RV-List Digest Archive

Sun 08/19/07


Total Messages Posted: 11



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:46 AM - Re: LSE Direct crank vs. Hall effect (Doug Weiler)
     2. 06:42 AM - Re: GPS/XM antenna interference (Charles Reiche)
     3. 02:55 PM - Blue Plastic removal (Bob Leffler)
     4. 03:13 PM - Hi all! This is a call for help (Ford Frazier)
     5. 03:15 PM - Hi All! This is a call for help... (Ford Frazier)
     6. 03:18 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Bob Collins)
     7. 03:33 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Paul Besing)
     8. 03:42 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Darrell Reiley)
     9. 05:21 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Dale Ensing)
    10. 06:38 PM - FW: Engine baffle instructions (William Gill)
    11. 10:46 PM - Upper gear intersection fairing (Patrick Kelley)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:46:01 AM PST US
    From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw@mnwing.org>
    Subject: Re: LSE Direct crank vs. Hall effect
    ---- Original Message ----- From: H.Ivan Haecker Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 10:35 PM Subject: RV-List: LSE Direct crank vs. Hall effect After nearly 1400 hrs.and 4 mag failures (Slick), I am considering an LSE unit to replace the right mag. I realize that the direct crank sensor is less expensive and that the Hall effect sensor that mounts in the old mag position is simpler to install. Ignoring the cost difference and initial installation difference, is there any other reason to pick one over the other? I am looking for comments on reliability of one sensor vs. the other and any other pertinent information. Thanks, Ivan Haecker -4 1381 hrs. S. Cen. TX ps 3 failed coils and 1 failed condensor. And yes I used blast tubes (after the 1st failure!) --------------- I installed a dual LSI system on my RV-4 18 months ago (about 200 hours on the system thus far). I selected the direct crank sensor because of its simplicity (the Hall effect mount requires period inspections of the bearings. Installation certaionly was more involved having to remove the prop but I am 100% happy with this system. Doug Weiler RV-4, N722DW, 400 hours


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:42:09 AM PST US
    From: "Charles Reiche" <reichec@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: GPS/XM antenna interference
    Just like when you transmit on one of your com transmitters and your GPS goverage gets knocked out... you need a notch filter on something but alot of times its the ELT, pop a gps freq notch filter in there and the problem goes away and has not effect on ELT operation. RF is going down the ELT coax and exciting the transmitter circuit in the ELT and making harmonics all the way up to the GPS freqs. Not necesarily the first place you might look but its a solution.. Sure some solutions to antenna placement includ CYA but sometimes these CYA approaches result differently due to coax runs and spacing, etc. I dont want to start a flame war but there is alot of noise and heat under the cowl, thats the last place I would want to put an expensive GPS or WX antenna. Charles ----- Original Message ----- From: Fiveonepw@aol.com To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 11:33 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS/XM antenna interference In a message dated 08/17/2007 7:57:25 PM Central Daylight Time, pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net writes: There opinion will probably be couched in CYA rather than sound electronic principles. Each supplier (Garmin, GRT & Trutrak) refreshingly did no such thing and said they could offer no evidence there would be a problem- neat, huh? Thanks again to all who chimed in on this "problem". FWIW, the OSH Forum was "Airplane Wiring for Smart People" by BMAs Greg Richter. He claimed that a plane he had worked on had a serious interference problem from these type antennas(ae?) that was solved by locating them apart (18"? can't recall exactly what distance he cited). Very possibly true, but based on responses here and on other lists, I'd suspect the interference came from some influence not related to the antennas(ae?) themselves... Appreciate the discussion, folks! Mark AOL.com.


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:55:31 PM PST US
    From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: Blue Plastic removal
    I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684


    Message 4


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    Time: 03:13:22 PM PST US
    From: Ford Frazier <fordfrazier@mac.com>
    Subject: Hi all! This is a call for help
    Hola RVers! I was active on this list three years ago, then a move to Oakland CA forced me to put my RV7 project in storage. It's time to start-up again... BUT my home is without garage, OAK has a 10+ year hangar wait list, and I can't find a place to build. Can anyone in the SF East Bay help me out with a suggestion? I'm open to creative solutions and y'all know better than anyone the workspace and infrastructure requirements for an RV7 slow-build kit. Hangar sublet, shared hangar, light industrial workshop, your great aunts garage, whatever. No need to clutter up the list with replies, but a personal email would be truly appreciated. Thanks everyone. Regards - Ford


    Message 5


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    Time: 03:15:31 PM PST US
    From: Ford Frazier <fordfrazier@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Hi All! This is a call for help...
    Hola RVers! I was active on this list three years ago, then a move to Oakland CA forced me to put my RV7 project in storage. It's time to start-up again... BUT my home is without garage, OAK has a 10+ year hangar wait list, and I can't find a place to build. Can anyone in the SF East Bay help me out with a suggestion? I'm open to creative solutions and y'all know better than anyone the workspace and infrastructure requirements for an RV7 slow-build kit. Hangar sublet, shared hangar, light industrial workshop, your great aunts garage, whatever. No need to clutter up the list with replies, but a personal email would be truly appreciated. Thanks everyone. Regards - Ford


    Message 6


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    Time: 03:18:45 PM PST US
    From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
    Subject: Blue Plastic removal
    I had the corrosion on several edges. I've still left plastic on, but pulled it back from edges a bit and deburred the edges and used the Alodine pen on it. but I haven't found corrosion UNDER the blue plastic away from edges, however, In my case, some of it has been on for 6 years. However, when I noticed the corrosion beneath the plastic near edges, it was within months of when it was shipped to me. _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:53 PM Subject: RV-List: Blue Plastic removal I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684


    Message 7


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    Time: 03:33:29 PM PST US
    From: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Blue Plastic removal
    Unless you are going to polish the plane, don't worry about scratches..unless they are gouges, you'll never see them after you paint. Paul Besing Bob Leffler <rvmail@thelefflers.com> wrote: I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for dimpling and riveting. Ive had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been second hand, Im looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684 --------------------------------- Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.


    Message 8


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    Time: 03:42:53 PM PST US
    From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Blue Plastic removal
    Bob, On my 7 there was no corrosion after removing the plastic, but I'm in Central Texas. Darrell --- Bob Leffler <rvmail@thelefflers.com> wrote: > I started out removing strips of the blue protective > plastic to allow for > dimpling and riveting. I've had several people > comment that they had some > corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue > plastic. The most > recent was from the technical counselor that was > just out for my first > counselor visit. > > > > So I guess the debate would be which symptom would > be worse after 2-3 year > build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since > all of these reports > have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from > anyone that had any > corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the > end of the build. > > > > Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone > else find corrosion > under the blue plastic when removed? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bob > > #40684 > > Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. http://farechase.yahoo.com/


    Message 9


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    Time: 05:21:03 PM PST US
    From: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Blue Plastic removal
    I had some corrosion under edges of protective plastic when removing 5 years after receiving kit from Van's. Don't know what is worse scratches or corrosion. But I think I would go with the potential of scratches. Only my opinion. Dale Ensing ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Leffler To: rv10-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:53 PM Subject: RV-List: Blue Plastic removal I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor visit. So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build. Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under the blue plastic when removed? Thanks, Bob #40684


    Message 10


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    Time: 06:38:11 PM PST US
    From: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
    Subject: FW: Engine baffle instructions
    Listers, I have Van's standard baffle kit for the IO-360 / 200hp engine. I am preparing to install the baffle rubber fabric to the baffle walls, but have misplaced the instruction sheets. How far should the baffle fabric extend above the aluminum baffle walls? Also, if someone can scan a copy of the instruction sheet(s) and send to me off-list, I'd really appreciate it (I do have the drawing). Thanks. Bill Gill RV-7 FWF & finishing Lee's Summit, MO


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:46:27 PM PST US
    From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
    Subject: Upper gear intersection fairing
    I'm ahead of myself but I've got the fairings on and am looking at the intersection fairings. The RVator had a great article on attaching the lower, leg to pant fairing and I'll be using that method there. However, I don't see anything on the leg to fuselage fairing in the plans and I was wondering how people dealt with this. With all the structure (especially the wing spar) at the leg/fuselage/wing joint, I'm not sure I'll be able to easily get nutplates in place to attach it to the fuselage and wing bottom. Yet, I'm not sure if I should make it part of the leg fairing. Ideas would be appreciated here. Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - waiting on panel; installing antennae.




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