Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:32 AM - Re: Rv-List: Senders (Trevor)
2. 06:08 AM - Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (glen matejcek)
3. 06:34 AM - Re: Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (linn Walters)
4. 09:05 AM - Screaming Eagle tailwheel (Frazier, Vincent A)
5. 12:43 PM - drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust (jbker@juno.com)
6. 01:25 PM - Re: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust (Chuck Weyant)
7. 07:33 PM - Re: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust (John W. Cox)
8. 07:51 PM - Re: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust (John W. Cox)
9. 08:59 PM - Re: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust (Ron Lee)
10. 09:56 PM - Looking for 6A Fuselage Jig (Reginald C. Smith, Sr.)
11. 09:58 PM - Re: Re: Gear legs rusting in mounts (Dale Walter)
12. 11:32 PM - Re: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rv-List: Senders |
Can anyone advise what senders to use for Oil Pressure, Oil Temp and
Fuel Pressure and reasonable supply source. Also, are senders matched
to specific instruments or are they readily interchangeable. I have an
EMS but senders are not included and I will have to source them myself.
Also any contacts or suggestions for potentiometers ( e.g. for measuring
flap position). Have looked in Spruce catalogue but prices seem to vary
considerably between manufacturers!
Many thanks
Trevor RV-7
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Gear legs rusting in mounts |
HI JR-
>I know the gear legs and mounts are not aluminum but the cylinder heads
>you are screwing the spark plugs in are aluminum?
That was the first thing that occurred to me when the whole graphite
causing Al corrosion was pointed out to me. The fine print, though, is
that the spark plugs actually screw into steel inserts, like heli-coils.
Hence the admonitions to use the anti-seize sparingly. It prevents there
being excess compound which could migrate to contact with the aluminum head.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Gear legs rusting in mounts |
glen matejcek wrote:
>
>HI JR-
>
>
>
>>I know the gear legs and mounts are not aluminum but the cylinder heads
>>you are screwing the spark plugs in are aluminum?
>>
>>
>
>That was the first thing that occurred to me when the whole graphite
>causing Al corrosion was pointed out to me.
>
The only thing I've seen on the graqphite/aluminum subject was a picture
of thin aluminum sheet that had been corroded through and a disc fell
out. Don't know any more about that particular situation though.
> The fine print, though, is
>that the spark plugs actually screw into steel inserts, like heli-coils.
>
Only if they've been installed. No steel inserts AFAIK in new cylinder
heads.
> Hence the admonitions to use the anti-seize sparingly. It prevents there
>being excess compound which could migrate to contact with the aluminum head.
>
The problem with excess antisieze is that a glob inside the cylinder
will become red-hot without burning off and cause run-on during shutdown.
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>
>glen matejcek
>aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Screaming Eagle tailwheel |
SNIP From: "Greg Williams" <>
Subject: Re: RV-List: tailwheel problem...solved
Vince, Any difference in the lubrication schedule for yours? Seems I'm
always taking my Van's tailwheel apart for cleaning. After it gets dirt
&
dust on it after a while, it doesn't hold in the straight ahead
position.
Is there a zirk fitting for lubing it? Where would I get a wheel pant
for
it? How many hours should I get out of a stock tailwheel tire with
"novice
style landing/bounces"? Greg SNIP
Greg,
If you use my retrofit fork, the lubrication schedule doesn't change.
You still need to clean and lube it periodically. Also check the pin
and control arm for burrs or wear.
Use your scotchbrite wheel to clean up the pin as needed. I suggest
that the end of the locking pin be slightly blunt with rounded corners
as opposed to perfectly round. This allows more of the flat sides of the
pin to remain in contact with the control arm notch. You can (and
should) observe (and understand) the operation of this while you've got
the thing apart for cleaning. The pin should engage the control arm as
deeply as possible. There is too much to this topic to write here, but
fortunately it's common sense stuff if you simply observe how the
locking pin works.
If you buy a complete tailwheel unit from me you will notice that I
don't use the bronze bushings that Van's uses. And there are no useless
grease zerks installed. My sockets use an engineered plastic bushing
that requires no lubrication. More $$$ than bronze, but worth it.
HOWEVER, the steel parts must still be greased or oiled to prevent rust!
AND the locking pin must still be lubed! So, it doesn't change the need
to service the tailwheel, but it does make manufacturing easier mostly
because it doesn't require and grease zerks. BTW, IMHO, the grease
zerks aren't for greasing, they are there to lock the bronze in position
and nothing else!
Based on my Rocket, using my tailwheel products, I have cleaned and
lubed my tailwheel exactly once in the last 150+ hours (2 years). I
found no wear, and did nothing except lube it and reinstall. I'm doing a
bit of a torture test on my stuff to see what happens with minimal
maintenance. All I really was doing when I lubed it was to take it apart
for inspection!
The tailwheel tire was slightly worn, but it should last for several
hundred more hours. FWIW, I fly off turf, but almost always go
somewhere with pavement. So, 1/2 the landings are on either surface.
I would like to make a tailwheel pant and sell it... but there simply
aren't enough hours in the day! Van's tailwheel pant will fit. refer
to the website below for a photo of a tailwheelpant installation.
BTW, I have units in stock and ready to ship.
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm
Message 5
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| Subject: | drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust |
Am currently replacing my 13B rotary in the 9A with O-320 and was about
to drill the 4 EGT probes and have not put my hands on the instruction f
or how far down from the port to locate them. Also seems like before the
y were to be mounted in a straight section, but my new ones start bendin
g after their flange almost immediately. Anyone with up to date info on
best location??
Bernie Kerr, getting 9A ready to sell since medical not renewable this y
ear , waiting on 12A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust |
Doesn't make a whole lot of difference, just make sure they are all
drilled equal distance from the
exhaust flange. Mine are one inch from the flange.
----- Original Message -----
From: jbker@juno.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust
Am currently replacing my 13B rotary in the 9A with O-320 and was
about to drill the 4 EGT probes and have not put my hands on the
instruction for how far down from the port to locate them. Also seems
like before they were to be mounted in a straight section, but my new
ones start bending after their flange almost immediately. Anyone with up
to date info on best location??
Bernie Kerr, getting 9A ready to sell since medical not renewable this
year , waiting on 12A
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
8/23/2007 4:04 PM
Message 7
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| Subject: | drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust |
Your post beckons the question, Why abandon a rotary 13B for a
horizontal four stroke O-320?
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jbker@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust
Am currently replacing my 13B rotary in the 9A with O-320 and was about
to drill the 4 EGT probes and have not put my hands on the instruction
for how far down from the port to locate them. Also seems like before
they were to be mounted in a straight section, but my new ones start
bending after their flange almost immediately. Anyone with up to date
info on best location??
Bernie Kerr, getting 9A ready to sell since medical not renewable this
year , waiting on 12A
Message 8
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| Subject: | drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust |
I would suggest that you contact Barrett, Aerosport, Performance or
Mattituck on the correct distance from the flange. It needs to be
consistent, the depth of insertion is also a factor, the probe's life is
affected and I beg to differ that the distance is unimportant. As you
increase the distance from 2 to 4 inches the combustion impulse is
reduced and the read becomes more consistent. The temperature will drop
as the distance increases (slightly), but what is important is the
consistency of Max Temp for ROP or LOP operations.
You can be assured that one inch will avoid the first tubing bend but
placing it closer than the pros advise will hasten a replacement probe.
You may find a recommendation of at least 2" and not more than 4".
Consult the professional engine builders.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust
Doesn't make a whole lot of difference, just make sure they are all
drilled equal distance from the
exhaust flange. Mine are one inch from the flange.
----- Original Message -----
From: jbker@juno.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust
Am currently replacing my 13B rotary in the 9A with O-320 and
was about to drill the 4 EGT probes and have not put my hands on the
instruction for how far down from the port to locate them. Also seems
like before they were to be mounted in a straight section, but my new
ones start bending after their flange almost immediately. Anyone with up
to date info on best location??
Bernie Kerr, getting 9A ready to sell since medical not
renewable this year , waiting on 12A
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
c
om/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________
Date: 8/23/2007 4:04 PM
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust |
The answer is in the post. He is selling and there is probably minimal
market for a rotary aircraft.
Ron Lee
Your post beckons the question, Why abandon a rotary 13B for a
horizontal four stroke O-320?
John Cox
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jbker@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 12:39 PM
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust
Bernie Kerr, getting 9A ready to sell since medical not renewable this
year , waiting on 12A
Message 10
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| Subject: | Looking for 6A Fuselage Jig |
Hey Folks,
I am a 6A builder with wings and tail completed, going to purchase a
Fuselage kit from another builder and am in need of a Fuselage Jig. I've
notice them posted here on the list several times before. Do you know where
I might find one? I'll be building @ the Corona Airport in So. Cal. Anybody
out there know of one available, give me a shout here or off list @
smirdrv@hotmail.com.
Thanks.
R.C.
_________________________________________________________________
Find a local pizza place, movie theater, and more.then map the best route!
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Message 11
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| Subject: | RE: Gear legs rusting in mounts |
The fine print, though, is
that the spark plugs actually screw into steel inserts, like heli-coils.
Only if they've been installed. No steel inserts AFAIK in new cylinder
heads.
Hence the admonitions to use the anti-seize sparingly. It prevents there
being excess compound which could migrate to contact with the aluminum head.
The problem with excess antisieze is that a glob inside the cylinder will
become red-hot without burning off and cause run-on during shutdown.
Linn
do not archive
Question about run-on: If firing sparkplugs don't cause run-on during
shutdown, how would red hot globs? Or would the real concern be pre-ignition
during normal operation?
Dale
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust |
Burnie,
Are you going to get the first RV 12 kit? I haven't heard from my engine mount
and gear legs.
Bob
>
> From: "jbker@juno.com" <jbker@juno.com>
> Date: 2007/08/23 Thu PM 03:39:07 EDT
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: drilling EGT probe vetterman exhaust
>
> Am currently replacing my 13B rotary in the 9A with O-320 and was about to drill
the 4 EGT probes
and have not put my hands on the instruction for how far down from the port to
locate them. Also
seems
like before they were to be mounted in a straight section, but my new ones start
bending after their
flange almost immediately. Anyone with up to date info on best location??
> Bernie Kerr, getting 9A ready to sell since medical not renewable this year ,
waiting on 12A
>
>
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