Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:52 AM - Fuel Sender Wire Length (Valovich, Paul)
2. 09:37 AM - Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length (Tim Bryan)
3. 09:55 AM - Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length (N777TY)
4. 10:32 AM - FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (jan)
5. 11:16 AM - Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (Patrick Kelley)
6. 01:04 PM - Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (Steve)
7. 01:20 PM - Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (jan)
8. 01:25 PM - Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (jan)
9. 03:22 PM - Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length (Jim Jewell)
10. 03:34 PM - Lightening holes in ribs (Scott)
11. 05:01 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (Sam Buchanan)
12. 06:47 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (David Burton)
13. 06:59 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (Scott)
14. 07:05 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (Scott)
15. 08:46 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (Patrick Kelley)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Wire Length |
The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it out.
-8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also, since the
tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install Van's float- type
fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions. Plan 16A makes one
reference to the nearly horizontal segment as "Approximately 3 inches". However,
the scale view is drawn showing that segment over 4 inches. No reference at
all to the "vertical" segment length.
Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing out how
you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I may have filed
away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing?
I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks were talking
about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that come form?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Wire Length |
I have to admit I am not sure how you would do this very accurately in a
closed tank. I presume the quick built tanks come with no senders
installed. Maybe another quick build kit builder will respond with
something more sensible but is it possible to take your senders to another
builder with an open set of tanks to get those cut, bent, and fitted for
maximum effectiveness? There probably still is some minor differences
between one tank and another, but you may be able to get pretty close.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:50 AM
> To: Valovich, Paul; rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length
>
>
> The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it
> out.
>
> -8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also,
> since the tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install
> Van's float- type fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions.
> Plan 16A makes one reference to the nearly horizontal segment as
> "Approximately 3 inches". However, the scale view is drawn showing that
> segment over 4 inches. No reference at all to the "vertical" segment
> length.
>
> Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing
> out how you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I may
> have filed away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing?
>
> I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks were
> talking about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that
> come form?
> Paul Valovich
> N192NM Reserved
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length |
There's a separate drawing that you should have received with the senders (if you
bought them from Vans) w/ these dimensions.
It'd probably be best to contact Van's for a copy.
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135903#135903
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Hi,
I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
head... ??
Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
countersinking the rear spar
Any comments here greatly appreciated
Jan
RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Just don't rivet there until the ribs are in place. As you put in each rib,
rivet the rear spar to the next rib. Shop head inside, universal outside -
keeps it looking neat. I had no problem reaching the heads behind the flap
brace with a long set; just don't rivet the brace to the bottom skin until
the last so you can run the set between the skin and brace.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - finishing the canopy frame
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jan
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question
Hi,
I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
head... ??
Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
countersinking the rear spar
Any comments here greatly appreciated
Jan
RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Jan,
I put the shop heads on the aft side of the spar (factory head forward,
inside the wing) for the rivets between the wing walk ribs. This made
it relatively easy to slide the wing walk ribs into place. The rib can
be tipped, twisted and flexed a bit in order to "slide" it into the end
of the wing.
Steve Allison
RV-6A - no stinkin' pop rivets in the wing skins :-)
jan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
> root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
> So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
> each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
> on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
> push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
> on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
> will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
> head... ??
>
> Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
> countersinking the rear spar
>
> Any comments here greatly appreciated
>
> Jan
> RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Thanks for that !
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Kelley
Sent: 23 September 2007 19:10
Subject: RE: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question
Just don't rivet there until the ribs are in place. As you put in each rib,
rivet the rear spar to the next rib. Shop head inside, universal outside -
keeps it looking neat. I had no problem reaching the heads behind the flap
brace with a long set; just don't rivet the brace to the bottom skin until
the last so you can run the set between the skin and brace.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - finishing the canopy frame
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jan
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question
Hi,
I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
head... ??
Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
countersinking the rear spar
Any comments here greatly appreciated
Jan
RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Thanks ..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Sent: 23 September 2007 21:03
Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question
Jan,
I put the shop heads on the aft side of the spar (factory head forward,
inside the wing) for the rivets between the wing walk ribs. This made
it relatively easy to slide the wing walk ribs into place. The rib can
be tipped, twisted and flexed a bit in order to "slide" it into the end
of the wing.
Steve Allison
RV-6A - no stinkin' pop rivets in the wing skins :-)
jan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at
the
> root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section
-
> So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
> each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
> on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
> push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop
head
> on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
> will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
> head... ??
>
> Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
> countersinking the rear spar
>
> Any comments here greatly appreciated
>
> Jan
> RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length |
Hi Paul,
Take a look at the outside end of the fuel tank in profile. The fuel sender
flange and gasket will eventually be installed mounted on the rear face of
the rear baffle of the tank.
For fine tuning;
If you take great care as to the sender's correct vertical height and it's
orientation as to left or right tank and clamp the sending unit onto the end
flange outside the tank end. You should be able to adjust the float
actuating wire length and shape to provide the correct movement of the
sender arm.
Be sure to check electrically with a meter or the gage itself. mark the gage
as to left or right for later installation.
I would use a piece of scrap material about the thickness of the gasket
clamped to the tank rear flange with the sender temporarily mounted to it
with a couple of screws or clecoes.
Careful measuring with correct positioning and alignment of the sender
mounting face with the rear tank baffle will be important.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb@btsapps.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 9:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length
>
> I have to admit I am not sure how you would do this very accurately in a
> closed tank. I presume the quick built tanks come with no senders
> installed. Maybe another quick build kit builder will respond with
> something more sensible but is it possible to take your senders to another
> builder with an open set of tanks to get those cut, bent, and fitted for
> maximum effectiveness? There probably still is some minor differences
> between one tank and another, but you may be able to get pretty close.
>
> Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
>> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:50 AM
>> To: Valovich, Paul; rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length
>>
>>
>> The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it
>> out.
>>
>> -8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also,
>> since the tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install
>> Van's float- type fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions.
>> Plan 16A makes one reference to the nearly horizontal segment as
>> "Approximately 3 inches". However, the scale view is drawn showing that
>> segment over 4 inches. No reference at all to the "vertical" segment
>> length.
>>
>> Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing
>> out how you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I
>> may
>> have filed away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing?
>>
>> I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks
>> were
>> talking about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that
>> come form?
>> Paul Valovich
>> N192NM Reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lightening holes in ribs |
Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
cutter to do the cutting job.
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes in ribs |
Scott wrote:
>
> Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
> to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
> accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
> cutter to do the cutting job.
>
Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of
round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle.
Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark in
the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter.
Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
Sam Buchanan
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lightening holes in ribs |
Hi Scott,
You can copy the drawing for the ribs or order a new one from Vans. They
are only $3 or so for a full sized sheet. Cut it out and lay it in the rib
to mark the centers.
Just a silly suggestion:
DON'T get on a roll and cut lightening holes in ALL the ribs. The tank ribs
and ends of the tanks don't get "lightened". It's a hassle to fix them
after they have big holes in them, ask me how I know... And no, it wasn't
me, it was Van's themselves. I got one of the first set of wing kits that
came with the lightening holes done at the factory. Whoever they gave that
task to did them all... tank ribs and all!
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
cutter to do the cutting job.
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes in ribs |
I understand! I have experience with them...I used one to cut out all
the holes in my new instrument panel on my Corben. Good thing there
were only about 8 holes I had to make! :)
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes in ribs |
Ooh, now there's some advice I can really use!! Yes, I probably
would've done just that! I would have gotten the flycutter all set up
and done every hole that was that size in one fell swoop. Thanks for
saving me from having to send MORE money to Van...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
David Burton wrote:
>
>Hi Scott,
>
>You can copy the drawing for the ribs or order a new one from Vans. They
>are only $3 or so for a full sized sheet. Cut it out and lay it in the rib
>to mark the centers.
>
>Just a silly suggestion:
>
>DON'T get on a roll and cut lightening holes in ALL the ribs. The tank ribs
>and ends of the tanks don't get "lightened". It's a hassle to fix them
>after they have big holes in them, ask me how I know... And no, it wasn't
>me, it was Van's themselves. I got one of the first set of wing kits that
>came with the lightening holes done at the factory. Whoever they gave that
>task to did them all... tank ribs and all!
>
>Dave
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
>Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:33 PM
>To: RV List; RV-4 List; RV-4@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
>
>
>Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
>to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
>accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
>cutter to do the cutting job.
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lightening holes in ribs |
That's a great idea; I wish I'd thought of it. I carefully did the first
rib and then used the stock I'd just removed to mark all the rest of the
ribs. Even then, I'd clamp the rib in place and rotate the fly cutter by
hand to check where it was cutting. By the way, that removed stock is
useful for making small bits. Even the small holes yielded clamping pads,
bolt washers (for when I was bolting the longerons to the jig), and shims.
Waste nothing!
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - working on canopy frame
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
Scott wrote:
>
> Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
> to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
> accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
> cutter to do the cutting job.
>
Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of
round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle.
Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark in
the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter.
Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
Sam Buchanan
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|