adap.com/rv7/images/P3110032.JPG (lower right in the > pic) shows the bottom of my tray and seems to be a bit different than > the install manual. > > Thanks, > > Jim > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:55:28 AM PST US From: "Dean Pichon" Subject: RE: RV-List: 1990 RV-4 kit cost --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" Your post piqued my curiosity so I looked in my RV file and bonund that in September of 1991, I paid $165 for the plans and $715 for the empenage kit for my -4. At that time, Van's charge a 4% premium if an order was paid with a credit card. I doubt the tail kit (of a -4) has changed much, but I'm sure the price has gone up over the years. Dean Pichon Bolton, MA RV-4 350hrs ----Original Message Follows---- From: "bruce breckenridge" Subject: RV-List: 1990 RV-4 kit cost --> RV-List message posted by: "bruce breckenridge" Does anybody have any recollection what the empennage and wing kits cost on the RV-4 back in about 1990? Bruce Breckenridge 40018 _________________________________________________________________ Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:28:36 AM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: RE: RV-List: DuPont rivits --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Bill, I have checked and they are not longer available, and from what I have been told for a while. I have a few - How many is he looking for and what size? Please contact me off line. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "William Davis" >To: "RV List" >Subject: RV-List: DuPont rivits >Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2006 21:14:47 -0400 > >Hi Guys, > >Not strictly RV related but does anyone know of a source for the old DuPont >explosive rivits. They were used some back in the 50's and 60's. >This is for a friends Ercoupe--rudder rib AD > >Thanks, Bill > > >William Davis >rvpilot@earthlink.net >EarthLink Revolves Around You. ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:31:34 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust nut torque? In a message dated 10/29/2006 12:23:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, bobbyhester@charter.net writes: --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester I need to torque my exhaust nuts, but haven't found the what they should be torqued to. Can someone please let me know what that should be. Saves searching through all the papers I have piled in the hanger. -- ------ Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ 204 inch-pounds (17 foot-pounds) if they are 5/16 inch studs -- standard torque from the back of the Lycoming overhaul manual. Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:21:24 AM PST US From: Bobby Hester Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust nut torque? I was looking for what was called out in the Vetterman instructions. Found it from another list: 100-140 in lbs. Thanks! ------ Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/29/2006 12:23:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, > bobbyhester@charter.net writes: > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester > > I need to torque my exhaust nuts, but haven't found the what they > should > be torqued to. Can someone please let me know what that should be. > Saves > searching through all the papers I have piled in the hanger. > > -- > ------ > Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY > Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ > > 204 inch-pounds (17 foot-pounds) if they are 5/16 inch studs -- > standard torque from the back of the Lycoming overhaul manual. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:02:16 AM PST US From: MLWynn@AOL.COM Subject: Re: RV-List: Float sender question Hi David, I did this a few months ago. I made one interesting mistake. The plans give one spec to where the bends go on the float arm. An insert with the floats gives a different one. I used the plans before I noticed the other, so I have a slightly reduced range of motion. Most people have said that you want to use a fuel totalizer and not depend entirely on the guages, so I am not buying new float sender arms. The archives here and at VAF have a wealth of other suggestions on sealing and set up. Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8, Wings San Ramon, California ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:03:44 AM PST US From: MLWynn@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane At the risk of asking a really stupid question, are AFS and Stewart systems the same thing? I have been thinking about painting my own plane, especially doing the interior prior to assembly. I am very daunted by the toxicity of standard airplane paint. This looks like a vast improvement. Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8, Wings San Ramon, California Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:44:28 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Float sender question David, I just bent the arms about like the plans showed as I remember. I adjusted the bends until the floats just touched the bottom and top of the tanks at their extreme limits of travel. Later I came across the sheet that was included with the senders, I guess. I didn't check to see if I had done it right because the tanks were already closed up. I must have done it about right. In separate flight tests (!) I ran each tank dry. I had 3 to 5 minutes of fuel remaining after the gauge hit the empty pin. Close enough! Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 10/29/2006 3:23:35 AM Eastern Standard Time, claypride@hotmail.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg Okay... I am setting up my fuel tank floats. Is the float supposed to hit the bottom or top of the tank? My guess is no, looking at the plans. I just wanted to be sure. Thanks, David Ps if there are any hints or things I should know about this stuff bring it on. ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:45:12 AM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: Float sender question After completing my plane and filling my tanks a little at a time to see how the gauges read, I would consider hooking a gauge up while setting up the senders. I am not happy with the way they read, but I do have the fuel computer system to back me up. If you are going to use standard fuel gauges, consider hooking them up while you can adjust your senders. Tim _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn@aol.com Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 7:01 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Float sender question Hi David, I did this a few months ago. I made one interesting mistake. The plans give one spec to where the bends go on the float arm. An insert with the floats gives a different one. I used the plans before I noticed the other, so I have a slightly reduced range of motion. Most people have said that you want to use a fuel totalizer and not depend entirely on the guages, so I am not buying new float sender arms. The archives here and at VAF have a wealth of other suggestions on sealing and set up. Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8, Wings San Ramon, California ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:58:05 AM PST US From: "David Leonard" Subject: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel? I am going to get a Garmin 396or496 and want to connect it's serial output to my SL/30 so it can program the frequencies. I also want to connect it to my Navid, so the NMEA data can steer the auto pilot. But the Garmin only has 1 serial out line. The output on the Garmin is labeled as "NMEA and VHF" which makes me assume that the data stream has the NMEA data interposed with the VHF programming data. So the question for you smart guys is: If I connect the serial out signal from the Garmin in parallel to both of the devices, will it work or will there be some sort of signal degradation/interference? Thanks -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY My websites at: http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:19:50 AM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel? I'm feeding both my SL30 and TruTrak with the single output from my 396 with no probs. - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com _____ From: David Leonard [mailto:wdleonard@gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:58 AM Subject: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel? I am going to get a Garmin 396or496 and want to connect it's serial output to my SL/30 so it can program the frequencies. I also want to connect it to my Navid, so the NMEA data can steer the auto pilot. But the Garmin only has 1 serial out line. The output on the Garmin is labeled as "NMEA and VHF" which makes me assume that the data stream has the NMEA data interposed with the VHF programming data. So the question for you smart guys is: If I connect the serial out signal from the Garmin in parallel to both of the devices, will it work or will there be some sort of signal degradation/interference? Thanks -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY My websites at: http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:20:05 AM PST US From: "RV6 Flyer" Subject: RE: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel? --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" What you are calling Parallel, we Electrical GEEKS call "Daisy Chain". (yes it is parallel) Yes it will work. I have my GX60 Serial Port 1 "Daisy Chained" to the SL30 and then to my Trio. Everything works. I tried using Serial Port 2 to run the Trio but the GX60 only allows me to program it with the correct output format to only one of the two ports. Therefore I would have been able to use serial data on only one of the two. The only problem maybe that it is not the correct format for the Navaid. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,964 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA ----Original Message Follows---- From: "David Leonard" Subject: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel? I am going to get a Garmin 396or496 and want to connect it's serial output to my SL/30 so it can program the frequencies. I also want to connect it to my Navid, so the NMEA data can steer the auto pilot. But the Garmin only has 1 serial out line. The output on the Garmin is labeled as "NMEA and VHF" which makes me assume that the data stream has the NMEA data interposed with the VHF programming data. So the question for you smart guys is: If I connect the serial out signal from the Garmin in parallel to both of the devices, will it work or will there be some sort of signal degradation/interference? Thanks -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY My websites at: http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com _________________________________________________________________ Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:27 AM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust nut torque? In a message dated 10/28/2006 9:23:55 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, bobbyhester@charter.net writes: I need to torque my exhaust nuts, but haven't found the what they should be torqued to. Can someone please let me know what that should be. Saves searching through all the papers I have piled in the hanger. 100 to 140 in-lb according to the Vetterman installation instruction with the Blo-Proof Gaskets on the O-360. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 813hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 11:17:25 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A From: "dannylsmith" --> RV-List message posted by: "dannylsmith" I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable from the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole in the control stick for the cable to exit. -------- Danny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70948#70948 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 01:37:16 PM PST US From: "Parker Thomas" Subject: RV-List: VM1000C Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure sensors that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of course, the description doesn't reference what it is used for. Thanks, Parker Thomas RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade ____________________________________ F. Parker Thomas phone 510-393-9876 fax 801-382-1974 me@parkerthomas.com skype - parker.thomas LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:47:52 PM PST US From: "Bob J." Subject: Re: RV-List: 1990 RV-4 kit cost In 1992 I paid $9300 for my RV-6 kit, complete. IIRC an RV-4 kit around that time went for $8900. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 10/28/06, bruce breckenridge wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "bruce breckenridge" < > bbreckenridge@gmail.com> > > Does anybody have any recollection what the empennage and wing kits > cost on the RV-4 back in about 1990? > > Bruce Breckenridge > 40018 > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 03:51:27 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: RV-List: list back up? --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 Is the list back up? do not archive ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:58:59 PM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Comcast Was Blocking Matronics Email Lists... --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers (Specifically Comcast Listers), For about the last two days, Comcast was blocking incoming email from the Matronics Email Lists because their spam filters thought the mail was spam. I was able to finally get them to lift the block about 3pm PST 10/29/2006 and it appears that people on Comcast are receiving List messages again. If you are a Comcast user, you might want to email them and express your displeasure with their Spam blocking policy, particularly as it relates to "matronics.com". Sorry for the hassle... Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 04:04:33 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A --> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters Be careful drilling a hole down low for the cable exit. Control sticks have been known to break where the hole is. If you decide to go that route, weld a washer to the stick (make it fit the curve) to strengthen it. Linn do not archive dannylsmith wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "dannylsmith" > >I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable from the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole in the control stick for the cable to exit. > >-------- >Danny > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70948#70948 > > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 04:51:05 PM PST US From: N67BT@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A I welded a short piece of 4130 tubing at the cable exit and another to reverse the cable direction. See: _http://mesawood.com/stickgrip.htm_ (http://mesawood.com/stickgrip.htm) Bob Trumpfheller In a message dated 10/29/2006 12:24:34 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, dsmit132@bellsouth.net writes: I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable from the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole in the control stick for the cable to exit. ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 05:08:31 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000C >From what I've read, the sensors are compatible with the original VM1000 Tell me what the part numbers are and I can probablt tell you what they're for...... ----- Original Message ----- From: Parker Thomas To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 4:35 PM Subject: RV-List: VM1000C Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure sensors that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of course, the description doesn't reference what it is used for. Thanks, Parker Thomas RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade ____________________________________ F. Parker Thomas phone 510-393-9876 fax 801-382-1974 me@parkerthomas.com skype - parker.thomas LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 05:47:03 PM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: VM1000C I was told they were not at all compatible. I would double check this first with VM Tim _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:00 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000C >From what I've read, the sensors are compatible with the original VM1000 Tell me what the part numbers are and I can probablt tell you what they're for...... ----- Original Message ----- From: Parker Thomas Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 4:35 PM Subject: RV-List: VM1000C Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure sensors that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of course, the description doesn't reference what it is used for. Thanks, Parker Thomas RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade ____________________________________ F. Parker Thomas phone 510-393-9876 fax 801-382-1974 me@parkerthomas.com skype - parker.thomas LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?RV-List ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 06:33:31 PM PST US From: Paul Besing Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A Yep, that's what you have to do. I had actually more than one exit hole from what I remember. Just drill a hole, fish the wires through, and install a grommet. Paul Besing dannylsmith wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: "dannylsmith" I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable from the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole in the control stick for the cable to exit. -------- Danny Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=70948#70948 --------------------------------- Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited Try it today. ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 07:02:30 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: RV-List: Stewart Systems waterborne urethane --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 Some one asked me to report in after talking to the Stewart Systems people at Copperstate today, so here is my rather long report. You should know that I am a rank amateur when it comes to painting. An experienced painter might have a different take on this. Stewart Systems (www.stewartsystems.aero) is selling a waterborne, two part urethane paint. It is "low VOC", "nonhazardous, nonflammable and EPA compliant" so it is much safer to spray than the typical urethane paint. (VOC=volatile organic compounds.) It is not shipped as a "hazardous material" and has very little odor. I was told that a carbon filter respirator is all you need to spray this stuff (I'd probably err on the safe side and use a fresh air respirator anyway). They also sell a suitable one part primer along with the all the necessary surface prep chemicals for fabric planes and aluminum and fiberglass too. All nonhazardous and nonflammable. You can get all the detailed specifications from the website. Click on metal aircraft products/waterborn 2-part polyurethane topcoat. After the urethane cures, they claim it is like any other urethane paint, except that it is probably a bit more flexible. They had a "sheet" of the stuff there (had been sprayed on a primed surface that it wouldn't stick to so they could peel paint+primer off after it cured). It was like a sheet of very tough, thin, very flexible plastic. except I couldn't stretch it at all. Reminded me of the rip-stop nylon that is used to make parachutes. I was probably about the 1000th guy to handle it. The paint isn't applied like typical, high VOC paints. I guess it has somewhat different density and viscosity, so experienced painters have to be careful to NOT spray it the way they are used to spraying paint. They recommend a Devilbiss HVLP spray gun kit which costs less than $300, because I think it has some very small nozzles and can produce very small droplets with this paint. They don't like turbine powered spray guns because they heat the air. Since the paint is full of water to start with, there's no value to any air dehumidifying effect that a turbine may have. They recommend applying the paint in 4 or 5 light coats. The first is a"fog coat". I gather that means not much paint and very small dropplets. After the first one (which you can see thru) gets tacky, you give the paint ajustment on the gun a 1/4 turn increase and spray the next one. Then repeat the process. Sags and orange peel can be repaired the same as with any other paint: You sand it with 1500 grit and then maybe 2000 grit and then buff it with a polishing compound. He recommended the Dupont compound used for buffing clear coat. They don't say anything about clear coat and there is none in their catalog. So if you're one of those guys who has to have a clear coat, I guess you'll have to do that in the usual way. I'm not. Primer and color coat are enough of a challenge for me. They have a manual which describes all the recommended procedures and equipment, how to adjust the gun, etc. Unfortunately, they weren't passing them out at the fly-in, so I will have to ask for one to be sent to me on monday. Ask for a color chart too. I have decided to use this stuff. The neighbors won't complain about the odor, it won't give me cancer or liver disease and it won't explode. (The guy at the booth claimed it would put a fire out, though that sounds like salesman's hyperbole.) It seems to be just the ticket for a temporary home spray booth project. The price seems to be about the same as other paints. The primer is about $140/gallon. The color coats run $230 to $338/gallon depending on the color. Most are $250 - $270/gallon. So I'm guessing about $800 total for the paint for my plane. With the spraygun, paint booth, other chemicals, I'll probably spend $1500 to paint the plane. I don't look forward to this, but if it turns out well, I'll be glad to tell people I did it myself. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A. ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 07:18:57 PM PST US From: "Bruce Gray" Subject: RE: RV-List: VM1000C Yes, the sensors for the VM1000C are different than the old VM1000. >From my notes for my engine (I0-540). PN 3010041 (100 PSI) - Oil Pressure PN 3010042 (50 PSI) - Fuel Pressure PN 3010047 (15 PSI) - Manifold Pressure Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 8:46 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: VM1000C I was told they were not at all compatible. I would double check this first with VM Tim _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:00 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000C >From what I've read, the sensors are compatible with the original VM1000 Tell me what the part numbers are and I can probablt tell you what they're for...... ----- Original Message ----- From: Parker Thomas Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 4:35 PM Subject: RV-List: VM1000C Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure sensors that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of course, the description doesn't reference what it is used for. Thanks, Parker Thomas RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade ____________________________________ F. Parker Thomas phone 510-393-9876 fax 801-382-1974 me@parkerthomas.com skype - parker.thomas LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics. com/N avigator?RV-List http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 08:24:04 PM PST US From: "Brian Kraut" Subject: RE: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel? You can usually output one NMEA signal to two or three devices in parallel without a problem. Sometimes it gives problems, particularly when you are going to a mix of RS-232 and optocoupler inputs. Some devices also ground the negative side of the input and some devices don't like that. I work with NMEA every day and it is a strange bird. The standard calls for an RS-422 output, but an optocoupler input. Some units have RS-422 outputs, some have RS-485, some have TTL. Some inputs are RS-422, some are optocoupler, some are TTL, and some are RS-232. Some have the negative side connected to ground on the transmitter, and some on the receiver, and some have neither. I design ship electronics systems for my day job and we use these buffers when we need to output to more than one device. http://www.engalt.com/prod01.htm. It is usually better to have a separate isolated output to each device. The buffer prevents problems with one device loading down the output and causing problems with other devices. It also has completely independent buffered outputs so if one shorts or has other problems it will not affect the other outputs. I manufacture the buffers so my highly biased opinion is that you should use one. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Leonard Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:58 AM To: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Serial connections in Parallel? I am going to get a Garmin 396or496 and want to connect it's serial output to my SL/30 so it can program the frequencies. I also want to connect it to my Navid, so the NMEA data can steer the auto pilot. But the Garmin only has 1 serial out line. The output on the Garmin is labeled as "NMEA and VHF" which makes me assume that the data stream has the NMEA data interposed with the VHF programming data. So the question for you smart guys is: If I connect the serial out signal from the Garmin in parallel to both of the devices, will it work or will there be some sort of signal degradation/interference? Thanks -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY My websites at: http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 09:22:22 PM PST US From: Paul Besing Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity Stick in an RV-7A Very nice, Bob! Fantastic idea. Paul Besing do not archive N67BT@aol.com wrote: I welded a short piece of 4130 tubing at the cable exit and another to reverse the cable direction. See: http://mesawood.com/stickgrip.htm Bob Trumpfheller In a message dated 10/29/2006 12:24:34 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, dsmit132@bellsouth.net writes: I'm installing my new Infinity grip in my RV-7A and it appears the hole in the bottom of the control stick may not be big enough for the rather large cable from the Infinity grip to pass through and still have room for the two rod-end bearings that attach to the bottom of the control stick. Did anyone else have this problem? What was your solution? It appears I may need to drill a hole in the control stick for the cable to exit. --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 11:35:26 PM PST US From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= Subject: RE: RV-List: VM1000C Parker, I presume that you have you contacted Visions Microsystems and that you did not get a response from them since you are placing this question on the list ' this augurs ill as far as customer service is concerned. Could you possibly indicate whether VM is indeed providing or not providing excellent, good, adequate or poor customer service? Thanks, Michele RV8 ' Fuselage ' have been considering installing VMC1000C _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Parker Thomas Sent: dimanche 29 octobre 2006 22:36 Subject: RV-List: VM1000C Has anyone out there installed a VM1000C? Could you help me figure out which sensor is which? For example, there are three liquid pressure sensors that look the same on the outside, but have different descriptions. Of course, the description doesn=92t reference what it is used for. Thanks, Parker Thomas RV-6A N421PT was flying until I pulled the instrument panel to upgrade ____________________________________ F. Parker Thomas phone 510-393-9876 fax 801-382-1974 me@parkerthomas.com skype - parker.thomas LinkedIn - http://www.linkedin.com/in/parkerthomas