Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:36 AM - Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available (Larry Mac Donald)
2. 08:28 AM - SL15 Intercom problem (Tim Bryan)
3. 09:31 AM - Continuation on High CHT problem (Tim Bryan)
4. 09:41 AM - Re: Engine timing (Konrad L. Werner)
5. 10:07 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Kyle Boatright)
6. 10:08 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Ron Lee)
7. 10:11 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Ron Lee)
8. 10:27 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
9. 11:25 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Tim Bryan)
10. 11:25 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Tim Bryan)
11. 11:27 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Tim Bryan)
12. 11:30 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Tim Bryan)
13. 12:03 PM - WTB RV8 (consider RV7) (Guy Cole)
14. 12:23 PM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Ron Lee)
15. 12:36 PM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
16. 01:23 PM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Walter Tondu)
17. 01:58 PM - Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available (pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper))
18. 02:04 PM - Re: Engine timing (Steve Struyk)
19. 02:13 PM - Re: High CHT problem - Hole found (Tim Bryan)
20. 02:27 PM - responsible (Wheeler North)
21. 02:28 PM - 12 step (Wheeler North)
22. 02:35 PM - Matched hole (Wheeler North)
23. 02:39 PM - PT6 (Wheeler North)
24. 03:16 PM - Re: Engine timing (LarryRobertHelming)
25. 03:52 PM - Re: High CHT problem - Hole found (Walter Tondu)
26. 04:24 PM - Re: Engine timing (Kelly McMullen)
27. 04:32 PM - Tapping flap pushrod (Ralph E. Capen)
28. 04:50 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Tim Bryan)
29. 04:57 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Bob Collins)
30. 04:57 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (LarryRobertHelming)
31. 05:00 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Dan Checkoway)
32. 05:00 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
33. 05:05 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
34. 05:09 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Ralph E. Capen)
35. 05:13 PM - Re: 12 step (sportypilot)
36. 05:29 PM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Kevin Horton)
37. 06:32 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Tim Bryan)
38. 06:37 PM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (dick martin)
39. 09:53 PM - Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
I could be wrong---,but, I believe I heard that the FAA had written
papers to mitigate this regulation for one or a few CFI,s training in
sixes.
Larry Mac Donald
lm4@juno.com
Rochester N.Y.
Do not archive
On Sat, 09 Dec 2006 08:32:43 -0700 Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net> writes:
I almost hesitate to mention this, but I'm curious how you get around the
"No person may operate this aircraft for carrying persons or property for
compensation or hire" clause in the operating limitations?
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | SL15 Intercom problem |
Hi folks,
I have finally got around to having two people in my airplane with headsets
on. I have no intercom at all. I have the SL15M with jacks wired to the
panel. There are two PTT buttons wired off the jacks. One is on the panel
(co-pilot) the other on the stick for the pilot. My headsets are Bose.
There is no side tone in the headset unless you press the PTT button. I am
reading something in the SL15 installation book about when the PTT are
installed between the jack and the headset where it would need to be
modified. I am not real good at this stuff, so not sure what is going on.
Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.
Tim
RV-6
N616TB
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
solutions.
After plugging every possible hole I could find in my baffling here are
the
results. Yesterday was quite cool here in East Texas and a flight was
in
order. After take off I climbed over the lake at the end of the runway
and
noticed the CHT on # 3 was over 400. By the time I reached 2500=92 AGL
the
temp was at 446 degrees so I leveled off and allowed it to settle out.
After a few minutes the temps came down to about 406 but was about the
same
on 2, 3, and 4. I landed and removed the top cowl so I could block off
the
oil cooler by about =BD of the distance exposed. After another short
flight
the temps did not go above 412 on climb and then about 402 on cruise.
The
big difference was now cylinder #4 is the hottest. The oil temp climbed
from around 154 to 182 so this was positive for this time of year. My
oil
cooler is mounted to the back baffle on the left side of the engine.
I am at a bit of a loss for why the temps will not come down. One of
the
solutions offered was to add louvers to my lower cowl to increase exit
air
area. I am willing to do this but have some reservations. Increasing
exit
air would increase air flow through the cowl but should increase drag
and
therefore performance. How significant would this be? Obviously I
would be
willing to give up a little performance if I can keep it cool. Also it
seems odd that hundreds, maybe thousands of RV=92s are flying and
staying cool
enough without louvers and so I wonder what else I may be leaving
unchecked.
I am convinced I have no leaks at this point. Here is what I have done:
Closed up all leaks in baffling especially around the front and around
the
upper ramps.
Added a deflector in front of cylinder # 1
RTV around every crack or seam where air could exit
Plugged a big hole between the case and #3 in front of dipstick housing
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling air
from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
My baffle is very tight and I see no areas where there could be a leak.
I
do notice the area above the cylinder on the right side is much less
since
the cylinder is further forward and under the upper ramp. Maybe this
could
be modified to raise the upper ramp some and equal this out.
Because my temps change accordingly when I takeoff, cruise, and land I
think
the probes are at least responding. I also think since blocking the oil
cooler caused a change and now #4 is hottest indicates they must be
working.
There is no setting on these that I am aware of, but maybe I should have
the
system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify they are reading
correctly.
Thanks for any help
Tim
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine timing |
Steve,
What happens if one uses one (or two) Lightspeed Electronic Ignitions
with their variable timings (and therefore potential power enhancement).
I mean the whole thing about EI is the flexibility in timing versus a
fixed magneto. Does that mean anyone using an LSE may risk blowing a
jug off of an IO-360 by producing to much power/ -combustion pressure?
Konrad
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly McMullen
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine timing
Small explanation of why you have to reference the data plate.
Lycoming
about 30 years ago had a problem with cylinder heads flying off of a
few
IO-360s with very old cylinders, in cold weather, where the engine was
producing more than rated power. So they decided to retard the timing
for IO360s from 25 to 20, which meant the impulse coupling or retard
breaker also had to be advanced 5 degrees so you still start at TDC.
They did this through a Service Instruction.
I don't know that they changed anything for the 8.5 compression
engines
like the O-360. On most newer IO360s you will find 20 degrees called
for, but older ones take 25(and produce more power).
Steve Struyk wrote:
> List,
>
> I just did my first annual condition inspection. When I checked the
> timing I referenced the Lycoming Operators Manual, under
> specifications, and set the timing to the 20 degrees that it called
> for. On a ground test run I was not happy with the way it ran and
> suspected the timing was incorrectly set. A search of the list
> archives and a check of the Lycoming web site offered no help.
So...I
> made a quick call to Lycoming and the advice I got was "what does it
> say on the data plate"? Duh! I felt a bit stupid but there it was,
> plain as day, "25 degrees".
>
> I just wanted to get this in the archives so the next guy won't have
> the same problem.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, 74 hours
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Tim,
What speeds are you using for climb out?
How many hours on your engine?
Which engine do you have, and which airframe?
Apologies if you've posted all of this information previously.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
solutions. After plugging every possible hole I could find in my
baffling here are the results. Yesterday was quite cool here in East
Texas and a flight was in order. After take off I climbed over the lake
at the end of the runway and noticed the CHT on # 3 was over 400. By
the time I reached 2500' AGL the temp was at 446 degrees so I leveled
off and allowed it to settle out. After a few minutes the temps came
down to about 406 but was about the same on 2, 3, and 4. I landed and
removed the top cowl so I could block off the oil cooler by about =BD of
the distance exposed. After another short flight the temps did not go
above 412 on climb and then about 402 on cruise. The big difference was
now cylinder #4 is the hottest. The oil temp climbed from around 154 to
182 so this was positive for this time of year. My oil cooler is
mounted to the back baffle on the left side of the engine.
I am at a bit of a loss for why the temps will not come down. One of
the solutions offered was to add louvers to my lower cowl to increase
exit air area. I am willing to do this but have some reservations.
Increasing exit air would increase air flow through the cowl but should
increase drag and therefore performance. How significant would this be?
Obviously I would be willing to give up a little performance if I can
keep it cool. Also it seems odd that hundreds, maybe thousands of RV's
are flying and staying cool enough without louvers and so I wonder what
else I may be leaving unchecked. I am convinced I have no leaks at this
point. Here is what I have done:
Closed up all leaks in baffling especially around the front and around
the upper ramps.
Added a deflector in front of cylinder # 1
RTV around every crack or seam where air could exit
Plugged a big hole between the case and #3 in front of dipstick
housing
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling
air from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
My baffle is very tight and I see no areas where there could be a
leak. I do notice the area above the cylinder on the right side is much
less since the cylinder is further forward and under the upper ramp.
Maybe this could be modified to raise the upper ramp some and equal this
out.
Because my temps change accordingly when I takeoff, cruise, and land I
think the probes are at least responding. I also think since blocking
the oil cooler caused a change and now #4 is hottest indicates they must
be working. There is no setting on these that I am aware of, but maybe
I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify
they are reading correctly.
Thanks for any help
Tim
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
>If you have verified the probe monitor for accuracy I would do that.
I had high oil temps and CHT and opening the cowl and adding
louvers dropped them a lot. I doubt that any speed reduction
is measurable.
Obviously check in to other factors (mag timing etc).
Ron Lee
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
>
>Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling air
>from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
I also had two heater muffs with the flow blocking scat tubes.
That was my first change (remove the extra heater muff and tubes) and that
helped as well.
Ron Lee
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
In a message dated 12/10/2006 11:33:56 AM Central Standard Time,
n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify they
are reading correctly.
>>>
I don't recall if you mentioned it earlier, but have you checked the probes
in boiling water to see if they read around 212F? Pretty sure you could heat
some oil hotter and dip the tips of the probes into it (verify with
cooking/candy thermometer). I've never tried this, but sound reasonable?
Might also try blocking one or both of the heat muffs- these are normally
huge short-circuits around your baffles if they flow all the time- far more than
all those little leaks you plugged up.
Mark
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
Hi Kyle,
I use 110 Mph on climb out
I have 24 hours on my RV-6
O-360 A1A with Hartzell constant speed
No problem
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
Tim,
What speeds are you using for climb out?
How many hours on your engine?
Which engine do you have, and which airframe?
Apologies if you've posted all of this information previously.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan <mailto:n616tb@btsapps.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
solutions.
After plugging every possible hole I could find in my baffling here are
the
results. Yesterday was quite cool here in East Texas and a flight was
in
order. After take off I climbed over the lake at the end of the runway
and
noticed the CHT on # 3 was over 400. By the time I reached 2500=92 AGL
the
temp was at 446 degrees so I leveled off and allowed it to settle out.
After a few minutes the temps came down to about 406 but was about the
same
on 2, 3, and 4. I landed and removed the top cowl so I could block off
the
oil cooler by about =BD of the distance exposed. After another short
flight
the temps did not go above 412 on climb and then about 402 on cruise.
The
big difference was now cylinder #4 is the hottest. The oil temp climbed
from around 154 to 182 so this was positive for this time of year. My
oil
cooler is mounted to the back baffle on the left side of the engine.
I am at a bit of a loss for why the temps will not come down. One of
the
solutions offered was to add louvers to my lower cowl to increase exit
air
area. I am willing to do this but have some reservations. Increasing
exit
air would increase air flow through the cowl but should increase drag
and
therefore performance. How significant would this be? Obviously I
would be
willing to give up a little performance if I can keep it cool. Also it
seems odd that hundreds, maybe thousands of RV=92s are flying and
staying cool
enough without louvers and so I wonder what else I may be leaving
unchecked.
I am convinced I have no leaks at this point. Here is what I have done:
Closed up all leaks in baffling especially around the front and around
the
upper ramps.
Added a deflector in front of cylinder # 1
RTV around every crack or seam where air could exit
Plugged a big hole between the case and #3 in front of dipstick housing
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling air
from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
My baffle is very tight and I see no areas where there could be a leak.
I
do notice the area above the cylinder on the right side is much less
since
the cylinder is further forward and under the upper ramp. Maybe this
could
be modified to raise the upper ramp some and equal this out.
Because my temps change accordingly when I takeoff, cruise, and land I
think
the probes are at least responding. I also think since blocking the oil
cooler caused a change and now #4 is hottest indicates they must be
working.
There is no setting on these that I am aware of, but maybe I should have
the
system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify they are reading
correctly.
Thanks for any help
Tim
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
iga
tor?RV-List
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
I was thinking about the timing issue. It runs great, but I have not
checked it. Honestly it has been so long since I have done this I am not
sure I remember how. I may need to find someone to give me a refresher and
check it.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
If you have verified the probe monitor for accuracy I would do that.
I had high oil temps and CHT and opening the cowl and adding
louvers dropped them a lot. I doubt that any speed reduction
is measurable.
Obviously check in to other factors (mag timing etc).
Ron Lee
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
My heater outlets are a series of holes about 3/8 inch. I have maybe 5 or 6
of them in the baffle, plus the heat muff has smaller holes to slow the air
down. I blocked the outlet on the right side behind #3 with tape and it
made no difference. I could block the other one for a test.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling air
from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
I also had two heater muffs with the flow blocking scat tubes.
That was my first change (remove the extra heater muff and tubes) and that
helped as well.
Ron Lee
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
No, I haven't but suppose it would be viable. Do the probes respond the
same in water as they would in just the air? This would be a valid test I
think. I did block one heat muff robbing air outlet with no change.
Thanks
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
In a message dated 12/10/2006 11:33:56 AM Central Standard Time,
n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify they
are reading correctly.
>>>
I don't recall if you mentioned it earlier, but have you checked the probes
in boiling water to see if they read around 212F? Pretty sure you could
heat some oil hotter and dip the tips of the probes into it (verify with
cooking/candy thermometer). I've never tried this, but sound reasonable?
Might also try blocking one or both of the heat muffs- these are normally
huge short-circuits around your baffles if they flow all the time- far more
than all those little leaks you plugged up.
Mark
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | WTB RV8 (consider RV7) |
Hello, I would like to buy a nice day/night IFR capable RV-8 to fly
while my own project assembles itself (or some other miracle).
I was thinking 180HP, fuel injected, constant speed, nice radios.
Also consider RV-7, but I'm a big guy and that probably won't work out.
Email description, price and pix to guycole@gmail.com
Thanks for reading.
--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Guy Cole (KQ6J) * "Expert Plain And Fancy Bit Twiddling"
"Part of the thundering herd of computer nerds in Silicon Valley, USA"
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
At 12:27 PM 12/10/2006, you wrote:
>My heater outlets are a series of holes about 3/8 inch. I have maybe 5 or
>6 of them in the baffle, plus the heat muff has smaller holes to slow the
>air down. I blocked the outlet on the right side behind #3 with tape and
>it made no difference. I could block the other one for a test.
Did you remove the tubing. That impedes the efficient flow of air.
Another point is that your engine may not be broken in yet.
Ron Lee
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
In a message dated 12/10/2006 1:31:58 PM Central Standard Time,
n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
Do the probes respond the same in water as they would in just the air?
I would think that besides the heat transferring more quickly from the liquid
to the probe than from air, the probe would never know. Besides, having the
probe and themometer in a common container of liquid fairly well ensures they
are at the same approximate temp.
I would suggest caution how deep into the liquid you immerse the probe since
I'm not familiar with how they are sealed- just part of the metal barrel on
the end of the probe in the liquid should suffice. Possibly heat a very small
pan of peanut/canola/corn/whatever oil ("you put my good candy themometer in
USED MOTOR OIL?!?!?!") and heat until 400-425 degrees or so as indicated by the
themometer. A meat thermometer would probably work as well. Take it over to
engine where you already have the probe dangling and just dip the first
half-inch or so into the oil. I'd think you'd have it warmed up to oil temp in
20-30 seconds, but again, I've never tried this- someone else out there could
probably offer more specific advice.
Mark
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Have you seen this post I made in June regarding the solution to
my High CHT problems. Check out the poll results...
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8209
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
". . . a lawyer would have a field day"
No, a greedy loved one who hired that lawyer to represent them. Lawyers
can't start lawsuits on their own, their clients are the ones who decide
to sue someone.
Pete Cowper
RV-8 #81139
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine timing |
Sorry, you're asking the wrong guy. I'm clueless about electronic
ignition. My original post did not mention it but I'm running an
O-360-A1A with dual Mags. (old school I guess) In response to my post
(it's in the archives) a Mr. Kelly McMullen seemed to be very
knowledgeable on the subject. Perhaps he could enlighten those of you
with electronic ignition.
Steve Struyk
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine timing
Steve,
What happens if one uses one (or two) Lightspeed Electronic Ignitions
with their variable timings (and therefore potential power enhancement).
I mean the whole thing about EI is the flexibility in timing versus a
fixed magneto. Does that mean anyone using an LSE may risk blowing a
jug off of an IO-360 by producing to much power/ -combustion pressure?
Konrad
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly McMullen
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine timing
Small explanation of why you have to reference the data plate.
Lycoming
about 30 years ago had a problem with cylinder heads flying off of a
few
IO-360s with very old cylinders, in cold weather, where the engine
was
producing more than rated power. So they decided to retard the
timing
for IO360s from 25 to 20, which meant the impulse coupling or retard
breaker also had to be advanced 5 degrees so you still start at TDC.
They did this through a Service Instruction.
I don't know that they changed anything for the 8.5 compression
engines
like the O-360. On most newer IO360s you will find 20 degrees called
for, but older ones take 25(and produce more power).
Steve Struyk wrote:
> List,
>
> I just did my first annual condition inspection. When I checked
the
> timing I referenced the Lycoming Operators Manual, under
> specifications, and set the timing to the 20 degrees that it
called
> for. On a ground test run I was not happy with the way it ran and
> suspected the timing was incorrectly set. A search of the list
> archives and a check of the Lycoming web site offered no help.
So...I
> made a quick call to Lycoming and the advice I got was "what does
it
> say on the data plate"? Duh! I felt a bit stupid but there it was,
> plain as day, "25 degrees".
>
> I just wanted to get this in the archives so the next guy won't
have
> the same problem.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, 74 hours
> *
>
>
> p; -- Please Support Your Lists This Month (And Get the Annual
link Free * AeroElectric http://www.matronics.com/c Thank you for your
generous bsp; -Matt Dralle, List nbsp;
Navigator
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
====================
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | High CHT problem - Hole found |
Walter,
Yes, I did see this and I looked at it determining I did not have this
problem. I redid the baffles on a little around this front area and again
determined for what ever reason this did not apply to me. After getting
your post and looking at it I understood a little better what you were
indicating. I just went out and stuck my hands up there and just felt
around for a couple minutes. Son of a gun, I do have a leak here, mostly on
the left side of the engine. How did I miss this? Thanks again. I will be
doing some glass work tomorrow. I know this has been brought up several
times, but if this does the trick, I owe you something cold whenever I meet
you.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 3:22 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
>
>
> Have you seen this post I made in June regarding the solution to
> my High CHT problems. Check out the poll results...
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8209
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
> http://www.evorocket.com - Building
>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Well,
I was going to do that and give him the finders fee but Vans won't give one
for repeat offenders.
I will however let anyone buy me an engine, as long as it's an aircraft
engine that isn't a boat anchor.
;{)
do not archive
Time: 08:49:18 AM PST US
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Start
W,
If Mr. Lervolds fine website has finally pushed you over the edge, then
you should hold him somewhat responsible for your dilemma, don't you
think?
What punishment do you have in mind for Randy??? Perhaps you can make
him buy you an engine for your future -3!!! That sounds just fair,
don't you think?
K.
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
G,
yes, but you only have to do 7 of the steps as that constitutes 51%.
;{)
Time: 04:53:26 AM PST US
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/08/06
Hey Wheeler-
>... I just received another tail kit for to start all over yet again...
Have you considered a 12 - step program... ; - )
And no, do not archive!
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
<<<<<<<
One thing though. Don't be too hard on those folks who think matched hole
construction is the only way to build an airplane. There is something to be
said for easing tedium and simplifiying a parts count.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thx Rick,
The one thing about matched hole building that I don't like is it eliminates
the use of about 60% of the cool fangled tools I own. As well, the plans are
so accurate, with no gross errors and ommissions to spend hours/years
wondering about. Heck I got to spend the morning in deep contemplation about
two deminsion call outs that had the arrows and attach lines but no
deminisions.
do not archive
W
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Actually,
I was thinking of using the old tire and oxidizer mix that Burt has been
touting.
You only get one landing per fuel load, but each landing really counts.
;{)
do not archive
ime: 07:38:57 AM PST US
From: Reuven Silberman <pilots2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: New Start
Whatabout a PT6 for power? LOTS OF POWER (from the More-Power people),
light weight, and since its a slo-build you can dedicate the rest of the
wing as a fuel bay. It will be just you, fuel, a small travel toothbrush,
and a vertical climb to the flight levels and jet streams. Happy Trails to
you.
Reuven Silberman
7A
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine timing |
The EI should sense the rpm is below 200 and know it is starting time
and not running time. It therefore changes the retard timing so it
fires at DeadTopCenter rather than 25 degrees Before DTC. The impulse
mag can have different settings. Some fire at 5 degrees before DTC and
some at DTC. If you ever might hand prop your engine, you want the DTC
impulse mag to reduce chance of a kick back which is bad for your
starter. Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine timing
Steve,
What happens if one uses one (or two) Lightspeed Electronic Ignitions
with their variable timings (and therefore potential power enhancement).
I mean the whole thing about EI is the flexibility in timing versus a
fixed magneto. Does that mean anyone using an LSE may risk blowing a
jug off of an IO-360 by producing to much power/ -combustion pressure?
Konrad
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly McMullen
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine timing
Small explanation of why you have to reference the data plate.
Lycoming
about 30 years ago had a problem with cylinder heads flying off of a
few
IO-360s with very old cylinders, in cold weather, where the engine
was
producing more than rated power. So they decided to retard the
timing
for IO360s from 25 to 20, which meant the impulse coupling or retard
breaker also had to be advanced 5 degrees so you still start at TDC.
They did this through a Service Instruction.
I don't know that they changed anything for the 8.5 compression
engines
like the O-360. On most newer IO360s you will find 20 degrees called
for, but older ones take 25(and produce more power).
Steve Struyk wrote:
> List,
>
> I just did my first annual condition inspection. When I checked
the
> timing I referenced the Lycoming Operators Manual, under
> specifications, and set the timing to the 20 degrees that it
called
> for. On a ground test run I was not happy with the way it ran and
> suspected the timing was incorrectly set. A search of the list
> archives and a check of the Lycoming web site offered no help.
So...I
> made a quick call to Lycoming and the advice I got was "what does
it
> say on the data plate"? Duh! I felt a bit stupid but there it was,
> plain as day, "25 degrees".
>
> I just wanted to get this in the archives so the next guy won't
have
> the same problem.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, 74 hours
> *
>
>
> p; -- Please Support Your Lists This Month (And Get the Annual
link Free * AeroElectric http://www.matronics.com/c Thank you for your
generous bsp; -Matt Dralle, List nbsp;
Navigator
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
====================
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: High CHT problem - Hole found |
On 12/10 4:12, Tim Bryan wrote:
> I know this has been brought up several times, but if this does the trick,
> I owe you something cold whenever I meet you.
If the poll results apply here then you have an 80% chance of improving
your cooling. And I'm pretty thirsty :)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine timing |
Advanced timing is fine at reduced power, but 25 is about the limit at
full power. You need to know what the parameters are for the system you
are using, and set the timing appropriately. Even automotive systems use
very little advance at full throttle and low rpm, then advance as rpm
increase and/or throttle is reduced.
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
> Steve,
> What happens if one uses one (or two) Lightspeed Electronic Ignitions
> with their variable timings (and therefore potential power
> enhancement). I mean the whole thing about EI is the flexibility in
> timing versus a fixed magneto. Does that mean anyone using an LSE may
> risk blowing a jug off of an IO-360 by producing to much power/
> -combustion pressure?
> Konrad
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Kelly McMullen <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 09, 2006 6:00 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Engine timing
>
> <mailto:kellym@aviating.com>>
>
> Small explanation of why you have to reference the data plate.
> Lycoming
> about 30 years ago had a problem with cylinder heads flying off of
> a few
> IO-360s with very old cylinders, in cold weather, where the engine
> was
> producing more than rated power. So they decided to retard the timing
> for IO360s from 25 to 20, which meant the impulse coupling or retard
> breaker also had to be advanced 5 degrees so you still start at TDC.
> They did this through a Service Instruction.
> I don't know that they changed anything for the 8.5 compression
> engines
> like the O-360. On most newer IO360s you will find 20 degrees called
> for, but older ones take 25(and produce more power).
> Steve Struyk wrote:
> > List,
> >
> > I just did my first annual condition inspection. When I checked the
> > timing I referenced the Lycoming Operators Manual, under
> > specifications, and set the timing to the 20 degrees that it called
> > for. On a ground test run I was not happy with the way it ran and
> > suspected the timing was incorrectly set. A search of the list
> > archives and a check of the Lycoming web site offered no help.
> So...I
> > made a quick call to Lycoming and the advice I got was "what
> does it
> > say on the data plate"? Duh! I felt a bit stupid but there it was,
> > plain as day, "25 degrees".
> >
> > I just wanted to get this in the archives so the next guy won't
> have
> > the same problem.
> >
> > Steve Struyk
> > St. Charles, MO
> > RV-8, 74 hours
> > *
> >
> >
> > p; -- Please Support Your Lists This Month (And Get the
> Annual link Free * AeroElectric http://www.matronics.com/c Thank
> you for your generous bsp; -Matt Dralle, List
> nbsp; Navigator
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.====================
>
>
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
Fellow listers,
I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
tap in one turn at a time.
The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
1/4x28 tap.
After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ralph Capen
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
Ralph,
I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the
buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if
I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods.
Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
Ralph:
I put the tube(s) in a vice (covered it with some duct tape first)...I'd
turn the tap and if the tube started to turn, I gave the vice a crank. I
did short amounts of tapping, and then backed the tap off...and kept
repeating. The tube didn't collapse in the pressure of the vice and it came
out OK. It was a bit of a P-I-T-A.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
Fellow listers,
I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
tap in one turn at a time.
The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
1/4x28 tap.
After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ralph Capen
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
You are right, every tap has one recommended correct drill size. Be sure to
use oil when you work with the tap. Stop every 1/2 turn or so and back up a
little bit to clear the metal. Go forward another 1/2 to 1 turn and back up
again to break free the metal. That is how I did it and it worked ok. I
like to put some rubber tubing about the part and put in a vice to hold it
securely. Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
If you don't have access to a lathe, you could do what I did...
I used the rubber pads on my vise jaws. Clamped the tubing in the vise the
long way, to maximize how much area was held by the vise. Lube the tap
liberally. Worked for me.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1150 hours)
www.rvproject.com
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
Ralph,
I have a drill press vise that has a V-groove to hold the tube exactly(?).
Drill it with the right size for the 1/4-28 tap. Then put the tap in the drill
press, turning it by hand to run the tap in 2 or 3 turns. This will start it
straight. Then you can take it out of the drill press and finish tapping it
by hand. Use tapping fluid (thread cutting oil). The key is to get it
started straight.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying 180 hours.
In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:34:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
recapen@earthlink.net writes:
Fellow listers,
I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
tap in one turn at a time.
The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
1/4x28 tap.
After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ralph Capen
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
In a message dated 12/10/2006 8:02:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Ralph,
I have a drill press vise that has a V-groove to hold the tube exactly(?).
Drill it with the right size for the 1/4-28 tap. Then put the tap in the drill
press, turning it by hand to run the tap in 2 or 3 turns. This will start it
straight. Then you can take it out of the drill press and finish tapping it
by hand. Use tapping fluid (thread cutting oil). The key is to get it
started straight.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying 180 hours.
I meant to say "exactly(?) vertical", obviously!
do not archive
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
Thanks for the info - lotsa responses really quick....
Worth my donation
More tools on order....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Not true, the 12th step is after having an awakening carry the message to
others.. starting back at step one
is being powerless over it.. ie: building another airplane is pretty much
showing unmanageablity over this dis-ease
of not building something.. work the steps.. :) all of them..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: 12 step
>
> G,
>
> yes, but you only have to do 7 of the steps as that constitutes 51%.
>
> ;{)
>
>
> Time: 04:53:26 AM PST US
> From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/08/06
>
>
> Hey Wheeler-
>
>>... I just received another tail kit for to start all over yet again...
>
> Have you considered a 12 - step program... ; - )
>
> And no, do not archive!
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
>
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
This is a viable test.
I tested my CHT probes by sticking them in a can of water and heating
it to a boil with a propane torch. They all read within one degree C
of the boiling point of water. If you altitude is much different
from sea level, or the atmospheric pressure is much different from
standard, you may want to allow for the small decrease in water's
boiling with altitude. This info is available on the web in multiple
places.
Kevin Horton
On 10 Dec 2006, at 14:29, Tim Bryan wrote:
> No, I havent but suppose it would be viable. Do the probes
> respond the same in water as they would in just the air? This
> would be a valid test I think. I did block one heat muff robbing
> air outlet with no change.
>
> Thanks
>
> Tim
>
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:26 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
>
>
> In a message dated 12/10/2006 11:33:56 AM Central Standard Time,
> n616tb@btsapps.com writes:
>
> I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to
> verify they are reading correctly.
>
> >>>
>
>
> I don't recall if you mentioned it earlier, but have you checked
> the probes in boiling water to see if they read around 212F?
> Pretty sure you could heat some oil hotter and dip the tips of the
> probes into it (verify with cooking/candy thermometer). I've never
> tried this, but sound reasonable?
>
>
> Might also try blocking one or both of the heat muffs- these are
> normally huge short-circuits around your baffles if they flow all
> the time- far more than all those little leaks you plugged up.
>
>
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
A lath is even better since you can chuck it up horizontal on the lathe
line. I have an easy tap that allows it to tap under power with a clutch.
Unfortunately when I did mine, my smithy was already moved to Texas. I do
think getting the hole drilled straight and then getting the tap started
straight with the hole is 9/10 of the problem.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
Ralph,
I have a drill press vise that has a V-groove to hold the tube exactly(?).
Drill it with the right size for the 1/4-28 tap. Then put the tap in the
drill press, turning it by hand to run the tap in 2 or 3 turns. This will
start it straight. Then you can take it out of the drill press and finish
tapping it by hand. Use tapping fluid (thread cutting oil). The key is to
get it started straight.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying 180 hours.
In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:34:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
recapen@earthlink.net writes:
Fellow listers,
I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
tap in one turn at a time.
The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
1/4x28 tap.
After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ralph Capen
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Tim,
7 years ago when I finished my RV8, I experienced a similar problem.
After double checking all baffling etc. to no avail, I retarded the
ignition a couple of degrees and that ended the problem. Double check
the specifications and your timing equipment to make sure that it is
accurate. Good luck.
DICK Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
solutions. After plugging every possible hole I could find in my
baffling here are the results. Yesterday was quite cool here in East
Texas and a flight was in order. After take off I climbed over the lake
at the end of the runway and noticed the CHT on # 3 was over 400. By
the time I reached 2500' AGL the temp was at 446 degrees so I leveled
off and allowed it to settle out. After a few minutes the temps came
down to about 406 but was about the same on 2, 3, and 4. I landed and
removed the top cowl so I could block off the oil cooler by about =BD of
the distance exposed. After another short flight the temps did not go
above 412 on climb and then about 402 on cruise. The big difference was
now cylinder #4 is the hottest. The oil temp climbed from around 154 to
182 so this was positive for this time of year. My oil cooler is
mounted to the back baffle on the left side of the engine.
I am at a bit of a loss for why the temps will not come down. One of
the solutions offered was to add louvers to my lower cowl to increase
exit air area. I am willing to do this but have some reservations.
Increasing exit air would increase air flow through the cowl but should
increase drag and therefore performance. How significant would this be?
Obviously I would be willing to give up a little performance if I can
keep it cool. Also it seems odd that hundreds, maybe thousands of RV's
are flying and staying cool enough without louvers and so I wonder what
else I may be leaving unchecked. I am convinced I have no leaks at this
point. Here is what I have done:
Closed up all leaks in baffling especially around the front and around
the upper ramps.
Added a deflector in front of cylinder # 1
RTV around every crack or seam where air could exit
Plugged a big hole between the case and #3 in front of dipstick
housing
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling
air from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
My baffle is very tight and I see no areas where there could be a
leak. I do notice the area above the cylinder on the right side is much
less since the cylinder is further forward and under the upper ramp.
Maybe this could be modified to raise the upper ramp some and equal this
out.
Because my temps change accordingly when I takeoff, cruise, and land I
think the probes are at least responding. I also think since blocking
the oil cooler caused a change and now #4 is hottest indicates they must
be working. There is no setting on these that I am aware of, but maybe
I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify
they are reading correctly.
Thanks for any help
Tim
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
Those of you using the Wix 51068 Oil Filter on the Lycoming engines, please
advise how to get a 3/4"-16 threaded fitting, since the ones on the Champions
appear to be crimped on. Am I missing something obvious here?
-Thx
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 823hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|