Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:12 AM - Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (glen matejcek)
2. 07:03 AM - tailwheel problem...solved (Frazier, Vincent A)
3. 08:44 AM - Re: Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (Vanremog@aol.com)
4. 10:13 AM - Re: Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (J. R. Dial)
5. 10:21 AM - Re: Control cable proximity to exhaust pipes (Puckett, Gregory [DENTK])
6. 10:23 AM - Small amount needed (robert stone)
7. 12:28 PM - Re: tailwheel problem...solved (Greg Williams)
8. 01:20 PM - Re: Support discontinued: VM1000, now VM1000C also (Chuck Weyant)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: Gear legs rusting in mounts |
Hi crew-
>... I would recommend using
>"anti-seize" compound like you use on your spark plugs. ...
Please be mindful of the fact that graphite, the useful ingredient in the
grey spark plug anti-seize, is corrosive to aluminum.
FWIW-
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 2
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| Subject: | tailwheel problem...solved |
*******************SNIP Subject: RV-List: Tail wheel question
I just purchased the 6" double fork tail wheel from Aviation Products,
Inc.
to give me increased clearance over Van's tail wheel. It appears to
have a vertical pilot hole which I must use to drill a new vertical hole
through the
tailspring onto which it mounts.
1. Are there any tricks/suggestions for drilling this hole?
2. Can this be easily and accurately done with the tailspring still
installed on the airplane?
3. Is the one vertical hole adequate or should I try to match up the
two horizontal holes which Vans has in their tailspring and drill them
too?
I understand many of you have installed this upgrade tail wheel and I
would appreciate hearing of your experience.
Further, the new tail wheel weighs 5 pounds (bathroom scale). I
haven't removed my Van's tail wheel yet, but suspect the new one is
heavier and will change my CG. Any thoughts?
Pete SNIP************************
Peter,
Before you drill any new holes for a new tailwheel, please take a look
at mine. It will retrofit into a Van's socket in 5 minutes with no
drilling whatsoever. A direct replacement. It weighs virtually the
same as the Van's unit, within 1/2 ounce by my scale.
My tailwheels have better clearance than the Van's, better handling, and
a smaller frontal area than other units. You can even install a
wheelpant on mine (see the website) and it will still full swivel as
designed.
My product was originally designed to meet the needs of the F1 and HRII
Rockets. It works equally well on the RV brethren. Over 90 of mine are
out there now and I have them IN STOCK for quick delivery.
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Gear legs rusting in mounts |
In a message dated 8/22/2007 6:14:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
>... I would recommend using
>"anti-seize" compound like you use on your spark plugs. ...
Please be mindful of the fact that graphite, the useful ingredient in the
grey spark plug anti-seize, is corrosive to aluminum.
=================================================
For different types of anti-seize compounds and their uses see
_http://www.lub-o-seal.com_ (http://www.lub-o-seal.com)
They can recommend the right material for the application.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 864hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: Gear legs rusting in mounts |
I know the gear legs and mounts are not aluminum but the cylinder heads
you are screwing the spark plugs in are aluminum?
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Vanremog@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Gear legs rusting in mounts
In a message dated 8/22/2007 6:14:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
>... I would recommend using
>"anti-seize" compound like you use on your spark plugs. ...
Please be mindful of the fact that graphite, the useful ingredient in
the
grey spark plug anti-seize, is corrosive to aluminum.
========================
For different types of anti-seize compounds and their uses see
http://www.lub-o-seal.com
They can recommend the right material for the application.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 864hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
_____
AOL.com.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Control cable proximity to exhaust pipes |
Hi Andy,
My throttle cable came within ~1/4" of the exhaust pipe. I added the
standard heat shield and as shipped, the heat shield just touched the
cable. I squashed the mounting ear of the heat shield to make its
profile lower and there was then a slight gap between the shield and the
un-fire sleeved cable. I then added fire sleeve which just touched the
shield.
After about 125 hrs, absolutely no problem. There is no visual
indication on the fire sleeve that it is getting too hot. I've not taken
the fire sleeve off to see what the green cable sheath looks like but,
there is no throttle binding at all.
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
RV-8 N881GP
Does anyone have a rule of thumb for min distance between the following:
1. Control cable unprotected to bare exhaust pipe
2. Control cable firesleeved to bare exhaust
3. Control cable firesleeved to aluminum heat shield stand-off
I guess I'd like to know if (3) could actually come in contact with the
heat
shield and if I'd still be ok
Thanks!
Andy
RV-7 FWF
Message 6
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| Subject: | Small amount needed |
Members,
I know RV aircraft are all metal but some parts must be fiberglass
so I am asking if any of you have some medium weight cloth, polyester
resin, and hardner left over just sitting around I could use about one
square foot and an ounce or two of resin and hardner. I will pay what
ever you think fair for materials and shipping.
Bob Stone
4214 Lakecliff Drive
Harker Heights, Tx
76548-8611
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: tailwheel problem...solved |
Vince, Any difference in the lubrication schedule for yours? Seems I'm
always taking my Van's tailwheel apart for cleaning. After it gets dirt &
dust on it after a while, it doesn't hold in the straight ahead position.
Is there a zirk fitting for lubing it? Where would I get a wheel pant for
it? How many hours should I get out of a stock tailwheel tire with "novice
style landing/bounces"? Greg
On 8/22/07, Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier@usi.edu> wrote:
>
>
>
> *******************SNIP Subject: RV-List: Tail wheel question
>
> I just purchased the 6" double fork tail wheel from Aviation Products,
> Inc.
> to give me increased clearance over Van's tail wheel. It appears to
> have a vertical pilot hole which I must use to drill a new vertical hole
> through the
>
> tailspring onto which it mounts.
>
> 1. Are there any tricks/suggestions for drilling this hole?
>
> 2. Can this be easily and accurately done with the tailspring still
> installed on the airplane?
>
> 3. Is the one vertical hole adequate or should I try to match up the
> two horizontal holes which Vans has in their tailspring and drill them
> too?
>
> I understand many of you have installed this upgrade tail wheel and I
> would appreciate hearing of your experience.
>
> Further, the new tail wheel weighs 5 pounds (bathroom scale). I
> haven't removed my Van's tail wheel yet, but suspect the new one is
> heavier and will change my CG. Any thoughts?
>
> Pete SNIP************************
>
> Peter,
>
> Before you drill any new holes for a new tailwheel, please take a look
> at mine. It will retrofit into a Van's socket in 5 minutes with no
> drilling whatsoever. A direct replacement. It weighs virtually the
> same as the Van's unit, within 1/2 ounce by my scale.
>
> My tailwheels have better clearance than the Van's, better handling, and
> a smaller frontal area than other units. You can even install a
> wheelpant on mine (see the website) and it will still full swivel as
> designed.
>
> My product was originally designed to meet the needs of the F1 and HRII
> Rockets. It works equally well on the RV brethren. Over 90 of mine are
> out there now and I have them IN STOCK for quick delivery.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vince Frazier
> Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
> 3965 Caborn Road
> Mount Vernon, IN 47620
> 812-464-1839
> http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Support discontinued: VM1000, now VM1000C also |
What you asking for the lot?
Chuck RV10 and building...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 10:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Support discontinued: VM1000, now VM1000C also
>
>
> I had heard that they were discontinuing support on the original VM1000 in
> favor of the VM1000C - now they're gonna ditch that one too in favor of
> the VMS1000C - with JPI grounded sensors. The VM1000C has a different
> footprint - so I couldn't swap it out - and since they've been bought by
> JPI (bad memories last long), I'm not interested in them anymore.
>
> Since I needed to rearrange my panel to stay with a supported product, I
> bought an AFS3400EM - which fit in the space that I had. So far, I'm very
> happy with it!
>
> This means that I have a bunch of VM1000 parts that were installed but
> never flown:
>
> Oil pressure sender (with Hirschmann connector)
> Oil temp sender
> Injection fuel pressure sender (with Hirschmann connector)
> Fuel Flow sensor
> Tach sensor for Slick Mag
> EGT thermocouples
> CHT thermocouples
> Amp sensor
> Manifold pressure sensor (PC Board portion and filter fitting)
> Display
> Brain box
>
> I would prefer that these parts go to folks that are trying to keep a
> vintage VM1000 alive instead of pushing the lot to someone - and make them
> deal with JPI.
>
> Contact me direct.
> Ralph
>
>
> --
> 9:05 AM
>
>
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