Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:31 AM - FOR SALE (Arthur Zuranski)
2. 07:28 AM - Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (glen matejcek)
3. 08:34 AM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Kevin Horton)
4. 08:34 AM - RVs and Greenhouse Gasses (george.mueller@aurora.org)
5. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
6. 08:56 AM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Tim Bryan)
7. 09:17 AM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
8. 09:41 AM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Tim Bryan)
9. 10:43 AM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (linn Walters)
10. 11:29 AM - Re: RVs and Greenhouse Gasses (Ron Lee)
11. 12:51 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
12. 02:00 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Tim Bryan)
13. 03:07 PM - Re: RVs and Greenhouse Gasses (Jeff Point)
14. 04:09 PM - Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Bob C.)
15. 04:17 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Darrell Reiley)
16. 04:31 PM - Re: RV-7 engine/prop options ()
17. 04:53 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
18. 05:07 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Tim Bryan)
19. 05:32 PM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (Jerry Springer)
20. 05:36 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
21. 05:49 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Jerry Springer)
22. 05:54 PM - Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
23. 06:01 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
24. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
25. 06:30 PM - Fuel dripping down carbureator at idle cutoff (T.C. Chang)
26. 06:42 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Darrell Reiley)
27. 06:45 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Darrell Reiley)
28. 06:54 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
29. 06:57 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
30. 07:04 PM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (linn Walters)
31. 07:09 PM - Re: Fuel dripping down carbureator at idle cutoff (Charlie England)
32. 07:23 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Darrell Reiley)
33. 07:29 PM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Ron Lee)
34. 08:01 PM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Charlie England)
35. 08:01 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
36. 09:04 PM - Looking for advice--final update (Dan Ross)
37. 09:25 PM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Stein Bruch)
38. 11:09 PM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (Reuven Silberman)
Message 1
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RV-8A "Quick Build" project. Most work completed on wings, fuselage &
empennage. You select & add engine, prop, instruments & avionics of
choice. $31,000. azuransk@tampabay.rr.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Hi Carl-
Since you asked....
Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than a 4,
or probably a 9.
I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
control whereas a nose dragger will not.
If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges are a way
of life for you.
WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro world and
figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they are
properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's shoes
that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro world,
this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In your
case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your prosthesis.
This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone else.
Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly the
plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake lever
mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would operate
both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as opposed
to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the 'good
foot' operate both brakes.
In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of enough
mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel available,
but they are starting points.
For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built with a
selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system and one
separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right brake you
apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at the
moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if you
like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find this
an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick such
that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is unlocked.
Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and Ldg. Hard
against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
configuration has also been used in the past.
Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the throttle
side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or could
operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right brake. The
latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when things
start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full use of
the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would mean
either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be fashioned
that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on the
throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage would
likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-looking
lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting the
locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you, but
would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such that
returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This would pay
off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic aircraft
and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
> <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
> with a
> selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system
> and one
> separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
> brake you
> apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at
> the
> moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if
> you
> like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
>
British aircraft used this sort of system for many years in the
middle part of last century. But, most aircraft that I am aware of
that used this system had air operated power brakes, which solved the
mechanical advantage problem. If the rudder pedals were centred,
each brake would receive the same pressure. If the rudder pedals
were deflected a bit, one brake would get more pressure than the
other. If full rudder was applied, only that wheel would get brake
pressure. I did one flight in a Hawker Hunter with such a system.
It took some getting used to, but it did provide quite effective
control.
The DHC Chipmunk has a somewhat similar system. It has a long hand
brake lever which was operated by the pilot's left hand. The brake
pressure is distributed by a valve that is controlled by rudder
pressure, similar to the system described in the previous paragraph.
I've also got one flight in a Chipmunk, and it too appeared to be an
effective system, but it was a bit strange to taxi with, as it
doesn't have tail wheel steering - the tail wheel is free castoring.
To taxi, you pull on the hand brake to apply one or two clicks (it
works somewhat like the typical parking brake in European or Japanese
cars). You taxi with the brake partially applied - i.e. you taxi
while slightly dragging the brakes. This allows you to steer by
moving the rudder pedals, which controls where the brake pressure went.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 4
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| Subject: | RVs and Greenhouse Gasses |
My thanks to the three guys who responded to my newbie RV questions (7A vs
8A, which should I build, and priming fiberglass).
I think the secret for the future is to couch my questions in the context
of greenhouse gasses, ecosystems and global warming. E.g., is the 7A more
like a Prius, Jetta Diesel, or Crown Victoria?
I did the demo flight at Oshkosh last year in the 7A, and sat in the 8A.
In my mind the advantage of the 7A is more panel space for IFR flying,
although it was pretty clear that being an instrument platform was not a
primary design objective--kind of like my old Grumman cheetah as an
instrument flyer. Plus it is an all matched hole kit, which I think would
be nice. However by the time I get done you won't need much panel space
for instruments with the advances in EFIS and all. The advantage of the
8A was more room for me, and I suspect it might be a bit more fun to fly.
I don't care that much about being able to interact with my passengers.
I did hear that liberals like the 7A better....
Would anyone who has flown both the 7 and 8 compare the overall flying
experience?
George in Milwaukee
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Hi Glen;
Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very simple
modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or 9 rudder
pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and makes it a
closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there isn't room
going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar. Then
I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube at
midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot for
pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping by using
them together or independently for differential braking. Do you think this
could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger and
preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and occasional
roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my kids
scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building things (RC).
I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to make
sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with flutter or
something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks again for
your advice. Regards Carl
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Office: 803.648.3407
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell@gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Hi Carl-
Since you asked....
Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than a 4,
or probably a 9.
I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
control whereas a nose dragger will not.
If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges are a way
of life for you.
WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro world and
figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they are
properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's shoes
that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro world,
this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In your
case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your prosthesis.
This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone else.
Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly the
plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake lever
mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would operate
both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as opposed
to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the 'good
foot' operate both brakes.
In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of enough
mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel available,
but they are starting points.
For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built with a
selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system and one
separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right brake you
apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at the
moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if you
like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find this
an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick such
that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is unlocked.
Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and Ldg. Hard
against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
configuration has also been used in the past.
Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the throttle
side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or could
operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right brake. The
latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when things
start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full use of
the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would mean
either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be fashioned
that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on the
throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage would
likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-looking
lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting the
locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you, but
would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such that
returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This would pay
off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic aircraft
and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated. These
are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and push
to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need to
interfere with the standard foot brakes.
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAMCB
1
paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
They make these with two handles as well.
Good luck to you
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Hi Glen;
>
> Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very simple
> modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> rudder
> pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and makes it a
> closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there isn't
> room
> going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar. Then
> I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube at
> midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot for
> pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping by
> using
> them together or independently for differential braking. Do you think
> this
> could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger and
> preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> occasional
> roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my kids
> scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building things
> (RC).
> I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to make
> sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with flutter or
> something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks again
> for
> your advice. Regards Carl
>
> Carl W Bell
> New Venture Consulting
> Office: 803.648.3407
> Mobile: 803.640.2760
> www.newventureconsulting.com
> carlbell@gforcecable.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> To: RV-List Digest Server
> Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Hi Carl-
>
> Since you asked....
>
> Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than a 4,
> or probably a 9.
>
> I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> control whereas a nose dragger will not.
>
> If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges are a
> way
> of life for you.
>
> WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro world and
> figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they are
> properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's shoes
> that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro world,
> this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In your
> case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your prosthesis.
> This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone else.
> Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly the
> plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
>
> There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake lever
> mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would operate
> both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> opposed
> to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
>
> Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the 'good
> foot' operate both brakes.
>
> In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of enough
> mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel available,
> but they are starting points.
>
> For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built with a
> selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system and
> one
> separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right brake
> you
> apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at the
> moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if you
> like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
>
> Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find this
> an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick such
> that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is unlocked.
> Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> Hard
> against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> configuration has also been used in the past.
>
> Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the throttle
> side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or could
> operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right brake.
> The
> latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when things
> start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full use of
> the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would mean
> either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
>
> As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be fashioned
> that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on the
> throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage would
> likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> looking
> lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting the
> locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you, but
> would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
>
> A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such that
> returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This would pay
> off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
>
> Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic aircraft
> and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Tim,
Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard locking
parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the bottom of
the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated. These
are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and push
to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need to
interfere with the standard foot brakes.
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAMCB
1
paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
They make these with two handles as well.
Good luck to you
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Hi Glen;
>
> Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very simple
> modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> rudder
> pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and makes it a
> closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there isn't
> room
> going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar. Then
> I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube at
> midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot for
> pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping by
> using
> them together or independently for differential braking. Do you think
> this
> could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger and
> preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> occasional
> roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my kids
> scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building things
> (RC).
> I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to make
> sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with flutter or
> something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks again
> for
> your advice. Regards Carl
>
> Carl W Bell
> New Venture Consulting
> Office: 803.648.3407
> Mobile: 803.640.2760
> www.newventureconsulting.com
> carlbell@gforcecable.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> To: RV-List Digest Server
> Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Hi Carl-
>
> Since you asked....
>
> Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than a 4,
> or probably a 9.
>
> I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> control whereas a nose dragger will not.
>
> If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges are a
> way
> of life for you.
>
> WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro world and
> figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they are
> properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's shoes
> that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro world,
> this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In your
> case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your prosthesis.
> This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone else.
> Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly the
> plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
>
> There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake lever
> mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would operate
> both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> opposed
> to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
>
> Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the 'good
> foot' operate both brakes.
>
> In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of enough
> mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel available,
> but they are starting points.
>
> For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built with a
> selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system and
> one
> separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right brake
> you
> apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at the
> moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if you
> like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
>
> Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find this
> an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick such
> that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is unlocked.
> Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> Hard
> against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> configuration has also been used in the past.
>
> Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the throttle
> side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or could
> operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right brake.
> The
> latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when things
> start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full use of
> the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would mean
> either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
>
> As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be fashioned
> that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on the
> throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage would
> likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> looking
> lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting the
> locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you, but
> would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
>
> A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such that
> returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This would pay
> off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
>
> Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic aircraft
> and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Carl,
Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better. They
are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward depending
on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking. Still
easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
two thirds of the way down the page.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard locking
> parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the bottom of
> the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
> These
> are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
> push
> to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need to
> interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> CB
> 1
>
> paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
>
> They make these with two handles as well.
>
> Good luck to you
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > Hi Glen;
> >
> > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very simple
> > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > rudder
> > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and makes it
> a
> > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there isn't
> > room
> > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
> Then
> > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube at
> > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot for
> > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping by
> > using
> > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you think
> > this
> > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger and
> > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > occasional
> > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my kids
> > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building things
> > (RC).
> > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
> make
> > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with flutter
> or
> > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks again
> > for
> > your advice. Regards Carl
> >
> > Carl W Bell
> > New Venture Consulting
> > Office: 803.648.3407
> > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > Hi Carl-
> >
> > Since you asked....
> >
> > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than a
> 4,
> > or probably a 9.
> >
> > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> >
> > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges are a
> > way
> > of life for you.
> >
> > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro world
> and
> > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they are
> > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's shoes
> > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> world,
> > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
> your
> > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your prosthesis.
> > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone else.
> > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly the
> > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> >
> > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
> lever
> > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> operate
> > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> > opposed
> > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
> >
> > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the 'good
> > foot' operate both brakes.
> >
> > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of enough
> > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> available,
> > but they are starting points.
> >
> > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built with
> a
> > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system and
> > one
> > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right brake
> > you
> > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at the
> > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if you
> > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> >
> > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
> this
> > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
> such
> > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > Hard
> > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> > configuration has also been used in the past.
> >
> > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the throttle
> > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or could
> > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right brake.
> > The
> > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when things
> > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full use of
> > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would mean
> > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> >
> > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be fashioned
> > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on the
> > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage would
> > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> > looking
> > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting the
> > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you, but
> > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
> >
> > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
> that
> > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This would
> pay
> > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> >
> > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic aircraft
> > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> >
> > glen matejcek
> > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
Garry wrote:
> I spent a full day walking around the vendor booths at Sun N'Fun
> yesterday, and found some interesting sales pitches. A few of the
> items actually caught my interest............Air Wolf air/oil separator,
Save your money. If you have a problem with oil on the belly, try
lowering the oil level one or two quarts. If it's due to blow by ....
you need to do a top .... the rings are shot. Some oil may be going
past the valves too. If you decide to waste your money .... it's a
cover-up for things that are wrong ..... stick the 'return' hose down in
a can that you can empty ..... not back to the engione.
> GAMI fuel injectors,
Good idea .... but there's an 'experimental' version out there that will
do the same thing at less cost.
Linn
do not archive
> and 4 into 1 Exhaust systems. I'd appreciate any feedback from the
> group as to the value of these items, if indeed I should even consider
> them, and what real world experience folks might have with using them.
>
> Garry Stout
> RV-7A IO-360
> Tampa, Florida
>
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Re: RVs and Greenhouse Gasses |
This conservative prefers the 7A.
Ron Lee
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: george.mueller@aurora.org
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 9:32 AM
Subject: RV-List: RVs and Greenhouse Gasses
My thanks to the three guys who responded to my newbie RV questions
(7A vs 8A, which should I build, and priming fiberglass).
I think the secret for the future is to couch my questions in the
context of greenhouse gasses, ecosystems and global warming. E.g., is
the 7A more like a Prius, Jetta Diesel, or Crown Victoria?
I did the demo flight at Oshkosh last year in the 7A, and sat in the
8A. In my mind the advantage of the 7A is more panel space for IFR
flying, although it was pretty clear that being an instrument platform
was not a primary design objective--kind of like my old Grumman cheetah
as an instrument flyer. Plus it is an all matched hole kit, which I
think would be nice. However by the time I get done you won't need much
panel space for instruments with the advances in EFIS and all. The
advantage of the 8A was more room for me, and I suspect it might be a
bit more fun to fly. I don't care that much about being able to
interact with my passengers.
I did hear that liberals like the 7A better....
Would anyone who has flown both the 7 and 8 compare the overall flying
experience?
George in Milwaukee
Message 11
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Tim,
I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie downs
and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in place
now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier that
flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel parking
brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Carl,
Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better. They
are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward depending
on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking. Still
easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
two thirds of the way down the page.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard locking
> parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the bottom of
> the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
> These
> are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
> push
> to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need to
> interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> CB
> 1
>
> paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
>
> They make these with two handles as well.
>
> Good luck to you
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > Hi Glen;
> >
> > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very simple
> > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > rudder
> > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and makes it
> a
> > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there isn't
> > room
> > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
> Then
> > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube at
> > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot for
> > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping by
> > using
> > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you think
> > this
> > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger and
> > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > occasional
> > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my kids
> > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building things
> > (RC).
> > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
> make
> > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with flutter
> or
> > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks again
> > for
> > your advice. Regards Carl
> >
> > Carl W Bell
> > New Venture Consulting
> > Office: 803.648.3407
> > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > Hi Carl-
> >
> > Since you asked....
> >
> > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than a
> 4,
> > or probably a 9.
> >
> > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> >
> > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges are a
> > way
> > of life for you.
> >
> > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro world
> and
> > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they are
> > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's shoes
> > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> world,
> > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
> your
> > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your prosthesis.
> > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone else.
> > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly the
> > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> >
> > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
> lever
> > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> operate
> > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> > opposed
> > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
> >
> > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the 'good
> > foot' operate both brakes.
> >
> > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of enough
> > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> available,
> > but they are starting points.
> >
> > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built with
> a
> > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system and
> > one
> > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right brake
> > you
> > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at the
> > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if you
> > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> >
> > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
> this
> > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
> such
> > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > Hard
> > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> > configuration has also been used in the past.
> >
> > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the throttle
> > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or could
> > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right brake.
> > The
> > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when things
> > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full use of
> > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would mean
> > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> >
> > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be fashioned
> > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on the
> > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage would
> > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> > looking
> > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting the
> > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you, but
> > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
> >
> > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
> that
> > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This would
> pay
> > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> >
> > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic aircraft
> > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> >
> > glen matejcek
> > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Hi Carl,
Do Not Archive
I have an RV-6. I agree it takes a lot more effort on the pedals (dancing)
to fly tail wheel. I have lots of tail wheel time and am comfortable, but
may build a nose wheel the next time. (RV-10 <bg>)
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 2:50 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
> previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie downs
> and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in
> place
> now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier that
> flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel parking
> brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Carl,
>
> Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better. They
> are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward
> depending
> on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
> handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking. Still
> easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
>
> http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
>
> two thirds of the way down the page.
>
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard
> locking
> > parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the bottom
> of
> > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
> > These
> > are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
> > push
> > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need to
> > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> >
> http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> > CB
> > 1
> >
> > paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
> >
> > They make these with two handles as well.
> >
> > Good luck to you
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Glen;
> > >
> > > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very
> simple
> > > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > > rudder
> > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and makes
> it
> > a
> > > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there isn't
> > > room
> > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
> > Then
> > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube at
> > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot
> for
> > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping by
> > > using
> > > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you think
> > > this
> > > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger
> and
> > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > > occasional
> > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my
> kids
> > > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building things
> > > (RC).
> > > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
> > make
> > > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with
> flutter
> > or
> > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks
> again
> > > for
> > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > >
> > > Carl W Bell
> > > New Venture Consulting
> > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> > >
> <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Hi Carl-
> > >
> > > Since you asked....
> > >
> > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than a
> > 4,
> > > or probably a 9.
> > >
> > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > >
> > > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> > > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges are
> a
> > > way
> > > of life for you.
> > >
> > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro world
> > and
> > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they
> are
> > > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's
> shoes
> > > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> > world,
> > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
> > your
> > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your prosthesis.
> > > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone else.
> > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly
> the
> > > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> > >
> > > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
> > lever
> > > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> > operate
> > > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> > > opposed
> > > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
> > >
> > > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the
> 'good
> > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > >
> > > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of enough
> > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> > available,
> > > but they are starting points.
> > >
> > > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
> with
> > a
> > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system
> and
> > > one
> > > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
> brake
> > > you
> > > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at
> the
> > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if
> you
> > > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> > >
> > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
> > this
> > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
> > such
> > > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > > Hard
> > > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> > > configuration has also been used in the past.
> > >
> > > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the
> throttle
> > > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or
> could
> > > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right brake.
> > > The
> > > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when
> things
> > > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full use
> of
> > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would mean
> > > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> > >
> > > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be
> fashioned
> > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on
> the
> > > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage would
> > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> > > looking
> > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting the
> > > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you, but
> > > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
> > >
> > > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
> > that
> > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This would
> > pay
> > > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> > >
> > > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic aircraft
> > > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> > >
> > > glen matejcek
> > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RVs and Greenhouse Gasses |
The real conservatives all built 3s, 4s and 6s, but they're mostly
obsolete now (the builders, not the planes.)
On a serious note- I built a 6, and am now building an 8. I find that
most of my flying is alone. The 8 does give each occupant a bit more
room (especially up front) although the back can get a little cozy for
bigger guys. If you do any formation flying, the 8 is a better platform
for that. I believe it is also more fun, but that is very subjective.
Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 tail done
Milwaukee
do not archive
> *
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Hi Carl,
I bought a RV8 project from a fellow in Galesburg, IL who has an
prosthetic leg . . . don't know if above or below the knee. He had
built an flew two other RV8s before this one with no modification that
I'm aware of.
I'll forward your email to him and hopefully he can help?
Regards,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 - Finishing - N83RC
On 4/22/07, Carl Bell <carlbell@gforcecable.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>
> I am new to the list and starting the journey to build an RV but could use
> some advice before I get going. I have a bit of a dilemma which I need to
> work out before I order more than the RV empennage kit. I am a left leg
> above the knee amputee and I believe I need to work with an instructor to
> figure out the plane for me to build and modify as appropriate. I can fly
> standard Cherokee's, Arrow's, etc by using my good leg for either the left
> or right rudder pedal as required and the hand brake if I need to hit both
> brakes at once. Of course the Piper line has nose wheel steering and I find
> this very easy for me to accomplish. I am just not sure what direction I
> should pursue for the RV and feel I could use some flight instruction to try
> and figure it out. I know I will need a hand brake to hit both brakes
> simultaneously, and I'm thinking I will get more positive steering control
> on an RV by going with a tail dragger vs a nose wheel version and trying the
> differential toe braking. Any help you all can offer would be sincerely
> appreciated. If there are any AK's amputees flying RV's that can clue me in,
> it would terrific. I'm retiring next month and can work on this full time.
> I was commercial-instrument rated, but now have had to revert to private.
> Thanks Carl
>
>
> Carl W Bell
>
> New Venture Consulting
>
> Office: 803.648.3407
>
> Mobile: 803.640.2760
>
> www.newventureconsulting.com
>
> carlbell@gforcecable.com
>
>
> - The RV-List Email Forum -
> browse
> Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
> much more:
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> the Web Forums!
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
I have a friend on the Taylor Airport, "Pegleg" as he
likes to be called, that has a dual lever brake system
on the RV-7A. I've flown with him and the system works
great!
Darrell
--- Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com> wrote:
> <n616tb@btsapps.com>
>
> Hi Carl,
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> I have an RV-6. I agree it takes a lot more effort
> on the pedals (dancing)
> to fly tail wheel. I have lots of tail wheel time
> and am comfortable, but
> may build a nose wheel the next time. (RV-10 <bg>)
>
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 2:50 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > I think you are right, I found those on the site
> from what you had
> > previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking
> brakes or just tie downs
> > and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a
> safe conversion in
> > place
> > now, I may have to play with it a little, but this
> should be easier that
> > flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and
> pulling the panel parking
> > brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW.
> Carl
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> >
> > Carl,
> >
> > Now that I think about this, a dual handle control
> would be better. They
> > are two handles side by side that both pull either
> back or forward
> > depending
> > on how you install it. I was originally thinking
> of space, but with two
> > handles you could pull them both back at once for
> regular braking. Still
> > easy to install, etc but about they are about an
> inch wider.
> >
> >
>
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
> >
> > two thirds of the way down the page.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > >
> > > Tim,
> > >
> > > Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll
> just use a standard
> > locking
> > > parking brake cylinder for both and of course
> for parking on the bottom
> > of
> > > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > >
> > > You might consider a push-pull hand lever that
> is hydraulic operated.
> > > These
> > > are quite common in sand rails for brake
> turning. Pull to go left and
> > > push
> > > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to
> install, and does not need to
> > > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> > >
> >
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> > > CB
> > > 1
> > >
> > > paste the link back together if it is on two
> lines.
> > >
> > > They make these with two handles as well.
> > >
> > > Good luck to you
> > > Tim
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > > >
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Glen;
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for all of your input; you have some
> really great ideas,
> > > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I
> can make this a very
> > simple
> > > > modification by using a cable and pulley in
> the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > > > rudder
> > > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder
> pedals together, and makes
> > it
> > > a
> > > > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty
> standard. If there isn't
> > > > room
> > > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the
> pulley toward the spar.
> > > Then
> > > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my
> side and weld a tube at
> > > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop
> over the top of my foot
> > for
> > > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand
> brakes for stopping by
> > > > using
> > > > them together or independently for
> differential braking. Do you think
> > > > this
> > > > could do the trick? Most are saying I should
> go with a nose dragger
> > and
> > > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I
> hate to give up and
> > > > occasional
> > > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for
> X country to visit my
> > kids
> > > > scattered about the US and of course I love
> flying and building things
> > > > (RC).
> > > > I will draw this up and send it to Van with
> all the Caveats' just to
> > > make
> > > > sure that tying the pedals together won't
> create a problem with
> > flutter
> > > or
> > > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus
> tail wheel? Thanks
> > again
> > > > for
> > > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > > >
> > > > Carl W Bell
> > > > New Venture Consulting
> > > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> > > >
> > <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Carl-
> > > >
> > > > Since you asked....
> > > >
> > > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to
> make system mods than a
> > > 4,
> > > > or probably a 9.
> > > >
> > > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give
> you positive steering
> > > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > > >
> > > > If you are not already a conventional gear
> aviator, this may pose an
> > > > additional challenge, although I'm guessing
> additional challenges are
> > a
> > > > way
> > > > of life for you.
> > > >
> > > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from
> the serious acro world
> > > and
> > > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe
> locks, or whatever they
> > are
> > > > properly called. These are fittings on the
> bottoms of the racer's
> > shoes
> > > > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle
> pedals. In the acro
> > > world,
> > > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders
> while doing hard acro. In
> > > your
> > > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder
> pedal with your prosthesis.
> > > > This should afford you the same rudder control
> ability as anyone else.
> > > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it
> would allow you to fly
> > the
> > > > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> > > >
> > > > There are aircraft in the world that use a
> bicycle-style hand brake
> > > lever
> > > > mounted on the control stick. With such an
> arrangement, you would
> > > operate
> > > > both brakes without having to do a major grip
> switch on landing, as
> > > > opposed
> > > > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson
> bar type arrangement.
> > > >
> > > > Another option would be to have a 'normal'
> master cylinder for the
> > 'good
> > > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > > >
> > > > In each of the above, there are potential
> issues with a lack of enough
> > > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate
> braking with the travel
> > > available,
> > > > but they are starting points.
> > > >
> > > > For differential braking, there have been
> aircraft that were built
> > with
> > > a
> > > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the
> rudder control system
> > and
> > > > one
> > > > separate brake master cylinder. With such a
> system, to get right
> > brake
> > > > you
> > > > apply right rudder and then operate the brake
> lever. I'm sorry, at
> > the
> > > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had
> that arrangement, but if
> > you
> > > > like I could pester some geezers I know to see
> if they recall.
> > > >
> > > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I
> suspect you would find
> > > this
> > > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW
> lock to the control stick
> > > such
> > > > that when the stick is full aft against the
> stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock
> the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > > > Hard
> > > > against the stop would unlock it for tight
> ground maneuvering. This
> > > > configuration has also been used in the past.
> > > >
> > > > Another option for brake power would be a
> separate lever on the
> > throttle
> > > > side. This lever could operate both brakes as
> outlined above, or
> > could
> > > > operate the left brake while your right foot
> operated the right brake.
> > > > The
> > > > latter configuration could be cause for
> confusion and error when
> > things
> > > > start happening quickly. Either arrangement
> would allow for full use
> > of
> > > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as
> the brake, but would mean
> > > > either brake or throttle, which is of course
> sub-optimal.
> > > >
> > > > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a
> system could be
> > fashioned
> > > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or
> helicopter type twist grip on
> > the
> > > > throttle lever for brake operation. Again,
> mechanical advantage would
> > > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would
> be to have a throttle-
> > > > looking
> > > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the
> brakes and twisting the
> > > > locking grip operated the throttle. This
> could work well for you, but
> > > > would be a human factors trap for anyone else
> who flew in that seat.
> > > >
> > > > A separate design goal might be that whatever
> you do, you do it such
> > > that
> > > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is
> relatively easy. This would
> > > pay
> > > > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, you might do a little research and
> find an aerobatic aircraft
> > > > and/or school equipped with the foot latches
> and give them a try.
> > > >
> > > > glen matejcek
> > > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintenance
and fiddling in the long run. There are TRUE BELEIVER and they
will tell you that there Mazda or Subaru is the greatest thing but
when you really crunch the numbers it does not add up. However
if you want to be DIFFERENT, for the sake of being unique than
by all means. What is the resale on auto engine RV's? What is
the resale on a Lyc powered RV? Huge difference. Nuff Said.
Sam James makes short cowls now.
Yes you can do mild aerobatics with the extended hub. Going
back to your alternative engine question, forget hydraulic constant
speed pops and frankly aerobatics if you went that route.
I could write a book on your questions but make it simple for
your self, FOLLOW THE PLANS: LYC+HARTZELL or SENSENICH.
Yes you must fly within limits. The extended hartzell is 3.8 g's
If you know what you are doing 3 gs is enough to do acro. My
old RV-4 had the same prop and logged +1000 hours, a large
part looping and rolling with no issues.
Charlie there is piles of info on the topic do some research, good luck
George
>From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>Subject: RV-List: RV-7 engine/prop options
>
>I have a couple of questions about engine choices.
>
>If you have used an 'alternative' engine builder to build your
>experimental Lyc engine, what was your experience (positive or
>negative)?
>
>and,
>
>Has anyone on the list used an extended hub Hartzell prop (as needed
for
>some of the James cowls)? If so, do you feel comfortable doing mild
>'RV-acro' with the prop? The model I have available is an HC-F2YR hub
>with F7666-4 blades. I'm willing to deal with the cowl issues but I'm
>not willing to give up the occasional loop & roll.
>
>Thanks, Charlie ceengland@bellsouth.net
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
One thing to keep in mind is that the parking brake by Matco that is
commonly used on RV's is for holding pressure that already has been
applied, IE it is an open and close valve not a pressure piston for
stopping, so you would have to use something to apply the pressure.
Dan
N289DT
RV10E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Tim,
I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie
downs
and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in
place
now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier that
flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel parking
brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Carl,
Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better.
They
are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward
depending
on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking.
Still
easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
two thirds of the way down the page.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard
locking
> parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the
bottom of
> the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
> These
> are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
> push
> to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need
to
> interfere with the standard foot brakes.
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=J
AM
> CB
> 1
>
> paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
>
> They make these with two handles as well.
>
> Good luck to you
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> >
> > Hi Glen;
> >
> > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very
simple
> > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or
9
> > rudder
> > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and
makes it
> a
> > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there
isn't
> > room
> > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
> Then
> > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube
at
> > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot
for
> > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping
by
> > using
> > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you
think
> > this
> > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger
and
> > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > occasional
> > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my
kids
> > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building
things
> > (RC).
> > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
> make
> > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with
flutter
> or
> > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks
again
> > for
> > your advice. Regards Carl
> >
> > Carl W Bell
> > New Venture Consulting
> > Office: 803.648.3407
> > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
matejcek
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Hi Carl-
> >
> > Since you asked....
> >
> > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than
a
> 4,
> > or probably a 9.
> >
> > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> >
> > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges
are a
> > way
> > of life for you.
> >
> > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro
world
> and
> > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they
are
> > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's
shoes
> > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> world,
> > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
> your
> > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your
prosthesis.
> > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone
else.
> > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly
the
> > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> >
> > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
> lever
> > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> operate
> > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> > opposed
> > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
> >
> > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the
'good
> > foot' operate both brakes.
> >
> > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of
enough
> > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> available,
> > but they are starting points.
> >
> > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
with
> a
> > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system
and
> > one
> > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
brake
> > you
> > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at
the
> > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if
you
> > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> >
> > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
> this
> > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
> such
> > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is
unlocked.
> > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and
Ldg.
> > Hard
> > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> > configuration has also been used in the past.
> >
> > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the
throttle
> > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or
could
> > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right
brake.
> > The
> > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when
things
> > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full
use of
> > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would
mean
> > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> >
> > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be
fashioned
> > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on
the
> > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage
would
> > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> > looking
> > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting
the
> > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you,
but
> > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
> >
> > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
> that
> > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This
would
> pay
> > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> >
> > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic
aircraft
> > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> >
> > glen matejcek
> > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Easy enough with the two lever hand controls.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:53 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> One thing to keep in mind is that the parking brake by Matco that is
> commonly used on RV's is for holding pressure that already has been
> applied, IE it is an open and close valve not a pressure piston for
> stopping, so you would have to use something to apply the pressure.
> Dan
> N289DT
> RV10E
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 3:50 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
> previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie
> downs
> and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in
> place
> now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier that
> flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel parking
> brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Carl,
>
> Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better.
> They
> are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward
> depending
> on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
> handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking.
> Still
> easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
>
> http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
>
> two thirds of the way down the page.
>
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard
> locking
> > parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the
> bottom of
> > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
> > These
> > are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
> > push
> > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need
> to
> > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> >
> http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=J
> AM
> > CB
> > 1
> >
> > paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
> >
> > They make these with two handles as well.
> >
> > Good luck to you
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> > >
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > >
> > > Hi Glen;
> > >
> > > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very
> simple
> > > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or
> 9
> > > rudder
> > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and
> makes it
> > a
> > > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there
> isn't
> > > room
> > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
> > Then
> > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube
> at
> > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot
> for
> > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping
> by
> > > using
> > > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you
> think
> > > this
> > > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger
> and
> > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > > occasional
> > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my
> kids
> > > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building
> things
> > > (RC).
> > > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
> > make
> > > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with
> flutter
> > or
> > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks
> again
> > > for
> > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > >
> > > Carl W Bell
> > > New Venture Consulting
> > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
> matejcek
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> > >
> <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Hi Carl-
> > >
> > > Since you asked....
> > >
> > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than
> a
> > 4,
> > > or probably a 9.
> > >
> > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > >
> > > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> > > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges
> are a
> > > way
> > > of life for you.
> > >
> > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro
> world
> > and
> > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they
> are
> > > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's
> shoes
> > > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> > world,
> > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
> > your
> > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your
> prosthesis.
> > > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone
> else.
> > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly
> the
> > > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> > >
> > > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
> > lever
> > > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> > operate
> > > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> > > opposed
> > > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
> > >
> > > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the
> 'good
> > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > >
> > > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of
> enough
> > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> > available,
> > > but they are starting points.
> > >
> > > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
> with
> > a
> > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system
> and
> > > one
> > > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
> brake
> > > you
> > > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at
> the
> > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if
> you
> > > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> > >
> > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
> > this
> > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
> > such
> > > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is
> unlocked.
> > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and
> Ldg.
> > > Hard
> > > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> > > configuration has also been used in the past.
> > >
> > > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the
> throttle
> > > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or
> could
> > > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right
> brake.
> > > The
> > > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when
> things
> > > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full
> use of
> > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would
> mean
> > > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> > >
> > > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be
> fashioned
> > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on
> the
> > > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage
> would
> > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> > > looking
> > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting
> the
> > > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you,
> but
> > > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
> > >
> > > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
> > that
> > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This
> would
> > pay
> > > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> > >
> > > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic
> aircraft
> > > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> > >
> > > glen matejcek
> > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
Linn I agree with what you say about the need for an oil separator but
another way for oil to get to the bottom side of our airplanes is doing
aerobatics
with out an inverted oils system. There does not necessarily have to be
anything wrong with the engine to have oil on the bottom side.
Do not archive
linn Walters wrote:
> Garry wrote:
>
>> I spent a full day walking around the vendor booths at Sun N'Fun
>> yesterday, and found some interesting sales pitches. A few of the
>> items actually caught my interest............Air Wolf air/oil separator,
>
> Save your money. If you have a problem with oil on the belly, try
> lowering the oil level one or two quarts. If it's due to blow by ....
> you need to do a top .... the rings are shot. Some oil may be going
> past the valves too. If you decide to waste your money .... it's a
> cover-up for things that are wrong ..... stick the 'return' hose down
> in a can that you can empty ..... not back to the engione.
>
>> GAMI fuel injectors,
>
> Good idea .... but there's an 'experimental' version out there that
> will do the same thing at less cost.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>> and 4 into 1 Exhaust systems. I'd appreciate any feedback from the
>> group as to the value of these items, if indeed I should even
>> consider them, and what real world experience folks might have with
>> using them.
>>
>> Garry Stout
>> RV-7A IO-360
>> Tampa, Florida
>>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
I agree, just that you could not use the Matco valve to accomplish it,
because it is an open/close valve to hold the pressure that already has
been applied through the pedals.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Easy enough with the two lever hand controls.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:53 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
<LloydDR@wernerco.com>
>
> One thing to keep in mind is that the parking brake by Matco that is
> commonly used on RV's is for holding pressure that already has been
> applied, IE it is an open and close valve not a pressure piston for
> stopping, so you would have to use something to apply the pressure.
> Dan
> N289DT
> RV10E
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 3:50 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
> previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie
> downs
> and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in
> place
> now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier
that
> flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel
parking
> brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Carl,
>
> Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better.
> They
> are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward
> depending
> on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with
two
> handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking.
> Still
> easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
>
> http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
>
> two thirds of the way down the page.
>
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard
> locking
> > parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the
> bottom of
> > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> >
> > You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic
operated.
> > These
> > are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left
and
> > push
> > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not
need
> to
> > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> >
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=J
> AM
> > CB
> > 1
> >
> > paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
> >
> > They make these with two handles as well.
> >
> > Good luck to you
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> > >
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > >
> > > Hi Glen;
> > >
> > > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very
> simple
> > > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7
or
> 9
> > > rudder
> > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and
> makes it
> > a
> > > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there
> isn't
> > > room
> > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the
spar.
> > Then
> > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube
> at
> > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my
foot
> for
> > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping
> by
> > > using
> > > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you
> think
> > > this
> > > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose
dragger
> and
> > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > > occasional
> > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit
my
> kids
> > > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building
> things
> > > (RC).
> > > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just
to
> > make
> > > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with
> flutter
> > or
> > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks
> again
> > > for
> > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > >
> > > Carl W Bell
> > > New Venture Consulting
> > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
> matejcek
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> > >
> <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Hi Carl-
> > >
> > > Since you asked....
> > >
> > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods
than
> a
> > 4,
> > > or probably a 9.
> > >
> > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive
steering
> > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > >
> > > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose
an
> > > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges
> are a
> > > way
> > > of life for you.
> > >
> > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro
> world
> > and
> > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever
they
> are
> > > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's
> shoes
> > > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> > world,
> > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro.
In
> > your
> > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your
> prosthesis.
> > > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone
> else.
> > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to
fly
> the
> > > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> > >
> > > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand
brake
> > lever
> > > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> > operate
> > > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing,
as
> > > opposed
> > > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type
arrangement.
> > >
> > > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the
> 'good
> > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > >
> > > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of
> enough
> > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> > available,
> > > but they are starting points.
> > >
> > > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
> with
> > a
> > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control
system
> and
> > > one
> > > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
> brake
> > > you
> > > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry,
at
> the
> > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but
if
> you
> > > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> > >
> > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would
find
> > this
> > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control
stick
> > such
> > > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is
> unlocked.
> > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and
> Ldg.
> > > Hard
> > > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering.
This
> > > configuration has also been used in the past.
> > >
> > > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the
> throttle
> > > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or
> could
> > > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right
> brake.
> > > The
> > > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when
> things
> > > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full
> use of
> > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would
> mean
> > > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> > >
> > > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be
> fashioned
> > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip
on
> the
> > > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage
> would
> > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a
throttle-
> > > looking
> > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting
> the
> > > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you,
> but
> > > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that
seat.
> > >
> > > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it
such
> > that
> > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This
> would
> > pay
> > > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> > >
> > > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic
> aircraft
> > > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> > >
> > > glen matejcek
> > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
I am going to do a flight review this week for a local pilot that has
hand controls in his RV-6, Some of you may have met Carl Hays
or read the articles about him and how he designed the control system
for his RV-6. He is unable to use his legs at all.It has two control bars
that control rudder and brakes pushing both sticks forward controls
brakes, pushing left stick forward is left rudders etc. This operation
is all
done with his right hand.Technically this qualifies for a dual control
system as he does have a joystick installed on the right side and the
rudder brake bars are in the center of the airplane so if need I can
control the airplane.
Jerry
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>Easy enough with the two lever hand controls.
>Tim
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
>>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:53 PM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>>
>>
>>One thing to keep in mind is that the parking brake by Matco that is
>>commonly used on RV's is for holding pressure that already has been
>>applied, IE it is an open and close valve not a pressure piston for
>>stopping, so you would have to use something to apply the pressure.
>>Dan
>>N289DT
>>RV10E
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
>>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 3:50 PM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>>
>>
>>Tim,
>>
>>I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
>>previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie
>>downs
>>and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in
>>place
>>now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier that
>>flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel parking
>>brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>>
>>
>>Carl,
>>
>>Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better.
>>They
>>are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward
>>depending
>>on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
>>handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking.
>>Still
>>easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
>>
>>http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
>>
>>two thirds of the way down the page.
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
>>>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
>>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>>>
>>>
>>>Tim,
>>>
>>>Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard
>>>
>>>
>>locking
>>
>>
>>>parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the
>>>
>>>
>>bottom of
>>
>>
>>>the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>>>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
>>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>>>
>>>
>>>You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
>>>These
>>>are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
>>>push
>>>to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need
>>>
>>>
>>to
>>
>>
>>>interfere with the standard foot brakes.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=J
>>AM
>>
>>
>>>CB
>>>1
>>>
>>>paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
>>>
>>>They make these with two handles as well.
>>>
>>>Good luck to you
>>>Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
>>>>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
>>>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>><carlbell@gforcecable.com>
>>
>>
>>>>Hi Glen;
>>>>
>>>>Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
>>>>especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very
>>>>
>>>>
>>simple
>>
>>
>>>>modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or
>>>>
>>>>
>>9
>>
>>
>>>>rudder
>>>>pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and
>>>>
>>>>
>>makes it
>>
>>
>>>a
>>>
>>>
>>>>closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there
>>>>
>>>>
>>isn't
>>
>>
>>>>room
>>>>going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>Then
>>>
>>>
>>>>I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube
>>>>
>>>>
>>at
>>
>>
>>>>midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot
>>>>
>>>>
>>for
>>
>>
>>>>pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping
>>>>
>>>>
>>by
>>
>>
>>>>using
>>>>them together or independently for differential braking. Do you
>>>>
>>>>
>>think
>>
>>
>>>>this
>>>>could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger
>>>>
>>>>
>>and
>>
>>
>>>>preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
>>>>occasional
>>>>roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my
>>>>
>>>>
>>kids
>>
>>
>>>>scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building
>>>>
>>>>
>>things
>>
>>
>>>>(RC).
>>>>I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
>>>>
>>>>
>>>make
>>>
>>>
>>>>sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with
>>>>
>>>>
>>flutter
>>
>>
>>>or
>>>
>>>
>>>>something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks
>>>>
>>>>
>>again
>>
>>
>>>>for
>>>>your advice. Regards Carl
>>>>
>>>>Carl W Bell
>>>>New Venture Consulting
>>>>Office: 803.648.3407
>>>>Mobile: 803.640.2760
>>>>www.newventureconsulting.com
>>>>carlbell@gforcecable.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
>>>>
>>>>
>>matejcek
>>
>>
>>>>Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
>>>>To: RV-List Digest Server
>>>>Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>><aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>>>>Hi Carl-
>>>>
>>>>Since you asked....
>>>>
>>>>Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than
>>>>
>>>>
>>a
>>
>>
>>>4,
>>>
>>>
>>>>or probably a 9.
>>>>
>>>>I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
>>>>control whereas a nose dragger will not.
>>>>
>>>>If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
>>>>additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges
>>>>
>>>>
>>are a
>>
>>
>>>>way
>>>>of life for you.
>>>>
>>>>WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro
>>>>
>>>>
>>world
>>
>>
>>>and
>>>
>>>
>>>>figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they
>>>>
>>>>
>>are
>>
>>
>>>>properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's
>>>>
>>>>
>>shoes
>>
>>
>>>>that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
>>>>
>>>>
>>>world,
>>>
>>>
>>>>this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
>>>>
>>>>
>>>your
>>>
>>>
>>>>case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your
>>>>
>>>>
>>prosthesis.
>>
>>
>>>>This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone
>>>>
>>>>
>>else.
>>
>>
>>>>Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly
>>>>
>>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>>>plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
>>>>
>>>>There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
>>>>
>>>>
>>>lever
>>>
>>>
>>>>mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
>>>>
>>>>
>>>operate
>>>
>>>
>>>>both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
>>>>opposed
>>>>to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
>>>>
>>>>Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the
>>>>
>>>>
>>'good
>>
>>
>>>>foot' operate both brakes.
>>>>
>>>>In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of
>>>>
>>>>
>>enough
>>
>>
>>>>mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
>>>>
>>>>
>>>available,
>>>
>>>
>>>>but they are starting points.
>>>>
>>>>For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
>>>>
>>>>
>>with
>>
>>
>>>a
>>>
>>>
>>>>selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system
>>>>
>>>>
>>and
>>
>>
>>>>one
>>>>separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
>>>>
>>>>
>>brake
>>
>>
>>>>you
>>>>apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at
>>>>
>>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>>>moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if
>>>>
>>>>
>>you
>>
>>
>>>>like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
>>>>
>>>>Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
>>>>
>>>>
>>>this
>>>
>>>
>>>>an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
>>>>
>>>>
>>>such
>>>
>>>
>>>>that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is
>>>>
>>>>
>>unlocked.
>>
>>
>>>>Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and
>>>>
>>>>
>>Ldg.
>>
>>
>>>>Hard
>>>>against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
>>>>configuration has also been used in the past.
>>>>
>>>>Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the
>>>>
>>>>
>>throttle
>>
>>
>>>>side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or
>>>>
>>>>
>>could
>>
>>
>>>>operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right
>>>>
>>>>
>>brake.
>>
>>
>>>>The
>>>>latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when
>>>>
>>>>
>>things
>>
>>
>>>>start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full
>>>>
>>>>
>>use of
>>
>>
>>>>the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would
>>>>
>>>>
>>mean
>>
>>
>>>>either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
>>>>
>>>>As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be
>>>>
>>>>
>>fashioned
>>
>>
>>>>that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on
>>>>
>>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>>>throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage
>>>>
>>>>
>>would
>>
>>
>>>>likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
>>>>looking
>>>>lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting
>>>>
>>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>>>locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you,
>>>>
>>>>
>>but
>>
>>
>>>>would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
>>>>
>>>>A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
>>>>
>>>>
>>>that
>>>
>>>
>>>>returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This
>>>>
>>>>
>>would
>>
>>
>>>pay
>>>
>>>
>>>>off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
>>>>
>>>>Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic
>>>>
>>>>
>>aircraft
>>
>>
>>>>and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
>>>>
>>>>glen matejcek
>>>>aerobubba@earthlink.net
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Thanks Bob,
Below the knee you can do toe brakes, above the knee just isn't consistent
or powerful enough. I have been given some really good ideas and advice and
I think I have solved most of the issues for a few minor modifications to
make it work safely with a push-pull rudder control and a neat hand brake
set up from the dune buggy world, but I would still love to find a guy with
an AK and a nose or tail dragger RV and see what they are flying. Regards
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob C.
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Hi Carl,
I bought a RV8 project from a fellow in Galesburg, IL who has an
prosthetic leg . . . don't know if above or below the knee. He had
built an flew two other RV8s before this one with no modification that
I'm aware of.
I'll forward your email to him and hopefully he can help?
Regards,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 - Finishing - N83RC
On 4/22/07, Carl Bell <carlbell@gforcecable.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>
> I am new to the list and starting the journey to build an RV but could use
> some advice before I get going. I have a bit of a dilemma which I need to
> work out before I order more than the RV empennage kit. I am a left leg
> above the knee amputee and I believe I need to work with an instructor to
> figure out the plane for me to build and modify as appropriate. I can fly
> standard Cherokee's, Arrow's, etc by using my good leg for either the left
> or right rudder pedal as required and the hand brake if I need to hit both
> brakes at once. Of course the Piper line has nose wheel steering and I
find
> this very easy for me to accomplish. I am just not sure what direction I
> should pursue for the RV and feel I could use some flight instruction to
try
> and figure it out. I know I will need a hand brake to hit both brakes
> simultaneously, and I'm thinking I will get more positive steering control
> on an RV by going with a tail dragger vs a nose wheel version and trying
the
> differential toe braking. Any help you all can offer would be sincerely
> appreciated. If there are any AK's amputees flying RV's that can clue me
in,
> it would terrific. I'm retiring next month and can work on this full
time.
> I was commercial-instrument rated, but now have had to revert to private.
> Thanks Carl
>
>
> Carl W Bell
>
> New Venture Consulting
>
> Office: 803.648.3407
>
> Mobile: 803.640.2760
>
> www.newventureconsulting.com
>
> carlbell@gforcecable.com
>
>
> - The RV-List Email Forum -
> browse
> Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
> much more:
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> the Web Forums!
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Darrell,
Peg leg sounds like the guy I'm looking for, does he have an email or can
you get his phone number? BTW they call me stump! Where is Taylor Airport?
Thanks Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
I have a friend on the Taylor Airport, "Pegleg" as he
likes to be called, that has a dual lever brake system
on the RV-7A. I've flown with him and the system works
great!
Darrell
--- Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com> wrote:
> <n616tb@btsapps.com>
>
> Hi Carl,
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> I have an RV-6. I agree it takes a lot more effort
> on the pedals (dancing)
> to fly tail wheel. I have lots of tail wheel time
> and am comfortable, but
> may build a nose wheel the next time. (RV-10 <bg>)
>
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 2:50 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > I think you are right, I found those on the site
> from what you had
> > previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking
> brakes or just tie downs
> > and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a
> safe conversion in
> > place
> > now, I may have to play with it a little, but this
> should be easier that
> > flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and
> pulling the panel parking
> > brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW.
> Carl
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> >
> > Carl,
> >
> > Now that I think about this, a dual handle control
> would be better. They
> > are two handles side by side that both pull either
> back or forward
> > depending
> > on how you install it. I was originally thinking
> of space, but with two
> > handles you could pull them both back at once for
> regular braking. Still
> > easy to install, etc but about they are about an
> inch wider.
> >
> >
>
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
> >
> > two thirds of the way down the page.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > >
> > > Tim,
> > >
> > > Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll
> just use a standard
> > locking
> > > parking brake cylinder for both and of course
> for parking on the bottom
> > of
> > > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > >
> > > You might consider a push-pull hand lever that
> is hydraulic operated.
> > > These
> > > are quite common in sand rails for brake
> turning. Pull to go left and
> > > push
> > > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to
> install, and does not need to
> > > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> > >
> >
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> > > CB
> > > 1
> > >
> > > paste the link back together if it is on two
> lines.
> > >
> > > They make these with two handles as well.
> > >
> > > Good luck to you
> > > Tim
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > > >
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Glen;
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for all of your input; you have some
> really great ideas,
> > > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I
> can make this a very
> > simple
> > > > modification by using a cable and pulley in
> the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > > > rudder
> > > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder
> pedals together, and makes
> > it
> > > a
> > > > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty
> standard. If there isn't
> > > > room
> > > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the
> pulley toward the spar.
> > > Then
> > > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my
> side and weld a tube at
> > > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop
> over the top of my foot
> > for
> > > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand
> brakes for stopping by
> > > > using
> > > > them together or independently for
> differential braking. Do you think
> > > > this
> > > > could do the trick? Most are saying I should
> go with a nose dragger
> > and
> > > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I
> hate to give up and
> > > > occasional
> > > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for
> X country to visit my
> > kids
> > > > scattered about the US and of course I love
> flying and building things
> > > > (RC).
> > > > I will draw this up and send it to Van with
> all the Caveats' just to
> > > make
> > > > sure that tying the pedals together won't
> create a problem with
> > flutter
> > > or
> > > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus
> tail wheel? Thanks
> > again
> > > > for
> > > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > > >
> > > > Carl W Bell
> > > > New Venture Consulting
> > > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> > > >
> > <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Carl-
> > > >
> > > > Since you asked....
> > > >
> > > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to
> make system mods than a
> > > 4,
> > > > or probably a 9.
> > > >
> > > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give
> you positive steering
> > > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > > >
> > > > If you are not already a conventional gear
> aviator, this may pose an
> > > > additional challenge, although I'm guessing
> additional challenges are
> > a
> > > > way
> > > > of life for you.
> > > >
> > > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from
> the serious acro world
> > > and
> > > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe
> locks, or whatever they
> > are
> > > > properly called. These are fittings on the
> bottoms of the racer's
> > shoes
> > > > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle
> pedals. In the acro
> > > world,
> > > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders
> while doing hard acro. In
> > > your
> > > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder
> pedal with your prosthesis.
> > > > This should afford you the same rudder control
> ability as anyone else.
> > > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it
> would allow you to fly
> > the
> > > > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> > > >
> > > > There are aircraft in the world that use a
> bicycle-style hand brake
> > > lever
> > > > mounted on the control stick. With such an
> arrangement, you would
> > > operate
> > > > both brakes without having to do a major grip
> switch on landing, as
> > > > opposed
> > > > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson
> bar type arrangement.
> > > >
> > > > Another option would be to have a 'normal'
> master cylinder for the
> > 'good
> > > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > > >
> > > > In each of the above, there are potential
> issues with a lack of enough
> > > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate
> braking with the travel
> > > available,
> > > > but they are starting points.
> > > >
> > > > For differential braking, there have been
> aircraft that were built
> > with
> > > a
> > > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the
> rudder control system
> > and
> > > > one
> > > > separate brake master cylinder. With such a
> system, to get right
> > brake
> > > > you
> > > > apply right rudder and then operate the brake
> lever. I'm sorry, at
> > the
> > > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had
> that arrangement, but if
> > you
> > > > like I could pester some geezers I know to see
> if they recall.
> > > >
> > > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I
> suspect you would find
> > > this
> > > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW
> lock to the control stick
> > > such
> > > > that when the stick is full aft against the
> stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock
> the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > > > Hard
> > > > against the stop would unlock it for tight
> ground maneuvering. This
> > > > configuration has also been used in the past.
> > > >
> > > > Another option for brake power would be a
> separate lever on the
> > throttle
> > > > side. This lever could operate both brakes as
> outlined above, or
> > could
> > > > operate the left brake while your right foot
> operated the right brake.
> > > > The
> > > > latter configuration could be cause for
> confusion and error when
> > things
> > > > start happening quickly. Either arrangement
> would allow for full use
> > of
> > > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as
> the brake, but would mean
> > > > either brake or throttle, which is of course
> sub-optimal.
> > > >
> > > > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a
> system could be
> > fashioned
> > > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or
> helicopter type twist grip on
> > the
> > > > throttle lever for brake operation. Again,
> mechanical advantage would
> > > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would
> be to have a throttle-
> > > > looking
> > > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the
> brakes and twisting the
> > > > locking grip operated the throttle. This
> could work well for you, but
> > > > would be a human factors trap for anyone else
> who flew in that seat.
> > > >
> > > > A separate design goal might be that whatever
> you do, you do it such
> > > that
> > > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is
> relatively easy. This would
> > > pay
> > > > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, you might do a little research and
> find an aerobatic aircraft
> > > > and/or school equipped with the foot latches
> and give them a try.
> > > >
> > > > glen matejcek
> > > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Dan,
I don't know what they use in the Cherokees, but you can pull on it and it
loads both mains, then if you push the button it locks the brake in the
pulled position and acts as a parking brake. If need be I'll get one of
them from Piper. I am not familiar with the Matco, but I will check it out
and see what is available. Thanks for the heads up. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
One thing to keep in mind is that the parking brake by Matco that is
commonly used on RV's is for holding pressure that already has been
applied, IE it is an open and close valve not a pressure piston for
stopping, so you would have to use something to apply the pressure.
Dan
N289DT
RV10E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Tim,
I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie
downs
and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in
place
now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier that
flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel parking
brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Carl,
Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better.
They
are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward
depending
on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking.
Still
easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
two thirds of the way down the page.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard
locking
> parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the
bottom of
> the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
> These
> are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
> push
> to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need
to
> interfere with the standard foot brakes.
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=J
AM
> CB
> 1
>
> paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
>
> They make these with two handles as well.
>
> Good luck to you
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> >
> > Hi Glen;
> >
> > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very
simple
> > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or
9
> > rudder
> > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and
makes it
> a
> > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there
isn't
> > room
> > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
> Then
> > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube
at
> > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot
for
> > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping
by
> > using
> > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you
think
> > this
> > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger
and
> > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > occasional
> > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my
kids
> > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building
things
> > (RC).
> > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
> make
> > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with
flutter
> or
> > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks
again
> > for
> > your advice. Regards Carl
> >
> > Carl W Bell
> > New Venture Consulting
> > Office: 803.648.3407
> > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
matejcek
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Hi Carl-
> >
> > Since you asked....
> >
> > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than
a
> 4,
> > or probably a 9.
> >
> > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> >
> > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges
are a
> > way
> > of life for you.
> >
> > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro
world
> and
> > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they
are
> > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's
shoes
> > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> world,
> > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
> your
> > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your
prosthesis.
> > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone
else.
> > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly
the
> > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> >
> > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
> lever
> > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> operate
> > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> > opposed
> > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
> >
> > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the
'good
> > foot' operate both brakes.
> >
> > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of
enough
> > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> available,
> > but they are starting points.
> >
> > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
with
> a
> > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system
and
> > one
> > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
brake
> > you
> > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at
the
> > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if
you
> > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> >
> > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
> this
> > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
> such
> > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is
unlocked.
> > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and
Ldg.
> > Hard
> > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> > configuration has also been used in the past.
> >
> > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the
throttle
> > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or
could
> > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right
brake.
> > The
> > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when
things
> > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full
use of
> > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would
mean
> > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> >
> > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be
fashioned
> > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on
the
> > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage
would
> > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> > looking
> > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting
the
> > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you,
but
> > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
> >
> > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
> that
> > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This
would
> pay
> > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> >
> > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic
aircraft
> > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> >
> > glen matejcek
> > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Fuel dripping down carbureator at idle cutoff |
Two weeks ago I reported that I had fuel dripping down the carburetor at
idle cutoff. Today I did more testing and the situation got worse. It
happens only at idle when I began to pull the mixture control out. Called
Aero Sport Power and talked to Bart. He immediately said that was a heavy
float problem and promised to Fed Exp a replacement carburetor to me. I am
still puzzled as why a heavy (leaking?) float will cause the fuel to spill
out at idle cutoff. After engine stops, turning on electric fuel pump does
not cause any fuel leak. Before this problem began, I was not able to adjust
the idle mixture to get rpm rise at idle cutoff. Today I was almost not able
to shut down the engine. As I pull the mixture control out, the engine went
up more than 400 rpm! This is after I turned the idle mixture screw all the
way in.
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, Dual Mag, Sensenich FP
GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 138 Hobbs
Message 26
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Carl,
I will get you two guys together. We can take some
pics and he has the catalog which shows the product he
used... Very nice set-up for sure!
Darrell
--- Carl Bell <carlbell@gforcecable.com> wrote:
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
>
>
> Darrell,
>
> Peg leg sounds like the guy I'm looking for, does he
> have an email or can
> you get his phone number? BTW they call me stump!
> Where is Taylor Airport?
> Thanks Carl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:48 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> I have a friend on the Taylor Airport, "Pegleg" as
> he
> likes to be called, that has a dual lever brake
> system
> on the RV-7A. I've flown with him and the system
> works
> great!
>
> Darrell
>
>
>
> --- Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com> wrote:
>
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> >
> > Hi Carl,
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > I have an RV-6. I agree it takes a lot more
> effort
> > on the pedals (dancing)
> > to fly tail wheel. I have lots of tail wheel time
> > and am comfortable, but
> > may build a nose wheel the next time. (RV-10 <bg>)
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 2:50 PM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > >
> > > Tim,
> > >
> > > I think you are right, I found those on the site
> > from what you had
> > > previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a
> parking
> > brakes or just tie downs
> > > and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put
> a
> > safe conversion in
> > > place
> > > now, I may have to play with it a little, but
> this
> > should be easier that
> > > flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and
> > pulling the panel parking
> > > brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW.
> > Carl
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > >
> > > Carl,
> > >
> > > Now that I think about this, a dual handle
> control
> > would be better. They
> > > are two handles side by side that both pull
> either
> > back or forward
> > > depending
> > > on how you install it. I was originally
> thinking
> > of space, but with two
> > > handles you could pull them both back at once
> for
> > regular braking. Still
> > > easy to install, etc but about they are about an
> > inch wider.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
> > >
> > > two thirds of the way down the page.
> > >
> > > Tim
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > >
> > > > Tim,
> > > >
> > > > Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll
> > just use a standard
> > > locking
> > > > parking brake cylinder for both and of course
> > for parking on the bottom
> > > of
> > > > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > >
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > > >
> > > > You might consider a push-pull hand lever that
> > is hydraulic operated.
> > > > These
> > > > are quite common in sand rails for brake
> > turning. Pull to go left and
> > > > push
> > > > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to
> > install, and does not need to
> > > > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> > > > CB
> > > > 1
> > > >
> > > > paste the link back together if it is on two
> > lines.
> > > >
> > > > They make these with two handles as well.
> > > >
> > > > Good luck to you
> > > > Tim
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Glen;
> > > > >
> > > > > Thank you for all of your input; you have
> some
> > really great ideas,
> > > > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I
> > can make this a very
> > > simple
> > > > > modification by using a cable and pulley in
> > the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > > > > rudder
> > > > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder
> > pedals together, and makes
> > > it
> > > > a
> > > > > closed loop system, and keeping things
> pretty
> > standard. If there isn't
> > > > > room
> > > > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the
> > pulley toward the spar.
> > > > Then
> > > > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on
> my
> > side and weld a tube at
> > > > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop
> > over the top of my foot
> > > for
> > > > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2
> hand
> > brakes for stopping by
> > > > > using
> > > > > them together or independently for
> > differential braking. Do you think
> > > > > this
> > > > > could do the trick? Most are saying I should
> > go with a nose dragger
> > > and
> > > > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself.
> I
> > hate to give up and
> > > > > occasional
> > > > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane
> for
> > X country to visit my
> > > kids
> > > > > scattered about the US and of course I love
> > flying and building things
> > > > > (RC).
> > > > > I will draw this up and send it to Van with
> > all the Caveats' just to
> > > > make
> > > > > sure that tying the pedals together won't
> > create a problem with
> > > flutter
> > > > or
> > > > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel
> versus
> > tail wheel? Thanks
> > > again
> > > > > for
> > > > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > > > >
> > > > > Carl W Bell
> > > > > New Venture Consulting
> > > > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > > > >
> matejcek"
> > > <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Carl-
> > > > >
> > > > > Since you asked....
> > > > >
> > > > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room
> to
> > make system mods than a
> > > > 4,
> > > > > or probably a 9.
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will
> give
> > you positive steering
> > > > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you are not already a conventional gear
> > aviator, this may pose an
> > > > > additional challenge, although I'm guessing
> > additional challenges are
> > > a
> > > > > way
> > > > > of life for you.
> > > > >
> > > > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint
> from
> > the serious acro world
> > > > and
> > > > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe
> > locks, or whatever they
> > > are
> > > > > properly called. These are fittings on the
> > bottoms of the racer's
> > > shoes
> > > > > that lock into mating fittings on the
> bicycle
> > pedals. In the acro
> > > > world,
> > > > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders
> > while doing hard acro. In
> > > > your
> > > > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder
> > pedal with your prosthesis.
> > > > > This should afford you the same rudder
> control
> > ability as anyone else.
> > > > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it
> > would allow you to fly
> > > the
> > > > > plane without modifications to the
> prosthesis.
> > > > >
> > > > > There are aircraft in the world that use a
> > bicycle-style hand brake
> > > > lever
> > > > > mounted on the control stick. With such an
> > arrangement, you would
> > > > operate
> > > > > both brakes without having to do a major
> grip
> > switch on landing, as
> > > > > opposed
> > > > > to what would happen if you employed a
> Johnson
> > bar type arrangement.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another option would be to have a 'normal'
> > master cylinder for the
> > > 'good
> > > > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > > > >
> > > > > In each of the above, there are potential
> > issues with a lack of enough
> > > > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate
> > braking with the travel
> > > > available,
> > > > > but they are starting points.
> > > > >
> > > > > For differential braking, there have been
> > aircraft that were built
> > > with
> > > > a
> > > > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into
> the
> > rudder control system
> > > and
> > > > > one
> > > > > separate brake master cylinder. With such a
> > system, to get right
> > > brake
> > > > > you
> > > > > apply right rudder and then operate the
> brake
> > lever. I'm sorry, at
> > > the
> > > > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had
> > that arrangement, but if
> > > you
> > > > > like I could pester some geezers I know to
> see
> > if they recall.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel.
> I
> > suspect you would find
> > > > this
> > > > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW
> > lock to the control stick
> > > > such
> > > > > that when the stick is full aft against the
> > stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > > > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would
> lock
> > the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > > > > Hard
> > > > > against the stop would unlock it for tight
> > ground maneuvering. This
> > > > > configuration has also been used in the
> past.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another option for brake power would be a
> > separate lever on the
> > > throttle
> > > > > side. This lever could operate both brakes
> as
> > outlined above, or
> > > could
> > > > > operate the left brake while your right foot
> > operated the right brake.
> > > > > The
> > > > > latter configuration could be cause for
> > confusion and error when
> > > things
> > > > > start happening quickly. Either arrangement
> > would allow for full use
> > > of
> > > > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as
> > the brake, but would mean
> > > > > either brake or throttle, which is of course
> > sub-optimal.
> > > > >
> > > > > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps
> a
> > system could be
> > > fashioned
> > > > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or
> > helicopter type twist grip on
> > > the
> > > > > throttle lever for brake operation. Again,
> > mechanical advantage would
> > > > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea
> would
> > be to have a throttle-
> > > > > looking
> > > > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered
> the
> > brakes and twisting the
> > > > > locking grip operated the throttle. This
> > could work well for you, but
> > > > > would be a human factors trap for anyone
> else
> > who flew in that seat.
> > > > >
> > > > > A separate design goal might be that
> whatever
> > you do, you do it such
> > > > that
> > > > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is
> > relatively easy. This would
> > > > pay
> > > > > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lastly, you might do a little research and
> > find an aerobatic aircraft
> > > > > and/or school equipped with the foot latches
> > and give them a try.
> > > > >
> > > > > glen matejcek
> > > > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Web Forums!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 27
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
I just emailed Jim "Pegleg", should hear something by
tomorrow. I have a key to his hanger and if he wants
me to, I will take some pics for you.
Darrell
--- Carl Bell <carlbell@gforcecable.com> wrote:
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
>
>
> Darrell,
>
> Peg leg sounds like the guy I'm looking for, does he
> have an email or can
> you get his phone number? BTW they call me stump!
> Where is Taylor Airport?
> Thanks Carl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:48 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> I have a friend on the Taylor Airport, "Pegleg" as
> he
> likes to be called, that has a dual lever brake
> system
> on the RV-7A. I've flown with him and the system
> works
> great!
>
> Darrell
>
>
>
> --- Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com> wrote:
>
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> >
> > Hi Carl,
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > I have an RV-6. I agree it takes a lot more
> effort
> > on the pedals (dancing)
> > to fly tail wheel. I have lots of tail wheel time
> > and am comfortable, but
> > may build a nose wheel the next time. (RV-10 <bg>)
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 2:50 PM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > >
> > > Tim,
> > >
> > > I think you are right, I found those on the site
> > from what you had
> > > previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a
> parking
> > brakes or just tie downs
> > > and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put
> a
> > safe conversion in
> > > place
> > > now, I may have to play with it a little, but
> this
> > should be easier that
> > > flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and
> > pulling the panel parking
> > > brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW.
> > Carl
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > >
> > > Carl,
> > >
> > > Now that I think about this, a dual handle
> control
> > would be better. They
> > > are two handles side by side that both pull
> either
> > back or forward
> > > depending
> > > on how you install it. I was originally
> thinking
> > of space, but with two
> > > handles you could pull them both back at once
> for
> > regular braking. Still
> > > easy to install, etc but about they are about an
> > inch wider.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
> > >
> > > two thirds of the way down the page.
> > >
> > > Tim
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > >
> > > > Tim,
> > > >
> > > > Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll
> > just use a standard
> > > locking
> > > > parking brake cylinder for both and of course
> > for parking on the bottom
> > > of
> > > > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > >
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > > >
> > > > You might consider a push-pull hand lever that
> > is hydraulic operated.
> > > > These
> > > > are quite common in sand rails for brake
> > turning. Pull to go left and
> > > > push
> > > > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to
> > install, and does not need to
> > > > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> > > > CB
> > > > 1
> > > >
> > > > paste the link back together if it is on two
> > lines.
> > > >
> > > > They make these with two handles as well.
> > > >
> > > > Good luck to you
> > > > Tim
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Glen;
> > > > >
> > > > > Thank you for all of your input; you have
> some
> > really great ideas,
> > > > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I
> > can make this a very
> > > simple
> > > > > modification by using a cable and pulley in
> > the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > > > > rudder
> > > > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder
> > pedals together, and makes
> > > it
> > > > a
> > > > > closed loop system, and keeping things
> pretty
> > standard. If there isn't
> > > > > room
> > > > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the
> > pulley toward the spar.
> > > > Then
> > > > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on
> my
> > side and weld a tube at
> > > > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop
> > over the top of my foot
> > > for
> > > > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2
> hand
> > brakes for stopping by
> > > > > using
> > > > > them together or independently for
> > differential braking. Do you think
> > > > > this
> > > > > could do the trick? Most are saying I should
> > go with a nose dragger
> > > and
> > > > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself.
> I
> > hate to give up and
> > > > > occasional
> > > > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane
> for
> > X country to visit my
> > > kids
> > > > > scattered about the US and of course I love
> > flying and building things
> > > > > (RC).
> > > > > I will draw this up and send it to Van with
> > all the Caveats' just to
> > > > make
> > > > > sure that tying the pedals together won't
> > create a problem with
> > > flutter
> > > > or
> > > > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel
> versus
> > tail wheel? Thanks
> > > again
> > > > > for
> > > > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > > > >
> > > > > Carl W Bell
> > > > > New Venture Consulting
> > > > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > > > >
> matejcek"
> > > <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Carl-
> > > > >
> > > > > Since you asked....
> > > > >
> > > > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room
> to
> > make system mods than a
> > > > 4,
> > > > > or probably a 9.
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will
> give
> > you positive steering
> > > > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you are not already a conventional gear
> > aviator, this may pose an
> > > > > additional challenge, although I'm guessing
> > additional challenges are
> > > a
> > > > > way
> > > > > of life for you.
> > > > >
> > > > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint
> from
> > the serious acro world
> > > > and
> > > > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe
> > locks, or whatever they
> > > are
> > > > > properly called. These are fittings on the
> > bottoms of the racer's
> > > shoes
> > > > > that lock into mating fittings on the
> bicycle
> > pedals. In the acro
> > > > world,
> > > > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders
> > while doing hard acro. In
> > > > your
> > > > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder
> > pedal with your prosthesis.
> > > > > This should afford you the same rudder
> control
> > ability as anyone else.
> > > > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it
> > would allow you to fly
> > > the
> > > > > plane without modifications to the
> prosthesis.
> > > > >
> > > > > There are aircraft in the world that use a
> > bicycle-style hand brake
> > > > lever
> > > > > mounted on the control stick. With such an
> > arrangement, you would
> > > > operate
> > > > > both brakes without having to do a major
> grip
> > switch on landing, as
> > > > > opposed
> > > > > to what would happen if you employed a
> Johnson
> > bar type arrangement.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another option would be to have a 'normal'
> > master cylinder for the
> > > 'good
> > > > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > > > >
> > > > > In each of the above, there are potential
> > issues with a lack of enough
> > > > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate
> > braking with the travel
> > > > available,
> > > > > but they are starting points.
> > > > >
> > > > > For differential braking, there have been
> > aircraft that were built
> > > with
> > > > a
> > > > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into
> the
> > rudder control system
> > > and
> > > > > one
> > > > > separate brake master cylinder. With such a
> > system, to get right
> > > brake
> > > > > you
> > > > > apply right rudder and then operate the
> brake
> > lever. I'm sorry, at
> > > the
> > > > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had
> > that arrangement, but if
> > > you
> > > > > like I could pester some geezers I know to
> see
> > if they recall.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel.
> I
> > suspect you would find
> > > > this
> > > > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW
> > lock to the control stick
> > > > such
> > > > > that when the stick is full aft against the
> > stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > > > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would
> lock
> > the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > > > > Hard
> > > > > against the stop would unlock it for tight
> > ground maneuvering. This
> > > > > configuration has also been used in the
> past.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another option for brake power would be a
> > separate lever on the
> > > throttle
> > > > > side. This lever could operate both brakes
> as
> > outlined above, or
> > > could
> > > > > operate the left brake while your right foot
> > operated the right brake.
> > > > > The
> > > > > latter configuration could be cause for
> > confusion and error when
> > > things
> > > > > start happening quickly. Either arrangement
> > would allow for full use
> > > of
> > > > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as
> > the brake, but would mean
> > > > > either brake or throttle, which is of course
> > sub-optimal.
> > > > >
> > > > > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps
> a
> > system could be
> > > fashioned
> > > > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or
> > helicopter type twist grip on
> > > the
> > > > > throttle lever for brake operation. Again,
> > mechanical advantage would
> > > > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea
> would
> > be to have a throttle-
> > > > > looking
> > > > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered
> the
> > brakes and twisting the
> > > > > locking grip operated the throttle. This
> > could work well for you, but
> > > > > would be a human factors trap for anyone
> else
> > who flew in that seat.
> > > > >
> > > > > A separate design goal might be that
> whatever
> > you do, you do it such
> > > > that
> > > > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is
> > relatively easy. This would
> > > > pay
> > > > > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lastly, you might do a little research and
> > find an aerobatic aircraft
> > > > > and/or school equipped with the foot latches
> > and give them a try.
> > > > >
> > > > > glen matejcek
> > > > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Web Forums!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 28
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Darrell, where is Taylor ? Thx Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 9:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
I just emailed Jim "Pegleg", should hear something by
tomorrow. I have a key to his hanger and if he wants
me to, I will take some pics for you.
Darrell
--- Carl Bell <carlbell@gforcecable.com> wrote:
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
>
>
> Darrell,
>
> Peg leg sounds like the guy I'm looking for, does he
> have an email or can
> you get his phone number? BTW they call me stump!
> Where is Taylor Airport?
> Thanks Carl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:48 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> I have a friend on the Taylor Airport, "Pegleg" as
> he
> likes to be called, that has a dual lever brake
> system
> on the RV-7A. I've flown with him and the system
> works
> great!
>
> Darrell
>
>
>
> --- Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com> wrote:
>
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> >
> > Hi Carl,
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> > I have an RV-6. I agree it takes a lot more
> effort
> > on the pedals (dancing)
> > to fly tail wheel. I have lots of tail wheel time
> > and am comfortable, but
> > may build a nose wheel the next time. (RV-10 <bg>)
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 2:50 PM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > >
> > > Tim,
> > >
> > > I think you are right, I found those on the site
> > from what you had
> > > previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a
> parking
> > brakes or just tie downs
> > > and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put
> a
> > safe conversion in
> > > place
> > > now, I may have to play with it a little, but
> this
> > should be easier that
> > > flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and
> > pulling the panel parking
> > > brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW.
> > Carl
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > >
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > >
> > > Carl,
> > >
> > > Now that I think about this, a dual handle
> control
> > would be better. They
> > > are two handles side by side that both pull
> either
> > back or forward
> > > depending
> > > on how you install it. I was originally
> thinking
> > of space, but with two
> > > handles you could pull them both back at once
> for
> > regular braking. Still
> > > easy to install, etc but about they are about an
> > inch wider.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
> > >
> > > two thirds of the way down the page.
> > >
> > > Tim
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > >
> > > > Tim,
> > > >
> > > > Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll
> > just use a standard
> > > locking
> > > > parking brake cylinder for both and of course
> > for parking on the bottom
> > > of
> > > > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > >
> > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > > >
> > > > You might consider a push-pull hand lever that
> > is hydraulic operated.
> > > > These
> > > > are quite common in sand rails for brake
> > turning. Pull to go left and
> > > > push
> > > > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to
> > install, and does not need to
> > > > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> > > > CB
> > > > 1
> > > >
> > > > paste the link back together if it is on two
> > lines.
> > > >
> > > > They make these with two handles as well.
> > > >
> > > > Good luck to you
> > > > Tim
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > > >
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Glen;
> > > > >
> > > > > Thank you for all of your input; you have
> some
> > really great ideas,
> > > > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I
> > can make this a very
> > > simple
> > > > > modification by using a cable and pulley in
> > the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > > > > rudder
> > > > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder
> > pedals together, and makes
> > > it
> > > > a
> > > > > closed loop system, and keeping things
> pretty
> > standard. If there isn't
> > > > > room
> > > > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the
> > pulley toward the spar.
> > > > Then
> > > > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on
> my
> > side and weld a tube at
> > > > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop
> > over the top of my foot
> > > for
> > > > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2
> hand
> > brakes for stopping by
> > > > > using
> > > > > them together or independently for
> > differential braking. Do you think
> > > > > this
> > > > > could do the trick? Most are saying I should
> > go with a nose dragger
> > > and
> > > > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself.
> I
> > hate to give up and
> > > > > occasional
> > > > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane
> for
> > X country to visit my
> > > kids
> > > > > scattered about the US and of course I love
> > flying and building things
> > > > > (RC).
> > > > > I will draw this up and send it to Van with
> > all the Caveats' just to
> > > > make
> > > > > sure that tying the pedals together won't
> > create a problem with
> > > flutter
> > > > or
> > > > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel
> versus
> > tail wheel? Thanks
> > > again
> > > > > for
> > > > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > > > >
> > > > > Carl W Bell
> > > > > New Venture Consulting
> > > > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> flyer
> > > > >
> matejcek"
> > > <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Carl-
> > > > >
> > > > > Since you asked....
> > > > >
> > > > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room
> to
> > make system mods than a
> > > > 4,
> > > > > or probably a 9.
> > > > >
> > > > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will
> give
> > you positive steering
> > > > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > > > >
> > > > > If you are not already a conventional gear
> > aviator, this may pose an
> > > > > additional challenge, although I'm guessing
> > additional challenges are
> > > a
> > > > > way
> > > > > of life for you.
> > > > >
> > > > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint
> from
> > the serious acro world
> > > > and
> > > > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe
> > locks, or whatever they
> > > are
> > > > > properly called. These are fittings on the
> > bottoms of the racer's
> > > shoes
> > > > > that lock into mating fittings on the
> bicycle
> > pedals. In the acro
> > > > world,
> > > > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders
> > while doing hard acro. In
> > > > your
> > > > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder
> > pedal with your prosthesis.
> > > > > This should afford you the same rudder
> control
> > ability as anyone else.
> > > > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it
> > would allow you to fly
> > > the
> > > > > plane without modifications to the
> prosthesis.
> > > > >
> > > > > There are aircraft in the world that use a
> > bicycle-style hand brake
> > > > lever
> > > > > mounted on the control stick. With such an
> > arrangement, you would
> > > > operate
> > > > > both brakes without having to do a major
> grip
> > switch on landing, as
> > > > > opposed
> > > > > to what would happen if you employed a
> Johnson
> > bar type arrangement.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another option would be to have a 'normal'
> > master cylinder for the
> > > 'good
> > > > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > > > >
> > > > > In each of the above, there are potential
> > issues with a lack of enough
> > > > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate
> > braking with the travel
> > > > available,
> > > > > but they are starting points.
> > > > >
> > > > > For differential braking, there have been
> > aircraft that were built
> > > with
> > > > a
> > > > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into
> the
> > rudder control system
> > > and
> > > > > one
> > > > > separate brake master cylinder. With such a
> > system, to get right
> > > brake
> > > > > you
> > > > > apply right rudder and then operate the
> brake
> > lever. I'm sorry, at
> > > the
> > > > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had
> > that arrangement, but if
> > > you
> > > > > like I could pester some geezers I know to
> see
> > if they recall.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel.
> I
> > suspect you would find
> > > > this
> > > > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW
> > lock to the control stick
> > > > such
> > > > > that when the stick is full aft against the
> > stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > > > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would
> lock
> > the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > > > > Hard
> > > > > against the stop would unlock it for tight
> > ground maneuvering. This
> > > > > configuration has also been used in the
> past.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another option for brake power would be a
> > separate lever on the
> > > throttle
> > > > > side. This lever could operate both brakes
> as
> > outlined above, or
> > > could
> > > > > operate the left brake while your right foot
> > operated the right brake.
> > > > > The
> > > > > latter configuration could be cause for
> > confusion and error when
> > > things
> > > > > start happening quickly. Either arrangement
> > would allow for full use
> > > of
> > > > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as
> > the brake, but would mean
> > > > > either brake or throttle, which is of course
> > sub-optimal.
> > > > >
> > > > > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps
> a
> > system could be
> > > fashioned
> > > > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or
> > helicopter type twist grip on
> > > the
> > > > > throttle lever for brake operation. Again,
> > mechanical advantage would
> > > > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea
> would
> > be to have a throttle-
> > > > > looking
> > > > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered
> the
> > brakes and twisting the
> > > > > locking grip operated the throttle. This
> > could work well for you, but
> > > > > would be a human factors trap for anyone
> else
> > who flew in that seat.
> > > > >
> > > > > A separate design goal might be that
> whatever
> > you do, you do it such
> > > > that
> > > > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is
> > relatively easy. This would
> > > > pay
> > > > > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lastly, you might do a little research and
> > find an aerobatic aircraft
> > > > > and/or school equipped with the foot latches
> > and give them a try.
> > > > >
> > > > > glen matejcek
> > > > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Web Forums!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 29
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
I previously owned a Cherokee 140, and it had the brake you are talking
about. The one from Matco is what most Rv'ers use, and it only holds the
pressure after you apply it from the pedals. If you could modify the
Cherokee, or use the sand rail differential braking I think that would
be the best.
My 10 should be up and flying in the next month or so, and shortly there
after I will gladly come down and give you a demo ride, so you can see
the 10 with an Eggenfellner in action.
I am only a short hope away up in PA.
Dan Lloyd
N289DT RV10E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 9:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Dan,
I don't know what they use in the Cherokees, but you can pull on it and
it
loads both mains, then if you push the button it locks the brake in the
pulled position and acts as a parking brake. If need be I'll get one of
them from Piper. I am not familiar with the Matco, but I will check it
out
and see what is available. Thanks for the heads up. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
One thing to keep in mind is that the parking brake by Matco that is
commonly used on RV's is for holding pressure that already has been
applied, IE it is an open and close valve not a pressure piston for
stopping, so you would have to use something to apply the pressure.
Dan
N289DT
RV10E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Tim,
I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie
downs
and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in
place
now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier that
flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel parking
brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Carl,
Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better.
They
are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward
depending
on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking.
Still
easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
two thirds of the way down the page.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard
locking
> parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the
bottom of
> the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
> These
> are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
> push
> to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need
to
> interfere with the standard foot brakes.
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=J
AM
> CB
> 1
>
> paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
>
> They make these with two handles as well.
>
> Good luck to you
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> >
> > Hi Glen;
> >
> > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very
simple
> > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or
9
> > rudder
> > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and
makes it
> a
> > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there
isn't
> > room
> > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
> Then
> > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube
at
> > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot
for
> > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping
by
> > using
> > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you
think
> > this
> > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger
and
> > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > occasional
> > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my
kids
> > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building
things
> > (RC).
> > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
> make
> > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with
flutter
> or
> > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks
again
> > for
> > your advice. Regards Carl
> >
> > Carl W Bell
> > New Venture Consulting
> > Office: 803.648.3407
> > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
matejcek
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Hi Carl-
> >
> > Since you asked....
> >
> > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than
a
> 4,
> > or probably a 9.
> >
> > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> >
> > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges
are a
> > way
> > of life for you.
> >
> > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro
world
> and
> > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they
are
> > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's
shoes
> > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> world,
> > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
> your
> > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your
prosthesis.
> > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone
else.
> > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly
the
> > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> >
> > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
> lever
> > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> operate
> > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> > opposed
> > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
> >
> > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the
'good
> > foot' operate both brakes.
> >
> > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of
enough
> > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> available,
> > but they are starting points.
> >
> > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
with
> a
> > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system
and
> > one
> > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
brake
> > you
> > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at
the
> > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if
you
> > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> >
> > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
> this
> > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
> such
> > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is
unlocked.
> > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and
Ldg.
> > Hard
> > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> > configuration has also been used in the past.
> >
> > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the
throttle
> > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or
could
> > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right
brake.
> > The
> > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when
things
> > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full
use of
> > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would
mean
> > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> >
> > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be
fashioned
> > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on
the
> > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage
would
> > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> > looking
> > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting
the
> > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you,
but
> > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
> >
> > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
> that
> > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This
would
> pay
> > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> >
> > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic
aircraft
> > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> >
> > glen matejcek
> > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
Point made. I was addressing more normal operation. If you're prone to
doing aerobatics without inverted systems ..... maybe a crankcase vent
routed to the tail is in order. My biggest gripe with the separators
(all of them) is the modification to get the recovered oil back into the
engine and the acids that get recirculated also. The more wear on the
engine, the worse that crap gets. Most separator users follow the
instructions and return the recovered stuff to the engine and never see
what's being recovered. I have. It's nasty.
Linn
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Linn I agree with what you say about the need for an oil separator but
> another way for oil to get to the bottom side of our airplanes is
> doing aerobatics
> with out an inverted oils system. There does not necessarily have to
> be anything wrong with the engine to have oil on the bottom side.
>
> Do not archive
>
> linn Walters wrote:
>
>> Garry wrote:
>>
>>> I spent a full day walking around the vendor booths at Sun N'Fun
>>> yesterday, and found some interesting sales pitches. A few of the
>>> items actually caught my interest............Air Wolf air/oil
>>> separator,
>>
>>
>> Save your money. If you have a problem with oil on the belly, try
>> lowering the oil level one or two quarts. If it's due to blow by
>> .... you need to do a top .... the rings are shot. Some oil may be
>> going past the valves too. If you decide to waste your money ....
>> it's a cover-up for things that are wrong ..... stick the 'return'
>> hose down in a can that you can empty ..... not back to the engione.
>>
>>> GAMI fuel injectors,
>>
>>
>> Good idea .... but there's an 'experimental' version out there that
>> will do the same thing at less cost.
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>>> and 4 into 1 Exhaust systems. I'd appreciate any feedback from
>>> the group as to the value of these items, if indeed I should even
>>> consider them, and what real world experience folks might have with
>>> using them.
>>>
>>> Garry Stout
>>> RV-7A IO-360
>>> Tampa, Florida
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel dripping down carbureator at idle cutoff |
T.C. Chang wrote:
>
> Two weeks ago I reported that I had fuel dripping down the carburetor at
> idle cutoff. Today I did more testing and the situation got worse. It
> happens only at idle when I began to pull the mixture control out. Called
> Aero Sport Power and talked to Bart. He immediately said that was a heavy
> float problem and promised to Fed Exp a replacement carburetor to me. I am
> still puzzled as why a heavy (leaking?) float will cause the fuel to spill
> out at idle cutoff. After engine stops, turning on electric fuel pump does
> not cause any fuel leak. Before this problem began, I was not able to adjust
> the idle mixture to get rpm rise at idle cutoff. Today I was almost not able
> to shut down the engine. As I pull the mixture control out, the engine went
> up more than 400 rpm! This is after I turned the idle mixture screw all the
> way in.
>
> Ted
>
If the float sinks, the bowl will try to over-fill with fuel because the
float isn't closing the inlet valve when the bowl is full. It could run
ok (but rich) if the float hasn't sunk much, but at idle it would run
very rich. Pulling the mixture would lean back to ideal mixture & rpm
would rise significantly.
Message 32
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Taylor Texas Airport just outside of Round Rock, Texas
East of town...
Darrell
--- Carl Bell <carlbell@gforcecable.com> wrote:
> <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
>
> Darrell, where is Taylor ? Thx Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 9:45 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> I just emailed Jim "Pegleg", should hear something
> by
> tomorrow. I have a key to his hanger and if he wants
> me to, I will take some pics for you.
>
> Darrell
>
>
> --- Carl Bell <carlbell@gforcecable.com> wrote:
>
> > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> >
> >
> > Darrell,
> >
> > Peg leg sounds like the guy I'm looking for, does
> he
> > have an email or can
> > you get his phone number? BTW they call me stump!
>
> > Where is Taylor Airport?
> > Thanks Carl
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:48 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
> > <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
> >
> > I have a friend on the Taylor Airport, "Pegleg" as
> > he
> > likes to be called, that has a dual lever brake
> > system
> > on the RV-7A. I've flown with him and the system
> > works
> > great!
> >
> > Darrell
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Tim Bryan <n616tb@btsapps.com> wrote:
> >
> > > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > >
> > > Hi Carl,
> > >
> > > Do Not Archive
> > >
> > > I have an RV-6. I agree it takes a lot more
> > effort
> > > on the pedals (dancing)
> > > to fly tail wheel. I have lots of tail wheel
> time
> > > and am comfortable, but
> > > may build a nose wheel the next time. (RV-10
> <bg>)
> > >
> > > Tim
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 2:50 PM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > >
> > > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > >
> > > > Tim,
> > > >
> > > > I think you are right, I found those on the
> site
> > > from what you had
> > > > previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a
> > parking
> > > brakes or just tie downs
> > > > and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can
> put
> > a
> > > safe conversion in
> > > > place
> > > > now, I may have to play with it a little, but
> > this
> > > should be easier that
> > > > flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and
> > > pulling the panel parking
> > > > brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling
> BTW.
> > > Carl
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > > Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
> > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > >
> > > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > > >
> > > > Carl,
> > > >
> > > > Now that I think about this, a dual handle
> > control
> > > would be better. They
> > > > are two handles side by side that both pull
> > either
> > > back or forward
> > > > depending
> > > > on how you install it. I was originally
> > thinking
> > > of space, but with two
> > > > handles you could pull them both back at once
> > for
> > > regular braking. Still
> > > > easy to install, etc but about they are about
> an
> > > inch wider.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
> > > >
> > > > two thirds of the way down the page.
> > > >
> > > > Tim
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > > flyer
> > > > >
> > > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > Tim,
> > > > >
> > > > > Wow that's perfect, that will work well.
> I'll
> > > just use a standard
> > > > locking
> > > > > parking brake cylinder for both and of
> course
> > > for parking on the bottom
> > > > of
> > > > > the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
> On
> > > Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > > flyer
> > > > >
> > > <n616tb@btsapps.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > You might consider a push-pull hand lever
> that
> > > is hydraulic operated.
> > > > > These
> > > > > are quite common in sand rails for brake
> > > turning. Pull to go left and
> > > > > push
> > > > > to go right. Simple to operate, simple to
> > > install, and does not need to
> > > > > interfere with the standard foot brakes.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=JAM
> > > > > CB
> > > > > 1
> > > > >
> > > > > paste the link back together if it is on two
> > > lines.
> > > > >
> > > > > They make these with two handles as well.
> > > > >
> > > > > Good luck to you
> > > > > Tim
> > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > > > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl
> Bell
> > > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one
> leg
> > > flyer
> > > > > >
> > > <carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Glen;
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thank you for all of your input; you have
> > some
> > > really great ideas,
> > > > > > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think
> I
> > > can make this a very
> > > > simple
> > > > > > modification by using a cable and pulley
> in
> > > the middle of a RV 7 or 9
> > > > > > rudder
> > > > > > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder
> > > pedals together, and makes
> > > > it
> > > > > a
> > > > > > closed loop system, and keeping things
> > pretty
> > > standard. If there isn't
> > > > > > room
> > > > > > going toward the firewall, I'll just put
> the
> > > pulley toward the spar.
> > > > > Then
> > > > > > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on
> > my
> > > side and weld a tube at
> > > > > > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a
> hoop
> > > over the top of my foot
> > > > for
> > > > > > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2
> > hand
> > > brakes for stopping by
> > > > > > using
> > > > > > them together or independently for
> > > differential braking. Do you think
> > > > > > this
> > > > > > could do the trick? Most are saying I
> should
> > > go with a nose dragger
> > > > and
> > > > > > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself.
>
> > I
> > > hate to give up and
> > > > > > occasional
> > > > > > roll or loop, but I really need the plane
> > for
> > > X country to visit my
> > > > kids
> > > > > > scattered about the US and of course I
> love
> > > flying and building things
> > > > > > (RC).
> > > > > > I will draw this up and send it to Van
> with
> > > all the Caveats' just to
> > > > > make
> > > > > > sure that tying the pedals together won't
> > > create a problem with
> > > > flutter
> > > > > or
> > > > > > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel
> > versus
> > > tail wheel? Thanks
> > > > again
> > > > > > for
> > > > > > your advice. Regards Carl
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Carl W Bell
> > > > > > New Venture Consulting
> > > > > > Office: 803.648.3407
> > > > > > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > > > > > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > > > > > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > > > >
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of glen matejcek
> > > > > > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > > > > > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > > > > > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg
> > flyer
> > > > > >
> > matejcek"
> > > > <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Carl-
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Since you asked....
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more
> room
> > to
> > > make system mods than a
> > > > > 4,
> > > > > > or probably a 9.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I believe that you are correct, a TD will
> > give
> > > you positive steering
> > > > > > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If you are not already a conventional gear
> > > aviator, this may pose an
> > > > > > additional challenge, although I'm
> guessing
> > > additional challenges are
> > > > a
> > > > > > way
> > > > > > of life for you.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint
> > from
> > > the serious acro world
> > > > > and
> > > > > > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's
> shoe
> > > locks, or whatever they
> > > > are
> > > > > > properly called. These are fittings on
> the
> > > bottoms of the racer's
> > > > shoes
> > > > > > that lock into mating fittings on the
> > bicycle
> > > pedals. In the acro
> > > > > world,
> > > > > > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders
> > > while doing hard acro. In
> > > > > your
> > > > > > case, it should allow you to push a rudder
> > > pedal with your prosthesis.
> > > > > > This should afford you the same rudder
> > control
> > > ability as anyone else.
> > > > > > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot,
> it
> > > would allow you to fly
> > > > the
> > > > > > plane without modifications to the
> > prosthesis.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There are aircraft in the world that use a
> > > bicycle-style hand brake
> > > > > lever
> > > > > > mounted on the control stick. With such
> an
> > > arrangement, you would
> > > > > operate
> > > > > > both brakes without having to do a major
> > grip
> > > switch on landing, as
> > > > > > opposed
> > > > > > to what would happen if you employed a
> > Johnson
> > > bar type arrangement.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Another option would be to have a 'normal'
> > > master cylinder for the
> > > > 'good
> > > > > > foot' operate both brakes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > In each of the above, there are potential
> > > issues with a lack of enough
> > > > > > mechanical advantage to afford adequate
> > > braking with the travel
> > > > > available,
> > > > > > but they are starting points.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > For differential braking, there have been
> > > aircraft that were built
> > > > with
> > > > > a
> > > > > > selector valve of sorts incorporated into
> > the
> > > rudder control system
> > > > and
> > > > > > one
> > > > > > separate brake master cylinder. With such
> a
> > > system, to get right
> > > > brake
> > > > > > you
> > > > > > apply right rudder and then operate the
> > brake
> > > lever. I'm sorry, at
> > > > the
> > > > > > moment I can't think of which aircraft had
> > > that arrangement, but if
> > > > you
> > > > > > like I could pester some geezers I know to
> > see
> > > if they recall.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel.
>
> > I
> > > suspect you would find
> > > > > this
> > > > > > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW
> > > lock to the control stick
> > > > > such
> > > > > > that when the stick is full aft against
> the
> > > stop, the TW is unlocked.
> > > > > > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would
> > lock
> > > the TW for T/O and Ldg.
> > > > > > Hard
> > > > > > against the stop would unlock it for tight
> > > ground maneuvering. This
> > > > > > configuration has also been used in the
> > past.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Another option for brake power would be a
> > > separate lever on the
> > > > throttle
> > > > > > side. This lever could operate both
> brakes
> > as
> > > outlined above, or
> > > > could
> > > > > > operate the left brake while your right
> foot
> > > operated the right brake.
> > > > > > The
> > > > > > latter configuration could be cause for
> > > confusion and error when
> > > > things
> > > > > > start happening quickly. Either
> arrangement
> > > would allow for full use
> > > > of
> > > > > > the aerodynamic controls at the same time
> as
> > > the brake, but would mean
> > > > > > either brake or throttle, which is of
> course
> > > sub-optimal.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > As I type this, it occurs to me that
> perhaps
> > a
> > > system could be
> > > > fashioned
> > > > > > that would incorporate a motorcycle or
> > > helicopter type twist grip on
> > > > the
> > > > > > throttle lever for brake operation.
> Again,
> > > mechanical advantage would
> > > > > > likely be an issue. The corollary idea
> > would
> > > be to have a throttle-
> > > > > > looking
> > > > > > lever where pulling the lever aft powered
> > the
> > > brakes and twisting the
> > > > > > locking grip operated the throttle. This
> > > could work well for you, but
> > > > > > would be a human factors trap for anyone
> > else
> > > who flew in that seat.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > A separate design goal might be that
> > whatever
> > > you do, you do it such
> > > > > that
> > > > > > returning to a 'normal' configuration is
> > > relatively easy. This would
> > > > > pay
> > > > > > off should you decide to sell the
> aircraft.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lastly, you might do a little research and
> > > find an aerobatic aircraft
> > > > > > and/or school equipped with the foot
> latches
> > > and give them a try.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > glen matejcek
> > > > > > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > browse
> > > Subscriptions page,
> > > FAQ,
> > >
> > > Web Forums!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Web Forums!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
I think he means a Lycoming "clone" like from ECI.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintenance
and fiddling in the long run. There are TRUE BELEIVER and they
will tell you that there Mazda or Subaru is the greatest thing but
when you really crunch the numbers it does not add up. However
if you want to be DIFFERENT, for the sake of being unique than
by all means. What is the resale on auto engine RV's? What is
the resale on a Lyc powered RV? Huge difference. Nuff Said.
Sam James makes short cowls now.
Yes you can do mild aerobatics with the extended hub. Going
back to your alternative engine question, forget hydraulic constant
speed pops and frankly aerobatics if you went that route.
I could write a book on your questions but make it simple for
your self, FOLLOW THE PLANS: LYC+HARTZELL or SENSENICH.
Yes you must fly within limits. The extended hartzell is 3.8 g's
If you know what you are doing 3 gs is enough to do acro. My
old RV-4 had the same prop and logged +1000 hours, a large
part looping and rolling with no issues.
Charlie there is piles of info on the topic do some research, good
luck
George
>From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>Subject: RV-List: RV-7 engine/prop options
>
>I have a couple of questions about engine choices.
>
>If you have used an 'alternative' engine builder to build your
>experimental Lyc engine, what was your experience (positive or
>negative)?
>
>and,
>
>Has anyone on the list used an extended hub Hartzell prop (as needed
for
>some of the James cowls)? If so, do you feel comfortable doing mild
>'RV-acro' with the prop? The model I have available is an HC-F2YR hub
>with F7666-4 blades. I'm willing to deal with the cowl issues but I'm
>not willing to give up the occasional loop & roll.
>
>Thanks, Charlie ceengland@bellsouth.net
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Right. To be more specific, I'm interested in engines from builders who
normally build converted a/c engines for non-aviation applications,
rather than converted auto engines for a/c use. If you're flying one of
these engines, you know who you are. ;-) I have one data point from a
very satisfied user; I'd like to hear more opinions from those who've
gone that route.
I've also gotten one off-list email from someone who's having a bad
experience with one of the premier a/c engine builders in the USA.
This is motivation to look at a builder who's trustworthy, builds *lots*
of engines (& sees how they react to extreme abuse), & can build a
non-certified engine to new limits from yellow tagged parts.
So, who's out there? Off list is fine, if you don't want to go public
with your 'sin'.
Thanks,
Charlie
Ron Lee wrote:
> I think he means a Lycoming "clone" like from ECI.
>
> Ron Lee
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com <mailto:gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, April 23, 2007 4:36 PM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
>
> Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
> lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintenance
> and fiddling in the long run. There are TRUE BELEIVER and they
> will tell you that there Mazda or Subaru is the greatest thing but
> when you really crunch the numbers it does not add up. However
> if you want to be DIFFERENT, for the sake of being unique than
> by all means. What is the resale on auto engine RV's? What is
> the resale on a Lyc powered RV? Huge difference. Nuff Said.
>
> Sam James makes short cowls now.
>
> Yes you can do mild aerobatics with the extended hub. Going
> back to your alternative engine question, forget hydraulic constant
> speed pops and frankly aerobatics if you went that route.
>
> I could write a book on your questions but make it simple for
> your self, FOLLOW THE PLANS: LYC+HARTZELL or SENSENICH.
>
> Yes you must fly within limits. The extended hartzell is 3.8 g's
> If you know what you are doing 3 gs is enough to do acro. My
> old RV-4 had the same prop and logged +1000 hours, a large
> part looping and rolling with no issues.
>
> Charlie there is piles of info on the topic do some research, good luck
>
> George
>
>
>
>
> >From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
> >Subject: RV-List: RV-7 engine/prop options
> >
> >I have a couple of questions about engine choices.
> >
> >If you have used an 'alternative' engine builder to build your
> >experimental Lyc engine, what was your experience (positive or
> >negative)?
> >
> >and,
> >
> >Has anyone on the list used an extended hub Hartzell prop (as needed
> for
> >some of the James cowls)? If so, do you feel comfortable doing mild
> >'RV-acro' with the prop? The model I have available is an HC-F2YR hub
> >with F7666-4 blades. I'm willing to deal with the cowl issues but I'm
> >not willing to give up the occasional loop & roll.
> >
> >Thanks, Charlie ceengland@bellsouth.net
> <mailto:ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Dan,
Well I would love to see and fly in the 10 and flying it is a good way to
wring out the little bugs. We have a guest room and hopefully I'll have a
good start on the 7A. Regards Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 9:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
I previously owned a Cherokee 140, and it had the brake you are talking
about. The one from Matco is what most Rv'ers use, and it only holds the
pressure after you apply it from the pedals. If you could modify the
Cherokee, or use the sand rail differential braking I think that would
be the best.
My 10 should be up and flying in the next month or so, and shortly there
after I will gladly come down and give you a demo ride, so you can see
the 10 with an Eggenfellner in action.
I am only a short hope away up in PA.
Dan Lloyd
N289DT RV10E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 9:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Dan,
I don't know what they use in the Cherokees, but you can pull on it and
it
loads both mains, then if you push the button it locks the brake in the
pulled position and acts as a parking brake. If need be I'll get one of
them from Piper. I am not familiar with the Matco, but I will check it
out
and see what is available. Thanks for the heads up. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
One thing to keep in mind is that the parking brake by Matco that is
commonly used on RV's is for holding pressure that already has been
applied, IE it is an open and close valve not a pressure piston for
stopping, so you would have to use something to apply the pressure.
Dan
N289DT
RV10E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Tim,
I think you are right, I found those on the site from what you had
previously sent. Are many RV'ers using a parking brakes or just tie
downs
and chocks? I feel pretty comfortable I can put a safe conversion in
place
now, I may have to play with it a little, but this should be easier that
flying the Cherokee dancing between pedals and pulling the panel parking
brake. Thanks a lot. Which RV are you fling BTW. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
Carl,
Now that I think about this, a dual handle control would be better.
They
are two handles side by side that both pull either back or forward
depending
on how you install it. I was originally thinking of space, but with two
handles you could pull them both back at once for regular braking.
Still
easy to install, etc but about they are about an inch wider.
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/tcbh/buggytcbh2.htm
two thirds of the way down the page.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> Tim,
>
> Wow that's perfect, that will work well. I'll just use a standard
locking
> parking brake cylinder for both and of course for parking on the
bottom of
> the panel, aka Cherokee. Thanks, Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
>
>
> You might consider a push-pull hand lever that is hydraulic operated.
> These
> are quite common in sand rails for brake turning. Pull to go left and
> push
> to go right. Simple to operate, simple to install, and does not need
to
> interfere with the standard foot brakes.
>
http://www.mooreparts.com/JAMCB1.html?zmam=2626912&zmas=5&zmac &zmap=J
AM
> CB
> 1
>
> paste the link back together if it is on two lines.
>
> They make these with two handles as well.
>
> Good luck to you
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:40 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> >
> > Hi Glen;
> >
> > Thank you for all of your input; you have some really great ideas,
> > especially the bicycle shoe lock. I think I can make this a very
simple
> > modification by using a cable and pulley in the middle of a RV 7 or
9
> > rudder
> > pedal setup that basically ties the rudder pedals together, and
makes it
> a
> > closed loop system, and keeping things pretty standard. If there
isn't
> > room
> > going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
> Then
> > I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube
at
> > midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot
for
> > pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping
by
> > using
> > them together or independently for differential braking. Do you
think
> > this
> > could do the trick? Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger
and
> > preferably a 9A which almost lands itself. I hate to give up and
> > occasional
> > roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my
kids
> > scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building
things
> > (RC).
> > I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to
> make
> > sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with
flutter
> or
> > something. Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel? Thanks
again
> > for
> > your advice. Regards Carl
> >
> > Carl W Bell
> > New Venture Consulting
> > Office: 803.648.3407
> > Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > carlbell@gforcecable.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen
matejcek
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:27 AM
> > To: RV-List Digest Server
> > Subject: RV-List: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer
> >
<aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Hi Carl-
> >
> > Since you asked....
> >
> > Obviously, a 7 or 8 will give you more room to make system mods than
a
> 4,
> > or probably a 9.
> >
> > I believe that you are correct, a TD will give you positive steering
> > control whereas a nose dragger will not.
> >
> > If you are not already a conventional gear aviator, this may pose an
> > additional challenge, although I'm guessing additional challenges
are a
> > way
> > of life for you.
> >
> > WRT rudder operation, I would take a hint from the serious acro
world
> and
> > figure out a way to use bicycle racer's shoe locks, or whatever they
are
> > properly called. These are fittings on the bottoms of the racer's
shoes
> > that lock into mating fittings on the bicycle pedals. In the acro
> world,
> > this keeps the pilots feet on the rudders while doing hard acro. In
> your
> > case, it should allow you to push a rudder pedal with your
prosthesis.
> > This should afford you the same rudder control ability as anyone
else.
> > Assuming you have a full prosthetic foot, it would allow you to fly
the
> > plane without modifications to the prosthesis.
> >
> > There are aircraft in the world that use a bicycle-style hand brake
> lever
> > mounted on the control stick. With such an arrangement, you would
> operate
> > both brakes without having to do a major grip switch on landing, as
> > opposed
> > to what would happen if you employed a Johnson bar type arrangement.
> >
> > Another option would be to have a 'normal' master cylinder for the
'good
> > foot' operate both brakes.
> >
> > In each of the above, there are potential issues with a lack of
enough
> > mechanical advantage to afford adequate braking with the travel
> available,
> > but they are starting points.
> >
> > For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built
with
> a
> > selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system
and
> > one
> > separate brake master cylinder. With such a system, to get right
brake
> > you
> > apply right rudder and then operate the brake lever. I'm sorry, at
the
> > moment I can't think of which aircraft had that arrangement, but if
you
> > like I could pester some geezers I know to see if they recall.
> >
> > Yet another option is a locking tailwheel. I suspect you would find
> this
> > an inferior set up, but you could rig a TW lock to the control stick
> such
> > that when the stick is full aft against the stop, the TW is
unlocked.
> > Moving the stick say, an inch fwd, would lock the TW for T/O and
Ldg.
> > Hard
> > against the stop would unlock it for tight ground maneuvering. This
> > configuration has also been used in the past.
> >
> > Another option for brake power would be a separate lever on the
throttle
> > side. This lever could operate both brakes as outlined above, or
could
> > operate the left brake while your right foot operated the right
brake.
> > The
> > latter configuration could be cause for confusion and error when
things
> > start happening quickly. Either arrangement would allow for full
use of
> > the aerodynamic controls at the same time as the brake, but would
mean
> > either brake or throttle, which is of course sub-optimal.
> >
> > As I type this, it occurs to me that perhaps a system could be
fashioned
> > that would incorporate a motorcycle or helicopter type twist grip on
the
> > throttle lever for brake operation. Again, mechanical advantage
would
> > likely be an issue. The corollary idea would be to have a throttle-
> > looking
> > lever where pulling the lever aft powered the brakes and twisting
the
> > locking grip operated the throttle. This could work well for you,
but
> > would be a human factors trap for anyone else who flew in that seat.
> >
> > A separate design goal might be that whatever you do, you do it such
> that
> > returning to a 'normal' configuration is relatively easy. This
would
> pay
> > off should you decide to sell the aircraft.
> >
> > Lastly, you might do a little research and find an aerobatic
aircraft
> > and/or school equipped with the foot latches and give them a try.
> >
> > glen matejcek
> > aerobubba@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Looking for advice--final update |
Guys: Re the looking for advice on the FSDO dude inspecting my -9A.
Pre-inspection on last Wednesday caused heartburn as the inspector had
serious doubts about certified engine with Van's experimental prop by
Sensenich, non-TSO equipment bolted to engine, wanting A&P to sign off prop
install, do complete AD review on engine and sign off as completed,
experimental sign embroidered on upholstery on baggage compartment bulkhead
and not immediately by each entrance, and finally a 25 mile radius Phase 1
test area. Oh, and to make the situation more simple I could make the
certified engine experimental by removing and destroying the ID plate in
front of the inspector. After reading the emails giving good advice and
talking to EAA AB DAR instructor, my local technical representative and my
A&P buddy, I was ready for the final inspection this Monday morning at 0900.
I had FAA manuals, documentation, and EAA training materials all ready to
refute each and every item I thought the inspector was incorrect on. Damn,
he walked in this morning and said in one breath, "the engine is ok, the
embroidered experimental is ok, and you can have the 100NM radius you
requested, lets finish the paperwork and get you flying". I still don't
know what happened. I just want to say thanks to you guys and the EAA for
the support. I learned more stuff than I wanted to know about amateur built
airworthiness that I ever wanted to know. For instance, did you know you
don't need and ELT while in Phase 1 testing? Lots of neat info in them
there manuals. Thanks, Dan
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Why not do it yourself? It's not difficult or hard, nor requires many
special tools. Buy the overhaul manual, buy the parts and "get 'er done"!
One thing I would stay away from is several of the airboat builders - don't
know specifically names, but I've seen plenty of their "handiwork" and have
not yet been overly impressed. One such engine just cost one of my
employees BIG TIME in $$'s and pain in the rear. Engine was "new" by an
airboat builder. I have the remains on the floor of my shop. Not just
substandard, but downright scary (mismatched rods, butchered crank,
mismatched cyliners, mismatched pistons, the list goes on and on).
That being said, there are a ton of shops around the country that overhaul
lyc's and do a great job, as well as a ton of A&P's / builders who've done a
lot of engines. Depending on where you are in the country you'll find
plenty!
Anyway, in the end I'd just stick with a known quantity (read
AVIATION/AIRPLANE guys/shop). It's going to cost you "X" $$'s to get one
done no matter who does it, so saving a few pennies is one of those things
that can be "Pennywise and .....". It's not like you can do it for half
price, so my advice is to just bite the bullet and buy from a known aviation
person/shop/mfgr. Be it used, new, overhauled, reman or whatever. You're
going to spend 90% to get anything, so spend the extra 10% and get it right.
No worries and night wondering....
Or, like I said do it yourself. It's fun, easy and will save you just as
much as having some stranger do it for you.
Cheers,
Stein
RV6, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
Right. To be more specific, I'm interested in engines from builders who
normally build converted a/c engines for non-aviation applications,
rather than converted auto engines for a/c use. If you're flying one of
these engines, you know who you are. ;-) I have one data point from a
very satisfied user; I'd like to hear more opinions from those who've
gone that route.
I've also gotten one off-list email from someone who's having a bad
experience with one of the premier a/c engine builders in the USA.
This is motivation to look at a builder who's trustworthy, builds *lots*
of engines (& sees how they react to extreme abuse), & can build a
non-certified engine to new limits from yellow tagged parts.
So, who's out there? Off list is fine, if you don't want to go public
with your 'sin'.
Thanks,
Charlie
Ron Lee wrote:
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
Linn,
What experimental GAMI Clones???? How bout a name and web site please.
Reuven Silberman
7A IO360 CS
Point made. I was addressing more normal operation. If you're prone to
doing aerobatics without inverted systems ..... maybe a crankcase vent
routed to the tail is in order. My biggest gripe with the separators
(all of them) is the modification to get the recovered oil back into the
engine and the acids that get recirculated also. The more wear on the
engine, the worse that crap gets. Most separator users follow the
instructions and return the recovered stuff to the engine and never see
what's being recovered. I have. It's nasty.
Linn
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Linn I agree with what you say about the need for an oil separator but
> another way for oil to get to the bottom side of our airplanes is
> doing aerobatics
> with out an inverted oils system. There does not necessarily have to
> be anything wrong with the engine to have oil on the bottom side.
>
> Do not archive
>
> linn Walters wrote:
>
>> Garry wrote:
>>
>>> I spent a full day walking around the vendor booths at Sun N'Fun
>>> yesterday, and found some interesting sales pitches. A few of the
>>> items actually caught my interest............Air Wolf air/oil
>>> separator,
>>
>>
>> Save your money. If you have a problem with oil on the belly, try
>> lowering the oil level one or two quarts. If it's due to blow by
>> .... you need to do a top .... the rings are shot. Some oil may be
>> going past the valves too. If you decide to waste your money ....
>> it's a cover-up for things that are wrong ..... stick the 'return'
>> hose down in a can that you can empty ..... not back to the engione.
>>
>>> GAMI fuel injectors,
>>
>>
>> Good idea .... but there's an 'experimental' version out there that
>> will do the same thing at less cost.
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>>> and 4 into 1 Exhaust systems. I'd appreciate any feedback from
>>> the group as to the value of these items, if indeed I should even
>>> consider them, and what real world experience folks might have with
>>> using them.
>>>
>>> Garry Stout
>>> RV-7A IO-360
>>> Tampa, Florida
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>
>
"No pressure, no diamonds".
~Thomas Carlyle
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