Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:43 AM - Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy (linn Walters)
2. 03:47 AM - A65-8 (Donald Nowakowski)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy (glen matejcek)
4. 06:12 AM - Re: Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy (Chuck Jensen)
5. 06:19 AM - Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy (Catto Prop) ()
6. 08:29 AM - Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy (REHughes)
7. 08:29 AM - New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available (Jon A. Delamarter)
8. 09:59 AM - Re: Stick-on Trim Tabs (John Danielson)
9. 10:12 AM - Re: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
10. 10:38 AM - Re: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available (Jon A. Delamarter)
11. 01:26 PM - Re: aircraft directory... (Brian Meyette)
12. 04:51 PM - parachutes in the RV-4 (Larry E. James)
13. 06:53 PM - (jim-bean@att.net)
14. 07:28 PM - Re: Parking Brake (Bobby Hester)
15. 07:32 PM - Spar mistake! (David Karlsberg)
16. 07:38 PM - Re: (Larry Pardue)
17. 07:40 PM - Re: (gert)
18. 07:45 PM - Re: Spar mistake! (Bobby Hester)
19. 08:13 PM - Re: Spar mistake! (Ron Lee)
20. 08:45 PM - Re: Parking Brake (Greg Young)
21. 09:10 PM - Re: (Richard Dudley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy |
Agreed! I'm no expert and wasn't going to comment, but here goes.
The black scorch marks on the engine prop hub is indicative of prop
bolts that weren't torqued to spec. This can occur when a wood prop
changes climates ...... a more moist climate will cause the wood to
swell, and a drier climate will cause the wood to shrink. On a new
prop, it my take quite a while for the changes to take place due to the
really good varnish job it gets. So, it's scenario time: Let's say the
prop was made in a moist climate expressly for an experimental aircraft.
Props made for certificated aircraft have strict moisture content specs
and may/may not be comparable to our scenario. The new prop is shipped
to the desert SW, is installed and torqued to spec. The airplane is
flown and the varnish is compromised through rock nicks and maybe some
rain. Now the prop can dry out a little, shrink, and the bolt torque is
now out of spec on the loose side. This will allow the prop hub to flex
and rub on the prop flange and the pressure plate. This creates heat,
which further dries out the hub, making it looser still. The
heating/cooling cycles now will accelerate the damage until the prop
bolts start to flex ..... and eventually they will fatigue and fail.
The end (and predictable) result is the glider ride. For a new prop,
it's prudent to check the bolt torque often.
Linn
do not archive
Charlie England wrote:
>
> Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 12/17/2006 8:40:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> kboatright1@comcast.net writes:
>>
>> For those of us who fly behind wood props, this is a good
>> read. It may give some indication of the symptoms of a wood prop
>> beginning to fail. And then failing... ;-)
>> http://www.cozybuilders.org/Desert_Center/
>> Kyle Boatright
>> 2001 RV-6
>> Aymar Demuth Prop
>>
>> Great story and pictures, Kyle. Marc did a great job. Things could
>> have been a lot worse.
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> Dan Hopper
>> RV-7A
>
>
> Haven't read the whole thing yet, but there's a glaring error in his
> analysis:
>
> ' My theory is that there was a crack in a blade which was growing,
> bringing the resonant frequency of the prop in and out of the RPM
> operating range as it got bigger and the vibration mode frequencies
> changed. One blade leaves, then 10 seconds later the hub gives up the
> ghost.'
>
> If he had lost a blade, it wouldn't have been 10 seconds; more like 1
> second. And it wouldn't have been just the prop that departed.
>
> Less than an ounce off a tip will feel like the airframe is coming
> apart. An entire blade will likely cause the engine to leave with the
> prop.
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 2
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Folks, Totally off the RV subject...sorry. Does anyone know of a
Continental A-65-8 engine out there for sale? The case broke on my Champ.
Guess I'll have to keep flying the -6 until the beloved Champ is back in
the air. Not a bad back-up!! :-)......don
do not archive Please reply to me directly if you can help.......
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
"More than anything else the sensation
is one of perfect peace mingled with
an excitement that strains every nerve
to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
a combination."
-- Wilbur
Wright
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy |
>Haven't read the whole thing yet, but there's a glaring error in his
>analysis:
>
>' My theory is that there was a crack in a blade which was growing,
>bringing the resonant frequency of the prop in and out of the RPM
>operating range as it got bigger and the vibration mode frequencies
>changed. One blade leaves, then 10 seconds later the hub gives up the
>ghost.'
>
>If he had lost a blade, it wouldn't have been 10 seconds; more like 1
>second. And it wouldn't have been just the prop that departed.
>Less than an ounce off a tip will feel like the airframe is coming
>apart. An entire blade will likely cause the engine to leave with the prop.
>
>Charlie
I've got to agree with you, Charlie (not that you asked ; - ) )
>From my perspective there is a pretty clear chain of events here. I won't
bore the list with my ramblings, but the key cause and effect are that
something (such as the victim's move from coastal MA to desert CA) caused
dimensional shrinkage of the prop, which loosened it, and led to torsional
vibration. This is borne out by the photos of the charring on the face of
the prop extension.
The reason I comment on the whole affair is that 'back in the day', when I
was flying Cubs and Champs, a fellow I think knew Wilbur and Orville
advised me to sniff the prop / crank interface when preflighting a wooden
prop. If the prop were loose, as can happen from season to season with
humidity change, you could smell the charring of the varnish.
Perhaps this preflight technique will help another avoid the same fate.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy |
Thanks,
Chuck Jensen
Diversified Technologies
2680 Westcott Blvd
Knoxville, TN 37931
Phn: 865-539-9000 x25
Cell: 865-406-9001
Fax: 865-539-9001
cjensen@dts9000.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy
Glen Matejcek" wrote...
The reason I comment on the whole affair is that 'back in the day', when
I was flying Cubs and Champs, a fellow I think knew Wilbur and Orville
advised me to sniff the prop / crank interface when preflighting a
wooden prop. If the prop were loose, as can happen from season to
season with humidity change, you could smell the charring of the
varnish.
Glen, do you recommend sniffing the prop before or after starting the
engine??? :-)
Chuck
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy (Catto Prop) |
Charlie from what I know about wood prop harmonics and
fatigue was not the issue, like it can be a failure mode
for metal props. I do think it was manufactured or installation
error. We are talking a natural material, bonding pieces
together.
Usually wood props are very reliable but are subject
to wear and tear to a greater degree than metal. OF course
all wood prop owners should re-torque their prop several
times a year depending on changes in weather (temp/humidity).
Also the engine may be modified. 180 HP puts out a mean power
pulse. With the bolts loose and fretting problems can occure.
Also he felt the vibs for 4 weeks before! LESSON if you feel
somthing figure it out before flying. I thing the prop just started
to fail. Even with tight bolts props take a beating.
The problem is if you suspect a problem finding the
crack in a fiberglass wrapped wood prop may be hard to do
with out some NDT (non destructive test).
Catto has had other failures
and it was in a racing situation. Not a Catto prop put down but
the one that failed was on a formula racer and the bond failed.
The way the joint was made was less than ideal.
Many times
to make up the wood for the prop blank they glue pieces together.
I am sure with a three bladed one piece wood prop Catto has to
make some interesting joints and bond lines.
>>From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy
>>Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>> For those of us who fly behind wood props, this is a good
>> read. It may give some indication of the symptoms of a wood prop
>> beginning to fail. And then failing... ;-)
>>
>> Dan Hopper
>> RV-7A
>Haven't read the whole thing yet, but there's a glaring error in his
>analysis:
>My theory is that there was a crack in a blade which was growing,
>bringing the resonant frequency of the prop in and out of the RPM
>operating range as it got bigger and the vibration mode frequencies
>changed. One blade leaves, then 10 seconds later the hub gives up the
>ghost.'
>If he had lost a blade, it wouldn't have been 10 seconds; more like 1
>second. And it wouldn't have been just the prop that departed.
>Less than an ounce off a tip will feel like the airframe is coming
>apart. An entire blade will likely cause the engine to leave with the
>prop.
>Charlie
__________________________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy |
If the prop bolts were "bottomed out" in the drive bushing threads and
actually torqued on the bolt shoulders, the resulting failure will look like
the instance described here. Examination of the remnants of the threaded
portions still retained in the extension should reveal if this might have
been the case.
Hawkeye Hughes
Skyote and RV-3
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy
>
> Agreed! I'm no expert and wasn't going to comment, but here goes.
> The black scorch marks on the engine prop hub is indicative of prop bolts
> that weren't torqued to spec. This can occur when a wood prop changes
> climates ...... a more moist climate will cause the wood to swell, and a
> drier climate will cause the wood to shrink. On a new prop, it my take
> quite a while for the changes to take place due to the really good varnish
> job it gets. So, it's scenario time: Let's say the prop was made in a
> moist climate expressly for an experimental aircraft. Props made for
> certificated aircraft have strict moisture content specs and may/may not
> be comparable to our scenario. The new prop is shipped to the desert SW,
> is installed and torqued to spec. The airplane is flown and the varnish
> is compromised through rock nicks and maybe some rain. Now the prop can
> dry out a little, shrink, and the bolt torque is now out of spec on the
> loose side. This will allow the prop hub to flex and rub on the prop
> flange and the pressure plate. This creates heat, which further dries out
> the hub, making it looser still. The heating/cooling cycles now will
> accelerate the damage until the prop bolts start to flex ..... and
> eventually they will fatigue and fail. The end (and predictable) result is
> the glider ride. For a new prop, it's prudent to check the bolt torque
> often.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> Charlie England wrote:
>
>>
>> Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> In a message dated 12/17/2006 8:40:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>>> kboatright1@comcast.net writes:
>>>
>>> For those of us who fly behind wood props, this is a good
>>> read. It may give some indication of the symptoms of a wood prop
>>> beginning to fail. And then failing... ;-)
>>> http://www.cozybuilders.org/Desert_Center/
>>> Kyle Boatright
>>> 2001 RV-6
>>> Aymar Demuth Prop
>>>
>>> Great story and pictures, Kyle. Marc did a great job. Things could
>>> have been a lot worse.
>>> do not archive
>>> Dan Hopper
>>> RV-7A
>>
>>
>>
>> Haven't read the whole thing yet, but there's a glaring error in his
>> analysis:
>>
>> ' My theory is that there was a crack in a blade which was growing,
>> bringing the resonant frequency of the prop in and out of the RPM
>> operating range as it got bigger and the vibration mode frequencies
>> changed. One blade leaves, then 10 seconds later the hub gives up the
>> ghost.'
>>
>> If he had lost a blade, it wouldn't have been 10 seconds; more like 1
>> second. And it wouldn't have been just the prop that departed.
>>
>> Less than an ounce off a tip will feel like the airframe is coming apart.
>> An entire blade will likely cause the engine to leave with the prop.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available |
I have a brand-new Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP tested, boxed, & ready to ship from the
Lycoming factory here in Williamsport. Please email me for details. (jdelamarter@lycoming.textron.com)
Jon A. Delamarter
Thunderbolt Manager
Lycoming Engines
Note: I am purposely ommiting details and pricing in deference to the non-commercial
nature of this website. I am posting only after contacting Matt Dralle
for permission.
Thanks, Matt!
--------
Jon A. Delamarter
EAA# 780469
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82243#82243
Message 8
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| Subject: | Stick-on Trim Tabs |
Make your own out of aluminum scrap and use double sided carpet tape to
stick in place. Flew mine for 300+ hrs without any problem.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Bell
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 9:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: Stick-on Trim Tabs
Hi All,
Looking for stick-on trim tabs. Someone made them but I can't find them.
Best for the HOLIDAYS,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV-4 N23BB 18 hours
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available |
Umm, you are posting an advertisement so I think that the non-commercial
comment is a bit out the window. I'm betting the list members would
love a reference point that has pricing and details. I for one would.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon A.
Delamarter
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 10:28 AM
Subject: RV-List: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available
<jdelamarter@lycoming.textron.com>
I have a brand-new Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP tested, boxed, & ready to ship
from the Lycoming factory here in Williamsport. Please email me for
details. (jdelamarter@lycoming.textron.com)
Jon A. Delamarter
Thunderbolt Manager
Lycoming Engines
Note: I am purposely ommiting details and pricing in deference to the
non-commercial nature of this website. I am posting only after
contacting Matt Dralle for permission.
Thanks, Matt!
--------
Jon A. Delamarter
EAA# 780469
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82243#82243
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available |
rvbuilder(at)sausen.net wrote:
> I'm betting the list members would love a reference point that has pricing and
details. I for one would.
> --
Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP - 210hp
Roller Tappets
Front propeller governor mount pad
Forward facing "A" sump (standard)
Precision Static Balancing (Pistons & Rods to 0.5g)
Airflow Performance FM-200 fuel injection system, incl Purge Valve
(1)Slick Impulse Mag, (1) Slick Plain Mag, ignition harness, sparkplugs
Two-tone paint - Thunderbolt Titanium w/Gloss Black Cylinders
Chrome rocker covers, intake pipes, and pushroud shroud tubes
Starter/Alternator/Vac Pump not included
2year/200hr parts/labor warranty
With two-tone paint and chrome options, standard price is $31,930. This unit (only)
is available for $29,900 ($2,030 discount) if purchased in 2006.
--------
Jon A. Delamarter
EAA# 780469
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82261#82261
Message 11
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| Subject: | aircraft directory... |
I didnt like what they had, so I made my own. Theirs is also laced with
errors. I fixed all the mistakes I could find, and I encourage others to
update me with corrections, so we can all make this an ongoing, valuable
resource for all of us. I also encourage people to spread it around so all
can benefit from it
http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory
its a spreadsheet, so you can download it and do all sorts of queries and
sorts on it
and its free
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 1:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: aircraft directory...
Has anyone tried to use the aircraft directory on the kitplanes website? It
looks like an app I used to use on another website that worked really well,
but the one on the kitplanes site doesn't work very well at all...
It has a search function that you can input filtering criteria like; kit or
plans, cruise speed, landing gear configuration etc.....but it doesn't
return aircraft you would expect it to return... I tried several different
searches, all of which SHOULD include some, if not all of Van's airplanes,
but none were ever returned... I don't get it...
I was wondering if anyone else had use this tool and could possible tell me
what I am doing wrong, or maybe tell me where the original app is located so
I can use it because this one doesn't seem to work...
You can access it here if you have a esubscription of kitplanes...
http://www.kitplanes.com/aircraftdirectory/
-Bill
<http://www.buildersbooks.com>
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
--
3:17 PM
Message 12
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| Subject: | parachutes in the RV-4 |
Bruce,
I'll second all good things you have heard about Paraphernalia. I have had
Dan custom build 3 different parachutes for me (including my current Rocket)
over the years and I am a very happy customer. Your configuration depends
on your body shape and how you want to approach the problem.
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA Harmon Rocket
Message 13
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All,
I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured
out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle
by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious
accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into
the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks
the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the
open position.
My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it
properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed
operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas?
Jim Bean
43 hours now on N99JA
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake |
Hope these help!
jim-bean@att.net wrote:
>
>All,
>I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured
>out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle
>by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious
>accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into
>the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks
>the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the
>open position.
>My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it
>properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed
>operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas?
>Jim Bean
>43 hours now on N99JA
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have
no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new
3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most
inboard Z bracket. The hole doesn=B9t interfere with anything and I have
adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am
concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do?
Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope
not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think.
Thanks,
David
Message 16
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On Dec 18, 2006, at 7:51 PM, jim-bean@att.net wrote:
>
> All,
> I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never
> figured
> out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little
> handle
> by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious
> accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle
> into
> the closed position. When this happens the next brake application
> locks
> the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the
> open position.
> My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it
> properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed
> operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas?
How it operates depends on how you mount it and how you mount the
cable clamp. I mounted mine such that pulling the cable closes the
valve such that if the brakes were applied, it maintains the
hydraulic pressure. I used a ratchet style cable so it stays where
you put it.
All that being said, I have only used it a couple of times in 7 years.
Message 17
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The On-Off of-course depends how u mount the valve.
mine is mounted such that pulling will close, I got a T handle from ACS
with a 1/4 turn lock, i also mounted a spring which pulls the lever
into the open position
jim-bean@att.net wrote:
>
> All,
> I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured
> out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle
> by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious
> accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into
> the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks
> the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the
> open position.
> My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it
> properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed
> operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas?
> Jim Bean
> 43 hours now on N99JA
>
>
>
--
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
At 08:31 PM 12/18/2006, you wrote:
>I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have
>no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new
>3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most
>inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have
>adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am
>concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do?
>Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope
>not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think.
>
>Thanks,
>David
I would get a good nights sleep and call them about it although a pic
is worth a lot. It appears that the deburring did not leave a smooth inner
surface.
Ron Lee
Message 20
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| Subject: | RE: Parking Brake |
The valve operates by trapping the fluid after you apply the brakes. Apply
brakes, close valve and fluid and pressure stay put assuming no leaks.
Position the cable so pulling it closes the valve. Use a ratcheting or
locking cable so it will stay in either the open or closed position.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> jim-bean@att.net
> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:52 PM
> To: rv8-list@matronics.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject:
>
>
> All,
> I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but
> never figured out how to use it. At first I thought that I
> could use the little handle by itself. Unfortunately this
> dream resulted in an almost serious accident when the tiny
> mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into the closed
> position. When this happens the next brake application locks
> the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped
> into the open position.
> My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to
> operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it
> results in reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas?
> Jim Bean
> 43 hours now on N99JA
>
Message 21
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Hi Jim,
I, too, am using the parking brake from Van's catalog installed in my
RV-6A.
Though I cannot find a photo to send you, I'll describe the installation.
It is mounted on the firewall inside the cockpit to the left of center
and near the floor.
This seemed to me to be optimal for plumbing. It is in a position so
that when the lever is moved
upward, it is activated. So, when I pull out the knob of the pull cable,
the valve is in th ON position.
So, the knob is pushed all the way in for OFF and all the way out for
ON. Indeed, in the ON
position, the brakes lock with the first press of the brake pedals. It
is released by merely pushing
the know in.
Your description sounds as though you are working the lever in reverse.
I have had only a few occasions to use the parking brake, but it works well.
Hope this is of some help.
Best regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
jim-bean@att.net wrote:
>
>All,
>I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured
>out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle
>by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious
>accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into
>the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks
>the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the
>open position.
>My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it
>properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed
>operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas?
>Jim Bean
>43 hours now on N99JA
>
>
>
>
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