Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:07 AM - Re: N11CB Flies! (Richard Dudley)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: Nose gear lube (Denis Walsh)
3. 06:19 AM - Re: CHT vents (Tim Bryan)
4. 06:25 AM - Re: Builder Support (Bob)
5. 07:30 AM - Re: CHT vents (Doug Gray)
6. 07:38 AM - Re: CHT vents (Tim Bryan)
7. 07:41 AM - Re: CHT vents (Ron Lee)
8. 09:18 AM - Re: N11CB Flies! (Charles Rowbotham)
9. 09:22 AM - Re: CHT vents (linn Walters)
10. 09:33 AM - Re: CHT vents (Tim Bryan)
11. 10:13 AM - Fw: Insurance Limitations (Ed Anderson)
12. 12:33 PM - Best software for logging build progress? (James H Nelson)
13. 02:49 PM - Best way to clean fiberglass (doug.medema@comcast.net)
14. 03:14 PM - Re: Best way to clean fiberglass (Tim Bryan)
15. 03:24 PM - Re: Best way to clean fiberglass (Bruce Gray)
16. 03:36 PM - Re: Best way to clean fiberglass (Bruce Gray)
17. 04:11 PM - Wingtip needed (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
18. 06:37 PM - Re: CHT vents (Bobby Hester)
19. 08:06 PM - Re: CHT vents (John Huft)
20. 08:33 PM - Re: Best way to clean fiberglass (linn Walters)
21. 09:36 PM - Re: Best way to clean fiberglass (Dave Nellis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: N11CB Flies! |
Congratulations, Charlie!!!!!
Worth all the hard work and head holding!!!!
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
Charles Brame wrote:
>
> After nearly eight years and 2700 hours of building, Van's kit #60316
> slipped the surly bonds at approximately 10:45 AM, May 28th, at San
> Geronimo Airport (8T8) near San Antonio. A Memorial Day to
> remember. N11CB, a slow built RV-6A Quickbuild, was powered by an
> IO-320 Lycoming with AFP fuel injection and Jeff Rose Electroair
> Ignition turning a Whirlwind 3 blade prop. Flown by owner/builder
> Charlie Brame, the bird leapt into the air after a 300 foot take off
> roll and flew straight and level with hands off and feet flat on the
> floor. IFR equipped, it weighed 1100# in prime. Many thanks go to
> members of this list, all the San Antonio area RV-builders, EAA
> Chapter 35, and, especially, to my very good friend, Paul McReynolds,
> EAA Tech Advisor and RV-Guru, RV builder Extraordinaire, 1987 Oshkosh
> Grand Champion and Orville Wright Award Winner.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear lube |
I would recommend not squirting anything in the grease fitting. Long
a go there were reports of excess grease melting/oozing down on the
bell washer and giving you the shakes on landing. Haven't heard much
lately.
Have been slathering a little #5 grease on the wear points after
dissassembly and put it back together, once a year.
Has worked ok for my first 3,300 landings.
P S check the big washers for burrs. Jerky is not usual. Be sure
and adjust tension for prescribed break out force.
Denis Walsh
On May 28, 2007, at 07:17 262740005, Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> My swiveling nose wheel has gotten jerky. Will just squirting a few
> shots of grease in the zert fitting take care of this or do I need
> to take it all apart clean, grease and reassemble? 65 hrs. on it.
>
> --
> Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/
> MyFlyingRV7A.htm
>
>
Message 3
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Bobby,
My plane was essentially self grounded till I could fix the high CHT
problem. I tightened up the cowl, sealed around the front intake ramps, put
a door across the back of my oil cooler (cooler temps around 160-170) and
absolutely no joy. Finally I added louvers I got from Alex De Dominicis in
Texas. I think you can reach him through his website at
http://www.RVtraining.com After this my plane was flying again. My CHT
will still climb to near 450 on climb out sometimes but will be under 400
for cruise. They do make a difference. I cannot say this is the cure all
as Kevin mentioned there is a reason mine runs hot and so many others don't.
I just don't know what it is.
My next step is to remove some more of the lower cowling around the exhaust
area as mine is particularly smaller since my scoop portion actually hangs
back over the airframe about 2 inches. I am going to remove all of that
this week before I fly this coming weekend. If you haven't done that, it
would be advisable. I am still trying to get mine down quite a bit more.
My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
without wheel pants or leg fairings.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 8:47 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT vents
>
>
> On Mon, 28 May 2007 07:50:47 -0500
> Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > Ron, I saw an old post about your cowl louvers. Are they what made the
> > big differance? My CHT's are getting up to 455 by about 2500 ft on climb
> > out and then I level off til they come down to about 430 then I climb
> > some more. At cruise I am seeing 410-420. I would really like to see
> > them more like 350 at cruise. This is at about 87 degree F OAT on the
> > ground. Any other suggestions? Were did you get you louvers?
> >
>
> Bobby - If I understand properly, you have a 180 hp engine. There are
> many, many RV-7/7As flying with this engine without CHT problems. While
> adding cowl louvers might bring your CHTs down, I fear that you would
> simply be curing the symptom, without really fixing the basic problem.
> This could lead to greater grief down the road, if the basic problem is
> significant. For example, some people have high CHTs due to a too lean
> mixture, caused by the wrong carb. If this were the problem, it would be
> far better to find it and fix it now.
>
> Kevin Horton
> Ottawa, Canada
>
>
>
Message 4
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At 09:11 AM 5/26/07, you wrote:
>When I started this project in Ann Arbor in '94 I
>was unable to locate any nearby builders. There was an active group
>somewhat north of Detroit, but the only help I got was from the shop at
>American International Airways, and they didn't know anything about the RV.
>In Chicago I could have had tons of help, but I wasn't able to work on the
>project there. In Flagstaff, I briefly met with a -9A builder, before he
>moved his project south, and there is now another builder who is about the
>same level as I.
Interesting. One reason I built an RV was because of the extensive
builder support. In the 90's when I built my RV, I built it in New
Mexico, Texas, California and West Virginia. Most of the time, I was
in walking distance of other builders, and I never lived more than 10
miles from a builder. This was all by chance.
I have found that looking at another RV is a very valuable
experience. Even though I am finished, I still look to see how
others did certain things. I have found that there is no one right
way to do things. Builders constantly amaze me with their innovative
solutions for building RVs.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
Message 5
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There has been discussion about two issues that may be a factor for you,
first was casting flash obstructing airflow and the second was adding
some spacers (washers only) between baffles and cylinders at the
mounting bolts.
Sorry I cannot be more specific I not familiar with the specifics,
others may be able to add detail.
Doug Gray
On Tue, 2007-05-29 at 08:18 -0500, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Bobby,
>
> My plane was essentially self grounded till I could fix the high CHT
> problem. I tightened up the cowl, sealed around the front intake ramps, put
> a door across the back of my oil cooler (cooler temps around 160-170) and
> absolutely no joy. Finally I added louvers I got from Alex De Dominicis in
> Texas. I think you can reach him through his website at
> http://www.RVtraining.com After this my plane was flying again. My CHT
> will still climb to near 450 on climb out sometimes but will be under 400
> for cruise. They do make a difference. I cannot say this is the cure all
> as Kevin mentioned there is a reason mine runs hot and so many others don't.
> I just don't know what it is.
>
> My next step is to remove some more of the lower cowling around the exhaust
> area as mine is particularly smaller since my scoop portion actually hangs
> back over the airframe about 2 inches. I am going to remove all of that
> this week before I fly this coming weekend. If you haven't done that, it
> would be advisable. I am still trying to get mine down quite a bit more.
>
> My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
> without wheel pants or leg fairings.
> Tim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
> > Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 8:47 AM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT vents
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 28 May 2007 07:50:47 -0500
> > Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ron, I saw an old post about your cowl louvers. Are they what made the
> > > big differance? My CHT's are getting up to 455 by about 2500 ft on climb
> > > out and then I level off til they come down to about 430 then I climb
> > > some more. At cruise I am seeing 410-420. I would really like to see
> > > them more like 350 at cruise. This is at about 87 degree F OAT on the
> > > ground. Any other suggestions? Were did you get you louvers?
> > >
> >
> > Bobby - If I understand properly, you have a 180 hp engine. There are
> > many, many RV-7/7As flying with this engine without CHT problems. While
> > adding cowl louvers might bring your CHTs down, I fear that you would
> > simply be curing the symptom, without really fixing the basic problem.
> > This could lead to greater grief down the road, if the basic problem is
> > significant. For example, some people have high CHTs due to a too lean
> > mixture, caused by the wrong carb. If this were the problem, it would be
> > far better to find it and fix it now.
> >
> > Kevin Horton
> > Ottawa, Canada
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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I should have mentioned; I did check for casting flash and did not see
anything significant. I may not have looked in the right place or something
however. I also did add washers to the rear of the baffles where they
typically would restrict the airflow around the rear cylinders. I saw no
difference in my application but others have so Bobby may want to check this
on his. Thanks for bringing these points up.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gray
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:25 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: CHT vents
>
>
> There has been discussion about two issues that may be a factor for you,
> first was casting flash obstructing airflow and the second was adding
> some spacers (washers only) between baffles and cylinders at the
> mounting bolts.
>
> Sorry I cannot be more specific I not familiar with the specifics,
> others may be able to add detail.
>
> Doug Gray
>
>
>
> On Tue, 2007-05-29 at 08:18 -0500, Tim Bryan wrote:
> >
> > Bobby,
> >
> > My plane was essentially self grounded till I could fix the high CHT
> > problem. I tightened up the cowl, sealed around the front intake ramps,
> put
> > a door across the back of my oil cooler (cooler temps around 160-170)
> and
> > absolutely no joy. Finally I added louvers I got from Alex De Dominicis
> in
> > Texas. I think you can reach him through his website at
> > http://www.RVtraining.com After this my plane was flying again. My CHT
> > will still climb to near 450 on climb out sometimes but will be under
> 400
> > for cruise. They do make a difference. I cannot say this is the cure
> all
> > as Kevin mentioned there is a reason mine runs hot and so many others
> don't.
> > I just don't know what it is.
> >
> > My next step is to remove some more of the lower cowling around the
> exhaust
> > area as mine is particularly smaller since my scoop portion actually
> hangs
> > back over the airframe about 2 inches. I am going to remove all of that
> > this week before I fly this coming weekend. If you haven't done that,
> it
> > would be advisable. I am still trying to get mine down quite a bit
> more.
> >
> > My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
> > without wheel pants or leg fairings.
> > Tim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
> > > Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 8:47 AM
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT vents
> > >
> > >
> > > On Mon, 28 May 2007 07:50:47 -0500
> > > Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net> wrote:
> > >
> <bobbyhester@charter.net>
> > > >
> > > > Ron, I saw an old post about your cowl louvers. Are they what made
> the
> > > > big differance? My CHT's are getting up to 455 by about 2500 ft on
> climb
> > > > out and then I level off til they come down to about 430 then I
> climb
> > > > some more. At cruise I am seeing 410-420. I would really like to see
> > > > them more like 350 at cruise. This is at about 87 degree F OAT on
> the
> > > > ground. Any other suggestions? Were did you get you louvers?
> > > >
> > >
> > > Bobby - If I understand properly, you have a 180 hp engine. There are
> > > many, many RV-7/7As flying with this engine without CHT problems.
> While
> > > adding cowl louvers might bring your CHTs down, I fear that you would
> > > simply be curing the symptom, without really fixing the basic problem.
> > > This could lead to greater grief down the road, if the basic problem
> is
> > > significant. For example, some people have high CHTs due to a too
> lean
> > > mixture, caused by the wrong carb. If this were the problem, it would
> be
> > > far better to find it and fix it now.
> > >
> > > Kevin Horton
> > > Ottawa, Canada
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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> My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
> without wheel pants or leg fairings.
> Tim
>
Adding wheel pants and leg fairings will add 10-15 knots at ZERO additional
power. That means additional cooling with no changes. Seems like that
should
be a priority.
Ron Lee
Message 8
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Charlie,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Charles Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
>Subject: RV-List: N11CB Flies!
>Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 00:01:55 -0500
>
>After nearly eight years and 2700 hours of building, Van's kit #60316
>slipped the surly bonds at approximately 10:45 AM, May 28th, at San
>Geronimo Airport (8T8) near San Antonio.
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6A N11CB
>San Antonio
_________________________________________________________________
PC Magazines 2007 editors choice for best Web mailaward-winning Windows
Live Hotmail.
Message 9
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Tim, place a lightbulb below the cylinder and look down through the fins
around the spark plug. There should be about 1/8" (maybe less) between
the fins. With the light, it will be apparent if the flashing is
there. I see it on almost every Lycoming cylinder I look at.
Linn
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>I should have mentioned; I did check for casting flash and did not see
>anything significant. I may not have looked in the right place or something
>however. I also did add washers to the rear of the baffles where they
>typically would restrict the airflow around the rear cylinders. I saw no
>difference in my application but others have so Bobby may want to check this
>on his. Thanks for bringing these points up.
>
>Tim
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gray
>>Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:25 AM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: CHT vents
>>
>>
>>There has been discussion about two issues that may be a factor for you,
>>first was casting flash obstructing airflow and the second was adding
>>some spacers (washers only) between baffles and cylinders at the
>>mounting bolts.
>>
>>Sorry I cannot be more specific I not familiar with the specifics,
>>others may be able to add detail.
>>
>>Doug Gray
>>
>>
>>
>>On Tue, 2007-05-29 at 08:18 -0500, Tim Bryan wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Bobby,
>>>
>>>My plane was essentially self grounded till I could fix the high CHT
>>>problem. I tightened up the cowl, sealed around the front intake ramps,
>>>
>>>
>>put
>>
>>
>>>a door across the back of my oil cooler (cooler temps around 160-170)
>>>
>>>
>>and
>>
>>
>>>absolutely no joy. Finally I added louvers I got from Alex De Dominicis
>>>
>>>
>>in
>>
>>
>>>Texas. I think you can reach him through his website at
>>>http://www.RVtraining.com After this my plane was flying again. My CHT
>>>will still climb to near 450 on climb out sometimes but will be under
>>>
>>>
>>400
>>
>>
>>>for cruise. They do make a difference. I cannot say this is the cure
>>>
>>>
>>all
>>
>>
>>>as Kevin mentioned there is a reason mine runs hot and so many others
>>>
>>>
>>don't.
>>
>>
>>>I just don't know what it is.
>>>
>>>My next step is to remove some more of the lower cowling around the
>>>
>>>
>>exhaust
>>
>>
>>>area as mine is particularly smaller since my scoop portion actually
>>>
>>>
>>hangs
>>
>>
>>>back over the airframe about 2 inches. I am going to remove all of that
>>>this week before I fly this coming weekend. If you haven't done that,
>>>
>>>
>>it
>>
>>
>>>would be advisable. I am still trying to get mine down quite a bit
>>>
>>>
>>more.
>>
>>
>>>My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
>>>without wheel pants or leg fairings.
>>>Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>>>>Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 8:47 AM
>>>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT vents
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>On Mon, 28 May 2007 07:50:47 -0500
>>>>Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>><bobbyhester@charter.net>
>>
>>
>>>>>Ron, I saw an old post about your cowl louvers. Are they what made
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>>>>big differance? My CHT's are getting up to 455 by about 2500 ft on
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>climb
>>
>>
>>>>>out and then I level off til they come down to about 430 then I
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>climb
>>
>>
>>>>>some more. At cruise I am seeing 410-420. I would really like to see
>>>>>them more like 350 at cruise. This is at about 87 degree F OAT on
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>the
>>
>>
>>>>>ground. Any other suggestions? Were did you get you louvers?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>Bobby - If I understand properly, you have a 180 hp engine. There are
>>>>many, many RV-7/7As flying with this engine without CHT problems.
>>>>
>>>>
>>While
>>
>>
>>>>adding cowl louvers might bring your CHTs down, I fear that you would
>>>>simply be curing the symptom, without really fixing the basic problem.
>>>>This could lead to greater grief down the road, if the basic problem
>>>>
>>>>
>>is
>>
>>
>>>>significant. For example, some people have high CHTs due to a too
>>>>
>>>>
>>lean
>>
>>
>>>>mixture, caused by the wrong carb. If this were the problem, it would
>>>>
>>>>
>>be
>>
>>
>>>>far better to find it and fix it now.
>>>>
>>>>Kevin Horton
>>>>Ottawa, Canada
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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>
> > My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
> > without wheel pants or leg fairings.
> > Tim
> >
>
> Adding wheel pants and leg fairings will add 10-15 knots at ZERO
> additional
> power. That means additional cooling with no changes. Seems like that
> should
> be a priority.
>
> Ron Lee
[Tim] You are right Ron. I wish I could stop flying long enough to put them
on. Actually we moved to Texas and are still living in our 5th wheel trying
to get a house built. The wife thinks it is a bigger priority. I wonder if
it would make my plane cooler thought? Hmmm.
Do Not Archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Fw: Insurance Limitations |
Thought some of you might want to be aware of an exchange my insurance
broker/agent and I had regarding a one sentence caveat - that I at least
had not noticed before this year's renewal
Coverage may be limited &/or Different during any restriction fly off
period
This is a restriction put in place by the underwriter (not the broker)
and pertains to the 24-40 hour period required for test phase before
restrictions are removed.
I also asked about the 5 hour test period after a major modification is
made - the response was that any kind of restriction or requirement to
conduct test flights fell under the same caveat.
What the coverage limitations involved was no passenger liability and a
10% increase in deductibles during that period.
Just thought I would mention it - your insurer may of course have
different rules.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
Message 12
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| Subject: | Best software for logging build progress? |
Jim,
There are several systems. I use the "expercraft.com" system.
Take a look. It is quite simple and I have used it for three years.
Jim
Message 13
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| Subject: | Best way to clean fiberglass |
All right all you painter types:
What is the best way to clean fiberglass before priming
and between cycles of PPG K38 followed by sanding?
Soap & water? Rubbing alcohol? One of the special
antistatic cleaners from Dupont or SW? Something else?
I've heard bad things about using acetone - I understand
it soaks into the resin and dries very slowly.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM -- finally painting (1st flight 11/2003!)
<html><body>
<DIV>All right all you painter types:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>What is the best way to clean fiberglass before priming</DIV>
<DIV>and between cycles of PPG K38 followed by sanding?</DIV>
<DIV>Soap & water? Rubbing alcohol? One of the special</DIV>
<DIV>antistatic cleaners from Dupont or SW? Something else?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I've heard bad things about using acetone - I understand</DIV>
<DIV>it soaks into the resin and dries very slowly.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Doug Medema</DIV>
<DIV>RV-6A N276DM -- finally painting (1st flight 11/2003!)</DIV>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Best way to clean fiberglass |
I haven't used it yet but I purchased Acryli-Clean DX330 also by ppg.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
doug.medema@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 4:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Best way to clean fiberglass
All right all you painter types:
What is the best way to clean fiberglass before priming
and between cycles of PPG K38 followed by sanding?
Soap & water? Rubbing alcohol? One of the special
antistatic cleaners from Dupont or SW? Something else?
I've heard bad things about using acetone - I understand
it soaks into the resin and dries very slowly.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM -- finally painting (1st flight 11/2003!)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Best way to clean fiberglass |
Contrary to what you've heard, acetone is still the best cleaner. It dries
very fast and doesn't soak into cured fiberglass lay-ups. Been there and
done that, many, many times.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
doug.medema@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 5:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Best way to clean fiberglass
All right all you painter types:
What is the best way to clean fiberglass before priming
and between cycles of PPG K38 followed by sanding?
Soap & water? Rubbing alcohol? One of the special
antistatic cleaners from Dupont or SW? Something else?
I've heard bad things about using acetone - I understand
it soaks into the resin and dries very slowly.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM -- finally painting (1st flight 11/2003!)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Best way to clean fiberglass |
After cleaning bare fiberglass with acetone, then after your first coat of
primer, use whatever cleaning solvent recommended by your primer
manufacturer.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Best way to clean fiberglass
I haven't used it yet but I purchased Acryli-Clean DX330 also by ppg.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
doug.medema@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 4:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Best way to clean fiberglass
All right all you painter types:
What is the best way to clean fiberglass before priming
and between cycles of PPG K38 followed by sanding?
Soap & water? Rubbing alcohol? One of the special
antistatic cleaners from Dupont or SW? Something else?
I've heard bad things about using acetone - I understand
it soaks into the resin and dries very slowly.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM -- finally painting (1st flight 11/2003!)
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
Message 17
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A local -7 builder has asked me to post here for a wingtip replacement as he
is unhappy with one of his. He needs a right side in the early -7/7A style
that came with the curved trailing edge and smaller nav light cutout. His has
some severe curvature near the rear (curves down on top, up on bottom between
attach line and outer edge) that would require more surgery than he'd like. If
a set is available, that might work, but his left side looks much better.
Thanks!
Mark - do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 18
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My engine is a Superior XP-0360
There is no casting flashing on the cylinders
I added a washer at the rear screw/bolt on the #3 cylinder to help cool
that cylinder.
I've sealed all holes that I can find.
Baffling seems to be sealing farely well.
The cowl exit is cut off even, all the way across.
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Doug Gray wrote:
>
>There has been discussion about two issues that may be a factor for you,
>first was casting flash obstructing airflow and the second was adding
>some spacers (washers only) between baffles and cylinders at the
>mounting bolts.
>
>Sorry I cannot be more specific I not familiar with the specifics,
>others may be able to add detail.
>
>Doug Gray
>
>
>On Tue, 2007-05-29 at 08:18 -0500, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Bobby,
>>
>>My plane was essentially self grounded till I could fix the high CHT
>>problem. I tightened up the cowl, sealed around the front intake ramps, put
>>a door across the back of my oil cooler (cooler temps around 160-170) and
>>absolutely no joy. Finally I added louvers I got from Alex De Dominicis in
>>Texas. I think you can reach him through his website at
>>http://www.RVtraining.com After this my plane was flying again. My CHT
>>will still climb to near 450 on climb out sometimes but will be under 400
>>for cruise. They do make a difference. I cannot say this is the cure all
>>as Kevin mentioned there is a reason mine runs hot and so many others don't.
>>I just don't know what it is.
>>
>>My next step is to remove some more of the lower cowling around the exhaust
>>area as mine is particularly smaller since my scoop portion actually hangs
>>back over the airframe about 2 inches. I am going to remove all of that
>>this week before I fly this coming weekend. If you haven't done that, it
>>would be advisable. I am still trying to get mine down quite a bit more.
>>
>>My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
>>without wheel pants or leg fairings.
>>Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>>>Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 8:47 AM
>>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT vents
>>>
>>>
>>>On Mon, 28 May 2007 07:50:47 -0500
>>>Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Ron, I saw an old post about your cowl louvers. Are they what made the
>>>>big differance? My CHT's are getting up to 455 by about 2500 ft on climb
>>>>out and then I level off til they come down to about 430 then I climb
>>>>some more. At cruise I am seeing 410-420. I would really like to see
>>>>them more like 350 at cruise. This is at about 87 degree F OAT on the
>>>>ground. Any other suggestions? Were did you get you louvers?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>Bobby - If I understand properly, you have a 180 hp engine. There are
>>>many, many RV-7/7As flying with this engine without CHT problems. While
>>>adding cowl louvers might bring your CHTs down, I fear that you would
>>>simply be curing the symptom, without really fixing the basic problem.
>>>This could lead to greater grief down the road, if the basic problem is
>>>significant. For example, some people have high CHTs due to a too lean
>>>mixture, caused by the wrong carb. If this were the problem, it would be
>>>far better to find it and fix it now.
>>>
>>>Kevin Horton
>>>Ottawa, Canada
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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Bobby, have you checked the mag timing? Not using LASAR are you?
The other common problem is too lean a mixture...do you have the usual
50 rpm rise when you pull the mixture to idle cutoff when shutting down?
The baffles that come with the engine, that go in between the cylinders
often have some pretty big holes where they go up against the case.
I think Kevin is right, the basic design of the cowl has worked on many
similar engines...I wouldn't cut it up unless I had tried every other
possibility.
Good luck, John
Bobby Hester wrote:
> My engine is a Superior XP-0360
> There is no casting flashing on the cylinders
> I added a washer at the rear screw/bolt on the #3 cylinder to help
> cool that cylinder.
> I've sealed all holes that I can find.
> Baffling seems to be sealing farely well.
> The cowl exit is cut off even, all the way across.
>
> Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
>
>
> Doug Gray wrote:
>>
>> There has been discussion about two issues that may be a factor for you,
>> first was casting flash obstructing airflow and the second was adding
>> some spacers (washers only) between baffles and cylinders at the
>> mounting bolts.
>>
>> Sorry I cannot be more specific I not familiar with the specifics,
>> others may be able to add detail.
>>
>> Doug Gray
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, 2007-05-29 at 08:18 -0500, Tim Bryan wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Bobby,
>>>
>>> My plane was essentially self grounded till I could fix the high CHT
>>> problem. I tightened up the cowl, sealed around the front intake ramps, put
>>> a door across the back of my oil cooler (cooler temps around 160-170) and
>>> absolutely no joy. Finally I added louvers I got from Alex De Dominicis in
>>> Texas. I think you can reach him through his website at
>>> http://www.RVtraining.com After this my plane was flying again. My CHT
>>> will still climb to near 450 on climb out sometimes but will be under 400
>>> for cruise. They do make a difference. I cannot say this is the cure all
>>> as Kevin mentioned there is a reason mine runs hot and so many others don't.
>>> I just don't know what it is.
>>>
>>> My next step is to remove some more of the lower cowling around the exhaust
>>> area as mine is particularly smaller since my scoop portion actually hangs
>>> back over the airframe about 2 inches. I am going to remove all of that
>>> this week before I fly this coming weekend. If you haven't done that, it
>>> would be advisable. I am still trying to get mine down quite a bit more.
>>>
>>> My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
>>> without wheel pants or leg fairings.
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>>>> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 8:47 AM
>>>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT vents
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, 28 May 2007 07:50:47 -0500
>>>> Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Ron, I saw an old post about your cowl louvers. Are they what made the
>>>>> big differance? My CHT's are getting up to 455 by about 2500 ft on climb
>>>>> out and then I level off til they come down to about 430 then I climb
>>>>> some more. At cruise I am seeing 410-420. I would really like to see
>>>>> them more like 350 at cruise. This is at about 87 degree F OAT on the
>>>>> ground. Any other suggestions? Were did you get you louvers?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Bobby - If I understand properly, you have a 180 hp engine. There are
>>>> many, many RV-7/7As flying with this engine without CHT problems. While
>>>> adding cowl louvers might bring your CHTs down, I fear that you would
>>>> simply be curing the symptom, without really fixing the basic problem.
>>>> This could lead to greater grief down the road, if the basic problem is
>>>> significant. For example, some people have high CHTs due to a too lean
>>>> mixture, caused by the wrong carb. If this were the problem, it would be
>>>> far better to find it and fix it now.
>>>>
>>>> Kevin Horton
>>>> Ottawa, Canada
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to clean fiberglass |
Actually, if you're using polyester resin, the acetone will clean and
soften just the surface a little, which helps the paint stick a little
better. Acetone won't do squat to epoxy resins. At least in my
experience. Alcohol might be a better cleaner on the epoxies, but I
don't have experience there. But to answer you question, I use MEK and
Acetone for cleaning almost everything.
Linn
do not archive
doug.medema@comcast.net wrote:
> All right all you painter types:
>
> What is the best way to clean fiberglass before priming
> and between cycles of PPG K38 followed by sanding?
> Soap & water? Rubbing alcohol? One of the special
> antistatic cleaners from Dupont or SW? Something else?
>
> I've heard bad things about using acetone - I understand
> it soaks into the resin and dries very slowly.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM -- finally painting (1st flight 11/2003!)
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to clean fiberglass |
>From my RC modeling experience, I have used alcohol
for all cleaning of finished parts. Epoxy always
leaves a thin film of oil when cured. Alcohol does a
good job of removing it. For paint adhesion, sand
with 600 or finer and clean again with alcohol. I
just use the cheap rubbing alcohol from the aviation
aisle at the local drug store.
I worked for a friend for a while and his business was
making fiberglass cowls for model aircraft. He tried
polyester at first and switched to epoxy. The
polyester is always curing, always. In time, it
becomes very brittle and will craze and the piece will
look like a smashed windshield. Epoxy seems to retain
some flexibility or give.
I don't know why people still use polyester due to its
brittle tendencies. Maybe technology has improved it
since I used it. That said, I will take epoxy every
chance possible.
Dave
--- linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Actually, if you're using polyester resin, the
> acetone will clean and
> soften just the surface a little, which helps the
> paint stick a little
> better. Acetone won't do squat to epoxy resins. At
> least in my
> experience. Alcohol might be a better cleaner on the
> epoxies, but I
> don't have experience there. But to answer you
> question, I use MEK and
> Acetone for cleaning almost everything.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> doug.medema@comcast.net wrote:
>
> > All right all you painter types:
> >
> > What is the best way to clean fiberglass before
> priming
> > and between cycles of PPG K38 followed by sanding?
> > Soap & water? Rubbing alcohol? One of the special
> > antistatic cleaners from Dupont or SW? Something
> else?
> >
> > I've heard bad things about using acetone - I
> understand
> > it soaks into the resin and dries very slowly.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Doug Medema
> > RV-6A N276DM -- finally painting (1st flight
> 11/2003!)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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