Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:03 AM - Re: RV transition training (ddurakovich)
2. 06:27 AM - Re: Re: RV transition training (Dale Walter)
3. 06:27 AM - Re: Re: RV transition training (Dale Walter)
4. 08:03 AM - Re: Breather run into exhaust (Konrad L. Werner)
5. 08:09 AM - Re: Re: RV transition training (Vanremog@aol.com)
6. 12:52 PM - Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) ()
7. 01:20 PM - Re: Breather run into exhaust (Jeff Dowling)
8. 03:12 PM - Re: Breather run into exhaust (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
9. 04:34 PM - Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) (Konrad L. Werner)
10. 05:53 PM - Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) (n801bh@netzero.com)
11. 06:16 PM - Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) (PittsS1@aol.com)
12. 06:53 PM - Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units (David Burnham)
13. 08:09 PM - Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units (Sam Buchanan)
14. 08:20 PM - Cowl Air Temperatures (Andrew Olech)
15. 09:23 PM - Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
16. 09:38 PM - Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units (Konrad L. Werner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV transition training |
> We shouldn't have to round them up. If anyone out there is giving or knows
someone giving transition training, please provide me their info and I will add
them into the Yeller Pages. That is what it is for.
>
> I can't imagine anyone providing this important service (who presumably would
like to get even more business than they are currently getting) and would
not want to be listed in the most public RV listings possible.
I would urge people to use extreme caution when publishing this list!
A simple guess on my part, but I suspect that those CFI's that are not advertising
their services are just trying to help out a friend, and may not have a commercial
insurance policy ($6,000 to $10,000 per year premium?) or the requisite
FAA exemption for the commercial use of an experimental aircraft....
'Outing' some of these folks may have the reverse effect of driving the rest even
further underground!
--------
Dave Durakovich
RV-4, Flying!
N666PR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117032#117032
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| Subject: | Re: RV transition training |
Hi,
What does the 666 stand for in your number?
Happy landings,
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddurakovich
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV transition training
> We shouldn't have to round them up. If anyone out there is giving or
knows someone giving transition training, please provide me their info and
I will add them into the Yeller Pages. That is what it is for.
>
> I can't imagine anyone providing this important service (who presumably
would like to get even more business than they are currently getting) and
would not want to be listed in the most public RV listings possible.
I would urge people to use extreme caution when publishing this list!
A simple guess on my part, but I suspect that those CFI's that are not
advertising their services are just trying to help out a friend, and may not
have a commercial insurance policy ($6,000 to $10,000 per year premium?) or
the requisite FAA exemption for the commercial use of an experimental
aircraft....
'Outing' some of these folks may have the reverse effect of driving the rest
even further underground!
--------
Dave Durakovich
RV-4, Flying!
N666PR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117032#117032
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV transition training |
Oops, I meant to: do not archive
I hate when that happens,
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddurakovich
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:03 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV transition training
> We shouldn't have to round them up. If anyone out there is giving or
knows someone giving transition training, please provide me their info and
I will add them into the Yeller Pages. That is what it is for.
>
> I can't imagine anyone providing this important service (who presumably
would like to get even more business than they are currently getting) and
would not want to be listed in the most public RV listings possible.
I would urge people to use extreme caution when publishing this list!
A simple guess on my part, but I suspect that those CFI's that are not
advertising their services are just trying to help out a friend, and may not
have a commercial insurance policy ($6,000 to $10,000 per year premium?) or
the requisite FAA exemption for the commercial use of an experimental
aircraft....
'Outing' some of these folks may have the reverse effect of driving the rest
even further underground!
--------
Dave Durakovich
RV-4, Flying!
N666PR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117032#117032
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Breather run into exhaust |
Hi Mark,
I fully agree with you for not putting the crud back into the engine
after separating it. Your case is different though, as you accumulate
the crud until the next oilchange and then drain it.
But in Jeff's case he ran the vent tube AND the smaller drain tube onto
the exhaust to burn off everything that came out of the breather. So my
thought was why bother using a separator if both end up on the hot
exhaust anyway. I'd just run a tube onto the exhaust and be done with it
by burning both.
Cheers,
Konrad
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust
In a message dated 6/6/2007 11:15:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
klwerner@comcast.net writes:
Why do you have an oil separator if you don't reuse the oil in the
first place. What is the purpose of separating the oily air mix and then
discard both onto the exhaust pipe??? I'd remove the weight of the
useless contraption...
>>>
Re-using the oil is not the issue, which many say is a bad idea as it
routes nasty stuff back into the sump- keeping the "dirty side" less so
is. Better (IMHO) to collect as much blow-by crud that might normally
blow out onto yer belly and discard it with the old oil at oil change
time. See:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=517
2
Click on >>Next Entry>> for next 3 entries and on fotos for bigger
view. Here's the "proof in da puddin' ":
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=526
1
Just an option, but this has really worked out quite nicely after 415+
hours operation on my plane. Cheap, simple, effective...
From The PossumWorks in TN,
Mark
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's free at AOL.com.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV transition training |
In a message dated 6/7/2007 5:05:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
ddurakovich@yahoo.com writes:
I would urge people to use extreme caution when publishing this list!
A simple guess on my part, but I suspect that those CFI's that are not
advertising their services are just trying to help out a friend, and may not have
a commercial insurance policy ($6,000 to $10,000 per year premium?) or the
requisite FAA exemption for the commercial use of an experimental aircraft....
'Outing' some of these folks may have the reverse effect of driving the rest
even further underground!
========================================
That is their choice. If no one wants to be listed I am happy to oblige and
they have but to contact me to be removed.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 847hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) |
Let me be a little sensational or hype it, you are playing with fire.
Do what ever you want but you are adding weight, build time
(requires welding) and cost if you buy the (Mororso, Mr. Gasket,
Jegs, summit) crankcase evacuation systems designed for drag
racers.
What VAN recommends and shows on his plans is placing the
breather near the outside of the pipe with a angle cut INTO THE
WIND or facing forward, NOT aft. The air flow in the cowl is not the
same as inside the exhaust pipe. The key is the angle cut, but why
change it, if it ain't broke? Just follow plans that came with your RV.
Call Van and ask them. I think they know something about building
planes.
The idea is NOT to create suction or vacuum on the end of the
breather for some perceived increase in HP from reduced oil "Wind-
age". We are talking about a Lyc at 2,500 rpm not a 10,000 rpm drag
engine.
If you do suck more air out the breather its likely you will suck
more oil out the engine. You can put "metering pills" in but you really
are just getting back to what you had outside the pipe. The idea of a
0.125" orifice scares me. A piece of gunk could block that.
YES PUT THE Whistle stop in. A breather blockage could ruin your
whole day or life. Repeat a Blocked the Breather can Kill You.!
There is no guarantee in life and that is cheap insurance. Read
these:
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 050427X00513&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X22309&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X09800&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X18647&key=1
As far as comments about "I don't know how it can be blocked", I
say you have little imagination. There's a guy named Murphy that will
screw you up. Now why would you NOT want a whistle slot? A bug
or something could block it. You could accidentally pinch it while
working on the plane previous to the flight...........use your
imagination.
No matter how you vent the crankcase, the health of the engine has
more to do with the amount of oil going out the breather than the angle
of the breather tube end or where it's at. What ever you do don't
cut the breather end square.
Follow the PLANS is my advice, simple, light, works, won't freeze as
some imply.
George ATP/CFI-II-ME/RV-4/-7
---------------------------------
Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Breather run into exhaust |
I agree with you Konrad. I havent flown since I removed the return line
to the oil filler neck and I will now place the return into a small
glass jar just to see what come's out.
Thanks for the no brainer.
Jeff Shemp Dowling
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
> Hi Mark,
> I fully agree with you for not putting the crud back into the engine
> after separating it. Your case is different though, as you accumulate
> the crud until the next oilchange and then drain it.
> But in Jeff's case he ran the vent tube AND the smaller drain tube
> onto the exhaust to burn off everything that came out of the
> breather. So my thought was why bother using a separator if both end
> up on the hot exhaust anyway. I'd just run a tube onto the exhaust and
> be done with it by burning both.
> Cheers,
> Konrad
>
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Fiveonepw@aol.com <mailto:Fiveonepw@aol.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 07, 2007 12:52 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust
>
> In a message dated 6/6/2007 11:15:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
> klwerner@comcast.net <mailto:klwerner@comcast.net> writes:
>
> Why do you have an oil separator if you don't reuse the oil in
> the first place. What is the purpose of separating the oily
> air mix and then discard both onto the exhaust pipe???
> I'd remove the weight of the useless contraption...
>
> >>>
> Re-using the oil is not the issue, which many say is a bad
> idea as it routes nasty stuff back into the sump- keeping the
> "dirty side" less so is. Better (IMHO) to collect as much blow-by
> crud that might normally blow out onto yer belly and discard it
> with the old oil at oil change time. See:
>
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5172
> <http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5172>
>
> Click on >>Next Entry>> for next 3 entries and on fotos for bigger
> view. Here's the "proof in da puddin' ":
>
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5261
> <http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5261>
>
> Just an option, but this has really worked out quite nicely after
> 415+ hours operation on my plane. Cheap, simple, effective...
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN,
> Mark
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's free at AOL.com
> <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503>.
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Breather run into exhaust |
In a message dated 6/7/2007 10:05:37 AM Central Daylight Time,
klwerner@comcast.net writes:
So my thought was why bother using a separator if both end up on the hot
exhaust anyway. I'd just run a tube onto the exhaust and be done with it by
burning both.
>>>
100% agreed, just offering an option- good to hear from ya Konrad!
Take care & do not archive
Mark
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) |
Hi George,
I read all four of your recommended NTSB reports below and they all have
to do with pressurizing the crankcase instead of running a vacuum. In
the first one there was a gunked up separator causing oil starvation,
the second had a pinched breather hose, the third had a plug in the
line, and the last one simply froze shut, all of which caused OVER
pressurization instead of a vacuum!
But how about we meet in the middle and come up with a win/win solution?
Here we go: Put a 3/4"-3/4"-1/2" *T* in the Engine Breather hose right
after the fitting to top and far way before it goes into the exhaust
collector. The 1/2" stays open just like a whistle slot, the 3/4"
connect to the hose. By creating suction with the exhaust, you pull
outside air through the 1/2" hole to mix with the breather air therefore
diluting it and keeping the suction neutral, or only just very slightly
negative. Near neutral pressure at the port should take care of elevated
oil loss worries. And don't worry about clogging up a small 1/8" orifice
either, as there isn't one. And if a careless mechanic were to
block/kink the line like in two of your NTSB reports, then the engine
can still de-pressurize through the 1/2" whistle slot opening right
there next to the case-fitting, unless of course the mechanic plugged
the 1/2" hole with chewing tobacco so no bugs can get into this oily
environment over night..... I do use my imagination here as you can
see!!!
Anyway, there are always more then one way to make things work (and some
work better then others). A little extra weld job does not bother me,
and all this talk now made me even consider putting a breather line
scavenger on my Dodge/Cummins right below the turbo. It has 5.9L/360ci
just like a Lycoming, and the RPM is right there as well @ 2500...
Obviously, I am fully with the Acroguy's who have used augmented
scavenging for improved engine performance for a long time. It is not
for everyone though, so -do not archive -
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 1:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Let me be a little sensational or hype it, you are playing with fire.
Do what ever you want but you are adding weight, build time
(requires welding) and cost if you buy the (Mororso, Mr. Gasket,
Jegs, summit) crankcase evacuation systems designed for drag
racers.
What VAN recommends and shows on his plans is placing the
breather near the outside of the pipe with a angle cut INTO THE
WIND or facing forward, NOT aft. The air flow in the cowl is not the
same as inside the exhaust pipe. The key is the angle cut, but why
change it, if it ain't broke? Just follow plans that came with your
RV.
Call Van and ask them. I think they know something about building
planes.
The idea is NOT to create suction or vacuum on the end of the
breather for some perceived increase in HP from reduced oil "Wind-
age". We are talking about a Lyc at 2,500 rpm not a 10,000 rpm drag
engine.
If you do suck more air out the breather its likely you will suck
more oil out the engine. You can put "metering pills" in but you
really
are just getting back to what you had outside the pipe. The idea of a
0.125" orifice scares me. A piece of gunk could block that.
YES PUT THE Whistle stop in. A breather blockage could ruin your
whole day or life. Repeat a Blocked the Breather can Kill You.!
There is no guarantee in life and that is cheap insurance. Read
these:
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 050427X00513&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X22309&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X09800&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X18647&key=1
As far as comments about "I don't know how it can be blocked", I
say you have little imagination. There's a guy named Murphy that will
screw you up. Now why would you NOT want a whistle slot? A bug
or something could block it. You could accidentally pinch it while
working on the plane previous to the flight...........use your
imagination.
No matter how you vent the crankcase, the health of the engine has
more to do with the amount of oil going out the breather than the
angle
of the breather tube end or where it's at. What ever you do don't
cut the breather end square.
Follow the PLANS is my advice, simple, light, works, won't freeze as
some imply.
George ATP/CFI-II-ME/RV-4/-7
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're
surfing.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) |
The original poster was trying to keep the oily residue off the belly of
his plane. We were brainstorming to figure a way around that. That's wh
y our planes have those wonderful 'EXPERIMENTAL'. decals on them... And
to help you learn something , the crankcase evacuation system is used on
ALOT of motors, not just drag racers, after all it is a free vacuum sou
rce. Simple and inexpensive...
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com> wrote:
Let me be a little sensational or hype it, you are playing with fire. Do
what ever you want but you are adding weight, build time
(requires welding) and cost if you buy the (Mororso, Mr. Gasket,
Jegs, summit) crankcase evacuation systems designed for drag
racers.
What VAN recommends and shows on his plans is placing the
breather near the outside of the pipe with a angle cut INTO THE
WIND or facing forward, NOT aft. The air flow in the cowl is not the
same as inside the exhaust pipe. The key is the angle cut, but why
change it, if it ain't broke? Just follow plans that came with your RV.
Call Van and ask them. I think they know something about building
planes.
The idea is NOT to create suction or vacuum on the end of the
breather for some perceived increase in HP from reduced oil "Wind-
age". We are talking about a Lyc at 2,500 rpm not a 10,000 rpm drag
engine.
If you do suck more air out the breather its likely you will suck
more oil out the engine. You can put "metering pills" in but you really
are just getting back to what you had outside the pipe. The idea of a
0.125" orifice scares me. A piece of gunk could block that.
YES PUT THE Whistle stop in. A breather blockage could ruin your
whole day or life. Repeat a Blocked the Breather can Kill You.!
There is no guarantee in life and that is cheap insurance. Read
these:
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 050427X00513&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X22309&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X09800&key=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X18647&key=1
As far as comments about "I don't know how it can be blocked", I
say you have little imagination. There's a guy named Murphy that will
screw you up. Now why would you NOT want a whistle slot? A bug
or something could block it. You could accidentally pinch it while
working on the plane previous to the flight...........use your
imagination.
No matter how you vent the crankcase, the health of the engine has
more to do with the amount of oil going out the breather than the angle
of the breather tube end or where it's at. What ever you do don't
cut the breather end square.
Follow the PLANS is my advice, simple, light, works, won't freeze as
some imply.
George ATP/CFI-II-ME/RV-4/-7Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new
========================
========================
========================
========================
======
<html><P>The original poster was trying to keep the oily residue off the
belly of his plane. We were brainstorming to figure a way around that.
That's why our planes have those wonderful 'EXPERIMENTAL'. decals on the
m... And to help you learn something , the crankcase evacuation system i
s used on ALOT of motors, not just drag racers, after all it is a free v
acuum source. Simple and inexpensive... </P>
<P>do not archive<BR><BR><BR>Ben Haas<BR>N801BH<BR>www.haaspowerair
.com<BR><BR>-- <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com> wrote:<BR></P>
<DIV>Let me be a little sensational or hype it, you are playing with fir
e.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Do what ever you want but you are adding weight, build time <BR>(re
quires welding) and cost if you buy the (Mororso, Mr. Gasket, <BR>
Jegs, summit) crankcase evacuation systems designed for drag <BR>racers.
<BR> <BR>What VAN recommends and shows on his plans is placing the
<BR>breather near the outside of the pipe with a angle cut INTO THE <BR>
WIND or facing forward, NOT aft. The air flow in the cowl is not the <BR
>same as inside the exhaust pipe. The key is the angle cut, but why <BR>
change it, if it ain't broke? Just follow plans that came with your RV.
<BR>Call Van and ask them. I think they know something about building <B
R>planes. <BR> <BR>The idea is NOT to create suction or vacuum on t
he end of the <BR>breather for some perceived increase in HP from reduce
d oil "Wind-<BR>age". We are talking about a Lyc at 2,500 rpm not a 10,0
00 rpm drag <BR>engine. <BR> <BR>If you do suck more air out the br
eather its likely you will suck <BR>more oil out the engine. You can put
"metering pills" in but you really <BR>are just getting back to what yo
u had outside the pipe. The idea of a <BR>0.125" orifice scares me. A pi
ece of gunk could block that.<BR> <BR>YES PUT THE Whistle stop in.
A breather blockage could ruin your <BR>whole day or life. Repeat a Bloc
ked the Breather can Kill You.! <BR> <BR>There is no guarantee in l
ife and that is cheap insurance. Read <BR>these:<BR> <BR><A href=
"http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 050427X00513&key=1">
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 050427X00513&key=1</A
><BR><A href="http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X2230
9&key=1">http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X22309
&key=1</A><BR><A href="http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id=
20001211X09800&key=1">http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id=2
0001211X09800&key=1</A><BR><A href="http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/bri
ef.asp?ev_id 001212X18647&key=1">http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brie
f.asp?ev_id 001212X18647&key=1</A><BR> <BR></DIV>
<DIV>As far as comments about "I don't know how it can be blocked", I <B
R>say you have little imagination. There's a guy named Murphy that
will <BR>screw you up. Now why would you NOT want a whistle slot? A bug
<BR>or something could block it. You could accidentally pinch it while <
BR>working on the plane previous to the flight...........use your <BR>im
agination.<BR> <BR>No matter how you vent the crankcase, the health
of the engine has <BR>more to do with the amount of oil going out the b
reather than the angle <BR>of the breather tube end or where it's at. Wh
at ever you do don't <BR>cut the breather end square.<BR> <BR>Follo
w the PLANS is my advice, simple, light, works, won't freeze as <BR>some
imply.<BR> <BR>George ATP/CFI-II-ME/RV-4/-7</DIV>
<P>
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) |
have anyone thought about whats proven to work ... or ... what the hanger
gurus think works
mike
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units |
Bobby,
I check the gauge levels before filling and and the amount added to fill is
very close to what the gauge indicates was used. The float type sensors are
notoriously inaccurate, also the guages in the 172 I flew bounced around a
lot once the fuel level got below 1/2. My gauges don't bounce. May be
different for some of the other float type gauges?
Dave
On 6/4/07, Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net> wrote:
>
> David how are you checking the accuracy? I have the same set up and I
> stick my tanks before flying to check the fuel level and the level on the
> monitor and I would not call the accuracy amazing.
>
> Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
>
>
> David Burnham wrote:
>
> Carl,
>
> I have capacitance senders and Advanced Systems engine monitor, accuracy
> is amazing.
>
> Dave Burnham
> N64FN
> Huntsville, AL
>
>
> On 6/4/07, Frank Stringham <fstringham@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > Carl
> >
> > I went capacitive....but would probably use float next time around.....
> >
> > Frank @ SGU RV7A "NDY"
> >
> >
> > >From: "Carl Bell" < carlbell@gforcecable.com>
> > >To: "Carl Bell" <carlbell@gforcecable.com >
> > >Subject: RV-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
> > >Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 15:10:41 -0400
> > >
> > >Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would
> > >love
> > >to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive fuel
> > >sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo EMS
> > i.e.
> > >Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be
> > appreciated. I
> > >am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Carl W Bell
> > >
> > >New Venture Consulting
> > >
> > >Mobile: 803.640.2760
> > >
> > > <http://www.newventureconsulting.com > www.newventureconsulting.com
> > >
> > >carlbell@gforcecable.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units |
David Burnham wrote:
> Bobby,
>
> I check the gauge levels before filling and and the amount added to fill is
> very close to what the gauge indicates was used. The float type sensors are
> notoriously inaccurate, also the guages in the 172 I flew bounced around a
> lot once the fuel level got below 1/2. My gauges don't bounce. May be
> different for some of the other float type gauges?
As another data point regarding float senders, my RV-6 has been flying
nearly eight years with the standard floats feeding an Electronics
International fuel gage. The system is very accurate and there is *no*
gage bounce. The only shortcoming of the standard floats is that due to
the dihedral of the wings they indicate full until 3-4 gallons burn out
of each tank. But they are accurate from there to the bottom of the tank.
Sam Buchanan
Message 14
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| Subject: | Cowl Air Temperatures |
Out of curiosity, does anyone have an estimate (or maybe actuals) of max
expected temperatures in the aft cavity portion of the cowl just forward of
the firewall but behind the engine cooling baffles? (RV6/7 IO360 or equiv
assuming no fire, obviously)
Also, when would the worst temperatures occur, both during flight and on the
ground? My guess is T/O or max power slow climb would be the most
challenging design condition ... but I'm not sure, does soakback after
shutdown come close? Any input is appreciated.
-Andy
RV-7
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units |
In a message dated 6/7/2007 8:54:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
daverv6a@gmail.com writes:
The float type sensors are notoriously inaccurate
>>>
Mine are notoriously accurate (Vans)- when they say 5 gals, I have 5 gallons
left- when they say 0 gals, I got about 50 seconds left...
No, they don't tell you much until about 1/3 is gone, but isn't the LAST 1/3
of more interest?
Mark do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units |
Hey Mark, what do you normally think about in these last 50 seconds???
Just curious...
Remember: When the prop stops in mid air, the pilot *may* start
sweating!
I'd rather use a timer then relying on the fuel gauge.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
In a message dated 6/7/2007 8:54:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
daverv6a@gmail.com writes:
The float type sensors are notoriously inaccurate
>>>
Mine are notoriously accurate (Vans)- when they say 5 gals, I have 5
gallons left- when they say 0 gals, I got about 50 seconds left...
No, they don't tell you much until about 1/3 is gone, but isn't the
LAST 1/3 of more interest?
Mark do not archive
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