---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 11/01/06: 7 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:58 AM - Re: Fuel sensors (Ron Schreck) 2. 08:23 AM - CS vs FP props (was fuel sensor) (Ron Lee) 3. 08:28 AM - Re: Fuel sensors (Bob) 4. 09:01 AM - Re: Re: Fuel sensors (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 5. 05:34 PM - Tach or Tach Cable Problem (Kyle Boatright) 6. 07:35 PM - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser - November! (Matt Dralle) 7. 07:44 PM - Re: Tach or Tach Cable Problem (FLYaDIVE@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:58:10 AM PST US From: "Ron Schreck" Subject: RV-List: Re: Fuel sensors You live in Denver! That brings up some other points: A constant speed prop would be a great addition. At high density altitudes a fixed pitch is really at a disadvantage. Sure, you lose engine power at altitude regardless of the prop, but with a constant speed you are starting out with far superior takeoff performance in the first place. I was in Greeley, Colorado two weeks ago and did some formation flying and aerobatics. The "floor" is above 7000 feet for aerobatics and performance is noticeably different from the 2000 foot "floor" which is typical out here on the east coast. I can't imaging how difficult negative "G" aerobatics might be at 7000+ feet! About that Super Decathlon; I haven't flown one and don't know if the prop is aerobatic or not. (Aerobatic props have counterweights that cause the prop to go to coarse pitch when oil pressure fails). Many entry level and intermediate aerobatic airplanes don't use aerobatic props. I guess they are betting that oil pressure fluctuations will be brief and/or occur at less than full throttle operation. Similarly, you could get away without an aerobatic prop on an RV if you are willing to take similar chances. Side note: Check out the eyeballs of pilots who have done serious negative "G" acro. Looks like they have been on a 3-day bender! The condition (blood shot eyes) isn't dangerous to health but just points out how hard negative "G" is on the body. Positive "G" has similar effects such as G-Rash. Ron Schreck RV-8 "Miss Izzy" Gold Hill Airpark, NC >Ron, >Thanks for the words of wisdom. You bring up some good points. I was >already planning on the CS prop to get the climb performance (I live in >Denver), I had considered and knew of the need for the inverted oil system >(to protect the engine and keep the belly clean) but did not know the cost. >I hadn't considered the CS prop's ability to maintain pitch, although the >Super Decathlon I flew had a CS prop, and seemed to do OK with negative G >stuff. >In any event, you have me thinking about this, and more research is >certainly in order. Thanks to everyone else who responded. I think I'll > stick with the float sensors and the fuel totalizer. >Keep on riveting, >DD ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:23:51 AM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: RV-List: CS vs FP props (was fuel sensor) --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee At 07:56 AM 11/1/2006, you wrote: > You live in Denver! That brings up some other points: A constant > speed prop would be a great addition. At high density altitudes a fixed > pitch is really at a disadvantage. Sure, you lose engine power at > altitude regardless of the prop, but with a constant speed you are > starting out with far superior takeoff performance in the first place. Certainly a CS prop provides better climb performance than a FP prop along with other advantages during cruise but a FP prop is not unsafe or a worthless prop choice here. Ron Lee 1000+ hours on a FP prop at 00V (6874' MSL) ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:28:39 AM PST US From: Bob Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel sensors --> RV-List message posted by: Bob On the other hand, I purposely built my RV6 for aerobatics. I do positive and negative maneuvers, I fly the sportsman and intermediate acrobatic maneuvers. I find the RV6 a delight to fly aerobatics. I do like it much better than the Super Decathlon. The RV6 is not a Extra 300, nor does it cost $300,000. I do have inverted oil, and no it does not keep the belly clean. I do fly with a 7 point Hooker Harness (ratchet) and it is no more uncomfortable upside down as it is right side up. Actually my RV6 upside down is a lot less painful than the Super Decathlon I used to fly. Personally, I would not own an airplane that did not have Hooker Harnesses in it. I do not fly with a CS prop. In my opinion it would only give me about 100 FPM more in climb and it would cost me 10 kts in speed, it also would cost me 45 lbs and increased complexity and maintenance costs. I believe that the single best thing to do for acrobatics is to keep it light. The extra 45 lbs puts a lot of extra stress on the crankshaft, and if you want a CS prop and want to do serious acrobatics then you will probably want an aerobatic crankshaft as well. As for keeping it light, that applies to my aircraft as well as to me the pilot. As for fuel injection. A lot of RV owners have it and they never fly upside down. Bob At 10:48 PM 10/31/06, you wrote: >Ron, > >Thanks for the words of wisdom. You bring up some good points. I was >already planning on the CS prop to get the climb performance (I live in >Denver), I had considered and knew of the need for the inverted oil system >(to protect the engine and keep the belly clean) but did not know the >cost. I hadn't considered the CS prop's ability to maintain pitch, >although the Super Decathlon I flew had a CS prop, and seemed to do OK >with negative G stuff. > >In any event, you have me thinking about this, and more research is >certainly in order. Thanks to everyone else who responded. I think I'll >stick with the float sensors and the fuel totalizer. > >Keep on riviting, > >DD > > >On 10/31/06, Ron Schreck ><ronschreck@alltel.net> wrote: >David, > >Your post brings up a subject which merits some discussion. I often hear >builders saying they want to do "limited aerobatics" so they are >installing this or that thingamajig on their RV. As delivered, the RV >(except the 9 and 10) is capable of many aerobatic maneuvers and it is a >joy to flop about with reckless abandon, knowing that it will eventually >come out upright with the pointy end going ahead of the tail. Generally >the "as delivered" RV is capable of most POSITIVE "G" maneuvers and this >gives it quite a long list of available aerobatic options. David, I'm not >picking on you, but just adding a flop tube in one of your fuel tanks is >not going to give you NEGATIVE "G" capability and thus expand the range of >aerobatic maneuvers. > >A carburetor will starve your engine immediately at negative "G". Cost of >a fuel injection system: $3000+ > >After 15 to 30 seconds of negative "G" flight your oil pressure will go to >zero. Cost of inverted oil system: $1200+ > >If you have a standard constant speed prop, a momentary loss of oil >pressure (even possible with inverted oil system) can cause the prop to go >to fine pitch at high power setting and overspeed your engine. Additional >cost for an aerobatic constant speed prop: $1500+ > >Now, if you do spend $6000+ to truly make your RV "fully" aerobatic you >really should do something about that single lap belt and purchase a >parachute just for safety sake. (Also, remove any ADI (vacuum or electric) >with a mechanical ADI or you will eventually ruin the gyro bearings.) > >And now you are ready to turn that baby downside up, but the airfoil is >not symmetrical so you will really need to work hard to make it perform >inverted maneuvers, and did I mention how uncomfortable inverted flight is >on your body! > >Bottom Line: Most RV's are capable of limited aerobatics when built >according to plans and they are a blast to fly. If you want more >performance, go buy an airplane that is purpose-made for aerobatics. > >I bring all this up, not to discourage anybody, but to give those who may >be inclined to equip their RV for "limited" aerobatics something to ponder >before you spend the milk money on the next thingamajig. Flame >away. Nomex installed. > >Ron "Smokey" Schreck >RV-8 "Miss Izzy" >Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > >Time: 10:21:24 PM PST US >From: "David Dalton" <ddalton536@gmail.com> > > > I have a question for the more experienced builders out there > regarding fuel > >sensors. I just purchased a used wing kit for my -7. It came > with the > >float type fuel sensors. My question is, what would the > advantages or > >disadvantages of capacitive sensors over the floats? I intend on > having a > >fuel totalizer built into the engine monitor, and will probably > install a > >flop tube for limited aerobatics. Thanks in advance for your advice. > > > >David Dalton > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List >http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:01:39 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fuel sensors In a message dated 11/01/2006 9:00:22 AM Central Standard Time, ronschreck@alltel.net writes: Side note: Check out the eyeballs of pilots who have done serious negative "G" acro. Looks like they have been on a 3-day bender! Sean Tucker was giving a talk at OSH a few years ago and said he knew he was pulling some "real" Gs when he could "feel his eyeballs touching the inside of his sunglasses" Ow... Mark do not archive ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:34:16 PM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: RV-List: Tach or Tach Cable Problem Saturday, I went on a 250 mile out and back trip to visit the Naval Air museum at Pensacola. A very nice trip, by the way. The only downside is that you can't land at NAS Pensacola, so you need either a rental car or a taxi. It hurt to pay $48 bucks to rent a little bitty car for a total of 6 hours and 24 miles. Anyway, during the early part of the flight I noticed the tachometer was unsteady although the engine note was unchanged and the MP never varied. Later (after things warmed up?), the tach was just fine. It seems pretty clear that something is wrong with in the tachometer, tach cable, or tach drive. My bet is that the problem is in the cable or the tachometer. How do I identify the real source of the problem? Kyle Boatright RV-6 N46KB ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:35:20 PM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Matronics Email List Fund Raiser - November! --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's through these sole Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site ( http://forums.matronics.com ), Wiki site ( http://wiki.matronics.com ), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matornics.com/search ), List Browse ( http://www.matornics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisments. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every few days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. Each message will generally highlight a particular feature or benefit of the Matronics Lists or detail a new feature or service that was added this year. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises aka Kitlog Pro (http://www.kitlog.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/). These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Paul, Andy, and Jon for their generous support of the Lists again this year!! You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below: https://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years. I know it sounds a little cliche, but you guys really do feel like family. Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:44:41 PM PST US From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Tach or Tach Cable Problem --> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com In a message dated 11/1/06 8:36:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, kboatright1@comcast.net writes: > It seems pretty clear that something is wrong with in the tachometer, tach > cable, or tach drive. My bet is that the problem is in the cable or the > tachometer. > > How do I identify the real source of the problem? > > Kyle Boatright > RV-6 N46KB ===================================== Kyle: It is very easy to do a basic maintenance action and then see what happens. The maintenance action is to remove the connections at both ends of the Tach cable. Then pull out the drive cable. Make up a small fitting that will allow you to use a standard grease gun filled with MolyGrease and squirt grease into the engine end until it comes out the Tach end. Then replace the drive cable. It is a good idea that you have help doing this so you will know when the cable is full. And as you push the drive cable back in, the helper can catch/clean up the grease as it is pushed out. Also, check on the feed of the Tach cable. Make sure there are no sharp bends and that it is secured, so it does not flop around. Barry "Chop'd Liver" _- _- _- _- _- _-