Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:34 AM - Re: Alternator field current? ()
2. 03:09 AM - Re: Re: Alternator field current? (Jim Sears)
3. 06:06 AM - Headset rant! (James H Nelson)
4. 06:21 AM - Re: Re: Alternator field current? (Tim Bryan)
5. 06:29 AM - In Ear headsets (Paul Besing)
6. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: Alternator field current? (Jim Sears)
7. 08:11 AM - Re: Headset rant! (Glaeser, Dennis A)
8. 10:08 AM - Flight Manual (Jack Blomgren)
9. 12:03 PM - Check List RV9A (Chuck Weyant)
10. 12:45 PM - Re: Check List RV9A (T.C. Chang)
11. 04:18 PM - Looking for Charlie Kuss (Al Grajek)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
>Subject: RV-List: Alternator field current?
>
>I may be having a brain lockup, but trying to determine field current
>for the old 14184 type Van's alternator. Z-11 looks like this circuit has
>double protection with the fuselink and 5a fuse on the same circuit.
5 Amps is plenty. Remember you are protecting the wire NOT the
regulator or alternator.
To answer your question I would guess the draw at max output
to be about 3 amps, 3.5 amps.
The Z-11 dwg? In general you have two protections in the charge
system. One from the battery or battery bus (via the starter contactor
typical of Bobs scheme) to the output of the alternator (B-lead). This
fuse, cuircuit breaker or fusible link must be at least 35 amps to
handle the output but still protect the wire. I assume the field wire is
at least 6 awg. The protection is near the battery or where the B-lead
attaches to the pos circuit.
The second protection is the HOT wire (+A terminal) to the voltage
regulator (VR). This fuse or CB is about 5 amps, near the pos source.
You should NOT see two protections in series on one wire.
George
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
> 5 Amps is plenty. Remember you are protecting
> the wire NOT the regulator or alternator.
I agree with George on this. The fuse or breaker is only to protect the
wire.
>> In general you have two protections in the charge system. One from the
>> battery or battery bus (via the starter contactor
typical of Bobs scheme) to the output of the alternator (B-lead). This fuse,
cuircuit breaker or fusible link must be at least 35 amps to handle the
output but still protect the wire. I assume the field wire is at least 6
awg. The protection is near the battery or where the B-lead attaches to the
pos circuit.<<
Again, I agree with George.
> The second protection is the HOT wire (+A terminal) to the voltage >
> regulator (VR). This fuse or CB is about 5 amps, near the pos source.
And, this is what I'm using in my RV with no problems. I'm using a 35amp
alternator, as well.
> You should NOT see two protections in series on one wire.
Let me add a small addition, here. In addition to the 5amp fuse or breaker,
let me suggest an over voltage protection device, if you don't have one
built into your system at the voltage regulator. This device checks the
voltage to see if the alternator is putting out more voltage than it should.
The limit is set at about 16V on the one I have. If the volatage surpasses
the limit, the device triggers a direct short in the field wire that causes
the fuse or breaker to fail. That protects the avionics, not the wire,
against a runaway alternator if the voltage regulator fails. It's not
needed when the regulator is functioning well; but, it can save you some
money if the regulator fails.
As for the fuse or breaker, let me suggest the breaker. I used a fuse in
mine and ran into trouble with that idea when I was sorting out a problem in
the charging system. I went through several fuses before all was said and
done. The OV protection kept blowing the fuses, even when the new regulator
was functioning well. I figured out it was the OV protection device that
was failing in error. I sent it back for repairs. Shortly, I'll be putting
the OV device back into the system and will do away with the fuse in favor
of a new 5 amp breaker.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (On hold due to laziness)
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 3
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Dennis.
What type of ear plug are you using? Brand ect-- I'm
considering getting one of those types of head sets. My next purchase of
head sets will be one like that. I don't want to be "ripped" off with
replacement tips.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A (last electrical check before last skin on fuselage)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
I have had this happen in my 170. The regulator went gunnysack and the OV
protection kicked in. But apparently it was of a type the smoked itself
inside to break the circuit and the alternator quit working. The problem
was when the OV blew it made smoke in the cockpit. Since I didn't know what
was going on at the time I shut down all electrical and made a steep spiral
to a landing on an extreme high crosswind dirt landing strip just north of
Lancaster, CA. I had to keep the plane running on the middle of the runway
while my wife got out and held the tail. Then I could shut down and get off
the runway. The good side was all my avionics were in good shape.
Tim
> > You should NOT see two protections in series on one wire.
>
> Let me add a small addition, here. In addition to the 5amp fuse or
> breaker,
> let me suggest an over voltage protection device, if you don't have one
> built into your system at the voltage regulator. This device checks the
> voltage to see if the alternator is putting out more voltage than it
> should.
> The limit is set at about 16V on the one I have. If the volatage
> surpasses
> the limit, the device triggers a direct short in the field wire that
> causes
> the fuse or breaker to fail. That protects the avionics, not the wire,
> against a runaway alternator if the voltage regulator fails. It's not
> needed when the regulator is functioning well; but, it can save you some
> money if the regulator fails.
>
> As for the fuse or breaker, let me suggest the breaker. I used a fuse in
> mine and ran into trouble with that idea when I was sorting out a problem
> in
> the charging system. I went through several fuses before all was said and
> done. The OV protection kept blowing the fuses, even when the new
> regulator
> was functioning well. I figured out it was the OV protection device that
> was failing in error. I sent it back for repairs. Shortly, I'll be
> putting
> the OV device back into the system and will do away with the fuse in favor
> of a new 5 amp breaker.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (On hold due to laziness)
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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We use earplugs like these in the helos that I fly. They aren't ANR, but they
feed the audio directly into your ear. They are called CEP's (Communication Ear
Plug). Since these are made for function, and not comfort, they probably aren't
the same as the civilian models. They take some getting used to, that's
for sure. At first, when I put them in my ears, and then my helmet on (which
has standard headset type ear cups) I was thinking there was no way I would fly
with them. Now, I feel naked without them, so I think you could get used to
them.
The foam portion come in packs of ten that we use, with the threaded plastic
piece already inside. I go through a set of these about once every 2 months or
so, because they do get used alot.
I think the technology for an "in ear" type headset will definately make the
Bose, DC, etc, etc, a dying breed eventually, like the DVD did to VHS, etc. For
now, though, I do forget that I am wearing the Bose...my old DC's however,
gave me a headache after 1 hour. Great headsets for durability, reliability,
etc, but the comfort factor was non existant.
do not archive
Paul Besing
Brian Meyette <brianpublic2@starband.net> wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:*
{behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
No I have not. However, I have a David Clarke set, with every available
comfort option, and they bother me after less than an hour. Ive worn these
Clarity Aloft for a couple hours, with no discernable discomfort at all.
I keep the set, and packs of spare plugs, in the canvas case that came with the
set
As mfg suggests, I change them when they look grungy and I feel like it. Its
more of a personal taste thing as to when you no longer feel like putting them
in your ears. I dont spend more than a few dollars a year on plugs, though
I have not tried to find them locally I doubt theyd be available, as you need
the plastic screw-in insert.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 4:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bose X, QC2, and Headset rant!
have you taken any 3 + 3 hour trips in one day (ie, long cross country for 6
hours or more)?
How do you keep the plugs sanitary and how often do you change plugs and can
you find them cheaply locally?
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2@starband.net>
You might want to consider in-the-ear ones like Clarity Aloft ones. I put them
in & cant even feel that I have anything on
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob J.
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bose X, QC2, and Headset rant!
Exactly. I've borrowed the Bose X's and gone on a trip with them, I didn't like
them. The earcups are small and put pressure on your ears, and there is no
passive attenuation. With the ANR conversions I have about $300 in each of
my Peltor's. I'd love to try the newer in-the-ear headsets, but they are pricey
too.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const
do not archive
On 3/6/07, Terry Watson <terry@tcwatson.com > wrote:
And I always thought spending a thousand dollars for a headset marginally
better than one for half the price was for bragging rights! To each his own.
Terry
I'm in the military, and certainly do not make the kind of money that many people
who build airplanes make, yet for ME, $1,000 is a drop in the bucket in the
grand scheme of things. Others want a neat gadget in the panel that does nothing
for them other than bragging rights, and something cool to look at (when
in actuality is not necessary) yet the'll have a cheap pair of Lightspeed headsets
with tape on them because they break so often. (Yes, I've seen this).
Paul Besing
do not archive
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
>> I have had this happen in my 170. The regulator went gunnysack and the
>> OV protection kicked in. But apparently it was of a type the smoked
>> itself inside to break the circuit and the alternator quit working. The
>> problem was when the OV blew it made smoke in the cockpit.<<
Yep, this is how I learned about the device in my Cheetah. It, too, failed
and had to be replaced. Fortunately, I was able to replace the regulator
with one that had OV protection built in. Since it was a commercially built
aircraft, and one that required a more expensive FAA approved regulator, I
opted to spend the few extra dollars to keep from having to by a regulator
and OV protection seperately. I
do have them seperate in the RV because I can use a $12 regulator in it. If
I chose, I can even roll my own OV protection device for a few dollars.
Jim in KY
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Headset rant! |
I didn't have that info handy when I made my previous post (and knew I
should have waited :-)
Here are the ear plugs I'm using:
http://earplugstore.stores.yahoo.net/holemaxuffop.html
I had originally gotten a pair of these at a local store, and loved
them, but then I couldn't find them again. So I searched online and
found them. I bought a box of 200, figuring that should last me a
while...
The headset I modified is a Plantronics MS50/T30-2 Aviation Headset.
You can usually find them on Ebay for around $50 (do a search for Item
number: 290090838388).
I like the Clarity Aloft headsets a lot (my son and his wife have them),
but for now my cheap alternative works fine.
Dennis
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
Dennis.
What type of ear plug are you using? Brand ect-- I'm
considering getting one of those types of head sets. My next purchase
of
head sets will be one like that. I don't want to be "ripped" off with
replacement tips.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A (last electrical check before last skin on fuselage)
Message 8
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Wish to obtain a Flight Manual useful for 180 hp injected RV-8 w/ fixed
pitch (85") Sensenich metal prop.
Thanks in advance for your help and/or suggestions.
Jack N8VZ taxiing tests, systems shakedown, corrections, etc,
etc.
_________________________________________________________________
Dont miss your chance to WIN 10 hours of private jet travel from Microsoft
Message 9
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I've looked high and low on the Matronics Index and can't find anyone with a
downloadable checklist. Anyone got a downloadable copy?
Chuck
Message 10
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I will mail you a copy in Word format. I also have GRT Horizon I electronic
check list and CV Checklists (Control Vision) on PDA.
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/
tc1234c@roadrunner.com
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, Dual Mag, Sensenich FP, all
electric, GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 125 Hobbs 3/8/2007
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Check List RV9A
I've looked high and low on the Matronics Index and can't find anyone with a
downloadable checklist. Anyone got a downloadable copy?
Chuck
Message 11
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| Subject: | Looking for Charlie Kuss |
Charlie:
I am going to be in Boca next Monday thru Friday.
I lost your number. Shoot me an email, and maybe we can get together some
time next week.
Al Grajek
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