Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:39 AM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Jim Sears)
2. 04:22 AM - Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter (Bob J.)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (John Furey)
4. 07:29 AM - Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (glen matejcek)
5. 07:38 AM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (glen matejcek)
6. 08:03 AM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
7. 08:15 AM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 08:17 AM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Brian Meyette)
9. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Bill Settle)
10. 09:17 AM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Terry Watson)
11. 09:20 AM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (scott bilinski)
12. 10:17 AM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (HCRV6@comcast.net)
13. 10:46 AM - Re: scott will (Jamie Painter)
14. 12:22 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Dave Nellis)
15. 12:50 PM - GX60 & MX20 updates (Tim Bryan)
16. 01:13 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (zackrv8)
17. 01:21 PM - Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter (Martin & Chris)
18. 01:39 PM - Re: GX60 & MX20 updates (Ralph E. Capen)
19. 02:32 PM - Re: GX60 & MX20 updates (Chuck Jensen)
20. 03:13 PM - Re: GX60 & MX20 updates (Tim Bryan)
21. 03:25 PM - Re: GX60 & MX20 updates (Tim Bryan)
22. 03:37 PM - RV-4 F-416 cockpit rail/F-423 side skin junction question. (tomvelvick)
23. 03:47 PM - Re: GX60 & MX20 updates (Ralph E. Capen)
24. 03:59 PM - Re: Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter (Kevin Horton)
25. 04:06 PM - Re: Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Kevin Horton)
26. 04:35 PM - Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available (Robert E. Newhall II)
27. 07:36 PM - Re: Re: Tapping threads (Jim Jewell)
28. 10:41 PM - Re: Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter (HCRV6@comcast.net)
29. 11:18 PM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Ed Holyoke)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
>> A lath is even better since you can chuck it up horizontal on the lathe
>> line. I have an easy tap that allows it to tap under power with a
>> clutch. Unfortunately when I did mine, my smithy was already moved to
>> Texas. I do think getting the hole drilled straight and then getting the
>> tap started straight with the hole is 9/10 of the problem.<<
Tim is right, it would be much easier to do this with a lathe. This makes
the second time that I've seen a lathe recommended in the last couple of
weeks, or so. Fortunately, Van's parts don't require the use of a lathe.
I'm betting very few of his customers have lathes; and, the rest don't want
to buy them to complete their projects. Most of us figure out how to do the
tasks without one. Now, if one were maunufacturing his own RV parts with
plans, only, that would be a different matter. I'm thankful that I don't
have to do that.
When I did the pushrods on my -6A, my problem wasn't doing the tapping. It
was getting a tight fit on the threads of the bearing. There was a little
play between the bearing and rod, which made the fit as it if was worn out
before it was ever used. As it turned out, the tap I had was a cheap one
that made bad threads. It was fine for building model airplanes; but, it
needed to be a little better for full size construction. I went to the
local industrial supply store and got a good one. Problem solved.
Fortunately, good taps are available to all of us at reasonable prices, if
one needs one. I think Avery is one of those sources, if one doesn't have
an industrial supply store at hand.
Someone mentioned the hex rod that's already threaded. Now, that may be a
better suggestion than threading the tube that comes with some of the older
kits. It appears to be much stiffer than the older version and costs
little. Personally, I'd make that my first choice. I'm not one of those
"perfect" pilots; so, I sometimes let Scooter get a little out of the white
arc after I've dropped the flaps. I cringe when I do that. I don't have
hex tubes on Scooter's flap actuator. :-(
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Project on hold due to laziness)
EAA Tech counselor
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
It'll come out. On one of your old champion filters, double nut the nipple
on the filter and wrench it off. You'll have to do this every time you
change the filter but its no big deal to do.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 12/11/06, Vanremog@aol.com <Vanremog@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Those of you using the Wix 51068 Oil Filter on the Lycoming engines,
> please advise how to get a 3/4"-16 threaded fitting, since the ones on the
> Champions appear to be crimped on. Am I missing something obvious here?
>
> -Thx
>
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 823hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
I had similar problems on my O-320 RV6A even though I had a very tight
plenum. In desperation I removed the plenum which did no good. A week later
I read an article in one of the main aviation magazines about casting flash
and roughness in the cylinder fins and around the spark plug. About an hours
work with a small rat tail file in the dremmel and my problems were gone.
There have been several posts about this in the past two years. Not sure how
to find the article but I can give you all the details off line if needed.
John Furey
john@fureychrysler.com
330-495-5189
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: Tapping flap pushrod |
Hi Ralph-
>I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
To expand a tad on what's already been written, I clamped my tubing in the
vise horizontally between two blocks of pine. I drilled the tube out with
a hand drill and plenty of lube. The geometry / depth of the hole makes it
pretty much self aligning. Anytime the tube would start to slip, I'd give
the vise another crank. Same process tapping. Just don't get any lube in
the grip area. By the time I was done, the pine blocks had an almost 180
deg trough in them, but there was no discernable deformation of the tube.
No problemo!
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
I don't think this is correct, Glen.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Tim,
You do, of course, need adequate space for the cooling air to escape at the
bottom of each cylinder. I think I have about 2 or 2 1/2 inches. Also, you
should have an inter-cylinder baffle between each pair of cylinders. You do
have these, don't you?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 12/11/2006 11:07:37 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
I don't think this is correct, Glen.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running
horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round
tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it,
but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you
want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else
wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a
back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over.
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
Ralph,
I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the
buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if
I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods.
Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
--
3:41 PM
--
3:41 PM
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
John,
What brand of cylinders do you have, and did the article mention whether or not
one brand was more problematic than another?
Bill
-8 Wings
>
> From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
> Date: 2006/12/11 Mon AM 09:01:38 EST
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
>
> I had similar problems on my O-320 RV6A even though I had a very tight
> plenum. In desperation I removed the plenum which did no good. A week later
> I read an article in one of the main aviation magazines about casting flash
> and roughness in the cylinder fins and around the spark plug. About an hours
> work with a small rat tail file in the dremmel and my problems were gone.
> There have been several posts about this in the past two years. Not sure how
> to find the article but I can give you all the details off line if needed.
>
> John Furey
> john@fureychrysler.com
> 330-495-5189
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Maybe this is about insuring a small gap between the rear baffle and
cylinder number 4. I recall that an 1/8" gap is required, which can be
achieved by making a washer or spacer out of aluminum stock.
Terry
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
I don't think this is correct, Glen.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
I must agree this does not sound right. My head temps were going up slowly
over a period of time and I though I had better take a looksee. What I foun
d was loose cylinder baffles the ones that wrap around the cylinder. I tigh
tened them up and my temps went back to normal.=0A =0AScott Bilinski=0ARV-8
a=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "Hopperdhh@aol.com" <Ho
pperdhh@aol.com>=0ATo: rv-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, December 11, 2
006 8:02:04 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
=0A=0A=0AIn a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, a
cek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>=0A=0AHi Tim-=0A=0A>I reported on these earli
er and received lots of great info and =0A>solutions.=0A=0AI haven't notice
d anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate=0Aclearance between th
e baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the=0Aopportunity to fly
yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you=0Aneed a bit of a ga
p between the fins and the baffles.=0A=0A=0Aglen matejcek=0Aaerobubba@earth
link.net=0AI don't think this is correct, Glen.=0A =0ADan Hopper=0ARV-7A 20
====================0A=0A=0A =0A_____
___________________________________________________________________________
____=0AHave a burning question? =0AGo to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get ans
wers from real people who know.
Message 12
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| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Message 13
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Scott's website has moved to http://scott.jpainter.org.
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
I don't think I will have a problem with this as I
have a full size lathe and a mill in my basement. If
anyone wants to take advantage of this, feel free to
email me. It would not be a problem to do this
tapping. Just pay shipping.
Dave Nellis
--- "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net> wrote:
> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap
> links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the
> tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit
> slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except
> that I could only turn the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size
> drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure
> what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the
> tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> provided
> www.buildersbooks.com
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
Want to start your own business?
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
Message 15
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| Subject: | GX60 & MX20 updates |
Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60 and
MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the skybound
service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115 bucks for the
GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating once a year, twice, or
just paying the subscription price?
Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is there a
database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD which should only
be a display.
Thanks
Tim
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
Ralph,
Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. Tell him what RV model you are making and what
length. He will tap these out of aluminum or stainless steel. The neat thing
about stainless is that it is stronger, more corrosion resistant and polishes
up nice. OK, it adds 1/2 ounce to the total weight of the plane! So what. Go
for the stainless!
Zack
recapen(at)earthlink.net wrote:
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p861#80861
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
Seeing that I am using Shell's semi-synthetic 15-50 aviation oil, I figured
that using the latest technology oil filter would be a good match for the
oil. With that in mind, I bought the latest Amsoil automotive filter, but
had to get an adaptor to mate the female oil filter thread to the female oil
filter boss on the Lycoming pad. Lycoming happen to have such an adaptor,
but not for the thread size of the Amsoil filter. I went to a friend that
runs an engineering shop, showed him the Lycoming adaptor and the oil
filter, and he machined one up. I haven't done an oil analysis as yet, but
hopeful of the next one showing less wear particles than the last.
Martin in Oz
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: GX60 & MX20 updates |
Tim,
I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare cards
for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of my software
so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard disk. I was planning
to eventually go with the subscription (I already have the skybound USB downloader
gizmo) - but that will be right before I fly.
My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the GX60. The
GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes. The MX20 can also
display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like where your destination
and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get to them when you get there - but
the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My understanding*** If I'm wrong, please
correct me!
Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
My .02,
Ralph
-----Forwarded Message-----
>From: Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com>
>Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
>Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60 and
>MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the skybound
>service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115 bucks for the
>GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating once a year, twice, or
>just paying the subscription price?
>
>Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is there a
>database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD which should only
>be a display.
>
>Thanks
>Tim
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | GX60 & MX20 updates |
I just did an update on the 480 GPS and MX20. The database for the MX
is mostly terrain ($125), which doesn't change very often (unless you're
in KY and they keep removing mountains when they mine coal). The only
reason I updated the MX20 was I had v5.1 operating software and they
were up to v5.7, though I'm not sure I can tell the difference (refresh
rates are still measured in glacier-time). Because of the minor terrain
changes, I'll probably do it only once every few years.
On the other hand, I hadn't updated the 480 for almost 3 years and did a
one time update for something stupid like $225. Since there were a lot
of NDBs decommissioned and quite a few GPS approaches added in the last
three years, I thought it timely to update. Just to be legal, I carry
the current paper approach plates and enroute charts, but those are used
for advance briefing and monitoring the approach, while the A/P usually
flies it hooked to the GPS.
Jeppesen obsesses over the idea that someone may be able to sneak a free
upgrade somehow. Of course, to protect against that, they add multiple
levels of theft protection---which adds multiple layers of annoyance.
Jeppesen's position that two GPS in the same plane requires two full
subscriptions (less some small discount that could comfortably fit in a
thimble) is pretty cheeky, especially since we can only use one GPS at a
time---have you every tried looking at two at once! If anyone comes out
with a competing database, they have my business!
As Dan Checkoway commented when this opportunity came up in an earlier
discussion, "Mmmmmmm........"
Go to it, Dan!!!
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
Tim,
I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare
cards for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of
my software so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard
disk. I was planning to eventually go with the subscription (I already
have the skybound USB downloader gizmo) - but that will be right before
I fly.
My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the
GX60. The GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes.
The MX20 can also display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like
where your destination and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get
to them when you get there - but the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My
understanding*** If I'm wrong, please correct me!
Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
My .02,
Ralph
-----Forwarded Message-----
>From: Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com>
>Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
>Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60
>and MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the
>skybound service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115
>bucks for the GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating
>once a year, twice, or just paying the subscription price?
>
>Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is
>there a database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD
>which should only be a display.
>
>Thanks
>Tim
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | GX60 & MX20 updates |
Thanks Ralph,
I absolutely love my GX60/ MX20. I just paid to have all my flight guides
updated, and then realized I shouldn't need them if I have updated info in
my panel. I thought it was expensive. I guess I should just have more than
one airplane with the same equipment to share the data between. :-)
As far as what info is in which, I really have no idea. Would make sense
that as you say the terrain data is in the MX20. Positioning comes from the
GX60 along with the route data. They told me the GX60 update consisted of
waypoints and obstacles.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 3:38 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
> Tim,
> I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
>
> I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare
> cards for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of my
> software so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard disk.
> I was planning to eventually go with the subscription (I already have the
> skybound USB downloader gizmo) - but that will be right before I fly.
>
> My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the
> GX60. The GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes. The
> MX20 can also display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like where
> your destination and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get to them
> when you get there - but the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My
> understanding*** If I'm wrong, please correct me!
>
> Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
>
> My .02,
> Ralph
>
>
> -----Forwarded Message-----
> >From: Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> >Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
> >
> >
> >Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60 and
> >MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the skybound
> >service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115 bucks for the
> >GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating once a year, twice,
> or
> >just paying the subscription price?
> >
> >Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is there
> a
> >database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD which should
> only
> >be a display.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | GX60 & MX20 updates |
Cool that is what I was hoping to hear. My MX20 was updated about a year
ago free gratis courtesy of Garmin. The GX60 maybe could be updated once a
year and be reasonable. Anybody else have thoughts?
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:33 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
> I just did an update on the 480 GPS and MX20. The database for the MX
> is mostly terrain ($125), which doesn't change very often (unless you're
> in KY and they keep removing mountains when they mine coal). The only
> reason I updated the MX20 was I had v5.1 operating software and they
> were up to v5.7, though I'm not sure I can tell the difference (refresh
> rates are still measured in glacier-time). Because of the minor terrain
> changes, I'll probably do it only once every few years.
>
> On the other hand, I hadn't updated the 480 for almost 3 years and did a
> one time update for something stupid like $225. Since there were a lot
> of NDBs decommissioned and quite a few GPS approaches added in the last
> three years, I thought it timely to update. Just to be legal, I carry
> the current paper approach plates and enroute charts, but those are used
> for advance briefing and monitoring the approach, while the A/P usually
> flies it hooked to the GPS.
>
> Jeppesen obsesses over the idea that someone may be able to sneak a free
> upgrade somehow. Of course, to protect against that, they add multiple
> levels of theft protection---which adds multiple layers of annoyance.
> Jeppesen's position that two GPS in the same plane requires two full
> subscriptions (less some small discount that could comfortably fit in a
> thimble) is pretty cheeky, especially since we can only use one GPS at a
> time---have you every tried looking at two at once! If anyone comes out
> with a competing database, they have my business!
>
> As Dan Checkoway commented when this opportunity came up in an earlier
> discussion, "Mmmmmmm........"
>
> Go to it, Dan!!!
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:38 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
>
> Tim,
> I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
>
> I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare
> cards for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of
> my software so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard
> disk. I was planning to eventually go with the subscription (I already
> have the skybound USB downloader gizmo) - but that will be right before
> I fly.
>
> My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the
> GX60. The GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes.
> The MX20 can also display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like
> where your destination and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get
> to them when you get there - but the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My
> understanding*** If I'm wrong, please correct me!
>
> Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
>
> My .02,
> Ralph
>
>
> -----Forwarded Message-----
> >From: Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> >Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
> >
> >
> >Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60
> >and MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the
> >skybound service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115
> >bucks for the GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating
> >once a year, twice, or just paying the subscription price?
> >
> >Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is
> >there a database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD
> >which should only be a display.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | RV-4 F-416 cockpit rail/F-423 side skin junction question. |
I was wondering which way you installed your F-423 side skins on the longerons,
the plans don't seem real clear on it:
a: Make the top of the F-423 side skins flush with the top of the longerons?
b: Raise the side skins .040 so they will be flush with the top of the F-416 cockpit
rails when they are installed later?
option b would hide the F-416 cockpit rails from outside, however, the two rv-4s
I have looked at recently did it the option a way.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
RV-4
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p892#80892
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: GX60 & MX20 updates |
I wish I had a fleet of airplanes with the same equipment - now that I know
how they work.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
> Thanks Ralph,
>
> I absolutely love my GX60/ MX20. I just paid to have all my flight guides
> updated, and then realized I shouldn't need them if I have updated info in
> my panel. I thought it was expensive. I guess I should just have more
> than
> one airplane with the same equipment to share the data between. :-)
>
> As far as what info is in which, I really have no idea. Would make sense
> that as you say the terrain data is in the MX20. Positioning comes from
> the
> GX60 along with the route data. They told me the GX60 update consisted of
> waypoints and obstacles.
>
> Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 3:38 PM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>>
>>
>> Tim,
>> I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
>>
>> I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare
>> cards for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of
>> my
>> software so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard disk.
>> I was planning to eventually go with the subscription (I already have the
>> skybound USB downloader gizmo) - but that will be right before I fly.
>>
>> My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the
>> GX60. The GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes. The
>> MX20 can also display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like where
>> your destination and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get to them
>> when you get there - but the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My
>> understanding*** If I'm wrong, please correct me!
>>
>> Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
>>
>> My .02,
>> Ralph
>>
>>
>> -----Forwarded Message-----
>> >From: Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com>
>> >Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
>> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> >Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>> >
>> >
>> >Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60
>> >and
>> >MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the skybound
>> >service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115 bucks for the
>> >GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating once a year,
>> >twice,
>> or
>> >just paying the subscription price?
>> >
>> >Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is
>> >there
>> a
>> >database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD which should
>> only
>> >be a display.
>> >
>> >Thanks
>> >Tim
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
On 11 Dec 2006, at 16:20, Martin & Chris wrote:
>
>
> Seeing that I am using Shell's semi-synthetic 15-50 aviation oil, I
> figured
> that using the latest technology oil filter would be a good match
> for the
> oil. With that in mind, I bought the latest Amsoil automotive
> filter, but
> had to get an adaptor to mate the female oil filter thread to the
> female oil
> filter boss on the Lycoming pad. Lycoming happen to have such an
> adaptor,
> but not for the thread size of the Amsoil filter. I went to a
> friend that
> runs an engineering shop, showed him the Lycoming adaptor and the oil
> filter, and he machined one up. I haven't done an oil analysis as
> yet, but
> hopeful of the next one showing less wear particles than the last.
Martin - what is the rated pressure for the Amsoil filter? Lycoming
engines may produce higher oil pressures in some conditions than is
normally seen in automobile engines. I have seen several reports of
automotive oil filters bursting when installed on Lycomings, and I
have seen one report of an automotive oil cooler bursting too.
Admittedly I don't know whether these guys were running single weight
oil, or multi-grade, nor do I know the ambient temperatures that were
experienced.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Tapping flap pushrod |
On 11 Dec 2006, at 10:37, glen matejcek wrote:
> <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi Ralph-
>
>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> To expand a tad on what's already been written, I clamped my tubing
> in the
> vise horizontally between two blocks of pine. I drilled the tube
> out with
> a hand drill and plenty of lube. The geometry / depth of the hole
> makes it
> pretty much self aligning.
Maybe I'm proof that nothing is idiot proof, but I did manage to tap
a rod with the thread not aligned with the hole. On my next
attempts, I chucked the tube in a drill press, and turned the chuck
by hand, while holding the tap aligned with the rod. This worked
very well, as the fact that the rod was being turned meant that it
was impossible to have the tap remain misaligned on any given axis.
You do need to back up every turn or so to break the chips off. The
fact that the tap is coming up from the bottom helps the chips fall
clear without having to screw the tap all the way out. You do need
to tighten the chuck quite tightly on the rod to ensure it does not
slip.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
The FAA only allows rental of an experimental for
transition training and flight reviews. The CFI/owner
needs to apply for an exemption through EAA. You can
read about it and obtain the exemption here:
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/pr/010706_faaexemption.html
Bob
Bob Newhall, CFI, Airplane & Glider
RV7, N829RV
renewhall2@yahoo.com
303-819-1482 cell
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Tapping threads |
I have had just enough experience abusing thread taps to advise anyone out
in RV land to use a thread cutting fluid when tapping. There are different
types of thread cutting fluids. pastes, etc. Some are specific to the type
of material being tapped. There are also general use fluids, pastes, etc.
for those less anal 'tapper' types {[;-).
When tapping with the correct fluid you will find that the resulting threads
will be cut much cleaner and will most likely fit a bit tighter. the fluids
job is to lubricate and provide cooling. Use lots the stuff is cheap, Taps
are not.
Note- Using the correct Size drill is of utmost importance for good results.
When you first intoduce the tap to the hole the cutting will take very
little effort. As the tap straightens out and gets deeper into the hole the
tap will be cutting the threads deeper so the torsional loading will
increase. As the torsional loading increases it will be essential to avoid
turning the tap too much. Over loading the tap can and often will cause the
dreaded broken tap!:( It might also tend to tear at the unthreaded material
instead of cutting as intended.
Over loading will also run the risk of providing loose and therefore weaker
threads.
Backing the tap out a few times to remove the swarf (waste cuttings) reduces
the chance of breakage and allows the cutting fluid to do it's job better.
When the going gets tougher turning the tap 1/4, 1/8th or even 1/16th per
turn will provide the best results.
In the case of the flap rods chances are that if you have to tighten the
work piece holding device near to the point of crushing the work piece you
are going at it a bit too aggressively.
Don't be in a rush to get the job over with.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
> On 11 Dec 2006, at 10:37, glen matejcek wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Ralph-
>>
>>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>>
>> To expand a tad on what's already been written, I clamped my tubing in
>> the
>> vise horizontally between two blocks of pine. I drilled the tube out
>> with
>> a hand drill and plenty of lube. The geometry / depth of the hole makes
>> it
>> pretty much self aligning.
>
> Maybe I'm proof that nothing is idiot proof, but I did manage to tap a
> rod with the thread not aligned with the hole. On my next attempts, I
> chucked the tube in a drill press, and turned the chuck by hand, while
> holding the tap aligned with the rod. This worked very well, as the fact
> that the rod was being turned meant that it was impossible to have the
> tap remain misaligned on any given axis. You do need to back up every
> turn or so to break the chips off. The fact that the tap is coming up
> from the bottom helps the chips fall clear without having to screw the
> tap all the way out. You do need to tighten the chuck quite tightly on
> the rod to ensure it does not slip.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
I must have missed the early part of this thread on alternate oil filters. Would
someone please enlighten me as to why the interest in alternate filters. Seems
like the aviation oil filters have worked quite well for some time and I
have never heard of one bursting or any of the other things that seem to be a
concern with automotive filters. If the issue is cost, it seems pretty silly
to me to take any risks to save the equivalent of three or at most four gallons
of 100 LL every 50 hours. Just curious.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 293 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Martin & Chris" <av.8@bigpond.com>
>
>
> Seeing that I am using Shell's semi-synthetic 15-50 aviation oil, I figured
> that using the latest technology oil filter would be a good match for the
> oil. With that in mind, I bought the latest Amsoil automotive filter, but
> had to get an adaptor to mate the female oil filter thread to the female oil
> filter boss on the Lycoming pad. Lycoming happen to have such an adaptor,
> but not for the thread size of the Amsoil filter. I went to a friend that
> runs an engineering shop, showed him the Lycoming adaptor and the oil
> filter, and he machined one up. I haven't done an oil analysis as yet, but
> hopeful of the next one showing less wear particles than the last.
>
> Martin in Oz
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Yah, except that it's # 3. On the parallel valve Lycs, the fins are
really shallow on one side to let it sit right next to another cylinder
and the shallow side is to the rear on the right side of the airplane.
When I provided a little more gap back there, # 3 cooled off about 30 or
40 degrees on our O-320.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Watson
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
Maybe this is about insuring a small gap between the rear baffle and
cylinder number 4. I recall that an 1/8" gap is required, which can be
achieved by making a washer or spacer out of aluminum stock.
Terry
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had
the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
I don't think this is correct, Glen.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.kitlog.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
www.aeroelectric.com
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