Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:40 AM - Tip-up rear window drilling (Bob Collins)
2. 10:01 AM - Antenna (Wheeler North)
3. 10:17 AM - Heat and Mixture Cable (Steve Glasgow)
4. 11:07 AM - Re: VOR/GLIDE SLOPE Antennas (Chuck Weyant)
5. 02:21 PM - Re: VOR/GLIDE SLOPE Antennas (Sam Buchanan)
6. 06:11 PM - Looking fOR n75nw (Al Grajek)
7. 07:14 PM - Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Bob Collins)
8. 07:21 PM - Re: Looking fOR n75nw (Ron Lee)
9. 09:57 PM - Re: Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Steve)
10. 10:30 PM - Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Ed)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tip-up rear window drilling |
(Pulled this out of another thread to rename it)
I worked on the rear "window" today. I assume the rear edge of the window sits
forward of the spacer atop of that center piece....it's 1 1/8 aft the rear top
skin. It confused me a bit because instructions said to cut 1 1/4" from the "do
not cut line," which would make the window interfere with that spacer.
(tip-up...rv-7a)
The other question is what do you use for the backing strip. do you just cut scrap
pieces of .020? So you'd end up with several small strips instead of some
nice long piece?
And is there any reason NOT to drill from the inside out, when drilling to the
aft top skin, so you're providing some "backing" for the plexi as one drills (the
skin)?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132335#132335
Message 2
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The direction of polarization on GS and VOR/ILS is the same so the same
antenna will work for both however they are usually set up "maximized" for
the VOR use since for the GS/ILS use it is pretty much looking right down
the throat of the transmitters.
Some newer receivers split the signal internally others provide for two
antennas or an external splitter.
I have the 532 for GS and an Archer in each tip for each nav. However the
range on the latter is less than I would like, in some cases by a lot. But
Bob has inspected my installation and says it is the way he designed it.
Someday I'll get up the gumption to do something about it and try to figure
it out. However the GS/ILS and GPS in the 430 work so well it's hard to get
excited about fixing something I don't really use much other than when I'm
really bored over Friant, California somewhere east of Fresno.
;{(
Message 3
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| Subject: | Heat and Mixture Cable |
Does anyone know how far away from an exhaust pipe the mixture cable should
be for an IO 360 engine?
Currently we have 1/4" to 1/8" clearance. By re-routing the cable we can
get from 1/2" to 3/4" clearance.
In both cases we have a good 15" of exhaust pipe to the cylinder head.
I have a friend who toasted all his cables when he overheated his engine.
So I'm concerned, and what'd to get a general consensuses of opinion.
Thanks,
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/GLIDE SLOPE Antennas |
Hey thanks guys. I've got a Garmin 430...going to the manual for
further info (duhh)!
By the way, how is the Archer Antenna for ease of installation?
Chuck
Subject: Re: RV-List: VOR/GLIDE SLOPE Antennas
I have to second Gary's comments about the Archer Antenna. I just
installed one and it really improved the performance over my previous
antenna (except for when the VOR is off the opposite wing tip). I also
have a SL-30 (best nav/com I have ever used). Any VOR antenna can be
used as a GS antenna, it depends more on the radio. From what I have
read, a VOR antenna is close enough so that modern avionics can separate
out the signal well. Older units may require a splitter, but you still
may not get the best performance unless your radio was designed to use a
VOR antenna. So again, follow the instructions of the radio. The
antenna does not matter in that regard.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On 9/1/07, RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com> wrote:
Bob Archer's Sportcraft wing tip antenna is the best on the market.
It has
worked for almost 10-years for me as both VOR and Glide Slope.
Depending on
your radio, you may need a splitter. My SL-30 only has ONE input for
NAV and
that does both the VOR and Glide Slope.
See Model 1.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/archer_antennas.php
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,051 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Chuck Weyant" < chuck@chuckdirect.com>
To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: VOR/GLIDE SLOPE Antennas
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2007 12:06:56 -0700
Anyone using the AV-532 VOR ANTENNA sold by Spruce? If so, does it
work
well? Will it also work as a VOR/GS antenna? Spruce is telling me
it will.
I'm building a 'ten' and having a problem with the "V" shaped Glide
Slope/VOR antenna Spruce is selling, 11-17923 CI-158C "V" DIPOLE
VOR/GS,
fitting in the top of my vertical stab and clearing the rudder
counter
balance when it swings. The VOR AV-532 sold by Spruce,(which comes
straight
out for an inch or two then 45's back and clears the rudder counter
balance
nicely) will work and Spruce says it will also work as a Glide Slope
antenna
as well. The catalogue says nothing about GS capability though. Is
anyone
using the AV-532 VOR ANTENNA sold by Spruce as a VOR/GS antenna? If
so,
does it receive the GS well?
How about the COMANT CI-193 GLIDESCOPE ANTENNA
half wave dipole as an alternative? Will it work well in my
wingtip? Could
it double as a VOR antenna too or do I have to purchase a seperate
VOR
antenna?
What do you think? Any recommendations? Any alternatives?
Chuck Weyant
_________________________________________________________________
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: VOR/GLIDE SLOPE Antennas |
Chuck Weyant wrote:
> Hey thanks guys. I've got a Garmin 430...going to the manual for
> further info (duhh)!
>
> By the way, how is the Archer Antenna for ease of installation? Chuck
"Ease of installation" is difficult to define but here is the
installation in my RV-6:
http://thervjournal.com/sportcraft.htm
Sam Buchanan
Message 6
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| Subject: | Looking fOR n75nw |
I was Landing at my home base, LEX. Sunday, and I saw an Un Painted RV8A,
Departing LEX for somewhere in Texas. Just wondering who it is.
Al Grajek
RV8
LEX
algrajek@msn.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
Testing 1-2-3. This is the group where people want to talk about building RVs,
right? (g)
Bob Collins wrote:
> (Pulled this out of another thread to rename it)
>
> I worked on the rear "window" today. I assume the rear edge of the window sits
forward of the spacer atop of that center piece....it's 1 1/8 aft the rear top
skin. It confused me a bit because instructions said to cut 1 1/4" from the
"do not cut line," which would make the window interfere with that spacer.
> (tip-up...rv-7a)
>
> The other question is what do you use for the backing strip. do you just cut
scrap pieces of .020? So you'd end up with several small strips instead of some
nice long piece?
>
> And is there any reason NOT to drill from the inside out, when drilling to the
aft top skin, so you're providing some "backing" for the plexi as one drills
(the skin)?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132434#132434
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Looking fOR n75nw |
According to http://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/NNum_inquiry.asp
it is not assigned but their records may be lagging
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 7:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Looking fOR n75nw
>
> I was Landing at my home base, LEX. Sunday, and I saw an Un Painted RV8A,
> Departing LEX for somewhere in Texas. Just wondering who it is.
> Al Grajek
> RV8
> LEX
> algrajek@msn.com
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
Bob,
Maybe everyone is gone for the long weekend. :-)
The rear edge on the back window of my -6A tip-up sits forward of the
spacer, just as you suggested. I guess that violates the 1 1/4" do not
cut line you mentioned, but it is the only way to make the window fit
the airframe in that area. There is still over an inch of window tucked
in between the top skin and the roll bar brace.
For backing strips I used some .025 (I think it was from the top skin
cutout for the back window). I ended up making one long part for each
side of the window. I don't see any problem with making these in
smaller segments if desired. Also, the backing strips are an option
according to the plans (dwg 48). You could go with only a washer over
the plexi.
I drilled my back window from the outside, with an assistant backing up
the inside of the plexi using a wood block. I first drilled pilot holes
in the skin. I prefer to have the aluminum act as a guide for drilling
the plexi, rather than the plexi being a guide for the aluminum. Don't
see why drilling from the inside would not work, as long as you are
careful not to let the drill bit wander when it hits the aluminum.
good luck,
Steve Allison
(sanding the canopy fairing.....and sanding.....and sanding.....and
sanding....)
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> Testing 1-2-3. This is the group where people want to talk about building RVs,
right? (g)
>
>
> Bob Collins wrote:
>
>> (Pulled this out of another thread to rename it)
>>
>> I worked on the rear "window" today. I assume the rear edge of the window sits
forward of the spacer atop of that center piece....it's 1 1/8 aft the rear
top skin. It confused me a bit because instructions said to cut 1 1/4" from the
"do not cut line," which would make the window interfere with that spacer.
>> (tip-up...rv-7a)
>>
>> The other question is what do you use for the backing strip. do you just cut
scrap pieces of .020? So you'd end up with several small strips instead of some
nice long piece?
>>
>> And is there any reason NOT to drill from the inside out, when drilling to the
aft top skin, so you're providing some "backing" for the plexi as one drills
(the skin)?
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
Bob,
Use very low pressure on the drill. Let it kinda burn its way through
the plastic at its own speed. In any case, you should be using plexi
drill bits which would be unsuitable for aluminum. On my slider, there
were plenty of places where I drilled through the plexi and into steel,
but I switched bits once through the glass. In addition, the holes in
the plastic should be larger diameter than those for the fasteners in
metal to allow for expansion and contraction.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>(Pulled this out of another thread to rename it)
>
>I worked on the rear "window" today. I assume the rear edge of the window sits
forward of the spacer atop of that center piece....it's 1 1/8 aft the rear top
skin. It confused me a bit because instructions said to cut 1 1/4" from the
"do not cut line," which would make the window interfere with that spacer.
>(tip-up...rv-7a)
>
>The other question is what do you use for the backing strip. do you just cut scrap
pieces of .020? So you'd end up with several small strips instead of some
nice long piece?
>
>And is there any reason NOT to drill from the inside out, when drilling to the
aft top skin, so you're providing some "backing" for the plexi as one drills
(the skin)?
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>Letters from Flyover Country
>http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132335#132335
>
>
>
>
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