Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:12 AM - Re: Can't remember who or find in archives (Richard Seiders)
2. 07:10 AM - Lightspeed electronic ignition (Jeff Dowling)
3. 11:53 AM - Engine wiring anchor points (Joe & Jan Connell)
4. 12:46 PM - Re: Engine wiring anchor points (Dale Ensing)
5. 06:59 PM - Re: Engine wiring anchor points (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Can't remember who or find in archives |
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Lightspeed electronic ignition |
I was reading the instructions in the timing manual and they mentioned
the timing at idle should be at 40 btdc with manifold pressure input and
20 without. I used an automotive timing light, however I think mine has
a potentiometer, which your not supposed to use. Anyway, I found my
timing to be about 30btdc at idle using the gun but my lightspeed
provided display showed the correct 40 degrees. Now Im wondering, do I
even have to use the timing light since I purchased the optional display
which shows me the timing?
I also thought it would fire closer to 25 btdc at idle and advance with
rpm. I was surprised to see it firing so early.
I did a typical mag check at 1700 and got about 150 drop in my mag and
almost no drop in the electronic. Its running very smoothly. However,
at low power settings and just one mag, it backfired and ran a bit
rough. Does that sound normal? I checked the mag timing and its right
on. New plugs.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
300+ hours
Chicago
Message 3
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| Subject: | Engine wiring anchor points |
Guys,
I'm in the process of routing wires to the starter, alternator, CHT, and
EGT probes.
Is anyone using the induction tubes from the sump for a clamp and
standoff for the
wires? Also, how about using the sump-to-crankcase attach bolts for
cable clamp
attachments?
Thanks...
Joe Connell
RV-9A and O-320
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine wiring anchor points |
I fabricated a clamp arrangement on the induction tube for the
alternator wire.
I found a large rubber sleeve about 2 in long; about a 1/4 in wall
thickness and with stainless steel clamps at Home Depot. The rubber
sleeve was slit open from end to end and then trimmed so that the new ID
fit the OD of the induction tube. A hole was drilled in a SS screw clamp
to allow for a pan head screw that would become the mounting screw for a
cushioned clamp which holds the alt. wire. The SS screw clamp is around
the rubber sleeve on the induction tube. Now have 150 hours and it has
worked well.
Note: The CHT and EGT wires need to be at least 2 inches from any high
current wires. The voltage in these wire is so small that the magnetic
field around the high current wire, such as the alternator wire, will
produce very erratic readings.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe & Jan Connell
To: RV-List
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 2:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine wiring anchor points
Guys,
I'm in the process of routing wires to the starter, alternator, CHT,
and EGT probes.
Is anyone using the induction tubes from the sump for a clamp and
standoff for the
wires? Also, how about using the sump-to-crankcase attach bolts for
cable clamp
attachments?
Thanks...
Joe Connell
RV-9A and O-320
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Engine wiring anchor points |
In a message dated 4/26/2007 1:54:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
jconnell@rconnect.com writes:
Is anyone using the induction tubes from the sump for a clamp and standoff
for the
wires? Also, how about using the sump-to-crankcase attach bolts for cable
clamp
attachments?
I used the induction tubes on my plane for attaching CHT/EGT cables- large
black ty-rap around the rubber tube-to-sump hose with a small ty-rap between it
and the cables with no signs of degradation or loosening- I "believe" the
black ones are preferable in the engine environment to the natural nylon. They
are touted as "weatherable" and "weather" this means UV resistant or what, I'm
not sure, but they have worked well for me. It is standard practice to use
sump bolts as attach points for adel (cushion) clamps...
Mark RV-6A "Mojo" 400+ hrs...
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