Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:50 AM - Re: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? (Jim Jewell)
2. 02:52 AM - Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question... (Dana Overall)
3. 02:58 AM - Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question... (wskimike@mchsi.com)
4. 04:21 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (Dean Pichon)
5. 05:16 AM - Strakes (Steve Glasgow)
6. 05:16 AM - Re: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? (linn Walters)
7. 06:03 AM - Re: Strakes (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
8. 06:49 AM - Tapping flap pushrod (Condon, Philip M.)
9. 06:50 AM - Re: Re: Spar mistake! (Bob Collins)
10. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Spar mistake! (Phil Birkelbach)
11. 07:47 AM - Rudder Skin Dent Question... (glen matejcek)
12. 08:30 AM - Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts (LessDragProd@aol.com)
13. 09:48 AM - Boeing Surplus (Dave)
14. 11:05 AM - Re: Boeing Surplus (Scott Farner)
15. 11:20 AM - Re: Boeing Surplus (dclark@nwlink.com)
16. 12:49 PM - Re: Pitot tube covers (John Porter)
17. 02:03 PM - Oil Return Hoses (Kyle Boatright)
18. 03:22 PM - Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question... (JhnstnIII@aol.com)
19. 05:50 PM - Re: Boeing Surplus (Dave)
20. 06:02 PM - Re: Strakes (Dan)
21. 06:09 PM - B & C Wig-Wag Flasher Unit (Dana Overall)
22. 07:09 PM - Re: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? (Bobby Hester)
23. 07:25 PM - Re: B & C Wig-Wag Flasher Unit (Bobby Hester)
24. 09:11 PM - Re: Oil Return Hoses (linn Walters)
25. 09:42 PM - Re: Oil Return Hoses (RV6 Flyer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? |
Hi Gerry,
When the time came to weigh the aircraft (RV6-A with a O-360 and a CS prop)
I borrowed a set of three scales that originally came from ACS. these scales
looked much like bathroom scales with steel brackets that allowed the scales
to be positioned so as to be set up for two different weight ranges of
aircraft.
After adjusting the scales and setting up the aircraft, levelling etc as per
instructions I found the empty weight to be 1156 lb.
1156 lb. was heavier than anticipated and I decided to pay a small fee to
have very accurate professional digital aircraft scales brought into the
hangar. Using the digital scales the empty weight came in at 1135 lb.
This was a bit heavier (about 10 lb.) more than I had anticipated. The error
provided with the ACS scales was pretty close and erred heavy which is in
favour of safety as opposed weighing in light.
The error percentage overall was not too bad but!... I have established an
accurate empty weight for far less that the cost of the ACS scales. At their
price I could re-weigh the aircraft four more times and still have enough to
by a case of beer to celebrate the weigh in with.{[;-)
If arranging for digital scales is out of the question:
If you take great care with the calibrating ACS scales you might get closer
results than I did. Also if you have a group of builders and several people
chipped in, the ACS scales might be the "wiegh" to go. :-)
Jim in Kelowna -It'll fly soon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 10:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ??
>
>
> Its W&B time.
>
> There's various scales of unknown pedigree available locally
> for loan/rent .... but I know I'm going to need to re-do my
> weight and balance several times as I add paint, wheel pants,
> entertainment center (kidding) etc., etc., ...
>
> Ruggles tail dragger scales are $275 at Spruce (jeese what's
> another $275 - a drop in the bucket at this point)
>
> .. are they accurate (enough) ? functional (enough) ?
>
> Any experience out there with these puppies ?
>
> __g__
>
> =========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Rudder Skin Dent Question... |
Mark, you will hear all kinds of ingenious techniques to remove
smileys............however, lesson learned. If you do end up with a quarter
or half moon.........rough it up with a stotch pad, then throw a little non
shrink filler it and move on. Mine is coming back from the painter as we
speak. I watched him go over ever little nick and rivet, yes, everything
shows up in black!!!!! But not anymore:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "markpsmith" <markpatricksmith@gmail.com>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Rudder Skin Dent Question...
>Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 20:36:33 -0800
>
>
>I had a dent in my rudder skin caused by an oops while back riveting. I
>ended up getting it out, but may have caused more pain than I was
>expecting. Now I have a bunch of wrinkles out about a 6 square inch area.
> Also, I have a small 1" area that "pops" up and down.
>
>The wrinkles are only really noticable when I look down the skin and notice
>the smooth aluminum and then the wrinkles - yuck! As for the "pop", I
>figure this will go away when I close up the rudder.
>
>I pondered buying a new rudder skin - but I am probably over-reacting and
>don't really want to pay 77 bucks for cosmetics. Not to mention drilling
>out all the stiffeners.
>
>My questions are:
>
>Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some
>filler?
>
>Does the small pop in the skin affect anything?
>
>Thanks,
>Mark
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Your Hotmail address already works to sign into Windows Live Messenger! Get
it now
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question... |
The rudder is known for cracking anyway, especially if you have stretched the
metal and it is working. You will see it after you paint, so my advise is to
spend the money.
>
> I had a dent in my rudder skin caused by an oops while back riveting. I ended
> up getting it out, but may have caused more pain than I was expecting. Now I
> have a bunch of wrinkles out about a 6 square inch area. Also, I have a small
> 1" area that "pops" up and down.
>
> The wrinkles are only really noticable when I look down the skin and notice the
> smooth aluminum and then the wrinkles - yuck! As for the "pop", I figure this
> will go away when I close up the rudder.
>
> I pondered buying a new rudder skin - but I am probably over-reacting and don't
> really want to pay 77 bucks for cosmetics. Not to mention drilling out all
the
> stiffeners.
>
> My questions are:
>
> Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler?
>
> Does the small pop in the skin affect anything?
>
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
I am intrigued by this question, too. I have rarely seen safety-wired AN
flared fittings, but did find in the literature that the specification for
the standard AN coupling nut (AN818) includes a drilled variant for safety
wiring. The drilled part is designated AN818-L(X) where L is the nominal
size.
Also, Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices -- Aircraft Inspection
and Repair (AC No. 43.13-1B) includes several pages of recommended
techniques for safety wiring these nuts. Unfortunately, I could find no
mention of when safety wiring is (or is not) required.
Regards,
Dean
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2@starband.net>
Subject: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
A kid recently asked me this question through EAA:
"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?"
I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely recall
that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that some AN
fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it.
Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to
answer this kid's question.
thanks,
brian
--
_________________________________________________________________
Find sales, coupons, and free shipping, all in one place! MSN Shopping
Sales & Deals
http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctid=198,ptnrid=176,ptnrdata 0639
Message 5
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Does any one know how to contact the gentleman that is selling Strakes for
8's.
Cappy
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? |
Save your money. It's not that the scales aren't any good ....... I
don't know. However, you can borrow 6 regular bathroom scales, lay a
piece of 1/2" plywood across pairs of them to hold the wheels, zero the
scales and add the airplane.
Our EAA chapter bought a set of scales ...... and the plane sits on a
fulcrum that actually presses on the scales ...... and you can do the
same thing on the bathroom scales if you don't have 5 friends ...... and
you do the math like a W&B calculation. Way too much chance of errors,
in my book. But that's just my opinion.
Linn
do not archive
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>Its W&B time.
>
>There's various scales of unknown pedigree available locally
>for loan/rent .... but I know I'm going to need to re-do my
>weight and balance several times as I add paint, wheel pants,
>entertainment center (kidding) etc., etc., ...
>
>Ruggles tail dragger scales are $275 at Spruce (jeese what's
>another $275 - a drop in the bucket at this point)
>
>.. are they accurate (enough) ? functional (enough) ?
>
>Any experience out there with these puppies ?
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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How about a simple list search of rv-8 strakes.
There are quite a few messages there. Message number 116921 is a good
one.
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Strakes
Does any one know how to contact the gentleman that is selling Strakes
for
8's.
Cappy
Message 8
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| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
Another approach is to use threaded rod and insert the threaded rod
portion thru the aluminum tube with jam nuts at both ends for
structural rigidity. Exchange the rod end bearings from male ends to
female ends and you have a completed flap rod. Used Stainless thread
all from McMaster/Carr, lubed up the thread-all and jammed nutted it
closed.
The reason for this approach was the mess of threading the hollow
aluminum rod, as per Vans plans. I cut a few open (long ways) with a
dremmel and was surprised of the crappy threading that was internal to
the aluminum tubing. I am much happier with this threaded rod solution.
When completed you can't tell any difference visually between the
threaded hollow rod
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
Theoretically, I guess, the holes drilled to attach the zbrackets made the
spar "weaker" too, right? I presume it all comes down to a matter of degree
when all is said and done.
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Karlsberg
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 1:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Spar mistake!
Other than living with "weak" spar... Is there a solution (besides replacing
it)?
I hope my plane does not fall apart!
David
I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking those
four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as best I could
and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it until I read this.
Shoot.
Bob
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Spar mistake! |
Although what Scott says is true, it's a matter of degree. I can't
imagine that your extra hole in the spar web could affect it in any
practical amount. Yes, it's weaker than it was but it was designed for
9g's so now it can probably only handle 8.9999999g's. (Note: There is no
math here)
Go build, go fly and be happy.
I wouldn't try any type of fix. You could rivet a cap over it but I
(notice this is just my worthless opinion) would think that you'd
introduce more potential for cracking than the existing structural issue
would call for. This airplane is very over designed and it can handle a
few small mistakes here and there.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
David Karlsberg wrote:
> Other than living with weak spar... Is there a solution (besides
> replacing it)?
>
> I hope my plane does not fall apart!
>
> David
>
>
> I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking
> those four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as
> best I could and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it
> until I read this. Shoot.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 12/19/06 5:13 PM, "SCOTT SPENCER" <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the
> placement and other details of the hole will be the determining
> factors obviously. In general, any extra holes in the spar caps
> are worse than holes in the web -and as the hole gets nearer to
> the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the problem gets worse.
> A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bottom could well
> render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they think
> -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on
> your own when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but
> they've seen lots of flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them
> I bet.
>
>
> Scott
>
> N4ZW
> *
>
> onth --
> me AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> tp://www.aeroelectric.com"><http://www.aeroelectric.com>
> <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
> http://www.kitlog.com"><http://www.kitlog.com>
> http://www.homebuilthelp.com"><http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
> ://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> il Forum -
> >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rudder Skin Dent Question... |
Hi Mark-
> I had a dent in my rudder skin caused by an oops while back riveting...
...Also, I have a small
> 1" area that "pops" up and down.
>
> Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some
filler?
>
> Does the small pop in the skin affect anything?
>
> Thanks,
> Mark
When I did that, the advice I got from Van's was to set the rudder aside
and revisit it once the plane was done. If it was the worst blemish I had
at that time, then worry about replacing it. Probably good advice. Of
course, I figured I needed to learn to do the work well, as well as to
learn to correct my errors, so I 'fixed' my gaff. When I was done with the
'fix', I definitely had to order a new skin, as I had really trashed it.
(If you go this route, just get new stiffeners, don't bother drilling out
the old ones... you've got plenty of practice drilling rivets in your
future!)
As to the 'pop' in the skin, that is commonly called 'oil canning', like
the bottom of an old fashioned oil can. I suspect that if your rudder were
to do that in flight, you might experience some unplanned yaw. Probably
not significant in the grand scheme of things, but surely annoying. To
remedy that, I'd probably tweak the affected area to bias it towards
staying concave and then apply a thin coat of filler to bring the surface
back to flush. This all presupposes that proper balance of the surface can
be maintained, of course.
FWIW, YMMV, etc
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts |
Hi All,
I have had the benefit of having the help from an aerospace A&P mechanic for
a couple of decades. There is an aerospace specification that applies to
flare tube fittings in a fuel tank.
The preferred method of retention for the flare tube fitting in a fuel tank
is to use tank sealer. It needs to be at least .150" thick for at least
.250" on the flare tube nut and .250" across onto the flare tube fitting.
I haven't mentioned this before, because it is not an option provided by the
design organization, Van's Aircraft.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 12/20/2006 4:23:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
deanpichon@msn.com writes:
I am intrigued by this question, too. I have rarely seen safety-wired AN
flared fittings, but did find in the literature that the specification for
the standard AN coupling nut (AN818) includes a drilled variant for safety
wiring. The drilled part is designated AN818-L(X) where L is the nominal
size.
Also, Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices -- Aircraft Inspection
and Repair (AC No. 43.13-1B) includes several pages of recommended
techniques for safety wiring these nuts. Unfortunately, I could find no
mention of when safety wiring is (or is not) required.
Regards,
Dean
Message 13
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Does anybody know if Boeing Surplus in Seattle is open on the 22nd of Dec
(Friday) and the address.
Thanks
Dave
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Boeing Surplus |
Looks like it's closed on Friday. From the Boeing website:
(http://www.boeing.com/assocproducts/surplus/retail/)
The store will be open regular hours through Dec. 20: Wednesday
through Friday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. It
closes for the winter break starting Dec. 21 and reopens at its
regular time Wednesday, Jan. 3, 2007.
Here's the address:
20651 84th Ave S.
Kent Washington
Scott
RV-7A
54 Hours
do not archive
On 12/20/06, Dave <dave@coltnet.net> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know if Boeing Surplus in Seattle is open on the 22nd of Dec
> (Friday) and the address.
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> do not archive
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Boeing Surplus |
Nope ... closes for the Holidays Dec 21.
http://boeing.com/assocproducts/surplus/retail/
> Does anybody know if Boeing Surplus in Seattle is open on the 22nd of Dec
> (Friday) and the address.
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube covers |
Hey Guys,
Just another request for a source on pitot tube covers that fit a
Dynon AOA pitot? Apparently both Sporty's and Spruce have ones that are
too small.
Thanks,
John
80002
Message 17
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| Subject: | Oil Return Hoses |
My engine continues to have minor leaks around the little rubber hose
segments which connect the cylinder head oil return lines to the sump.
I've made several efforts to tighten the hose connectors but those
efforts don't seem to have helped. I plan on replacing the hose
segments at the next condition inspection.
My question is: "How do I prevent/eliminate/minimize these leaks with
the next set of hoses?"
Thanks in advance,
KB
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question... |
I did the same thing. Filled it with a mixture of micro balloons and epoxy.
Took several applications of filler plus sanding to get it just right but
now it's invisible. Depends how much you care about appearance.
LeRoy Johnston/Dave White RV-6 Esperanza in Ohio. 50 hours flying.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Boeing Surplus |
Scott,
Thanks for the info and the website.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Farner" <sfarner@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Boeing Surplus
>
> Looks like it's closed on Friday. From the Boeing website:
> (http://www.boeing.com/assocproducts/surplus/retail/)
>
> The store will be open regular hours through Dec. 20: Wednesday
> through Friday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. It
> closes for the winter break starting Dec. 21 and reopens at its
> regular time Wednesday, Jan. 3, 2007.
>
> Here's the address:
>
> 20651 84th Ave S.
> Kent Washington
>
> Scott
> RV-7A
> 54 Hours
>
> do not archive
>
> On 12/20/06, Dave <dave@coltnet.net> wrote:
>>
>> Does anybody know if Boeing Surplus in Seattle is open on the 22nd of Dec
>> (Friday) and the address.
>> Thanks
>>
>> Dave
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
I think these are the ones,
and a local guy, I'd like to know more about these too.
http://www.fairings-etc.com/Vendors.htm
Dan
Lake Stevens
-8 Fuse
"Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mike.stewart@us.ibm.com> wrote:
How about a simple list search of rv-8 strakes.
There are quite a few messages there. Message number 116921 is a good
one.
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: Strakes
Does any one know how to contact the gentleman that is selling Strakes
for
8's.
Cappy
Message 21
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| Subject: | B & C Wig-Wag Flasher Unit |
Seems I have "lost" my B&C SSF-1 (or equal) flasher. On Aeroelectric, Bob
refers to this as a simple automotive flasher unit. Does anyone know of a
Autozone, NAPA. etc. part number.
Have to keep at it to get the fuselage to the painter by Jan. 1!!
Thanks,
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? |
I saw this message of the RANSflyers list and order one of the scales
off of Amazon.com, I plan on using it for my W&B in a few weeks. It has
a max weight of 440 lbs.
---------------------
Today I performed the weight and balance on my S-6 using the Tanita
HD-351 electronic scale. It was simplicity itself and took all of about
30 minutes. Here's my procedure: first make sure you have 3 planks of 2
x 6 about 2 feet long, plus some sheets of 1/8" and 1/4" plywood cut to
the same size as the 2x6 to use as shims to level the airplane. I
weighed the nose gear first. This was simple. After determining what I
needed under the mains to make it level I rolled the airplane onto the
2x6's, pushed down on the tail and slid the scale under the nose wheel.
Simple. For the mains I used a different procedure. I placed the scale
in front of the 2x6 of the wheel I was weighing and simply rolled the
airplane off the 2x6 and onto the scale (which is the same height -
remember?). Just make sure you have sufficient length of 2x6 for the
other main to roll on so it stays level - hence the two foot length. It
was really a no brainer and a whole lot simpler than I thought it woul!
d be. T he highest weight I recorded was 240.8 lbs which is
approximately half the scales capacity.
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>Its W&B time.
>
>There's various scales of unknown pedigree available locally
>for loan/rent .... but I know I'm going to need to re-do my
>weight and balance several times as I add paint, wheel pants,
>entertainment center (kidding) etc., etc., ...
>
>Ruggles tail dragger scales are $275 at Spruce (jeese what's
>another $275 - a drop in the bucket at this point)
>
>.. are they accurate (enough) ? functional (enough) ?
>
>Any experience out there with these puppies ?
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
>----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: B & C Wig-Wag Flasher Unit |
NAPA Part# EL-13A-2
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Dana Overall wrote:
>
> Seems I have "lost" my B&C SSF-1 (or equal) flasher. On Aeroelectric,
> Bob refers to this as a simple automotive flasher unit. Does anyone
> know of a Autozone, NAPA. etc. part number.
>
> Have to keep at it to get the fuselage to the painter by Jan. 1!!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get live scores and news about your team: Add the Live.com Football
> Page www.live.com/?addtemplate=football&icid=T001MSN30A0701
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Return Hoses |
Kyle Boatright wrote:
> My engine continues to have minor leaks around the little rubber hose
> segments which connect the cylinder head oil return lines to the sump.
> I've made several efforts to tighten the hose connectors but those
> efforts don't seem to have helped. I plan on replacing the hose
> segments at the next condition inspection.
Good idea.
> My question is: "How do I prevent/eliminate/minimize these leaks with
> the next set of hoses?"
Try and ignore the natural tendency to tighten the crap out of the small
hose clamps. Snug should do it initially. Then periodically ..... as
they start to leak ..... tighten them up just a little to stop the leak.
Linn
do not archive
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> KB
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Return Hoses |
Leaks at the drain hose is a common problem.
The way I fix it is to clean the hose and fittings very well. Now add a
very small film of RTV engine gasket compound. Reassemble and snug the
clamp.
I had leaks up to about 10 hours. Used my little trick and no more drain
hose leaks.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,972 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
>My engine continues to have minor leaks around the little rubber hose
>segments which connect the cylinder head oil return lines to the sump. I've
>made several efforts to tighten the hose connectors but those efforts don't
>seem to have helped. I plan on replacing the hose segments at the next
>condition inspection.
>My question is: "How do I prevent/eliminate/minimize these leaks with the
>next set of hoses?"
> Thanks in advance,
> KB
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