Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:37 AM - Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... (Matt Dralle)
1. 05:28 AM - Re: Short (Low Profile) Avionics (glen matejcek)
2. 09:33 AM - Re: baffle rubber height (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com)
3. 10:08 AM - Re: Short (Low Profile) Avionics (Ed Holyoke)
4. 10:26 AM - Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty)
5. 11:13 AM - Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Dale Walter)
6. 11:44 AM - Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Ed Holyoke)
7. 11:54 AM - Navaid Autopilot for sale (Wernerworld)
8. 12:31 PM - Navaid Autopilot for sale - SOLD (Wernerworld)
9. 12:48 PM - Re: Re: baffle rubber height (Ron Lee)
10. 03:06 PM - Re: Re: baffle rubber height (Dale Ensing)
11. 03:12 PM - Re: Re: baffle rubber height (BusinessBroker@aol.com)
12. 07:46 PM - Re: Re: baffle rubber height (Mike Kraus)
13. 07:49 PM - Auto Pilot adjustment (Tim Bryan)
14. 07:50 PM - For unsubscription (Tim Bryan)
15. 08:09 PM - Re: Auto Pilot adjustment (Ron Lee)
16. 08:24 PM - Re: Auto Pilot adjustment (Tim Bryan)
17. 08:43 PM - Re: Auto Pilot adjustment (Tim Bryan)
18. 09:30 PM - Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (MLWynn@AOL.COM)
19. 09:36 PM - Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 0
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Subject: | Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response
has been very good, but we are behind last year in the number of people that have
made a Contribution and as a percentage of the total number of subscribers.
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser.
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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Subject: | RE: Short (Low Profile) Avionics |
Howdy Roger-
>Little space remains for radio stacks.
>What are the shortest audio panels, txpdrs, and Nav/Coms?
>
>Roger
You might consider Becker face mounted coms and xpdr, as well as a PSE
audio panel. They aren't thin rectangles, but they do take up very little
acreage in a square pattern. The VAL all in one VOR/LOC/GS/MB unit puts
the radio behind the indicator, saving more acreage. You can make a tall,
narrow stack with these, among other configurations. Using these radios
I've been able to build a redundant, IFR panel for my -8 with panel space
left over.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 2
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Subject: | re: baffle rubber height |
I posted this same question on the Vans Airforce forum a few days ago. The
responses I got indicated the seal material should stick up about 1.5
inches upon completion. Im not passing judgement either way, but 1.5
inches is quite a bit different than 4 inches.
Dale, could you tell us how far your seal extended above the baffles
AFTER final trimming? No sense in wasting more material than necessary,
and from what I hear, its not like Van's gives you a surplus to work with.
thanks,
Erich Weaver
Message 3
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Subject: | Short (Low Profile) Avionics |
Roger,
The shortest audio panel is no audio panel at all. I bundled all my
audio sources together, with 100 ohm resistors to prevent backfeeding
them, into the intercom. I control the volume of each at the individual
unit. I also split the com 1 audio to a failsafe headset jack in case
the intercom should fail. I have a switch to determine which com radio
transmits when the PTT is pushed. It works great. I think Van refers to
this setup as the poor man's audio panel.
The SL-30 from Garmin is 1.3" tall, IIRC. It is a very capable Nav/Com
which is supported by the Dynon equipment for HSI display. That would
allow you to get by without a Nav head if you want to save the space and
expense of a
3 1/8" round instrument. The SL-30 allows you to monitor the backup com
frequency which is almost like having a second com. It also displays the
bearing to the backup VOR (if tuned and receiving a signal) so it's
almost like having 2 Navs.
There are several 2 1/4" round transponders available, but the SL-70 has
been discontinued, unfortunately.
Another option would be to remake your panel with the oversize panel
from Van's. It's only about $40.
A note on the Dynons. I don't know if redundancy is important to you,
but if you go with the D-180 and a D100, you would have redundant flight
instruments and could save the space of backup steam gauges.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lapsley R &
Sandra E Caldwell
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 4:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Short (Low Profile) Avionics
<lrsecaldwell@earthlink.net>
I just starting the instrumrent panel for and RV-7. I have laid oit
cutouts for D100 and EMS120. Little space remains for radio stacks.
What are the shortest audio panels, txpdrs, and Nav/Coms?
Roger
Message 4
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Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt
on the RV9 bell crank for the aileron. I think this should be done with
my drill press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please
let me know what you think and how you did it. Thanks.
Jim
Message 5
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Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I would use a lathe. There should be someone nearby that would be glad to
help you, does not have to be an airplane builder. Or a machine shop would
not charge much.
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at
Lakes & Leisure Realty
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 1:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt on
the RV9 bell crank for the aileron. I think this should be done with my
drill press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please let me
know what you think and how you did it. Thanks.
Jim
Message 6
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Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Use a reamer in a hand held drill, with lubricant at very low speed. You
can clamp it in a vise with padded jaws. Reams are available at
Cleaveland, Brown, Avery and machine tool dealers.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at
Lakes & Leisure Realty
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt
on the RV9 bell crank for the aileron. I think this should be done with
my drill press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please
let me know what you think and how you did it. Thanks.
Jim
Message 7
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Subject: | Navaid Autopilot for sale |
Just posted to Ebay:
Navaid AP-1 Autopilot
Ebay Item number: 150065454154
Message 8
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Subject: | Navaid Autopilot for sale - SOLD |
Sold!
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: re: baffle rubber height |
>
>I posted this same question on the Vans Airforce forum a few days ago. The
>responses I got indicated the seal material should stick up about 1.5
>inches upon completion. Im not passing judgement either way, but 1.5
>inches is quite a bit different than 4 inches.
On my RV-6A, O-360 the baffle material extends up about 1 & 1/8 inch on the
sides and front and 1.5 inches on the back.
Ron Lee
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: re: baffle rubber height |
Sorry guys, I can't give you a final after triming dimension as mine is not
the same in all location. 4 inches was the STARTING dimension. As I said,
the rubber seals overlap the metal baffle by about 1 inch which leaves 3
inches. From there I trimed to fit. For example, in the corners near the
firewall I used waxed lacing cord to "sew" the corners together after
forming a curve in the corner of the baffle seals to meet the cowl. Here I
probably used the full three inches remaining. In other places, such as
around the front ramps in the top cowl, they are less then 1.5 inches.I did
do more triming after the flying for a few hours when I could see better how
the seals were seating against the cowl.
You can start out with less than 4 inches. You just have less to play with
in the final fit..
I did use Van's baffle kit and had material remaining when I was finished.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: <Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: re: baffle rubber height
>
>
> I posted this same question on the Vans Airforce forum a few days ago.
> The
> responses I got indicated the seal material should stick up about 1.5
> inches upon completion. Im not passing judgement either way, but 1.5
> inches is quite a bit different than 4 inches.
>
> Dale, could you tell us how far your seal extended above the baffles
> AFTER final trimming? No sense in wasting more material than necessary,
> and from what I hear, its not like Van's gives you a surplus to work with.
>
> thanks,
>
> Erich Weaver
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: re: baffle rubber height |
In a message dated 11/29/2006 5:08:35 P.M. Central Standard Time,
densing@carolina.rr.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
PLEASE how do I get off your list. Some how, I got registered and continue
to receive. ow do I opt out???
Message 12
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Subject: | re: baffle rubber height |
I've done 3 sets of baffles (RV-4, RV-7, RV-10) cut them all 3" wide
with about 1.25" below the baffle top and 1.75" above the baffle top.
If you go much thicker, I can't imagine you'd have enough material.
Van's has it calculated down to the square inch it seems.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: re: baffle rubber height
I posted this same question on the Vans Airforce forum a few days ago.
The responses I got indicated the seal material should stick up about
1.5 inches upon completion. Im not passing judgement either way, but
1.5 inches is quite a bit different than 4 inches.
Dale, could you tell us how far your seal extended above the baffles
AFTER final trimming? No sense in wasting more material than
necessary, and from what I hear, its not like Van's gives you a surplus
to work with.
thanks,
Erich Weaver
Message 13
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Subject: | Auto Pilot adjustment |
Hi Listers,
When I installed the servo for my auto pilot (trio), I thought I had
neutralized the stick and the servo. When I activate the unit during flight
the stick is moved to the left more than I would let it go. I realize now
that I need to adjust the rod, but how does one get the stick in a neutral
(as in flight) position? Is this going to be a trial and error situation?
For those that have done this, how is the best way to get the servo
connected. I would like to think I can engage it in level flight with the
heading set to my current heading and it will not try to turn me right away?
I at least think it should not more bank me more than a degree or two for
variation in the heading.
Thanks for any help
Tim
Message 14
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Subject: | For unsubscription |
How about go here and unsubscribe?
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Do Not Archive
Tim
RV-6
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BusinessBroker@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: re: baffle rubber height
In a message dated 11/29/2006 5:08:35 P.M. Central Standard Time,
densing@carolina.rr.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
PLEASE how do I get off your list. Some how, I got registered and continue
to receive. ow do I opt out???
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Auto Pilot adjustment |
ON THE GROUND.... secure the ailerons in the neutral position.
Make any non-powered adjustments and follow the Trio instructions.
Verify proper sensing of the servo (reverse or normal). See the
instructions. I know that it is genetically hard to do but sometimes
overcoming milenia of not reading instructions can be helpful.
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Message 16
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Subject: | Auto Pilot adjustment |
The main part of the question Ron was about where is neutral to a degree
accurate enough to set it in this position. I know where neutral is when
flying, but don't know how to mark that for after I land.
Thanks for your comments; I did read the manual however. Maybe a reread is
in order.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:09 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot adjustment
>
>
> ON THE GROUND.... secure the ailerons in the neutral position.
> Make any non-powered adjustments and follow the Trio instructions.
>
> Verify proper sensing of the servo (reverse or normal). See the
> instructions. I know that it is genetically hard to do but sometimes
> overcoming milenia of not reading instructions can be helpful.
>
> Ron Lee
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Auto Pilot adjustment |
OK, I admit after re reading the trio instructions, all the info is there.
Thanks for setting me straight.
Tim
Do Not Archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:09 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot adjustment
>
>
> ON THE GROUND.... secure the ailerons in the neutral position.
> Make any non-powered adjustments and follow the Trio instructions.
>
> Verify proper sensing of the servo (reverse or normal). See the
> instructions. I know that it is genetically hard to do but sometimes
> overcoming milenia of not reading instructions can be helpful.
>
> Ron Lee
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Hi Jim
I tried using a reamer in my drill press. Mucked it up pretty well. I went
to my riveting buddy who is an amateur machinist. We used the reamer on a
metal lath. Very slick and perfectly round. However, that was sort of
overkill. The bolt really just needs to be down the bushing, fairly centrally.
The actual bearing surface is the outside of the bushing against the inside of
the bellcrank. So, having a perfectly reamed interior is not really crucial.
What is crucial is that you don't scrape up the exterior of the bushing
while trying to hold it still to ream the interior.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Fuselage
San Ramon, California
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I've used a standard reamer backing it thru the bushing, shaft end first,
then chuck up to something you can turn at hand speed as you back ream the
bushing.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 822hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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