Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:53 AM - Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (Bill Settle)
2. 04:50 AM - Re: Support discontinued: VM1000, now VM1000C also (Richard McBride)
3. 05:25 AM - FS: Perfect Garmin GPSMAP 296 (Snow, Daniel A.)
4. 06:06 AM - Gear legs rusting in mounts (James H Nelson)
5. 06:25 AM - Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (Bob Collins)
6. 09:27 AM - Tail wheel question (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
7. 02:30 PM - Re: Tail wheel question (Larry Bowen)
8. 02:49 PM - Re: Orndorff classes / electronic solenoids (Ed Anderson)
9. 07:06 PM - Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (SCOTT SPENCER)
10. 08:05 PM - Control cable proximity to exhaust pipes (Andrew Olech)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts |
I've used this in the past with good results...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/corrosionx.php
>
> From: "Doug Medema" <doug.medema@comcast.net>
> Date: 2007/08/20 Mon PM 11:59:34 EST
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Gear legs rusting in mounts
>
> I recently removed my gear legs and found them to be
> corroded at
> the points they go into the mounts, especially the lower
> collar.
> I have since stripped, sanded, acid etched, conversion
> coated,
> primed, and painted the legs and am ready to reinstall them.
> Since
> you can't paint over the places with close tolerances, they
> will just
> rust again unless I do something to protect them. I was
> thinking
> of just putting a good layer of grease on them, but am
> wondering
> if anybody else has a better idea.
>
> Again, this is just on the two areas that make contact with
> the
> gear mounts. All the rest of it is protected.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM down for painting after 170 hours.
>
>
> Date: 8/20/2007 1:08 PM
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Support discontinued: VM1000, now VM1000C also |
That's what I've been afraid of. I hope the unit keeps working. My fuel
flow sometimes comes and goes but tightening the sensor screws seems to
help. My plane's only a couple of years old but the panel was designed and
built before all the great new glass instrumentation. If the 1000 goes
belly up it may be incentive for an entire panel rebuild. Thanks for the
feedback.
Rick McBride
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Support discontinued: VM1000, now VM1000C also
>Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 22:41:10 -0400
>
>
>Rick,
>
>My issues started right about the same time VMS was silently being acquired
>by JPI.
>I was considering upgrading to a VM1000C as I wanted color and a couple of
>new features...never got a direct response from them. Then the
>backlighting on my VM1000 started going fritzy (work OK, then quit, etc).
>They announced they were being bought - still no response. Repeated e-mail
>requests and phone calls provided no response. Then they announced no more
>support for the VM1000 - with no upgrade for me...I had found out that the
>new system had a different footprint that would require a complete panel
>rework. Now with them discontinuing support for their VM1000C in favor of
>the VMS1000C with grounded JPI sensors - kinda brings back the memories of
>how JPI really is.....I haven't had my first flight yet and they've gone
>back on the original warranty that I got when I bought it.
>
>Vision Microsystems was a pretty good company with pretty good stuff - I've
>found something better, they've found something worse. I didn't really get
>any info from them directly, it was the lack of response that turned me off
>- even after the transition to JPI had completed.
>
>Now I have color - sunlight readable, data capture and storage, more
>features, and it fits in the remaining space in my panel.
>
>Good luck with your unit - I have plenty of spare parts....
>
>Ralph
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8@msn.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 4:22 PM
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Support discontinued: VM1000, now VM1000C also
>
>
>>
>>Ralph,
>>
>>I have a VM1000 and although very happy with the product, I'm also
>>concerned about future support. I spoke to their representative at
>>Oshkosh and was told that they won't be doing any more upgrades to the
>>VM1000 but will continue to provide support. I'm not sure if this is
>>accurate especially since they are transistioning to JPI sensors. I
>>curious what information you received.
>>
>>Rick McBride
>>RV-8
>>
>>
>>>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>>>To: rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: RV-List: Support discontinued: VM1000, now VM1000C also
>>>Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 13:43:08 -0400 (EDT)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I had heard that they were discontinuing support on the original VM1000
>>>in favor of the VM1000C - now they're gonna ditch that one too in favor
>>>of the VMS1000C - with JPI grounded sensors. The VM1000C has a different
>>>footprint - so I couldn't swap it out - and since they've been bought by
>>>JPI (bad memories last long), I'm not interested in them anymore.
>>>
>>>Since I needed to rearrange my panel to stay with a supported product, I
>>>bought an AFS3400EM - which fit in the space that I had. So far, I'm
>>>very happy with it!
>>>
>>>This means that I have a bunch of VM1000 parts that were installed but
>>>never flown:
>>>
>>>Oil pressure sender (with Hirschmann connector)
>>>Oil temp sender
>>>Injection fuel pressure sender (with Hirschmann connector)
>>>Fuel Flow sensor
>>>Tach sensor for Slick Mag
>>>EGT thermocouples
>>>CHT thermocouples
>>>Amp sensor
>>>Manifold pressure sensor (PC Board portion and filter fitting)
>>>Display
>>>Brain box
>>>
>>>I would prefer that these parts go to folks that are trying to keep a
>>>vintage VM1000 alive instead of pushing the lot to someone - and make
>>>them deal with JPI.
>>>
>>>Contact me direct.
>>>Ralph
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | FS: Perfect Garmin GPSMAP 296 |
$1000 plus shipping. Email me direct at daniel.snow@wancdf.com for
details.
Thanks
Message 4
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| Subject: | Gear legs rusting in mounts |
Doug,
Here in the south with the salt air I would recommend using
"anti-seize" compound like you use on your spark plugs. If the steel is
clean, the anti-seize will protect it from rust. Be very careful as the
stuff will "travel" if you get it on you and don't clean it off. Its
hard to clean off once its on something. You can use either the "silver"
colored or the "copper" colored anti-seize. The copper stuff is higher
temp rated.
Jim
Message 5
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| Subject: | Gear legs rusting in mounts |
My legs have been sitting down in -- what used to be -- the family room
(becoming a family room again now that I'm moving stuff to the hangar). On
Saturday I picked them up off the rug and had two real nice rust stains on
the carpet where the bottom of the legs (un powdercoated) had been sitting
for a year. Can't get the rust off the carpet, but I sanded the legs and
then just rubbed 3-in-1 all over them like I should've done before.
Anyway, couldn't you just oil down the parts?
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vanremog@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear legs rusting in mounts
In a message dated 8/20/2007 10:02:49 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
doug.medema@comcast.net writes:
I recently removed my gear legs and found them to be corroded at
the points they go into the mounts, especially the lower collar.
I have since stripped, sanded, acid etched, conversion coated,
primed, and painted the legs and am ready to reinstall them. Since
you can't paint over the places with close tolerances, they will just
rust again unless I do something to protect them. I was thinking
of just putting a good layer of grease on them, but am wondering
if anybody else has a better idea.
Again, this is just on the two areas that make contact with the
gear mounts. All the rest of it is protected.
==================================
I used one of the corrosion resisting sprays applied just as I installed
them in late '97. I've forgotten which LPS product I used and I haven't
removed the mains since installed, but I did retrofit my nose gear a few
years back and the old one came out easy and looked fine for its age.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 864hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
_____
AOL.com.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Tail wheel question |
I just purchased the 6" double fork tail wheel from Aviation Products, Inc.
to give me increased clearance over Van's tail wheel. It appears to have a
vertical pilot hole which I must use to drill a new vertical hole through the
tailspring onto which it mounts.
1. Are there any tricks/suggestions for drilling this hole?
2. Can this be easily and accurately done with the tailspring still
installed on the airplane?
3. Is the one vertical hole adequate or should I try to match up the two
horizontal holes which Vans has in their tailspring and drill them too?
I understand many of you have installed this upgrade tail wheel and I would
appreciate hearing of your experience.
Further, the new tail wheel weighs 5 pounds (bathroom scale). I haven't
removed my Van's tail wheel yet, but suspect the new one is heavier and will
change my CG. Any thoughts?
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 tip-up with all electric panel
2006 SnF Reserve Grand Champion - Kit
2007 SnF Outstanding Aircraft Award - Homebuilt
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tail wheel question |
I match drilled the horizontal holes instead.
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2006/04/tailwheel_upgra.html
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On 8/21/07, PeterHunt1@aol.com <PeterHunt1@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I just purchased the 6" double fork tail wheel from Aviation Products,
> Inc. to give me increased clearance over Van's tail wheel. It appears to
> have a vertical pilot hole which I must use to drill a new vertical hole
> through the tailspring onto which it mounts.
>
> 1. Are there any tricks/suggestions for drilling this hole?
>
> 2. Can this be easily and accurately done with the tailspring still
> installed on the airplane?
>
> 3. Is the one vertical hole adequate or should I try to match up the two
> horizontal holes which Vans has in their tailspring and drill them too?
>
> I understand many of you have installed this upgrade tail wheel and I
> would appreciate hearing of your experience.
>
> Further, the new tail wheel weighs 5 pounds (bathroom scale). I haven't
> removed my Van's tail wheel yet, but suspect the new one is heavier and will
> change my CG. Any thoughts?
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> RV-6 tip-up with all electric panel
> 2006 SnF Reserve Grand Champion - Kit
> 2007 SnF Outstanding Aircraft Award - Homebuilt
>
>
> ------------------------------
> .
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Orndorff classes / electronic solenoids |
Again, Becki, welcome to North Carolina. I'm going to have to fly up
and see you and George again - been a long time since I first met you
both up at the Fredricksburg, Maryland RV flyin days.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Becki
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 10:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: Orndorff classes / electronic solenoids
Good morning all! Hope you are enjoying this bright shiny day! We
wanted to let everyone know that we are settled in our new home and back
in business. Thanks to all for their patience while we made this move.
We have scheduled sheet metal working classes this fall for
October 13-14, November 10-11, December 8-9.
We also have a limited number of electronic solenoids for engine
fuel primer systems. They are $15 while supplies last.
Please email or give us a call if we can help you with these or any
other items or services that we offer. Thanks!
Becki Orndorff
GeoBeck, Inc.
704-707-4845
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts |
Doug,
Get yourself some Par-al-Ketone... it usually comes in a can with a bear on it,
and you can get it from Spruce or any of the usual suspects (I prefer Wicks).
It is an anti-corrosion agent commonly used in control cables. It comes out
of the can as a slippery brown liquid with a viscosity similar to a very thick
oil and 'dries' to a fairly soft waxy pariffinic film that won't come off on
your hands but will deliver superb protection. It is *the* answer to your needs.
It can be removed or thinned with Mineral Spirits and easily comes loose when
needed to. It is safe on virtually all surfaces and isn't any more toxic than
oil. Super handy stuff. Been using it for years. Put my wing bolts, gear legs
and other items in 'wet' with it. They will never corrode. Ever. I'm convinced.
There are other agents with similar properties, but this is easily found
and all you need. It's cheap and one can will last you forever. You can even
use it for conditioner after shampooing for silky
smooth hair... okay... maybe not.
Scott
N4ZW
A&P 17 years for what it's worth.
>>>>In a message dated 8/20/2007 10:02:49 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
doug.medema@comcast.net writes:
I recently removed my gear legs and found them to be corroded at
the points they go into the mounts, especially the lower collar.
I have since stripped, sanded, acid etched, conversion coated,
primed, and painted the legs and am ready to reinstall them.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Control cable proximity to exhaust pipes |
Does anyone have a rule of thumb for min distance between the following:
1. Control cable unprotected to bare exhaust pipe
2. Control cable firesleeved to bare exhaust
3. Control cable firesleeved to aluminum heat shield stand-off
I guess I'd like to know if (3) could actually come in contact with the heat
shield and if I'd still be ok
Thanks!
Andy
RV-7 FWF
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