Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:30 AM - 4th Annual Palmetto Wing Fly-In April 7 (Patty Hamilton)
2. 06:26 AM - Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
3. 06:38 AM - Re: Duckworks Light Dimensions (Bill VonDane)
4. 08:05 AM - Re: Anyone got a DB9 knock-out punch ? (Bret Smith)
5. 09:39 AM - Re: Duckworks Light Dimensions (Larygagnon@aol.com)
6. 01:18 PM - NAV audio hum - simple question (Mitchell Faatz)
7. 01:44 PM - Re: NAV audio hum - simple question (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 02:55 PM - Re: pilot's family awarded $10.5M (Bob Collins)
9. 05:03 PM - RV-8 Tail Kit for sale (Al Grajek)
10. 10:59 PM - All electric RV! (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 4th Annual Palmetto Wing Fly-In April 7 |
The Palmetto Wing of Vans Air Force
Invites any and all RV pilots/flyers/builders, EAA members
To the fourth annual
PALMETTO RV FLYIN COOKOUT
Saturday, April 7th
No Rain date since Sunday is Easter
(If it rains we will be eating a lot of hamburger)
Columbia Downtown Owens Field Airport
Columbia, SC
Palmetto Burgers and Carolina Dogs
Grills will be fired up at 11:00 AM
No Program
No Vendors
No Speeches
No Organization
No Charge
(Donations Accepted for
EAA Chapter 242)
Just good food, RVs, and friendly conversation.
www.airnav.com/airport/KCUB
Note right traffic for runway 13
Message 2
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| Subject: | Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve |
I've successfully used a Curtis fuel quick drain valve located inside
the cockpit near the panel. )Spruce P/N 05-00686). these can be easily
"Locked" into the open position so that the cabin atmosphere can be used
as alternate static pressure. I've used this technique for over 25
years......While cabin pressure isn't the same as a normal static port,
it's close enough for the very rare event that the exterior static ports
freeze over....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs (Sold)
RV-6A N926RV 704 Hrs
RV-7A N924RV (reserved)
For my "real" plane, I went to a salvage yard and got an old one
from one of
the "spam can wannabee a real" planes...
John
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Reynolds
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 5:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air
valve like the
"real" planes have?
Richard Reynolds
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Light Dimensions |
Hey Kyle... Are you talking about the rectangular lights that go in the
leading edge of the wings??
I am working on an HID replacement for those lights... Drop me a
line...
-Bill VonDane
www.creativair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 7:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks Light Dimensions
I'm looking for a couple of dimensions from the "standard" duckworks
landing light kit, and hope someone can help me out.
First, what is the overall width of the cutout in the leading edge?
Second, what is the overall height of the cutout in the leading edge?
(Note, I need the height of the opening in a wing, not the template
dimension).
Third, I need the height of the aluminum backing plate for the light.
You ask why? I'm scouring the web for a cheap HID upgrade that'll fit
without too much work.
Thanks in advance...
Kyle Boatright
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Anyone got a DB9 knock-out punch ? |
Gerry, this is where you get creative and rig a vacuum hose right up to
where you are cutting...
Bret Smith
RV-9A "Wings"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerry Filby
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone got a DB9 knock-out punch ?
Couldn't agree more - but that's the going rate pretty much everywhere
I've looked. The problem is my panel is already installed and I just
don't want metal shavings flying around my instruments.
g
-----Original Message-----
From: Bret Smith [mailto:smithhb@tds.net]
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 06:50 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Anyone got a DB9 knock-out punch ?
That price is ridiculous. Use a drill, Dremel and needle file and
be done in 15 minutes. That is, unless you need 20+...
Bret Smith
RV-9A (91314)
Mineral Bluff, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 5:35 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Anyone got a DB9 knock-out punch ?
One of these ...
http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=6949
Expensive little bu****s ... anyone got one an prepared to
lease/loan ?
g
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Duckworks Light Dimensions |
I have a paper template on the wall from my 6 that I'm going to use on the 6A
I'm building. The hole is 4 3/4 wide by 5 1/4 inches tall. I measured 4
1/2 inches from the edge of the skin at the wing tip inboard to the outside
of the hole. It's 18 3/4 inches forward from the skin edge to the top of
the hole. The plate is whatever fits between the end rib and the first one
inboard. I have one angled down and one angled forward on my taildragger but
I'll put just one in the 6A aimed forward. Hope that helps.
Larry Gagnon
N6LG
Message 6
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| Subject: | NAV audio hum - simple question |
I've verified the hum coming out of the Garmin 430's NAV 1 audio hi pin
(on connector 4006), it has peaks at 500 and 1500 Hz, and is 60
millivolts when measured with an oscilloscope. Many people won't care
about this because they have audio panels and the NAV audio is typically
turned off all the time unless you're identifying a VOR. I care,
because I don't have an audio panel and my NAV 1 audio is always present
(mixed by Bob's Iso Amp with COM audio, marker beacon, and traffic
warnings). I can knock down the level of the hum a little bit with a
T-Pass filter of sorts: two 500 ohm resisters with a 100 pF cap going to
ground in the middle. I have hi-buck Bose-X noise canceling headphones
and stereo music, and here is the million dollar question:
Will a 60 millivolt hum into an intercom be audible when the engine is
running?
If so, my choices are
1) return the unit to Garmin for testing/fixing (hopefully), might have
a bad capacitor on board or something, or it might be considered
"normal" by them, in which case I've just wasted two weeks.
2) put the nav 1 audio on an on/off switch on the instrument panel,
which I would like to avoid.
Thanks for any educated responses!
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Never Ending Finish Kit Auburn, CA
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: NAV audio hum - simple question |
Mitch,
I don't have a simple answer for you, but forget the T-Pass filter. The
reactance of 100 pF at 1500 Hz is about 1 megohm. In other words, you have
inserted 500 + 500 ohms in series and will just knock down all audio frequencies
the
same. On the other hand maybe this is what you need to do.
Sixty millivolts is 24 dB below a 1 volt signal. One volt at 500 ohms is 2
milliwatts. Sixty millivolts is 7.2 microwatts. It seems to me like you may
not have a problem. The question is, what is the audio level out of the 430
when you tune in a VOR station? Is the hum small compared to that level? Small
would be say 30 dB below that level (about 3 percent). So if your signal
level is more than 2 volts, then don't worry about it. If it causes too much
noise, you can use a resistive pad to lower the level from the 430 into the
intercom and still have enough VOR audio. I don't know the schematic of your
intercom, but maybe you could reduce the 430 audio level there.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Retired EE
In a message dated 2/13/2007 4:20:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mitch@skybound.com writes:
I've verified the hum coming out of the Garmin 430's NAV 1 audio hi pin
(on connector 4006), it has peaks at 500 and 1500 Hz, and is 60
millivolts when measured with an oscilloscope. Many people won't care
about this because they have audio panels and the NAV audio is typically
turned off all the time unless you're identifying a VOR. I care,
because I don't have an audio panel and my NAV 1 audio is always present
(mixed by Bob's Iso Amp with COM audio, marker beacon, and traffic
warnings). I can knock down the level of the hum a little bit with a
T-Pass filter of sorts: two 500 ohm resisters with a 100 pF cap going to
ground in the middle. I have hi-buck Bose-X noise canceling headphones
and stereo music, and here is the million dollar question:
Will a 60 millivolt hum into an intercom be audible when the engine is
running?
If so, my choices are
1) return the unit to Garmin for testing/fixing (hopefully), might have
a bad capacitor on board or something, or it might be considered
"normal" by them, in which case I've just wasted two weeks.
2) put the nav 1 audio on an on/off switch on the instrument panel,
which I would like to avoid.
Thanks for any educated responses!
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Never Ending Finish Kit Auburn, CA
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: pilot's family awarded $10.5M |
Interesting new stuff from Aircraft Maintenance Technology today. Turns out the
fire crews did testify.
http://www.amtonline.com/article/article.jsp?siteSection=1&id=3391 (http://www.amtonline.com/article/article.jsp?siteSection=1&id=3391)
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94828#94828
Message 9
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| Subject: | RV-8 Tail Kit for sale |
I have an RV8 tail kit for sale. Pre punched. Horizontal Stab. is completed.
Excellent workmanship. Includes electric trim kit. Stabilizer is crated and
ready to ship.
Jetjoc
859-361-9460
algrajek@msn.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | All electric RV! |
Gotta agree with Dan here. Last year about this time I was trying to
finalize my electrical system and had decided that I was going to add a
second alternator on the vacuum pump pad as backup. But while I was drawing
up everything on autocad I also did quite a bit of thinking. I have been a
reader of the Aeroelectric list for the last 4 years. Those that partake of
that list know that there has been much weeping and nashing of teeth in a
multi-month debate that has been raging about internally regulated versus
externally regulated alternators.
Several people who bought internally regulated alternators from auto parts
stores (and a few from Van's) have had problems with them and some multiple
problems. I'd heard a lot about the B&C externally regulated alternators
(modern day Nippon Denso modified for external regulation and balanced to
minimize vibration). I'd also heard that B&C had very few returns on these
units over a long period of time and people on the list who'd used them
confirmed that premise. So....much as I did NOT want to spend the money
(about three times the price of a NEW alternator from an auto parts store),
I returned Van's internally regulated unit and bought the B&C 60 amp unit
and regulator.
I originally left off the backup alternator from my CAD drawings thinking
that I'd add it later and install it after the airplane flies (I've been
working on this RV-6 for 10 years and want to get it in the air). But after
all the hallaballoo on the aeroelectric list and the talk of how reliable
the B&C alternators are, I gave it some more thought and now keep asking
myself if I need to do the aux alternator at all. Although I plan on doing
instrument flying (when necessary) I don't expect it to be an "all-the-time"
thing. This airplane is my traveling machine and stress reliever not an air
taxi and if the weather is really bad I plan on staying on the ground. I
decided that since, the B&C alternator is so reliable, I have a magneto on
one side, a backup battery inside my Dynon EFIS and my mission is not IFR
all the time....there is no need to install the aux alternator right now (or
maybe ever).
Everything is new right now, including the alternator and I don't want to
spend the time and effort to install and wire an aux alternator into my
system right now. And, I'd rather not spend another $1000 for the unit and
its regulator since I've gone way over budget on this airplane already. Just
a few thoughts for you to ponder. No I don't work for B&C and, I don't like
the price on these alternators but, if it turns out to be as reliable as
they say, it will have been worth it (and I shouldn't need to worry about a
back up for a long time).
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Registering and paying those use taxes, oh boy!
-----------------Original message-----------------------------
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: All Electric RV ?
>
>None of the above (or below as the case may be). How much truly "in the
>solid soup" IFR flying do you really plan to do? How much soup time
>have you logged in the past 1-2 years? How many of those flights was a
>MUST scenario and not a MIGHT scenario (where you HAD to be somewhere).
>Be honest.
>
>Unless your engine depends on electrons flowing for the fan to keep
>turning (i.e. dual electronic ignition without backup such as LASAR or
>P-Mag), I'm a big proponent of KISS. And that means one battery, one
>HIGH QUALITY alternator, done deal.
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