Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:21 AM - Canopy Backing strip, political discussions. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
2. 07:22 AM - Re: Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Larry Bowles)
3. 07:45 AM - Re: Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Larry Bowles)
4. 09:25 AM - Re:Tip-up rear window drilling (Sebastian Trost)
5. 10:01 AM - Re: Re:Tip-up rear window drilling (Bob Collins)
6. 10:03 AM - Re: Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Bob Collins)
7. 10:06 AM - Re: Canopy Backing strip, political discussions. (Bob Collins)
8. 10:42 AM - RV completion rate (Ron Lee)
9. 11:08 AM - Re: Canopy Backing strip, political discussions. (Kevin Horton)
10. 11:39 AM - Re: RV completion rate (Scott)
11. 12:52 PM - Re: Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Larry Bowles)
12. 03:07 PM - Re: VOR/GLIDE SLOPE Antennas (Ed Bundy)
13. 05:14 PM - Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Kelly Patterson)
14. 05:53 PM - Re: RV completion rate (Bob Collins)
15. 05:58 PM - Re: Re: Tip-up rear window drilling (Bob Collins)
16. 07:46 PM - Niagara 20002A Oil Cooler for sale * NEW * (Travis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Canopy Backing strip, political discussions. |
Bob I'd use .032 or, better yet, .040 for your rear window backing plates.
My RV-6A is not a tip-up but I do know that anything you can do to keep the
pop rivets from expanding in the plexi holes will ensure that the plastic
does NOT crack. Don't forget to use the aluminum blind rivets that vans
supplies or you also will have cracking (the soft aluminum rivets don't put
near the stress on the joint that steel ones do).
I know what you're saying about not much being posted about airplane
building these days, those RV-7/9/10s are just too easy to build and have
too good of instructions. Try building a -4 or pick up a second hand -6 kit
and see if you don't scratch your head for a while and start asking
questions on the list again. On the other hand, I think anything that gets
people motivated about writing their congress person or getting involved in
politics is not a bad thing. I know those of us who work for a living and
just try to go about our business and not bother anyone often would rather
not get involved because the lies and corruption that afflicts many of our
politicians tends to sicken us.
But, we are going to have to take time out and start doing much more than
just writing our congressional delegations or this passion we have called
flying WILL CEASE TO EXIST!! If user fees or TSA rules don't do it, then
the political climate of doing it "for the children" or "protecting us from
ourselves" surely will. Those who have been having this political
discussion on this list may be preaching to the choir but if one person can
be influenced to "join the fight" and get off his/her duff and get involved,
then....maybe it's worth it?!
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Getting ready to clear the prop for the first time.
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: I know this is a mistake, but.....
But the problem isn't that one thread is off the RV topic...the problem is
people aren't posting RV topics...........
Personally, I worked on the canopy on the RV-7A tip up again today .......
The other question is what do you use for the backing strip. do you just cut
scrap pieces of .020?
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
HI BOB,
SECTION E-E ON DWG. 48 (UPPER RIGHT CORNER) SHOWS A 5/8 BACKING STRIP
ALIGNED WITH THE EDGE OF THE SKIN ON ONE SIDE AND THE EDGE OF THE PLEXI ON
THE OTHER. SO, THE FINAL CUT WILL MAKE THE PLEXI LAP THE ALUM. 5/8". I
ACTUALL USED 3/4" JUST TO GIVE ME A LITTLE PLAY ROOM. THE 1 1/4" CUT IS AN
INTERMEDIATE STEP AND YOU WILL HAVE TO TRIM A LITTLE EXTRA AT THE CENTER
TOP.
I USED A CONTINUOUS STRIP FOR THE BACKING STRIP (ONE PER SIDE).
ORDERED ENOUGH .020 TO CUT IT FROM AND USED CARDBOARD TO MAKE A TEMPLATE.
.020 SEEMS TO BE SUFFICIENT, THERE ARE NO PULLED RIVETS IN THE TIP-UP.
(ALL JUST, IMHO)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
LARRY BOWLES
RV7A IN TEXAS
P.S. You should see it!
http://secreen-saver4u.info/screensavers/fun2007/beer_fun2007_screensaver.scr
Has found specially for you.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
BOB,
SORRY I DIDN'T ADD: AS FAR AS DRILLING, I FOLLOWED VANS INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY. HE SAYS TO MARK THE HOLE LOCATIONS ON THE AFT SKIN SO IT WOULD BE
LOGICAL TO DRILL FROM THE OUTSIDE. I DID THIS BEFORE THE FINAL TRIM OF THE
AFT EDGE OF THE PLEXI SO I COULD MEASURE THE EDGE DISTANCE FROM THE ACTUAL
HOLES.
(IMHO)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
LARRY BOWLES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 9:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip-up rear window drilling
>
> Testing 1-2-3. This is the group where people want to talk about building
RVs, right? (g)
>
>
> Bob Collins wrote:
> > (Pulled this out of another thread to rename it)
> >
> > I worked on the rear "window" today. I assume the rear edge of the
window sits forward of the spacer atop of that center piece....it's 1 1/8
aft the rear top skin. It confused me a bit because instructions said to cut
1 1/4" from the "do not cut line," which would make the window interfere
with that spacer.
> > (tip-up...rv-7a)
> >
> > The other question is what do you use for the backing strip. do you just
cut scrap pieces of .020? So you'd end up with several small strips instead
of some nice long piece?
> >
> > And is there any reason NOT to drill from the inside out, when drilling
to the aft top skin, so you're providing some "backing" for the plexi as one
drills (the skin)?
>
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132434#132434
>
>
P.S. You should see it!
http://secreen-saver4u.info/screensavers/fun2007/beer_fun2007_screensaver.scr
Has found specially for you.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re:Tip-up rear window drilling |
Bob,
One think to watch out for is not to let the plexiglass pull back
from the roll bar frame as you drill and cleco the plexi from the
back side and forward. I didn't watch this closely, and by the time I
got to the front of the right side, I had pulled the front lower
corner of the right side plexi back about 1/2 inch. I now have a gap
between the back and front glass at the right bottom of the roll bar
of 1/2 inch. It's somewhat covered by the Al of the side, but not
completely.
I used 4 pieces of scrap for the backing strip. I wasn't patient
enough to make a compound curved piece.
Thanks for the RV newsletter. I look forward to reading it every week!
Sebastian Trost
RV-7A tipup
flying (180 hours)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re:Tip-up rear window drilling |
//One think to watch out for is not to let the plexiglass pull back from the
roll bar frame as you drill and cleco the plexi from the back side and
forward.
How ' bout if I drill the rollbar first?
//Thanks for the RV newsletter. I look forward to reading it every week!
Thanks. Unfortunately, I've decided I don't really have time to continue
contributing to it, even after Rob set up the infrastructure to make that a
bit easier. I'll still write some stuff from time to time, but I won't be
working on it each week as before.
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
// SORRY I DIDN'T ADD: AS FAR AS DRILLING, I FOLLOWED VANS INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY. HE SAYS TO MARK THE HOLE LOCATIONS ON THE AFT SKIN SO IT WOULD BE
LOGICAL TO DRILL FROM THE OUTSIDE.
Did you have someone on the inside with a piece of wood or something against
the plexi to provide some backing? That's my problem at the moment, a warm
day and nobody around to assist on a holiday. (something about a State Fair
going on, I guess).
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Canopy Backing strip, political discussions. |
//I know what you're saying about not much being posted about airplane
building these days, those RV-7/9/10s are just too easy to build and have
too good of instructions. Try building a -4 or pick up a second hand -6 kit
and see if you don't scratch your head for a while and start asking
questions on the list again.
Isn't that the truth? Folks come to look at the plane (like yesterday, we
had a little BBQ, and they want to know how it goes together and when I tell
them that everything comes pre-drilled and you line up the holes, I suddenly
don't feel like much of a "builder." Those folks who build from plans or pre
pre-punched really were something.
Message 8
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| Subject: | RV completion rate |
> Isn't that the truth? Folks come to look at the plane (like yesterday, we
> had a little BBQ, and they want to know how it goes together and when I
> tell
> them that everything comes pre-drilled and you line up the holes, I
> suddenly
> don't feel like much of a "builder." Those folks who build from plans or
> pre
> pre-punched really were something.
Check the RV completion rate over the last ten years or so. You will see a
doubling a few years ago which MAY coincide with the improved kits.
Personally I think getting a RV flying is more important than the amount of
time that you spend working on it.
Ron Lee
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Backing strip, political discussions. |
On 3 Sep 2007, at 13:05, Bob Collins wrote:
> <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
> //I know what you're saying about not much being posted about airplane
> building these days, those RV-7/9/10s are just too easy to build
> and have
> too good of instructions. Try building a -4 or pick up a second
> hand -6 kit
> and see if you don't scratch your head for a while and start asking
> questions on the list again.
>
> Isn't that the truth? Folks come to look at the plane (like
> yesterday, we
> had a little BBQ, and they want to know how it goes together and
> when I tell
> them that everything comes pre-drilled and you line up the holes, I
> suddenly
> don't feel like much of a "builder." Those folks who build from
> plans or pre
> pre-punched really were something.
I visited a local RV-8 builder on Saturday. I had the original
fuselage kit while he is working on the new pre-punched fuselage. I
was amazed at how quickly it is going together. He said it took him
3.5 hours to build the landing gear boxes, including time to deburr,
final drill, deburr the holes, prime and assemble, etc. I spent more
than 3.5 hours just scratching my head figuring out how I was going
to solve various problems when I built my landing gear boxes. I
wouldn't have made it if it wasn't for those who had gone before me
and were willing to share how they managed to get their landing gear
boxes together.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV completion rate |
Some of us are STILL working with zero pre-punched stuff! Just bought a
"new in crate" wing kit about a month ago. The Van's return address on
the crate was in Corneilius, OR. I don't remember when they were out of
there!! It must be an OLD kit! Price was GREAT and the majority of
parts are still pristine. One crate had a little problem from mice pee,
but the few parts affected are easily replaced with new. For the price,
I can afford to replace a whole bunch of stuff. As a bonus, the spars
were built by Phlogiston and look great...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Ron Lee wrote:
>
>> Isn't that the truth? Folks come to look at the plane (like
>> yesterday, we
>> had a little BBQ, and they want to know how it goes together and when
>> I tell
>> them that everything comes pre-drilled and you line up the holes, I
>> suddenly
>> don't feel like much of a "builder." Those folks who build from plans
>> or pre
>> pre-punched really were something.
>
>
> Check the RV completion rate over the last ten years or so. You will
> see a
> doubling a few years ago which MAY coincide with the improved kits.
>
> Personally I think getting a RV flying is more important than the
> amount of
> time that you spend working on it.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
> Did you have someone on the inside with a piece of wood or something
against
> the plexi to provide some backing? That's my problem at the moment, a warm
> day and nobody around to assist on a holiday. (something about a State
Fair
> going on, I guess).
Do not archive
I DID NOT HAVE HELP. BEST I CAN RECALL, I WAS ABLE TO REACH AROUND TO HOLD
MY OWN BACK-UP(FINGERS I GUESS, I DON'T REMEMBER USING WOOD). ALSO (AGAIN,
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY) I PRE-DRILLED THE SKIN UNDERSIZED AND THEN MATCH
DRILLED THE PLEXI, ALSO UNDERSIZED, AND THEN ENLARGED SEPERATELY. I DON'T
REMEMBER DOING SO, BUT IT WOULD MAKE SENSE TO HAVE ALREADY DRILLED THE
FORWARD EDGE TO THE ROLL BAR AND HAVE IT FASTENED WHILE DRILLING THE AFT. I
THINK I HAD IT FASTENED WITH CLECOS. I'M JUST TELLING YOU WHAT I DID, TO
THE BEST OF MY RECOLLECTION, NOT SUGGESTING YOU DO THE SAME.
GOOD LUCK
LARRY
TIP-UP IN TEXAS
P.S. You should see it!
http://secreen-saver4u.info/screensavers/fun2007/beer_fun2007_screensaver.scr
Has found specially for you.
Message 12
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| Subject: | VOR/GLIDE SLOPE Antennas |
This is a timely discussion. I just finished installing a Bob Archer
antenna, and using a Comant diplexer (special expen$ive "splitter") I'm
feeding the VOR and GS signal to a VAL INS 422.
The VOR and LOC signals get incredible reception, but the glideslope is very
weak. It usually only picks up around 5miles (basically right at the outer
marker).
Bob says he's never heard of this problem and given me some things to check,
but I wonder if anyone else has any ideas.
I can pick up the LOC at over 20 miles and 1000' agl, it seems like I should
be getting much better GS coverage than 5 miles at 1800'.
Ed Bundy
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
Bob,
This thread just brings back memories of how I hated to drill into my plexi.
So I didn't.
Instead I chose to use the oft mentioned, tried & true Sika window 'gluing'
system.
I love it. There is not a single hole drilled in the plexi. Very 'clean'
look on the finished aircraft since there are no screws. Probably lighter
too, but I won't get into that.
Maybe too late for your building process, but you should consider it.
And I think everyone is out flying or something, so the list traffic is
light.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A N716K
PHX, AZ 175 hours
(getting ready to rotate the tires)
do not archive
>
> Testing 1-2-3. This is the group where people want to talk about building
> RVs,
> right? (g)
>
>
> Bob Collins wrote:
>> (Pulled this out of another thread to rename it)
>>
>> I worked on the rear "window" today. I assume the rear edge of the window
>> sits
> forward of the spacer atop of that center piece....it's 1 1/8 aft the rear
> top
> skin. It confused me a bit because instructions said to cut 1 1/4" from
> the
> "do not cut line," which would make the window interfere with that spacer.
>> (tip-up...rv-7a)
>>
>> The other question is what do you use for the backing strip. do you just
>> cut
> scrap pieces of .020? So you'd end up with several small strips instead
> of some
> nice long piece?
>>
>> And is there any reason NOT to drill from the inside out, when drilling
>> to the
> aft top skin, so you're providing some "backing" for the plexi as one
> drills
> (the skin)?
>
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV completion rate |
//Personally I think getting a RV flying is more important than the amount
of time that you spend working on it.
You may be right, but about halfway through drilling the rear window today I
couldn't help but smiling. Beautiful day, the Indians game on the radio. The
project going well, and I just said outloud, "God, I love building my
airplane!" I'm probably closing in 1,800 hours so far -- well beyond, I
think -- most people... But darned if it isn't some of the best hours of my
life I've ever spent!
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tip-up rear window drilling |
Oh, Larry, you have no idea how much weight I put into the experiences of
those who've "gone before." After reading your message, I did EXACTLY what
you suggested. Thankfully, I have long-enough arms. Came out great. Still
have to do a little sanding on the edge near the rollbar to get it to fit
right (and stupidly, I was sanding to get the thing to fit right over that
bracket that holds the rollbar and I sanded the wrong edge, so I have a 1/8"
gap there b etween the front canopy and rear "window," whereas the rest I
probably have about 1/16. Oh well, I still like it.
Thanks for your help!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowles
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Tip-up rear window drilling
> Did you have someone on the inside with a piece of wood or something
against
> the plexi to provide some backing? That's my problem at the moment, a
> warm day and nobody around to assist on a holiday. (something about a
> State
Fair
> going on, I guess).
Do not archive
I DID NOT HAVE HELP. BEST I CAN RECALL, I WAS ABLE TO REACH AROUND TO HOLD
MY OWN BACK-UP(FINGERS I GUESS, I DON'T REMEMBER USING WOOD). ALSO (AGAIN,
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY) I PRE-DRILLED THE SKIN UNDERSIZED AND THEN MATCH
DRILLED THE PLEXI, ALSO UNDERSIZED, AND THEN ENLARGED SEPERATELY. I DON'T
REMEMBER DOING SO, BUT IT WOULD MAKE SENSE TO HAVE ALREADY DRILLED THE
FORWARD EDGE TO THE ROLL BAR AND HAVE IT FASTENED WHILE DRILLING THE AFT. I
THINK I HAD IT FASTENED WITH CLECOS. I'M JUST TELLING YOU WHAT I DID, TO
THE BEST OF MY RECOLLECTION, NOT SUGGESTING YOU DO THE SAME.
GOOD LUCK
LARRY
TIP-UP IN TEXAS
P.S. You should see it!
http://secreen-saver4u.info/screensavers/fun2007/beer_fun2007_screensaver.sc
r
Has found specially for you.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Niagara 20002A Oil Cooler for sale * NEW * |
I have a factory new Niagara 20002A oil cooler. This is an FAA PMA'd 7 row oil
cooler. The Stewart Warner part number is 8406R. It is $295.95 on Aircraft Spruce
and $185.00 from Vans direct. I will sell it to you for $140.00 which does
include shipping by USPS priority mail. This should save you at least $60.00
over buying/shipping it from Vans. I have some pictures if you want to see it,
but it was only taken out of the box once, to take the pictures, NEVER USED!
Let me know if you have any questions, you can e-mail or call me. Below are some
links to info about this cooler:
Van's webpage selling the cooler:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin...ct=sw-oilcooler
Aircraft Spruce selling the cooler:
http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/eppages/ndm.php
Tech page from manufacturer:
http://www.niagaraairparts.com/2000...cifications.pdf
Travis
TravisHamblen@gmail.com
651-269-6542
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132601#132601
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