Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:45 AM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: Re: Continuation on High CHT problem (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 06:03 AM - Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? (smittysrv)
4. 06:59 AM - Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings (David Burton)
5. 08:57 AM - Re: Home simulator, which (Dave Cordner)
6. 08:59 AM - Re: Home simulator, which (bertrv6@highstream.net)
7. 09:07 AM - Re: Home simulator, which (bertrv6@highstream.net)
8. 09:44 AM - Re: Home simulator, which (Patrick Kelley)
9. 10:12 AM - Installing Vacuum pump Fittings (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
10. 04:33 PM - registration results (sarg314)
11. 05:00 PM - Re: registration results (Darrell Reiley)
12. 05:08 PM - Re: registration results (Garry)
13. 05:58 PM - Re: registration results (linn Walters)
14. 06:35 PM - Re: registration results (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
15. 07:17 PM - Re: registration results (sarg314)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Glen,
I used the baffle kit from Vans. I haven't cut down the front deflectors. I
will let you know about the gaps as soon as I have the top cowl off again --
in the next few days.
I have a big SW oil cooler fed with a 4 inch SCAT tube on the right side of
the firewall. Active area is 5.5 by 5.5 inches. I made up an aluminum shroud
which is about half good as far as the airflow goes. The cooler is mounted at
about 40 degrees from vertical. My oil temp very seldom goes above the
vernatherm temp of about 190 degrees. Most I see is about 230 on climbout on a
really hot day. I could force it higher by climbing slower, longer though. I'd
say I have about the right amount of oil cooling. I went to the SW cooler
after using a Niagara at first. The SW helped -- maybe 10 or 15 degrees.
One weird thing is that my number 4 CHT runs about 20 degrees cooler than the
other 3. Typical temps are around 350 degrees F. with number 4 being 320.
The other 3 are usually within a 15 degree window, but no. 4 is always
noticeably cooler. This almost has to be the baffling. It has been the same with
2
different engines, although I used the same fuel injection and mags on both. I
tested the CHT probes by clamping no. 2 and no. 4 together in a piece of
copper tubing, and heating it with my hot air gun. They tracked together within
about 1 degree F.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
IO-360-A1A
In a message dated 12/22/2006 10:25:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
martin@gbonline.com writes:
Glen,
All baffles are tight. Some other thoughts!
The IO 360 is a partially oil cooled engine. What size is your oil cooler?
What Brand? How is it installed ? Are your oil temps cool or hot ( ideal
is 190 - 210 degrees f )
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
IO-390 (first engine was IO-360 10/1 operated 900 hr
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 8:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
>
> Howdy D & D-
>
> Interesting observations. As I'm tinkering with cooling considerations
> and
> details, I'd love to run this to ground. A lot of info has been posted
> piecemeal, and I'd like to bring it all together in one place and clarify
> some stuff for posterity as well as my own edification. As I understand
> it:
>
> First, I absolutely agree that leaky baffles are very significant and the
> elimination of leaks is of prime importance.
>
> Looking closely at my 200 hp angle valve IO-360, the casting part line on
> the fwd side of #2 cyl and the aft side of #3 cyl in the region from the
> inbd edge of the intake port to the outbd end of the head is tangent to /
> flush with the edge of the cooling fins. From the inbd edge of the port
> to
> the base of the head, the min depth of the fins is about 1/8 inch.
> Therefore, baffles that were truly tight in this region would cause zero
> airflow around the back side of the #3 head and the lower front quadrant
> of
> #2 at their extremities, and little airflow through the next region inbd.
>
> My baffle kit from Van's fits such that there is a gap on the order of 1/8
> inch between #3 cyl and the rear baffle. The way my particular baffle
> parts came, this gap is not really adjustable and isn't a product of
> installation error.
>
> There is about 3/32 gap between the heads in the inter cylinder area.
>
> I have no idea if Van's baffle kits have changed over time, and if perhaps
> some folks with the angle valve engines have older baffle kits that might
> not have the clearance gap built in.
>
> When convenient, could either / both of you guys verify that there is in
> fact no gap between your rear baffles and #3 at the casting part line?
> I'm
> not throwing rocks, casting aspersions, or anything else negative, but I
> am
> truly intrigued by your comments in light of other's experiences as well
> as
> the config of my baffle kit.
>
> TIA-
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>> Glen,
>> I also do not think that this is correct.
>> I have 1400 hrs on my RV8. No gap, no cooling problem
>> I have always been taught that loose and poorly fit baffles were the
>> primary cause of cooling problems.
>
>
>> I don't think this is correct, Glen.
>>
>> Dan Hopper
>> RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
In a message dated 12/23/2006 8:48:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
One weird thing is that my number 4 CHT runs about 20 degrees cooler than the
other 3. Typical temps are around 350 degrees F. with number 4 being 320.
The other 3 are usually within a 15 degree window, but no. 4 is always
noticeably cooler. This almost has to be the baffling. It has been the same with
2
different engines, although I used the same fuel injection and mags on both. I
tested the CHT probes by clamping no. 2 and no. 4 together in a piece of
copper tubing, and heating it with my hot air gun. They tracked together within
about 1 degree F.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
IO-360-A1A
Oops! My math is not too good. I should say 20 or 30 degrees cooler on
number 4.
Dan
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? |
Here ya' go. Just need to "insert" the pitot in the proper location.
do not archive
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83185#83185
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/curiousgeorge_110.jpg
Message 4
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| Subject: | Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings |
I've always thought of LPS 3 as a corrosion inhibiter more than a lubricant.
It makes a waxy film, but isn't that great as a lube. I've been using
Boeshield T-9 for quite a while now. It penetrates, lubes and stays around a
long time. I'd avoid silicone based lubes if you're going to be painting.
The stuff is really hard to get rid of.
http://www.boeshield.com/
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Thanks for the tip. I use Boelube for my cutters and drills. I haven't
tried T-9. I see that you can buy it at Sears, looks like you have to buy
it with an acid etch too for about $20. I think the can of Super-Lube is
$8.00:
http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=31110-F
I used to use Triflow in the past but don't care for it much. It depends on
your application I guess, but I cannot stand the smell of it. If you use it
once every six months I guess it doesn't matter much. I use lubricants like
this every day though and I won't use something this stinky.
I agree with the caution about using silicones. I have never found them to
work as lubricants and the paint issue is a real problem. Note that while
any lubricant may cause problems with surface contamination and Super Lube
could too, it is a synthetic hydrocarbon (Polytetrafluoroethylene) and not a
silicone.
Dave
Message 5
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| Subject: | Home simulator, which |
My experience with the flight simulator and models below has been that for
every hour that I fly the simulators I spend 100+ in the hanger... er garage
working on the project. Really a good motivational tool & fun. To be honest
though, I have not used the flight simulator for several months...
I have MSFS 2004 and the RV7 & RV7A models from Factory Flight Simulations
http://www.flightfactory-simulations.com/ . I also have the Dynon plug ins
from Factory Flight Simulations but be aware that you can only load the
Dynon models into the standard MSFS airplanes(not the RV7's!).
I have the typical CH products pedals and yoke, I occasionally will use the
Logitech Wingman Force 3d stick.
The nice thing about the RV models, well it's an RV. Factory has integrated
maintenance requirements and operational parameters into the RV7 models. In
other words, don't drop flaps above 100, you'll be spending money from the
maintenance budget. The belly also gets dirty...
The folks at Factory Flight simulations told me last May that the issue with
their Dynon models and the RV7 models is that the RV models were coded in a
way that prevents the Dynon's from loading when you actually "fly". You can
add the Dynons to the panel during setup but when you "Fly" the standard
panel is back. I was told (by their VP of Sales - lips moving) they would
re-code the RV7's to allow the Dynons to load, I was given the expectation
that the patch would be available early last summer... note lips were
moving.
Bottom line, spend the $7.98 for a really cool addition to MSFS 2004, but
wait to buy the Dynon models until the problem is resolved with the loading,
unless you want to fly a Cessna with a Dynon...
Also look into Mega City USA from PC Aviator, nice hi res photo realistic
augmentation to the MSFS scenery backgrounds
You'll need a hot rod PC, a very good display card, and no parts that need
attention in the garage...
Have fun, now back to debur, dimple, wash, rinse, prime... repeat until done
Happy Holidays!
Dave Cordner
RV-7 N898DC (rsvd)
Fuse - Tippin the canoe soon!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nellis
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Home simulator, which
I am flying X-Plane. http://www.x-plane.com . There
are tone of planes to download at www.x-plane.org.
You need a 2 gig+ CPU to handle the program. Get lots
of VRAM. I fly with a MS joystick and CH rudder
pedals. There is a version of X-Plane that is used
for logging sim time towards an ATP rating. Try
flying a GIV through a thunderstorm without an
autopilot. If you can keep from going inverted, you
are good.
Dave
--- bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
> bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hello:
>
> Now that winter is here, even in Florida, there
> are days not the best
> to fly...
> Sooo" I was thinking it would be a good idea to
> have an inexpensive
> simulator, I can use at home, and practice whatever,
> it can be done..
>
> The questions is what is the acceptable one, at
> a reasonable price...
>
> and what I need to have in the P.C. I HAVE WINDOWS
> XP, I am not sure
> what else as to programs.
>
> If some one now has one, and it is using it, would
> like to heard comments
> and details..
>
> Thanks
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Do not archive..
>
>
> Click on
> about
> provided
> www.buildersbooks.com
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Home simulator, which |
Quoting Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>:
>
> I am flying X-Plane. http://www.x-plane.com . There
> are tone of planes to download at www.x-plane.org.
> You need a 2 gig+ CPU to handle the program. Get lots
> of VRAM. I fly with a MS joystick and CH rudder
> pedals. There is a version of X-Plane that is used
> for logging sim time towards an ATP rating. Try
> flying a GIV through a thunderstorm without an
> autopilot. If you can keep from going inverted, you
> are good.
>
> Dave
> Thganks Dave for the info. A question, where one get the
rudder pedals, and the joy stick,,prices? ( I have a joy stick I bought
at Best buy I think, does this one qould work?
Happy Holidays..
bert
> --- bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
>
> > bertrv6@highstream.net
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello:
> >
> > Now that winter is here, even in Florida, there
> > are days not the best
> > to fly...
> > Sooo" I was thinking it would be a good idea to
> > have an inexpensive
> > simulator, I can use at home, and practice whatever,
> > it can be done..
> >
> > The questions is what is the acceptable one, at
> > a reasonable price...
> >
> > and what I need to have in the P.C. I HAVE WINDOWS
> > XP, I am not sure
> > what else as to programs.
> >
> > If some one now has one, and it is using it, would
> > like to heard comments
> > and details..
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bert
> >
> > rv6a
> >
> > Do not archive..
> >
> >
> >
> > Click on
> > about
> > provided
> > www.buildersbooks.com
> > Admin.
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Home simulator, which |
Quoting Patrick Kelley <webmaster@flion.com>:
>
> I'm using MS Flight Simulator 2004, CH USB yoke and pedals, and Flight
> Factory Simulations RV-7/7A (under $10). It's ok for practicing procedures
> with. I also enjoy FS X, flying the Mooney Bravo as a sort of RV
> substitute. FFS's RV model works with FS X but requires their application
> to unlock the gauges on the control panel. Their application is pretty cool
> in any case, it includes maintenance, realistic failures, even the aircraft
> getting gradually dirty. They just sent me an email today responding to my
> query and say they intend to come out with an update that works with FS X,
> even though they have not given a timeframe. My guess is that it will be
> soon, as additional models from other publishers are already being released.
>
> Pat Kelley - RV-6A - Bolting the wings in place
>
Thanks for the Info Pat, now where can one see one of these, and how
much would be?
Is that Ms Flight Simulator, the mfg. name?
Happy Holidays....
Bert
do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> bertrv6@highstream.net
> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 4:03 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Home simulator, which
>
>
>
> Hello:
>
> Now that winter is here, even in Florida, there are days not the best
> to fly...
> Sooo" I was thinking it would be a good idea to have an inexpensive
> simulator, I can use at home, and practice whatever, it can be done..
>
> The questions is what is the acceptable one, at a reasonable price...
>
> and what I need to have in the P.C. I HAVE WINDOWS XP, I am not sure
> what else as to programs.
>
> If some one now has one, and it is using it, would like to heard comments
> and details..
>
> Thanks
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Do not archive..
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Home simulator, which |
Bert,
I'm sorry, I assumed you knew what the short names were. I was referring to
Microsoft Flight Simulator 2004 and Microsoft Flight Simulator X. CH is the
manufacturer of my controls and, as Dave mentioned (with a link, even)
Flight Factory Simulations makes the RV-7/7A add-on. I recommend AvShop
(http://www.avshop.com) for all your needs. Just don't blame me if you end
up spending a bunch of money for an IFR trainer; they have the professional
software and hardware, too - not to mention 'ordinary' pilot supplies. Have
a good time.
PatK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bertrv6@highstream.net
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 10:07 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Home simulator, which
Thanks for the Info Pat, now where can one see one of these, and how
much would be?
Is that Ms Flight Simulator, the mfg. name?
Happy Holidays....
Bert
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Installing Vacuum pump Fittings |
Hello I am having trouble with the vacuum pump fittings, on the pump its
self and on the instruments. I have sprayed them with silicone spray like the
directions say. They say not to use Teflon tape or any liquid form stuff. But
when I install the fittings with the silicon and just snug it up I can't get
the fittings off without destroying the fittings I Evan had one snap off when
I
tried to back it out and I only snuged it up a minute before. Any one have
any idea what I am doing wrong. I am using the Rapco vacuum pump Kit. Thanks
Bill
Message 10
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| Subject: | registration results |
Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA
registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I
mailed in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the registration
back. Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected.
Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people hunt
me down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: registration results |
Congrats...!
I heard there was an effort to get things moving
faster in Oklahoma. Good News!
Do not archive
__________________________________________________
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: registration results |
As an ahem, er, "hypothetical exercise" only, are there any tips to pass
along as to how to minimize the State Sales Tax? Anonymous replies only
will be greatly appreciated as I'm just a few months away from facing this
dilemma.
Anonymous
RV7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 5:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: registration results
>
> Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA
> registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I mailed
> in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the registration back.
> Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected.
>
> Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people hunt me
> down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions.
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: registration results |
Register it as a "Garry Special" or something other than an RV7A.
Supply the tax guys with invoices and receipts totalling whatever you
feel is a reasonable compromise on the tax. Better to be proactive
...... and not wait for them to send you the bill as it may include
interest and penalties ...... depending on how bad the state needs the
income!
Linn
do not archive
Garry wrote:
>
> As an ahem, er, "hypothetical exercise" only, are there any tips to
> pass along as to how to minimize the State Sales Tax? Anonymous
> replies only will be greatly appreciated as I'm just a few months away
> from facing this dilemma.
>
> Anonymous
> RV7A
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 5:08 PM
> Subject: RV-List: registration results
>
>
>>
>> Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA
>> registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I
>> mailed in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the
>> registration back. Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected.
>>
>> Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people
>> hunt me down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions.
>> --
>> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: registration results |
Just remember - It isn't an airplane until it has been inspected and
approved for flight !! Until then it is a collection of metal pieces.
I went through that in Calif. and Arkansas - sent them a letter so stating
both times and it worked. I did notify them when it was ready to fly.
Bob Olds RV-4 - twice
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: registration results |
Garry:
I think they are unpredictable. I know a velocity builder here in
arizona who showed them a receipt for just the kit and they were
satisfied with just the tax on that. It was probably about 1/3 of what
he spent on the plane.
Another builder said he pointed out that most of the purchases were
made more than 5 years ago and they let him off the hook entirely. Some
statute of limitiations, he claimed. I figure I'll have to play it by ear.
Garry wrote:
>
> As an ahem, er, "hypothetical exercise" only, are there any tips to
> pass along as to how to minimize the State Sales Tax? Anonymous
> replies only will be greatly appreciated as I'm just a few months away
> from facing this dilemma.
>
> Anonymous
> RV7A
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