Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:35 AM - Re: Bleeding Brakes (RAS)
2. 01:51 AM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (RAS)
3. 05:34 AM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (Chuck Jensen)
4. 05:42 AM - Re: Bleeding Brakes (Dale Ensing)
5. 06:14 AM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (n801bh@netzero.com)
6. 09:14 AM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (Tracy Crook)
7. 10:33 AM - still waiting on Bluemountain (Paul Rice)
8. 02:11 PM - Fittings (Steve Glasgow)
9. 02:40 PM - Re: Fittings (Bill Boyd)
10. 02:42 PM - Re: still waiting on Bluemountain (Sam Buchanan)
11. 03:24 PM - Re: Fittings (Paul Rice)
12. 04:33 PM - Re: Fittings (David Leonard)
13. 04:54 PM - Re: non impulse coupling mag drive gear needed for elec ignition (Jeff Dowling)
14. 05:07 PM - Re: still waiting on Bluemountain (PJ Seipel)
15. 05:52 PM - Re: RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! (Dan Checkoway)
16. 09:02 PM - Re: still waiting on Bluemountain (John Jessen)
17. 09:26 PM - Wailing brakes ... (Gerry Filby)
18. 09:58 PM - Re: Wailing brakes ... (Walter Tondu)
19. 10:53 PM - Re: Wailing brakes ... (RV6 Flyer)
20. 11:47 PM - Re: DeltaHawk Engine (RAS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
Hi Andy,
I used a pressure tank, it holds about a gallon of brake fluid, use the pump
to bring the vessel under pressure, attach the hose to the bleednipple on
the caliper, open the nipple about a turn and open the valve. it shoots the
brakefluid straight into the system and out of the fluid resevoir if you're
not careful. You'll find a -4 fitting will screw into your brake fluid
resevoir, a bit of alu tubing and a jar at the bottom if you're not keen on
cleaning spilt brake fluid. Takes about five minutes this way, and you can
do it alone.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Gold" <andygold@rkymtnhi.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 10:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bleeding Brakes
>
> Where can I find step by step instructions on how to bleed the brakes.
>
> When I built the plane 10 years ago I had help with this from an A&P
> friend and most of what I remember was that it was a big mess. I found a
> leaky wheel cylinder today which means a new set of O-rings and an
> afternoon of fun. Having a little less fun than the first time would be a
> good thing.
>
> Then someone said I'll have to open up the master cylinders while I'm
> doing this, but I don't recall that. I think I remember bleeding straight
> up into the reservoir.
>
> Can anyone help me refresh my memory?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
Message Hi guys,
Apologies to butt in on this topic.
I must say I live across the Atlantic, we don't have as much freedom
here to change what we want on our aeroplanes due to the need of some
authoritive figures wanting to tell what you can or can't do.
I have been on this list for quite a few years now and have seen many
'new' engines come and go or be a major disappoinment, either by the
lack of permance or their integration with the RV airframe. Think the
Thielert Diesels, conversion cost some $20K over new Lyco price and cut
in performance to save a $$ on fuel. Maybe their new offering is better?
Can some try to explain what is so attractive to an engine that has an
unknown service history, unknown performance and to top all, is often
more costlier when the full installation is completed?
I personally don't see much sense in for example the Superior engines,
the difference with genuine Lycoming is very small and a full service
record has still to be established. I know their parts are authorized to
be used on cert Lycomings, but that's still different in my book to an
entire engine built of those parts.
Part of this doubt may be caused by the way parts are sold and kept here
in Europe, but seeing the RV is pretty much a travelling aeroplane, it
make sense to me to stick to something 'standard' as Murphy says your
aeroplane will only break away from base. What better than being able to
walk straight to the nearest mechano and say: my Lyco has packed in ,
help please. The mechano will see something he familiar with, the engine
gets fixed and you're on your way again.
If you already have reservations about putting down a deposit, what is
it going to be when you actually need parts for your engine? I mean I
can understand the factory's position by trying to generate a cashflow,
but it doesn't look good if some of their machines break down or
something alike. If they only sell production slots now, how long before
they have time to do a couple of runs of spares?
I know this may not be the most optimistic approach to something like
this, I have been running a repair shop specialising in repair of
homebuilts, but the most frequent customers are those with alternative
engines, composite designs etc.
Message 3
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| Subject: | DeltaHawk Engine |
RAS,
Your well reasoned and considered argument for stasis is logical, but
logic and common sense is only a small part of the decision equation.
Progress, improvements and advancements occur only because individuals,
against all good logic and common sense decide they want to try the
newest, greatest, fastest, shiniest, coolest. In making that decision
we already know there are going to be a few "Affordable Turbines" in the
lot, but that's the price of progress. Some are willing to risk their
time, effort and money on the oft chance that the newest, latest and
greatest is just that.
But for the willingness to try different things, we would all be driving
American-built cars that were good for 50,000 mile (maybe) before they
were a pile of junk (remember the '70s and '80s?). Now, American-built
cars, after responding to foreign competition, are good for 100,000
before they need a tune-up. This came about simply because a large
number of people said the status quo is not good enough. Progress comes
in fits and start and is rarely a pretty process, but it never occurs
unless people are willing to buck the system and take chances.
In the end, its probably a cultural thing. It's why in the U.S. we have
many breakthroughs, and many abject failures...but always a subset of
people willing to try the new and unknown.
Now, with that said, I would hesistate to put down a $5,000 deposit on
an engine of an unknown level of development and uncertain future,
unless I gave the money a proper going away party and with expectation
that we are unlikely to meet up again in the future.
Chuck Jensen
Note: New Phone Extension
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RAS
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: DeltaHawk Engine
Hi guys,
Apologies to butt in on this topic.
I must say I live across the Atlantic, we don't have as much freedom
here to change what we want on our aeroplanes due to the need of some
authoritive figures wanting to tell what you can or can't do.
I have been on this list for quite a few years now and have seen many
'new' engines come and go or be a major disappoinment, either by the
lack of permance or their integration with the RV airframe. Think the
Thielert Diesels, conversion cost some $20K over new Lyco price and cut
in performance to save a $$ on fuel. Maybe their new offering is better?
Can some try to explain what is so attractive to an engine that has an
unknown service history, unknown performance and to top all, is often
more costlier when the full installation is completed?
I personally don't see much sense in for example the Superior engines,
the difference with genuine Lycoming is very small and a full service
record has still to be established. I know their parts are authorized to
be used on cert Lycomings, but that's still different in my book to an
entire engine built of those parts.
Part of this doubt may be caused by the way parts are sold and kept here
in Europe, but seeing the RV is pretty much a travelling aeroplane, it
make sense to me to stick to something 'standard' as Murphy says your
aeroplane will only break away from base. What better than being able to
walk straight to the nearest mechano and say: my Lyco has packed in ,
help please. The mechano will see something he familiar with, the engine
gets fixed and you're on your way again.
If you already have reservations about putting down a deposit, what is
it going to be when you actually need parts for your engine? I mean I
can understand the factory's position by trying to generate a cashflow,
but it doesn't look good if some of their machines break down or
something alike. If they only sell production slots now, how long before
they have time to do a couple of runs of spares?
I know this may not be the most optimistic approach to something like
this, I have been running a repair shop specialising in repair of
homebuilts, but the most frequent customers are those with alternative
engines, composite designs etc.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bleeding Brakes |
Marcel's suggested method also worked very well for me. I ran the tubing
from the reservoir back into the gallon container the brake fluid came in
which allow me to push sufficient fluid thru the lines to carry some bubbles
out of the high points in the lines between the left and right pedals.
Note: I used a one gallon garden sprayer for my pressure tank. When I first
tried this, I used the garden sprayer pump to pressurize it. Not a good
idea! The bottom of the pump was below the fluid level in the tank and this
put small bubbles into the fluid that showed up as large bubbles after a
period of time. I then drilled a hole in the top of the garden sprayer tank
for an air fitting. (a filler valve like on an inner tube but with pipe
treads on the other end.) I sealed the air fitting to the plastic tank with
Super Glue. The pressure tank was then pressurized with an external source.
Put in about 10 pounds or so. Enough to get the fluid moving sufficiently
fast to move the air bubbles to the reservoir and out to the catch can.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bleeding Brakes
> <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> I used a pressure tank, it holds about a gallon of brake fluid, use the
> pump to bring the vessel under pressure, attach the hose to the
> bleednipple on the caliper, open the nipple about a turn and open the
> valve. it shoots the brakefluid straight into the system and out of the
> fluid resevoir if you're not careful. You'll find a -4 fitting will screw
> into your brake fluid resevoir, a bit of alu tubing and a jar at the
> bottom if you're not keen on cleaning spilt brake fluid. Takes about five
> minutes this way, and you can do it alone.
>
> Marcel
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andy Gold" <andygold@rkymtnhi.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 10:59 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Bleeding Brakes
>
>
>>
>> Where can I find step by step instructions on how to bleed the brakes.
>>
>> When I built the plane 10 years ago I had help with this from an A&P
>> friend and most of what I remember was that it was a big mess. I found a
>> leaky wheel cylinder today which means a new set of O-rings and an
>> afternoon of fun. Having a little less fun than the first time would be
>> a good thing.
>>
>> Then someone said I'll have to open up the master cylinders while I'm
>> doing this, but I don't recall that. I think I remember bleeding
>> straight up into the reservoir.
>>
>> Can anyone help me refresh my memory?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Andy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
Funny, you didn't mention a thing about the 3 Lycoming crankshaft recall
s, the cranks that have killed 15 or more humans so far, and caused unto
ld millions of lost revenue for the operators of those "certified" engin
es. The latest recall, actually they are now calling it an "early retire
ment" of cranks and the customer gets to eat most of the cost of their p
oor business practices. Granted the alternative engine market is not the
best either but the true intent of the homebuilt / experimental plane
avenue is to push the envelope and find better stuff. The very thing "c
ertified" planes cannot do. IMHO
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com> wrote:
Hi guys, Apologies to butt in on this topic. I must say I live across t
he Atlantic, we don't have as much freedom here to change what we want o
n our aeroplanes due to the need of some authoritive figures wanting to
tell what you can or can't do. I have been on this list for quite a few
years now and have seen many 'new' engines come and go or be a major dis
appoinment, either by the lack of permance or their integration with the
RV airframe. Think the Thielert Diesels, conversion cost some $20K over
new Lyco price and cut in performance to save a $$ on fuel. Maybe their
new offering is better? Can some try to explain what is so attractive t
o an engine that has an unknown service history, unknown performance and
to top all, is often more costlier when the full installation is comple
ted? I personally don't see much sense in for example the Superior engin
es, the difference with genuine Lycoming is very small and a full servic
e record has still to be established. I know their parts are authorized
to be used on cert Lycomings, but that's still different in my book to a
n entire engine built of those parts.Part of this doubt may be caused by
the way parts are sold and kept here in Europe, but seeing the RV is pr
etty much a travelling aeroplane, it make sense to me to stick to someth
ing 'standard' as Murphy says your aeroplane will only break away from b
ase. What better than being able to walk straight to the nearest mechano
and say: my Lyco has packed in , help please. The mechano will see some
thing he familiar with, the engine gets fixed and you're on your way aga
in. If you already have reservations about putting down a deposit, what
is it going to be when you actually need parts for your engine? I mean I
can understand the factory's position by trying to generate a cashflow,
but it doesn't look good if some of their machines break down or someth
ing alike. If they only sell production slots now, how long before they
have time to do a couple of runs of spares? I know this may not be the m
ost optimistic approach to something like this, I have been running a re
pair shop specialising in repair of homebuilts, but the most frequent cu
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
===================
<html><P>Funny, you didn't mention a thing about the 3 Lycoming cranksha
ft recalls, the cranks that have killed 15 or more humans so far, a
nd caused untold millions of lost revenue for the operators of those "ce
rtified" engines. The latest recall, actually they are now calling it an
"early retirement" of cranks and the customer gets to eat most of the c
ost of their poor business practices. Granted the alternative engine mar
ket is not the best either but the true intent of the homebuilt /
experimental plane avenue is to push the envelope and find better stuff.
The very thing "certified" planes cannot do. IMHO</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.c
om> wrote:<BR></P>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Hi guys,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Apologies to butt in on this topic.</FO
NT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I must say I live across the Atlantic,
we don't have as much freedom here to change what we want on our aeropla
nes due to the need of some authoritive figures wanting to tell what you
can or can't do.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have been on this list for quite a fe
w years now and have seen many 'new' engines come and go or be a major d
isappoinment, either by the lack of permance or their integration with t
he RV airframe. Think the Thielert Diesels, conversion cost some $20K ov
er new Lyco price and cut in performance to save a $$ on fuel. Maybe the
ir new offering is better?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Can some try to explain what is so attr
active to an engine that has an unknown service history, unknown perform
ance and to top all, is often more costlier when the full installation i
s completed?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I personally don't see much sense in fo
r example the Superior engines, the difference with genuine Lycoming is
very small and a full service record has still to be established. I know
their parts are authorized to be used on cert Lycomings, but that's sti
ll different in my book to an entire engine built of those parts.</FONT>
</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Part of this doubt may be caused by the
way parts are sold and kept here in Europe, but seeing the RV is pretty
much a travelling aeroplane, it make sense to me to stick to something
'standard' as Murphy says your aeroplane will only break away from base.
What better than being able to walk straight to the nearest mechano and
say: my Lyco has packed in , help please. The mechano will see somethin
g he familiar with, the engine gets fixed and you're on your way again.<
/FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you already have reservations about
putting down a deposit, what is it going to be when you actually ne
ed parts for your engine? I mean I can understand the factory's position
by trying to generate a cashflow, but it doesn't look good if some of t
heir machines break down or something alike. If they only sell productio
n slots now, how long before they have time to do a couple of runs of sp
ares?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I know this may not be the most optimis
tic approach to something like this, I have been running a repair shop s
pecialising in repair of homebuilts, but the most frequent customers are
those with alternative engines, composite designs etc.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000
000 size=2>
========================
===========
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List</A>
========================
===========
tronics.com</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
MessageRAS, It's the Romance man!
I would not put down $5k on this thing either but that's a different
matter. To some of us, there is an irresistible appeal to having
something different under the cowl, especially if it offers some
advantages. Just cruising along hearing that very alien sound from an
engine installation of your own design adds a whole new dimension to
flying for some of us.
Tracy Crook
Mazda 13B powered RV-4 1600+ hrs
Mazda 20B powered RV-8 (still waiting on Bluemountain EFIS1)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: RAS<mailto:deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: DeltaHawk Engine
Hi guys,
Apologies to butt in on this topic.
I must say I live across the Atlantic, we don't have as much freedom
here to change what we want on our aeroplanes due to the need of some
authoritive figures wanting to tell what you can or can't do.
I have been on this list for quite a few years now and have seen many
'new' engines come and go or be a major disappoinment, either by the
lack of permance or their integration with the RV airframe. Think the
Thielert Diesels, conversion cost some $20K over new Lyco price and cut
in performance to save a $$ on fuel. Maybe their new offering is better?
Can some try to explain what is so attractive to an engine that has an
unknown service history, unknown performance and to top all, is often
more costlier when the full installation is completed?
I personally don't see much sense in for example the Superior engines,
the difference with genuine Lycoming is very small and a full service
record has still to be established. I know their parts are authorized to
be used on cert Lycomings, but that's still different in my book to an
entire engine built of those parts.
Part of this doubt may be caused by the way parts are sold and kept
here in Europe, but seeing the RV is pretty much a travelling aeroplane,
it make sense to me to stick to something 'standard' as Murphy says your
aeroplane will only break away from base. What better than being able to
walk straight to the nearest mechano and say: my Lyco has packed in ,
help please. The mechano will see something he familiar with, the engine
gets fixed and you're on your way again.
If you already have reservations about putting down a deposit, what is
it going to be when you actually need parts for your engine? I mean I
can understand the factory's position by trying to generate a cashflow,
but it doesn't look good if some of their machines break down or
something alike. If they only sell production slots now, how long before
they have time to do a couple of runs of spares?
I know this may not be the most optimistic approach to something like
this, I have been running a repair shop specialising in repair of
homebuilts, but the most frequent customers are those with alternative
engines, composite designs etc.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV-List>
Message 7
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| Subject: | still waiting on Bluemountain |
Message
I'm still waiting on my 2 Blue Mountain G4's it will be almost 5
months since I ordered them if I get them in the next week or so. And I
keep hearing the same thing from them. The problem with the temp sensors
caused a back log blah blah blah. The give me an est. shipping week
then when that time come they give another and so on. How long has
anybody else been waiting? Maybe I should have gone with the Dynon.
Any problems on their deliveries.
Paul Rice
RV8 almost ready to fly
Message 8
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Looking for oil pressure line fitting that screws into the engine crankcase
with restricted orifice. Does anyone know who carries them?
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
Message 9
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Cappy, maybe someone makes them ready-to-go; I'm pretty sure I fabbed
one from a fitting plugged with solder or JB-weld and drilled out #60.
Maybe I squeezed a rivet in there and then drilled it out...? It's
been 10 years.
Re-doing stuff on your plane? I'm due for new hoses FWF myself.
While I'm at it, I'll do the stainless steel towel bar firewall
feed-through for all the cables and wires.
It's going to be a busy spring, I can tell already :-)
-Stormy
> Looking for oil pressure line fitting that screws into the engine crankcase
> with restricted orifice. Does anyone know who carries them?
>
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> N123SG RV-8
> Cappy's Toy
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: still waiting on Bluemountain |
Paul Rice wrote:
> Message I'm still waiting on my 2 Blue Mountain G4's it will be
> almost 5 months since I ordered them if I get them in the next week
> or so. And I keep hearing the same thing from them. The problem with
> the temp sensors caused a back log blah blah blah. The give me an
> est. shipping week then when that time come they give another and so
> on. How long has anybody else been waiting? Maybe I should have
> gone with the Dynon. Any problems on their deliveries.
>
> Paul Rice RV8 almost ready to fly
Paul, as far as I know Dynon ships from stock, but your best bet is to
call them to ask about delivery. My experience with Dynon has been
reliable and truthful.
Sam Buchanan
Message 11
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Van's has it, item number VA-128.
Paul
> Looking for oil pressure line fitting that screws into the engine
crankcase
> with restricted orifice. Does anyone know who carries them?
>
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> N123SG RV-8
> Cappy's Toy
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV-List>
Message 12
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Gee, I thought we alternative engine guys were the only one's who had to
improvise stuff like that. :-)
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
On 3/18/07, Bill Boyd <sportav8r@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Cappy, maybe someone makes them ready-to-go; I'm pretty sure I fabbed
> one from a fitting plugged with solder or JB-weld and drilled out #60.
> Maybe I squeezed a rivet in there and then drilled it out...? It's
> been 10 years.
>
> Re-doing stuff on your plane? I'm due for new hoses FWF myself.
> While I'm at it, I'll do the stainless steel towel bar firewall
> feed-through for all the cables and wires.
>
> It's going to be a busy spring, I can tell already :-)
>
> -Stormy
>
>
> > Looking for oil pressure line fitting that screws into the engine
> crankcase
> > with restricted orifice. Does anyone know who carries them?
> >
> > Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> > N123SG RV-8
> > Cappy's Toy
> >
> >
> >
> >
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: non impulse coupling mag drive gear needed for elec ignition |
OK, found the receipt for the new one I purchased. Its a slick, model
4371. Not sure what the other one is yet but I assume the same model.
Jeff
Oldsfolks@aol.com wrote:
> You need to tell us brand and model number of the magneto.
> I have some parts in a drawer .
>
> Bob Olds
> oldsfolks@aol.com <mailto:oldsfolks@aol.com>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> from AOL at *AOL.com* <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000339>.
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: still waiting on Bluemountain |
Ordered mine at Oshkosh. Received it about 1.5 weeks ago. I think if I
hadn't kept calling/emailing them, I'd still be waiting.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
do not archive
Paul Rice wrote:
>
>
> *I'm still waiting on my 2 Blue Mountain G4's it will be almost 5
> months since I ordered them if I get them in the next week or
> so. And I keep hearing the same thing from them. The problem with
> the temp sensors caused a back log blah blah blah. The give me an
> est. shipping week then when that time come they give another and
> so on. How long has anybody else been waiting? Maybe I should
> have gone with the Dynon. Any problems on their deliveries.*
>
> *Paul Rice*
> *RV8 almost ready to fly*
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help! |
Check the aft flange bend angle on the fuel tank ribs. If it's not 90
degrees, then it pushes the baffle "aft" and causes the problem you're
seeing.
Also make sure the fuel tank ribs are well seated inside the tank skin.
That means all flanges on all tank ribs are square, and the "flats" around
the nose aren't causing "high spots" that prevent the nose of the rib from
seating all the way fwd.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1230 hours)
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com / www.weighmyplane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hall" <dhall@donka.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV7-List: Z-bracket height (again) - Help!
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Don Hall <dhall@donka.net>
>
> Modifying the zbracket is crazy talk. :) Van's isn't perfect, but they
> get it right more than we do.
>
> IMO, you should not be concerned about that small of a gap just yet. The
> tank skin is extremely stiff, and by the time you rivet the structure
> together, it should tighten up enough to close that gap.
>
> Even so, I offer the following suggestions for you at these stage.
> - cleco every hole.
> - maybe drill out the screw holes and try putting in screws.
>
>
> On Mar 18, 2007, at 1:50 AM, Charlie England wrote:
>
>> --> RV7-List message posted by: Charlie England
>> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Michael D. Cencula wrote:
>>> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Michael D. Cencula"
>>> <matronics@cencula.com>
>>> <snip>
>>>> Have you tried pulling the tank down (back) on the spar with
>>>> ratcheting
>>>> strap clamps? (You'll need a spacer at the rear spar to keep from
>>>> bending the trailing edge skin.) Run the straps directly over ribs; I
>>>> think I put them one bay in from each end of the tank.
>>>>
>>>> With the ribs, it's easy for slight flange irregularities to add up &
>>>> push the back baffle back.
>>>>
>>>> Have you checked to see if the back baffle is totally flat (not bowed
>>>> to
>>>> the rear) when it's assembled to the ribs & skin? If it's not, that
>>>> would be another indicator that the flanges are pushing the baffle
>>>> back.
>>>>
>>>> Charlie
>>> Charlie,
>>> Thanks for the response. Indeed I have tried pulling it down with
>>> ratcheting strap clamps. I can close the gap up by doing that, but
>>> doing so flexes the baffle. Is it normal to need to pull the tank
>>> towards the spar before driving the screws into the platenuts?
>>> With no clamps on, the baffle is mostly straight, but the center is
>>> bowed *up* a little. I believe that bowing is because the weight of
>>> the tank is resting on the Z bracket.
>>> Mike
>>
>> Are the tank holes/spar holes offset by the same amount as the skin gap?
>> (I've 'over-prepped' an edge or two & that could leave a gap at the
>> point in question.)
>>
>> Is the gap between the tank skin & wing skin perfectly consistent along
>> the entire length & on both top & bottom of the wing? If not:
>>
>> Is the spar perfectly straight? (Jack under middle of trailing edge spar
>> & tweak it up/down to see if the tank will fall into place with a little
>> help from the straps.)
>>
>> Is there any twist in the spar?
>>
>> If you haven't riveted on the outboard leading edge, have you tried the
>> tank without the outboard leading edge in place?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | still waiting on Bluemountain |
If you're thinking Dynon, also take a look at Rob's gear.
http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: still waiting on Bluemountain
Paul Rice wrote:
> Message I'm still waiting on my 2 Blue Mountain G4's it will be
> almost 5 months since I ordered them if I get them in the next week or
> so. And I keep hearing the same thing from them. The problem with the
> temp sensors caused a back log blah blah blah. The give me an est.
> shipping week then when that time come they give another and so on.
> How long has anybody else been waiting? Maybe I should have gone with
> the Dynon. Any problems on their deliveries.
>
> Paul Rice RV8 almost ready to fly
Paul, as far as I know Dynon ships from stock, but your best bet is to call
them to ask about delivery. My experience with Dynon has been reliable and
truthful.
Sam Buchanan
Message 17
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| Subject: | Wailing brakes ... |
Anyone got a cure or wailing brakes ? Particularly when I pull up to a st
op for the run-up ... scares the Bejesus out of the passengers. The calip
ers are moving free on the pins, there's plenty of time on the pads ... t
hey should have seated by now ... Infusion of witchhazel ? Three Hail Mar
ys and a splash of Holy water ? Replace the pads ? Get over it and tell t
he passenger its the "super-turbo" winding up ?
Seriously, any suggestions greatly appreciated ...
g
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Wailing brakes ... |
On 03/19 4:25, Gerry Filby wrote:
> Anyone got a cure or wailing brakes ? Particularly when I pull up to a
> stop for the run-up ... scares the Bejesus out of the passengers. The
> calipers are moving free on the pins, there's plenty of time on the pads
> ... they should have seated by now ... Infusion of witchhazel ? Three
> Hail Marys and a splash of Holy water ? Replace the pads ? Get over it
> and tell the passenger its the "super-turbo" winding up ?
Good subject. I've just experienced this on the last couple of flights,
only on the left brake. I'm thinking that some of my fiberglass powder
got in there while I was sanding the wheelpants. I'll be pulling it all
apart and giving it a thorough cleaning this week. Not sure if it will
help...
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
Message 19
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| Subject: | Wailing brakes ... |
See the archives.
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=161435118?KEYS=brake_noise_?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=22484826031?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
I had the same problem. Removing all stress form the line fixed it. I
remember one guy that used hose and had the problem till he replaced the
hose with aluminum line. It was in the RVAtor 7 or 8 years ago.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,986 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wailing brakes ...
Anyone got a cure or wailing brakes ? Particularly when I pull up to a stop
for the run-up ... scares the Bejesus out of the passengers. The calipers
are moving free on the pins, there's plenty of time on the pads ... they
should have seated by now ... Infusion of witchhazel ? Three Hail Marys and
a splash of Holy water ? Replace the pads ? Get over it and tell the
passenger its the "super-turbo" winding up ?
Seriously, any suggestions greatly appreciated ...
g
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: DeltaHawk Engine |
Ben,
The point I was trying to make that like for like purchase price does
not give enough of a difference to really justify a lot of the
experimentation with non Lycoming engines on RV's. The prices for the
Lycomings through Van's make it very difficult for any company to be
really competitive. I don't think that couple of thousand is truly
enough. I know that with the Superior you can just bolt on when it comes
to an RV, however you do loose the SB and AD warnings.
here in Europe Thielert has been marketing their Centurion Engine. Nice
story aout the 15litre or so fuel burn, what it doesn't say though in
the bold advertising print that you get a reduction of 300LBS or
thereabout on your C172 or PA28. Now, in my book that's a hell of trade
off. The engine conversion cost for said aircraft is around =A345,000,
read this pounds not dollars! Must a complain about the odd
inconvenience of a SB or AD even if it does cost $2,000 to replace a
crankshaft? Me thinks not.
With regards to the last 3 recalls re: crankshafts, there's not one
engine hit by all three :-)
You mention the millions of lost revenue, how much would have been lost
if the superior engines would have been certified when they had the
recall on cylinders? Last time I looked engines don't run equelly well
without either a crank or the cylinders....
The human life is always and will always be a tragedy. Compliance with
SB and AD is paramount to try and avoid loss of life. That's what
they're there for, even though some think it's just a money spinner.
However improper produced parts are a risk. Rather than complain about
the cost and annoyance of compliance, carry them out and make sure those
who died did not do so in vane.
do not archive
Marcel
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