Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:31 AM - Re: viable alternatives to the Hartzell C/S Prop (JVanLaak@aol.com)
2. 07:21 AM - Re: Flap actuator rod end bearings (Kevin Horton)
3. 07:26 AM - Re: Pitot Static and Transponder Testing (Phil Birkelbach)
4. 09:14 AM - Re: Riveting curved skin surface (Doug Fischer)
5. 09:23 AM - Re: Riveting curved skin surface (Richard Dudley)
6. 09:41 AM - "Wig-Wag" Flasher (John Fasching)
7. 04:20 PM - Garmin XM and GPS antennas (vft@aol.com)
8. 05:46 PM - Re: Riveting curved skin surface (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
9. 07:00 PM - Re: "Wig-Wag" Flasher (RV6 Flyer)
10. 08:21 PM - Re: Garmin XM and GPS antennas (Larry Bowen)
11. 10:01 PM - Re: Garmin XM and GPS antennas (Doug Gray)
12. 10:31 PM - throttle cable routing (sarg314)
13. 10:45 PM - Navaid Auto Pilot For Sale (Robin Marks)
14. 11:15 PM - Re: "Wig-Wag" Flasher (HCRV6@comcast.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: viable alternatives to the Hartzell C/S Prop |
Does anyone have experience with Avia automatic propellers
_http://www.aviapropeller.com/_ (http://www.aviapropeller.com/) ? I looked at one on display
at Sun N Fun and it was appealing.
Jim Van Laak
RV-6 N79RL
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator rod end bearings |
On 6 Jan 2007, at 01:57, Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>> It would be possible for a builder to do a flight test to check
>> what would happen if this failure occurred. If I were doing the
>> flight test, I would do it as follows:
>> Remove one flap rod, and use some duct tape at the inboard
>> trailing edge of the flap to hold it up against the fuselage.
>> This is to ensure that it remains retracted on the ground and
>> during take off.
>> Review bail out procedures, and select a test area in an
>> uninhabited area. Don a parachute and helmet. ...
>
> Wow, Kevin, reading that gave me the chills. I think I'll wait for
> the results of your testing! :-)
Maybe it sounds a bit morbid to detail the preparations in that way,
but this is exactly the process that everyone should do before any
flight tests that are probing the edges of the envelope. It is far
better to be over prepared than to be caught by surprise.
I lost a very good friend who chose not to wear a parachute on a
flight test which was exploring the edge of the envelope with a new
flap angle. They lost control, then screwed up the procedure to use
the stall recovery chute, because they had not reviewed the details
of this procedure before the test. They could have bailed out if
they had been wearing parachutes, but they weren't, so three lives
were lost.
Prepare for every test flight like your life may depend upon it.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static and Transponder Testing |
I don't think it's a question of not doing it, rather it's a question of
having to do it "officially". It's an easy test to do for one's own
satisfaction but if you need to have the magic certificate number in the
logbook, it becomes somewhat more expensive and much less convenient..
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Gerry Filby wrote:
> Just read my own post ... I would add ...
>
> ... But why on earth would you not want to do it ? Don't you want to
> know if your pitot/static system is functioning properly ?
>
> g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* Gerry Filby [mailto:gerf@gerf.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, January 5, 2007 05:48 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Pitot Static and Transponder Testing
>
> I've just been through this - the leak test is NOT required for
> VFR Day/Nigh flight.
>
> g
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* Randy Lervold [mailto:randy@romeolima.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, January 5, 2007 04:51 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Pitot Static and Transponder Testing
>
> Mike, just to clarify, if you're getting a new plane in the
> air that is NOT intended for IFR flight there is no
> pitot/static system leak test required, only the encoder and
> transponder? My understanding, maybe wrongly, was that the
> leak test WAS required as part of initial certification.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Lervold
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Mike Robertson <mailto:mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 04, 2007 6:41 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV-List: Pitot Static and Transponder Testing
>
> The requirement is in FAR 91. I am sorry but I don't have
> my regs with me at the moment and cann't quote exact
> paragraph. Basically you need to get the transponder and
> encoder checked every two years for any type of flying.
> You only need to get a pitot/staic check done if you fly
> IFR or if the pitot/static system has been broken open for
> any reason.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> > Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2007 18:13:44 -0500
> > From: rhdudley1@bellsouth.net
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Pitot Static and Transponder Testing
> >
> <rhdudley1@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > Can someone please steer me to the FARs that address the
> periodic
> > testing of the pitot static system, altimeter,
> transponder and encoder?
> > All those tests were done before my first flight. I'm
> now approaching
> > the two year point and would like to find the details of
> what tests must
> > be done before the end of the two years.
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Richard Dudley
> > -6A flyi========================<>
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> *
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting curved skin surface |
Has anybody used fuel tank dimple dies for this area in lieu of
countersinking every hole?
Doug Fischer
Jenison, MI
-9A Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: David Maib
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface
Vince and Larry,
Thanks for the tips. We had much better luck today. It seems that we
were both pushing way too hard on the bucking bar. That, coupled with
making sure the rivet heads were sitting flush in the dimples, took care
of the problem. We pretty much finished the tailcone today without any
more problems.
Thanks again. This list is priceless.
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Tailcone
Do Not Archive
Here is what I did for this area on my RV8:
1. Don't use the swivel rivet head, use the fixed head that you may or
not
have received with your rivet gun. The fixed rivet head is easier to
control, won't slip off, and hits just the rivet.
2. In addition to dimpling, you will have to slightly counter sink the
dimpled holes with the deburring tool or the counter sink tool. I am
assuming these are flush rivet holes that you used a dimple tool (like
in
Avery) to create the dimple.
Reason for going a little deeper is that the dimpling tool does a good
job,
but I found that in weird areas, curves, and thick skins, I had to
slightly
countersink the wholes to get a truly flush fit.
For experiment, dimple a piece of scrap, put in a flush rivet and
observe
the fit. Next use the deburring tool to deepen the dimple slightly.
Insert
the flush rivet and you will see that it sits better in the hole.
This technique is especially helpful on the thicker skins.
Hope this helps,
Vince H.
RV8 - Finish
On Dec 30, 2006, at 7:11 AM, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
David, when possible, rivet using the back rivet tool rather than the
flush tool. I know you cannot back rivet them all however.
The key to a perfect rivet is to hold the rivet gun head on the rivet
perfectly square and have the bucker who is on the other side maintain
just enough pressure to keep the bucking bar on the shop side of the
rivet so the rivet is not pushed out while bucking. When back riveting
the bucker must keep the bar perfectly square to the rivet with
sufficient pressure to not get pushed out of the hole by the riveter.
Do not be afraid of drilling out bad rivets if they truly deserve it,
but consider using a rivet shaver or small file or roto sander to gently
remove the high spots. You will want the high spots and high edges
eliminated when you go to painting and wet sanding if you expect a good
even paint job. Are you sure you have properly dimpled the problem
areas? Also, when riveting to be sure the rivet will sit down fully in
the hole before putting the gun to it. If not, use a gently turn or
three with a countersinking tool over the dimpled hole.
Best wishes, Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib@mac.com>
To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface
We are having some difficulty riveting the curved area of the side
skin where it meets the belly skin on the RV-10 tailcone. We have too
many rivet heads that are sitting "proud" and will have to be drilled
out. Looking for any tips or techniques.
--------
David Maib
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84383#84383
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
c=====================
http://forums.matronics.com
===========
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting curved skin surface |
Doug,
Yes, I did use tank dimple dies. The rationale was that they allowed for
the ProSeal under the rivets. The result was good though I don't have
any comparison with the normal dimple dies.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
Doug Fischer wrote:
> Has anybody used fuel tank dimple dies for this area in lieu of
> countersinking every hole?
>
> Doug Fischer
> Jenison, MI
> -9A Wings
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Maib <mailto:dmaib@mac.com>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 10:20 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface
>
> Vince and Larry,
>
> Thanks for the tips. We had much better luck today. It seems that
> we were both pushing way too hard on the bucking bar. That,
> coupled with making sure the rivet heads were sitting flush in the
> dimples, took care of the problem. We pretty much finished the
> tailcone today without any more problems.
> Thanks again. This list is priceless.
>
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> Tailcone
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Here is what I did for this area on my RV8:
>
> 1. Don't use the swivel rivet head, use the fixed head that you
> may or not
> have received with your rivet gun. The fixed rivet head is easier to
> control, won't slip off, and hits just the rivet.
>
> 2. In addition to dimpling, you will have to slightly counter sink the
> dimpled holes with the deburring tool or the counter sink tool. I am
> assuming these are flush rivet holes that you used a dimple tool
> (like in
> Avery) to create the dimple.
>
> Reason for going a little deeper is that the dimpling tool does a
> good job,
> but I found that in weird areas, curves, and thick skins, I had to
> slightly
> countersink the wholes to get a truly flush fit.
>
> For experiment, dimple a piece of scrap, put in a flush rivet and
> observe
> the fit. Next use the deburring tool to deepen the dimple
> slightly. Insert
> the flush rivet and you will see that it sits better in the hole.
>
> This technique is especially helpful on the thicker skins.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Vince H.
> RV8 - Finish
>
> On Dec 30, 2006, at 7:11 AM, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
> <lhelming@sigecom.net <mailto:lhelming@sigecom.net>>
>
> David, when possible, rivet using the back rivet tool rather than
> the flush tool. I know you cannot back rivet them all however.
>
> The key to a perfect rivet is to hold the rivet gun head on the
> rivet perfectly square and have the bucker who is on the other
> side maintain just enough pressure to keep the bucking bar on the
> shop side of the rivet so the rivet is not pushed out while
> bucking. When back riveting the bucker must keep the bar
> perfectly square to the rivet with sufficient pressure to not get
> pushed out of the hole by the riveter. Do not be afraid of
> drilling out bad rivets if they truly deserve it, but consider
> using a rivet shaver or small file or roto sander to gently remove
> the high spots. You will want the high spots and high edges
> eliminated when you go to painting and wet sanding if you expect a
> good even paint job. Are you sure you have properly dimpled the
> problem areas? Also, when riveting to be sure the rivet will sit
> down fully in the hole before putting the gun to it. If not, use
> a gently turn or three with a countersinking tool over the dimpled
> hole.
>
> Best wishes, Larry in Indiana
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib@mac.com
> <mailto:dmaib@mac.com>>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>>
> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:45 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface
>
>
>> <mailto:dmaib@mac.com>" <dmaib@mac.com <mailto:dmaib@mac.com>>
>>
>> We are having some difficulty riveting the curved area of the
>> side skin where it meets the belly skin on the RV-10 tailcone. We
>> have too many rivet heads that are sitting "proud" and will have
>> to be drilled out. Looking for any tips or techniques.
>>
>> --------
>> David Maib
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84383#84383
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.c=====================
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | "Wig-Wag" Flasher |
I finally found a very small, relatively inexpensive, and well-designed
control module that will flash your landing/taxi lights.
www.periheliondesign.com has a control module that has its own toggle
switch and is about the size of the old 50-cent piece. It fits into a
standard toggle switch hole on the instrument panel. I used it for
flashing halogen lamps (don't have landing/taxi lights) and it works
great. Cost is $88 including shipping. A very compact and fool-proof
unit.
FWIW - no connection with this firm.
John at Salida, CO
Message 7
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| Subject: | Garmin XM and GPS antennas |
Does anyine have any experience running the Garmin 396/496 XM antenna next to
the external GPS antenna. I'm planning on mounting them just underneth my glare
shield (glare shield is fiber glass). Rockets have pretty small glare shields
so this would put the antennas pretty close to each other. A second antenna
from a Garmin 250 would be very close as well.
Danny Melnik
F1 #25
Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
________________________________________________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Riveting curved skin surface |
I used the standard flush rivet tool with bucking bar on the inside of the
fuselage for riveting the turtledeck skin to the bulkheads. (My claustrophobic
wife was inside with the bucking bar!)
After driving the rivets I went inside the fuselage and took a small hammer
and big punch and gave each rivet a little smack. The dent at each rivet was
easily removed as the skin tightened up to exactly where it should be. Its
like the skin wanted to be straight, and the dented bulkhead was holding it in.
Use the punch backwards and keep your fingers holding the punch against the
skin to be sure that you don't slip off the rivet. By backwards I mean use the
1/2 in square end of the punch on the shop head, and hammer on the (say) 3/8
inch round end. This is much easier to do than to explain.
I think this little trick could be used lots of places where the skin has
been dented in by driving the rivets without enough force on the bar. Use your
own judgment and common sense, please!
I like to use minimum force on the bar until the rivet is set a little, and
then increase the force on the bar. In other words, use more force on the gun
than the bar at first. After the rivet is set enough that you can't push it
back out, push harder with the bar. This way the skin won't dent in.
Just my $.02 worth.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Flying since July 2004
Message 9
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| Subject: | "Wig-Wag" Flasher |
John:
$88 is too expensive.
The B&C Wig Wag is only $22.
http://www.bandc.biz/WigWag.html
I can buy a matching switch like I used in the rest of my panel for a lot
less than the $66 I have left over after buying the B&C Wig Wag. Yes the
B&C Wig Wag is only rated at 150 Watts and not 250 W.
I have not seen landing lights over 100 W. Where are you finding landing
lights that you need a 250 W flasher?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,973 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: "Wig-Wag" Flasher
I finally found a very small, relatively inexpensive, and well-designed
control module that will flash your landing/taxi lights.
www.periheliondesign.com has a control module that has its own toggle switch
and is about the size of the old 50-cent piece. It fits into a standard
toggle switch hole on the instrument panel. I used it for flashing halogen
lamps (don't have landing/taxi lights) and it works great. Cost is $88
including shipping. A very compact and fool-proof unit.
FWIW - no connection with this firm.
John at Salida, CO
_________________________________________________________________
Communicate instantly! Use your Hotmail address to sign into Windows Live
Messenger now. http://get.live.com/messenger/overview
Message 10
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| Subject: | Garmin XM and GPS antennas |
Yes. Two XM and one GPS right next to eachother. No problems observed.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8, RV-7...
Larry@BowenAero.com
<http://bowenaero.com/> http://BowenAero.com
_____
From: vft@aol.com [mailto:vft@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 7:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin XM and GPS antennas
Does anyine have any experience running the Garmin 396/496 XM antenna next
to the external GPS antenna. I'm planning on mounting them just underneth my
glare shield (glare shield is fiber glass). Rockets have pretty small glare
shields so this would put the antennas pretty close to each other. A second
antenna from a Garmin 250 would be very close as well.
Danny Melnik
F1 #25
Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
_____
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin XM and GPS antennas |
Minimum separation between antennas should be one quarter of the longest
wavelength. For 2.5Ghz this is approx 31.5mm or 1-1/4 inches.
Doug Gray
On Sat, 2007-01-06 at 19:18 -0500, vft@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyine have any experience running the Garmin 396/496 XM antenna
> next to the external GPS antenna. I'm planning on mounting them
> just underneth my glare shield (glare shield is fiber glass). Rockets
> have pretty small glare shields so this would put the antennas pretty
> close to each other. A second antenna from a Garmin 250 would be very
> close as well.
>
> Danny Melnik
> F1 #25
> Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | throttle cable routing |
I'm having some trouble routing my throttle cable. I'm using an eyeball
firewall pass-thru. The easy route has the eyeball turned so far over
that the cable is very close to rubbing on the eyeball frame itself.
Unfortunately it can't be made to come close enough to any engine mount
tubes to anchor it in the usual way with an Adel clamp that's attached
to an Adel clamp that's attached to the tube. (My throttle cable
enters high on the right side firewall and snakes down.)
Is there an approved way to use Adel clamps and a metal "strap" or wire
attached to an engine mount tube to pull a hose or control cable into a
better position?
--
Tom S. RV-6A
Message 13
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| Subject: | Navaid Auto Pilot For Sale |
Navaid Autopilot AP 1
Mint Condition
3 years, 300 hours
$600.00 Free Shipping.
Robin at MrMoisture.com
Do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: "Wig-Wag" Flasher |
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