Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:16 AM - Re: cato prop (LessDragProd@aol.com)
2. 08:46 AM - Builder's Bookstore Bargain Basement (Andy Gold)
3. 09:38 AM - Sniffle Valve (James H Nelson)
4. 09:40 AM - Builder's Bookstore Bargain Basement (James H Nelson)
5. 09:57 AM - Re: Sniffle Valve (Konrad L. Werner)
6. 10:31 AM - Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query (Steve A)
7. 11:06 AM - Re: Sniffle Valve (don wentz)
8. 11:28 AM - Re: Sniffle Valve (don wentz)
9. 11:53 AM - Re: Sniffle Valve (Konrad L. Werner)
10. 12:29 PM - Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query (Dan Reeves)
11. 01:14 PM - Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query (Dwight Frye)
12. 01:57 PM - discounted speed with economy books sold out (Andy Gold)
13. 04:01 PM - Re: Sniffle Valve ()
14. 05:03 PM - Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query (Steve A)
15. 06:34 PM - RV-6A wings for sale (Dave Stuebner)
16. 07:27 PM - Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
17. 09:06 PM - Re: Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query (William Gill)
18. 09:48 PM - Re: Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query (Carlos A Hernandez)
19. 11:46 PM - Re: Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
Message 1
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You could try an MT fixed pitch 2 blade propeller. SST leading edge
protection, just like the constant speed propeller blades. Those that have tried
them, speak very highly of them.
My phone number is 805-795-5377.
I'm sure someone will recognize this is SPAM. Live with it.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
Some people need to be told when there is a better product available. :-)
In a message dated 05/20/2007 9:14:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Why don't you try a Sterba two blade wood prop. Ed makes a pretty darn good
prop at approximately one third the price of the Catto and his lead times
last year were only a couple months. His phone number: 941-778-3103
------------------Original Message ----------------------------------------
> 1. 05:02 AM - Re: cato prop non responsive (Ron Lee)
> 2. 04:50 PM - Re: cato prop non responsive (sportypilot)
> 3. 05:15 PM - RV Flight Bags (another shameless plug) (kirt klevin)
> 4. 05:47 PM - Re: cato prop non responsive (Kevin Horton)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Builder's Bookstore Bargain Basement |
We've got some items that were lost by UPS, finally returned, but got a
little banged up in the process. They are perfectly good books except
that the covers are just scuffed enough that we'd probably get less than
happy thoughts if I shipped them as new. So, lets just get rid of them
cheap.
So either you can buy these at the discounted prices shown below, or
pick one FREE with any other order over $100 from Builders Bookstore.
Please either order by phone or e-mail, or mention this sale if ordering
on-line. This is a temporary offer good only as long as these items
remain.
SPEED WITH ECONOMY
Kent Paser's excellent book on drag reduction techniques tried on his
Mustang-II. 99% applicable to our RVs.
http://www.actechbooks.com/speed_with_economy.htm
Regular $24.95 seven available for $15.00
COMPOSITE BASICS
by Andrew Marshall. Not really a necessary topic for RV building, but
still an excellent book specifically for kit and plans built aircraft
focusing on designing composite parts with the necessary strength for
various applications. http://www.actechbooks.com/composite_basics.htm
Regular $29.95 18 available for $15.00
And 2 other closeout items that we just no longer carry:
GEORGE ORNDORF RV CONSTRUCTION VIDEOS
RV-6 Fuselage - VHS $20.00 1 left
RV-9 Empennage - VHS $20.00 2 left
RV-8 Fuselage - VHS $20.00 2 left
RV-7/8 Wings - VHS $20.00 2 left
RV - 8 Finishing Kit - VHS $20.00 3 left
FLIGHT GUIDE - by Airguide Inc
cockpit reference book showing airport diagrams, frequencies, etc.
Include a free update from publisher
Central States $20.00 5 left
Eastern States $20.00 5 left
Thanks,
Andy
Builders Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
do not archive
Message 3
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Mark
I believe that the sniffle valve is for carburated engines. Its
purpose is to remove any fuel that might pool in the bottom of the air
cleaner from to vigorous application of the throttle during starting.
That is the fire hazard. With fuel injection, fuel is only put into the
engine at the intake valve. It will be difficult but possible to get
fuel to run back down and into the air cleaner area. Pumping the
throttle during start will not add any additional fuel to the slow moving
air stream. IMHO, anything is possible but with FI, you will have
flooded the engine seriously. to get in that condition. I could be wrong
in these scenarios but I am not installing one in my IO 360.
Jim
Message 4
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| Subject: | Builder's Bookstore Bargain Basement |
Andy,
I would be interested in the "speed with economy" book. How
shall we do the transaction?
Jim Nelson
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Sniffle Valve |
To the contrary, sniffle valves are intended for injected Engines with
the front intake sumps, I believe?
I am not sure if they are also used on updraft injected Engines. Please
correct me if I am wrong.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: James H Nelson
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 7:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Sniffle Valve
Mark
I believe that the sniffle valve is for carburated engines.
Its
purpose is to remove any fuel that might pool in the bottom of the air
cleaner from to vigorous application of the throttle during starting.
That is the fire hazard. With fuel injection, fuel is only put into
the
engine at the intake valve. It will be difficult but possible to get
fuel to run back down and into the air cleaner area. Pumping the
throttle during start will not add any additional fuel to the slow
moving
air stream. IMHO, anything is possible but with FI, you will have
flooded the engine seriously. to get in that condition. I could be
wrong
in these scenarios but I am not installing one in my IO 360.
Jim
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
Dwight,
If I understand Scott's suggestion, trimming the canopy frame will
reduce the flange thickness......the flange the canopy skin rivets to.
You can probably get away with some trimming, the question is how much
trimming before running the risk of the frame cracking later.
My canopy frame has the same problem on the right side. It sits about
1/32 high (if I remember correctly.......the canopy is off the fuselage
at the moment). The left side and center fit flush. I have seen
similar conditions to varying degrees on some other tip up canopy RVs.
You could trim the canopy frame, and add a doubler angle on the inside
of the frame flange. The doubler angle rivets to the forward facing
canopy frame web, and the canopy frame flange/canopy skin joint. The
trick is to make a doubler angle that fits inside the canopy frame
channel and follows the skin curvature. It can be done, but will take a
bit of work
I would opt for shimming the forward skin rather than trimming the
canopy frame. Shimming sounds like the easiest way out of this
particular swamp (other than doing nothing and living with the
gap....but I understand how tough that is!) . :-)
good luck,
Steve
RV-6A - tip up
Dwight Frye wrote:
> On the left-hand side (facing forward) it is almost perfect. I have less
> than 1/64th of an inch of gap and am quite happy. On the right-hand side
> (again, facing forward) I'm not so happy. I have about 1/16th of an inch
> of gap and I'd like to close that a bit.
>
> A suggestion I got from Scott Risan was to shave down the canopy frame
> bow along the front such that there is less distance for the skin to
> cover, and thus pulling that problem edge down lower.
Message 7
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Konrad,
you're correct, and for rear intake sumps.
When you 'prime' and after shutdown, fuel drips into the intake area and
runs down the intake tubes and puddles in the tubes that run thru the sump.
it's not uncommon for fuel to drip out the drain I have coming from my
'sniffles' after shutdown, or after a 'failed' start.
don
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Konrad L. Werner
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sniffle Valve
To the contrary, sniffle valves are intended for injected Engines with the
front intake sumps, I believe?
I am not sure if they are also used on updraft injected Engines. Please
correct me if I am wrong.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: James H Nelson <mailto:rv9jim@juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 7:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Sniffle Valve
Mark
I believe that the sniffle valve is for carburated engines. Its
purpose is to remove any fuel that might pool in the bottom of the air
cleaner from to vigorous application of the throttle during starting.
That is the fire hazard. With fuel injection, fuel is only put into the
engine at the intake valve. It will be difficult but possible to get
fuel to run back down and into the air cleaner area. Pumping the
throttle during start will not add any additional fuel to the slow moving
air stream. IMHO, anything is possible but with FI, you will have
flooded the engine seriously. to get in that condition. I could be wrong
in these scenarios but I am not installing one in my IO p; Navigator
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.nbsp;
available via href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 8
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Mark,
to theorize on your original question:
My sump has 2 of the valves, one on each side, and no amount of cleaning
them gets a 'perfect seal'.
Considering the 'design' of the sumps, if the valve does leak a bit, it's
likely a very small percentage of airflow in, and, affects all cylinders the
same, so I would 'think' that it isn't going to adversely affect your
mixture, especially since you are dynamically adjusting the mixture all the
time and 'monitoring' the end result.
I have wondered about this as well, and plugging the outlets completely
yielded no discernible difference in operation.
Don
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw@aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 11:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sniffle Valve
I am installing a Lycoming sniffle valve (included in Vans FWF kit) to an
Aerosport IO-360 and would like to confirm its intended operation. I
"think" it
is basically a check valve that should open when manifold pressure is equal
to
atmospheric (engine not running) to drain any fuel pooled in the sump.
Engine
running, it should close when manifold pressure drops. The valve I have
flows freely when blowing into the sump side, but still passes a bit of air
when
blown into from the tube side, which I surmise would constitute a small
vacuum
leak and possible leaner than normal operation.
Is this normal?
Thanks-
Mark
_____
See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Sniffle Valve |
Daser Don,
I should have just said Horizontal intake sumps (i.e front- and rear
intake). Thank you for clarifying this. But let me ask you this, why
would it not matter in a vertical intake FI engine?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: don wentz
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 12:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sniffle Valve
Konrad,
you're correct, and for rear intake sumps.
When you 'prime' and after shutdown, fuel drips into the intake area
and runs down the intake tubes and puddles in the tubes that run thru
the sump.
it's not uncommon for fuel to drip out the drain I have coming from my
'sniffles' after shutdown, or after a 'failed' start.
don
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Konrad L.
Werner
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 9:57 AM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sniffle Valve
To the contrary, sniffle valves are intended for injected Engines with
the front intake sumps, I believe?
I am not sure if they are also used on updraft injected Engines.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: James H Nelson
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 7:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Sniffle Valve
Mark
I believe that the sniffle valve is for carburated engines.
Its
purpose is to remove any fuel that might pool in the bottom of the
air
cleaner from to vigorous application of the throttle during
starting.
That is the fire hazard. With fuel injection, fuel is only put into
the
engine at the intake valve. It will be difficult but possible to
get
fuel to run back down and into the air cleaner area. Pumping the
throttle during start will not add any additional fuel to the slow
moving
air stream. IMHO, anything is possible but with FI, you will have
flooded the engine seriously. to get in that condition. I could be
wrong
in these scenarios but I am not installing one in my IO p;
Navigator
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
nbsp; available via
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
Dwight,
My frame was also a bit high outboard of the gooseneck's on both sides. Not
only was the canopy skin high in comparison to the front skin but the front end
of the side rails also extended a bit beyond the sides of the fuselage. This
of course was after all of the riveting was done. Everything lined up perfectly
and was flush on the sides before riveting.
I ended up wrapping a tie-down strap around the entire front bow of the frame
and ratcheted everything into alignment. The front corners of the frame were
pulled downward and inward such that there is no gap in the skins up front and
the front of the side rails are now flush with sides of the fuselage. Worked
for me.
Another approach might be to drill out the rivets of the joining plate in the
center of the frame and also from the tabs on the sides and replace / redrill
these such that the sides of the frame are pulled inward / downward more.
Good luck,,,shims / filler may be the best way to go for small variances though.
Just thought I'd present some other options.
Dan
RV-7A wiring
Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org> wrote:
I am currently working my way slowly through the canopy frame fitting
exercise. It is going well (after a long delay due to a kitchen remodel
that took 3 months) but I'm not -quite- there, and want advice.
In general the fit along the split between the forward top skin and the
skin on the canopy frame is good. At least the amount of gap is good. As
I move out from the center, past where the 'goose-neck hinges' go, the
canopy frame skin starts to ride a little high. In the center I have it
shimmed so that it is intentionally a little high, of course, to clear
the forward skin. But along those curves leading down to the side of the
fuselage I need to either lower the canopy frame skin, or shim up the
forward skin. Either works for me.
On the left-hand side (facing forward) it is almost perfect. I have less
than 1/64th of an inch of gap and am quite happy. On the right-hand side
(again, facing forward) I'm not so happy. I have about 1/16th of an inch
of gap and I'd like to close that a bit.
A suggestion I got from Scott Risan was to shave down the canopy frame
bow along the front such that there is less distance for the skin to
cover, and thus pulling that problem edge down lower. I have done that
a _tiny_ bit, but before I shaved more off of the frame I thought I'd
solicit any other input from the collected wisdom of the list. If I can
close that 1/16 inch gap, I'll call it good enough and will be ready to
drill the hinges and move on.
I really really want to move on. So ... help! :) Anyone got any more
advice beyond what Scott suggested? If so, I'm all ears.
-- Dwight
---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
Yeah ... Scott also said that it would reduce the flange thickness, but
that it was pretty beefy material and could take some thinning without
harm. I wasn't able to pin him down on a specific amount, though. :) At
this point I don't think I'm even close to thinning it too much, but I
am going at it -very- cautiously.
As far as fixing the mis-match on the forward edge of the canopy skin
goes, I agree that shimming is the easy solution. The gap I'm having
trouble figuring out how to close (and it is hard to describe, maybe I
need a picture) is the gap between the fuselage side skin, and the
right-hand (looking forward) _bottom_ edge of the tip-up canopy skin.
This is the edge that runs from the front bottom corner of the tip-up
canopy skin along the side rails of the fuselage.
I hope to fiddle with this more tonight, but am looking for any insight
folks might have to offer. It may be the case that I'm not the FIRST to
say that they'll glad when they are done with canopy, but I will be. :)
Thanks for the input!!
-- Dwight
On Tue May 22 13:30:01 2007, Steve A wrote :
>
>
>Dwight,
>
>If I understand Scott's suggestion, trimming the canopy frame will
>reduce the flange thickness......the flange the canopy skin rivets to.
>You can probably get away with some trimming, the question is how much
>trimming before running the risk of the frame cracking later.
>
>My canopy frame has the same problem on the right side. It sits about
>1/32 high (if I remember correctly.......the canopy is off the fuselage
>at the moment). The left side and center fit flush. I have seen
>similar conditions to varying degrees on some other tip up canopy RVs.
>
>You could trim the canopy frame, and add a doubler angle on the inside
>of the frame flange. The doubler angle rivets to the forward facing
>canopy frame web, and the canopy frame flange/canopy skin joint. The
>trick is to make a doubler angle that fits inside the canopy frame
>channel and follows the skin curvature. It can be done, but will take a
>bit of work
>
>I would opt for shimming the forward skin rather than trimming the
>canopy frame. Shimming sounds like the easiest way out of this
>particular swamp (other than doing nothing and living with the
>gap....but I understand how tough that is!) . :-)
>
>good luck,
>Steve
>RV-6A - tip up
>
>
>Dwight Frye wrote:
>> On the left-hand side (facing forward) it is almost perfect. I have less
>> than 1/64th of an inch of gap and am quite happy. On the right-hand side
>> (again, facing forward) I'm not so happy. I have about 1/16th of an inch
>> of gap and I'd like to close that a bit.
>>
>> A suggestion I got from Scott Risan was to shave down the canopy frame
>> bow along the front such that there is less distance for the skin to
>> cover, and thus pulling that problem edge down lower.
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | discounted speed with economy books sold out |
The discounted Speed With Economy books with the scuffed covers are sold
out. Thank you. But there are regular copies left at the regular price
as books and e-Books. Regular price is $24.95. The other advertised
items are still available as below.
Thanks,
Andy
Builders Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
COMPOSITE BASICS
by Andrew Marshall. Not really a necessary topic for RV building, but
still an excellent book specifically for kit and plans built aircraft
focusing on designing composite parts with the necessary strength for
various applications. http://www.actechbooks.com/composite_basics.htm
Regular $29.95 18 available for $15.00
And 2 other closeout items that we just no longer carry:
GEORGE ORNDORF RV CONSTRUCTION VIDEOS
RV-6 Fuselage - VHS $20.00 1 left
RV-9 Empennage - VHS $20.00 2 left
RV-8 Fuselage - VHS $20.00 2 left
RV-7/8 Wings - VHS $20.00 2 left
RV - 8 Finishing Kit - VHS $20.00 3 left
FLIGHT GUIDE - by Airguide Inc
cockpit reference book showing airport diagrams, frequencies, etc.
Include a free update from publisher
Central States $20.00 5 left
Eastern States $20.00 5 left
Thanks,
Andy
Builders Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Sniffle Valve |
My sniffle valve did not come with the FWF kit, it was a add on, glad to
hear they are now in the kit. IO360 RV8A 116 hrs and loving the plane.
Mark Rose 137MR
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 11:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sniffle Valve
I am installing a Lycoming sniffle valve (included in Vans FWF kit) to
an
Aerosport IO-360 and would like to confirm its intended operation. I
"think" it
is basically a check valve that should open when manifold pressure is
equal to
atmospheric (engine not running) to drain any fuel pooled in the sump.
Engine
running, it should close when manifold pressure drops. The valve I
have
flows freely when blowing into the sump side, but still passes a bit
of air when
blown into from the tube side, which I surmise would constitute a
small vacuum
leak and possible leaner than normal operation.
Is this normal?
Thanks-
Mark
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's free at AOL.com.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
Ahh, now I understand what edge we're talking about. How about using an
edge rolling tool or hand seamer to put a slight bend the the top skin
that overhangs the canopy frame?
Steve
Dwight Frye wrote:
> The gap I'm having
> trouble figuring out how to close (and it is hard to describe, maybe I
> need a picture) is the gap between the fuselage side skin, and the
> right-hand (looking forward) _bottom_ edge of the tip-up canopy skin.
> This is the edge that runs from the front bottom corner of the tip-up
> canopy skin along the side rails of the fuselage.
Message 15
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| Subject: | RV-6A wings for sale |
I am selling off/parting out the wings of a wrecked RV6A. I am going to
use the rest for my RV-7 project (except the cowling, for sale at a
later date).
The left wing is in good shape. No significant damage.
I don't think the right wing is not useable as a whole due to damage to
the spar, but, the fuel tank and the flap are good. The forward piece of
sheetmetal of the spar is messed up, and there are various dents and
dings to the rest of the sheetmetal, excluding the fuel tank and flap.
Also included are the pushrods and wing attach hardware.
So, does anyone know anyone who either needs repair parts, or someone
who is building a -6 or -6A who doesn't mind using previously flown
parts?
Dave
Location: Upstate NY(Capital District, 12053)
Message 16
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| Subject: | RE: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
Dwight,
The front edge (in the center area) of the tip-up opens both forward and up.
Consequently the gap must be a little wider than on the sides. When I
installed my gas struts the clearance changed again as the struts push the canopy
forward when closed. So after I got it all together I used filler to built
up the aluminum piece immediately in front of the closed canopy and sanded
and filed the gap until I got a really nice fit between the canopy front and
the fuseladge.
Now, once your canopy is on you will have to deaf with a front gasket which
seals when the canopy is closed. I have tried them all and finally decided
to design my own. What I developed is the perfect front seal for Van's RV
aircraft with tip-up canopies. I am manufacturing 250 feet (the minimum raw
materials I could order) and can give you a great price on five feet which is
all you will need for that front seal. My seal has a "C" channel which slips
over that rear facing edge down onto which the tip-up canopy closes. Anyone
else interested in a piece?
This tip-up canopy front seal, large lockable boxes for storage behind the
seats in side-by-side seaters and other neat RV stuff which made my RV-6 a
Reserve Grand Champion will soon appear on a web site I will soon have running
at PetesRVAviationProducts.com. Or contact me directly.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 SnF 2006 Reserve Grand Champion - Kit
SnF 2007 Outstanding Aircraft Homebuilt
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
Please post details.price, address, method of payment.and BTW, count me
in.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PeterHunt1@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 9:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Tip-Up Canopy Query
Dwight,
The front edge (in the center area) of the tip-up opens both forward and
up. Consequently the gap must be a little wider than on the sides.
When I installed my gas struts the clearance changed again as the struts
push the canopy forward when closed. So after I got it all together I
used filler to built up the aluminum piece immediately in front of the
closed canopy and sanded and filed the gap until I got a really nice fit
between the canopy front and the fuseladge.
Now, once your canopy is on you will have to deaf with a front gasket
which seals when the canopy is closed. I have tried them all and
finally decided to design my own. What I developed is the perfect front
seal for Van's RV aircraft with tip-up canopies. I am manufacturing 250
feet (the minimum raw materials I could order) and can give you a great
price on five feet which is all you will need for that front seal. My
seal has a "C" channel which slips over that rear facing edge down onto
which the tip-up canopy closes. Anyone else interested in a piece?
This tip-up canopy front seal, large lockable boxes for storage behind
the seats in side-by-side seaters and other neat RV stuff which made my
RV-6 a Reserve Grand Champion will soon appear on a web site I will soon
have running at PetesRVAviationProducts.com. Or contact me directly.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 SnF 2006 Reserve Grand Champion - Kit
SnF 2007 Outstanding Aircraft Homebuilt
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
William Gill wrote:
>
> Please post detailsprice, address, method of paymentand BTW, count
> me in.
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *PeterHunt1@aol.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 22, 2007 9:27 PM
> *To:* rv-list-digest@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: RE: Tip-Up Canopy Query
>
> Dwight,
>
> The front edge (in the center area) of the tip-up opens both forward
> and up. Consequently the gap must be a little wider than on the sides.
> When I installed my gas struts the clearance changed again as the
> struts push the canopy forward when closed. So after I got it all
> together I used filler to built up the aluminum piece immediately in
> front of the closed canopy and sanded and filed the gap until I got a
> really nice fit between the canopy front and the fuseladge.
>
> Now, once your canopy is on you will have to deaf with a front gasket
> which seals when the canopy is closed. I have tried them all and
> finally decided to design my own. What I developed is the perfect
> front seal for Van's RV aircraft with tip-up canopies. I am
> manufacturing 250 feet (the minimum raw materials I could order) and
> can give you a great price on five feet which is all you will need for
> that front seal. My seal has a "C" channel which slips over that rear
> facing edge down onto which the tip-up canopy closes. Anyone else
> interested in a piece?
>
> This tip-up canopy front seal, large lockable boxes for storage behind
> the seats in side-by-side seaters and other neat RV stuff which made
> my RV-6 a Reserve Grand Champion will soon appear on a web site I will
> soon have running at PetesRVAviationProducts.com. Or contact me directly.
>
> Pete in Clearwater
>
> RV-6 SnF 2006 Reserve Grand Champion - Kit
>
> SnF 2007 Outstanding Aircraft Homebuilt
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> See what's free at AOL.com
> <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503>.
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> * - The RV-List Email Forum -*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> * --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> **
> * - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -*
> **
> * --> http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
I'm interested...
Carlos in AZ
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
In a message dated 5/22/2007 9:29:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
PeterHunt1@aol.com writes:
When I installed my gas struts the clearance changed again as the struts push
the canopy forward when closed.
Here's a pretty simple way to control this:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4983_ (h
ttp://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4983)
>From The PossumWorks in TN,
Mark - RV-6A "Mojo" (with bling too!)
8-)
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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