Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:03 AM - Re: Govenor oil leak (Glen Matejcek)
2. 05:14 AM - Re: Govenor oil leak (Flamini, Dennis, Fran)
3. 09:32 AM - Re: Clocking the prop. Real world data (don wentz)
4. 10:04 AM - Looking for Robby Knox (Bob Snedaker)
5. 10:40 AM - Main spar flange bend angle problem (Michael D. Cencula)
6. 11:56 AM - Re: Looking for Robby Knox (Darrell Reiley)
7. 03:05 PM - Amount of smooth prime to do job (Tim Bryan)
8. 05:05 PM - Re: Amount of smooth prime to do job (William Gill)
9. 05:07 PM - Re: Main spar flange bend angle problem (wskimike)
10. 05:44 PM - Re: Amount of smooth prime to do job (Kyle Boatright)
11. 06:00 PM - Re: Main spar flange bend angle problem (Charlie England)
12. 06:53 PM - Re: Main spar flange bend angle problem (Bob Collins)
13. 07:56 PM - Wind Root Fairings - Nutplates (Brian Cross)
14. 09:41 PM - Re: Wind Root Fairings - Nutplates (Larry Bowles)
15. 10:22 PM - Re: Looking for Robby Knox (Kevin Horton)
16. 10:33 PM - Re: Looking for Robby Knox (Bob Snedaker)
17. 10:48 PM - Re: Looking for Robby Knox ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Govenor oil leak |
Hi Roy-
> I have a new O-360 and the Jihostroj prop governor. I have a
>persistent oil leak that appears to be coming from the gasket between
>the governor and the engine.
> Anyone else have the problem?
Quite a few. There is a thread on this in the archives, but some of the lycs have
an issue with blowing that gasket and dumping all the oil overboard. The
solution seems to be 2 gaskets with a metal plate sandwiched between. Check the
list of applicable engines....
Glen Matejcek
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Govenor oil leak |
Check for a hairline crack at the hose fitting, i had it on an 0-360 due
to overtightening of the tapered pipe thread.
Dennis in Chicago
Message 3
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| Subject: | Clocking the prop. Real world data |
Randy,
I have a wood prop that can clock in any position on the studs.
i also have the newer extension that Van's sells, that offsets the studs
halfway between the crank bosses, and access to a std extension in-line
with
the crank bosses.
Since I'll need to balance my new prop/spinner anyway, and the wood prop
is
easy to take on/off, we could play with that.
Might even be able to borrow an aluminum Sensenich to get the feel of a
heavier prop.
O-360 with FI and one Emag.
note that Mike's testing was done 'in flight', versus ours which would
be
'static' on the ground.
don
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
Wow Mike, great info!!! I've long been curious about prop clocking but
there are some obstacles to just trying it as you ran into with the
crank
flange bosses. Of course you're working on a 6-cylinder where most of us
are
flying 4-cylinders. Anyone out there want to do some prop clocking
experimentation with an O-360?
If anyone in the Northwest wants to try some clocking experimentation I
can
assist with the measurement. Our EAA chapter has a DSS Micro MicroVibe
II
balancer.... HYPERLINK
"http://www.eaa105.org/Programs/programs.htm#PropBalancing"http://www.eaa
105
.org/Programs/programs.htm#PropBalancing
Best,
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: HYPERLINK "mailto:mike.stewart@us.ibm.com"Stewart, Michael (ISS
Atlanta)
"mailto:rocket-list@matronics.com"rocket-list@matronics.com ;
HYPERLINK "mailto:rv-list@matronics.com"rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
After weeks of trial and error, I have finally reached a point where I
can
safely say that clocking the prop doesn=92t just make a difference, it
makes
ALL the difference.
Several weeks ago I set out on a mission to run to ground a vibration in
my
RV-8. An IO-540 C4B5 with a Hartzell 2 blade prop. There has been a
vibration that I would characterize as objectionable. Common on big
engine
Rockets and RV=92s. The lower the RPM, the more objectionable it was.
I was able to instrument the plane and do some real tests and get real
results with real data. The net of it is that by changing the prop
clocking,
I was able to improve my vibration by 83%. And no Im not kidding. You
can
read all the details here. HYPERLINK
"http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm"http://www2.mstewart.net:
808
0/super8/index.htm
I captured a lot of data. I sure hope others find it useful. I have a
new
plane as a result.
Best,
Mike
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gat
or?RV-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
1:39 PM
1:39 PM
Message 4
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| Subject: | Looking for Robby Knox |
I'm looking for Robby Knox from Ricon, GA. I have his address as 107 Paddleford
Drive in Rincon. His phone number as 912-429-5761, his email at rknox@alltel.net
He received from me a large order in February for fairings for an -8 and a -10.
The fairings weren't returned nor were the invoices. I need to talk to him
about how he is going to pay me.
If you know him tell him to shoot me an email or give me a call.
Thanks
--
Sincerely,
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
PO Box 5488
Goodyear, AZ 85338
623 203 9795
bob@fairings-etc.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Main spar flange bend angle problem |
RV-ers,
I'm trying to figure out what to do about a problem with my main spar flanges.
The problem is detailed at:
http://www.our7a.com/20070426.html
http://www.our7a.com/20070428.html
Essentially, I think I need to tweak the bend angle of the main spar flanges
in some locations.
The problem is that the material is THICK and I've already riveted on my main
ribs, so how can I tweak this angle?
I suppose I could remove all the main ribs. It wouldn't be terrible since
they're only attached to the main spar at this point, but I'd prefer to avoid
that hassle if possible.
Any thoughts on how to tweak that spar flange? Seaming pliers seems like a
rough way to go.
Also, does anyone know what this angle is supposed to actually be?
Thanks,
Mike Cencula
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for Robby Knox |
Good Luck...!
He bought a rivet gun from me on VAF a few months back
and stated to me the check was in the mail. Well...
the check never came. I was just glad I had a gut
feeling about this guy and hadn't shipped it yet.
Darrell
--- Bob Snedaker <imfairings@cox.net> wrote:
> <imfairings@cox.net>
>
> I'm looking for Robby Knox from Ricon, GA. I have
> his address as 107 Paddleford Drive in Rincon. His
> phone number as 912-429-5761, his email at
> rknox@alltel.net
>
> He received from me a large order in February for
> fairings for an -8 and a -10. The fairings weren't
> returned nor were the invoices. I need to talk to
> him about how he is going to pay me.
>
> If you know him tell him to shoot me an email or
> give me a call.
>
> Thanks
> --
> Sincerely,
> Bob Snedaker
> Fairings-Etc
> PO Box 5488
> Goodyear, AZ 85338
> 623 203 9795
> bob@fairings-etc.com
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 7
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| Subject: | Amount of smooth prime to do job |
Hi all,
I have researched the archives about sealing up / priming my cowl for my
RV-6. As expensive as this stuff is, I am wondering if a quart would be
enough. The ACS website says 3 gallons to do a plastic airplane but all I
need to do is the cowl and maybe some fairings. Will a quart do it?
Tim
Message 8
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| Subject: | Amount of smooth prime to do job |
Tim,
I tried Van's "thinned epoxy" coatings, but the 24 hour wait before
sanding can make this a loooong process; however, it works and it's
inexpensive. After three coats of the thinned epoxy, I became impatient
and switched to a primer/filler product by PPG that can be sprayed or
brushed on. Attached are a few pictures of the product and the results.
I have no experience with the smooth prime product.
Bill
RV-7 FWF
Lee's Summit, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 5:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Amount of smooth prime to do job
Hi all,
I have researched the archives about sealing up / priming my cowl for my
RV-6. As expensive as this stuff is, I am wondering if a quart would be
enough. The ACS website says 3 gallons to do a plastic airplane but all
I need to do is the cowl and maybe some fairings. Will a quart do it?
Tim
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Main spar flange bend angle problem |
Use a shim rather than trying to bend the rib because you may crack it. It
would be better to shim it and don't
even think about bending the wing spar.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Main spar flange bend angle problem
> <matronics@cencula.com>
>
> RV-ers,
>
> I'm trying to figure out what to do about a problem with my main spar
> flanges.
> The problem is detailed at:
>
> http://www.our7a.com/20070426.html
> http://www.our7a.com/20070428.html
>
> Essentially, I think I need to tweak the bend angle of the main spar
> flanges
> in some locations.
>
> The problem is that the material is THICK and I've already riveted on my
> main
> ribs, so how can I tweak this angle?
>
> I suppose I could remove all the main ribs. It wouldn't be terrible since
> they're only attached to the main spar at this point, but I'd prefer to
> avoid
> that hassle if possible.
>
> Any thoughts on how to tweak that spar flange? Seaming pliers seems like
> a
> rough way to go.
>
> Also, does anyone know what this angle is supposed to actually be?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Cencula
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Amount of smooth prime to do job |
A quart worked just fine for me and I was pleased with the results.
However, some folks in the Canard community have bad things to say about
the product. Some have seen bubbling that they attribute to smooth
prime. The theory is that the smooth prime holds moisture and the
moisture causes bubbling under the finish coat. I think the current
institutional knowledge with the canard guys and gals is to make sure
you give smooth prime much more drying time than the instructions call
for, and to make sure you store the parts in a dry (not humid)
environment before painting.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 6:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Amount of smooth prime to do job
Hi all,
I have researched the archives about sealing up / priming my cowl for
my RV-6. As expensive as this stuff is, I am wondering if a quart would
be enough. The ACS website says 3 gallons to do a plastic airplane but
all I need to do is the cowl and maybe some fairings. Will a quart do
it?
Tim
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Main spar flange bend angle problem |
Michael D. Cencula wrote:
>
> RV-ers,
>
> I'm trying to figure out what to do about a problem with my main spar flanges.
> The problem is detailed at:
>
> http://www.our7a.com/20070426.html
> http://www.our7a.com/20070428.html
>
> Essentially, I think I need to tweak the bend angle of the main spar flanges
> in some locations.
>
> The problem is that the material is THICK and I've already riveted on my main
> ribs, so how can I tweak this angle?
>
> I suppose I could remove all the main ribs. It wouldn't be terrible since
> they're only attached to the main spar at this point, but I'd prefer to avoid
> that hassle if possible.
>
> Any thoughts on how to tweak that spar flange? Seaming pliers seems like a
> rough way to go.
>
> Also, does anyone know what this angle is supposed to actually be?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Cencula
Hi Mike,
If the flanges really are bent too much or not enough, you might be able
to pull the flange down with a bar-clamp (like you'd use in cabinet
making) and some big stiff angle to spread the load along the spar flange.
Having said that:
What does it look like if you cleco on the nose rib & wrap a strip of AL
over the rib & spar flange? If that lines up and looks ok, read on.
IIRC, my spar flanges weren't exactly square to the web (but I think
they were consistent in their bends).
The problem I *did* have, that caused some of the main rib/main spar
joints to look just like yours, was a few bad ribs. After fighting the
same gap between the spar flange & rib flange I see in yours, I noticed
that that the other pair of flanges (top vs. bottom on the same rib) was
too tight. Closer inspection revealed that the tooling holes in the
problem ribs were distorted as if they had been dimpled off-center. The
rib blanks had shifted in the punch press, causing all the holes to be
punched offset by a fraction of an inch. The ribs' web flange holes
being offset caused the rib to sit too high (or low, don't remember
which) in relation to the spar. Further evidence was that the prepunched
holes on the rib's top flange were a different distance from the edge
from the holes on the bottom flange. All these holes get punched before
the rib's flanges are bent.
A call to Van's tech help got the standard 'it's your fault; you're
doing something wrong', followed by asking for proof (I supplied it),
followed by the ubiquitous 'we've never seen this before', followed by
'we'll send you new parts & if the old one really is defective when you
return it, we won't charge you for the new one'. They didn't charge me
for the new one.
I don't know if it's relevant to your problem, but it really does look
like what I saw with mine.
Charlie
Message 12
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| Subject: | Main spar flange bend angle problem |
I vaguely remember a similar problem here, but I used the O ring (s) trick
around the rivet so that the bucking bar was basically pushing the little
flange of the rib against the flange of the main spar. I'd be VERY reluctant
to try to bend the main spar material in any way.
Do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Wind Root Fairings - Nutplates |
Hi Folks
I was working on my wing root gap fairings on my 8 today. Where the
fairing is screwed onto the top & bottom wing skin, the plans on Dwg.
43 call for a K1000-08 nutplate & to machine countersink the
skins. In the wing tank area where the gap seals are attached to the
tank skins, the plans call for K11000-08 nut plates. This would of
course call for dimpling the skins to accept the AN509-8R8 screws, (
the same screw called out for the K1000-08 nutplates).
This does not seem right to me as the countersink depth from the top
of the screw to the end of the taper on the screw is about
0.080". This means that if you machine countersink the skins which
total about 0.050" in thickness, the holes are going to be huge all
the way through both skins, ( the holes will largest of course at the
outer skins & the inner skin will have a smaller but still a
significant size).
It seems to me that all of these areas should be dimpled due to the
thinness of the total material. The documentation indicates for the
tank area, the skins be dimpled first & then if required, machine
countersink to complete it if the necessary dimple depth cannot be attained.
To add further confusion, I looked at my preview plans with the last
update of July 1998, all of these areas were specified to have
K1100-08 nutplates which as mentioned, to me that makes total sense.
I am obviously missing something here & would really appreciate any
help on this. Maybe I am being too fussy but I don't want to mess up
my wing skins at this stage of the game.
Thanks so much.
Brian Cross #81844 RV-8
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Wind Root Fairings - Nutplates |
The countersinking occurs at the wing walk doubler.
I worked fine for me.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
LARRY B.
7A AUSTIN, TX.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for Robby Knox |
He frequents the VAF WWW forums. You might try posting a message in
the General Discussion section over there.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=2
Kevin
On 28 Apr 2007, at 14:54, Darrell Reiley wrote:
> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> Good Luck...!
>
> He bought a rivet gun from me on VAF a few months back
> and stated to me the check was in the mail. Well...
> the check never came. I was just glad I had a gut
> feeling about this guy and hadn't shipped it yet.
>
> Darrell
>
>
> --- Bob Snedaker <imfairings@cox.net> wrote:
>
>> <imfairings@cox.net>
>>
>> I'm looking for Robby Knox from Ricon, GA. I have
>> his address as 107 Paddleford Drive in Rincon. His
>> phone number as 912-429-5761, his email at
>> rknox@alltel.net
>>
>> He received from me a large order in February for
>> fairings for an -8 and a -10. The fairings weren't
>> returned nor were the invoices. I need to talk to
>> him about how he is going to pay me.
>>
>> If you know him tell him to shoot me an email or
>> give me a call.
>>
>> Thanks
>> --
>> Sincerely,
>> Bob Snedaker
>> Fairings-Etc
>> PO Box 5488
>> Goodyear, AZ 85338
>> 623 203 9795
>> bob@fairings-etc.com
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>> Web Forums!
>>
>>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for Robby Knox |
Thanks Kevin...I'll try that.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
---- Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> wrote:
>
> He frequents the VAF WWW forums. You might try posting a message in
> the General Discussion section over there.
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=2
>
> Kevin
>
>
> On 28 Apr 2007, at 14:54, Darrell Reiley wrote:
>
> > <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Good Luck...!
> >
> > He bought a rivet gun from me on VAF a few months back
> > and stated to me the check was in the mail. Well...
> > the check never came. I was just glad I had a gut
> > feeling about this guy and hadn't shipped it yet.
> >
> > Darrell
> >
> >
> > --- Bob Snedaker <imfairings@cox.net> wrote:
> >
> >> <imfairings@cox.net>
> >>
> >> I'm looking for Robby Knox from Ricon, GA. I have
> >> his address as 107 Paddleford Drive in Rincon. His
> >> phone number as 912-429-5761, his email at
> >> rknox@alltel.net
> >>
> >> He received from me a large order in February for
> >> fairings for an -8 and a -10. The fairings weren't
> >> returned nor were the invoices. I need to talk to
> >> him about how he is going to pay me.
> >>
> >> If you know him tell him to shoot me an email or
> >> give me a call.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >> --
> >> Sincerely,
> >> Bob Snedaker
> >> Fairings-Etc
> >> PO Box 5488
> >> Goodyear, AZ 85338
> >> 623 203 9795
> >> bob@fairings-etc.com
> >>
> >>
> >> browse
> >> Subscriptions page,
> >> FAQ,
> >>
> >> Web Forums!
> >>
> >>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Sincerely,
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
PO Box 5488
Goodyear, AZ 85338
623 203 9795
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for Robby Knox |
Thanks for letting me know your experience with this guy.
Bob Snedaker
---- Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Good Luck...!
>
> He bought a rivet gun from me on VAF a few months back
> and stated to me the check was in the mail. Well...
> the check never came. I was just glad I had a gut
> feeling about this guy and hadn't shipped it yet.
>
> Darrell
>
>
> --- Bob Snedaker <imfairings@cox.net> wrote:
>
> > <imfairings@cox.net>
> >
> > I'm looking for Robby Knox from Ricon, GA. I have
> > his address as 107 Paddleford Drive in Rincon. His
> > phone number as 912-429-5761, his email at
> > rknox@alltel.net
> >
> > He received from me a large order in February for
> > fairings for an -8 and a -10. The fairings weren't
> > returned nor were the invoices. I need to talk to
> > him about how he is going to pay me.
> >
> > If you know him tell him to shoot me an email or
> > give me a call.
> >
> > Thanks
> > --
> > Sincerely,
> > Bob Snedaker
> > Fairings-Etc
> > PO Box 5488
> > Goodyear, AZ 85338
> > 623 203 9795
> > bob@fairings-etc.com
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Web Forums!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
--
Sincerely,
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
PO Box 5488
Goodyear, AZ 85338
623 203 9795
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