Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:11 AM - Tip-up canopy drilling DNA (Randall E Russell)
2. 04:23 AM - Re: Basicwiring HELP (David Maib)
3. 04:54 AM - Re: Basicwiring HELP (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 04:55 AM - Re: Basicwiring HELP (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 05:06 AM - Re: Basicwiring HELP corrected schematic (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 06:11 AM - TruTrak DFC 250 AS For Sale (MikeEasley@aol.com)
7. 07:25 AM - Re: Why is it such a bad thing - was family of pilot awarded (Mark Sletten)
8. 07:28 AM - Re: TruTrak DFC 250 AS For Sale (Steven DiNieri)
9. 08:30 AM - Aerobatics, CG (Richard Crosley)
10. 08:43 AM - Re: Aerobatics, CG (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 08:58 AM - DFC 250 Sold! (MikeEasley@aol.com)
12. 09:00 AM - Re: Garmin 396 XM Reception (Nuisance)
13. 09:15 AM - Re: Looking for a Certain Manufacturer (John Fasching)
14. 11:07 AM - Re: Aerobatics, CG (Bill Boyd)
15. 01:04 PM - Re: Aerobatics, just say NO to inverted Spins! HOW TO ()
16. 04:37 PM - AWO (Wheeler North)
17. 05:15 PM - Re: AWO (Tim Bryan)
18. 08:22 PM - Re: Basicwiring HELP (Curt Reimer)
19. 10:08 PM - Re: Basicwiring HELP (Dave Nellis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tip-up canopy drilling DNA |
Thanks for the help on countersinking question. Randy C-FYOO DO NOT
ARCHIVE
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| Subject: | Re: Basicwiring HELP |
Dana,
The airplane I fly at work has just such a switch, so I know it can
be done. However, I am severely electrically challenged, so cannot
answer the rest of your question. Diode, Smiodes,
Iods........................ I feel your pain!
Do not Archive
David Maib
#40559
On Jan 20, 2007, at 12:49 PM, Dana Overall wrote:
Diode, Smiodes, Iods..........................................how can
I do this, or can I do this, with the simplest of installs? Can I go
one switch up for high, down for low. Each yellow wire is labeled HI
one one LO on the other. Is it even possible. I was just looking
for a way to use one of the switches I have left over to and possibly
tie all the yellow HI's together, all the LO's together and
Shazam.........either high intensity or low
intensity.............with no middle ground.
It's OK if you call me electrically stupid, I'll answer to that:-),
just don't talk diodes, smiodes and iods.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
> From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Basis wiring HELP
> Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:20:38 -0500
>
> <retasker@optonline.net>
>
> Actually, for the same voltage drop and the same current draw there
> WILL be exactly the same heating of the diodes, albeit spread over
> all the diodes used vs the one resistor used.
>
> Diodes do have the advantage you pointed out of having a relatively
> constant voltage drop up to their rated current.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> Bill Boyd wrote:
>
>>
>> A diode differs from a resistor in this application; the forward drop
>> in voltage across a diode is virtually constant regardless of current
>> draw. As long as diode current ratings are followed, there will not
>> be excessive heating of the diode in this application (similar to the
>> wattage rating of a resistor, but you have to know the final current
>> ahead of time to size one of those.)
>>
>> Just more to think about.
>>
>> -Bill
>>
>> On 1/20/07, Charles Reiche <charlieray@optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>> <charlieray@optonline.net>
>>>
>>> Dana,
>>> The main problem with Bright/Dim kind of circuits is that you
>>> have to know
>>> the over all current flow for all the lights per circuit. If you
>>> go and
>>> change something in the future of one set of bulbs burn out, it
>>> changes your
>>> total brightness on the dim setting. You do this with the basic V=IR
>>> equation, you have to know the total current flow of your lights
>>> when hooked
>>> to your power source. Here is an example. I hook all my lights
>>> to a power
>>> supply that can give me my "running" voltage of about 13.85 volts
>>> when the
>>> airplane is running, with an ammeter inline I measure 2 amps of
>>> lighting
>>> load..... 13.85=2xI Solving for I you get 6.925 Ohms. This is
>>> the basic
>>> resistance of all your lights put together. To make the lights
>>> half dim,
>>> you need to make the resistance twice that of what you start
>>> with. So you
>>> need a 7 ohm resistor that is rated for, P=IE..... P= 2x13.85 so
>>> roughly 30
>>> Watts!!! Thats kind of a LARGE resistor. and its there under
>>> your panel in
>>> a small place baking away making heat. I would suggest researching
>>> Transistorized dimming circuits like the one here that EDMO
>>> dealers sell.
>>> http://www.edmo.com/index.php?
>>> module=products&func=display&prod_id=18485
>>>
>>> I know you are pressed for time and have put all the HARD parts
>>> off till the
>>> last minute :) but I think you will find a variable dimming
>>> system will make
>>> your night flying much more enjoyable.
>>>
>>> An appropriately rated rehostat will dissapate power (again a
>>> heat machine
>>> under your panel) and something like this may be what you want...
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/rheostat.php
>>> put a on off switch ahead of this sucker so its not contantly
>>> making heat
>>> when you have the lights off.
>>>
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lc40.php
>>> This system looks nice due to its 4 channels of 1.5A each that
>>> can be tied
>>> together and controlled with one knob.
>>> I suggest keeping radios separate from flight instruments due to
>>> variations
>>> in overall brightness.
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/k11aircraft.php
>>> This one has an adjustable master following system where you can
>>> have those
>>> bright systems lag behind say the less bright flight instruments.
>>>
>>> Hope some of this helps.
>>>
>>> Charles Reiche
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2007 7:29 AM
>>> Subject: RV-List: Basis wiring HELP:-) Changed subject line, my bad.
>>>
_________________________________________________________________
Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with Windows
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Basicwiring HELP |
Heck, Dana, I am electrically challenged myself. I am humble. do not
archive
Sure, you could use one switch and put a resistor in it and run it to all
your lights. One of the others responded and gave you a very answer.
Depending what each lighted instrument requires, the brightness might be
less or more than desired with the SIMPLE approach. I used the knob thingy
from Vans. It works. Heck, it is an experimental plane. You could put on
some sunglasses each time you look at one particular instrument if it is too
bright. Better to put a resistor on each instrument low setting to get it
just the way you want that one. Then do the next one. I prefer the switch
to turn the lights off or on and the rheostat to bring them up or down to
desired brightness. I only used the rheostat, and I am creating hear all
the time which is nice in the winter. I did not want another switch on the
panel. Keep it simple. Hope this helps. Best wishes. Sounds like you
will be ready for your fly in in a month or so. I am going on a cruise and
am not sure if I will be able to make it this year. So, you might need so
many donuts.
Larry
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Basicwiring HELP |
Dana,
Not sure if this will help or not, but attached is a way to dim panel lights
with only a DPDT switch. No resistors or dimmer circuitry is necessary.
You need to group the loads so that the total current draw of the top half
and bottom half are the same, or one group will be dimmer than the other when
the switch is in the dim position (or LO).
If you don't have a center off switch, you could put another switch in the
line to plus 12 volts.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Basicwiring HELP corrected schematic |
Drat, I goofed up the simple schematic. Here is the corrected version.
The loads are in series in the DIM position and in parallel in the BRIGHT
position.
Dan
In a message dated 1/21/2007 8:00:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Dana,
Not sure if this will help or not, but attached is a way to dim panel lights
with only a DPDT switch. No resistors or dimmer circuitry is necessary.
You need to group the loads so that the total current draw of the top half
and bottom half are the same, or one group will be dimmer than the other when
the switch is in the dim position (or LO).
If you don't have a center off switch, you could put another switch in the
line to plus 12 volts.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 6
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| Subject: | TruTrak DFC 250 AS For Sale |
I have a TruTrak DFC 250 AS autopilot for sale. It's been in my plane for a
couple years and now I'm replacing it with a Sorcerer. TruTrak will only
discount the Sorcerer $2,100 if I trade in my DFC 250. I thought there might
be someone out there who didn't care about GPSV and would like a great deal on
the autopilot. The Sorcerer slides into the exact same tray, same wiring,
etc. so the buyer would get the brand new Sorcerer tray and hardware. You
would need to buy servos, about $2,200 for whatever aircraft you would be
installing the AP in.
I'm not making any money on this, just thought someone would want just about
all the bells and whistles TruTrak offers for about half price. First
$2,100 get it.
Mike Easley
Colorado Springs
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Why is it such a bad thing - was family of pilot awarded |
Sorry for all the garbage in my last post... if anyone wants a "clean" copy
to make for easier reading let me know off line. Gotta set format to "plain
text" for this list -- I forgot to use that checklist!
Message 8
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| Subject: | TruTrak DFC 250 AS For Sale |
I=92d like to call dibs on this, but I=92m having a hard time finding
specific
info because it was discontinued when the sorcerer was released. What
does
it do more than the dfc200 model???
Steve
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
MikeEasley@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 9:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: TruTrak DFC 250 AS For Sale
I have a TruTrak DFC 250 AS autopilot for sale. It's been in my plane
for a
couple years and now I'm replacing it with a Sorcerer. TruTrak will
only
discount the Sorcerer $2,100 if I trade in my DFC 250. I thought there
might be someone out there who didn't care about GPSV and would like a
great
deal on the autopilot. The Sorcerer slides into the exact same tray,
same
wiring, etc. so the buyer would get the brand new Sorcerer tray and
hardware. You would need to buy servos, about $2,200 for whatever
aircraft
you would be installing the AP in.
I'm not making any money on this, just thought someone would want just
about
all the bells and whistles TruTrak offers for about half price. First
$2,100 get it.
Mike Easley
Colorado Springs
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gat
or?RV-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
1/20/2007
--
1/20/2007
Message 9
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One of the more important considerations in doing aerobatics is CG.
Below is the short version of what happened to The Christen Eagle I
built many years ago after I sold it. The Eagle does great aerobatics,
but in can still be crashed. The pilot weighed 268 lbs (rear seat)
passenger weighed 225 lbs (front seat). Plus he went light on fuel
because he knew he was heavy. The fuel is forward of the panel, moving
the CG further aft. Below is the link to the long version. Having an
airplane you built crash and kill two guys is terrible, being in it is
far worse. Take a little duel.
Rich Crosley, RV-8, N948RC
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief2.asp?ev_id 041215X01994&ntsbno=DFW05
LA037&akey=1
NTSB Identification: DFW05LA037.
The docket is stored in the Docket Management System (DMS). Please
contact Records Management Division
14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
Accident occurred Sunday, December 12, 2004 in Morris, OK
Probable Cause Approval Date: 6/8/2005
Aircraft: Crosley Christen Eagle II, registration: N222CE
Injuries: 2 Fatal.
According to a witness, who was in a field approximately 1 mile north of
the accident site, the airplane was performing aerobatic maneuvers in
the area when the airplane flew straight up into the air, and then "fell
over into a flat spin." At this point, the witness estimated that the
airplane at an approximate altitude of 5,000 feet above the ground. The
witness heard the engine "revving up" as the airplane descended behind a
tree line. He then heard the airplane impact the ground and the engine
stop running. The 1,040-hour pilot, who was occupying the rear seat of
the tandem seating experimental bi-plane, purchased the airplane during
the first week of July 2004. Post-accident calculations revealed that
the airplane was over maximum gross weight and the center of gravity
(CG) was aft of the rearward limit. According to page 3-8 of the
Christen Eagle II Airplane Flight Manual, "Any particular Christen Eagle
II aircraft will recover from any spin type using standard recovery
techniques ONLY IF THE AIRCRAFT IS PROPERLY BALANCED. The CG of the
aircraft must be within design limits to ensure safe spin recovery. Any
aircraft can be dangerously loaded (CG beyond design limits) making spin
recovery extremely difficult or impossible. Weight and balance
considerations must be taken seriously and pilots must be absolutely
certain that the flight CG of their aircraft is within design limits."
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable
cause(s) of this accident as follows:
The pilot's intentional spin, which was unrecoverable due to exceeded
aircraft weight and balance limitations as a result of improper
preflight planning/preparation.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics, CG |
In a message dated 1/21/2007 11:32:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rcrosley@adelphia.net writes:
One of the more important considerations in doing aerobatics is CG. Below is
the short version of what happened to The Christen Eagle I built many years
ago after I sold it. The Eagle does great aerobatics, but in can still be
crashed. The pilot weighed 268 lbs (rear seat) passenger weighed 225 lbs (front
seat). Plus he went light on fuel because he knew he was heavy. The fuel is
forward of the panel, moving the CG further aft. Below is the link to the
long version. Having an airplane you built crash and kill two guys is terrible,
being in it is far worse. Take a little duel.
Rich Crosley, RV-8, N948RC
A very sad story indeed, Rich, but in no way your fault. We all do dumb
things from time to time, but this is a lesson we should all take very seriously.
Thanks for sharing it.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A -- about 200 hours in 2 years
do not archive
Message 11
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Thanks everyone. I had several responses, selected the first one to arrive
in my in-box and it's sold.
Mike Easley
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 XM Reception |
Funny, I have the same setup in my 8 and it works fine. My extension wire is about
6 feet long.
Maybe just try another extension?
John
--------
Life is too short to run lean of peak.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=89276#89276
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for a Certain Manufacturer |
That's the outfit...I found them on the internet, and thanks for the
help. I had lots of dope like that on the hard disk but a recent
computer crash caused the loss of most of my 'brain' assists.
thanks again
John
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics, CG |
Having an airplane you built crash and kill two guys is terrible,
> being in it is far worse. Take a little duel.
>
Good point - in a duel, usually only one person dies.
But dual instruction might save even more lives.
;-) ;-) just being a smarty... too snowy and bleak to aviate today.
-Stormy
> do not archive
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics, just say NO to inverted Spins! HOW TO |
>From: "Garry" <garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
>if one does not have a G meter, is there any other
>way to do rolls and loops? Second, George says
>don't do aerobatics with a passenger. Really? How
>else can I show off my new skills?
G-meter: I personally would have one, but now my
butt is calibrated, I can tell the load factor without
looking. For aileron rolls it is only a (1 to 1.5) g
maneuver so it's not a big deal. However if you mess
up, split-s and let the speed build on pullout, it's nice
to know how many g's the airframe felt for
maintenance and inspection purpose. It's a personal
opinion and suggestion, and I think its a good idea.
Passengers
The original article was for pilots NEW to acro. Sure
after you are current and comfortable than by all
means. I am all about flying (safely) with-in limitations
and rules. If you have two chutes required(*) and are
under Van's aerobatic gross and with in the CG,
current and proficient, than by all means take a friend
up. Bring a barf bag.
I have flown 30 people, pilots of all kinds and non-pilots
doing RV acro demos. I have had a 16 year old girl w/
no pilot time, loop unassisted with some practice and
one demo and a little coaching.
(Warning: Don't give your controls over to anyone unless
you are darn sure they know what they are doing. I have
2000 hours time giving instruction. There have been
many accidents where a RV pilot gave the controls over
to the passenger and they broke the plane or flew into
the ground. As a CFI, I can do it legally. The FAR's
prohibit pilots from letting passengers fly. Consider
the stick as the wing removal lever. RV's especially the
TANDAM RV's get super light pitch forces on the stick
with passengers. You take a guy who does airshows,
in a T-6 and have him pull a loop in a RV, he could very
well over control. RV's have light controls which are a
joy but can hurt you if you pull too hard. I don't want
to spread fear and ignorance. The RV is a 6 g plane,
strong but not invincible. Just be careful w passengers.)
Sitting as a passenger doing ACRO and actually flying
ACRO are two things. Keep your acro short. One or two
loops and rolls, don't do a 20 minute airshow unless you
want chunks blown all over you. You do build G tolerance
up. That's a known fact, and some people love roller
coasters and others don't.
Be sure to tell your passenger if they feel green to
speak up and say something and don't forget to look
at them for signs of stress, sweating, color, body
language (clenched fist). You don't want to scare
them.
*chutes dual req, RV4/6 built heavy have a hard
time being under acro gross with two adults and
chutes. Chutes are not that heavy but its a factor
and many RV's are built heavy. Fly within limits.
Some RV's are solo acro planes with two seats.
>From: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
> ...
>I have a 6 with an O-360 and fixed Sensenich and
>it seems to snap just fine (Ive only done it solo).
Personal preference Larry. I had a hard time with
them on my RV4. The plane would not snap fully and
would actually start to fly before the plane came back
around and pulled some G's, becoming more of a roll
than a snap. A snap roll, once you snap as you know,
is a low G maneuver. Van has wrote about this a lot
and talked about getting RV's ready for IAC
sportsman aerobatics competition. You can snap but
just not well for this reason, as I understand it and
from my attempts, that's what I experienced.
Stall strips are recommended by Van. I never liked
snap rolls myself, so I don't worry about it, but that is
the story on the RV, the wing is just so good it does
not want to stay stalled. If you are getting good clean
snaps than cool. I did them in the mighty Aerobat
C152 and I could not get the recovery perfect either,
so you are on you own. However snap away, that is
cool. I am going to try them on my new RV7 and might
play with stall strips.
Great questions and good talk guys, Cheers George
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
Message 16
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Well,
Bob,
Thanks for an interesting discussion. While I did not witness that accident
I have met several who did and were first responders. Over the years many
have supposed the belt was strapped around the unused stick, and as
mentioned, when I do that to prevent control banging in the wind I do it to
the left stick which is where I fly from in my -six. My tribute to Don is to
have possibly learned from this.
I did however question this theory and so sought to prove or disprove it. I
strapped my right belt around the right stick and then tried to climb in the
left seat. While I don't claim to be the most endowed soul out there I do
claim a portion of excess belly and this experience was somewhat painful in
several areas.
So, I thought to myself, being a true believer in imperical evidence, maybe
the issue was the added burden of being in a hurry. So in the second attempt
I tried the hop, skip, leap, Batman/Dukes of Hazard style of RV entry with
the stick strapped full aft and I will be getting released from the hospital
sometime in the next few months (although they may be putting me in another
kind of hospital after that).
So I'm not satisfied the stick strapped mistake thing could have been
reasonably possible. However a buckle could have ended up going down the
hole and ??? So I always keep unused straps and whatever secured. And when I
do, I think about that accident.
As for NTSB reports, if you've been to one and then read what they say
happened, well, they aren't always the most reliable thing. In fact I know
of one fly-in incident where the date and the N number were the only two
correctly listed facts.
RE EAA, I would be surprised if EAA is involved with this lawsuit. NWEAA is
the organization that was sued I believe, and the word I have is there will
be an NWEAA Fly-in at AWO next year, beyond that the experts say that Mt.
Rainier is scheduled to become active so it won't matter much.
And sadly, we just had the exact same accident occur in front of my hangar
row on a banner tow pickup two weeks ago. Crushed a bright young woman in an
instant as the Cessna 150 was perfectly vertical at impact. One would hope
the lesson dost not have to be repeated so regularly.
ta ta
W
do not archive
Message 17
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Can you clarify this? They were doing a banner tow pickup with a Cessna
150? I have done banner tows with a 170 (180 H.P.). You come across the
rope line dragging a grapple hook and then point your airplane up until the
parachute you are pulling comes taught or you run out of airspeed. It all
happens very fast. A 150 though seems a bit under powered for this.
Just curious however
Tim
Do Not Archive
>>And sadly, we just had the exact same accident occur in front of my hangar
>>row on a banner tow pickup two weeks ago. Crushed a bright young woman in
>>an instant as the Cessna 150 was perfectly vertical at impact.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Basicwiring HELP |
I think the diagram is incorrect. The bottom row of lamps needs to have
their lower terminals connected to +12V, not ground. Clever idea though.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Basicwiring HELP
> Dana,
>
> Not sure if this will help or not, but attached is a way to dim panel
> lights
> with only a DPDT switch. No resistors or dimmer circuitry is necessary.
>
> You need to group the loads so that the total current draw of the top half
> and bottom half are the same, or one group will be dimmer than the other
> when
> the switch is in the dim position (or LO).
>
> If you don't have a center off switch, you could put another switch in the
> line to plus 12 volts.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10:24 AM
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Basicwiring HELP |
Curt, the drawing is correct. On bright the center
wire is +12V, the other side is ground. One side
directly, and the other through the switch.
Dave
29 Years Journeyman Wireman
--- Curt Reimer <cgreimer@mts.net> wrote:
> <cgreimer@mts.net>
>
> I think the diagram is incorrect. The bottom row of
> lamps needs to have
> their lower terminals connected to +12V, not ground.
> Clever idea though.
>
> Curt
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 6:52 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Basicwiring HELP
>
>
> > Dana,
> >
> > Not sure if this will help or not, but attached is
> a way to dim panel
> > lights
> > with only a DPDT switch. No resistors or dimmer
> circuitry is necessary.
> >
> > You need to group the loads so that the total
> current draw of the top half
> > and bottom half are the same, or one group will be
> dimmer than the other
> > when
> > the switch is in the dim position (or LO).
> >
> > If you don't have a center off switch, you could
> put another switch in the
> > line to plus 12 volts.
> >
> > Dan Hopper
> > RV-7A
> >
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> 10:24 AM
>
>
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> Subscriptions page,
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>
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