Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:05 AM - Re: Spraylat (linn Walters)
2. 05:23 AM - RV-wanted (Tim Bryan)
3. 06:38 AM - Re: KR> Premium Aircraft Parts (Brian Kraut)
4. 07:33 AM - Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. (John McMahon)
5. 07:35 AM - Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. (John McMahon)
6. 10:36 AM - BlueMountain Auto Pilot Q's (flyadive@aol.com)
7. 11:32 AM - Re: BlueMountain Auto Pilot Q's (Kevin Horton)
8. 11:38 AM - Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. (Dale Ensing)
9. 11:52 AM - Re: Re: Position of the battery in the RV8 (Mickey Coggins)
10. 02:14 PM - Re: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. (John Mcmahon)
11. 03:04 PM - Re: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. (Kelly McMullen)
12. 06:29 PM - Re: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. (Larry Bowen)
13. 09:20 PM - Re: RV Wanted - T18 For Sale (Jerry Hajek)
14. 10:29 PM - Re: Re: [RV-8] Clearance between oil cooler and engine mount? (HCRV6@comcast.net)
Message 1
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I think spraylat would work a whole lot better if it was put on in two
or three coats.
Linn
do not archive
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>Best way I could figure to use it was to lay it on thick, two coats, dry,
>then mask it all with blue masking tape. This allowed for overspray and
>allowed for an accidental dropped the tool on the canopy which I don't think
>the Spraylat would prevent a scratch as it just isn't thick enough. But it
>does allow for the masking tape to come off easily after time. I did have
>one section that I let go about a year and a half and it was a long pain
>pulling little stripes off one at a time.
>
>So remove all and repeat after nine months to one year if not done.
>
>Model builders use a similar latex product made by Tamiya that does work for
>masking acrylic paints. At least it did back when I used to make models. But
>it comes in one ounce quantities.
>
>W
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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I have a friend who is looking to purchase an RV-6, 7, or 9. Basic VFR and
affordable is all that is needed. If anybody knows of one, please contact
me off list
Do Not Archive
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: KR> Premium Aircraft Parts |
I was going to post something about them a few months ago but I changed my
mind thinking maybe it was just one bad deal. Now I am sorry I didn't. I
might have saved you some trouble.
I was doing a top overhaul on an O-290D on my Pacer. I had several broken
rings and all the pistons were shot, but the cylinders could be stretched
another 500 hours until I was ready to upgrade to an O-320. (The 290D has
awefull parts availibility and prices compared to the 320) I had to decide
between $4,000 for exchanged cylinders with new pistons or about $1,200 for
just honing the cylinders and putting in new pistons and rings. Premium was
the only company that said they had the pistons and rings and they had a
good price. The cylinder overhaul shops would not sell pistons without the
cylinders because the sets they had left were all they could get.
I ordered the pistons and rings from Premium and sent the cylinders off to
Don George to be inspected, honed, and repainted. The day the cylinders
were being shipped back I called Premium to get a tracking number and was
told "We are still looking for them" What kind of BS is this? I spent a
bunch of money and wasted a week to have my old cylinders done and the only
company that said they had them in stock now couldn't come up with them. To
make a long story a little shorter, I wound up buying overhauled cylinders
and pistons from Gibson (great company, I would highly recommend them) and
the fresh painted and honed cylinders I paid to ship all over the place for
nothing were returned as my cores.
I have attached part of my correspondence with them at the bottom of this
email. I am also copying this to the Mustang and RV lists to let everyone
else know to beware of Premium. I also need to go back and look at my
credit card statements and make sure they have not charged me.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: krnet-bounces+brian.kraut=engalt.com@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+brian.kraut=engalt.com@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Don
Chisholm
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 11:26 AM
Subject: KR> Premium Aircraft Parts
just a heads up to the group that are putting together production engines
for their machines. Avoid this company like the plague, I got stung on a
complete set of rings for an 0 235 Lycoming engine I put together and
contacted Barnstormers about them where I seen their adds and was informed
that they dropped them because of many complaints and will be contacting my
credit card company also. So beware
_______________________________________
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
----Original Message-----
From: Chris Baker [mailto:cbaker@premiumaircraftparts.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: Estimate from Premium Aircraft Parts, LLC
We will cancel your order. I am sure you will have no problem finding
these elsewhere as you have indicated.
-----Original Message-----
From: brian brian [mailto:brian@engalt.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 11:44 AM
Subject: RE: Estimate from Premium Aircraft Parts, LLC
I was told that you had them. I need to put them on this weekend. I
would have found them somewhere else if I knew that you didn't have
them. Let me know if you can get them to me tomorrow or not.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Chris Baker" <cbaker@premiumaircraftparts.com>
>I don't think Tim has found any pistons yet.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: brian brian [mailto:brian@engalt.com]
>Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 11:10 AM
>To: Chris Baker
>Subject: RE: Estimate from Premium Aircraft Parts, LLC
>
>
>I ordered pistons and rings on Monday. They should have been shipped.
>Can you send me the tracking number. Thanks.
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. |
----- Original Message -----
From: John McMahon
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 8:41 PM
Subject: Woodward Prop govenor..
Woodward oil leak Help..
Has any one that has Vans Woodward governor,had oil leaks
around the 1/4 mounting studs to the unit..Even after replacing
with new gasket,there is oil coming out at the studs at 2000 rpm
or more!!I know that there is a lot of pressure this unit puts out,
but I really do not want to send it out to be checked if anyone has
had this same problem..It has only about 130 hrs on it..
Anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
John McMahon (RV6 C/S 180)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. |
----- Original Message -----
From: John McMahon
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 9:32 AM
Subject: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor..
----- Original Message -----
From: John McMahon
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 8:41 PM
Subject: Woodward Prop govenor..
Woodward oil leak Help..
Has any one that has Vans Woodward governor,had oil leaks
around the 1/4 mounting studs to the unit..Even after replacing
with new gasket,there is oil coming out at the studs at 2000 rpm
or more!!I know that there is a lot of pressure this unit puts out,
but I really do not want to send it out to be checked if anyone has
had this same problem..It has only about 130 hrs on it..
Anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
John McMahon (RV6 C/S 180)
Message 6
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| Subject: | BlueMountain Auto Pilot Q's |
Hello Flight:
I am finishing up installing the Blue Mountain Auto Pilot in an RV-6A. The Altitude
hold servo is installed as well as the interface box. Now comes the difficult
part, installing the roll servo. I say difficult because the plane is
competed and flying and the installation is an after thought ... Many years after.
Installing the servo in the wing is not an option. After doing some fit checking
I have come up with an installation point on the pilot side half under the
seat and half into the area by the stick and under the left leg.
I am thinking about running the push rod from the servo to the right and connecting
the rod-end-bearing to the Hex Connecting Rod that goes between the pilot
& co-pilot sticks.
The method of connection would be to drill and tap the Hex Rod for a 1/4 - 28 thread
and use LocTite to secure it.
Each end of the push rod will have the rod-end-bearings to help in converting the
rotational arc movement of the servo to a liner movement for the aileron push
rods.
>From all I can see ... YES ... It will also handle the forward and back rock of
the stick.
So, what is my question(s)?
1 - Is the Hex Rod HOLLOW?
2 - From what I can ROUGHLY measure it is 9/16" from flat to flat. And since all
the stress in longitudinal do you feel that drilling and tapping a 1/4 - 28
thread in the Hex Rod is acceptable?
3 - If your answer to Q2 is NO then what method of connection do you recommend?
Thanks Flight, your help is greatly appreciated.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
________________________________________________________________________
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: BlueMountain Auto Pilot Q's |
On 19 Nov 2006, at 13:34, flyadive@aol.com wrote:
> I am finishing up installing the Blue Mountain Auto Pilot in an
> RV-6A. The Altitude hold servo is installed as well as the
> interface box. Now comes the difficult part, installing the roll
> servo. I say difficult because the plane is competed and flying
> and the installation is an after thought ... Many years after.
> Installing the servo in the wing is not an option. After doing
> some fit checking I have come up with an installation point on the
> pilot side half under the seat and half into the area by the stick
> and under the left leg.
> I am thinking about running the push rod from the servo to the
> right and connecting the rod-end-bearing to the Hex Connecting Rod
> that goes between the pilot & co-pilot sticks.
> The method of connection would be to drill and tap the Hex Rod for
> a 1/4 - 28 thread and use LocTite to secure it.
> Each end of the push rod will have the rod-end-bearings to help in
> converting the rotational arc movement of the servo to a liner
> movement for the aileron push rods.
> From all I can see ... YES ... It will also handle the forward and
> back rock of the stick.
> So, what is my question(s)?
> 1 - Is the Hex Rod HOLLOW?
> 2 - From what I can ROUGHLY measure it is 9/16" from flat to flat.
> And since all the stress in longitudinal do you feel that drilling
> and tapping a 1/4 - 28 thread in the Hex Rod is acceptable?
> 3 - If your answer to Q2 is NO then what method of connection do
> you recommend?
>
If the screw that connects the servo's rod end to the flight controls
is too small, it may fail. This disables the autopilot, but leaves
you with normal flight controls. If it is too big the hex rod may
fail, and this may lead to a flight control jam, if the loose end of
hex rod catches on something. Given the consequences of either
failure, I'd much rather bias the probable failures towards a failure
of the connection to the servo's control rod, rather than towards a
failure of the hex rod that connects the sticks.
I suggest you use a smaller rod end, such that you would only need to
drill and tap a 3/16" hole in the hex rod, or smaller. As a point of
reference, the Navaid devices wing leveler servo uses tiny rod ends
that go over #5 screws (about 1/8" diameter) at the servo control arm
and at the flight controls, and I have never heard of a problem. So
you could get by with a much smaller connection both than 1/4", if
you can find a suitable combination of hardware.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. |
John,
Is it leaking at the spacer plate? Do you have the spacer plate in
place?
Dale Ensing
do not achieve
Woodward oil leak Help..
Has any one that has Vans Woodward governor,had oil leaks
around the 1/4 mounting studs to the unit..Even after replacing
with new gasket,there is oil coming out at the studs at 2000 rpm
or more!!I know that there is a lot of pressure this unit puts out,
but I really do not want to send it out to be checked if anyone has
had this same problem..It has only about 130 hrs on it..
Anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
John McMahon (RV6 C/S 180)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Position of the battery in the RV8 |
I'm currently adding my Trio Avionics altitude hold servo in the back of
my RV8. I've got the batteries in the back, and I can tell you that it
does add a bit of complexity to the installation of the servo. Just
something else to think about...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. |
Dale
Well it is leaking at the 10 o'clock stud and moving back and pooling
in a small depression just past the nut..The spacer plate did leak a
little,but removed and installed with new gasket..I have been chasing
this leak since I installed the new eng and governor,and got mad and
said this is going to stop!!It will only show up at the 2000 and operate
the CS some and out it comes...I sure hate to have to send it off for
$320.00 to check it out..I am going to try to call Woodward tomorrow..
Thanks
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Ensing
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 1:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor..
John,
Is it leaking at the spacer plate? Do you have the spacer plate in
place?
Dale Ensing
do not achieve
Woodward oil leak Help..
Has any one that has Vans Woodward governor,had oil leaks
around the 1/4 mounting studs to the unit..Even after replacing
with new gasket,there is oil coming out at the studs at 2000 rpm
or more!!I know that there is a lot of pressure this unit puts out,
but I really do not want to send it out to be checked if anyone has
had this same problem..It has only about 130 hrs on it..
Anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
John McMahon (RV6 C/S 180)
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. |
IIRC there is supposed to be a gasket on BOTH sides of the spacer.
John Mcmahon wrote:
> *Dale*
> *Well it is leaking at the 10 o'clock stud and moving back and pooling*
> *in a small depression just past the nut..The spacer plate did leak a*
> *little,but removed and installed with new gasket..I have been chasing*
> *this leak since I installed the new eng and governor,and got mad and
> said this is going to stop!!It will only show up at the 2000 and
> operate the CS some and out it comes...I sure hate to have to send it
> off for $320.00 to check it out..I am going to try to call Woodward
> tomorrow..*
> * Thanks*
> * John*
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Dale Ensing <mailto:densing@carolina.rr.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 19, 2006 1:37 PM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor..
>
> John,
> Is it leaking at the spacer plate? Do you have the spacer plate in
> place?
> Dale Ensing
> do not achieve
>
>
> *Woodward oil leak Help..*
> *Has any one that has Vans Woodward governor,had oil leaks*
> *around the 1/4 mounting studs to the unit..Even after replacing*
> *with new gasket,there is oil coming out at the studs at 2000 rpm*
> *or more!!I know that there is a lot of pressure this unit
> puts out,*
> *but I really do not want to send it out to be checked if
> anyone has*
> *had this same problem..It has only about 130 hrs on it..*
> * Anyone have any ideas???*
> * Thanks*
> * John McMahon (RV6 C/S 180)*
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fw: Woodward Prop govenor.. |
I have a rebuilt Woodward gov that works fine. Leaked at one time, but a
new gasket fixed it.
You've witnessed it squirt out at that location? It can't be coming from
something up higher on the accessory case and leaking down? Just a
thought....sometimes it's hard to tell......
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com <http://bowenaero.com/>
_____
From: Dale Ensing [mailto:densing@carolina.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2006 2:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Woodward Prop govenor..
John,
Is it leaking at the spacer plate? Do you have the spacer plate in place?
Dale Ensing
do not achieve
Woodward oil leak Help..
Has any one that has Vans Woodward governor,had oil leaks
around the 1/4 mounting studs to the unit..Even after replacing
with new gasket,there is oil coming out at the studs at 2000 rpm
or more!!I know that there is a lot of pressure this unit puts out,
but I really do not want to send it out to be checked if anyone has
had this same problem..It has only about 130 hrs on it..
Anyone have any ideas???
Thanks
John McMahon (RV6 C/S 180)
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RV-List
Message 13
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| Subject: | RE: RV Wanted - T18 For Sale |
Hey Tim its not an RV but a IFR Side By Side award winning T-18. Check It
out!=0A=0Ahttp://www.geocities.com/jahajek/t18forsale.html=0A =0A=0AN51XP
RV-8=0AJerry Hajek Jr. ATP, CFII, MEI=0A=0AVisit The Lone Star Squadron at:
=0Ahttp://www.lonestarsquadron.com=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----
=0AFrom: Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com>=0ATo: rv-list@matronics.com=0ASent:
Sunday, November 19, 2006 7:22:22 AM=0ASubject: RV-List: RV-wanted=0A=0A
=0A =0AI have a friend who is looking to purchase an RV-6, 7, or 9. Basic
VFR and affordable is all that is needed. If anybody knows of one, please
contact me off list=0A =0ADo Not Archive=0A =0AThanks=0ATim Bryan =0ARV-6
N616TB=0A=0A
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: [RV-8] Clearance between oil cooler and engine mount? |
Kevin,
I have a scant 1/4 in. clearance between the body of my cooler and the engine mount
after grinding away most of the cooler flange in a semi circle near the
engine mount. As a precaution I installed a short length of breather hose over
the mount at the potential contact point which reduced the clearance to about
1/8 in. So far I have not seen any evidence of contact.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 289 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> The oil cooler is mounted on the baffle, so it moves with the
> engine. I've reworked it a bit to get somewhere between 1/4" and
> 9/32". There is no way to get much more than that without a complete
> redesign of the mounting arrangement. My mount is more complex than
> most, as it incorporates a sliding door to control the incoming air
> flow. I don't want to redo the mount if I don't need to.
>
> I've had several responses from people who had 3/16" to 1/4"
> clearance with no reported problems, so I'm going to try out what
> I've got. The cooler is aluminum, and the mount is steel, so I don't
> think any contact will hurt the mount, other than damage the paint.
> Obviously repeated contact wouldn't be good for the cooler, so I'll
> pay close attention to this area until I have some time on the aircraft.
>
> Thank you very much to everyone who responded.
>
> Kevin
>
>
> On 17 Nov 2006, at 17:14, David Brand wrote:
>
> > Kevin,
> > Is your cooler mounted on your baffle so that it moves with the
> > engine,
> > or is it a stationary mount as in attached to your engine mount? If
> > the
> > former, depending how far out from the center line of the engine it
> > is,
> > I`d give it at least half an inch, more if you can get it. If
> > stationary,
> > I think the existing 3/16 should be OK. Dave Brand N254LF
> >
> > --- Kevin Horton wrote:
> >
> >> The oil cooler on my IO-360-A1B6 is hung a bit aft of the baffles on
> >> the left side, and I don't have a lot of clearance between the oil
> >> cooler flange and the engine mount. I have trimmed the flange to get
> >> about 3/16" clearance between the oil cooler and engine mount, but
> >> wonder if that is enough. I'd appreciate any advice from those with
> >> flying aircraft.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> >> Ottawa, Canada
> >> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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