Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:46 AM - Re: LSE Direct crank vs. Hall effect (Doug Weiler)
2. 06:42 AM - Re: GPS/XM antenna interference (Charles Reiche)
3. 02:55 PM - Blue Plastic removal (Bob Leffler)
4. 03:13 PM - Hi all! This is a call for help (Ford Frazier)
5. 03:15 PM - Hi All! This is a call for help... (Ford Frazier)
6. 03:18 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Bob Collins)
7. 03:33 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Paul Besing)
8. 03:42 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Darrell Reiley)
9. 05:21 PM - Re: Blue Plastic removal (Dale Ensing)
10. 06:38 PM - FW: Engine baffle instructions (William Gill)
11. 10:46 PM - Upper gear intersection fairing (Patrick Kelley)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: LSE Direct crank vs. Hall effect |
---- Original Message -----
From: H.Ivan Haecker
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 10:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: LSE Direct crank vs. Hall effect
After nearly 1400 hrs.and 4 mag failures (Slick), I am considering an LSE
unit to replace the right mag. I realize that the direct crank sensor is
less expensive and that the Hall effect sensor that mounts in the old mag
position is simpler to install. Ignoring the cost difference and initial
installation difference, is there any other reason to pick one over the
other? I am looking for comments on reliability of one sensor vs. the other
and any other pertinent information.
Thanks,
Ivan Haecker -4 1381 hrs. S. Cen. TX
ps 3 failed coils and 1 failed condensor. And yes I used blast tubes
(after the 1st failure!)
---------------
I installed a dual LSI system on my RV-4 18 months ago (about 200 hours on
the system thus far). I selected the direct crank sensor because of its
simplicity (the Hall effect mount requires period inspections of the
bearings. Installation certaionly was more involved having to remove the
prop but I am 100% happy with this system.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW, 400 hours
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: GPS/XM antenna interference |
Just like when you transmit on one of your com transmitters and your GPS
goverage gets knocked out... you need a notch filter on something but
alot of times its the ELT, pop a gps freq notch filter in there and the
problem goes away and has not effect on ELT operation. RF is going down
the ELT coax and exciting the transmitter circuit in the ELT and making
harmonics all the way up to the GPS freqs. Not necesarily the first
place you might look but its a solution.. Sure some solutions to
antenna placement includ CYA but sometimes these CYA approaches result
differently due to coax runs and spacing, etc.
I dont want to start a flame war but there is alot of noise and heat
under the cowl, thats the last place I would want to put an expensive
GPS or WX antenna.
Charles
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS/XM antenna interference
In a message dated 08/17/2007 7:57:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net writes:
There opinion will probably be couched in CYA rather than sound
electronic principles.
Each supplier (Garmin, GRT & Trutrak) refreshingly did no such thing
and said they could offer no evidence there would be a problem- neat,
huh?
Thanks again to all who chimed in on this "problem". FWIW, the OSH
Forum was "Airplane Wiring for Smart People" by BMAs Greg Richter. He
claimed that a plane he had worked on had a serious interference problem
from these type antennas(ae?) that was solved by locating them apart
(18"? can't recall exactly what distance he cited). Very possibly true,
but based on responses here and on other lists, I'd suspect the
interference came from some influence not related to the antennas(ae?)
themselves...
Appreciate the discussion, folks!
Mark
AOL.com.
Message 3
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Subject: | Blue Plastic removal |
I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for
dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some
corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most
recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first
counselor visit.
So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year
build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports
have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any
corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build.
Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion
under the blue plastic when removed?
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
Message 4
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Subject: | Hi all! This is a call for help |
Hola RVers!
I was active on this list three years ago, then a move to Oakland CA
forced me to put my RV7 project in storage.
It's time to start-up again... BUT my home is without garage, OAK has
a 10+ year hangar wait list, and I can't find a place to build. Can
anyone in the SF East Bay help me out with a suggestion? I'm open to
creative solutions and y'all know better than anyone the workspace
and infrastructure requirements for an RV7 slow-build kit. Hangar
sublet, shared hangar, light industrial workshop, your great aunts
garage, whatever.
No need to clutter up the list with replies, but a personal email
would be truly appreciated. Thanks everyone.
Regards - Ford
Message 5
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Subject: | Hi All! This is a call for help... |
Hola RVers!
I was active on this list three years ago, then a move to Oakland CA
forced me to put my RV7 project in storage.
It's time to start-up again... BUT my home is without garage, OAK has
a 10+ year hangar wait list, and I can't find a place to build. Can
anyone in the SF East Bay help me out with a suggestion? I'm open to
creative solutions and y'all know better than anyone the workspace
and infrastructure requirements for an RV7 slow-build kit. Hangar
sublet, shared hangar, light industrial workshop, your great aunts
garage, whatever.
No need to clutter up the list with replies, but a personal email
would be truly appreciated. Thanks everyone.
Regards - Ford
Message 6
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Subject: | Blue Plastic removal |
I had the corrosion on several edges. I've still left plastic on, but pulled
it back from edges a bit and deburred the edges and used the Alodine pen on
it. but I haven't found corrosion UNDER the blue plastic away from edges,
however, In my case, some of it has been on for 6 years. However, when I
noticed the corrosion beneath the plastic near edges, it was within months
of when it was shipped to me.
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Blue Plastic removal
I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow for
dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they had some
corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most
recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first
counselor visit.
So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year
build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports
have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that had any
corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build.
Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion
under the blue plastic when removed?
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Blue Plastic removal |
Unless you are going to polish the plane, don't worry about scratches..unless they
are gouges, you'll never see them after you paint.
Paul Besing
Bob Leffler <rvmail@thelefflers.com> wrote:
I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to
allow for dimpling and riveting. Ive had several people comment that they had
some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic. The most
recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for my first counselor
visit.
So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3 year build
period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these reports have been
second hand, Im looking for feedback from anyone that had any corrosion after
the removed the blue plastic at the end of the build.
Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find corrosion under
the blue plastic when removed?
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
---------------------------------
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Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Blue Plastic removal |
Bob,
On my 7 there was no corrosion after removing the
plastic, but I'm in Central Texas.
Darrell
--- Bob Leffler <rvmail@thelefflers.com> wrote:
> I started out removing strips of the blue protective
> plastic to allow for
> dimpling and riveting. I've had several people
> comment that they had some
> corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue
> plastic. The most
> recent was from the technical counselor that was
> just out for my first
> counselor visit.
>
>
>
> So I guess the debate would be which symptom would
> be worse after 2-3 year
> build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since
> all of these reports
> have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from
> anyone that had any
> corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the
> end of the build.
>
>
>
> Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone
> else find corrosion
> under the blue plastic when removed?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> #40684
>
>
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Blue Plastic removal |
I had some corrosion under edges of protective plastic when removing 5
years after receiving kit from Van's. Don't know what is worse scratches
or corrosion. But I think I would go with the potential of scratches.
Only my opinion.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler
To: rv10-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Blue Plastic removal
I started out removing strips of the blue protective plastic to allow
for dimpling and riveting. I've had several people comment that they
had some corrosion issues focused under the edges of the blue plastic.
The most recent was from the technical counselor that was just out for
my first counselor visit.
So I guess the debate would be which symptom would be worse after 2-3
year build period, scratches or minor corrosion. Since all of these
reports have been second hand, I'm looking for feedback from anyone that
had any corrosion after the removed the blue plastic at the end of the
build.
Any strong opinions with either option? Did anyone else find
corrosion under the blue plastic when removed?
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
Message 10
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Subject: | FW: Engine baffle instructions |
Listers,
I have Van's standard baffle kit for the IO-360 / 200hp engine. I am
preparing to install the baffle rubber fabric to the baffle walls, but
have misplaced the instruction sheets. How far should the baffle fabric
extend above the aluminum baffle walls? Also, if someone can scan a copy
of the instruction sheet(s) and send to me off-list, I'd really
appreciate it (I do have the drawing). Thanks.
Bill Gill
RV-7 FWF & finishing
Lee's Summit, MO
Message 11
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Subject: | Upper gear intersection fairing |
I'm ahead of myself but I've got the fairings on and am looking at the
intersection fairings. The RVator had a great article on attaching the
lower, leg to pant fairing and I'll be using that method there. However, I
don't see anything on the leg to fuselage fairing in the plans and I was
wondering how people dealt with this. With all the structure (especially
the wing spar) at the leg/fuselage/wing joint, I'm not sure I'll be able to
easily get nutplates in place to attach it to the fuselage and wing bottom.
Yet, I'm not sure if I should make it part of the leg fairing. Ideas would
be appreciated here.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - waiting on panel; installing antennae.
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