Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:31 AM - Re: Oil Door Latch (Bill Settle)
2. 04:29 AM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (Sam Buchanan)
3. 05:46 AM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (PJ Seipel)
4. 06:31 AM - Re: Oil Door Latch (Emrath)
5. 07:23 AM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (gordon or marge)
6. 08:01 AM - non impulse coupling mag drive gear needed for elec ignition (Shemp)
7. 08:59 AM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (David Leonard)
8. 01:18 PM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (ronlee@pcisys.net)
9. 03:52 PM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (Richard Seiders)
10. 04:00 PM - Bleeding Brakes (Andy Gold)
11. 05:09 PM - Re: Bleeding Brakes (Ralph E. Capen)
12. 05:27 PM - Re: Bleeding Brakes (Bobby Hester)
13. 05:36 PM - non impulse coupling mag drive gear needed for elec ignition (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
14. 08:07 PM - RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! (Michael D. Cencula)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Door Latch |
I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for or not...
KM610-64
Try this link to Skybolt. It's at the bottom of page 5...
http://skybolt.com/SC180%20&%20185PL%20WEB.pdf
Aircraft Spruce also offers it. You can also go to matronics search archives and
type in "KM610-64"
Bill Settle
RV-8 Wings
>
> From: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
> Date: 2007/03/17 Sat AM 12:43:10 EST
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Oil Door Latch
>
> Can anybody tell me where to get the round push button oil door latch I see on
a lot of RV's. I think it is made by camloc, but I can't find it anywhere.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul Rice
> RV8 almost ready to fly
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
ronlee@pcisys.net wrote:
>
> Go hide your checkbook and credit card(s). Kevin was right on. Do you
> want to do all the mods needed to make this work in a proven design like
> RV plus Lycoming type engine?
Good advice.
> Fuel availability? How many airports have diesel? How will you refuel
> going cross-country?
No problem here. The aviation diesels burn Jet-A which is one of the
main appeals of a diesel.
Sam Buchanan
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
I followed Deltahawk for a long time, with the thought that I wanted to
put their 200HP inverted engine in my RV-10. After building for 4
years, during which Deltahawk continued to say there were "just about to
start delivering engines", I ordered a lycoming to avoid bringing my
project to a halt. I still watch their progress on their webpage.
I think that eventually they'll deliver engines, and that they'll be
good engines. They've made a lot of progress in the time I've been
watching them. However, this is going to be the big challenge for you:
Deltahawk is only interested in providing engines. If you buy an engine
from them, either someone else has to build the firewall forward for
you, or you've got to do it yourself. Don't underestimate the amount of
engineering that will go into the engine mount, oil system, cooling
system, etc.
The fact that they want a deposit for something they'll deliver in 2008
means that they're either assembling the engines extremely slow, or
they're going to use your money help to pay for the engines they
promised in 2007. As we've seen with Direct-2-Avionics, that puts your
deposit at serious risk if they run out of capital. My response would
be different if they were delivering engines like hotcakes; I paid
Barrett half the cost of my lycoming several months ago, but I'm
comfortable that he's going to send me an engine when he says he is.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Ralph Howey wrote:
> I'm still working on the empennage of my 8 quick-build kit and
> am spending way too much time daydreaming, panel planning and lurking
> on the web. I know I should be out in the shop squeezing rivets and
> mangling lovely pieces of .020 but I have an important question for
> group I hope you can help me with.
>
> Two days ago Dennis Webb from DeltsHawk Engines Inc
> (www.deltahawkengines.com <http://www.deltahawkengines.com>) e-mailed
> me to offer a position in their projected delivery for 2008 and
> requesting a $5000 deposit. This will establish me in the line-up and
> I should receive my engine some time in 08,,,, hopefully I'll have
> completed the empennage by then and maybe even closed up the
> wings..hope hope...Actually the timing should work quite well for me
> given my pace
>
> I have read as much about Deltahawk and their DH180A4 as I can find on
> the web and Kitplanes author Tim Kern ran a very complimentary article
> in the December 2006 issue. The engine appeals to me for any number of
> reasons, direct drive purpose-built aviation engine, fuel
> availability, low fuel burn, durability, you can read all the hype on
> their web site.
>
> BUT......I need some advise and a devil's advocate or two
>
> (1) what about firewall forward installation...engine mounts..cooling
> rads..cowl design..exhaust and muffler..fuel pumps, filters and return
> lines, and all those things I haven't even thought of
>
> (2) company viability and the chance of me kissing my 5grand goodbye
>
> If anybody has any thoughts on this we can start a string or you can
> e-mail me directly with your comments good or bad.....the more input
> the better.
> My thoughts are I'll fly to Chicago and drive up to Racine to do the
> touchy-feely before I write the cheque ( check ), I retired from an
> airline job 1 Jan so do have some time available and the ticket won't
> cost much..
>
> Thanks very much...
>
> Ralph Howey
> Delta B.C.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Door Latch |
Maybe what you are looking for is a Hartwell latch, do a search on this list
and you should get some hit.
Marty
Message 5
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| Subject: | DeltaHawk Engine |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Howey
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 7:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: DeltaHawk Engine
Two days ago Dennis Webb from DeltsHawk Engines Inc
(www.deltahawkengines.com) e-mailed me to offer a position in their
projected delivery for 2008 and requesting a $5000 deposit. This will
establish me in the line-up and I should receive my engine some time in
08,,,, hopefully I'll have completed the empennage by then and maybe
even
closed up the wings..hope hope...Actually the timing should work quite
well
for me given my pace
BUT......I need some advise and a devil's advocate or two
(1) what about firewall forward installation...engine mounts..cooling
rads..cowl design..exhaust and muffler..fuel pumps, filters and return
lines, and all those things I haven't even thought of
(2) company viability and the chance of me kissing my 5grand goodbye
Thanks very much...
Ralph Howey
Delta B.C.
Ralph: This is at least the second time around on the request for
funds.
In Dec -03 I signed a delivery position agreement with the stipulation
for
a $5K deposit
when requested. The request came some time later but they admitted to a
problem with vibration that threatened the use of a Hartzell prop. They
could not say
when the matter would be resolved. I declined to send the deposit and
have
had no communication with them since. I think they are honest people.
I do
not know
how they are financed, but they are still in there swinging when many
others
would have disappeared. Their original intent was to contract with
others
to do FWF
development. I don't know if that has been done. I sketched up a
layout
for the RV-8 that I thought might be workable but the work involve to
reduce
the layout
to working drawings and fabrication was beyond me, especially from the
time
standpoint. I have since taken delivery on a Lyc IO 390.
Honest or not, if they get into financial trouble, that trouble will be
visited upon you. Good luck.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 6
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| Subject: | non impulse coupling mag drive gear needed for elec ignition |
Im finally getting around to installing my Light Speed Elec ignition and
just discovered I need a drive gear from a non impulse coupling
magneto. Both of my mags have impulse couplers. I will have an extra
mag(not sure how old but working fine), with impulse coupler of course,
and relatively new wiring harness(300 hrs) to trade. Anyone??
Jeff Shemp Dowling
N915JD
300 +
Chicago
RV-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
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> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
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> Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
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> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-03-15&Archive=RV
>
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> ===============================================
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> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 03/15/07: 4
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 09:57 AM - Painting Questions and Advice (Daniel Snow)
> 2. 01:23 PM - TRADE: RV 6/8 Emp Construction video for RV 9 Video (Brandon
Rigio)
> 3. 01:34 PM - Re: Painting Questions and Advice (RAS)
> 4. 02:26 PM - Re: TRADE: RV 6/8 Emp Construction video for RV 9 Video (Andy
Gold)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:57:48 AM PST US
> From: "Daniel Snow" <dsnow@coosahs.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Painting Questions and Advice
>
>
> The spec sheet says it can be taped in about 8 hours. I let mine cure
> overnight and still got tape trails. The next time I let it cure for about
> 24 hours and that worked much better. My problem is probably that I'm
> putting on too much paint. I'm about to paint now and will try using more
> reducer to reduce paint buildup and to get more flow out.
>
>
>
>> Time: 04:30:16 PM PST US
>> From: "n801bh@netzero.com" <n801bh@netzero.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Questions and Advice
>>
>> As alot of us that have painted our kit planes know by now,
>> there is a VERY fine line between getting a slick finish with very li
>> ttle orange peel and creating that dreaded ,,, RUN .. I am curious thoug
>> h, with the product your are spraying,, How long do you wait for the pai
>> nt to cure till you tape off for stripes???
>>
>> Thanks in advance..
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:23:35 PM PST US
> Subject: RV-List: TRADE: RV 6/8 Emp Construction video for RV 9 Video
> From: "Brandon Rigio" <brandon.rigio@kodak.com>
>
>
> I have the Orndorff RV-6/8 Empennage videos and I would like to make a
> straight trade with anyone who has the RV-9 video. Reply off list if
> you're interested.
>
> Thanks,
> Brandon.
>
> B_rigio@hotmail.com
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:34:34 PM PST US
> From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting Questions and Advice
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> two things are of major influence when you paint:
>
> 1: temperature, most two pack paints require at least 15 centigrade
> preferable a bit higher around 18- 20 C mark. IF you CANNOT maintain this
> temperature for at least 6 hours, don't even attempt any paint spraying.
>
> 2: humidity,humidy between 40 - 70 % is fairly ideal. It can be elevated by
> wetting the floor, this is perfect when you're trying to accelerate the
> curing of polyurethane. Around 27C with a bucket of water over the floor
> does miracles on the cure time with Polyurethane. Excessive high temps won't
> hasten your case with poly.
>
> The 2 points above are required because of chemical reaction to be started
> and maintained between base and hardener. Yes, I know people too who claim
> to got away with far less, but it's like a poorly built aircraft, it flies
> and that's that.
>
> Technique and practise is what will make your paintjob look well. It can't
> be stressed enough 2 thin coats are better than one heavy one, regardless of
> what you spray.
> When I paint RV's I give it a single crosscoat where I just go a bit heavier
> than dusting the surface. When it's complete I go out of the booth and have
> a coffee and a snack, after half an hour I suit up again and give it a wet
> crosscoat. Look into the light and spray along with the mirror, in other
> words when you do your wet crosscoat which is about twice as haevy as your
> first coat, you'll notice that you get a good glossy finish which mirrors.
> When you make your passes keep spraying in a 50% overlap with the previous
> track and bring the mirror towards you without any hurry and without any
> interuptions. This will avoid any dry spots you 'll have to cut and polish
> afterwards.
>
> As you'll appreciate it's not that easy to teach someone to spray over the
> internet, so I only can give you some of the basic tips, if you practise a
> bit, even on a bit of masking paper, you'll swiftly get the hang of it. The
> most difficult thing in the begining will be the set up of your gun. Again
> use the masking paper and set up the ratio between paint and air. Too much
> paint at a given amount of air WILL produce orangepeel, no matter what type
> of paint you spray.
> Finally, the distance between the tip of your gun and your object is about
> the spread of your hand, spread hand as far as it goes, the distance between
> little finger and thumb is about 8" with most adults a faiurly good distance
> to start of with.
>
> As goes for runs and sags, I've been painting airliners for years both in
> the factory and out in the big maintenace facilities for years and light
> aircraft in the more recent years, they still occasionally happen. As long
> as you keep moving and don't keep hitting the same spot over and over you'll
> have a fair chance avoiding them.
> To aid your concentration switching of the cellphone is certainly a help!
>
> Good luck to all of you trying it for the first time and keep the paint to a
> minimum, it's an aircarft and not classic Rolls Royce motorcar needing 32
> coats of paint.
>
> Marcel
> RV7 flying
> RV10 allmost
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:26:38 PM PST US
> From: "Andy Gold" <andygold@rkymtnhi.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: TRADE: RV 6/8 Emp Construction video for RV 9 Video
>
>
> Brandon,
>
> We are discontinueing the Orndorf video series but still have a couple of
> RV-9 empennage VHS videos on the shelf. If you can't find one as a trade,
> you can have one of these for $20.
>
> Call Builder's Bookstore to order 970 887-2207.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> www.buildersbooks.com
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
> - Original Message -----
> From: "Brandon Rigio" <brandon.rigio@kodak.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 2:25 PM
> Subject: RV-List: TRADE: RV 6/8 Emp Construction video for RV 9 Video
>
>
>
>> I have the Orndorff RV-6/8 Empennage videos and I would like to make a
>> straight trade with anyone who has the RV-9 video. Reply off list if
>> you're interested.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Brandon.
>>
>> B_rigio@hotmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
Hi Ralph,
You have read some good advise so far an I agree with most of it. A company
that has been 1 year away from delivering engines for the last 5 years and
is still not delivering engines does not deserve $5000 of your hard earned
money. A good faith deposit is one thing, but you (as a builder) are not in
the business of providing investment capitol. DH should take smaller
deposits and use them to convince the bank that their engines will sell.
That being said, I sure hope they make it. Being a fan of alternate engine
choices I followed DH for a couple of years but wanted to get started
long before they were ready. I looked at their site last night for the
first time in years and am very impressed. The engineering and flight data
is new and particularly impressive. If I had to guess, $5000 put down now
would eventually see an engine at your door.... but maybe not in 2008.
Anyway, I wanted to address your concerns about FF fabrication, having done
it for my rotary RV-6. That stuff is not harder than the other systems you
develop in building an RV. I spent about 2-3 months of my build time
(couple half-day/week type thing) on the engine mount, and 2 more months on
cooler placement and I keep changing the cowl. The nice thing for you with
the DH is that the intake and exhaust manifolds are already done, same with
the fuel, oil, injector, and electrical systems around the engine. Those
were some of the hardest parts of my installation. Of course, I am still
tinkering and making changes while the lyc guys are buzzing my house... but
by 'next year' I should have it all worked out ;-)
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
On 3/16/07, Ralph Howey <rdhowey@telus.net> wrote:
>
> I'm still working on the empennage of my 8 quick-build kit and
> am spending way too much time daydreaming, panel planning and lurking on the
> web. I know I should be out in the shop squeezing rivets and mangling lovely
> pieces of .020 but I have an important question for group I hope you can
> help me with.
>
> Two days ago Dennis Webb from DeltsHawk Engines Inc (
> www.deltahawkengines.com) e-mailed me to offer a position in their
> projected delivery for 2008 and requesting a $5000 deposit. This will
> establish me in the line-up and I should receive my engine some time in
> 08,,,, hopefully I'll have completed the empennage by then and maybe even
> closed up the wings..hope hope...Actually the timing should work quite well
> for me given my pace
>
> I have read as much about Deltahawk and their DH180A4 as I can find on the
> web and Kitplanes author Tim Kern ran a very complimentary article in the
> December 2006 issue. The engine appeals to me for any number of reasons,
> direct drive purpose-built aviation engine, fuel availability, low fuel
> burn, durability, you can read all the hype on their web site.
>
> BUT......I need some advise and a devil's advocate or two
>
> (1) what about firewall forward installation...engine mounts..cooling
> rads..cowl design..exhaust and muffler..fuel pumps, filters and return
> lines, and all those things I haven't even thought of
>
> (2) company viability and the chance of me kissing my 5grand goodbye
>
> If anybody has any thoughts on this we can start a string or you can
> e-mail me directly with your comments good or bad.....the more input the
> better.
> My thoughts are I'll fly to Chicago and drive up to Racine to do the
> touchy-feely before I write the cheque ( check ), I retired from an airline
> job 1 Jan so do have some time available and the ticket won't cost much..
>
> Thanks very much...
>
> Ralph Howey
> Delta B.C.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
> > Fuel availability? How many airports have diesel? How will you
refuel
> > going cross-country?
>
> No problem here. The aviation diesels burn Jet-A which is one of the
> main appeals of a diesel.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
Thanks Sam. I did not know that. Of course there is no Jet A at my
airport.
Ron Lee
Do not
archive
---------------------------------------------
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
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Message 10
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|
Where can I find step by step instructions on how to bleed the brakes.
When I built the plane 10 years ago I had help with this from an A&P friend
and most of what I remember was that it was a big mess. I found a leaky
wheel cylinder today which means a new set of O-rings and an afternoon of
fun. Having a little less fun than the first time would be a good thing.
Then someone said I'll have to open up the master cylinders while I'm doing
this, but I don't recall that. I think I remember bleeding straight up into
the reservoir.
Can anyone help me refresh my memory?
Thanks,
Andy
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
Matco's website has two sets of instructions...pressure and suction.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Gold" <andygold@rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 6:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bleeding Brakes
>
> Where can I find step by step instructions on how to bleed the brakes.
>
> When I built the plane 10 years ago I had help with this from an A&P
> friend and most of what I remember was that it was a big mess. I found a
> leaky wheel cylinder today which means a new set of O-rings and an
> afternoon of fun. Having a little less fun than the first time would be a
> good thing.
>
> Then someone said I'll have to open up the master cylinders while I'm
> doing this, but I don't recall that. I think I remember bleeding straight
> up into the reservoir.
>
> Can anyone help me refresh my memory?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
Here is how I did it:
http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/FinishingUp.htm
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Andy Gold wrote:
>
> Where can I find step by step instructions on how to bleed the brakes.
>
> When I built the plane 10 years ago I had help with this from an A&P
> friend and most of what I remember was that it was a big mess. I
> found a leaky wheel cylinder today which means a new set of O-rings
> and an afternoon of fun. Having a little less fun than the first time
> would be a good thing.
>
> Then someone said I'll have to open up the master cylinders while I'm
> doing this, but I don't recall that. I think I remember bleeding
> straight up into the reservoir.
>
> Can anyone help me refresh my memory?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | non impulse coupling mag drive gear needed for elec ignition |
You need to tell us brand and model number of the magneto.
I have some parts in a drawer .
Bob Olds
_oldsfolks@aol.com_ (mailto:oldsfolks@aol.com)
************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! |
Please forgive the cross-posting, but I sent this to the RV7 list first.
Afterward, I thought some of the other RV builders might have some good
ideas.
Guys, I'm stumped!
My when I set my leading edges on the spar, the leading edge skin butts
right up to the main wing skins (both top and bottom) perfectly. With the
tanks, it's a different story. I've been trying to figure out what's
causing the gap and the only thing I can come up with is that the
Z-brackets are a little too high.
If y'all have a couple minutes and would be willing to look at what I've
tried, I'd sure appreciate any feedback how to fix it. At this time, the
only solution I can think of is to put a joggle in the web of the
Z-brackets which will effectively shorten them by .040 inch. That seems
like it'll be pretty difficult, though so I'm really hoping for a better
solution.
Here's some pics that document the problem:
http://www.our7a.com/20070315.html
http://www.our7a.com/20070317.html
Thanks,
Mike Cencula
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