Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:12 AM - Re: Long legged passenger (Kyle Boatright)
2. 07:36 AM - Re: plugging hole at rear of cylinders (Walter Tondu)
3. 07:40 AM - Re: plugging hole at rear of cylinders (Tim Bryan)
4. 08:02 AM - Re: Long legged passenger (Wesley T Robinson)
5. 09:57 AM - Re: Hanging Elevators (Jim Oke)
6. 10:34 AM - Re: plugging hole at rear of cylinders (LarryRobertHelming)
7. 01:44 PM - Plugging hole at rear of cylinders (James H Nelson)
8. 01:46 PM - Plugging hole at rear of cylinders (James H Nelson)
9. 03:01 PM - Re: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders (Ron Lee)
10. 04:20 PM - Re: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders (Terry Watson)
11. 04:48 PM - Re: Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots (Neil)
12. 10:26 PM - Clear glop/jelly appearing in your fuel system ?? (Gerry Filby)
13. 10:47 PM - Re: Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots (Terry Watson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Long legged passenger |
I had someone 6'3 in my RV-6 for a 6 hour out and back trip in one day. He
didn't have any problems.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Long legged passenger
>
> Smitty,
> What model are you building?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> ---- Smitty <smitty@smittysrv.com> wrote:
>>
>> One of long legged buddies asked me if he was going to fit in my RV when
>> I
>> get it built. Since I haven't gotten that far yet I didn't know what to
>> tell
>> him. How "adjustable" are the seats and/or rudder pedals?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Smitty
>> http://SmittysRV.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Fill all those gaps with red RTV.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
Message 3
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| Subject: | plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Hi Charlie,
It is almost impossible to get to this spot without removing stuff. I
suspect it would have been difficult to do when building the baffles in the
first place, but would have been possible. I would like to just squirt some
silicone in there, but I think the opening is too big for it to stay put.
Possibly I could get some duct tape on the bottom of it, fill it with
silicone and removing the tape after it sets up.
I was wondering if it made sense to stuff something in there to close it up
but feel it is a little too hokey for me. Surely I am not alone on this.
Maybe this hole is insignificant with regards to cooling, but it is the
biggest hole in my upper pressure area. With cylinder head temps well above
400 degrees in the winter, I need to find something to change.
Thanks
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:33 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: plugging hole at rear of cylinders
>
>
> Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Hi Listers,
> >
> >I have mentioned about my high CHT's and got lots of replies. I am
> working
> >on the front area around the inlets and upper ramps based on those
> replies.
> >However, I found something else to be addressed. At the back side of
> >cylinder #3 right next to the case where the back baffle is. There is a
> >hole that goes straight down not where the fins are but where the #3
> >cylinder is bolted to the case. It looks like there is a tab on the
> bottom
> >of the rear baffle metal that was to be bent up. I can't bend this now
> >because it contacts the case and much work to remove the whole thing for
> >trimming.
> >
> >There is another hole on the other side next to cylinder #2. It looks
> like
> >it might be too big to just use silicone in there, what are other
> options?
> >What have others done in this area?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tim Bryan
> >RV-6
> >0-360 A1A
> >
>
> Can you cut an oversize 'doubler' that will extend far enough to fill
> the gap? Pop rivet to the existing baffle material.
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Long legged passenger |
I have an RV-9A and am 6'6" and have done six straight with no problems.
Wesley T Robinson
WR Consulting
www.wtrconsulting.net
EAA 731 Web/Newsletter Editor
'The Red Baron' RV-9A N224WR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Long legged passenger
--> <kboatright1@comcast.net>
I had someone 6'3 in my RV-6 for a 6 hour out and back trip in one day. He
didn't have any problems.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Long legged passenger
>
> Smitty,
> What model are you building?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> ---- Smitty <smitty@smittysrv.com> wrote:
>>
>> One of long legged buddies asked me if he was going to fit in my RV when
>> I
>> get it built. Since I haven't gotten that far yet I didn't know what to
>> tell
>> him. How "adjustable" are the seats and/or rudder pedals?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Smitty
>> http://SmittysRV.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Hanging Elevators |
Hi;
The "notch" for the elevator balance horns which is cut in the
horizontal stab skins is intentionally made undersize so some "trim to
fit" is necessary to provide clearance for the counterbalance weights.
Having said this, a full 15/16" overlap seems rather excessive. Are
your elevator counterbalance horns per the plans? The forward dimension
is larger controlled by the E-713 skin pieces. I hope I am not pointing
out the obvious but the counterbalance weights do nest inside the skins
and are not bolted on the front of the E-713 skins.
The attached photo is of an RV-6 which uses a similar elevator
counterbalance arm arrangement and shows the typical "trim needed"
situation.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Bill Settle wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I'm doing the initial fit of the elevators to the horizontal on my -8. The instructions
say to ensure the elevators swing freely with no interference...
Both elevators' counterbalance arms extend forward into the horizontal skins 15/16"
and I cannot figure out why. I have rechecked the rod bearing centerline
measurement to the spar and have exactly 13/16" as per the plans. I saw on
Dan's site that he had to trim the right skin to allow the right elevator to
swing, so I am tempted to do the same. However, I'm concerned that if mine are
too far forward that I won't be able to get the elevators to balance. Any insight
would be appreciated.
>
> Bill Settle
> Winston-Salem, NC
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Dear Tim: Sorry I don't have an answer for an easier fix. The correct long
term fix -- as painful and time consuming as it may seem to be -- is to
remove the baffling, make the bend(s) to eliminate the hole so you can get
good cooling and put it back together. Probably a day's or two task at
most. Filling a large hole with RTV or some other non metal material will
be subject to deterioration over time with the heat and vibration going on
in the engine area.
Best wishes. Indiana Larry.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: plugging hole at rear of cylinders
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> It is almost impossible to get to this spot without removing stuff. I
> suspect it would have been difficult to do when building the baffles in
> the
> first place, but would have been possible. I would like to just squirt
> some
> silicone in there, but I think the opening is too big for it to stay put.
> Possibly I could get some duct tape on the bottom of it, fill it with
> silicone and removing the tape after it sets up.
>
> I was wondering if it made sense to stuff something in there to close it
> up
> but feel it is a little too hokey for me. Surely I am not alone on this.
> Maybe this hole is insignificant with regards to cooling, but it is the
> biggest hole in my upper pressure area. With cylinder head temps well
> above
> 400 degrees in the winter, I need to find something to change.
>
> Thanks
> Tim
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Hey Walter
There is a new high temp RTV from Permatex. Its Grey in color
and matches my primer on my baffles. It has the same high temp rating of
the red stuff. This way it doesn't look bad when you apply it around the
gaps. It blends in nicely. Check your auto supply store as they have a
grey and a black and I believe they both are now high temp. The "Ultra
Grey" (p/n 82194 or 599BR) is rated for 625 deg F.
I found the gap on my #3 cyl. before I RTV'd it in place. I
tried to look around every nook and cranny to fine out where air could
bypass. I also found out the spacer / bolt that holds the rear baffle on
the #4 cyl side also had to be RTV'd. I however had it done when I found
that area. So I got our a long stemmed flat screw driver and put little
dabs of RTV on it and placed it down in the area to fill it up and stop
as much gap as I could.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A FWF
Message 8
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| Subject: | Plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Tim,
Also don't forget to close off the area under the "upper" fiber
glass inserts that we glass in on the upper cowl. Air can bypass from
the pressure area over into the low pressure area of the cowl.
Jim Nelson
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
>
> Also don't forget to close off the area under the "upper" fiber
>glass inserts that we glass in on the upper cowl. Air can bypass from
>the pressure area over into the low pressure area of the cowl.
I checked this on mine (RV-6A, O-360)and see no way that air can move from
the high
pressure to low pressure side.
Ron Lee
Message 10
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| Subject: | Plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
I think this depends on exactly how you do the baffle seals at the front of
the engine. With mine it was obvious that it was going to be a huge leak of
pressure, so I glassed off one end of the inserts. I then looked at a
friends very similar setup, but he did the seals differently and sealing the
ends of the insert wasn't necessary.
Terry
RV-8A Aerosport Power O-360-B1B 180 hp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders
>
> Also don't forget to close off the area under the "upper" fiber
>glass inserts that we glass in on the upper cowl. Air can bypass from
>the pressure area over into the low pressure area of the cowl.
I checked this on mine (RV-6A, O-360)and see no way that air can move from
the high
pressure to low pressure side.
Ron Lee
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
Here's a set up that looks pretty good and has some good reviews from
motorcycle road racers (of which I am one) for rear view use. Unfortunately
it's about 600 bucks for the camera and monitor. www.themotocam.com
<http://www.themotocam.com/>
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots
Terry,
I found the post interesting because I have been looking for a small screen
TV monitor for a special instrument project. If it will display a standard
TV formatted video signal (NTSV?), then I would like to display various
things like trim and flap positions and digital tach, and some other things
I can't think of right now. I know how to use old Motorola microprocessor
chips to do those things. Would love to feed video to my GPS 295 if anyone
knows how. Would probably have to be hacked to get the source code. Garmin
wouldn't like that!
Does someone on the list know of a small (2 or 3 inch) color monitor that
could be used for above project?
Did the $100 combo have a color monitor?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Oh, do not archive .
In a message dated 12/2/2006 3:22:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
terry@tcwatson.com writes:
OK, I move that Michael be excused from any mandatory requirement that this
group adopts to require all tailwheel RV's to have video monitoring of
anything.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Clear glop/jelly appearing in your fuel system ?? |
.. this was a recent thread about a clear gelatinous substance
appearing someone's fuel filters ?? Did you ever figure out
what it was ?
Today I was calibrating the fuel gauges on my RV-9, endless
pouring of 2 gallon increments ... etc, you know the drill.
And then I started to notice this clear jelly deposit
collecting around the the stem of the funnel .. very strange
.. if you put a chunk of it to one side it would gradually
evaporate ... I can only imagine that its some part of the fuel
that evaporates at a different rate ... ?
This fuel came straight from the self-serve tank at KHAF.
Did you ever figure out what the deal was ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
Mickey, Dan, anyone else who is interested:
I did buy and install the little video camera & screen from Costco for
$90.00. I put it on my pickup as a back-up assist. The quality seems just
fine, and installation was especially easy, except for the crimp-on wire
taps that cut my truck's wiring and I had to take the gizmos off and solder
things back together.
The camera is in a plastic bracket that doubles as the top or bottom half of
a license plate frame. The wire comes out of that and hooks into the back-up
light circuit for the vehicle, so the camera is only powered when the
back-up lights are, or typically when the vehicle is in reverse. The wire is
also the broadcast antenna for the camera so it has a tag on it telling you
not to cut it off shorter than the location of the tag.
The receiver has a cigarette lighter plug or a hard wired cord; both are in
the box. There is a swivel holder for the screen and Velcro self-stick pads
to fasten either the swivel holder or the screen by itself to the vehicle.
It works on the same frequency as some cordless phones. I think I picked up
a stores security camera picture on the screen at one intersection I went
through tonight. I doubt that this would be a problem for anyone. I just
hadn't turned off the screen to see if it would pick up anything. It did.
I measured the little molded plastic box that the screen is mounted in but
forgot to write the dimensions down. If anyone needs it, I can go measure it
again and write it down this time. I think it was 3+" wide by 2+" tall by
7/8" thick; very light weight. The specs say the screen is 1-1/2". A bigger
screen in a smaller box would be better, of course, but this isn't bad, and
it's a clean design. You won't want to mount it too far away from your eyes.
The one concern I would have for it as the forward vision for a tail wheel
aircraft is that the camera lens is quite wide angle. This is great for a
back-up assist, but it might be too wide-angle for that blind spot some of
us are worried about. It would be very hard to judge distance by looking at
the screen, but I doubt if you would want to use it for that much precision
anyway.
The screen is in color and the image is quite clear but distorted as through
a fish-eye lens. Interference from other electronics MIGHT be a problem; I
don't know. As for it causing problems with your avionics, just turning off
the camera and receiver would be easy and should solve that. The whole
system must weigh much less than a pound; it's quite light but I didn't
weigh it.
One very helpful feature of the receiver is that you have four possibilities
for the picture; right side up mirror image; right side up straight image;
upside down mirror image, or upside down not mirrored. You sequence through
the four settings with the only control button besides the power button.
This means that you could either install it as a back-up assist as I did and
set it so it reads like you were looking in a mirror, or as a forward view
enhancer without having to mentally interpolate what you are seeing.
I'm sure some will find lots of uses for this gadget or variations of the
concept. If this one serves your purpose, it is a well thought out and
manufactured system for an attractive price.
For the record: Manufacturer is VR3, model number is VRBCS300W. Costco has
it for $90; Wal-Mart for about $100. On line it's advertised for up to $170.
Terry
> I think I have convinced myself to buy one for my pickup. Gee, it even
> says it's made for RV's!
Terry, Please let us know how it works. It sounds like an excellent
safety enhancer.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
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