Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:13 AM - Re: CHT vents (Dale Walter)
2. 02:50 AM - CHT Vents (PGLong@aol.com)
3. 07:12 AM - cylinder casting flash (Frazier, Vincent A)
4. 08:47 AM - Need Master Cylinder Spring Info (Snow, Daniel A.)
5. 09:19 AM - Re: Insurance Limitations (work around but takes effort) ()
6. 01:20 PM - Elevator tips - how to finish? (Bruce Swayze)
7. 01:20 PM - Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info (Glaeser, Dennis A)
8. 01:38 PM - Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
9. 01:43 PM - Major Price reduction (Garry LeGare)
10. 02:03 PM - Need Master Cylinder Spring Info (James H Nelson)
11. 02:29 PM - Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info (PJ Seipel)
12. 02:34 PM - Re: Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
13. 02:42 PM - Re: Elevator tips - how to finish? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 03:06 PM - Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info (Garry)
15. 07:15 PM - Re: Elevator tips - how to finish? (Tim Bolton)
16. 07:15 PM - GRT EIS 4000 and SKYSPORTS CAPACITANCE FUEL PROBES (RV4WGH@aol.com)
17. 07:40 PM - Re: Elevator tips - how to finish? (Larry Bowen)
18. 07:53 PM - Re: GRT EIS 4000 and SKYSPORTS CAPACITANCE FUEL PROBES (Bill VonDane)
19. 08:38 PM - Re: CHT vents (Bobby Hester)
20. 08:39 PM - Re: Nose gear lube (Bobby Hester)
21. 09:32 PM - Re: Major Price reduction (Garry LeGare)
Message 1
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The point about rpm rise at shut down has no bearing on the mixture at power
settings well above idle. Has the accuracy of the CHT gauge been verified
twice? I noticed on your website the sealing around the inlets. Can you rig
up a couple tape strips to determine if that seal is fluttering during
flight? The tape needs to be placed so that engine rock during startup and
shutdown will not tear it loose.
Good luck,
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Huft
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT vents
Bobby, have you checked the mag timing? Not using LASAR are you?
The other common problem is too lean a mixture...do you have the usual 50
rpm rise when you pull the mixture to idle cutoff when shutting down?
The baffles that come with the engine, that go in between the cylinders
often have some pretty big holes where they go up against the case.
I think Kevin is right, the basic design of the cowl has worked on many
similar engines...I wouldn't cut it up unless I had tried every other
possibility.
Good luck, John
Message 2
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Bobby, I had kind of a reverse problem, but also may work for you. My RV-4
couldn't warm the oil up enough. I closed by about 40-5-%, the lower cowling
area where the exhaust and air exit from cooling the engine. This brought up
my oil temps to normal. I just put a baffle plate of sorts to throttle the
air leaving. I would think that if you opened your up to allow more air to
exit, you would also get more air in and hence do more cooling. Wish you the
best.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N120PL
RV 4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 3
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| Subject: | cylinder casting flash |
http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm for photos and info on
removing casting excess flashing.
http://www.vincesrocket.com/Additions%20after%2010-27-04.htm louver
installation. I saw a 40 deg drop in CHTs. My CHTs rarely exceeds
360F in cruise and almost never hits 400F, even in a climb.
The best tailwheel available for your RV or Rocket... see below. Cool
vinyl graphics available too.
Vince Frazier
Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm
Message 4
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| Subject: | Need Master Cylinder Spring Info |
My brakes are sticking and I would like to install return springs on the
master cylinders. Has anyone added springs, and if so, can you provide
details?
Thanks,
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, 34 Flight Test hours
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Limitations (work around but takes effort) |
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Insurance Limitations
Yes most will not do first flight or Phase I.
However IF you participate in the EAA builder advisory program and EAA flight
adviser programs (both two and different things) and get TYPE training, they
will wave that restrictions, but you must jump through hoops. I have 1,200 RV
hours and 15,000 total, built a RV before and they still want me to do this for
first flight coverage on my new RV.
If you just show up and say no RV time, zero hours on airframe, they will say
OK, take your chance for the first 40 hours than call us basically. If you go
in with a certificate in RV transition training and approval from the EAA advisers
you can get first flight/Phase I coverage from some companies. Frankly it
is all a good idea insurance or not.
If the premiums are high enough you can get insurance for a student pilot, a
brick and cardboard wings with a jump from a bridge.
I'm not an insurance company fan, but there is some logic to their madness, not
paying out claims to people that prang it in early in their flight test. George
ATP/CFI-II-ME, RV-7
---------------------------------
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Elevator tips - how to finish? |
Fellow builders,
I decided to work on the fiberglass tips on my empennage while
waiting on my wing kit. The newer RV-7 elevators have lead
counterweights that stick out, rather than lie flush inside the
counterbalance arm. The fiberglass tip covers the sides of the lead
counterweight nicely, but the forward end is exposed and it shows.
The tip doesn't cover it. I'm wondering how to cover it. How are you
guys doing it? I've looked at a lot of web sites, but I haven't
found anybody yet that details how they did this. I'm looking for
some details and/or pictures.
It's very tempting to just slather on some super-fill or some
Evercoat Rage or whatever, and sand it down smooth and contour
it. But I'm wondering how well these materials stick to lead? Has
anybody researched this? And what about avoiding cracks developing
over time? It seems to me there should be at least one layer of bid
fiberglass over the lead, bonded to the fiberglass tip. Has anyone
done this? Any suggestions or pictures?
Thanks!
Bruce Swayze
RV-7A Empennage finished
Waiting on Wing Kit
--
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info |
I'm not flying yet, but decided to add 'helper' springs while I have
better access (top fwd skin not yet riveted).
I went to the aviation aisle of my hardware store and found springs that
were 3/8" ID and 3" long. 3.5" long would be better, but that was all
they had. I stretched the springs a bit to get more 'help' at the end
of the stroke. Another approach would be to either add washers, or a
short piece of tubing to compress the spring when the shaft is extended.
The ends of the springs had to be bent away a bit because they dragged
on the shaft, but once that was done, they slide easily.
I put a washer down first, then slid on the spring. I was going to put a
washer at the top as well, but it interfered with the mount. I wish I
had thought of doing this before the rudder pedals were in the airplane,
and I don't envy you having to do it on a finished airplane.
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A - starting to paint, waiting for my engine
------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
My brakes are sticking and I would like to install return springs on the
master cylinders. Has anyone added springs, and if so, can you provide
details?
Thanks,
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, 34 Flight Test hours
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info |
In a message dated 5/30/2007 10:49:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
Daniel.Snow@wancdf.com writes:
Has anyone added springs, and if so, can you provide
details?
>>>
Here's what I did:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=17458_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=17458)
...and by the way- I just added the above log entry to my Expercraft website
after not even looking at it in over a year, and even with a new format was
very easy- Riggen is a genius and I highly recommend his service! (unsolicited,
uncompensated and unconditional support for Expercraft- great stuff- Thanks
again Rob!)
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Major Price reduction |
My RV 6 is still available. It is listed online at the Trade a Plane
website for $95,000.
Besides what is listed in the ad there are a bunch of extras such as:
spare prop governor ( 50 hrs TT)
new complete ElectoAir electronic ignition systems with new wiring
harness for the plugs
Tail wheel
used fuel pump and magneto
Complete Lycoming service instructions, service manuals, parts manuals
and overhaul manual.
plus much more.
The aircraft comes with a complete annual at time of sale and I'm
willing to do the annual inspections for the next 5 years you just
supply parts.
Also I will spend 2 or 3 days with you going over the systems so that
you are comfortable with them, before first flight.
Also a complete flight check out is offered.
I will be leaving for our summer home around June 15th so now is the
time to make yourself the owner of a special RV6. The first person with
$75,000. will take it away.
Take care
Garry "Casper" Legare (805) 438-3451
garry@versadek.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Need Master Cylinder Spring Info |
Dennis,
Use a "set collar" on the top to provide the tension you want. I
did it to my brake cyl on both sides. check out my web site for the
details. If you can not find it there, I can e-mail you the pix I have
on how I did it. You should use a flanged oillite bushing on the bottom
so the spring rides on it rather than the topof the cyl.
www.expercraft.com/jimn
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
N15JN
95% done and 50% to go
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info |
I used the following from McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com):
1 6389K625 Nylon Bearing Flanged, for 3/8" Shaft Dia, 1/2" Od, 3/8"
Length, Packs of 5 $1.71
1 9657K115 Steel Compression Spring Znc-Pltd Spring-Tempered, 3" L,
1/2" Od, .047" Dia, Packs of 12 $5.29
4 9946K13 Aluminum Set Screw Shaft Collar 3/8" Bore, 3/4" Outside
Diameter, 3/8" Width $1.82
for a total cost of about $19 after shipping. Picture is attached. Not
flying yet, so I don't know how well it works.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Snow wrote:
>
> My brakes are sticking and I would like to install return springs on the
> master cylinders. Has anyone added springs, and if so, can you provide
> details?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Daniel Snow
> RV-9A, 34 Flight Test hours
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info |
In a message dated 5/30/2007 3:23:11 PM Central Daylight Time,
dennis.glaeser@eds.com writes:
I wish I
had thought of doing this before the rudder pedals were in the airplane,
and I don't envy you having to do it on a finished airplane.
Man, have you got THAT right! 8-)
Mark do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator tips - how to finish? |
In a message dated 5/30/2007 3:22:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
swayze@europa.com writes:
How are you
guys doing it?
>>>
I scored up the lead pretty well before installing the tips, then packed
epoxy/flox mixture in around the weight forcing the mixture back some around the
edges between the tip and weight, hoping this will stabilize it. Then I laid a
patch of fine (6-8 oz.?) fiberglass cloth around the whole thing &
smoothed/finished. Looks good so far (no paint yet) but not saying this is best
method
either. Kinda think the old style may have been an improvement...
Mark
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info |
I agree with Jim Nelson's post. My brakes were dragging too, and Jim fixed
me up with the Oillite bushings and set collars. The springs can be found
at most major hardware stores. Works great! Check out Jim's website.
Garry Stout
RV-7A Tampa Florida
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim@juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 4:56 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need Master Cylinder Spring Info
>
> Dennis,
> Use a "set collar" on the top to provide the tension you want. I
> did it to my brake cyl on both sides. check out my web site for the
> details. If you can not find it there, I can e-mail you the pix I have
> on how I did it. You should use a flanged oillite bushing on the bottom
> so the spring rides on it rather than the topof the cyl.
>
> www.expercraft.com/jimn
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A
> N15JN
>
> 95% done and 50% to go
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator tips - how to finish? |
My brother in Atlanta just finished his tips. You may want to visit his
website for ideas. http://www.n713db.com/ I've still got to do my tips so
let us know what you decide.
Tim Bolton
Charlotte, NC
www.TheRV7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Swayze" <swayze@europa.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 4:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator tips - how to finish?
Fellow builders,
I decided to work on the fiberglass tips on my empennage while
waiting on my wing kit. The newer RV-7 elevators have lead
counterweights that stick out, rather than lie flush inside the
counterbalance arm. The fiberglass tip covers the sides of the lead
counterweight nicely, but the forward end is exposed and it shows.
The tip doesn't cover it. I'm wondering how to cover it. How are you
guys doing it? I've looked at a lot of web sites, but I haven't
found anybody yet that details how they did this. I'm looking for
some details and/or pictures.
It's very tempting to just slather on some super-fill or some
Evercoat Rage or whatever, and sand it down smooth and contour
it. But I'm wondering how well these materials stick to lead? Has
anybody researched this? And what about avoiding cracks developing
over time? It seems to me there should be at least one layer of bid
fiberglass over the lead, bonded to the fiberglass tip. Has anyone
done this? Any suggestions or pictures?
Thanks!
Bruce Swayze
RV-7A Empennage finished
Waiting on Wing Kit
--
Message 16
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| Subject: | GRT EIS 4000 and SKYSPORTS CAPACITANCE FUEL PROBES |
Have any of you used the above combination?
If so, were there interface problems?
If so, how did you calibrate them? Looks like it will have to be done with
the tanks removed from the wing.
Regards,
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
RV-4 Finishing Kit
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator tips - how to finish? |
So you and your brother are both building the same plane? Very cool!
--
Larry Bowen
RV-8 300+ Hrs, RV-7QB in progress...
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
do not archive
On 5/30/07, Tim Bolton <timbolton@therv7.com> wrote:
>
>
> My brother in Atlanta just finished his tips. You may want to visit his
> website for ideas. http://www.n713db.com/ I've still got to do my tips so
> let us know what you decide.
>
> Tim Bolton
> Charlotte, NC
> www.TheRV7.com
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: GRT EIS 4000 and SKYSPORTS CAPACITANCE FUEL PROBES |
Hey Wally...
There are two different skysports fuel systems and only one of them
works with the EIS... I think its the one that uses the 0-5 volt
output, but dont quote me... See here:
http://airstuff.com/eshop/10Browse.asp
Call Sandy at GRT and she will tell you which one you need and how to
calibrate it...
616-245-7700
-Bill
RV4WGH@aol.com wrote:
> Have any of you used the above combination?
>
> If so, were there interface problems?
>
> If so, how did you calibrate them? Looks like it will have to be done
> with the tanks removed from the wing.
>
> Regards,
>
> Wally Hunt
> Rockford, IL
> RV-4 Finishing Kit
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's free at AOL.com
> <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503>.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
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I just double checked the timing on my Lightspeed Ign.. The timing was
just slightly off. I adjusted it and it is perfect now. Test flight did
not show any change in my CHT's. What I did find out is that I can tell
if the timing is correct by looking at the RPM drop on the Electronic
Ign. Before makeing the adjustment I had about a drop of about 20 RPM.
The first adjustment I made was not right and I got about a 200 RPM
drop. I found my mistake and made the correct adjustment and now I only
have a 10 RPM drop. When checking the timing on the lightspeed, with a
automotive type timing light, you disconnect the Manifold pressure hose
to retard the timing, The engine run quite a bit rougher like that,
which I beleive is how it would be running with two mags. When the line
is connected back it advances the timing and runs much smoother, all
this at about 850 RPM. This is some good info to find out. Now I've got
to get to work on those wheel pants and leg farings.
Superior XP-0360 65hrs and counting :-)
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bobby Hester wrote:
> My engine is a Superior XP-0360
> There is no casting flashing on the cylinders
> I added a washer at the rear screw/bolt on the #3 cylinder to help
> cool that cylinder.
> I've sealed all holes that I can find.
> Baffling seems to be sealing farely well.
> The cowl exit is cut off even, all the way across.
>
>Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
>Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
>
>
> Doug Gray wrote:
>
>>
>>There has been discussion about two issues that may be a factor for you,
>>first was casting flash obstructing airflow and the second was adding
>>some spacers (washers only) between baffles and cylinders at the
>>mounting bolts.
>>
>>Sorry I cannot be more specific I not familiar with the specifics,
>>others may be able to add detail.
>>
>>Doug Gray
>>
>>
>>
>>On Tue, 2007-05-29 at 08:18 -0500, Tim Bryan wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Bobby,
>>>
>>>My plane was essentially self grounded till I could fix the high CHT
>>>problem. I tightened up the cowl, sealed around the front intake ramps, put
>>>a door across the back of my oil cooler (cooler temps around 160-170) and
>>>absolutely no joy. Finally I added louvers I got from Alex De Dominicis in
>>>Texas. I think you can reach him through his website at
>>>http://www.RVtraining.com After this my plane was flying again. My CHT
>>>will still climb to near 450 on climb out sometimes but will be under 400
>>>for cruise. They do make a difference. I cannot say this is the cure all
>>>as Kevin mentioned there is a reason mine runs hot and so many others don't.
>>>I just don't know what it is.
>>>
>>>My next step is to remove some more of the lower cowling around the exhaust
>>>area as mine is particularly smaller since my scoop portion actually hangs
>>>back over the airframe about 2 inches. I am going to remove all of that
>>>this week before I fly this coming weekend. If you haven't done that, it
>>>would be advisable. I am still trying to get mine down quite a bit more.
>>>
>>>My plane is an RV-6 with 0-360A1A and constant speed prop. I am flying
>>>without wheel pants or leg fairings.
>>>Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>>>server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>>>>Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 8:47 AM
>>>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT vents
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>On Mon, 28 May 2007 07:50:47 -0500
>>>>Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Ron, I saw an old post about your cowl louvers. Are they what made the
>>>>>big differance? My CHT's are getting up to 455 by about 2500 ft on climb
>>>>>out and then I level off til they come down to about 430 then I climb
>>>>>some more. At cruise I am seeing 410-420. I would really like to see
>>>>>them more like 350 at cruise. This is at about 87 degree F OAT on the
>>>>>ground. Any other suggestions? Were did you get you louvers?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>Bobby - If I understand properly, you have a 180 hp engine. There are
>>>>many, many RV-7/7As flying with this engine without CHT problems. While
>>>>adding cowl louvers might bring your CHTs down, I fear that you would
>>>>simply be curing the symptom, without really fixing the basic problem.
>>>>This could lead to greater grief down the road, if the basic problem is
>>>>significant. For example, some people have high CHTs due to a too lean
>>>>mixture, caused by the wrong carb. If this were the problem, it would be
>>>>far better to find it and fix it now.
>>>>
>>>>Kevin Horton
>>>>Ottawa, Canada
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear lube |
I took it apart cleaned it up and lubed it real good, no more herkie
jerkies, nice and smooth :-)
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> My swiveling nose wheel has gotten jerky. Will just squirting a few
> shots of grease in the zert fitting take care of this or do I need to
> take it all apart clean, grease and reassemble? 65 hrs. on it.
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Major Price reduction |
The web link is www.trade-a-plane.com/unprotected/specs/52371.html
Greg Papendick wrote:
>Garry,
>
>I could not find your RV6 on the Trada a Plane website. Could you send
>a spec sheet and pictures?
>
>Regards,
>Greg
>
>Garry LeGare wrote on 5/30/2007, 4:41 PM:
>
> >
> > My RV 6 is still available. It is listed online at the Trade a Plane
> > website for $95,000.
> > Besides what is listed in the ad there are a bunch of extras such as:
> > spare prop governor ( 50 hrs TT)
> > new complete ElectoAir electronic ignition systems with new wiring
> > harness for the plugs
> > Tail wheel
> > used fuel pump and magneto
> > Complete Lycoming service instructions, service manuals, parts manuals
> > and overhaul manual.
> > plus much more.
> > The aircraft comes with a complete annual at time of sale and I'm
> > willing to do the annual inspections for the next 5 years you just
> > supply parts.
> > Also I will spend 2 or 3 days with you going over the systems so that
> > you are comfortable with them, before first flight.
> > Also a complete flight check out is offered.
> > I will be leaving for our summer home around June 15th so now is the
> > time to make yourself the owner of a special RV6. The first person with
> > $75,000. will take it away.
> > Take care
> > Garry "Casper" Legare (805) 438-3451
> > garry@versadek.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
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