Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:27 AM - Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! (Matt Dralle)
1. 06:11 AM - Re: Auto Pilot adjustment (Richard Seiders)
2. 09:10 AM - ADI Pilot (John Furey)
3. 09:10 AM - stick rigging (Wheeler North)
4. 09:13 AM - Fuel vents (John Furey)
5. 09:39 AM - Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Joe & Jan Connell)
6. 09:47 AM - Re: Fuel vents (Walter Tondu)
7. 10:04 AM - Removing white plastic -- any new news? (Joe & Jan Connell)
8. 10:25 AM - Re: Fuel vents (hangerq)
9. 10:29 AM - Re: ADI Pilot (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
10. 11:04 AM - Torqueing AN-818 flare fittings (Gerry Filby)
11. 11:58 AM - Re: Torqueing AN-818 flare fittings (Brian Meyette)
12. 12:14 PM - Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Bob Collins)
13. 01:25 PM - Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Brad Oliver)
14. 01:42 PM - Re: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Gerry Filby)
15. 02:10 PM - Re: stick rigging (Tim Bryan)
16. 02:23 PM - Re: Fuel vents (LarryRobertHelming)
17. 02:39 PM - Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Bob Collins)
18. 02:54 PM - Re: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Jim Sears)
19. 03:01 PM - Re: stick rigging (LarryRobertHelming)
20. 03:59 PM - Re: Fuel vents (Kyle Boatright)
21. 04:00 PM - Re: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Dan Checkoway)
22. 05:21 PM - Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Ralph Hoover)
23. 06:42 PM - Re: Fuel vents (Tim Bryan)
24. 07:10 PM - Re: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing (Dale Ellis)
25. 07:42 PM - Re: Fuel vents (frank goggio)
26. 08:26 PM - Re: Fuel vents (glaesers)
27. 08:34 PM - Re: Removing white plastic -- any new news? (Finn Lassen)
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| Subject: | Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Well, its November 30th and that means three things...
1) Today I am now officially 43 years old... (arg...)
2) It marks that last "official" day of the List Fund Raiser!
3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year! :-)
If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and
no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support
their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way
to further the List operation and keep the bills paid.
I will be posting the List of Contributors next week, so make sure your name is
on it! :-)
Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly
appreciated.
List Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Auto Pilot adjustment |
Tim, as I recall if you set the servo arm to the desired position it
will be stick neutral. What I found is that my trio does not work
well with a Bendix GPS (89B). Trio told me there might be a problem
with that gps so took their advice and use the course setting vs. gps.
GPS , in my case causes ap to hunt for the signal which creates a
wandering from left to right, and back. Course setting works
perfectly, and you can adjust 1 degree at a time to allow for wind
diection effect. I have used course settings on 200 mile legs and
made only several adjustments depending on winds.
Dick RV6A
At 10:48 PM 11/29/2006, you wrote:
>
>Hi Listers,
>
>When I installed the servo for my auto pilot (trio), I thought I had
>neutralized the stick and the servo. When I activate the unit during flight
>the stick is moved to the left more than I would let it go. I realize now
>that I need to adjust the rod, but how does one get the stick in a neutral
>(as in flight) position? Is this going to be a trial and error situation?
>For those that have done this, how is the best way to get the servo
>connected. I would like to think I can engage it in level flight with the
>heading set to my current heading and it will not try to turn me right away?
>I at least think it should not more bank me more than a degree or two for
>variation in the heading.
>Thanks for any help
>Tim
>
>
Message 2
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I am thinking of replacing my turn coordinator and Digitrak with a TruTrak
ADI pilot. I love my DigiTrak and have had GREAT service from TruTrak but I
have not spoken to anyone who has actually installed and used the ADI pilot
so I am looking for anyone with real experience.
Thanks
John Furey
RV6A
Message 3
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Umm,
although it sounds like you answered your question Tim here are some
guidelines to rigging.
Set the stick to neutral by having the aircraft in the leveled condition,
and use an analog or digital level to get it straight up on roll axis and,
if I remember right, five degrees top forward in the pitch axis for
RV-6s(look it up or invent it for your aircraft).
Lock it in place.
Put the controls in the neutral condition and lock in place.
Put any bell cranks, including the trio servo, in the neutral condition and
lock in place.
Then adjust all push rods, cables etc. to correctly fit.
If the plane then doesn't fly in level it means the fixed surfaces are not
correct, or that there is a force upsetting the neutral condition of the
control surfaces as in the trailing edge issue with the ailerons or an
unbalanced fuel load causing the ailerons to need to be something other than
neutral to stay level.
But that all said it matters not to your question. If your trio ez pilot
display head is attached anywhere close to square to the aircraft along the
roll axis (level in the panel) it won't care where neutral is. It will just
move the ailerons to where the plane stops turning. As well, if you are
skidding (ball not centered) this will put the plane at an angle to counter
the turning being caused by yaw which is also known as the auto-slip feature
for those few of us with in-cockpit adjustable rudder trim.
However there is a place in the setup to tell it where neutral is by
adjusting it electronically until the ailerons are in the location you
happen to know as causing level flight. (For me this happens to be when the
ailerons are equal with the flaps and wing tips and the fuel load is equal,
and this should be true for most aircraft, at least those that have flaps,
wing tips, ailerons and fuel)
But, from what a little birdie told me the other day, you'ld be amazed at
how many never actually adjust this centered value because the unit works
fine without it being adjusted. I went and set mine to something other than
the default center of 7500 just in case that birdie ever checks to see if I
properly calibrated the unit prior to test flying. (This of course also
takes into account the belief that I wouldn't be believed if I were to say
that my plane is built so hot damn accurately, therefore I don't need no
stinking calibration.)
W
Message 4
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I saw that someone had recommended keeping the fuel tank vent in the wing
root by winding a couple turns of the tubing and exiting the lower
intersection fairing thereby not having to enter the cockpit and do all that
plumbing. Anyone with experience on this???
Thanks
John Furey
RV7 QB
Message 5
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| Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Hi Jim,
When I did mine (it's been a few years) I initially put
the bushing material in the drill press (hand tighten only.)
I had marked the approximate length with the Sharpie pen.
The drill was run at a slow speed and the Sharpie mark
was visible as it turned. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off
wheel (one of those with a fiberglass mesh imbedded to keep
the wheel from coming apart. Once this was done I lowered
the bushing onto some emery paper to square and polish the
end.
If the bolt would not fit in the bushing I would use a de-burring tool
to make sure there was no ridge at either end. The bushing was placed
in a padded vise and a reamer was slowly run through the bushing.
I used a reamer on the bellcrank to insure the hole was true
after is was welded and powder-coated. If the bronze bushing
was tight I would put a bolt through the bushing and mount
the bolt in the drill press chuck (hand tighten.) I'd run the
drill a little faster and use some emery paper to as a tool to
remove a bit from the gushing. I could do a trial fit with the
bellcrank
while the bushing was still in the drill press...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A FAB and carb fitting
Message 6
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On 11/30 12:13, John Furey wrote:
> I saw that someone had recommended keeping the fuel tank vent in the wing
> root by winding a couple turns of the tubing and exiting the lower
> intersection fairing thereby not having to enter the cockpit and do all
> that plumbing. Anyone with experience on this???
I believe this is commonly done on Rockets. You might check that
list if you don't get info here.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
Message 7
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| Subject: | Removing white plastic -- any new news? |
Gentlemen;
I've trolled through the archives for ideas how to remove
the white plastic from aluminum. A heat gun works if I
carefully score the plastic in 1" - 2" wide strips with a razor;
heat the skin with a heat gun; and slowly pull the plastic.
I've tried a towel soaked with mineral spirits and applied
overnight. There is a bit of separation around the edges
of the plastic from the aluminum. The plastic is too brittle
to pull up. Yet in one area the plastic cleanly separated from
the aluminum. I can take a new single edge razor and
shave off the plastic but leave fine scratches over the whole
area. The razor is nearly parallel to the to the skin when
I do this. The scratching is minor but I can see and feel it.
(It might be equivalent to the scuffing before painting or a
little deeper.
I haven't pursued the Jasco graffiti remover product - I suspect
it could be pretty messy.
Do you have any newer ideas?
Joe Connell
RV-9A FAB and Carb
Message 8
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john.i did what you are talking about also a friend did the same in his
6,i have a 6a and he has the 6,we both used three turns or coils in the
wing root,large coils,to just where they will fit inside the root with
fairing covering them,ty them together with nyon tys and secure them to
keep viberation down,drill a hole in the wing fairing and run the drain
out the bottom, no problem with this so far with either of us,ymmv for
whats its worth,
frank goggio rv6a
Message 9
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JOHN, THIS IS JUST MY OPINION AS I KNOW OTHERS FEEL DIFFERENTLY. AFTER 46
YEARS AND & 23,000 + HOURS BEHIND THE ARTIFICIAL HORIZON, I PUT THE ADI IN OUR
7A AS BACK UP TO THE DYNON 10A. I ENDED UP REPLACING IT WITH AN ELECTRIC
HORIZON AS MY OLD GRAY MATTER JUST DID NOT DO WELL WITH THE ADI. IT IS VERY
DIFFERENT, BUT WITH TIME AND PRACTICE MAY WORK FINE FOR SOME FOLKS. I AM JUST
MORE COMFORTABLE WITH WHAT I HAVE BEEN USING, PARTICULARLY WHEN IFR.
REGARDS,
DOUG PRESTON
RV7A N196VA
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
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| Subject: | Torqueing AN-818 flare fittings |
I've found the torque limits table in AC43.13 for setting the
torque on AN818 flare nuts. There are 2 section one for
aluminum tubing and one for steel.
Lets take the example of the oil lines from the oil cooler to
the engine in the RV-9 firewall forward kit. They supply
aluminum 45 degree pipe-to-flare fittings for the oil cooler
and what I think are steel hoses to connect to the engine.
Where the hose connects to the 45 degree fitting on the oil
cooler should I use the chart for aluminum or steel ?
Similarly my firewall bulkhead fittings for the fuel lines are
aluminum, but the ends of the Stratoflex hoses are steel -
which torque chart governs - the alum or steel ?
(I just know someone is going to say "Change all the alum
fittings for steel ones and use the steel table" :-/)
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Torqueing AN-818 flare fittings |
In my opinion (and practice) you want to torque to the lower of the 2
possible values when you have mixed steel and aluminum. This is because one
of the 2 halves of the nut/fitting has aluminum threads, and you don't want
to overstress them by using steel torque values
Example - steel nuts on Teflon oil lines, aluminum oil cooler thermostat:
http://brian76.mystarband.net/engineOct06.htm#oct31
brian
RV-7A working on Eggenfellner engine & related components
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 2:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Torqueing AN-818 flare fittings
I've found the torque limits table in AC43.13 for setting the
torque on AN818 flare nuts. There are 2 section one for
aluminum tubing and one for steel.
Lets take the example of the oil lines from the oil cooler to
the engine in the RV-9 firewall forward kit. They supply
aluminum 45 degree pipe-to-flare fittings for the oil cooler
and what I think are steel hoses to connect to the engine.
Where the hose connects to the 45 degree fitting on the oil
cooler should I use the chart for aluminum or steel ?
Similarly my firewall bulkhead fittings for the fuel lines are
aluminum, but the ends of the Stratoflex hoses are steel -
which torque chart governs - the alum or steel ?
(I just know someone is going to say "Change all the alum
fittings for steel ones and use the steel table" :-/)
__g__
=========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
--
5:07 AM
--
5:07 AM
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to ream out the bushing.
And I held it with a pair of pliars after wrapping it with a cloth. I don't
think I got it perfectly centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt
to slip in nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it on the
Scotchbrite Wheel (fine). I'm sure the ways suggested would yield a perfect
result, but I've seen nothing in the operation of the bellcrank as installed
to indicate I've created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method. Of
course, the plane isn't flying yet.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78236#78236
Message 13
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| Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I haven't done this yet, so I should probably just keep my head down and
my mouth shut, but it is a slow day at work. ;-) Here is what I am
*thinking* of doing when the time comes, which should be very soon. It
may seem convoluted, but it should only take a few minutes. Please,
somebody tell me I am crazy, or shoot holes in my proposed method. ;-)
1. On the the drill press, drill a small (3" square or so) scrap piece
of wood with drill bit that is equal to or slightly smaller than the OD
of the bushing. If you have a drill press vise, this step may not be
necessary.
2. Cut the wood in half bisecting the circle you just drilled
3. Insert bushing between pieces of wood and clamp (in drilled hole).
Cutting the wood in half should have removed enough material to allow
you to clamp the bushing so it won't move, if not, sand away some of
the wood along where you just cut to allow it to clamp the bushing.
4. Locate a drill bit that is equal to the ID of the bushing, and insert
it into the drill press (hopefully it is a common size).
5. Put the clamped bushing assembly onto drill press table and crank
down the bit (while drill press is off) into the bushing to center the
clamped bushing assembly on the drill bit, then while the bit is
holding the assembly centered, clamp the the assembly to the table.
6. Release the handle and remove the bit, then insert the appropriate
reamer and ream away. Theoretically, the reamer should be centered
perfectly (I hope).
If someone is brave enough to try this before I get to it, please let me
know how it works out. :-)
Cheers,
Brad Oliver
RV-7 | Livermore, CA
www.RV7Factory.com
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: RV-List: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
> From: "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty@tds.net>
> Date: Wed, November 29, 2006 10:25 am
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>
>
> What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt on the
RV9 bell crank for the aileron. I think this should be done with my drill
press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please let me know what
you think and how you did it. Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
It is worth getting this right - because you follow a very
similar process in the fuselage kit for the control stick
bushing. I goofed mine up trying to use a regular drill bit in
drill press. The upshot is that my control stick wobbles
around like a p**** in a bucket. Needless to say I'll be
re-doing the bushing shortly.
I think the idea behind the reamer in an hand drill is that the
existing hole in the bushing will "guide" the reamer into a
coaxial position, I think :)
g
>
>
> I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to
> ream out the bushing. And I held it with a pair of pliars after
> wrapping it with a cloth. I don't think I got it perfectly
> centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt to slip in
> nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it
> on the Scotchbrite Wheel (fine). I'm sure the ways suggested
> would yield a perfect result, but I've seen nothing in the
> operation of the bellcrank as installed to indicate I've
> created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method. Of
> course, the plane isn't flying yet.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
> http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78236#78236
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 15
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Hi Wheeler,
Thanks for the comments. I found in the Trio manual where I could adjust it
on the ground and then fine tune it in flight. That would be most
beneficial. Part of my problem is I do still have a heavy left wing and
according to Van's I should not fix it until after I have had somebody in
the right seat. I have yet to fly off my 40 hours and so can't do that yet.
I would be reluctant to squeeze my aileron until I have added weight in the
right seat with equal fuel. I ferried my plane from Oregon to Texas and
would have really enjoyed having the auto pilot working.
I was trying to think ahead on this deal and out thought myself I think. I
couldn't wrap my mind around how I was going to duplicate the stick position
once on the ground, but didn't realize (or remember) that I could fine
adjust within the setup of the Trio.
Thanks again for the input, appreciated
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:10 AM
> To: 'rv-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: stick rigging
>
>
> Umm,
>
> although it sounds like you answered your question Tim here are some
> guidelines to rigging.
>
> Set the stick to neutral by having the aircraft in the leveled condition,
> and use an analog or digital level to get it straight up on roll axis and,
> if I remember right, five degrees top forward in the pitch axis for
> RV-6s(look it up or invent it for your aircraft).
>
> Lock it in place.
>
> Put the controls in the neutral condition and lock in place.
>
> Put any bell cranks, including the trio servo, in the neutral condition
> and
> lock in place.
>
> Then adjust all push rods, cables etc. to correctly fit.
>
> If the plane then doesn't fly in level it means the fixed surfaces are not
> correct, or that there is a force upsetting the neutral condition of the
> control surfaces as in the trailing edge issue with the ailerons or an
> unbalanced fuel load causing the ailerons to need to be something other
> than
> neutral to stay level.
>
> But that all said it matters not to your question. If your trio ez pilot
> display head is attached anywhere close to square to the aircraft along
> the
> roll axis (level in the panel) it won't care where neutral is. It will
> just
> move the ailerons to where the plane stops turning. As well, if you are
> skidding (ball not centered) this will put the plane at an angle to
> counter
> the turning being caused by yaw which is also known as the auto-slip
> feature
> for those few of us with in-cockpit adjustable rudder trim.
>
> However there is a place in the setup to tell it where neutral is by
> adjusting it electronically until the ailerons are in the location you
> happen to know as causing level flight. (For me this happens to be when
> the
> ailerons are equal with the flaps and wing tips and the fuel load is
> equal,
> and this should be true for most aircraft, at least those that have flaps,
> wing tips, ailerons and fuel)
>
> But, from what a little birdie told me the other day, you'ld be amazed at
> how many never actually adjust this centered value because the unit works
> fine without it being adjusted. I went and set mine to something other
> than
> the default center of 7500 just in case that birdie ever checks to see if
> I
> properly calibrated the unit prior to test flying. (This of course also
> takes into account the belief that I wouldn't be believed if I were to say
> that my plane is built so hot damn accurately, therefore I don't need no
> stinking calibration.)
>
> W
>
>
>
Message 16
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In making a change in the design of the vent as described, I wonder if
that would be an issue with insurance coverage or with a future buyer of
the plane if it came to be a problem contributor and it wasn't disclosed
beforehand? I just did not see the present design being a problem
with installing it per the plans and the revision does not appear to
improve the performance, so what is the purpose of changing Van's
design?
----- Original Message -----
From: hangerq
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vents
john.i did what you are talking about also a friend did the same in
his 6,i have a 6a and he has the 6,we both used three turns or coils in
the wing root,large coils,to just where they will fit inside the root
with fairing covering them,ty them together with nyon tys and secure
them to keep viberation down,drill a hole in the wing fairing and run
the drain out the bottom, no problem with this so far with either of
us,ymmv for whats its worth,
frank goggio rv6a
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Sure, but I guess my point is, what is right? Like I said, I did it a quick way
at the time -- I didn't have a drill press, nor a set of reamers -- and it came
out OK and the control stick bushings came out the same way. As near as I can
tell, there's no binding that's occurring, the bolt fits in snugly, but fits
and everything seems OK. I'd certainly be interested in how others - especially
old-timers - have approached this part.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78267#78267
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
>> Sure, but I guess my point is, what is right? Like I said, I did it a
>> quick way at the time -- I didn't have a drill press, nor a set of
>> reamers -- and it came out OK and the control stick bushings came out the
>> same way. As near as I can tell, there's no binding that's occurring, the
>> bolt fits in snugly, but fits and everything seems OK. I'd certainly be
>> interested in how others - especially old-timers - have approached this
>> part.<<
I didn't have a lathe or reamers, either. I put mine in a vice, started
with a bit that just barely cut metal, and increased bits in size by a
little on each drill pass until the hole was just big enough for the bolt to
pass through nicely. My process took several passes per bushing. I also
drilled out the weldment to allow the bushing to fit inside that. So far,
I've done this on three RVs with no problems.
Now, to add another twist, so to speak. My IA buddy told me the preferred
method for the bushing is to make the bushing stationary in the weldment and
allow the assembly to rotate around the bolt. That way, the bolt wears out
instead of the weldment. That's what I did in my first RV. I did the more
popular method of letting the bushing rotate in the last two. Which is
better, I have no idea. It will probably take more than my lifetime to
prove either out. Both work smoothly; and, I guess that's the main thing.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Fuselage on hold due to pure laziness.)
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: stick rigging |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 4:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: stick rigging
>
> Hi Wheeler,
>
> SNIP Part of my problem is I do still have a heavy left wing and
> according to Van's I should not fix it until after I have had somebody in
> the right seat. I have yet to fly off my 40 hours and so can't do that
> yet.
SNIP>
> Thanks again for the input, appreciated
> Tim
>
Tim, while in the 40 hour flight testing you could securely strap in a
couple or three 60 lb. bags of sand in the co-pilot seat. You can use the
sand later in the baggage area to test that dimension for max. gross weight.
It is common to have a heavy left wing. It should go away as you burn fuel
from the left wing and it becomes lighter. If you do squeeze the aileron
after trying all the other things first, do the squeezing ever so lightly
and test fly it over and over squeezing, flying, squeezing, flying, etc. It
is easy to over do the squeeze and have a heavy right wing. The perfect
balance is ever so delicate. Larry in Indiana
Message 20
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Once the policy is written, you're covered as long as you didn't
intentionally misrepresent your aircraft. There are variations from
Van's standards on every aircraft, whether the variations are gross
weight limits, an extra rivet here or there, or (heaven forbid) another
solution to the fuel vent installation.
As far as liability goes, as the builder, you have the risk of being
sued if the airplane ever crashes, regardless of whether the airplane
was built exactly to plan or not.
As long as the system works, and it is up to the builder to determine if
it works, the liability and insurance problems are no better or worse
than with any other RV.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryRobertHelming
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vents
In making a change in the design of the vent as described, I wonder if
that would be an issue with insurance coverage or with a future buyer of
the plane if it came to be a problem contributor and it wasn't disclosed
beforehand? I just did not see the present design being a problem
with installing it per the plans and the revision does not appear to
improve the performance, so what is the purpose of changing Van's
design?
----- Original Message -----
From: hangerq
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vents
john.i did what you are talking about also a friend did the same in
his 6,i have a 6a and he has the 6,we both used three turns or coils in
the wing root,large coils,to just where they will fit inside the root
with fairing covering them,ty them together with nyon tys and secure
them to keep viberation down,drill a hole in the wing fairing and run
the drain out the bottom, no problem with this so far with either of
us,ymmv for whats its worth,
frank goggio rv6a
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Bob,
You done good. Press on.
This is one of those items where obsessing over a clean hole is irrelevant.
The stick/bellcrank rotates around the stationary brass bushing, AS PER
PLANS (RV-7[A]). The hole through the middle of the bushing can be ratty
and burry and all that and it doesn't make a bit of difference. If you can
get a bolt through, you're done.
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 2:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
>
> Sure, but I guess my point is, what is right? Like I said, I did it a
> quick way at the time -- I didn't have a drill press, nor a set of
> reamers -- and it came out OK and the control stick bushings came out the
> same way. As near as I can tell, there's no binding that's occurring, the
> bolt fits in snugly, but fits and everything seems OK. I'd certainly be
> interested in how others - especially old-timers - have approached this
> part.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
> http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78267#78267
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | RE: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Brad,
I have used your method many times prior to owning a lathe with one
variation. Make the block longer about 4 x 1.5 x 3/4, cut the slot first
and then clamp the slot closed. Now drill your hole = to the bushing OD,
now when you un-clamp the block the bushing will fit and can be clamped
tight. If the saw kerf is too wide just clamp it partially closed
prior to drilling (a piece of thin cardboard helps). Now proceed as you
describe.
Good luck.
Ralph Hoover
RV7A (wiring)
Message 23
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Well, if it works then it works. My question would be how to keep fuel out
of the vent line. With the stock design, if you bank steep or do aerobatics
will fuel enter the vent and then run back to the tank because of the height
in the vent? With coils could you get fuel in the coil and have it not run
back thereby blocking the vent? Just a question, but sounds like a
reasonable thing to do. Fuel inside is almost unavoidable with the valve
design.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of hangerq
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vents
john.i did what you are talking about also a friend did the same in his 6,i
have a 6a and he has the 6,we both used three turns or coils in the wing
root,large coils,to just where they will fit inside the root with fairing
covering them,ty them together with nyon tys and secure them to keep
viberation down,drill a hole in the wing fairing and run the drain out the
bottom, no problem with this so far with either of us,ymmv for whats its
worth,
frank goggio rv6a
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I too, used a hand drill to ream out the bushings. Except, I hand held the bushing
while wearing a leather glove. The bushings ended up looking decent considering
the crude method!
Dale Ellis, building a RV-8 and 2 bids, one check-ride and 91 days from retirement
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Collins <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>Sent: Nov 30, 2006 3:13 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
>
>
>I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to ream out the bushing.
And I held it with a pair of pliars after wrapping it with a cloth. I
don't think I got it perfectly centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt
to slip in nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it on
the Scotchbrite Wheel (fine). I'm sure the ways suggested would yield a perfect
result, but I've seen nothing in the operation of the bellcrank as installed
to indicate I've created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method.
Of course, the plane isn't flying yet.
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
>http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78236#78236
>
>
Message 25
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tim.all i can tell you on the coils for vents is that they work,i have a
small bevel cut slanted to the front and the air pressure seems to keep
excess fuel from leaking out,as far as aerobatics are concerned,the test
pilot that did the test flight on mine,did all the positive stuff that
he could think off,some on the first flight,and a lot on the second
flight,never a problem,the only time i see fuel leaking out is when i
leave it to full of fuel,i may be speaking out of turn,but i believe my
friend spoke to someone at vans about this, and was told it was
ok,unless i was dreaming this,sure was a lot easier to install then the
plans drawing,works for me,
frank goggio rv6a
do not archive
Message 26
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Remember that the engine is (hopefully) constantly drawing fuel from the
tank, and the air to replace the fuel comes in through the vent. So as long
as the engine is running, there is a constant flow of air into the tank
through the vent.
Fuel doesn't flow out the vent from the unused tank even during maneuvers
because it is (again, hopefully) sealed and there is no air coming in to
allow the fuel to flow out the vent - similar to dipping a tube into liquid,
then holding your finger over the end and pulling it out.
Fuel can not 'block' the vent, it just flows in or out depending on the
relative pressure inside the tank vs. outside air pressure. The loops in
the Rocket style vent are there so that, under normal circumstances, there
is not enough fuel in the line to over-fill it, and spill fuel overboard.
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A - wiring my panel, waiting for my Eggenfeller H6 - wings have the
Rocket style vents installed.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
From: Tim Bryan (n616tb@btsapps.com)
Well, if it works then it works. My question would be how to keep fuel out
of the vent line. With the stock design, if you bank steep or do aerobatics
will fuel enter the vent and then run back to the tank because of the height
in the vent? With coils could you get fuel in the coil and have it not run
back thereby blocking the vent? Just a question, but sounds like a
reasonable thing to do. Fuel inside is almost unavoidable with the valve
design.
Tim
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Removing white plastic -- any new news? |
After soaking in meneral spirits overnight I still had to use a plastic
spatula in some areas.
The mineral spirits makes the difference between impossible, and
feasible to scrape it off.
If you scrape some strips then soak again overnight the mineral spirits
has a better chance of getting under the plastic.
Finn
Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Gentlemen;
>
> I've trolled through the archives for ideas how to remove
> the white plastic from aluminum. A heat gun works if I
> carefully score the plastic in 1" - 2" wide strips with a razor;
> heat the skin with a heat gun; and slowly pull the plastic.
>
> I've tried a towel soaked with mineral spirits and applied
> overnight. There is a bit of separation around the edges
> of the plastic from the aluminum. The plastic is too brittle
> to pull up. Yet in one area the plastic cleanly separated from
> the aluminum. I can take a new single edge razor and
> shave off the plastic but leave fine scratches over the whole
> area. The razor is nearly parallel to the to the skin when
> I do this. The scratching is minor but I can see and feel it.
> (It might be equivalent to the scuffing before painting or a
> little deeper.
>
> I haven't pursued the Jasco graffiti remover product - I suspect
> it could be pretty messy.
>
> Do you have any newer ideas?
>
> Joe Connell
> RV-9A FAB and Carb
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
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