Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:48 PM - How Did You...? (John Fasching)
2. 02:58 PM - Re: How Did You...? (Kyle Boatright)
3. 04:10 PM - low oil temps (Bobby Hester)
4. 06:03 PM - FAA funding (Sherman Butler)
5. 08:23 PM - Re: low oil temps (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
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Re: replacement fuel tanks from Evan Johnson
After 12-years or so and finally finding loose slosh in my tanks I
decided to have Johnson make me two of them rather than go through that
mess again.
Here's my question: I can slip on the replacement tanks (they have 1/4"
oversized skins) and accurately determine where the underlying nutplates
are located and drill a pilot hole.
Then removing the tanks I can dimple the aft row of holes but the
forward ones are what right now have me puzzled. The forward row of
holes need to be machine countersunk, not dimpled. I can see that the
cutter head's pilot "shaft" in my microstop countersink tool will
'bottom out' in the nutplate before the cutter has finished the proper
cut, or even got a good start.
How did you folks get around this? I wondered if using the shop grinder
to 'shorten' the pilot shaft a bit might work...other than that nothing
has yet occured to me. (Fortunately it will be some time before I get
the tanks so I have lots of time to figure this out.) I know others
have faced this, and rather than reinventing the wheel so to speak I am
asking for guidance. Thanks for any help.
John
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: How Did You...? |
A couple of thoughts:
1) Have a buddy with a lathe turn down the pilot on the countersink to
fit the inside diameter of the nutplates. The problem in this scenario
is that you still need to drill the holes for the screws, and the
nutplates will be in your way during that step too.
2) I really think you'll want to mark the tank on the airframe, but
drill the holes and countersink 'em off the airplane. Going this route,
after you marked the holes, you could attach the tank to a spacer shaped
like the spar, then drill through the tank skin into the simulated spar.
At that point, the hole in the false spar would serve as the guide for
your piloted countersink.
I'm sure you're putting lots of thought into this. Once you decide how
to approach the problem, it is probably worth talking it over with
another experienced builder or a machinist before you start cutting
aluminum.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: John Fasching
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 4:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: How Did You...?
Re: replacement fuel tanks from Evan Johnson
After 12-years or so and finally finding loose slosh in my tanks I
decided to have Johnson make me two of them rather than go through that
mess again.
Here's my question: I can slip on the replacement tanks (they have
1/4" oversized skins) and accurately determine where the underlying
nutplates are located and drill a pilot hole.
Then removing the tanks I can dimple the aft row of holes but the
forward ones are what right now have me puzzled. The forward row of
holes need to be machine countersunk, not dimpled. I can see that the
cutter head's pilot "shaft" in my microstop countersink tool will
'bottom out' in the nutplate before the cutter has finished the proper
cut, or even got a good start.
How did you folks get around this? I wondered if using the shop
grinder to 'shorten' the pilot shaft a bit might work...other than that
nothing has yet occured to me. (Fortunately it will be some time before
I get the tanks so I have lots of time to figure this out.) I know
others have faced this, and rather than reinventing the wheel so to
speak I am asking for guidance. Thanks for any help.
John
Message 3
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My oil temps are running low and I am putting alum. tape on the cooler
to get them up. I'm thinking about ordering the oil cooler vent from
Vans. What you you guys doing?
--
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/FinishingUpPg3.htm
Message 4
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Listers,
I urge everyone to visit with your representatives when they have public meetings.
I went to Lenator Carig's meeting today. After the questions about Iraq,
Medicare the debt, etc. He seemed relived to talk about a soft-ball comment
like the FAA out of control. I said the control tower at IF is there for the
airlines and I am required to "use " it, and pay my share with fuel tax. It
was easy, and now his agreement is recorded on access TV.
Do Not Archive
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
The fish are biting.
Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: low oil temps |
Over the years there has been much discussion here regarding oil cooler
blocking to elevate oil temps in cold climes. It seems that most attemps to block
off a baffle-mounted cooler at the rear of the cooler exhibited marginal
improvements at best, and those that covered the front of the cooler much more
effective. I suspect that the reason is that if the rear of the cooler is
blocked, there is still enough cold air swirling around at the front of the cooler
to
pretty effectively cool it. As some evidence (FWIW!) my firewall-mounted
cooler has a butterfly valve upstream from the cooler operated by a cable that
allows me to regulate airflow through the cooler and allows me to accurately
"set" whatever oil temp I desire, regardless of OAT. See:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5001
>From the info on Vans web catalog website, it appears this shutter would
block quite a bit of airflow even when open, but I have no evidence of this. I'm
curious if it works well fully open in hot climates. It DOES say it mounts
between the baffle and cooler, so it may prove effective. I'd suspect that
before it was offered by Vans is had been pretty well qualified. See:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1172376538-200-201&brows
e=engines&product=oil_shutter
I'd suggest some aluminum duct tape or cover plate taped in place over most
if not all of the cooler front face as an experiment- easy to do and might be
perfectly serviceable prior to onset of Kentucy summer- fer shure much less
co$t & hassle...
Mark
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