---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 12/19/06: 33 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:50 AM - Re: Spar mistake! (Dana Overall) 2. 03:13 AM - Re: [Bulk] Spar mistake! (Kevin Horton) 3. 05:04 AM - Re: (Ralph E. Capen) 4. 05:27 AM - Re: (Chuck Jensen) 5. 05:58 AM - Re: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available (rveighta) 6. 06:54 AM - Re: [Bulk] Spar mistake! (Phil Birkelbach) 7. 07:19 AM - safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Brian Meyette) 8. 07:43 AM - RV8 for sale (Becki) 9. 07:44 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Ralph E. Capen) 10. 07:57 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Ron Lee) 11. 07:57 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Ron Lee) 12. 08:12 AM - Re: Spar mistake! (Brian Meyette) 13. 08:21 AM - Re: Spar mistake! (Frank Stringham) 14. 08:57 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Brian Meyette) 15. 09:28 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Jack Blomgren) 16. 10:10 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Jim Jewell) 17. 10:19 AM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Brian Meyette) 18. 11:30 AM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Ralph E. Capen) 19. 11:58 AM - Re: Spar mistake! (David Karlsberg) 20. 12:14 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 21. 12:19 PM - Re: Re: Parking Brake (Phil Birkelbach) 22. 12:57 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Ron Lee) 23. 12:59 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Brian Meyette) 24. 01:07 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Brian Meyette) 25. 01:39 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Bob Collins) 26. 01:44 PM - Re: Tapping flap pushrod (Ralph E. Capen) 27. 05:15 PM - Re: Spar mistake! (SCOTT SPENCER) 28. 05:58 PM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (G McNutt) 29. 08:16 PM - Re: Re: Spar mistake! (Bob Collins) 30. 08:37 PM - Rudder Skin Dent Question... (markpsmith) 31. 09:54 PM - Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question... (Jae Chang) 32. 10:29 PM - Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? (Gerry Filby) 33. 11:55 PM - Re: Re: Spar mistake! (David Karlsberg) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:50:57 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RE: RV-List: Spar mistake! David, check with Van's but people drill new holes in the spar web all the time for additional wire pass-throughs. Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4 http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive >From: David Karlsberg >To: >Subject: RV-List: Spar mistake! >Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 19:31:45 -0800 > >I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have >no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new >3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most >inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have >adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am >concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do? >Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope >not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. > >Thanks, >David > ><< woopse.jpg >> ><< woopse.jpg >> _________________________________________________________________ Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win up to $50,000 in Holiday cash from MSN today! http://www.msnholidaychallenge.com/index.aspx?ocid=tagline&locale=en-us ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:13:01 AM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: [Bulk] RV-List: Spar mistake! On 18 Dec 2006, at 22:31, David Karlsberg wrote: > I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I > really have > no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have > a new > 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second > most > inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I > have > adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am > concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What > should I do? > Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope > not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. The bending loads in the inboard part of the spar are carried by spar bars. The purpose of the spar web (i.e. the flat sheet metal between the spar bars) is to keep the spar bars the proper distance apart. The extra hole you made will have a negligible effect on the ability of the spar web to perform its job. Your spar is still OK. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:04:02 AM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: RV-List: Re: Jim, I've got some pictures at home of how I did mine....based on another install. Essentially, I removed the original bracket that holds the two fittings that allow the flex hoses to convert to hard-line and replaced the rivets. I then made a bracket out of scrap extrusion that wraps around the back (actually front - firewall side) of the valve and sticks out the front (actually back towards the pilot) to hold an Adel clamp that actuates the valve (from below - that's the trick). The cable can then be routed along the center to mount just forward of the spar and next to / on my fuel selector valve mount. I added a part to the arm of the valve to allow the movement to be freer (new word!). As long as the number of cable bends are minimized - it works nicely. I'll try to remember to zap you direct. Not flying yet and no fluid in the system....of course YMMV....... Ralph Capen -----Original Message----- >From: jim-bean@att.net >Sent: Dec 18, 2006 9:51 PM >To: rv8-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com, <;;@unspecified-domain> >Subject: > > >All, >I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured >out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle >by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious >accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into >the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks >the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the >open position. >My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it >properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed >operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? >Jim Bean >43 hours now on N99JA > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:27:13 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: RE: From: "Chuck Jensen" I just got done installing my Matco parking brake that has the same on/off action (may be the same parking brake provided by Van's) in that when the brake module is installed in a normal configuration, pulling on a directly connected wire cable would release the brake, but that's undesirable. If you accidently hit it with your knee and push it in, you'll block hydraulic flow to the brake. The solution: turn it around to just about fully upside down. That reverses the lever action. Now, to set the brake, pull on the cable, to release, push...just the way it should be. The parking brake doesn't care that its upside down. Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim-bean@att.net Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:52 PM Subject: All, I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the open position. My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? Jim Bean 43 hours now on N99JA ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:58:32 AM PST US From: rveighta Subject: Re: RV-List: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available Jon, saw your email on the Thunderbolt IO-390 EXP on the RV-list. Where can I get more info (specs, pricing) ? Walt Shipley 235 Mitchell Rd Chuckey, TN 37641 Chuckey, TN -----Original Message----- >From: "Jon A. Delamarter" >Sent: Dec 18, 2006 11:28 AM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available > > >I have a brand-new Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP tested, boxed, & ready to ship from the Lycoming factory here in Williamsport. Please email me for details. (jdelamarter@lycoming.textron.com) > >Jon A. Delamarter >Thunderbolt Manager >Lycoming Engines > >Note: I am purposely ommiting details and pricing in deference to the non-commercial nature of this website. I am posting only after contacting Matt Dralle for permission. >Thanks, Matt! > >-------- >Jon A. Delamarter >EAA# 780469 > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82243#82243 > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:54:41 AM PST US From: Phil Birkelbach Subject: Re: [Bulk] RV-List: Spar mistake! I agree with Kevin. Keep on building and don't worry about it. A spar is basically a fancy shaped 'I' Beam and 'I' beams carry the vast majority of the load in the flanges, not the web. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com Kevin Horton wrote: > > On 18 Dec 2006, at 22:31, David Karlsberg wrote: > >> I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I >> really have >> no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new >> 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most >> inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have >> adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am >> concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should >> I do? >> Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope >> not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. > > The bending loads in the inboard part of the spar are carried by spar > bars. The purpose of the spar web (i.e. the flat sheet metal between > the spar bars) is to keep the spar bars the proper distance apart. > The extra hole you made will have a negligible effect on the ability > of the spar web to perform its job. > > Your spar is still OK. > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) > Ottawa, Canada > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:19:32 AM PST US From: "Brian Meyette" Subject: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: "Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to answer this kid's question. thanks, brian -- ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:43:18 AM PST US From: "Becki" Subject: RV-List: RV8 for sale A friend has asked us to help him sell his RV8. It is a beautiful plane finished here at our facility in Texas in 2003. It can be seen at our website or directly at www.fly-gbi.com/RV8forsale.htm. Please give us a call if you are interested (940) 648-0841. Becki Orndorff ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:44:15 AM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts A recent Vans SB requires safety-wiring the AN fittings inside the fuel tank. That doesn't answer the question though..... My thoughts are that in order to get the fittings sealed, they require an amount of torque that can't be overcome by vibration. Devil's advocate thought.....if the safety wire wasn't there, could the fitting loosen due to vibration....if the fitting were to loosen, what would be the result. This line of thinking might cause you to safety everything - or think about it anyway...... My jarheaded thinking, Ralph Capen MGySgt USMC retired - A6's forever....... -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette >Sent: Dec 19, 2006 10:19 AM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts > > >A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: > >"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" > >I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. > >Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to answer this kid's question. > >thanks, >brian > > >-- > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:57:12 AM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote: > >A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: > >"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" > >I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely >recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that >some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. > >Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to >answer this kid's question. > >thanks, >brian No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was installed properly? Ron Lee Do not archive ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:57:12 AM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote: > >A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: > >"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" > >I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely >recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that >some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. > >Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to >answer this kid's question. > >thanks, >brian No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was installed properly? Ron Lee Do not archive ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:12:26 AM PST US From: "Brian Meyette" Subject: RE: RV-List: Spar mistake! A non-issue. Relax & continue brian http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Karlsberg Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 10:32 PM Subject: RV-List: Spar mistake! I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do? Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. Thanks, David -- 3:17 PM -- 1:45 PM ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:21:41 AM PST US From: "Frank Stringham" Subject: RE: RV-List: Spar mistake! Dave I would get the straight scoope from Van's. With that said it will not be a problem. Knowing me I would probably put a rivet in it if it didn't interfer with the Z bracket. Not a big deal just move on and drill those holes and pound those rivets. Frank @ SGU and SLC wiring ...............does it ever end >From: David Karlsberg >To: >Subject: RV-List: Spar mistake! >Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 19:31:45 -0800 > >I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have >no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new >3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most >inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have >adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am >concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do? >Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope >not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. > >Thanks, >David > ><< woopse.jpg >> ><< woopse.jpg >> _________________________________________________________________ Get free, personalized online radio with MSN Radio powered by Pandora http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:57:21 AM PST US From: "Brian Meyette" Subject: RE: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts No, and I guess the idea is that safety wire probably won't keep it from just loosening enough to leak, if it's going to loosen at all. Maybe it's just that "if properly torqued, they just don't loosen". I don't know. But then, couldn't we say this about many fasteners? It's a very good question. Anyway, if someone does find out an answer, I'd like to be able to get back to this kid with a good answer. Thanks, brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 10:56 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote: > >A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: > >"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" > >I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely >recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that >some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. > >Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to >answer this kid's question. > >thanks, >brian No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was installed properly? Ron Lee Do not archive -- 1:45 PM -- 1:45 PM ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:28:01 AM PST US From: "Jack Blomgren" Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts I was about to contact Van's with a similar query following three RV drivers inspecting my near completed -8, with one saying I needed safety wire the oil and fuel hoses to the pressure senders. There's no way I can get at the engine attach ends to safety. Similar imposibility, to finish drill the AN nuts, install, twist, and anchor safety wire, exists for the hoses to and from the oil cooler. What gives? Jack >From: Ron Lee >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts >Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 08:56:05 -0700 > > >At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote: >> >>A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: >> >>"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" >> >>I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely >>recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that >>some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. >> >>Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to >>answer this kid's question. >> >>thanks, >>brian > > >No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was >installed properly? > >Ron Lee > >Do not archive > > _________________________________________________________________ Your Hotmail address already works to sign into Windows Live Messenger! Get it now ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 10:10:17 AM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts I agree, the question is a good one. May I suggest that you contact the manufacurer of the fitings and get the word direct from the horse's mouth so to speak. ;) Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Meyette" Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 8:56 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts > > No, and I guess the idea is that safety wire probably won't keep it from > just loosening enough to leak, if it's going to loosen at all. Maybe it's > just that "if properly torqued, they just don't loosen". I don't know. > But then, couldn't we say this about many fasteners? It's a very good > question. Anyway, if someone does find out an answer, I'd like to be able > to get back to this kid with a good answer. > Thanks, > brian > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Lee > Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 10:56 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts > > > At 08:19 AM 12/19/2006, you wrote: >> >>A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: >> >>"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" >> >>I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely >>recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that >>some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. >> >>Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to >>answer this kid's question. >> >>thanks, >>brian > > > No answer but have you ever heard of one coming loose that was > installed properly? > > Ron Lee > > Do not archive > > > -- > 1:45 PM > > -- > 1:45 PM > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:19:18 AM PST US From: "Brian Meyette" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these rubber jaws I was referring to here See the first pic on this page: http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm -----Original Message----- From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2@starband.net] Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over. brian http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod Ralph, I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods. Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen > Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > > Fellow listers, > > I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. > > First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just > spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. > Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than > recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn > the > tap in one turn at a time. > The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the > 1/4x28 tap. > After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. > > I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping > it. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated, > Ralph Capen > > -- 3:41 PM -- 3:41 PM -- 1:45 PM ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 11:30:47 AM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod And I like the subject of that page by itself..... Another idea that I can steal! -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette >Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these >rubber jaws I was referring to here > >See the first pic on this page: > >http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2@starband.net] >Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > >I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running >horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round >tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, >but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you >want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else >wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a >back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over. >brian >http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan >Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >Ralph, > >I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the >buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if >I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods. > >Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either. > >Tim > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM >> To: rv-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >> >> Fellow listers, >> >> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. >> >> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just >> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. >> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than >> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn >> the >> tap in one turn at a time. >> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the >> 1/4x28 tap. >> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. >> >> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping >> it. >> >> Any suggestions would be appreciated, >> Ralph Capen >> >> >> >> > > >-- >3:41 PM > >-- >3:41 PM > >-- >1:45 PM > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 11:58:11 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Spar mistake! From: David Karlsberg Thanks all for your thoughts. Just thought you would want to know my official response. I have a top secret way of getting my emails returned quickly! So It looks like I will continue to build my plane. Too bad both wings are needed and are not doubled up for redundancy issues. >From ken scott... There's not much you can do at this point...but it is very unlikely that this small holes will cause any significant compromise. >From Ken Krueger... Hi David, While neither of us are particularly happy about the hole, there's no significant strength reduction as a result. Keep building! Ken Krueger, Engineer Van's Aircraft ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:14:18 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts I'd be interested in knowing if anyone found their fuel fittings loose while complying with their "Mandatory Service Bulletin." Mine were tight just like I left them. Now, I could understand if someone left theirs loose, they may find them that way! I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, leave it completely disconnected. Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 12:19:08 PM PST US From: Phil Birkelbach Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Parking Brake You can also set the valve to the closed position and then apply the brakes. It is basically a check valve with a small cam to push the ball off of the seat for normal operation. This is why it just rotates around in a circle. I fly to West Texas quite a bit and it's sure nice to have that parking brake when you're trying to fuel up in a 35 knot wind. It's a good thing it was blowing right down the runway. I got home fast though. :-) I also installed a spring in case the cable were to "come from together," as a Cajun friend of mine once said. :-) Here is a picture of my installation. The position of the arm is open and it now has a spring holding it in that position and a cable that pulls it toward the camera about 90 deg. Like Greg suggested I used one of those small cables with the locking push button in the middle. http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=328 Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com Greg Young wrote: > > The valve operates by trapping the fluid after you apply the brakes. Apply > brakes, close valve and fluid and pressure stay put assuming no leaks. > Position the cable so pulling it closes the valve. Use a ratcheting or > locking cable so it will stay in either the open or closed position. > > Regards, > Greg Young - Houston (DWH) > RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > > Regards, > Greg Young > > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> jim-bean@att.net >> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:52 PM >> To: rv8-list@matronics.com; rv-list@matronics.com >> Subject: >> >> >> All, >> I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but >> never figured out how to use it. At first I thought that I >> could use the little handle by itself. Unfortunately this >> dream resulted in an almost serious accident when the tiny >> mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into the closed >> position. When this happens the next brake application locks >> the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped >> into the open position. >> My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to >> operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it >> results in reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? >> Jim Bean >> 43 hours now on N99JA >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 12:57:13 PM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts >I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never >leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, >leave it completely disconnected. Excellent point Dan. The same applies to a canopy while taxiing. If these nuts were to be safety tied then there would be a "hole" in them to accommodate safety wire. Just my opinion. Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 12:59:00 PM PST US From: "Brian Meyette" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod If you like custom ideas, there are some more on this page: http://brian76.mystarband.net/custom.htm brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:29 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod And I like the subject of that page by itself..... Another idea that I can steal! -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette >Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these >rubber jaws I was referring to here > >See the first pic on this page: > >http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2@starband.net] >Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > >I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running >horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round >tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, >but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you >want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else >wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a >back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over. >brian >http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan >Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >Ralph, > >I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the >buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if >I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods. > >Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either. > >Tim > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM >> To: rv-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >> >> Fellow listers, >> >> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. >> >> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just >> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. >> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than >> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn >> the >> tap in one turn at a time. >> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the >> 1/4x28 tap. >> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. >> >> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping >> it. >> >> Any suggestions would be appreciated, >> Ralph Capen >> >> >> >> > > >-- >3:41 PM > >-- >3:41 PM > >-- >1:45 PM > > -- -- ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 01:07:04 PM PST US From: "Brian Meyette" Subject: RE: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts Another trick I use throughout my plane is that all connections and fasteners get orange marking paint when they are torqued. I even put it on the flats on my AN nuts. Anything not marked with the orange paint (from Avery p/n 125) is not considered tight and wont pass the inspection brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 3:14 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts I'd be interested in knowing if anyone found their fuel fittings loose while complying with their "Mandatory Service Bulletin." Mine were tight just like I left them. Now, I could understand if someone left theirs loose, they may find them that way! I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, leave it completely disconnected. Dan Hopper RV-7A -- 1:45 PM ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 01:39:16 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts From: "Bob Collins" I'm not altogether sure what I'd safety an AN fitting to in many cases. The SB was easy because there was an anti-rotation bracket there. When I opened my tank, my fitting in one wing was fine. But I'm glad for the SB because I'm pretty sure I didn't think to torque it properly. The other fitting in the other tank, when I opened it, was smothered with ProSeal, which taught me to ALWAYS take pictures of EVERYTHING for the log book. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82514#82514 ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 01:44:58 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod Thanks...... -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette >Sent: Dec 19, 2006 3:58 PM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >If you like custom ideas, there are some more on this page: > >http://brian76.mystarband.net/custom.htm > >brian > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:29 PM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >And I like the subject of that page by itself..... > >Another idea that I can steal! > >-----Original Message----- >>From: Brian Meyette >>Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM >>To: rv-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >> >>I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these >>rubber jaws I was referring to here >> >>See the first pic on this page: >> >>http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm >> >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2@starband.net] >>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM >>To: rv-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >>I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running >>horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round >>tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, >>but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you >>want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else >>wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a >>back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over. >>brian >>http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan >>Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM >>To: rv-list@matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >> >>Ralph, >> >>I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the >>buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if >>I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods. >> >>Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either. >> >>Tim >> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >>> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM >>> To: rv-list@matronics.com >>> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >>> >>> >>> Fellow listers, >>> >>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. >>> >>> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just >>> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. >>> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than >>> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn >>> the >>> tap in one turn at a time. >>> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the >>> 1/4x28 tap. >>> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. >>> >>> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping >>> it. >>> >>> Any suggestions would be appreciated, >>> Ralph Capen >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>-- >>3:41 PM >> >>-- >>3:41 PM >> >>-- >>1:45 PM >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >-- > >-- > > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:15:04 PM PST US From: SCOTT SPENCER Subject: RV-List: Re: Spar mistake! An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement and other details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In general, any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web -and as the hole gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the problem gets worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bottom could well render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they think -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on your own when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots of flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them I bet. Scott N4ZW ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 05:58:55 PM PST US From: G McNutt Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts Excellent lesson Dan, and from the same perspective, - never try to be helpful by starting the fittings for another person! George In Langley BC > > I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave > a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, > leave it completely disconnected. > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 08:16:56 PM PST US From: "Bob Collins" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Spar mistake! I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking those four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as best I could and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it until I read this. Shoot. Bob _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 7:13 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Spar mistake! An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement and other details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In general, any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web -and as the hole gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the problem gets worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bottom could well render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they think -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on your own when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots of flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them I bet. Scott N4ZW ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:09 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Rudder Skin Dent Question... From: "markpsmith" I had a dent in my rudder skin caused by an oops while back riveting. I ended up getting it out, but may have caused more pain than I was expecting. Now I have a bunch of wrinkles out about a 6 square inch area. Also, I have a small 1" area that "pops" up and down. The wrinkles are only really noticable when I look down the skin and notice the smooth aluminum and then the wrinkles - yuck! As for the "pop", I figure this will go away when I close up the rudder. I pondered buying a new rudder skin - but I am probably over-reacting and don't really want to pay 77 bucks for cosmetics. Not to mention drilling out all the stiffeners. My questions are: Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler? Does the small pop in the skin affect anything? Thanks, Mark Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580 ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 09:54:43 PM PST US From: "Jae Chang" Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Skin Dent Question... Mark... Yes, you're probably overreacting. Chalk this up to experience and better judgement for next time. I would recommend moving on. Worst case scenario is, in several months or years later, you will be in a better position to evaluate YOURSELF whether you need a new rudder skin. You can order it then, though, I doubt it. Most every first-timer has a blemish(es) in their rudder. Jae My answers below: 1. probably 2. doubt it My questions are: Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler? Does the small pop in the skin affect anything? Thanks, Mark Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580 ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:05 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? From: Gerry Filby Its W&B time. There's various scales of unknown pedigree available locally for loan/rent .... but I know I'm going to need to re-do my weight and balance several times as I add paint, wheel pants, entertainment center (kidding) etc., etc., ... Ruggles tail dragger scales are $275 at Spruce (jeese what's another $275 - a drop in the bucket at this point) .. are they accurate (enough) ? functional (enough) ? Any experience out there with these puppies ? __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 11:55:35 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Spar mistake! From: David Karlsberg Other than living with =B3weak=B2 spar... Is there a solution (besides replacin g it)? I hope my plane does not fall apart! David I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking those four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as best I coul d and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it until I read this. Shoot. Bob On 12/19/06 5:13 PM, "SCOTT SPENCER" wrote: > An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement a nd > other details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In > general, any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web -and > as the hole gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the > problem gets worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bott om > could well render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they thin k > -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on your ow n > when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots of > flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them I bet. > > > > Scott > > N4ZW > > > om> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.