Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:09 AM - Re: Unfourtunately it's time to sell my RV6 (jbker@juno.com)
2. 06:25 AM - Re: Compressor & Painting Questions (Brian Meyette)
3. 07:03 AM - Re: Compressor & Painting Questions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 07:16 AM - Re: N64PR First Flight (Charles Rowbotham)
5. 07:33 AM - Re: Compressor & Painting Questions (Tim Bryan)
6. 08:11 AM - Zanon XRX antenna position (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
7. 08:14 AM - Re: Tru Trak EFIS (Ian Jordan)
8. 08:59 AM - Re: Re: Tru Trak EFIS (SteinAir, Inc.)
9. 09:02 AM - Re: Zanon XRX antenna position (rtitsworth)
10. 09:45 AM - Texas sales tax (aircraft) (Mark Frederick)
11. 09:59 AM - Re: Unfourtunately it's time to sell my RV6 (George P. Tyler)
12. 10:01 AM - Re: Re: Tru Trak EFIS (Ed Anderson)
13. 10:01 AM - Re: Re: Tru Trak EFIS (Ed Anderson)
14. 10:31 AM - Re: Re:N number requirements (Mike Robertson)
15. 10:48 AM - Re: Compressor & Painting Questions (John W. Cox)
16. 11:05 AM - Re: Re:N number requirements (Dale Ensing)
17. 12:01 PM - Re: Compressor & Painting Questions (Tim Bryan)
18. 12:10 PM - Re: Compressor & Painting Questions (Konrad L. Werner)
19. 12:47 PM - Re: Compressor & Painting Questions ()
20. 12:49 PM - Re: Re: Tru Trak EFIS (rtitsworth)
21. 12:54 PM - Re: Re:N number requirements (Mike Robertson)
22. 02:24 PM - Re: Re:N number requirements (Sherman Butler)
23. 02:54 PM - Re: Re:N number requirements (n801bh@netzero.com)
24. 05:51 PM - Re: Re:N number requirements (N67BT@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Unfourtunately it's time to sell my RV6 |
Hi Gary,
Sorry to hear that you are having health issues. Hope your's are similar
to mine, not keeping me from doing the things I like to do, just can't
get by an issue with cardiogists for medical certificate. I'm probably s
elling my 9A this year and doing a 12 to keep from the hassle of 3rd cla
ss.
Will never forget your getting under Rutan's skin by doing the Q-2 in Ca
nada!
Bernie Kerr
<html><P>Hi Gary,</P>
<P>Sorry to hear that you are having health issues. Hope your's are
similar to mine, not keeping me from doing the things I like to do, jus
t can't get by an issue with cardiogists for medical certificate. I'm pr
obably selling my 9A this year and doing a 12 to keep from the hassle of
3rd class.</P>
<P>Will never forget your getting under Rutan's skin by doing the Q-2 in
Canada!<BR>Bernie Kerr</P>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Compressor & Painting Questions |
Its highly recommended to extend an air compressors range via hose, rather
than wire. I believe the owners manual for most any compressor will tell
you this. The most common hose size is 3/8, with 1/4 being the cheap
stuff. If youre concerned about air flow, use 1/2 hose. You could go
larger, but I doubt youd need it. 1/2 hose and fittings are fairly
common.
It sounds to me like either compressor you mentioned will be more than
enough. I cant speak to the servicing of either compressor.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Medema
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
I'm equipping my paint booth and have come up with some questions.
I'm planning on buying the DeVilbiss FinishLine 3 HVLP spray gun.
This gun takes more air than my little 2hp compressor can deliver so
I'm going to buy a bigger one.
I'm choosing between the Kobalt 60 gallon single stage from Lowes or
the Husky Pro 60 gallon single stage from Home Depot. Both have
15 amp 230 volt motors. The Kobalt has better specs as far as
SCFM is concerned. The pump has a cast iron case and cylinder
(though the cylinder head appears to be aluminum). It is a single
cylinder pump. The Husky Pro has a two cylinder compressor, but
the cylinders are aluminum with supposedly an iron or steel sleeve.
The Kobalt gives a noise rating of 76dBa which seems fairly quiet for
a compressor of this size. Both cost $400. I would probably just
choose the Kobalt, but there are some horror stories on the internet
about problems with Kobalt compressors and getting them serviced.
1) Anybody out there have experience with either of these compressors?
Things you like? Things you dislike?
2) My painting area is quite a ways away from where I have 230Volt power.
I was originally planning to buy a 100 foot 10 gauge extension cord, cut
off the ends, and wire it to the compressor and a plug that fits my 230
outlets. Those cords are almost $100 right now! I already have 100
feet of
3/8" I.D. air hose. Will I have any problems running an HVLP gun
off 100 feet of air hose?
3) I could bring my old compressor into my paint booth and use it's 20
gallon tank as a more local air storage tank. Would this help any
problems associated with using 100 feet of air hose?
Thanks for your help. I'm getting close to starting the painting process!
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
2:23 PM
PM
Message 3
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| Subject: | Compressor & Painting Questions |
Two stage compressors are always better if you can do it but for most of
us a single stage will be more than enough. Big thing is to get away from
any oil less compressors as they are all garbage. CFM is the most importan
t thing, especially if you are using an HVLP gun. More at higher pressure
is always better. Look at the amperage of the motor (inrush and running) a
nd get the appropriate sized wire for it rather than spending a bunch on a
extension cord. 15amp = 14GA, 20amp=12GA, 30 amp=10GA, etc. Even at
100 feet 12GA is more than enough. I went with an IR compressor and it's
served me very well so far.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/detail.asp?pcID=1&paID=1010&sonID=469&pa
ge=1&productID=28825
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
Doug Medema wrote:
I'm equipping my paint booth and have come up with some questions.
I'm planning on buying the DeVilbiss FinishLine 3 HVLP spray gun.
This gun takes more air than my little 2hp compressor can deliver so
I'm going to buy a bigger one.
I'm choosing between the Kobalt 60 gallon single stage from Lowes or
the Husky Pro 60 gallon single stage from Home Depot.
I'd stay away from single cykinder single stage compressors. they'll run a
lot longer with the attendant noise .... whatever it is!
Both have
15 amp 230 volt motors. The Kobalt has better specs as far as
SCFM is concerned. The pump has a cast iron case and cylinder
(though the cylinder head appears to be aluminum). It is a single
cylinder pump. The Husky Pro has a two cylinder compressor, but
the cylinders are aluminum with supposedly an iron or steel sleeve.
The Kobalt gives a noise rating of 76dBa which seems fairly quiet for
a compressor of this size. Both cost $400. I would probably just
choose the Kobalt, but there are some horror stories on the internet
about problems with Kobalt compressors and getting them serviced.
1) Anybody out there have experience with either of these compressors?
Things you like? Things you dislike?
No experience with either. I have a two stage 60 gal compressor from Home
depot ..... around $350 a few years back. It's worked well with everything
I've thrown at it.
2) My painting area is quite a ways away from where I have 230Volt power.
I was originally planning to buy a 100 foot 10 gauge extension cord, cu
t
off the ends, and wire it to the compressor and a plug that fits my 230
outlets. Those cords are almost $100 right now! I already have 100 fe
et of
3/8" I.D. air hose. Will I have any problems running an HVLP gun
off 100 feet of air hose?
Buy a 100' box of #10 romex. Hell of a lot cheaper than the extension cord
and will work fine.
3) I could bring my old compressor into my paint booth and use it's 20
gallon tank as a more local air storage tank. Would this help any
problems associated with using 100 feet of air hose?
Actually, it will. The hose will stretch in size at full pressure, and the
pressure will drop significantly in the first few seconds of paint sprayin
g. The built-in regulator will help too.
Thanks for your help. I'm getting close to starting the painting process!
Well it's just my opinion, but I think you'll be far ahead of the game with
the romex and the two stage compressor near your painting project.
Linn
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
2:23 PM
Message 4
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| Subject: | N64PR First Flight |
Paul,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>Subject: RV-List: N64PR First Flight
>Date: Mon, 7 May 2007 22:03:44 -0400
>
>Thanks to all who have provided me with info on this site. Today I flew my
>RV8 with TMX-IO360 and Hartzell Constant speed prop for the first time.
>Flew straight and level hands off, no adjustments needed. The acceleration
>is amazing. Now on to the small finish items.
>
>Paul Rice
_________________________________________________________________
See what youre getting intobefore you go there
http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507
Message 5
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| Subject: | Compressor & Painting Questions |
As far as using a 100foot hose, just put your regulator at the painting end
of the hose and you would be fine.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
Doug Medema wrote:
I'm equipping my paint booth and have come up with some questions.
I'm planning on buying the DeVilbiss FinishLine 3 HVLP spray gun.
This gun takes more air than my little 2hp compressor can deliver so
I'm going to buy a bigger one.
I'm choosing between the Kobalt 60 gallon single stage from Lowes or
the Husky Pro 60 gallon single stage from Home Depot.
I'd stay away from single cykinder single stage compressors. they'll run a
lot longer with the attendant noise .... whatever it is!
Both have
15 amp 230 volt motors. The Kobalt has better specs as far as
SCFM is concerned. The pump has a cast iron case and cylinder
(though the cylinder head appears to be aluminum). It is a single
cylinder pump. The Husky Pro has a two cylinder compressor, but
the cylinders are aluminum with supposedly an iron or steel sleeve.
The Kobalt gives a noise rating of 76dBa which seems fairly quiet for
a compressor of this size. Both cost $400. I would probably just
choose the Kobalt, but there are some horror stories on the internet
about problems with Kobalt compressors and getting them serviced.
1) Anybody out there have experience with either of these compressors?
Things you like? Things you dislike?
No experience with either. I have a two stage 60 gal compressor from Home
depot ..... around $350 a few years back. It's worked well with everything
I've thrown at it.
2) My painting area is quite a ways away from where I have 230Volt power.
I was originally planning to buy a 100 foot 10 gauge extension cord, cut
off the ends, and wire it to the compressor and a plug that fits my 230
outlets. Those cords are almost $100 right now! I already have 100
feet of
3/8" I.D. air hose. Will I have any problems running an HVLP gun
off 100 feet of air hose?
Buy a 100' box of #10 romex. Hell of a lot cheaper than the extension cord
and will work fine.
3) I could bring my old compressor into my paint booth and use it's 20
gallon tank as a more local air storage tank. Would this help any
problems associated with using 100 feet of air hose?
Actually, it will. The hose will stretch in size at full pressure, and the
pressure will drop significantly in the first few seconds of paint spraying.
The built-in regulator will help too.
Thanks for your help. I'm getting close to starting the painting process!
Well it's just my opinion, but I think you'll be far ahead of the game with
the romex and the two stage compressor near your painting project.
Linn
do not archive
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
2:23 PM
Message 6
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| Subject: | Zanon XRX antenna position |
I just purchased the Zaon XRX Portable Collision Avoidance System (PCAS) to
add traffic awareness to my cockpit. With it connected to my Garmin 396 I
want to move it (with its built in antenna) away from the recommended
glareshield mounting. For those of you with experience my question is will the
antenna work with it located other places such as below the glare shield or behind
my tip-up roll bar or on my lap (as long as it is 6" from any obstacle)? It
is a hard thing to test because it does not activate until you have climbed
200 feet and there must be another airplane nearby. I tried Zaon. They just
moved their operation and, consequently, their technical service is down for
a while.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, Sun 'n Fun 2006 Reserve Grand Champion Kit, 2007 Outstanding Aircraft
Homebuilt.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Tru Trak EFIS |
> Subject: RV-List: Tru Trak EFIS
> From: "B25Flyer" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>
> "The EFIS is smooth as silk. I love my Dynon, but
> it jumps around in turbulence. The Tru Trak is rock solid smooth."
That's because it's not an artificial horizon. It's a VSI and turn rate
indicator. It will show you pitched down as you're stalling with your nose
way above the horizon. It will look more stable because it's much less
responsive and indicates something totally different than every other EFIS
on the planet. The heading on it is GPS track so it only updates accurately
once per second.
> "The entire unit is very intuitive and with little or no briefing someone
> should
> be able to jump in it and fly away."
>
>
Actually, it's not. It looks like it's an artificial horizon, but it's
something totally different. Someone just jumping into the plane will assume
it's a horizon and can get into some serious situations with it. It's going
to be the one instrument in a plane that will require serious training so
that people don't use it like they think they should based on all of their
years of experiences with artificial horizons. The heading tape isn't
magnetic so you can't fly ATC vectors with it, you can't use it for unusual
attitude recovery like you would an AH, and it will show you banking as you
slip.
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Tru Trak EFIS |
I don't have time to fully respond to this, but the information Ian provided
below is just WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. I'll put more when I have a chance later.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ian Jordan
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 10:14 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Tru Trak EFIS
Subject: RV-List: Tru Trak EFIS
From: "B25Flyer" < dougr@petroblend.com>
"The EFIS is smooth as silk. I love my Dynon, but
it jumps around in turbulence. The Tru Trak is rock solid smooth."
That's because it's not an artificial horizon. It's a VSI and turn rate
indicator. It will show you pitched down as you're stalling with your nose
way above the horizon. It will look more stable because it's much less
responsive and indicates something totally different than every other EFIS
on the planet. The heading on it is GPS track so it only updates accurately
once per second.
"The entire unit is very intuitive and with little or no briefing
someone should
be able to jump in it and fly away."
Actually, it's not. It looks like it's an artificial horizon, but it's
something totally different. Someone just jumping into the plane will assume
it's a horizon and can get into some serious situations with it. It's going
to be the one instrument in a plane that will require serious training so
that people don't use it like they think they should based on all of their
years of experiences with artificial horizons. The heading tape isn't
magnetic so you can't fly ATC vectors with it, you can't use it for unusual
attitude recovery like you would an AH, and it will show you banking as you
slip.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Zanon XRX antenna position |
I have a similar setup. My understanding is that the XRX needs a clear
(unobstructed) view fwd (i.e. not "behind" the engine). I have not done any
obstructed testing. Also FYI, I was having a hard time getting the garmin
connection cable from Zaon. So I ordered a bare pigtail from Garmin
https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=1083 for $27 and connected Garmin
yellow to XRX db9 #2 and Garmin black to XRX db9 #5, Garmin must be updated
to latest software, it works great!
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of PeterHunt1@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:05 AM
rv8-list@matronics.com; aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Zanon XRX antenna position
I just purchased the Zaon XRX Portable Collision Avoidance System (PCAS) to
add traffic awareness to my cockpit. With it connected to my Garmin 396 I
want to move it (with its built in antenna) away from the recommended
glareshield mounting. For those of you with experience my question is will
the antenna work with it located other places such as below the glare shield
or behind my tip-up roll bar or on my lap (as long as it is 6" from any
obstacle)? It is a hard thing to test because it does not activate until
you have climbed 200 feet and there must be another airplane nearby. I
tried Zaon. They just moved their operation and, consequently, their
technical service is down for a while.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, Sun 'n Fun 2006 Reserve Grand Champion Kit, 2007 Outstanding Aircraft
Homebuilt.
_____
See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Texas sales tax (aircraft) |
Hi All:
There is no sales tax in Texas on AIRPLANES. The the State Comptroller, an
airplane has an N number, wings, and engine...you know, all that airplane
stuff. That being said, there is tax on parts (to build or repair an
airplane), same as there is on bubble gum and sodas, brake pads and tires.
I have no idea how all this would work on a salvaged aircraft -- seems to me
it is parts..non-flyable...but it is categorized as an aircraft.
My advice is to minimize the taxable amount -- report the price of the kit.
The case has been proven -- a fight would not be a good thing to start.
Sorry!
do not archive
--
Cheers!
Mark Frederick
Team Rocket LP
www.teamrocketaircraft.com
Tech Support 512.352.6979
0800-1000;1500-1630 CST M-F
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Unfourtunately it's time to sell my RV6 |
That sounds like a great plane, do you have any pictures to post so we
can get some idea how all these goodies go together?
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry LeGare
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 10:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Unfourtunately it's time to sell my RV6
Health issues have restricted use of my "6" and finally have made it
almost impossible to continue flying.
It was completed in 2001 has 260 hr. TT with 190 SMOH on the 0360A3M
with Electroair Ignition,new slick mag and a just overhauled Whirlwind
151 3 blade prop, Wolf air/oil separator Chrome Valve covers and
intake tubes, Just annualed, and more
CUSTOM FEATURES includes:--Center fuel tank(12.5 gal). All carbon
fiber tilt canopy structure with special locking access door. Easy
removable extended engine air snorkel. Carbon fiber extended vertical
fin. Bonded on composite gear leg and intersection Fairing. Special
ventilation and heater system with dual muffs, boots on all push rods
including flaps and a custom air extractor, means you will be warm or
cool, you decide. 3 density Temperfoam seats with lambs wool covering,
Single Link tailwheel steering,Carbon fiber elevator intersection
fairing, Vortex Generators, Baggage cover, heavy duty canopy cover,
Special floor and cockpit insulation, and more. ELECTRICAL:-
-B&C 40
amp alt and adjustable reg, 2 new B&C 12 Amp/Hr 400 CCA sealed bats
with either or both switching. Over voltage protection, Port on panel
for alternator diagnostics, battery charging port. Electric flaps,
electric elevator and aileron trim, stabs, dual landing lights with
wig wag setting and more.
PANEL:--MicroAir transponder and dual MicroAir radios, intercom with
built in noise canceling headsets(2) Rocky Mnt Uencoder & Umonitor for
engine, ECI CHT/EGT analiser, ECI dual Fuel gauge, Bendix King color
GPS, True Track auto pilot, AOA with voice warning, Dynon D10A Efis
just factory upgraded, left side throttle/mixtue/prop, controls, G
meter, Parking brake, Electonic ignition advance gauge, Sony FM/CD
player, Glove box, Wood grain accents, and more
It has always been hangered in dry climate area(last four years Paso
Robles). The only thing she needs is a paint job,It has been primered
since I first started flying. Yes, Laird you are right you should
always paint BEFORE flying. This is my baby and I'm going to miss her,
hoping to find her a good home. I'm posting it with you guys and the
Matronics List before I go to Trade A Plane. So the big question is
how much? Any help would be appreciated.
Garry "Casper" LeGare
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Tru Trak EFIS |
Be interested in your rebuttal, Stein, because from what is posted on
the TruTrak Web page (below)
it sure appears that pitch attitude is primarily based on vertical speed
(gyro enhanced).
Ed
----- Original MesADI
Bank angle is instantaneous gyro data.
Pitch is gyro enhanced vertical speed.
Direction is an electronic DG showing
track. Extreme bank angle is enunciated by flashing red arrows
which indicate required stick motion to correct unusual attitude. Low
airspeed warning is enunciated by flashing A-S on the display. Solid
state rate gyros for pitch and roll.
sage -----
From: SteinAir, Inc.
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Tru Trak EFIS
I don't have time to fully respond to this, but the information Ian
provided below is just WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. I'll put more when I have a
chance later.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ian Jordan
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 10:14 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Tru Trak EFIS
Subject: RV-List: Tru Trak EFIS
From: "B25Flyer" < dougr@petroblend.com>
"The EFIS is smooth as silk. I love my Dynon, but
it jumps around in turbulence. The Tru Trak is rock solid
smooth."
That's because it's not an artificial horizon. It's a VSI and turn
rate indicator. It will show you pitched down as you're stalling with
your nose way above the horizon. It will look more stable because it's
much less responsive and indicates something totally different than
every other EFIS on the planet. The heading on it is GPS track so it
only updates accurately once per second.
"The entire unit is very intuitive and with little or no briefing
someone should
be able to jump in it and fly away."
Actually, it's not. It looks like it's an artificial horizon, but
it's something totally different. Someone just jumping into the plane
will assume it's a horizon and can get into some serious situations with
it. It's going to be the one instrument in a plane that will require
serious training so that people don't use it like they think they should
based on all of their years of experiences with artificial horizons. The
heading tape isn't magnetic so you can't fly ATC vectors with it, you
can't use it for unusual attitude recovery like you would an AH, and it
will show you banking as you slip.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Tru Trak EFIS |
Be interested in your rebuttal, Stein, because from what is posted on
the TruTrak Web page (below)
it sure appears that pitch attitude is primarily based on vertical speed
(gyro enhanced).
Ed
----- Original MesADI
Bank angle is instantaneous gyro data.
Pitch is gyro enhanced vertical speed.
Direction is an electronic DG showing
track. Extreme bank angle is enunciated by flashing red arrows
which indicate required stick motion to correct unusual attitude. Low
airspeed warning is enunciated by flashing A-S on the display. Solid
state rate gyros for pitch and roll.
sage -----
From: SteinAir, Inc.
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Tru Trak EFIS
I don't have time to fully respond to this, but the information Ian
provided below is just WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. I'll put more when I have a
chance later.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ian Jordan
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 10:14 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Tru Trak EFIS
Subject: RV-List: Tru Trak EFIS
From: "B25Flyer" < dougr@petroblend.com>
"The EFIS is smooth as silk. I love my Dynon, but
it jumps around in turbulence. The Tru Trak is rock solid
smooth."
That's because it's not an artificial horizon. It's a VSI and turn
rate indicator. It will show you pitched down as you're stalling with
your nose way above the horizon. It will look more stable because it's
much less responsive and indicates something totally different than
every other EFIS on the planet. The heading on it is GPS track so it
only updates accurately once per second.
"The entire unit is very intuitive and with little or no briefing
someone should
be able to jump in it and fly away."
Actually, it's not. It looks like it's an artificial horizon, but
it's something totally different. Someone just jumping into the plane
will assume it's a horizon and can get into some serious situations with
it. It's going to be the one instrument in a plane that will require
serious training so that people don't use it like they think they should
based on all of their years of experiences with artificial horizons. The
heading tape isn't magnetic so you can't fly ATC vectors with it, you
can't use it for unusual attitude recovery like you would an AH, and it
will show you banking as you slip.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re:N number requirements |
Dale,
Good question. To start, the 'N' number can also be placed on the vertical
fin (Check FAR 45.25). And there is a FAR that addresses size and width,
etc. FAR 45.29(c) says that the width of the character must be 2/3 as wide
as it is high except for the number 1 which must be 1/6 as wide as it is h
igh, and the letters "M" and "W" which may be as wide as they are high. FA
R 45.29(d) states that the thickness of each character must be of solid lin
es 1/6 as thick as the character is high. FAR 45.29(e) says that the spaci
ng between characters may not be less than 1/4 of the character width.
Or you could just look up FAR 45.21 through 45.29 on the web and read all o
f it. I hope this gets you close to what you wanted. If not let me know.
Mike Robertson
From: densing@carolina.rr.comTo: rv-list@matronics.comSubject: RV-List: Re:
N number requirementsDate: Tue, 8 May 2007 18:52:23 -0400
To Das Fed
aka Mike Robertson
Are there any other requirements for displaying the N number on the fuselag
e of an Experimental aircraft other than; three inches high, horizontal pat
tern located between trailing edge of wing and leading edge of horizontal s
tab, and in a contrasting color?
Any minimum width of the stroke of the letters/numbers?
Thanks
Dale Ensing
do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
Change is good. See what=92s different about Windows Live Hotmail.
www.windowslive-hotmail.com/learnmore/default.html?locale=en-us&ocid=TX
T_TAGLM_HMWL_reten_changegood_0507
Message 15
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| Subject: | Compressor & Painting Questions |
There is a substantial pressure loss with length of hose and material
constructed. Hard plumbing of the supply lines helps regardless of PVC,
copper or steel supply lines. The reservoir capacity makes a difference
in cycle time. Locating it away from the work area makes for a pleasant
experience. I found a cost benefit in using 230VAC rather than another
115VAC run. But then, I went nuts and bought a twin Ingersoll Rand and
thought I could hide it from my wife.
Draining the tank is an important feature as well.
Harbor Freight is offering disposable inline filters - Item 38159 for
$2.99 (Save 2 bucks with an email coupon) through 5/12.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
It's highly recommended to extend an air compressor's range via hose,
rather than wire. I believe the owner's manual for most any compressor
will tell you this. The most common hose size is 3/8", with =BC" being
the cheap stuff. If you're concerned about air flow, use =BD" hose.
You could go larger, but I doubt you'd need it. =BD" hose and fittings
are fairly common.
It sounds to me like either compressor you mentioned will be more than
enough. I can't speak to the servicing of either compressor.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Medema
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
I'm equipping my paint booth and have come up with some questions.
I'm planning on buying the DeVilbiss FinishLine 3 HVLP spray gun.
This gun takes more air than my little 2hp compressor can deliver so
I'm going to buy a bigger one.
I'm choosing between the Kobalt 60 gallon single stage from Lowes or
the Husky Pro 60 gallon single stage from Home Depot. Both have
15 amp 230 volt motors. The Kobalt has better specs as far as
SCFM is concerned. The pump has a cast iron case and cylinder
(though the cylinder head appears to be aluminum). It is a single
cylinder pump. The Husky Pro has a two cylinder compressor, but
the cylinders are aluminum with supposedly an iron or steel sleeve.
The Kobalt gives a noise rating of 76dBa which seems fairly quiet for
a compressor of this size. Both cost $400. I would probably just
choose the Kobalt, but there are some horror stories on the internet
about problems with Kobalt compressors and getting them serviced.
1) Anybody out there have experience with either of these compressors?
Things you like? Things you dislike?
2) My painting area is quite a ways away from where I have 230Volt
power.
I was originally planning to buy a 100 foot 10 gauge extension cord,
cut
off the ends, and wire it to the compressor and a plug that fits my
230
outlets. Those cords are almost $100 right now! I already have 100
feet of
3/8" I.D. air hose. Will I have any problems running an HVLP gun
off 100 feet of air hose?
3) I could bring my old compressor into my paint booth and use it's 20
gallon tank as a more local air storage tank. Would this help any
problems associated with using 100 feet of air hose?
Thanks for your help. I'm getting close to starting the painting
process!
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
2:23 PM
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
--> http://forums.matronics.com
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re:N number requirements |
Thanks Mike,
I knew is was somewhere in FAR 45 but my FAR/AIM does not include 45 and
I was not successful finding the actual FAR on the web. I'll try again.
Thanks again.
Dale
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Robertson
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re:N number requirements
Dale,
Good question. To start, the 'N' number can also be placed on the
vertical fin (Check FAR 45.25). And there is a FAR that addresses size
and width, etc. FAR 45.29(c) says that the width of the character must
be 2/3 as wide as it is high except for the number 1 which must be 1/6
as wide as it is high, and the letters "M" and "W" which may be as wide
as they are high. FAR 45.29(d) states that the thickness of each
character must be of solid lines 1/6 as thick as the character is high.
FAR 45.29(e) says that the spacing between characters may not be less
than 1/4 of the character width.
Or you could just look up FAR 45.21 through 45.29 on the web and read
all of it. I hope this gets you close to what you wanted. If not let
me know.
Mike Robertson
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: densing@carolina.rr.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:N number requirements
Date: Tue, 8 May 2007 18:52:23 -0400
To Das Fed
aka Mike Robertson
Are there any other requirements for displaying the N number on the
fuselage of an Experimental aircraft other than; three inches high,
horizontal pattern located between trailing edge of wing and leading
edge of horizontal stab, and in a contrasting color?
Any minimum width of the stroke of the letters/numbers?
Thanks
Dale Ensing
do not archive
t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
p://forums.matronics.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Create the ultimate e-mail address book. Import your contacts to
Windows Live Hotmail. Try it!
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Compressor & Painting Questions |
If you keep the hose at high pressure off the compressor and put your
regulator at the end where you are working, it shouldn=92t be a problem.
100
=91 of hose at 125psi should be sufficient if you are spraying at 35-45
psi.
Unfortunately I don=92t know how much volume is used with HVLP even
though the
HV stands for high volume.
Do Not Archive
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
There is a substantial pressure loss with length of hose and material
constructed. Hard plumbing of the supply lines helps regardless of PVC,
copper or steel supply lines. The reservoir capacity makes a difference
in
cycle time. Locating it away from the work area makes for a pleasant
experience. I found a cost benefit in using 230VAC rather than another
115VAC run. But then, I went nuts and bought a twin Ingersoll Rand and
thought I could hide it from my wife.
Draining the tank is an important feature as well.
Harbor Freight is offering disposable inline filters - Item 38159 for
$2.99
(Save 2 bucks with an email coupon) through 5/12.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
It=92s highly recommended to extend an air compressor=92s range via
hose, rather
than wire. I believe the owner=92s manual for most any compressor will
tell
you this. The most common hose size is 3/8=94, with =BC=94 being the
cheap stuff.
If you=92re concerned about air flow, use =BD=94 hose. You could go
larger, but I
doubt you=92d need it. =BD=94 hose and fittings are fairly common.
It sounds to me like either compressor you mentioned will be more than
enough. I can=92t speak to the servicing of either compressor.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Medema
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
I'm equipping my paint booth and have come up with some questions.
I'm planning on buying the DeVilbiss FinishLine 3 HVLP spray gun.
This gun takes more air than my little 2hp compressor can deliver so
I'm going to buy a bigger one.
I'm choosing between the Kobalt 60 gallon single stage from Lowes or
the Husky Pro 60 gallon single stage from Home Depot. Both have
15 amp 230 volt motors. The Kobalt has better specs as far as
SCFM is concerned. The pump has a cast iron case and cylinder
(though the cylinder head appears to be aluminum). It is a single
cylinder pump. The Husky Pro has a two cylinder compressor, but
the cylinders are aluminum with supposedly an iron or steel sleeve.
The Kobalt gives a noise rating of 76dBa which seems fairly quiet for
a compressor of this size. Both cost $400. I would probably just
choose the Kobalt, but there are some horror stories on the internet
about problems with Kobalt compressors and getting them serviced.
1) Anybody out there have experience with either of these compressors?
Things you like? Things you dislike?
2) My painting area is quite a ways away from where I have 230Volt
power.
I was originally planning to buy a 100 foot 10 gauge extension cord,
cut
off the ends, and wire it to the compressor and a plug that fits my
230
outlets. Those cords are almost $100 right now! I already have 100
feet of
3/8" I.D. air hose. Will I have any problems running an HVLP gun
off 100 feet of air hose?
3) I could bring my old compressor into my paint booth and use it's 20
gallon tank as a more local air storage tank. Would this help any
problems associated with using 100 feet of air hose?
Thanks for your help. I'm getting close to starting the painting
process!
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
2:23 PM
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
--> http://forums.matronics.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor & Painting Questions |
You can always put one of these portable airtanks 5-7 gallons at the end
of the hose and before the paintgun, to be used as a pressure buffer.
Works just fine, as I did that many times before!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 12:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
If you keep the hose at high pressure off the compressor and put your
regulator at the end where you are working, it shouldn't be a problem.
100 ' of hose at 125psi should be sufficient if you are spraying at
35-45 psi. Unfortunately I don't know how much volume is used with HVLP
even though the HV stands for high volume.
Do Not Archive
Tim
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 12:48 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
There is a substantial pressure loss with length of hose and material
constructed. Hard plumbing of the supply lines helps regardless of PVC,
copper or steel supply lines. The reservoir capacity makes a difference
in cycle time. Locating it away from the work area makes for a pleasant
experience. I found a cost benefit in using 230VAC rather than another
115VAC run. But then, I went nuts and bought a twin Ingersoll Rand and
thought I could hide it from my wife.
Draining the tank is an important feature as well.
Harbor Freight is offering disposable inline filters - Item 38159 for
$2.99 (Save 2 bucks with an email coupon) through 5/12.
John Cox
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 7:21 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
It's highly recommended to extend an air compressor's range via hose,
rather than wire. I believe the owner's manual for most any compressor
will tell you this. The most common hose size is 3/8", with =BC" being
the cheap stuff. If you're concerned about air flow, use =BD" hose.
You could go larger, but I doubt you'd need it. =BD" hose and fittings
are fairly common.
It sounds to me like either compressor you mentioned will be more than
enough. I can't speak to the servicing of either compressor.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Medema
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:55 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
I'm equipping my paint booth and have come up with some questions.
I'm planning on buying the DeVilbiss FinishLine 3 HVLP spray gun.
This gun takes more air than my little 2hp compressor can deliver so
I'm going to buy a bigger one.
I'm choosing between the Kobalt 60 gallon single stage from Lowes or
the Husky Pro 60 gallon single stage from Home Depot. Both have
15 amp 230 volt motors. The Kobalt has better specs as far as
SCFM is concerned. The pump has a cast iron case and cylinder
(though the cylinder head appears to be aluminum). It is a single
cylinder pump. The Husky Pro has a two cylinder compressor, but
the cylinders are aluminum with supposedly an iron or steel sleeve.
The Kobalt gives a noise rating of 76dBa which seems fairly quiet for
a compressor of this size. Both cost $400. I would probably just
choose the Kobalt, but there are some horror stories on the internet
about problems with Kobalt compressors and getting them serviced.
1) Anybody out there have experience with either of these
compressors?
Things you like? Things you dislike?
2) My painting area is quite a ways away from where I have 230Volt
power.
I was originally planning to buy a 100 foot 10 gauge extension
cord, cut
off the ends, and wire it to the compressor and a plug that fits
my 230
outlets. Those cords are almost $100 right now! I already have
100 feet of
3/8" I.D. air hose. Will I have any problems running an HVLP gun
off 100 feet of air hose?
3) I could bring my old compressor into my paint booth and use it's
20
gallon tank as a more local air storage tank. Would this help any
problems associated with using 100 feet of air hose?
Thanks for your help. I'm getting close to starting the painting
process!
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
2:23 PM
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS --->
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Compressor & Painting Questions |
Don't forget that the fuel-air vapor of paint spray is highly explosive and as
such you should keep the air compressor out of the paint booth.
I'm sure that you already know that, but its worth mentionig.
Have fun.
---- "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net> wrote:
> You can always put one of these portable airtanks 5-7 gallons at the end of the
hose and before the paintgun, to be used as a pressure buffer. Works just fine,
as I did that many times before!!!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tim Bryan
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 12:56 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
>
>
> If you keep the hose at high pressure off the compressor and put your regulator
at the end where you are working, it shouldn't be a problem. 100 ' of hose
at 125psi should be sufficient if you are spraying at 35-45 psi. Unfortunately
I don't know how much volume is used with HVLP even though the HV stands
for high volume.
>
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 12:48 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
>
>
>
> There is a substantial pressure loss with length of hose and material constructed.
Hard plumbing of the supply lines helps regardless of PVC, copper or
steel supply lines. The reservoir capacity makes a difference in cycle time.
Locating it away from the work area makes for a pleasant experience. I found
a cost benefit in using 230VAC rather than another 115VAC run. But then, I went
nuts and bought a twin Ingersoll Rand and thought I could hide it from my wife.
>
>
>
> Draining the tank is an important feature as well.
>
>
>
> Harbor Freight is offering disposable inline filters - Item 38159 for $2.99
(Save 2 bucks with an email coupon) through 5/12.
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 7:21 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
>
>
>
> It's highly recommended to extend an air compressor's range via hose, rather
than wire. I believe the owner's manual for most any compressor will tell you
this. The most common hose size is 3/8", with " being the cheap stuff. If
you're concerned about air flow, use " hose. You could go larger, but I doubt
you'd need it. " hose and fittings are fairly common.
>
>
>
> It sounds to me like either compressor you mentioned will be more than enough.
I can't speak to the servicing of either compressor.
>
> brian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Medema
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 7:55 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Compressor & Painting Questions
>
>
>
> I'm equipping my paint booth and have come up with some questions.
>
> I'm planning on buying the DeVilbiss FinishLine 3 HVLP spray gun.
>
> This gun takes more air than my little 2hp compressor can deliver so
>
> I'm going to buy a bigger one.
>
>
>
> I'm choosing between the Kobalt 60 gallon single stage from Lowes or
>
> the Husky Pro 60 gallon single stage from Home Depot. Both have
>
> 15 amp 230 volt motors. The Kobalt has better specs as far as
>
> SCFM is concerned. The pump has a cast iron case and cylinder
>
> (though the cylinder head appears to be aluminum). It is a single
>
> cylinder pump. The Husky Pro has a two cylinder compressor, but
>
> the cylinders are aluminum with supposedly an iron or steel sleeve.
>
> The Kobalt gives a noise rating of 76dBa which seems fairly quiet for
>
> a compressor of this size. Both cost $400. I would probably just
>
> choose the Kobalt, but there are some horror stories on the internet
>
> about problems with Kobalt compressors and getting them serviced.
>
>
>
> 1) Anybody out there have experience with either of these compressors?
>
> Things you like? Things you dislike?
>
>
>
> 2) My painting area is quite a ways away from where I have 230Volt power.
>
> I was originally planning to buy a 100 foot 10 gauge extension cord, cut
>
> off the ends, and wire it to the compressor and a plug that fits my 230
>
> outlets. Those cords are almost $100 right now! I already have 100 feet
of
>
> 3/8" I.D. air hose. Will I have any problems running an HVLP gun
>
> off 100 feet of air hose?
>
>
>
> 3) I could bring my old compressor into my paint booth and use it's 20
>
> gallon tank as a more local air storage tank. Would this help any
>
> problems associated with using 100 feet of air hose?
>
>
>
> Thanks for your help. I'm getting close to starting the painting process!
>
>
>
> Doug Medema
>
> RV-6A N276DM
>
>
>
>
> 2:23 PM
>
> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS ---> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | RE: Tru Trak EFIS |
Ed,
The prior discussion/post was about the TruTrak EFIS. You seem to be citing
a reference to a different instrument - the ADI.
I'm confused. Does the EFIS use the ADI???
Rick
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Tru Trak EFIS
Be interested in your rebuttal, Stein, because from what is posted on the
TruTrak Web page (below)
it sure appears that pitch attitude is primarily based on vertical speed
(gyro enhanced).
Ed
----- Original Mes
ADI
Bank angle is instantaneous gyro data.
Pitch is gyro enhanced vertical speed.
Direction is an electronic DG showing
track. Extreme bank angle is enunciated by flashing red arrows which
indicate required stick motion to correct unusual attitude. Low airspeed
warning is enunciated by flashing A-S on the display. Solid state rate gyros
for pitch and roll.
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re:N number requirements |
Dale,
Try this link. I think it will work for you.......I hope.....
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgFAR.nsf/MainFra
me?OpenFrameSet
Mike
From: densing@carolina.rr.comTo: rv-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: RV-List:
Re:N number requirementsDate: Wed, 9 May 2007 14:04:25 -0400
Thanks Mike,
I knew is was somewhere in FAR 45 but my FAR/AIM does not include 45 and I
was not successful finding the actual FAR on the web. I'll try again.
Thanks again.
Dale
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Robertson
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re:N number requirements
Dale, Good question. To start, the 'N' number can also be placed on the ve
rtical fin (Check FAR 45.25). And there is a FAR that addresses size and w
idth, etc. FAR 45.29(c) says that the width of the character must be 2/3 a
s wide as it is high except for the number 1 which must be 1/6 as wide as i
t is high, and the letters "M" and "W" which may be as wide as they are hig
h. FAR 45.29(d) states that the thickness of each character must be of sol
id lines 1/6 as thick as the character is high. FAR 45.29(e) says that the
spacing between characters may not be less than 1/4 of the character width
. Or you could just look up FAR 45.21 through 45.29 on the web and read all
of it. I hope this gets you close to what you wanted. If not let me kno
w. Mike Robertson
From: densing@carolina.rr.comTo: rv-list@matronics.comSubject: RV-List: Re:
N number requirementsDate: Tue, 8 May 2007 18:52:23 -0400
To Das Fed
aka Mike Robertson
Are there any other requirements for displaying the N number on the fuselag
e of an Experimental aircraft other than; three inches high, horizontal pat
tern located between trailing edge of wing and leading edge of horizontal s
tab, and in a contrasting color?
Any minimum width of the stroke of the letters/numbers?
Thanks
Dale Ensing
do not archive
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re:N number requirements |
Any recommendations for companies that provide vinyl N numbers?
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re:N number requirements |
I had my vinyl N numbers custom made in Idaho Falls. I even had them use
the "drop shadow" style and they came out perfectly. It was a few years
back but they were VERY reasonable in price, If I remember correctly th
e pair was 90 bucks or so, they worked so well I went back and gave the
lady a 30 dollar tip..Contact me at my web site www.haaspowerair.com and
I will dig through my old invoices and get the name.
do not archive
Ben Haas, Jackson Hole Wy
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a@yahoo.com> wrote:
Any recommendations for companies that provide vinyl N numbers?
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
Idaho FallsAhhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
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========
<html><P>I had my vinyl N numbers custom made in Idaho Falls. I even had
them use the "drop shadow" style and they came out perfectly. It was a
few years back but they were VERY reasonable in price, If I remember cor
rectly the pair was 90 bucks or so, they worked so well I went back and
gave the lady a 30 dollar tip..Contact me at my web site <A href="http
://www.haaspowerair.com">www.haaspowerair.com</A> and I will dig through
my old invoices and get the name.</P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas,  
; Jackson Hole Wy<BR>N801BH<BR>www.
haaspowerair.com<BR><BR>-- Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a@yah
oo.com> wrote:<BR></P>
<DIV>Any recommendations for companies that provide vinyl N numbers?<BR>
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV><BR><BR>Sherman Butler<BR>RV-7a Wings<BR>Idaho Falls
<P>
<HR SIZE=1>
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?<BR>Check out <A href
="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.
html;_ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3
LWNhcnM-">new cars at Yahoo! Autos.</A> <PRE><B><FONT face="courier ne
w,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
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===========
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List</A>
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===========
tronics.com</A>
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===========
</B></FONT></PRE>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re:N number requirements |
Try www.aerographics.com, good quality and very reasonably priced.
Any recommendations for companies that provide vinyl N numbers?
Bob Trumpfheller
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