Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:50 AM - Re: Spar mistake! (Dana Overall)
2. 03:13 AM - Re: [Bulk] Spar mistake! (Kevin Horton)
3. 05:04 AM - Re: (Ralph E. Capen)
4. 05:27 AM - Re: (Chuck Jensen)
5. 05:58 AM - Re: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available (rveighta)
6. 06:54 AM - Re: [Bulk] Spar mistake! (Phil Birkelbach)
7. 07:19 AM - safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Brian Meyette)
8. 07:43 AM - RV8 for sale (Becki)
9. 07:44 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Ralph E. Capen)
10. 07:57 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Ron Lee)
11. 07:57 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Ron Lee)
12. 08:12 AM - Re: Spar mistake! (Brian Meyette)
13. 08:21 AM - Re: Spar mistake! (Frank Stringham)
14. 08:57 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Brian Meyette)
15. 09:28 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Jack Blomgren)
16. 10:10 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Jim Jewell)
17. 10:19 AM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Brian Meyette)
18. 11:30 AM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Ralph E. Capen)
19. 11:58 AM - Re: Spar mistake! (David Karlsberg)
20. 12:14 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
21. 12:19 PM - Re: Re: Parking Brake (Phil Birkelbach)
22. 12:57 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Ron Lee)
23. 12:59 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Brian Meyette)
24. 01:07 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Brian Meyette)
25. 01:39 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Bob Collins)
26. 01:44 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Ralph E. Capen)
27. 05:15 PM - Re: Spar mistake! (SCOTT SPENCER)
28. 05:58 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (G McNutt)
29. 08:16 PM - Re: Re: Spar mistake! (Bob Collins)
30. 08:37 PM - Rudder Skin Dent Question... (markpsmith)
31. 09:54 PM - Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question... (Jae Chang)
32. 10:29 PM - Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? (Gerry Filby)
33. 11:55 PM - Re: Re: Spar mistake! (David Karlsberg)
Message 1
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David, check with Van's but people drill new holes in the spar web all the
time for additional wire pass-throughs.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Spar mistake!
>Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 19:31:45 -0800
>
>I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have
>no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new
>3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most
>inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have
>adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am
>concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do?
>Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope
>not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think.
>
>Thanks,
>David
>
><< woopse.jpg >>
><< woopse.jpg >>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
On 18 Dec 2006, at 22:31, David Karlsberg wrote:
> I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I
> really have
> no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have
> a new
> 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second
> most
> inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I
> have
> adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am
> concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What
> should I do?
> Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope
> not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think.
The bending loads in the inboard part of the spar are carried by spar
bars. The purpose of the spar web (i.e. the flat sheet metal between
the spar bars) is to keep the spar bars the proper distance apart.
The extra hole you made will have a negligible effect on the ability
of the spar web to perform its job.
Your spar is still OK.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 3
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Jim,
I've got some pictures at home of how I did mine....based on another install.
Essentially, I removed the original bracket that holds the two fittings that allow
the flex hoses to convert to hard-line and replaced the rivets. I then made
a bracket out of scrap extrusion that wraps around the back (actually front
- firewall side) of the valve and sticks out the front (actually back towards
the pilot) to hold an Adel clamp that actuates the valve (from below - that's
the trick). The cable can then be routed along the center to mount just forward
of the spar and next to / on my fuel selector valve mount. I added a part
to the arm of the valve to allow the movement to be freer (new word!). As long
as the number of cable bends are minimized - it works nicely.
I'll try to remember to zap you direct.
Not flying yet and no fluid in the system....of course YMMV.......
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: jim-bean@att.net
>Sent: Dec 18, 2006 9:51 PM
>To: rv8-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com, <;;@unspecified-domain>
>Subject:
>
>
>All,
>I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured
>out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle
>by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious
>accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into
>the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks
>the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the
>open position.
>My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it
>properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed
>operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas?
>Jim Bean
>43 hours now on N99JA
>
>
Message 4
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I just got done installing my Matco parking brake that has the same
on/off action (may be the same parking brake provided by Van's) in that
when the brake module is installed in a normal configuration, pulling on
a directly connected wire cable would release the brake, but that's
undesirable. If you accidently hit it with your knee and push it in,
you'll block hydraulic flow to the brake.
The solution: turn it around to just about fully upside down. That
reverses the lever action. Now, to set the brake, pull on the cable, to
release, push...just the way it should be. The parking brake doesn't
care that its upside down.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jim-bean@att.net
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:52 PM
Subject:
All,
I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured
out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle
by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious
accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into
the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks
the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the
open position. My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to
operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in
reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? Jim Bean 43
hours now on N99JA
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available |
Jon, saw your email on the Thunderbolt IO-390 EXP on the RV-list. Where can I
get more info (specs, pricing) ?
Walt Shipley
235 Mitchell Rd
Chuckey, TN 37641
Chuckey, TN
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Jon A. Delamarter" <jdelamarter@lycoming.textron.com>
>Sent: Dec 18, 2006 11:28 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available
>
>
>I have a brand-new Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP tested, boxed, & ready to ship from
the Lycoming factory here in Williamsport. Please email me for details. (jdelamarter@lycoming.textron.com)
>
>Jon A. Delamarter
>Thunderbolt Manager
>Lycoming Engines
>
>Note: I am purposely ommiting details and pricing in deference to the non-commercial
nature of this website. I am posting only after contacting Matt Dralle
for permission.
>Thanks, Matt!
>
>--------
>Jon A. Delamarter
>EAA# 780469
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82243#82243
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
I agree with Kevin. Keep on building and don't worry about it. A spar
is basically a fancy shaped 'I' Beam and 'I' beams carry the vast
majority of the load in the flanges, not the web.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> On 18 Dec 2006, at 22:31, David Karlsberg wrote:
>
>> I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I
>> really have
>> no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new
>> 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most
>> inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have
>> adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am
>> concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should
>> I do?
>> Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope
>> not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think.
>
> The bending loads in the inboard part of the spar are carried by spar
> bars. The purpose of the spar web (i.e. the flat sheet metal between
> the spar bars) is to keep the spar bars the proper distance apart.
> The extra hole you made will have a negligible effect on the ability
> of the spar web to perform its job.
>
> Your spar is still OK.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
A kid recently asked me this question through EAA:
"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?"
I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely recall that
when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that some AN fitting nuts
were safetied, but I could be imagining it.
Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to answer
this kid's question.
thanks,
brian
--
Message 8
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A friend has asked us to help him sell his RV8. It is a beautiful
plane finished here at our facility in Texas in 2003. It can be seen at
our website or directly at www.fly-gbi.com/RV8forsale.htm. Please give
us a call if you are interested (940) 648-0841.
Becki Orndorff
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
A recent Vans SB requires safety-wiring the AN fittings inside the fuel tank.
That doesn't answer the question though.....
My thoughts are that in order to get the fittings sealed, they require an amount
of torque that can't be overcome by vibration.
Devil's advocate thought.....if the safety wire wasn't there, could the fitting
loosen due to vibration....if the fitting were to loosen, what would be the result.
This line of thinking might cause you to safety everything - or think
about it anyway......
My jarheaded thinking,
Ralph Capen
MGySgt USMC retired - A6's forever.......
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2@starband.net>
>Sent: Dec 19, 2006 10:19 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
>
>
>A kid recently asked me this question through EAA:
>
>"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?"
>
>I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely recall that
when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that some AN fitting
nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it.
>
>Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to answer
this kid's question.
>
>thanks,
>brian
>
>
>--
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote:
>
>A kid recently asked me this question through EAA:
>
>"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?"
>
>I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely
>recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that
>some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it.
>
>Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to
>answer this kid's question.
>
>thanks,
>brian
No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was
installed properly?
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote:
>
>A kid recently asked me this question through EAA:
>
>"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?"
>
>I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely
>recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that
>some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it.
>
>Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to
>answer this kid's question.
>
>thanks,
>brian
No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was
installed properly?
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Message 12
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A non-issue. Relax & continue
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Karlsberg
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 10:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spar mistake!
I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have
no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new
3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most
inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have
adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am
concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do?
Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope
not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think.
Thanks,
David
--
3:17 PM
--
1:45 PM
Message 13
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Dave
I would get the straight scoope from Van's. With that said it will not be a
problem. Knowing me I would probably put a rivet in it if it didn't interfer
with the Z bracket. Not a big deal just move on and drill those holes and
pound those rivets.
Frank @ SGU and SLC wiring ...............does it ever end
>From: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Spar mistake!
>Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 19:31:45 -0800
>
>I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have
>no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new
>3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most
>inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have
>adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am
>concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do?
>Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope
>not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think.
>
>Thanks,
>David
>
><< woopse.jpg >>
><< woopse.jpg >>
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Message 14
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| Subject: | safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
No, and I guess the idea is that safety wire probably won't keep it from
just loosening enough to leak, if it's going to loosen at all. Maybe it's
just that "if properly torqued, they just don't loosen". I don't know.
But then, couldn't we say this about many fasteners? It's a very good
question. Anyway, if someone does find out an answer, I'd like to be able
to get back to this kid with a good answer.
Thanks,
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote:
>
>A kid recently asked me this question through EAA:
>
>"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?"
>
>I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely
>recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that
>some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it.
>
>Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to
>answer this kid's question.
>
>thanks,
>brian
No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was
installed properly?
Ron Lee
Do not archive
--
1:45 PM
--
1:45 PM
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
I was about to contact Van's with a similar query following three RV drivers
inspecting my near completed -8, with one saying I needed safety wire the
oil and fuel hoses to the pressure senders. There's no way I can get at the
engine attach ends to safety. Similar imposibility, to finish drill the AN
nuts, install, twist, and anchor safety wire, exists for the hoses to and
from the oil cooler.
What gives?
Jack
>From: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
>Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 08:56:05 -0700
>
>
>At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote:
>>
>>A kid recently asked me this question through EAA:
>>
>>"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?"
>>
>>I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely
>>recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that
>>some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it.
>>
>>Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to
>>answer this kid's question.
>>
>>thanks,
>>brian
>
>
>No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was
>installed properly?
>
>Ron Lee
>
>Do not archive
>
>
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
I agree, the question is a good one.
May I suggest that you contact the manufacurer of the fitings and get the
word direct from the horse's mouth so to speak. ;)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2@starband.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 8:56 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
>
> No, and I guess the idea is that safety wire probably won't keep it from
> just loosening enough to leak, if it's going to loosen at all. Maybe it's
> just that "if properly torqued, they just don't loosen". I don't know.
> But then, couldn't we say this about many fasteners? It's a very good
> question. Anyway, if someone does find out an answer, I'd like to be able
> to get back to this kid with a good answer.
> Thanks,
> brian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 10:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
>
>
> At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote:
>>
>>A kid recently asked me this question through EAA:
>>
>>"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?"
>>
>>I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely
>>recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that
>>some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it.
>>
>>Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to
>>answer this kid's question.
>>
>>thanks,
>>brian
>
>
> No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was
> installed properly?
>
> Ron Lee
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> --
> 1:45 PM
>
> --
> 1:45 PM
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these
rubber jaws I was referring to here
See the first pic on this page:
http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2@starband.net]
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running
horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round
tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it,
but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you
want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else
wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a
back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over.
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
Ralph,
I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the
buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if
I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods.
Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
--
3:41 PM
--
3:41 PM
--
1:45 PM
Message 18
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| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
And I like the subject of that page by itself.....
Another idea that I can steal!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2@starband.net>
>Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
>I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these
>rubber jaws I was referring to here
>
>See the first pic on this page:
>
>http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2@starband.net]
>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running
>horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round
>tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it,
>but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you
>want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else
>wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a
>back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over.
>brian
>http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
>Ralph,
>
>I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the
>buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if
>I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods.
>
>Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either.
>
>Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>>
>>
>> Fellow listers,
>>
>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>>
>> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
>> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
>> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
>> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
>> the
>> tap in one turn at a time.
>> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
>> 1/4x28 tap.
>> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>>
>> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
>> it.
>>
>> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
>> Ralph Capen
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>3:41 PM
>
>--
>3:41 PM
>
>--
>1:45 PM
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
Thanks all for your thoughts. Just thought you would want to know my
official response. I have a top secret way of getting my emails returned
quickly! So It looks like I will continue to build my plane. Too bad both
wings are needed and are not doubled up for redundancy issues.
>From ken scott...
There's not much you can do at this point...but it is very unlikely
that this small holes will cause any significant compromise.
>From Ken Krueger...
Hi David,
While neither of us are particularly happy about the hole, there's no
significant strength reduction as a result.
Keep building!
Ken Krueger, Engineer
Van's Aircraft
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
I'd be interested in knowing if anyone found their fuel fittings loose while
complying with their "Mandatory Service Bulletin." Mine were tight just like
I left them. Now, I could understand if someone left theirs loose, they may
find them that way!
I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave a hose
fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, leave it completely
disconnected.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Parking Brake |
You can also set the valve to the closed position and then apply the
brakes. It is basically a check valve with a small cam to push the ball
off of the seat for normal operation. This is why it just rotates
around in a circle.
I fly to West Texas quite a bit and it's sure nice to have that parking
brake when you're trying to fuel up in a 35 knot wind. It's a good
thing it was blowing right down the runway. I got home fast though. :-)
I also installed a spring in case the cable were to "come from
together," as a Cajun friend of mine once said. :-)
Here is a picture of my installation. The position of the arm is open
and it now has a spring holding it in that position and a cable that
pulls it toward the camera about 90 deg. Like Greg suggested I used one
of those small cables with the locking push button in the middle.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=328
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Greg Young wrote:
>
> The valve operates by trapping the fluid after you apply the brakes. Apply
> brakes, close valve and fluid and pressure stay put assuming no leaks.
> Position the cable so pulling it closes the valve. Use a ratcheting or
> locking cable so it will stay in either the open or closed position.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> jim-bean@att.net
>> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:52 PM
>> To: rv8-list@matronics.com; rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject:
>>
>>
>> All,
>> I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but
>> never figured out how to use it. At first I thought that I
>> could use the little handle by itself. Unfortunately this
>> dream resulted in an almost serious accident when the tiny
>> mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into the closed
>> position. When this happens the next brake application locks
>> the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped
>> into the open position.
>> My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to
>> operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it
>> results in reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas?
>> Jim Bean
>> 43 hours now on N99JA
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
>I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never
>leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it,
>leave it completely disconnected.
Excellent point Dan. The same applies to a canopy while taxiing.
If these nuts were to be safety tied then there would be a "hole"
in them to accommodate safety wire.
Just my opinion.
Ron Lee
Message 23
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| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
If you like custom ideas, there are some more on this page:
http://brian76.mystarband.net/custom.htm
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
And I like the subject of that page by itself.....
Another idea that I can steal!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2@starband.net>
>Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
>I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these
>rubber jaws I was referring to here
>
>See the first pic on this page:
>
>http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2@starband.net]
>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running
>horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round
>tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it,
>but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you
>want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else
>wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a
>back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over.
>brian
>http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
>Ralph,
>
>I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the
>buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if
>I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods.
>
>Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either.
>
>Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>>
>>
>> Fellow listers,
>>
>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>>
>> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
>> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
>> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
>> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
>> the
>> tap in one turn at a time.
>> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
>> 1/4x28 tap.
>> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>>
>> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
>> it.
>>
>> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
>> Ralph Capen
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>3:41 PM
>
>--
>3:41 PM
>
>--
>1:45 PM
>
>
--
--
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
Another trick I use throughout my plane is that all connections and
fasteners get orange marking paint when they are torqued. I even put it on
the flats on my AN nuts. Anything not marked with the orange paint (from
Avery p/n 125) is not considered tight and wont pass the inspection
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
I'd be interested in knowing if anyone found their fuel fittings loose while
complying with their "Mandatory Service Bulletin." Mine were tight just
like I left them. Now, I could understand if someone left theirs loose,
they may find them that way!
I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave a hose
fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, leave it
completely disconnected.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
<http://www.buildersbooks.com>
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
--
1:45 PM
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
I'm not altogether sure what I'd safety an AN fitting to in many cases. The SB
was easy because there was an anti-rotation bracket there.
When I opened my tank, my fitting in one wing was fine. But I'm glad for the SB
because I'm pretty sure I didn't think to torque it properly. The other fitting
in the other tank, when I opened it, was smothered with ProSeal, which taught
me to ALWAYS take pictures of EVERYTHING for the log book.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82514#82514
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
Thanks......
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2@starband.net>
>Sent: Dec 19, 2006 3:58 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
>If you like custom ideas, there are some more on this page:
>
>http://brian76.mystarband.net/custom.htm
>
>brian
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:29 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
>And I like the subject of that page by itself.....
>
>Another idea that I can steal!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2@starband.net>
>>Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>>
>>
>>I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these
>>rubber jaws I was referring to here
>>
>>See the first pic on this page:
>>
>>http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2@starband.net]
>>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>>
>>I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running
>>horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round
>>tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it,
>>but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you
>>want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else
>>wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a
>>back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over.
>>brian
>>http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>>Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>>
>>
>>Ralph,
>>
>>I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the
>>buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if
>>I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods.
>>
>>Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either.
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>>> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
>>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>>>
>>>
>>> Fellow listers,
>>>
>>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>>>
>>> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
>>> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
>>> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
>>> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
>>> the
>>> tap in one turn at a time.
>>> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
>>> 1/4x28 tap.
>>> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>>>
>>> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
>>> it.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
>>> Ralph Capen
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>3:41 PM
>>
>>--
>>3:41 PM
>>
>>--
>>1:45 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>
>--
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement and other
details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In general,
any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web -and as the hole
gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the problem gets
worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bottom could well render
the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they think -but not give you
anything in writing and let you know you are on your own when it comes to things
being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots of flub-ups and it won't be
anything new to them I bet.
Scott
N4ZW
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
Excellent lesson Dan, and from the same perspective, - never try to be
helpful by starting the fittings for another person!
George In Langley BC
>
> I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave
> a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it,
> leave it completely disconnected.
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking those
four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as best I could
and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it until I read this.
Shoot.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 7:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Spar mistake!
An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement and
other details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In
general, any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web
-and as the hole gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap
the problem gets worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or
bottom could well render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they
think -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on your
own when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots
of flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them I bet.
Scott
N4ZW
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Skin Dent Question... |
I had a dent in my rudder skin caused by an oops while back riveting. I ended
up getting it out, but may have caused more pain than I was expecting. Now I
have a bunch of wrinkles out about a 6 square inch area. Also, I have a small
1" area that "pops" up and down.
The wrinkles are only really noticable when I look down the skin and notice the
smooth aluminum and then the wrinkles - yuck! As for the "pop", I figure this
will go away when I close up the rudder.
I pondered buying a new rudder skin - but I am probably over-reacting and don't
really want to pay 77 bucks for cosmetics. Not to mention drilling out all
the stiffeners.
My questions are:
Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler?
Does the small pop in the skin affect anything?
Thanks,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Skin Dent Question... |
Mark... Yes, you're probably overreacting. Chalk this up to experience and
better judgement for next time.
I would recommend moving on. Worst case scenario is, in several months or years
later, you will be in a better position to evaluate YOURSELF whether you need a
new rudder skin. You can order it then, though, I doubt it. Most every
first-timer has a blemish(es) in their rudder.
Jae
My answers below:
1. probably
2. doubt it
My questions are:
Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler?
Does the small pop in the skin affect anything?
Thanks,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? |
Its W&B time.
There's various scales of unknown pedigree available locally
for loan/rent .... but I know I'm going to need to re-do my
weight and balance several times as I add paint, wheel pants,
entertainment center (kidding) etc., etc., ...
Ruggles tail dragger scales are $275 at Spruce (jeese what's
another $275 - a drop in the bucket at this point)
.. are they accurate (enough) ? functional (enough) ?
Any experience out there with these puppies ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
Other than living with =B3weak=B2 spar... Is there a solution (besides replacin
g
it)?
I hope my plane does not fall apart!
David
I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking those
four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as best I coul
d
and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it until I read this.
Shoot.
Bob
On 12/19/06 5:13 PM, "SCOTT SPENCER" <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement a
nd
> other details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In
> general, any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web
-and
> as the hole gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the
> problem gets worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bott
om
> could well render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they thin
k
> -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on your ow
n
> when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots of
> flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them I bet.
>
>
>
> Scott
>
> N4ZW
>
>
> <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
om>
>
>
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