Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:50 AM - Re: Hard Starting Without Primer (james frierson)
2. 05:24 AM - Re: Hard Starting Without Primer (Snow, Daniel A.)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: Hard Starting Without Primer (Dale Walter)
4. 08:01 AM - Re: Hard Starting Without Primer (Dave B)
5. 08:55 AM - Re: Hard Starting Without Primer (John Danielson)
6. 03:06 PM - Suggested stops Sacramento - Oshkosh (Richard Suffoletto)
7. 05:43 PM - Re: Hard Starting Without Primer (n801bh@netzero.com)
8. 05:52 PM - Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley (Dale Walter)
9. 07:10 PM - Re: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley (eddyfernan@aol.com)
10. 07:32 PM - Re: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley (Jim Jewell)
11. 08:15 PM - Re: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley (Dale Walter)
12. 09:11 PM - Re: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley (Jerry Springer)
13. 10:47 PM - Re: Suggested stops Sacramento - Oshkosh (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Hard Starting Without Primer |
I have basically the same setup and all I do is pump the throttle once or
twice depending on the temperature and it fires off within one or two
blades. You may need to check your ignition system. The local spam can
rental was having the same problem and it was traced to a bad mag.
Generally if it is getting fuel, air and spark something is going to happen
pretty quick. Not to mention that you are damaging your starter with all
that cranking...
Hope this helps and let us know what happens.
Scott
Based on the experience of others, I didn't install a primer on my new
Superior XP O-320 engine. I use the mixture control to kill the engine,
so I understand fuel has to get back to the jets before it will run.
However, I'm having to crank for roughly 20 seconds, let the starter
cool, then crank again for nearly 20 seconds before it will start. My
start sequence is;
Master on
Fuel pump on for at least 10 seconds
Throttle 1/4 open
Crank for 5 seconds
Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
Stop cranking and let starter cool for 2 minutes
Crank for 5 seconds
Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
Start playing with throttle to find the "sweet spot"
Starts rough until I find the "sweet spot"
Idles smoothly and runs up fine after warm
For those of you who don't use a primer, do you have any suggestions? I
don't know if I'm giving it too much fuel or not enough. I don't smell
gas at the air inlet, so I don't think I'm flooding it, but I'm afraid
to pump too much at the beginning. Do I need to just let the boost pump
run for a while with the throttle at 1/4 open to get fuel to the jets,
or is that only going to work when the engine is cranking over?
I just remembered, it restarts within a couple of revolutions when I
shut it down using the mixture control, so fuel should be reaching the
jets fairly quickly on a cold start.
Thanks,
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, 1 week to SnF, 2 weeks to inspectio======================== -
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Hard Starting Without Primer |
As I've posted before, my Superior XP O-320 has the same MA4-5 used on
the O-360's. Someone pointed out that they could feel when the
accelerator pump was pumping fuel, however the MA4-5 has a spring
connection to the pump lever that causes the pump to move at a
semi-constant speed regardless of how quickly you pump the throttle.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Last night I pumped one time and
closed the throttle, followed immediately by cranking. It started in
2-3 blades. The next test is to not pump before cranking and see if the
idle circuit is enough to start the engine in a couple of blades.
Daniel Snow
>Also, IIRC, while the MA4-5 carburetor used on virtually all carbureted
>O-360s has an accelerator I seem to remember that many of the models
for the
>O-320 do not. Get the exact model number of your carburetor and do some
>reasearch on it to determine whether it has an accelerator pump or not.
If
>it doesn't then pumping won't do any good. Once you get the model
number you
>can always call Precision Airmotive for confirmation...
Message 3
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| Subject: | Hard Starting Without Primer |
Glad to hear the good news, great progress!
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Snow, Daniel A.
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 8:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hard Starting Without Primer
As I've posted before, my Superior XP O-320 has the same MA4-5 used on
the O-360's. Someone pointed out that they could feel when the
accelerator pump was pumping fuel, however the MA4-5 has a spring
connection to the pump lever that causes the pump to move at a
semi-constant speed regardless of how quickly you pump the throttle.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Last night I pumped one time and
closed the throttle, followed immediately by cranking. It started in
2-3 blades. The next test is to not pump before cranking and see if the
idle circuit is enough to start the engine in a couple of blades.
Daniel Snow
>Also, IIRC, while the MA4-5 carburetor used on virtually all carbureted
>O-360s has an accelerator I seem to remember that many of the models
for the
>O-320 do not. Get the exact model number of your carburetor and do some
>reasearch on it to determine whether it has an accelerator pump or not.
If
>it doesn't then pumping won't do any good. Once you get the model
number you
>can always call Precision Airmotive for confirmation...
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hard Starting Without Primer |
This is a good point. My AFP injected O360A1D started perfectly for
several years even though I had installed the wrong Shower of Sparks
unit and it wasn't working at all, meaning that it was starting with NO
spark retard because the SkyTec starter cranked it so fast that it
didn't matter. Then when the battery started to get weak it got very
hard to start. Modifying the SOS solved the problem.
So, check the ignition system, be sure it's starting on the correct mag
and that the impulse is working.
Dave
> You may need to check your ignition system. The local spam can rental
> was having the same problem and it was traced to a bad mag.
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Hard Starting Without Primer |
I agree with not being to aggressive about pumping the throttle when
starting.
The exception to this is when you are trying to start a very cold engine
( 0 deg or colder). I had problems starting my engine while in Rochester
MN about 4 years ago. The outside temp was -10 Deg., the plane had been
in a hanger at about 15 deg. The engine just would not start with normal
priming and a pump or two of the throttle.
One old boy told me to pump the throttle vigoursly as I cranked the
engine. I probably pumped the throttle 10 times, but the engine did
catch and began to run normally.
Just a thought.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Walter
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hard Starting Without Primer
Two things to consider:
If the result of one pump of throttle is liquid and not spray, your
cranking
engine will not pull the liquid against gravity.
2nd; my method is to pump once and crank immediately before it
condenses.
This allows me to set the throttle to correct position (nearly closed eg
1/8
inch from closed) for cold start.
I agree that multiple pumps will cause excess liquid fuel and is a fire
hazard, even while cranking. Multiple pumps is similar to working with
hammers and pliers when you need wrenches.
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hard Starting Without Primer
Daniel,
I have an 0-360A1A and I couldn't start mine easily without the primer.
I
know I have heard others doing it, but I can't get mine started
reasonably
without using it. Thankfully I installed it. Also I think you don't
want
to pump the throttle unless you are cranking simultaneously. If it is
an
updraft carb, then fuel can just run out into the airbox, down the drain
hole into the cowl and well, you get the point. Why not just install a
primer?
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Snow, Daniel A.
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 7:13 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Hard Starting Without Primer
>
<Daniel.Snow@wancdf.com>
>
> Based on the experience of others, I didn't install a primer on my new
> Superior XP O-320 engine. I use the mixture control to kill the
engine,
> so I understand fuel has to get back to the jets before it will run.
> However, I'm having to crank for roughly 20 seconds, let the starter
> cool, then crank again for nearly 20 seconds before it will start. My
> start sequence is;
>
> Master on
> Fuel pump on for at least 10 seconds
> Throttle 1/4 open
> Crank for 5 seconds
> Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
> Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
> Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
> Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
> Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
> Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
> Stop cranking and let starter cool for 2 minutes
> Crank for 5 seconds
> Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
> Start playing with throttle to find the "sweet spot"
> Starts rough until I find the "sweet spot"
> Idles smoothly and runs up fine after warm
>
> For those of you who don't use a primer, do you have any suggestions?
I
> don't know if I'm giving it too much fuel or not enough. I don't
smell
> gas at the air inlet, so I don't think I'm flooding it, but I'm afraid
> to pump too much at the beginning. Do I need to just let the boost
pump
> run for a while with the throttle at 1/4 open to get fuel to the jets,
> or is that only going to work when the engine is cranking over?
>
> I just remembered, it restarts within a couple of revolutions when I
> shut it down using the mixture control, so fuel should be reaching the
> jets fairly quickly on a cold start.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Daniel Snow
> RV-9A, 1 week to SnF, 2 weeks to inspection
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Suggested stops Sacramento - Oshkosh |
I am planning to fly to OSH from the Sacramento area for the first time
this year. Just wondered if anyone had a favorite fuel/food/overnight stop
along the route. I plan to take my time and see some of the country along
the way.
Thanks
Richard
--
10:44 PM
Message 7
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| Subject: | Hard Starting Without Primer |
Your point is well taken. Here where I live in Jackson Hole Wy a 0 degre
e day is about half the year. :-). My theory was to pump the throttle wh
ile cranking the motor. As soon as it starts just use enough throttle to
keep it running. On a cold day it will take several shots of fuel throu
gh the accelerator pump, of course if it is warmer then the motor will l
ight off on the first pump, or maybe even before. !!!! YMMV.........
.....
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com> wrote:
I agree with not being to aggressive about pumping the throttle when
starting.
The exception to this is when you are trying to start a very cold engine
( 0 deg or colder). I had problems starting my engine while in Rochester
MN about 4 years ago. The outside temp was -10 Deg., the plane had been
in a hanger at about 15 deg. The engine just would not start with normal
priming and a pump or two of the throttle.
One old boy told me to pump the throttle vigoursly as I cranked the
engine. I probably pumped the throttle 10 times, but the engine did
catch and began to run normally.
Just a thought.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Walter
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 12:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hard Starting Without Primer
Two things to consider:
If the result of one pump of throttle is liquid and not spray, your
cranking
engine will not pull the liquid against gravity.
2nd; my method is to pump once and crank immediately before it
condenses.
This allows me to set the throttle to correct position (nearly closed eg
1/8
inch from closed) for cold start.
I agree that multiple pumps will cause excess liquid fuel and is a fire
hazard, even while cranking. Multiple pumps is similar to working with
hammers and pliers when you need wrenches.
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hard Starting Without Primer
Daniel,
I have an 0-360A1A and I couldn't start mine easily without the primer.
I
know I have heard others doing it, but I can't get mine started
reasonably
without using it. Thankfully I installed it. Also I think you don't
want
to pump the throttle unless you are cranking simultaneously. If it is
an
updraft carb, then fuel can just run out into the airbox, down the drain
hole into the cowl and well, you get the point. Why not just install a
primer?
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Snow, Daniel A.
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 7:13 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Hard Starting Without Primer
>
<Daniel.Snow@wancdf.com>
>
> Based on the experience of others, I didn't install a primer on my new
> Superior XP O-320 engine. I use the mixture control to kill the
engine,
> so I understand fuel has to get back to the jets before it will run.
> However, I'm having to crank for roughly 20 seconds, let the starter
> cool, then crank again for nearly 20 seconds before it will start. My
> start sequence is;
>
> Master on
> Fuel pump on for at least 10 seconds
> Throttle 1/4 open
> Crank for 5 seconds
> Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
> Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
> Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
> Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
> Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
> Continue cranking for 5 more seconds
> Stop cranking and let starter cool for 2 minutes
> Crank for 5 seconds
> Pump throttle one time and hold at 1/4 open
> Start playing with throttle to find the "sweet spot"
> Starts rough until I find the "sweet spot"
> Idles smoothly and runs up fine after warm
>
> For those of you who don't use a primer, do you have any suggestions?
I
> don't know if I'm giving it too much fuel or not enough. I don't
smell
> gas at the air inlet, so I don't think I'm flooding it, but I'm afraid
> to pump too much at the beginning. Do I need to just let the boost
pump
> run for a while with the throttle at 1/4 open to get fuel to the jets,
> or is that only going to work when the engine is cranking over?
>
> I just remembered, it restarts within a couple of revolutions when I
> shut it down using the mixture control, so fuel should be reaching the
> jets fairly quickly on a cold start.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Daniel Snow
> RV-9A, 1 week to SnF, 2 weeks to inspection
>
>
>
>
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
<html><P>Your point is well taken. Here where I live in Jackson Hole Wy
a 0 degree day is about half the year. :-). My theory was to pump the th
rottle while cranking the motor. As soon as it starts just use enough th
rottle to keep it running. On a cold day it will take several shots of f
uel through the accelerator pump, of course if it is warmer then the mot
or will light off on the first pump, or maybe even before. !!!! &nb
sp; YMMV..............</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>&
nbsp;wrote:<BR>--> RV-List message posted by:&nbs
p;"John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com><BR><BR>I agre
e with not being to aggressive about
pumping the throttle when<BR>starting.<BR>The except
ion to this is when you are trying&nb
sp;to start a very cold engine<BR>( 0 
;deg or colder). I had problems starting&n
bsp;my engine while in Rochester<BR>MN about&nb
sp;4 years ago. The outside temp was
-10 Deg., the plane had been<BR>in a
hanger at about 15 deg. The engine ju
st would not start with normal<BR>priming
and a pump or two of the throttle.&nb
sp;<BR>One old boy told me to pump th
e throttle vigoursly as I cranked the<BR>e
ngine. I probably pumped the throttle 10&n
bsp;times, but the engine did<BR>catch and 
;began to run normally.<BR>Just a thought.<BR><
BR>John L. Danielson<BR><BR><BR>-----Original Message----
-<BR>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com<BR>[mailto:owner-rv-l
ist-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Wal
ter<BR>Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 12:05&nb
sp;PM<BR>To: rv-list@matronics.com<BR>Subject: RE: RV-Lis
t: Hard Starting Without Primer<BR><BR>--> R
V-List message posted by: "Dale Walter" &l
t;dale1rv6@comcast.net><BR><BR>Two things to consider:
<BR>If the result of one pump of thro
ttle is liquid and not spray, your<BR>cran
king<BR>engine will not pull the liquid ag
ainst gravity.<BR><BR>2nd; my method is to 
;pump once and crank immediately before it
<BR>condenses.<BR>This allows me to set the&nbs
p;throttle to correct position (nearly closed&n
bsp;eg<BR>1/8<BR>inch from closed) for cold sta
rt.<BR><BR>I agree that multiple pumps will&nbs
p;cause excess liquid fuel and is a f
ire<BR>hazard, even while cranking. Multiple pu
mps is similar to working with<BR>hammers
and pliers when you need wrenches. <BR><BR
>Dale<BR><BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: owner-rv-list
-server@matronics.com<BR>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]&nbs
p;On Behalf Of Tim Bryan<BR>Sent: Wednesday,&nb
sp;April 11, 2007 9:57 AM<BR>To: rv-list@matron
ics.com<BR>Subject: RE: RV-List: Hard Starting
Without Primer<BR><BR>--> RV-List message posted&
nbsp;by: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com><BR><BR>Da
niel,<BR><BR>I have an 0-360A1A and I coul
dn't start mine easily without the primer.
<BR>I<BR>know I have heard others doing it
, but I can't get mine started<BR>reasonab
ly<BR>without using it. Thankfully I inst
alled it. Also I think you don't<BR>
want<BR>to pump the throttle unless you ar
e cranking simultaneously. If it is<BR>an
<BR>updraft carb, then fuel can just run&n
bsp;out into the airbox, down the drain<BR
>hole into the cowl and well, you get
the point. Why not just install&nbs
p;a<BR>primer?<BR><BR>Tim<BR><BR>> -----Original Message---
--<BR>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mail
to:owner-rv-list-<BR>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf
Of Snow, Daniel A.<BR>> Sent: Wednesda
y, April 11, 2007 7:13 AM<BR>> To: 
;rv-list@matronics.com<BR>> Subject: RV-List: Hard&nbs
p;Starting Without Primer<BR>> <BR>> -->&nb
sp;RV-List message posted by: "Snow, Daniel&nbs
p;A."<BR><Daniel.Snow@wancdf.com><BR>> <BR>> Based
on the experience of others, I didn'
t install a primer on my new<BR>>
Superior XP O-320 engine. I use the&
nbsp;mixture control to kill the<BR>engine,<BR>>&
nbsp;so I understand fuel has to get
back to the jets before it will run.<
BR>> However, I'm having to crank for&n
bsp;roughly 20 seconds, let the starter<BR>>
cool, then crank again for nearly 20
seconds before it will start. My<BR
>> start sequence is;<BR>> <BR>> Maste
r on<BR>> Fuel pump on for at leas
t 10 seconds<BR>> Throttle 1/4 open<BR>>&
nbsp;Crank for 5 seconds<BR>> Pump throttle&
nbsp;one time and hold at 1/4 open<BR>>
Continue cranking for 5 more seconds<BR>&
gt; Pump throttle one time and hold a
t 1/4 open<BR>> Continue cranking for 5
more seconds<BR>> Pump throttle one ti
me and hold at 1/4 open<BR>> Continue&n
bsp;cranking for 5 more seconds<BR>> Stop&nb
sp;cranking and let starter cool for 2&nbs
p;minutes<BR>> Crank for 5 seconds<BR>> P
ump throttle one time and hold at 1/4
open<BR>> Start playing with throttle
to find the "sweet spot"<BR>> Starts ro
ugh until I find the "sweet spot"<BR>>&
nbsp;Idles smoothly and runs up fine after
warm<BR>> <BR>> For those of you&nb
sp;who don't use a primer, do you hav
e any suggestions?<BR>I<BR>> don't know if&n
bsp;I'm giving it too much fuel or no
t enough. I don't<BR>smell<BR>> gas at
the air inlet, so I don't think 
;I'm flooding it, but I'm afraid<BR>> t
o pump too much at the beginning. &nb
sp;Do I need to just let the boost<BR
>pump<BR>> run for a while with the&nbs
p;throttle at 1/4 open to get fuel to
the jets,<BR>> or is that only go
ing to work when the engine is cranki
ng over?<BR>> <BR>> I just remembered,&nb
sp;it restarts within a couple of revoluti
ons when I<BR>> shut it down using 
;the mixture control, so fuel should be&nb
sp;reaching the<BR>> jets fairly quickly on&
nbsp;a cold start.<BR>> <BR>> Thanks,<BR>>&
nbsp;<BR>> Daniel Snow<BR>> RV-9A, 1 week
to SnF, 2 weeks to inspection<BR>>&nbs
p;<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>
========================
sp; - The 
= the many List utilities such as t
========================
========================
sp; - NEW 
p;content now also available via the Web&n
========================
===============<BR></P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley |
Hi,
I am trying to find a larger pulley (4.25 inch)for a 60 amp alternator (part
#14185). The pulley part number per my paperwork is 14087007TAY, a GM part
number for a 70's Camaro pulley that goes on the air pump.
Thanks,
Dale
Do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley |
Dale,
I have 4" alluminum pulley. Come by the hangar tomorrow.
Eddy Fernandez
RV 9A
105 hours TT
Hope to see alot of RV's at Sun n Fun next week!
-----Original Message-----
From: dale1rv6@comcast.net
Sent: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 8:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley
Hi,
I am trying to find a larger pulley (4.25 inch)for a 60 amp alternator (part
#14185). The pulley part number per my paperwork is 14087007TAY, a GM part
number for a 70's Camaro pulley that goes on the air pump.
Thanks,
Dale
Do not archive
________________________________________________________________________
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley |
Hi Dale,
The large pulley - small pulley pro and con discussion has past by here
more than once.
I have a 3 1/2" pulley on my 60 amp alternator. This was not my choice, it
came to me that way. It grazes the cowling on my RV6A and I'm sure that in
short order there will be a need for some glass repair and paint.
I would change it back if that could be done. In this particular case that
is not an easy option.
My past experiences during the sport racing phase of my past life tells me
that there is little or no cause for worry about high rev damage to this
type of alternator. We ran many of these units at well over 16,000 rpm
without ever playing the change pulley game. The potential HP saving was not
sufficiently there to recapture and component failure was never an issue.
I for one definitely would not have had the larger diameter pulley by
choice.
This opinion was not requsted, just offered.
Jim in Kelowna - waiting for the new governor to arrive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 5:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley
>
> Hi,
> I am trying to find a larger pulley (4.25 inch)for a 60 amp alternator
> (part
> #14185). The pulley part number per my paperwork is 14087007TAY, a GM part
> number for a 70's Camaro pulley that goes on the air pump.
>
> Thanks,
> Dale
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley |
Thanks Jim, I do appreciate your experience on this!
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley
Hi Dale,
The large pulley - small pulley pro and con discussion has past by here
more than once.
I have a 3 1/2" pulley on my 60 amp alternator. This was not my choice, it
came to me that way. It grazes the cowling on my RV6A and I'm sure that in
short order there will be a need for some glass repair and paint.
I would change it back if that could be done. In this particular case that
is not an easy option.
My past experiences during the sport racing phase of my past life tells me
that there is little or no cause for worry about high rev damage to this
type of alternator. We ran many of these units at well over 16,000 rpm
without ever playing the change pulley game. The potential HP saving was not
sufficiently there to recapture and component failure was never an issue.
I for one definitely would not have had the larger diameter pulley by
choice.
This opinion was not requsted, just offered.
Jim in Kelowna - waiting for the new governor to arrive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 5:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley
>
> Hi,
> I am trying to find a larger pulley (4.25 inch)for a 60 amp alternator
> (part
> #14185). The pulley part number per my paperwork is 14087007TAY, a GM part
> number for a 70's Camaro pulley that goes on the air pump.
>
> Thanks,
> Dale
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley |
Dale Walter wrote:
>
>Thanks Jim, I do appreciate your experience on this!
>Dale
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
>Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 10:34 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley
>
>
>Hi Dale,
>
>The large pulley - small pulley pro and con discussion has past by here
>more than once.
>
>I have a 3 1/2" pulley on my 60 amp alternator. This was not my choice, it
>came to me that way. It grazes the cowling on my RV6A and I'm sure that in
>short order there will be a need for some glass repair and paint.
>I would change it back if that could be done. In this particular case that
>is not an easy option.
>My past experiences during the sport racing phase of my past life tells me
>that there is little or no cause for worry about high rev damage to this
>type of alternator. We ran many of these units at well over 16,000 rpm
>without ever playing the change pulley game. The potential HP saving was not
>
>sufficiently there to recapture and component failure was never an issue.
>
>I for one definitely would not have had the larger diameter pulley by
>choice.
>
> This opinion was not requsted, just offered.
>
>Jim in Kelowna - waiting for the new governor to arrive.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6@comcast.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 5:52 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Need 4.25 inch alternator pulley
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi,
>>I am trying to find a larger pulley (4.25 inch)for a 60 amp alternator
>>(part
>>#14185). The pulley part number per my paperwork is 14087007TAY, a GM part
>>number for a 70's Camaro pulley that goes on the air pump.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Dale
>>
>>Do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>I have been using the same small stock pully for 18 years now with no problems
on my Nippon
>
>
alternator.
Jerry
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Suggested stops Sacramento - Oshkosh |
In a message dated 4/12/2007 3:07:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rsuffoletto@starstream.net writes:
I am planning to fly to OSH from the Sacramento area for the first time
this year. Just wondered if anyone had a favorite fuel/food/overnight stop along
the route. I plan to take my time and see some of the country along the way.
===================================================
Richard-
If you are into staying indoors (hotel) I would recommend Worthington, MN
(southwest corner of the state). The Holiday Inn is close by and will come
pick you up. They have an excellent restaurant inside. Also North Platte, NE
was good although the hotels are a little farther away from the airport.
If you want to camp, I've stayed at Mitchell, SD before and enjoyed it very
much.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 840hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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