Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 AM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (RAS)
2. 03:36 AM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (Neal George)
3. 03:57 AM - Re: Fuel dripping down carbureator at idle cutoff (T.C. Chang)
4. 04:14 AM - Oil Temperature High (Francis Malczynski)
5. 04:48 AM - Re: Oil Temperature High (RAS)
6. 05:17 AM - Re: Looking for advice--final update (Chuck Jensen)
7. 05:37 AM - Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Mark Sletten)
8. 06:11 AM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (Dwight Frye)
9. 06:13 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Jeff Dowling)
10. 06:13 AM - Re: Looking for advice--final update (Tim Bryan)
11. 06:13 AM - Re: Oil Temperature High (Jeff Dowling)
12. 06:13 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Jeff Dowling)
13. 06:32 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (RAS)
14. 06:33 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Bob)
15. 06:34 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
16. 06:39 AM - Re: Oil Temperature High (n801bh@netzero.com)
17. 06:47 AM - Re: Looking for advice--final update (n801bh@netzero.com)
18. 07:07 AM - Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (glen matejcek)
19. 07:10 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (n801bh@netzero.com)
20. 07:14 AM - Re: ELT Misfire.. Main solenoid (David Leonard)
21. 07:15 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (n801bh@netzero.com)
22. 07:32 AM - Re: Looking for advice--final update (Kevin Horton)
23. 07:54 AM - More data (Wheeler North)
24. 08:10 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (carlos)
25. 08:43 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Tracy Crook)
26. 09:37 AM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (linn Walters)
27. 10:22 AM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (Deems Davis)
28. 10:37 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
29. 10:39 AM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (Chuck Jensen)
30. 10:40 AM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
31. 10:55 AM - Re: User Fees and Patriotism (N395V)
32. 11:15 AM - Re: Oil Temperature High (Ed Holyoke)
33. 11:47 AM - Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
34. 12:09 PM - Re: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options (Bob)
35. 01:04 PM - Orndorff videos for sale (McFarland, Randy)
36. 02:20 PM - Re: User Fees and Patriotism (Bob Collins)
37. 03:32 PM - Re: User Fees and Patriotism (N395V)
38. 03:39 PM - Re: Oil Temperature High (Kyle Boatright)
39. 03:47 PM - Re: User Fees and Patriotism (Bob Collins)
40. 04:19 PM - Re: Oil Temperature High (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
41. 04:31 PM - Re: Re: User Fees and Patriotism (Terry Watson)
42. 06:43 PM - Can't remember who or find in archives (Dan Ross)
43. 07:27 PM - Re: Re: RV Advice, one leg flyer (Carl Bell)
44. 07:36 PM - Re: Brake pedal bolts...Can't remember who or find in archives (William Gill)
45. 07:42 PM - Videos (Patrick Kelley)
46. 09:10 PM - Sun N Fun pictures (cgomez)
47. 09:40 PM - Re: Re: User Fees and Patriotism (Mickey Coggins)
48. 10:03 PM - Re: Can't remember who or find in archives (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
49. 10:50 PM - Re: Oil Temperature High (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
> For differential braking, there have been aircraft that were built with a
> selector valve of sorts incorporated into the rudder control system and
> one
> separate brake master cylinder.
the De Havilland DH 104 Dove/Devon has such a system. The brakes however are
pneumatic. Give full rudder in the direction you wish to go and push the
lever on the yoke, it's quite weird at the start as your aircraft sounds a
bit like a 18 wheeler when you release the brakes!
Incidently the gear and flaps also operate on pneumatics, the only hydraulic
system operates the windscreen wipers!
do not archive
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
Reuven -
I suspect Linn's referring to Airflow Performance. If you buzz over to
Spartanburg, they'll tune your fuel system while you watch or help, run you
thru the factory and give you a seminar on fuel systems.
http://www.airflowperformance.com/
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (Cowling...at last)
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Reuven Silberman
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"?
Linn,
What experimental GAMI Clones???? How bout a name and web site please.
Reuven Silberman
7A IO360 CS
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel dripping down carbureator at idle cutoff |
Thanks.
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, Dual Mag, Sensenich FP
GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 138 Hobbs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel dripping down carbureator at idle cutoff
T.C. Chang wrote:
>
> Two weeks ago I reported that I had fuel dripping down the carburetor
> at idle cutoff. Today I did more testing and the situation got worse.
> It happens only at idle when I began to pull the mixture control out.
> Called Aero Sport Power and talked to Bart. He immediately said that
> was a heavy float problem and promised to Fed Exp a replacement
> carburetor to me. I am still puzzled as why a heavy (leaking?) float
> will cause the fuel to spill out at idle cutoff. After engine stops,
> turning on electric fuel pump does not cause any fuel leak. Before
> this problem began, I was not able to adjust the idle mixture to get
> rpm rise at idle cutoff. Today I was almost not able to shut down the
> engine. As I pull the mixture control out, the engine went up more
> than 400 rpm! This is after I turned the idle mixture screw all the
> way in.
>
> Ted
>
If the float sinks, the bowl will try to over-fill with fuel because the
float isn't closing the inlet valve when the bowl is full. It could run
ok (but rich) if the float hasn't sunk much, but at idle it would run
very rich. Pulling the mixture would lean back to ideal mixture & rpm
would rise significantly.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil Temperature High |
My friend is test flying an RV6 fuel injected 0320. At 75% power runs ie:
engine break-in, he is seeing oil temperatures in the 210 220- range. This
is with an OAT of 34 degrees. He has a firewall mounted oil cooler and used
the vans kit for installation, which utilizes a 3 scat duct. His feeling
is that this is not enough airflow through the cooler and because the cooler
plenum (shroud) is so squat that not enough air is being distributed across
the entire face off the oil cooler. Any thoughts on thisThanks
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature High |
Hi,
Those temps are fine for an engine that is being run in. Red line is
about 245F. Once he has a few hours on the engine and it loosens up a
bit the temps will come down a bit.
It's not something that would worry me.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: Francis Malczynski
To: RV-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperature High
My friend is test flying an RV6 fuel injected 0320. At 75% power runs
ie: engine break-in, he is seeing oil temperatures in the 210 ' 220-
range. This is with an OAT of 34 degrees. He has a firewall mounted oil
cooler and used the van=92s kit for installation, which utilizes a 3=94
scat duct. His feeling is that this is not enough airflow through the
cooler and because the cooler plenum (shroud) is so squat that not
enough air is being distributed across the entire face off the oil
cooler. Any thoughts on this=85Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Looking for advice--final update |
Dan,
One may not need an ELT during Phase 1 testing, but for the life of me,
I can imagine why I wouldn't want one....especially during testing and
the known high risks associated the first few flights and specifically,
the first two. That's how regs work---they tell us what we have to
have, but not what we should have.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Ross
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 12:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Looking for advice--final update
Guys: Re the looking for advice on the FSDO dude inspecting my -9A.
Pre-inspection on last Wednesday caused heartburn as the inspector had
serious doubts about certified engine with Van's experimental prop by
Sensenich, non-TSO equipment bolted to engine, wanting A&P to sign off
prop install, do complete AD review on engine and sign off as completed,
experimental sign embroidered on upholstery on baggage compartment
bulkhead and not immediately by each entrance, and finally a 25 mile
radius Phase 1 test area. Oh, and to make the situation more simple I
could make the certified engine experimental by removing and destroying
the ID plate in front of the inspector. After reading the emails
giving good advice and talking to EAA AB DAR instructor, my local
technical representative and my A&P buddy, I was ready for the final
inspection this Monday morning at 0900. I had FAA manuals,
documentation, and EAA training materials all ready to refute each and
every item I thought the inspector was incorrect on. Damn, he walked in
this morning and said in one breath, "the engine is ok, the embroidered
experimental is ok, and you can have the 100NM radius you requested,
lets finish the paperwork and get you flying". I still don't know what
happened. I just want to say thanks to you guys and the EAA for the
support. I learned more stuff than I wanted to know about amateur built
airworthiness that I ever wanted to know. For instance, did you know
you don't need and ELT while in Phase 1 testing? Lots of neat info in
them there manuals. Thanks, Dan
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com said:
Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintenance
and fiddling in the long run.
Is that authoritative, expert advice... or just one man's opinion?
One person may satisfy himself the above statement is true, while another
may find just the opposite.
Blanket declarations like this are almost always found to be lacking when a
few intelligent questions are asked...
Mark
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
I don't know if it is what Linn was talking about, but I know that
Airflow Performance (in Spartanburg, SC) will work with folks to
juggle the flow restrictors in the injector nozzles to flow balance
the system.
This is done by taking data during test flights, making adjustments
to the appropriate nozzles, then test flying again to check the results.
Iterate a few times to zero in on getting the balance as close as
possible .... and you are good to go.
Don Rivera at API can work with you remotely (i.e. you test fly, take
your data, talk with them about making adjustments, and they send you
new flow restrictors) or you can fly to API and they'll work with you
there to get it nailed down. The downside of doing it remotely is, if
I am not mistaken, you end up buying a few restrictors you don't end
up using as you iterate through the test process. The actual swapping
of the flow restrictors is a trivial operation.
If Linn had something else in mind, I'll be interested in hearing about
it too.
-- Dwight
On Tue Apr 24 02:08:14 2007, Reuven Silberman wrote :
>Linn,
>
>What experimental GAMI Clones???? How bout a name and web site please.
>
>Reuven Silberman
>7A IO360 CS
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Just got back from sun n fun and sat in the mattituck engine
teardown/rebuild classes for 3 days in a row. The guy giving the class on
the O-360 was excellent. He put the entire engine together including
torqueing all the bolts in about 5 hours. He explained everything he was
doing, what lubricants to use, and what tolerances to look for. Excellent
class. They even give you a t shirt just for staying and listening. Thats
a good hook for pilots, free.
Anyway, if you can wait until Oshkosh, I recommend going to one of there
classes. You'll learn a ton. They share a tent with Continental/Teledyne.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
300+ hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:28 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
>
> Why not do it yourself? It's not difficult or hard, nor requires many
> special tools. Buy the overhaul manual, buy the parts and "get 'er done"!
> One thing I would stay away from is several of the airboat builders -
> don't
> know specifically names, but I've seen plenty of their "handiwork" and
> have
> not yet been overly impressed. One such engine just cost one of my
> employees BIG TIME in $$'s and pain in the rear. Engine was "new" by an
> airboat builder. I have the remains on the floor of my shop. Not just
> substandard, but downright scary (mismatched rods, butchered crank,
> mismatched cyliners, mismatched pistons, the list goes on and on).
>
> That being said, there are a ton of shops around the country that overhaul
> lyc's and do a great job, as well as a ton of A&P's / builders who've done
> a
> lot of engines. Depending on where you are in the country you'll find
> plenty!
>
> Anyway, in the end I'd just stick with a known quantity (read
> AVIATION/AIRPLANE guys/shop). It's going to cost you "X" $$'s to get one
> done no matter who does it, so saving a few pennies is one of those things
> that can be "Pennywise and .....". It's not like you can do it for half
> price, so my advice is to just bite the bullet and buy from a known
> aviation
> person/shop/mfgr. Be it used, new, overhauled, reman or whatever. You're
> going to spend 90% to get anything, so spend the extra 10% and get it
> right.
> No worries and night wondering....
>
> Or, like I said do it yourself. It's fun, easy and will save you just as
> much as having some stranger do it for you.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
>
> RV6, Minneapolis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:00 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
>
>
>
> Right. To be more specific, I'm interested in engines from builders who
> normally build converted a/c engines for non-aviation applications,
> rather than converted auto engines for a/c use. If you're flying one of
> these engines, you know who you are. ;-) I have one data point from a
> very satisfied user; I'd like to hear more opinions from those who've
> gone that route.
>
> I've also gotten one off-list email from someone who's having a bad
> experience with one of the premier a/c engine builders in the USA.
>
> This is motivation to look at a builder who's trustworthy, builds *lots*
> of engines (& sees how they react to extreme abuse), & can build a
> non-certified engine to new limits from yellow tagged parts.
>
> So, who's out there? Off list is fine, if you don't want to go public
> with your 'sin'.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
> Ron Lee wrote:
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Looking for advice--final update |
Someone must have got to him. Good thing, and good luck Dan
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Ross
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Looking for advice--final update
Guys: Re the looking for advice on the FSDO dude inspecting my -9A.
Pre-inspection on last Wednesday caused heartburn as the inspector had
serious doubts about certified engine with Van's experimental prop by
Sensenich, non-TSO equipment bolted to engine, wanting A&P to sign off prop
install, do complete AD review on engine and sign off as completed,
experimental sign embroidered on upholstery on baggage compartment bulkhead
and not immediately by each entrance, and finally a 25 mile radius Phase 1
test area. Oh, and to make the situation more simple I could make the
certified engine experimental by removing and destroying the ID plate in
front of the inspector. After reading the emails giving good advice and
talking to EAA AB DAR instructor, my local technical representative and my
A&P buddy, I was ready for the final inspection this Monday morning at 0900.
I had FAA manuals, documentation, and EAA training materials all ready to
refute each and every item I thought the inspector was incorrect on. Damn,
he walked in this morning and said in one breath, "the engine is ok, the
embroidered experimental is ok, and you can have the 100NM radius you
requested, lets finish the paperwork and get you flying". I still don't
know what happened. I just want to say thanks to you guys and the EAA for
the support. I learned more stuff than I wanted to know about amateur built
airworthiness that I ever wanted to know. For instance, did you know you
don't need and ELT while in Phase 1 testing? Lots of neat info in them
there manuals. Thanks, Dan
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature High |
I had the exact same setup with an io360. Mine didnt cool much after
break in. I ended up putting the cooler on the rear baffle. I havent
heard many 320 temp problems though. Have him really, really check his
baffling for leaks. It makes a big difference. If that doesnt work, I
would just move it to the baffle and get it over with. At least that
way you know its as good as its going to get.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
300+ hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: Francis Malczynski
To: RV-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperature High
My friend is test flying an RV6 fuel injected 0320. At 75% power runs
ie: engine break-in, he is seeing oil temperatures in the 210 ' 220-
range. This is with an OAT of 34 degrees. He has a firewall mounted oil
cooler and used the van=92s kit for installation, which utilizes a 3=94
scat duct. His feeling is that this is not enough airflow through the
cooler and because the cooler plenum (shroud) is so squat that not
enough air is being distributed across the entire face off the oil
cooler. Any thoughts on this=85Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
This came directly from Van's during Sun n Fun
What engines to put in your rv
1. Lycoming
2. Lycoming clones
.......
second to last. Auto conversions
last. Rubber bands.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Sletten" <marknlisa@hometel.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 7:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
>
> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com said:
>
> Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
> lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintenance
> and fiddling in the long run.
>
>
> Is that authoritative, expert advice... or just one man's opinion?
>
> One person may satisfy himself the above statement is true, while another
> may find just the opposite.
>
> Blanket declarations like this are almost always found to be lacking when
> a
> few intelligent questions are asked...
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Mark,
the designer of the RV series says the best conversion is $8000 into a used
a lycoming.
The designer has been around for the experimental scene for a few decades
and has a 'bit' of experience...
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
> Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
> lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintenance
> and fiddling in the long run.
>
>Is that authoritative, expert advice... or just one man's opinion?
OK, I'll bite. For you alternative engine experts on the list, why
is an alternative engine lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to
build and less maintenance?
I personally fly a Lycoming, but would be interested in a 220 HP, 250
lb fully aerobatic (+10,-10 G) alternative engine with a constant
speed prop and inverted oil system (inverted cooling system?).
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Gotta disagree with the statement below. Each and every person needs to
look at what they are trying to accomplish. Alternative engines are comple
tely viable but they may not be better than a Lyc or Cont in all respects.
Remember, we are building our own aircraft for recreational and educationa
l reasons, not for production. We need more people that are willing to tak
e the plunge into the alternative world and come up with something new to k
eep this hobby interesting. I have to laugh at people that will pay $1000
or more for a product that could be recreated with maybe 10 hours and $50 b
ucks in materials. But hey, if you have the money more power to ya. Howeve
r if you are in this to build a airplane to sell, go play in the stock mark
et before you screw it up for the rest of us.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Limbo
Do not archive
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 5:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
Stay way from Alternative Engines
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature High |
For a fresh motor, 210-220 f is about perfect. Just my two cents worth
....
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net> wrote:
I had the exact same setup with an io360. Mine didnt cool much after br
eak in. I ended up putting the cooler on the rear baffle. I havent he
ard many 320 temp problems though. Have him really, really check his ba
ffling for leaks. It makes a big difference. If that doesnt work, I wo
uld just move it to the baffle and get it over with. At least that way
you know its as good as its going to get. Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
300+ hours
Chicago/Louisville----- Original Message ----- From: Francis Malczynski
emperature High
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:o
ffice" />
My friend is test flying an RV6 fuel injected 0320. At 75% power runs ie
: engine break-in, he is seeing oil temperatures in the 210 ' 220- ran
ge. This is with an OAT of 34 degrees. He has a firewall mounted oil coo
ler and used the van=92s kit for installation, which utilizes a 3=94 sca
t duct. His feeling is that this is not enough airflow through the coole
r and because the cooler plenum (shroud) is so squat that not enough air
is being distributed across the entire face off the oil cooler. Any tho
ughts on this=85Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums
========================
-========================
========================
========================
========================
=
<html><P>For a fresh motor, 210-220 f is about perfect. Just
my two cents worth....</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink
.net> wrote:<BR></P>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I had the exact same setup with an io36
0. Mine didnt cool much after break in. I ended u
p putting the cooler on the rear baffle. I havent heard many 320 t
emp problems though. Have him really, really check his baffling fo
r leaks. It makes a big difference. If that doesnt work, I w
ould just move it to the baffle and get it over with. At least tha
t way you know its as good as its going to get.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Shemp/Jeff Dowling<BR>RV-6A, N915JD<BR>
300+ hours<BR>Chicago/Louisville</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MA
RGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black">
<B>From:</B> <A title=ebbfmm@verizon.net href="mailto:ebbfmm@verizon
.net">Francis Malczynski</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=rv-list@matronics.
com href="mailto:rv-list@matronics.com">RV-List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, April 24, 2007 6:1
3 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RV-List: Oil Temperature
High</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN class=EmailStyle17><FONT face=Arial color
=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso
-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt"> <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:
schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></SPAN><
/P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN style
="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN style
="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.5in"><
SPAN class=EmailStyle16><FONT face=Arial color=black size=2><SPA
N style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0
pt">My friend is test flying an RV6 fuel injected 0320. At 75% power run
s ie: engine break-in, he is seeing oil temperatures in the 210 ' 220-
range. This is with an OAT of 34 degrees. He has a firewall mounted oil
cooler and used the van=92s kit for installation, which utilizes a 3=94
scat duct. His feeling is that this is not enough airflow through the c
ooler and because the cooler plenum (shroud) is so squat that not enough
air is being distributed across the entire face off the oil cooler. Any
thoughts on this=85Thanks<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN class=EmailStyle16><FONT face=Arial color
=black size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; ms
o-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=black size=2><SPAN sty
le="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-bidi-font-s
ize: 12.0pt">Fran Malczynski</SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Arial color=bla
ck size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: A
rial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p>
</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=black size=2><SPAN sty
le="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-bidi-font-s
ize: 12.0pt">RV6 - N594EF</SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Arial color=black
size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Aria
l; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-color-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></S
PAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=black size=2><SPAN sty
le="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-bidi-font-s
ize: 12.0pt">Olcott, NY</SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Arial color=black><S
PAN style="COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-color-alt: windowtext
"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT color=black><SPAN style="COLOR: black">&n
bsp;</SPAN></FONT><FONT color=black><SPAN style="COLOR: black; mso-c
olor-alt: windowtext"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV><PRE><B><FONT f
ace="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com</A>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier"
color=#000000 size=2>
========================
===========
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List</A>
========================
===========
tronics.com</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Looking for advice--final update |
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com> wrote:
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:of
fice" />
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Ross
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:03 PM
ice:smarttags" />rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Looking for advice--final update
amateur built airworthiness that I ever wanted to know. For instance, d
id you know you don=92t need and ELT while in Phase 1 testing? Lots of
neat info in them there manuals. Thanks, Dan
Yeah, the ELT deal is correct. If your plane can carry only one perso
========================
========================
========================
========================
====
<html><BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair.com<BR><BR
>-- "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com> wrote:<BR
><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:o
ffice" /><o:SmartTagType name="PersonName" namespaceuri="urn:schemas
-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagType>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN styl
e="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p></o:p></SPAN
></FONT></P><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN style="FONT-
SIZE: 12pt">
<HR tabIndex=-1 align=center width="100%" SIZE=2>
</SPAN></FONT></P>
<DIV style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP:
medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: blue
1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><B><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT
-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">From:</SPAN></FONT>
</B><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FA
MILY: Tahoma"> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
server@matronics.com] <B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">On Behalf Of
</SPAN></B>Dan Ross<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN>
</B> Monday, April 23, 2007 11:03 PM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: b
old">To:</SPAN></B> <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-m
icrosoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:PersonName w:st="on">rv-list@mat
ronics.com</st1:PersonName><BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subj
ect:</SPAN></B> RV-List: Looking for advice--final update</SPAN></FONT><
o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN style
="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZ
E: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">amateur built airworthiness that I ever wan
ted to know. For instance, did you know you don=92t need and ELT w
hile in Phase 1 testing? Lots of neat info in them there manuals.&
nbsp; Thanks, Dan<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P><PRE><B><FONT face="Cour
ier New" color=black size=2><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-S
IZE: 10pt; COLOR: black"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></B></PRE><PRE><
B><FONT face="Courier New" color=black size=2><SPAN style="FONT-
WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></F
ONT></B></PRE><PRE><B><FONT face="Courier New" color=black size=2>
<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; o: p></o:p></span></font><
/b></pre><pre><b><font
size=2 color=black face='Courier New'><span style=" Email -<o:p
Forum RV-List The - bsp; font-size:10.0pt;color:black;></SPAN></FONT></B
></PRE><PRE><B><FONT face="Courier New" color=black size=2><SPAN s
tyle="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; browse: p></o:p></span></font></b
></pre><pre><b><font
size=2 color=black face='Courier New'><span style=" font-size:10
.0pt;color:black; page,<o:p Subscriptions></SPAN></FONT></B></PRE><PRE><
B><FONT face="Courier New" color=black size=2><SPAN style="FONT-
SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; Chat: p></o:p></span></font></b></pre><pre><b>
<font
size=2 color=black face='Courier New'><span style=" font-size:10
.0pt;color:black; more:<o:p></SPAN></FONT></B></PRE><PRE><B><FONT face=
"Courier New" color=black size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COL
OR: black; href: 'http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List'>http://www
.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></b></pre><
pre><b><font
size=2 color=black face='Courier New'><span style=" font-size:10
.0pt;color:black;="================<o:
p"></SPAN></FONT></B></PRE><PRE><B><FONT face="Courier New" color=bl
ack size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; bsp: ; NEW: p
></o:p></span></font></b></pre><pre><b><font
size=2 color=black face='Courier New'><span style=" font-size:10
.0pt;color:black; Forums!<o:p Web></SPAN></FONT></B></PRE><PRE><B><FONT
face="Courier New" color=black size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10
pt; COLOR: black; href: 'http://forums.matronics.com'>http://forums.matr
onics.com</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></b></pre><pre><b><font
size=2 color=black face='Courier New'><span style=" font-size:10
.0pt;color:black;="================<o:
p"></SPAN></FONT></B></PRE><PRE><B><FONT face="Courier New" color=bl
ack size=2><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: b
lack"><o:p> Yeah, the ELT deal is correct. If your plane can carry
only one person a ELT is not required.</o:p></SPAN></FONT></B></PRE></DI
V></DIV><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=
2>
========================
===========
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List</A>
========================
===========
tronics.com</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
Hi Carl-
Sorry for the 'late' reply; I get the digest version of the list once a
day. Makes things less dynamic but keeps my ISP from freaking out over the
volume of traffic that sometimes occurs.
> If there isn't room
>going toward the firewall, I'll just put the pulley toward the spar.
I believe that would put you in the position of 'pushing' a cable.
>Then
>I'm thinking I will omit the toe brakes on my side and weld a tube at
>midpoint on the pedal for pushing and a hoop over the top of my foot for
>pulling (or maybe the bicycle clip) and 2 hand brakes for stopping by using
>them together or independently for differential braking. Do you think this
>could do the trick?
Well, it certainly could, but the loop will need to have enough slack to be
able to insert your foot. This same slack will create slop in your control
system. Next, your pelvis is blocked from movement by the seat back when
pushing, but when pulling I suspect you hip will twist to some extent.
This will introduce more slop into the system. Another point is that you
are very much stronger pushing that pulling with your foot. This
differential will cause you some issues. Of course, when pulling, you will
be applying force through a couple additional pulleys. This will introduce
a small amount of additional system friction, or drag, into the weak side
operation. The last item is human factors. You already know how to push
to turn. If your new system requires you to pull to turn, there may well
come a time when things start happening quickly, the law of Primacy kicks
in, and you have a problem. Were it me, I'd really pursue the bike pedal
and push/push option over the push/pull option.
Two hand brakes could work well indeed, but I'd recommend having them
configured such that it'd be very unlikely to accidentally slip and 'drop'
one at a critical time.
>Most are saying I should go with a nose dragger and
>preferably a 9A which almost lands itself.
How (unfortunately) predictable. I wouldn't listen to the nay sayers.
What is the real issue? Straight and level is straight and level. You
want acro? the 9 is out. All these planes fly much the same until the
wheels touch. The TD's are TD's, but they are on the civil end of the TD
spectrum. Recall all the responses from folks who know of -6's configured
for one or NO legs. I think most would admit that if there is any
difference in ground handling characteristics in RV's, the 6's are at the
sportier end. Get the plane you want, and master whatever you need to
master.
>I hate to give up and occasional
>roll or loop, but I really need the plane for X country to visit my kids
>scattered about the US and of course I love flying and building things
(RC).
7's and 8's are faster than 9's, even upside down.
>I will draw this up and send it to Van with all the Caveats' just to make
>sure that tying the pedals together won't create a problem with flutter or
>something.
What you're proposing won't have any more effect on flutter characteristics
than 2 feet on the pedals. It would be interesting to see what the legal
dept has to say about your ideas, though. Historically the company's
public position has been that mods are highly discouraged. Personally, I'd
seek out independent critique of my plans. There's an awful lot of
credentialed expertise on this list, mostly lurking. As is generally the
case though, those of us who are free with advice are charging precisely
what it's worth!
>Any thoughts on nose wheel versus tail wheel?
No. It was always a given for me. ; - ) Since (by definition) it's the
things we don't contemplate that surprise us, I suppose I'd consider ground
handling, like getting the plane in and out of the hangar. Does your
prosthesis impact your ability to drag a plane around? What about cockpit
entry and loading? The TD's sit nose up, and the ND's sit pretty level.
It's a higher step up to the ND's wing from the ground. Things like that
might have a significant impact on the ultimate enjoyment of your creation.
>Thanks again for
>your advice.
My pleasure. Despite the occasional furball here on the list, we're all
here to learn and share what we have learned.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Very well stated Michael. After all, all the homebuilts carry a "EXPERIM
ENTAL" sticker in it. Some of us just take that concept to a greater ext
ent then others.
An alternative engine is just another option.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
Gotta disagree with the statement below. Each and every person needs
to look at what they are trying to accomplish. Alternative engines are
completely viable but they may not be better than a Lyc or Cont in all r
espects. Remember, we are building our own aircraft for recreational an
d educational reasons, not for production. We need more people that are
willing to take the plunge into the alternative world and come up with
something new to keep this hobby interesting. I have to laugh at people
that will pay $1000 or more for a product that could be recreated with
maybe 10 hours and $50 bucks in materials. But hey, if you have the mon
ey more power to ya. However if you are in this to build a airplane to s
ell, go play in the stock market before you screw it up for the rest of
us.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office
:office" />
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Limbo
Do not archive
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 5:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
Stay way from Alternative Engines
========================
========================
========================
========================
=====================
<html><P>Very well stated Michael. After all, all the homebuilts carry a
"EXPERIMENTAL" sticker in it. Some of us just take that concept to a gr
eater extent then others.</P>
<P> An alternative engine is just another option.</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" &l
t;rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:<BR></P>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: #1f497d; FON
T-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'"> Gotta disagree with the stateme
nt below. Each and every person needs to look at what they are try
ing to accomplish. Alternative engines are completely viable but t
hey may not be better than a Lyc or Cont in all respects. Remember
, we are building our own aircraft for recreational and educational reas
ons, not for production. We need more people that are willing to t
ake the plunge into the alternative world and come up with something new
to keep this hobby interesting. I have to laugh at people that wi
ll pay $1000 or more for a product that could be recreated with maybe 10
hours and $50 bucks in materials. But hey, if you have the money
more power to ya. However if you are in this to build a airplane to sell
, go play in the stock market before you screw it up for the rest of us.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:of
fice" /><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: #1f497d; FON
T-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: #1f497d; FON
T-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'">Michael Sausen<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: #1f497d; FON
T-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'">RV-10 #352 Limbo<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: #1f497d; FON
T-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'">Do not archive<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: #1f497d; FON
T-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP:
#b5c4df 1pt solid; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT:
medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none">
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Ta
homa','sans-serif'">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT
-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'"> owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mai
lto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] <B>On Behalf Of </B>gmcjetpilot@
yahoo.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, April 23, 2007 5:37 PM<BR><B>To:</B> r
v-list@matronics.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop op
tions<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Stay way from Alternative Engines<SPAN style="COL
OR: black"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: #1f497d;
FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></B></P></D
IV><PRE><B><SPAN style="COLOR: black"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></B></PR
E></DIV><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=
2>
========================
===========
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List</A>
========================
===========
tronics.com</A>
========================
===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ELT Misfire.. Main solenoid |
I am sure the spike catchers would work too. Not sure why ACK recommended a
cap there instead of a diode except...
If you read Bob's stuff carefully, he has an article where he discourages
the use of spike catchers anywhere that failure of the diode could connect
the battery to ground. Such is the case with the diode on the main
contactor. If it fails closed, it will cause an short to ground.
I know these diodes are reliable, but there have been some instances where
they failed and started a fire. Apparently that is why certified
installations don't use them.
I am no gEEk either (no offense intended). I have no idea about the
likelihood of the diodes failing vs. switches wearing out. Not knowing what
to do, I left off the spike catchers off because 1) I don't mind burning
through master switches all day if it means reducing the likelihood of a
fire, 2) if these diodes are so critical why dont all the contactors come
with them? (turns out my starter solenoid has one built-in)... and in fact
E-Bob more stronly recommends them for starter contactors then master
battery contactors.
I'm not sure if a cap is any more reliable than a diode, but my guess is
that its failure mode is more likely to be open circuit rather than closed
like the diodes. So if it fixes my ELT problem I'll stick with it rather
than the diode... unless someone talks me out of it :-)
I am guessing that another fix of the ELT problem could include a resistor
in the 'test' circuit of the ELT remote.
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
www.RotaryRoster.net
On 4/23/07, Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote:
>
> Ah. Do you have "spike catching" diodes on your contactor(s)? The
> attached image shows a couple of diodes on my contactors.
>
> See the middle of this page:
> http://www.rvproject.com/20030526.html
>
> ...the top of this page:
> http://www.rvproject.com/20030528.html
>
> ...the middle of this page:
> http://www.rvproject.com/20030607.html
>
> ...and/or this photo/diagram:
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Contactors/s701-1.jpg
>
> Not sure if any of that is helpful, but if you don't have spike catching
> diodes on your contactors that could be the solution. I suspect a capacitor
> does the same thing just more "softly." I'm no electrical engineer!
>
> Hope this helps!
> )_( Dan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
> *To:* Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, April 23, 2007 11:12 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: ELT Misfire.. Main solenoid
>
>
> Thanks for caring Dan
>
> No, not connected in any way. I got an email back from ACK and they said
> it is a common problem caused by the collapsing field current. From what I
> have heard, this can reach a couple hundred volts. He recommended a
> capacitor on the contactor (terminal to battery post), but he didn't specify
> what size. I ordered a 50 volt, 1 micro farad from radio shack for $2.
> Will give it a try and see if it works
>
> David Leonard
>
> Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> N4VY.RotaryRoster.net <http://n4vy.rotaryroster.net/>
> www.RotaryRoster.net <http://www.rotaryroster.net/>
>
> On 4/23/07, Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote:
> >
> > Surprised nobody replied yet. Is the ELT or its light or switch
> > connected to the aircraft electrical system in any way?
> >
> > )_( Dan
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > *From:* David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
> > *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> > *Sent:* Sunday, April 22, 2007 9:34 AM
> > *Subject:* RV-List: ELT Misfire.. Main solenoid
> >
> >
> > Two years ago....
> > There I was JMMOB (an official medical abbreviation at some hospitals
> > for Just Minding My Own Business), home with my parents watching TV when my
> > cell rings.... Turns out the manhunt had finally located my 'downed'
> > aircraft parked safely on the transient ramp with the ELT humming away...
> > Talk about embarrassing. I drove to the airport and found a team of 14
> > year-old (dare I say) nerds pointing electo-gadgets at my plane. Their
> > leader insisted that I pull the ELT to get the S.N. I had 'wisely'
> > installed my ELT under the baggage floor, so at 10pm the elctro team had to
> > spend another hour watching me unload all the stuff in the cargo area,
> > remove the seats, remove the floor, just to get the S/N off the ELT (it is
> > now recorded in the owner documentation). Sorry about that.
> >
> > Anyway, I had assumed that some un-noticed bump had triggered the ELT.
> > A few times over the curse of the next year I had occasionally caught the
> > ELT light flashing while putting the plane away.. This disturbed me as I
> > could never come up with a good reason... I even blamed my passenger once
> > for accidentally pressing the activation button (which is near the pax
> > headset jack).
> >
> > But last night I finally found the problem. While playing with the
> > electrical system, I was able to get the ELT to activate several times when
> > shutting off the main solenoid. Isn't there some sort of current spike
> > generated on shut off? Could that be triggering my ELT (ACK)? Has anyone
> > had a similar problem? Know of a fix? I have not installed a diode on my
> > solenoid like electric Bob recommends.. Will that fix the problem?
> >
> > --
> > David Leonard
> >
> > Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> > N4VY.RotaryRoster.net <http://n4vy.rotaryroster.net/>
> > www.RotaryRoster.net <http://www.rotaryroster.net/>
> >
> > **
> >
> >
>
--
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
A 220 hp engine that's dependable and weighs 250 lbs total. I am also l
ooking to by the Brooklyn Bridge too. :-)...........
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- Bob <panamared5@brier.net> wrote:
> Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
> lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintena
nce
> and fiddling in the long run.
>
>Is that authoritative, expert advice... or just one man's opinion?
OK, I'll bite. For you alternative engine experts on the list, why
is an alternative engine lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to
build and less maintenance?
I personally fly a Lycoming, but would be interested in a 220 HP, 250
lb fully aerobatic (+10,-10 G) alternative engine with a constant
speed prop and inverted oil system (inverted cooling system?).
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
<html><P><BR>A 220 hp engine that's dependable and weighs 250
lbs total. I am also looking to by the Brooklyn Bridge too. :-)........
...</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair.com
<BR><BR>-- Bob <panamared5@brier.net> wrote:<BR>--&
gt; RV-List message posted by: Bob <pan
amared5@brier.net><BR><BR><BR>>  
; Stay way from Alternative Engines, a&nbs
p;Lycoming will end up being<BR>> &nbs
p; lighter, faster, cheaper, quick
er/easier to build, less maintenance<BR>> &n
bsp; and fiddling in the&nbs
p;long run.<BR>><BR>>Is that authoritative, ex
pert advice... or just one man's opinion?<
BR><BR>OK, I'll bite. For you alternative
engine experts on the list, why <BR>
is an alternative engine lighter, faster,
cheaper, quicker/easier to <BR>build and less&n
bsp;maintenance?<BR><BR>I personally fly a Lycoming,
but would be interested in a 220&nbs
p;HP, 250 <BR>lb fully aerobatic (+10,-10
G) alternative engine with a constant <BR>
speed prop and inverted oil system (invert
ed cooling system?).<BR><BR>Bob<BR>RV6 "Wicked Witch
========================
========================
Use the Matronics List Features Navigator
;Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse,&n
========================
Same great content now also available&nbs
========================
========================
<BR><BR><BR><BR></P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Looking for advice--final update |
There are FAA guys building RVs. Maybe one of them read about this
event, tracked down the FAA inspector, and gave him a quick
education. Or, maybe he finally realized that he was in an area that
was outside his expertise, and did some digging by himself.
Kevin Horton
do not archive
On 24 Apr 2007, at 09:07, Tim Bryan wrote:
> Someone must have got to him. Good thing, and good luck Dan
>
> Tim
>
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Ross
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 11:03 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Looking for advice--final update
>
>
> Guys: Re the looking for advice on the FSDO dude inspecting my
> -9A. Pre-inspection on last Wednesday caused heartburn as the
> inspector had serious doubts about certified engine with Vans
> experimental prop by Sensenich, non-TSO equipment bolted to engine,
> wanting A&P to sign off prop install, do complete AD review on
> engine and sign off as completed, experimental sign embroidered on
> upholstery on baggage compartment bulkhead and not immediately by
> each entrance, and finally a 25 mile radius Phase 1 test area. Oh,
> and to make the situation more simple I could make the certified
> engine experimental by removing and destroying the ID plate in
> front of the inspector. After reading the emails giving good
> advice and talking to EAA AB DAR instructor, my local technical
> representative and my A&P buddy, I was ready for the final
> inspection this Monday morning at 0900. I had FAA manuals,
> documentation, and EAA training materials all ready to refute each
> and every item I thought the inspector was incorrect on. Damn, he
> walked in this morning and said in one breath, the engine is ok,
> the embroidered experimental is ok, and you can have the 100NM
> radius you requested, lets finish the paperwork and get you
> flying. I still dont know what happened. I just want to say
> thanks to you guys and the EAA for the support. I learned more
> stuff than I wanted to know about amateur built airworthiness that
> I ever wanted to know. For instance, did you know you dont need
> and ELT while in Phase 1 testing? Lots of neat info in them there
> manuals. Thanks, Dan
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: RV-List: Fuel dripping down carburetor at idle cutoff
Ted, vibration is the cause. The float is heavy enough to let in more
fuel when the carb is being vibrated by the engine, but it will shut off
under still conditions with the electric fuel pump pushing fuel.
As per the conversation about liberal choices for RV, based upon my long
spanned collection (3 minutes) of many data points (4 - there were more
but they didn't statistically match what I wanted the results to be) the
research indicates that;
Liberals buy/build the odd numbered RVs
Conservatives buy/build the even numbered RVs
and RV3 builders are the exception to this as they are really cool,
ultra intelligent and generally are above all that petty bickering.
And a 3 is much more like a Preius with a Corvette engine yet gets such
good mileage one has to stop once in a while to let some of the fuel
out.
On a serious note, for those of you who pray, a dear friend of mine has
recently been diagnosed with extremely serious cancer. His name is Rand,
and if you've ever been to the NWEAA Fly-in you got parked and
marshalled because of his operations. Any thoughts or good wishes you
may have to send across the karma waves would be appreciated.
W
do not archive
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
n801bh@netzero.com wrote:
>
>
> A 220 hp engine that's dependable and weighs 250 lbs total. I am also
> looking to by the Brooklyn Bridge too. :-)...........
>
> do not archive
>
> Ben Haas
> N801BH
> www.haaspowerair.com
>
> -- Bob <panamared5@brier.net> wrote:
>
>
> > Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
> > lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintenance
> > and fiddling in the long run.
> >
> >Is that authoritative, expert advice... or just one man's opinion?
>
> OK, I'll bite. For you alternative engine experts on the list, why
> is an alternative engine lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to
> build and less maintenance?
>
> I personally fly a Lycoming, but would be interested in a 220 HP, 250
> lb fully aerobatic (+10,-10 G) alternative engine with a constant
> speed prop and inverted oil system (inverted cooling system?).
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch================================================ Use the Matronics
List Features Navigator;Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse,&n========================
Same great content now also available&nbs===============================================
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Keep saving the pennies. Who knows, by he time you have enough to buy
the bridge, the dependable 250 lb - 220 hp engine might be available.
I'm looking for the same engine. Great...another decision in
bulding...what to do...what to do?
There's my two pennies.
Carlos
Do Not Archive
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers, LLC
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Lots of valid points George but I'll take issue with the 'forget
aerobatics with alternative engines' part. I enjoy aerobatics and get
my RV-4 upside down on almost every flight. There are no prop weight or
length limitations on the RD-1x series of gear drives but you are
correct about the 'no hydraulic CS option' I'm hoping that the
Vari-Pitch prop with a hydraulic coupler at the hub fixes that problem.
MT electric and others are always an option.
On maintenance issues it's a lot more complicated than you imply. I do
a lot of fiddling on my installation but it is mostly by choice. I've
never had a core engine problem in over 1600 hours. It's the
accessories and installation details that make up the majority of
problems. An alternator and an exhaust system are the only things that
have caused me to scrub a planned flight.
But your point about wanting something different is the key point. If
the thought of an alternative engine does not stir something in your
soul, forget it, it's not for you. For me, a Lycoming has about as much
emotional impact as my toaster.
Tracy Crook
Mazda 13B powered RV-4 1600+ hrs. (200 HP, empty weight 950, 217.5
MPH avg. in 2004 Sun100 race )
Mazda 20B powered RV-8 0 hrs (300 HP, empty weight ??) First
flight expected June 2007 - 2020
----- Original Message -----
From: gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com<mailto:gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less maintenance
and fiddling in the long run. There are TRUE BELEIVER and they
will tell you that there Mazda or Subaru is the greatest thing but
when you really crunch the numbers it does not add up. However
if you want to be DIFFERENT, for the sake of being unique than
by all means. What is the resale on auto engine RV's? What is
the resale on a Lyc powered RV? Huge difference. Nuff Said.
Sam James makes short cowls now.
Yes you can do mild aerobatics with the extended hub. Going
back to your alternative engine question, forget hydraulic constant
speed pops and frankly aerobatics if you went that route.
I could write a book on your questions but make it simple for
your self, FOLLOW THE PLANS: LYC+HARTZELL or SENSENICH.
Yes you must fly within limits. The extended hartzell is 3.8 g's
If you know what you are doing 3 gs is enough to do acro. My
old RV-4 had the same prop and logged +1000 hours, a large
part looping and rolling with no issues.
Charlie there is piles of info on the topic do some research, good
luck
George
>From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>Subject: RV-List: RV-7 engine/prop options
>
>I have a couple of questions about engine choices.
>
>If you have used an 'alternative' engine builder to build your
>experimental Lyc engine, what was your experience (positive or
>negative)?
>
>and,
>
>Has anyone on the list used an extended hub Hartzell prop (as needed
for
>some of the James cowls)? If so, do you feel comfortable doing mild
>'RV-acro' with the prop? The model I have available is an HC-F2YR hub
>with F7666-4 blades. I'm willing to deal with the cowl issues but I'm
>not willing to give up the occasional loop & roll.
>
>Thanks, Charlie
ceengland@bellsouth.net<mailto:ceengland@bellsouth.net>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo!
Autos.<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http://autos.yahoo.com/new_car
s.html;_ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV
3LWNhcnM->
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV-List>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
OK, go ahead and embarrass me!!! The reason I left that info out ....
I've forgotten the particulars. Search the archives. The post was from
a fellow that bought GAMIs and had problems ..... they sent out
injectors over and over again .... and they never worked right. If I
remember correctly, the whole GAMI injector needs to be removed and
replaced .... not easy on a hot engine. He finally gave up on GAMIs and
got his money back. The 'experimental' injector has a replaceable
insert with different size orifices and was easily swapped out. Problem
was .... they didn't work perfectly either. The problem was already
either a lean or rich condition and they were trying to go in the same
direction with the replacement injectors. maybe someone else will come
up with the specifics. Sorry I can't remember more than that ..... or
which list it was on!!!
Linn
Reuven Silberman wrote:
> Linn,
>
> What experimental GAMI Clones???? How bout a name and web site please.
>
> Reuven Silberman
> 7A IO360 CS
>
> linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>
> Point made. I was addressing more normal operation. If you're
> prone to
> doing aerobatics without inverted systems ..... maybe a crankcase
> vent
> routed to the tail is in order. My biggest gripe with the separators
> (all of them) is the modification to get the recovered oil back
> into the
> engine and the acids that get recirculated also. The more wear on the
> engine, the worse that crap gets. Most separator users follow the
> instructions and return the recovered stuff to the engine and
> never see
> what's being recovered. I have. It's nasty.
> Linn
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> >
> > Linn I agree with what you say about the need for an oil
> separator but
> > another way for oil to get to the bottom side of our airplanes is
> > doing aerobatics
> > with out an inverted oils system. There does not necessarily
> have to
> > be anything wrong with the engine to have oil on the bottom side.
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> > linn Walters wrote:
> >
> >> Garry wrote:
> >>
> >>> I spent a full day walking around the vendor booths at Sun N'Fun
> >>> yesterday, and found some interesting sales pitches. A few of the
> >>> items actually caught my interest............Air Wolf air/oil
> >>> separator,
> >>
> >>
> >> Save your money. If you have a problem with oil on the belly, try
> >> lowering the oil level one or two quarts. If it's due to blow by
> >> .... you need to do a top .... the rings are shot. Some oil may be
> >> going past the valves too. If you decide to waste your money ....
> >> it's a cover-up for things that are wrong ..... stick the 'return'
> >> hose down in a can that you can empty ..... not back to the
> engione.
> >>
> >>> GAMI fuel injectors,
> >>
> >>
> >> Good idea .... but there's an 'experimental' version out there
> that
> >> will do the same thing at less cost.
> >> Linn
> >> do not archive
> >>
> >>> and 4 into 1 Exhaust systems. I'd appreciate any feedback from
> >>> the group as to the value of these items, if indeed I should even
> >>> consider them, and what real world experience folks might have
> with
> >>> using them.
> >>>
> >>> Garry Stout
> >>> RV-7A
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
When I went through the purchase of my engine, I researched this
somewhat. I was set on having the GAMI injectors based upon reports I
had received. When talking to my engine builder (Allen Barrett @ BPA) he
educated me about the differences between Continental and Lycoming.
Basically the Continental induction system is not as efficient and
benefits MORE from the GAMI's than the Lyc's do. Additionally, if you
want to get that last measure of performance out of your engine, Don
River @ AFP has a wealth of information and a service to swap/tune
injectors for his fuel injection system. So If you've got a Lycoming
the benefits of the GAMI's will not be as large. If you've got a
Lycoming AND AFP injection you're in good luck.
Deems Davis # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
linn Walters wrote:
> OK, go ahead and embarrass me!!! The reason I left that info out ....
> I've forgotten the particulars. Search the archives. The post was
> from a fellow that bought GAMIs and had problems ..... they sent out
> injectors over and over again .... and they never worked right. If I
> remember correctly, the whole GAMI injector needs to be removed and
> replaced .... not easy on a hot engine. He finally gave up on GAMIs
> and got his money back. The 'experimental' injector has a replaceable
> insert with different size orifices and was easily swapped out.
> Problem was .... they didn't work perfectly either. The problem was
> already either a lean or rich condition and they were trying to go in
> the same direction with the replacement injectors. maybe someone else
> will come up with the specifics. Sorry I can't remember more than
> that ..... or which list it was on!!!
> Linn
> *
> *
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Might that be because they sell Lycoming? And have a vested interest in
the consumer to keep buying the cool aid?
Dan
"GRIN"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
<shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
This came directly from Van's during Sun n Fun
What engines to put in your rv
1. Lycoming
2. Lycoming clones
.......
second to last. Auto conversions
last. Rubber bands.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Sletten" <marknlisa@hometel.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 7:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
>
> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com said:
>
> Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
> lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less
maintenance
> and fiddling in the long run.
>
>
> Is that authoritative, expert advice... or just one man's opinion?
>
> One person may satisfy himself the above statement is true, while
another
> may find just the opposite.
>
> Blanket declarations like this are almost always found to be lacking
when
> a
> few intelligent questions are asked...
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
Linn,
Sounds remarkably similar to my posting some ages ago.... On an
IO-540, I had switched out in excess of 35 GAMI injectors. To their
credit, they kept at it and would reanalyze the problem each time I sent
in new lean test data, yet the next round of injectors seem to have
little effect. By chance, I made contact with AFP and Don suggested
that I fly over there (<1 hr) and he would take a look. He put my
nozzle numbers into his "secret" spreadsheet (which he'll show you) and
it back-calculates pressures and flow, which in turn, makes
recommendations, in conjunction with Don's intuition and experience, for
the corrective injectors. The first thing his program showed was the
back pressure on the injector system was less than 1.5 psig. The flow
diverter doesn't really start kicking in and doing its job until the
system sees about 3.0 psig. In short, the total open area of my
injectors didn't allow sufficient backpressure for the system to work
properly.
I converted to AFP's system where the injector base is screwed into the
engine and thereafter, you only need undo the nut on the injector line
and swap out the injector needle, instead of unscrewing the entire
injector body as with the GAMI system.
By change all of the injectors to a couple sizes smaller, there was
sufficient backpressure to allow the diverter to work. We went out and
did a test flight, came back in, changed two of the injectors out, did
another test flight and sure enough, the spread was down to about 0.2
gph and the improved smoothness was immediately obvious. The tip of the
canard was rock steady, whereas previously, it would vibrate
continuously.
Since it was late afternoon and thunderstorms were parked over the
mountains between Spartanburg and Knoxville, Don suggested that I stay
over and depart the next morning. Suffice to say, Don is equally
talented with a fork and sauces for to-kill-for barbequed pork chops.
So, I'm a satisfied customer of AFP, but have no quarrel with GAMI.
GAMI was very courteous throughout the process and offered to refund my
full purchase price but I suggested a compromise where they keep 25% to
cover at least some of their postage. GAMI has done some ground
breaking engine work that has greatly benefited the industry. While
their price may be a bit higher than AFP, the cost difference is not out
of line with their contribution to the industry. The bottom line is if
you run injectors, balancing them and running LOP is the best money you
can spend, be it with AFP or GAMI.
Chuck Jensen
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
OK, go ahead and embarrass me!!! The reason I left that info out ....
I've forgotten the particulars. Search the archives. The post was from
a fellow that bought GAMIs and had problems ..... they sent out
injectors over and over again .... and they never worked right. If I
remember correctly, the whole GAMI injector needs to be removed and
replaced .... not easy on a hot engine. He finally gave up on GAMIs and
got his money back. The 'experimental' injector has a replaceable
insert with different size orifices and was easily swapped out. Problem
was .... they didn't work perfectly either. The problem was already
either a lean or rich condition and they were trying to go in the same
direction with the replacement injectors. maybe someone else will come
up with the specifics. Sorry I can't remember more than that ..... or
which list it was on!!!
Linn
Reuven Silberman wrote:
Linn,
What experimental GAMI Clones???? How bout a name and web site
please.
Reuven Silberman
7A IO360 CS
linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
<mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Point made. I was addressing more normal operation. If
you're prone to
doing aerobatics without inverted systems ..... maybe a
crankcase vent
routed to the tail is in order. My biggest gripe with
the separators
(all of them) is the modification to get the recovered
oil back into the
engine and the acids that get recirculated also. The
more wear on the
engine, the worse that crap gets. Most separator users
follow the
instructions and return the recovered stuff to the
engine and never see
what's being recovered. I have. It's nasty.
Linn
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Linn I agree with what you say about the need for an
oil separator but
> another way for oil to get to the bottom side of our
airplanes is
> doing aerobatics
> with out an inverted oils system. There does not
necessarily have to
> be anything wrong with the engine to have oil on the
bottom side.
>
> Do not archive
>
> linn Walters wrote:
>
>> Garry wrote:
>>
>>> I spent a full day walking around the vendor booths
at Sun N'Fun
>>> yesterday, and found some interesting sales pitches.
A few of the
>>> items actually caught my interest............Air
Wolf air/oil
>>> separator,
>>
>>
>> Save your money. If you have a problem with oil on
the belly, try
>> lowering the oil level one or two quarts. If it's due
to blow by
>> .... you need to do a top .... the rings are shot.
Some oil may be
>> going past the valves too. If you decide to waste
your money ....
>> it's a cover-up for things that are wrong ..... stick
the 'return'
>> hose down in a can that you can empty ..... not back
to the engione.
>>
>>> GAMI fuel injectors,
>>
>>
>> Good idea .... but there's an 'experimental' version
out there that
>> will do the same thing at less cost.
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>>> and 4 into 1 Exhaust systems. I'd appreciate any
feedback from
>>> the group as to the value of these items, if indeed
I should even
>>> consider them, and what real world experience folks
might have with
>>> using them.
>>>
>>> Garry Stout
>>> RV-7A
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
Well I would also want to see a Lycoming FWF weighing that, and creating
that much HP?
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
> Stay way from Alternative Engines, a Lycoming will end up being
> lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to build, less
maintenance
> and fiddling in the long run.
>
>Is that authoritative, expert advice... or just one man's opinion?
OK, I'll bite. For you alternative engine experts on the list, why
is an alternative engine lighter, faster, cheaper, quicker/easier to
build and less maintenance?
I personally fly a Lycoming, but would be interested in a 220 HP, 250
lb fully aerobatic (+10,-10 G) alternative engine with a constant
speed prop and inverted oil system (inverted cooling system?).
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: User Fees and Patriotism |
Wow,
I go away for a wek to SNF and come back to find, global warming, the war in Iraq
and multiple othe issues on the RV list.
Do you think Rome and other major civilizations knew when they were cracking at
the seams and started the long downhill slide?
Now I must go cogitate life as I find myself in substantial agreement with most
of Bobs posts, someone, who I suspect, has an opposite political leaning to myself.
Bob,
Is that a recent photo? I ,for some reason, expected you to be a bit older than
the photo suggests..
Do not archive
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have made a difference to
the world, but the Marines dont have that problem. - Ronald Reagan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108964#108964
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil Temperature High |
The squat plenum may well be causing some turbulence and reducing
airflow. The sides of the plenum shouldn't diverge more than 19 degrees,
if I remember the figure correctly, to keep the airflow attached. Pay
attention to the exit side also. If there are obstructions, it can
reduce airflow.
We've got a firewall mounted Niagara with 3 inch scat (one 90 degree
bend) on our 6-a, O-320. It has a long plenum and is fine for winter and
spring (185-195), but doesn't do well enough in summer (220+). We're
thinking seriously about moving it to the baffle. In the meantime, 750
hrs worth of it, we change the oil at 25 hrs, tach.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francis
Malczynski
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 3:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperature High
My friend is test flying an RV6 fuel injected 0320. At 75% power runs
ie: engine break-in, he is seeing oil temperatures in the 210 - 220-
range. This is with an OAT of 34 degrees. He has a firewall mounted oil
cooler and used the van's kit for installation, which utilizes a 3" scat
duct. His feeling is that this is not enough airflow through the cooler
and because the cooler plenum (shroud) is so squat that not enough air
is being distributed across the entire face off the oil cooler. Any
thoughts on this.Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Sun N'Fun "Must haves"? |
Similar experience for me and AFP
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/nozzles/index.htm
Mike
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 1:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sun N'Fun "Must haves"?
Linn,
Sounds remarkably similar to my posting some ages ago.... On an
IO-540, I had switched out in excess of 35 GAMI injectors. To their
credit, they kept at it and would reanalyze the problem each time I sent
in new lean test data, yet the next round of injectors seem to have
little effect. By chance, I made contact with AFP and Don suggested
that I fly over there (<1 hr) and he would take a look. He put my
nozzle numbers into his "secret" spreadsheet (which he'll show you) and
it back-calculates pressures and flow, which in turn, makes
recommendations, in conjunction with Don's intuition and experience, for
the corrective injectors. The first thing his program showed was the
back pressure on the injector system was less than 1.5 psig. The flow
diverter doesn't really start kicking in and doing its job until the
system sees about 3.0 psig. In short, the total open area of my
injectors didn't allow sufficient backpressure for the system to work
properly.
I converted to AFP's system where the injector base is screwed into the
engine and thereafter, you only need undo the nut on the injector line
and swap out the injector needle, instead of unscrewing the entire
injector body as with the GAMI system.
By change all of the injectors to a couple sizes smaller, there was
sufficient backpressure to allow the diverter to work. We went out and
did a test flight, came back in, changed two of the injectors out, did
another test flight and sure enough, the spread was down to about 0.2
gph and the improved smoothness was immediately obvious. The tip of the
canard was rock steady, whereas previously, it would vibrate
continuously.
Since it was late afternoon and thunderstorms were parked over the
mountains between Spartanburg and Knoxville, Don suggested that I stay
over and depart the next morning. Suffice to say, Don is equally
talented with a fork and sauces for to-kill-for barbequed pork chops.
So, I'm a satisfied customer of AFP, but have no quarrel with GAMI.
GAMI was very courteous throughout the process and offered to refund my
full purchase price but I suggested a compromise where they keep 25% to
cover at least some of their postage. GAMI has done some ground
breaking engine work that has greatly benefited the industry. While
their price may be a bit higher than AFP, the cost difference is not out
of line with their contribution to the industry. The bottom line is if
you run injectors, balancing them and running LOP is the best money you
can spend, be it with AFP or GAMI.
Chuck Jensen
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
OK, go ahead and embarrass me!!! The reason I left that info out ....
I've forgotten the particulars. Search the archives. The post was from
a fellow that bought GAMIs and had problems ..... they sent out
injectors over and over again .... and they never worked right. If I
remember correctly, the whole GAMI injector needs to be removed and
replaced .... not easy on a hot engine. He finally gave up on GAMIs and
got his money back. The 'experimental' injector has a replaceable
insert with different size orifices and was easily swapped out. Problem
was .... they didn't work perfectly either. The problem was already
either a lean or rich condition and they were trying to go in the same
direction with the replacement injectors. maybe someone else will come
up with the specifics. Sorry I can't remember more than that ..... or
which list it was on!!!
Linn
Reuven Silberman wrote:
Linn,
What experimental GAMI Clones???? How bout a name and web site
please.
Reuven Silberman
7A IO360 CS
linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
<mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Point made. I was addressing more normal operation. If you're
prone to
doing aerobatics without inverted systems ..... maybe a
crankcase vent
routed to the tail is in order. My biggest gripe with the
separators
(all of them) is the modification to get the recovered oil back
into the
engine and the acids that get recirculated also. The more wear
on the
engine, the worse that crap gets. Most separator users follow
the
instructions and return the recovered stuff to the engine and
never see
what's being recovered. I have. It's nasty.
Linn
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Linn I agree with what you say about the need for an oil
separator but
> another way for oil to get to the bottom side of our airplanes
is
> doing aerobatics
> with out an inverted oils system. There does not necessarily
have to
> be anything wrong with the engine to have oil on the bottom
side.
>
> Do not archive
>
> linn Walters wrote:
>
>> Garry wrote:
>>
>>> I spent a full day walking around the vendor booths at Sun
N'Fun
>>> yesterday, and found some interesting sales pitches. A few
of the
>>> items actually caught my interest............Air Wolf
air/oil
>>> separator,
>>
>>
>> Save your money. If you have a problem with oil on the belly,
try
>> lowering the oil level one or two quarts. If it's due to blow
by
>> .... you need to do a top .... the rings are shot. Some oil
may be
>> going past the valves too. If you decide to waste your money
....
>> it's a cover-up for things that are wrong ..... stick the
'return'
>> hose down in a can that you can empty ..... not back to the
engione.
>>
>>> GAMI fuel injectors,
>>
>>
>> Good idea .... but there's an 'experimental' version out
there that
>> will do the same thing at less cost.
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>>> and 4 into 1 Exhaust systems. I'd appreciate any feedback
from
>>> the group as to the value of these items, if indeed I should
even
>>> consider them, and what real world experience folks might
have with
>>> using them.
>>>
>>> Garry Stout
>>> RV-7A
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
c
om/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 engine/prop options |
At 09:14 AM 4/24/07, n801bh@netzero.com wrote:
>A 220 hp engine that's dependable and weighs 250 lbs total. I am
>also looking to by the Brooklyn Bridge too. :-)..........
Last week I saw a IO 360 Mattituck Superior clone with 10:1 pistons
(not an angle valved engine), cold air induction, front facing sump
(ram air), 4 tuned exhaust pipes, polished intake ports, inverted oil
system. Empty weight around 285-290, rated HP 215-220. Super
looking engine.
Now I don't know if you call a Lycoming clone dependable, but the HP
to weight of this engine is pretty good for aviation or alternative
engines. It doesn't meet the 250 pound goal, but it is not that far
off. This will give the automotive guys something to work for.
NOTE: This debate started with Lycoming is the best, no it isn't,
yes it is. Then we talked about the automotive engines are better if
you consider................., yes it is, no it isn't, yes it is. So
I decided to determine what is best for me: 220 HP, 250 pounds and +
or - 10G and a reasonable TBO. The engine that comes the closest,
goes in my next plane!
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Orndorff videos for sale |
Invaluable to me during my 7A construction!!
Empenage 6/8 2 tape set
Wings 8 2 tape set
Finish Kit 8
Aircraft Systems 2 tape set
Aircraft Tools
Original cost was $175
All for $120 plus shipping
Contact me off list for interest / questions.
Randy
408 427 5254 / randy.mcfarland@novellus.com
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=us-ascii">
<META NAME="Generator" CONTENT="MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2653.12">
<TITLE>Orndorff videos for sale</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>Invaluable to me during my 7A construction!!</FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>Empenage 6/8 2 tape set</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Wings 8 2 tape set</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Finish Kit 8 </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Aircraft Systems 2 tape set</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Aircraft Tools </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Original cost was $175</FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>All for $120 plus shipping</FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>Contact me off list for interest / questions.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>Randy</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>408 427 5254 / randy.mcfarland@novellus.com</FONT>
</P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: User Fees and Patriotism |
N395V wrote:
> Is that a recent photo? I ,for some reason, expected you to be a bit older than
the photo suggests..
>
Not sure if you're talking about me, Milt. Are you referring to the one on the
Web version of the list? Same one I use on the RV Builder's HOtline. It's about
a year old. I'm 53.
If you're not talking about how young I look, well,don't tell me.
Do not archive.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109003#109003
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: User Fees and Patriotism |
> If you're not talking about how young I look
Your photo lookslike late 30s or early 40s certainly not 53.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have made a difference to
the world, but the Marines dont have that problem. - Ronald Reagan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109025#109025
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature High |
I had high temperatures on my O-320 RV6 initially and eventually solved
the problem, primarily through more airflow. I agree that 210-220 is
high with a 34F OAT (presumably at the surface level), even for a new
engine.
In the past, Vans has indicated that a 3" scat tube is very marginal for
feeding a firewall mounted cooler on an RV-6. That's only a cross
section of 6 or 7 square inches. A 4" SCAT tube would have almost double
the cross section and have less flow loss from surface friction.
My recommendation is to increase the size of the SCAT tube...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Francis Malczynski
To: RV-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperature High
My friend is test flying an RV6 fuel injected 0320. At 75% power
runs ie: engine break-in, he is seeing oil temperatures in the 210 '
220- range. This is with an OAT of 34 degrees. He has a firewall mounted
oil cooler and used the van=92s kit for installation, which utilizes a
3=94 scat duct. His feeling is that this is not enough airflow through
the cooler and because the cooler plenum (shroud) is so squat that not
enough air is being distributed across the entire face off the oil
cooler. Any thoughts on this=85Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: User Fees and Patriotism |
N395V wrote:
> [
> Your photo lookslike late 30s or early 40s certainly not 53.
I credit global warming and a carbon-rich diet for my youthful looks.
Do not archive
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109030#109030
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature High |
Kyle.....Good idea!!! I have a 4" Tube running to the firewall mounted
cooler on my RV6-A. I have never seen an Oil Temp. above 185 and my RV
is running the 0-360-A1A.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Temperature High
I had high temperatures on my O-320 RV6 initially and eventually
solved the problem, primarily through more airflow. I agree that 210-220
is high with a 34F OAT (presumably at the surface level), even for a new
engine.
In the past, Vans has indicated that a 3" scat tube is very marginal
for feeding a firewall mounted cooler on an RV-6. That's only a cross
section of 6 or 7 square inches. A 4" SCAT tube would have almost double
the cross section and have less flow loss from surface friction.
My recommendation is to increase the size of the SCAT tube...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Francis Malczynski
To: RV-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Temperature High
My friend is test flying an RV6 fuel injected 0320. At 75% power
runs ie: engine break-in, he is seeing oil temperatures in the 210 '
220- range. This is with an OAT of 34 degrees. He has a firewall mounted
oil cooler and used the van=92s kit for installation, which utilizes a
3=94 scat duct. His feeling is that this is not enough airflow through
the cooler and because the cooler plenum (shroud) is so squat that not
enough air is being distributed across the entire face off the oil
cooler. Any thoughts on this=85Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: User Fees and Patriotism |
Perhaps its all psychosomatic. Have a look at the British documentary, "The
Great Global Warming Swindle". Junkscience.com has a link to it, or you can
go to it directly at http://tinyurl.com/296jq6 or
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4499562022478442170&q=global+warming
+swindle&hl=en
Of course the politically correct won't be interested in such heresy.
Terry
N395V wrote:
> [
> Your photo lookslike late 30s or early 40s certainly not 53.
I credit global warming and a carbon-rich diet for my youthful looks.
Do not archive
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Can't remember who or find in archives |
Guys: Some time ago, 3 or 4 months, someone had a problem with dragging
brakes, can't remember the type RV. His fix was to put long bolts through
the pedal brackets because he thought the pedals might be binding. I have
the same problem now, I think. Question to whoever posted this: Did it
work and if it did, how long were the bolts. Thanks, Dan
Do Not Archive
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: RV Advice, one leg flyer |
I want to thank everyone for there help on this topic, it has been
invaluable. The list ("you all" is how we say it in the south) has provided
me with some great information including:
1) Picture of how two amputees accomplish flying with one leg,
including a castor on a shoe to dual hand brakes and a push-pull rudder, and
an article about a double amputee doing it with some special hardware flying
an RV4.
2) It gave me the sense that I can pick the plane I want and find a
way to modify it to make it work safely.
3) A belief in a great community of builders that will readily share
there experiences
As an outcome I will go fly with a CFI in a tail dragger and a nose dragger
and see which one works for my handicap and order a kit. I know it will be
a 7, with a Lycoming type engine, so I'm almost there and can order some
more tools and the tail kit.
Thanks again, Carl
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Brake pedal bolts...Can't remember who or find in archives |
Dan,
Dave Parson has this documented on his site.
http://www.dualrudder.com/rv7/?s=brake+pedal+bolt
Scroll down to Wed. Aug 16, 2006.
I think I used AN3-58.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Ross
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 8:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Can't remember who or find in archives
Guys: Some time ago, 3 or 4 months, someone had a problem with dragging
brakes, can't remember the type RV. His fix was to put long bolts
through the pedal brackets because he thought the pedals might be
binding. I have the same problem now, I think. Question to whoever
posted this: Did it work and if it did, how long were the bolts.
Thanks, Dan
Do Not Archive
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I also have a set of videos that needs a new home. It includes:
Orndorff Videos:
Aircraft Sheet Metal Tools
RV-6 Empennage
RV-6 Wings
RV-6A Fuselage
RV-6A Finish Kit
RV Systems
RV-6 Interior
Plus:
Sam James Fiberglass 101
From The Ground Up Vols. 1 - 4
Altogether 19 VHS tapes at an original cost of over $300 but I'll let them
go for $150 plus shipping. If you're near Flagstaff, you can save the
shipping by picking them up. I'm not eager to split them up but waving
money in my face has a magical effect. ;)
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Odd jobs while waiting for avionics.
Do Not Archive
Message 46
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Sun N Fun pictures |
Just got back from Sun N Fun and wanted to share some pics.
http://sportplanes.tv/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109106#109106
Message 47
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: User Fees and Patriotism |
Terry Watson wrote:
>
> Perhaps its all psychosomatic. Have a look at the British documentary, "The
> Great Global Warming Swindle". Junkscience.com has a link to it, or you can
> go to it directly at http://tinyurl.com/296jq6 or
> http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4499562022478442170&q=global+warming
> +swindle&hl=en
>
> Of course the politically correct won't be interested in such heresy.
>
> Terry
Here's a summary of that UK TV show, in case you want to save an hour:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Global_Warming_Swindle
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 48
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Can't remember who or find in archives |
In a message dated 4/24/2007 8:45:20 PM Central Daylight Time,
dcr@fdltownhomes.com writes:
Question to whoever posted this: Did it work and if it did, how long were
the bolts.
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4964_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4964)
This was more for preventing the small bolts from twisting cockeyed and
wearing the holes & hardware, although there are many many RVs flying with them.
If using either configuration, make sure the nuts are NOT tight- the pedals
should be able to freely pivot without sticking.
Dragging brakes are usually from weak return springs inside the cylinders,
and many have added external coil springs around the cylinder rods to add more
extension force (I did) and it stopped my dragging brake problem. It is a good
idea to add a flanged bushing on the bottom of the spring, with the OD of the
bushing inside the spring and the flange nested on top of the cylinder to
prevent the spring from scoring the rod- I used small plastic flanged bushings,
probably from McMaster.com, but it's been a while...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips RV-6A "Mojo" 400+ hrs
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/) (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 49
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Temperature High |
In a message dated 4/24/2007 6:16:14 AM Central Daylight Time,
ebbfmm@verizon.net writes:
His feeling is that this is not enough airflow through the cooler and becaus
e
the cooler plenum (shroud) is so squat that not enough air is being
distributed across the entire face off the oil cooler. Any thoughts on this
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5000_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5000)
This arrangement has worked well on my 150hp E3D for over 400 hours. Click
>>Next Entry>> at top of page for more entries, and click on foto for bigger
look...
>From The PossumWorks in TN,
Mark RV-6A "Mojo"
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
.
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|