---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 09/23/07: 15 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 08:52 AM - Fuel Sender Wire Length (Valovich, Paul) 2. 09:37 AM - Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length (Tim Bryan) 3. 09:55 AM - Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length (N777TY) 4. 10:32 AM - FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (jan) 5. 11:16 AM - Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (Patrick Kelley) 6. 01:04 PM - Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (Steve) 7. 01:20 PM - Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (jan) 8. 01:25 PM - Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question (jan) 9. 03:22 PM - Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length (Jim Jewell) 10. 03:34 PM - Lightening holes in ribs (Scott) 11. 05:01 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (Sam Buchanan) 12. 06:47 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (David Burton) 13. 06:59 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (Scott) 14. 07:05 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (Scott) 15. 08:46 PM - Re: Lightening holes in ribs (Patrick Kelley) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 08:52:35 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length From: "Valovich, Paul" The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it out. -8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also, since the tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install Van's float- type fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions. Plan 16A makes one reference to the nearly horizontal segment as "Approximately 3 inches". However, the scale view is drawn showing that segment over 4 inches. No reference at all to the "vertical" segment length. Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing out how you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I may have filed away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing? I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks were talking about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that come form? Paul Valovich N192NM Reserved ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 09:37:20 AM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length I have to admit I am not sure how you would do this very accurately in a closed tank. I presume the quick built tanks come with no senders installed. Maybe another quick build kit builder will respond with something more sensible but is it possible to take your senders to another builder with an open set of tanks to get those cut, bent, and fitted for maximum effectiveness? There probably still is some minor differences between one tank and another, but you may be able to get pretty close. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul > Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:50 AM > To: Valovich, Paul; rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length > > > The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it > out. > > -8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also, > since the tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install > Van's float- type fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions. > Plan 16A makes one reference to the nearly horizontal segment as > "Approximately 3 inches". However, the scale view is drawn showing that > segment over 4 inches. No reference at all to the "vertical" segment > length. > > Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing > out how you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I may > have filed away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing? > > I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks were > talking about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that > come form? > Paul Valovich > N192NM Reserved > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:55:39 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length From: "N777TY" There's a separate drawing that you should have received with the senders (if you bought them from Vans) w/ these dimensions. It'd probably be best to contact Van's for a copy. -------- RV-7A N777TY (res) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135903#135903 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:32:40 AM PST US From: jan Subject: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Hi, I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section - So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal head... ?? Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with countersinking the rear spar Any comments here greatly appreciated Jan RV6 ... building almost from scratch ... ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 11:16:52 AM PST US From: "Patrick Kelley" Subject: RE: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Just don't rivet there until the ribs are in place. As you put in each rib, rivet the rear spar to the next rib. Shop head inside, universal outside - keeps it looking neat. I had no problem reaching the heads behind the flap brace with a long set; just don't rivet the brace to the bottom skin until the last so you can run the set between the skin and brace. Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - finishing the canopy frame -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jan Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:27 AM Subject: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Hi, I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section - So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal head... ?? Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with countersinking the rear spar Any comments here greatly appreciated Jan RV6 ... building almost from scratch ... ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:04:59 PM PST US From: Steve Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Jan, I put the shop heads on the aft side of the spar (factory head forward, inside the wing) for the rivets between the wing walk ribs. This made it relatively easy to slide the wing walk ribs into place. The rib can be tipped, twisted and flexed a bit in order to "slide" it into the end of the wing. Steve Allison RV-6A - no stinkin' pop rivets in the wing skins :-) jan wrote: > Hi, > > I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the > root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section - > So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put > each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets > on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to > push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head > on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib > will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal > head... ?? > > Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with > countersinking the rear spar > > Any comments here greatly appreciated > > Jan > RV6 ... building almost from scratch ... ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 01:20:18 PM PST US From: jan Subject: RE: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Thanks for that ! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Kelley Sent: 23 September 2007 19:10 Subject: RE: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Just don't rivet there until the ribs are in place. As you put in each rib, rivet the rear spar to the next rib. Shop head inside, universal outside - keeps it looking neat. I had no problem reaching the heads behind the flap brace with a long set; just don't rivet the brace to the bottom skin until the last so you can run the set between the skin and brace. Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - finishing the canopy frame -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jan Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:27 AM Subject: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Hi, I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section - So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal head... ?? Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with countersinking the rear spar Any comments here greatly appreciated Jan RV6 ... building almost from scratch ... ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 01:25:20 PM PST US From: jan Subject: RE: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Thanks .. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Sent: 23 September 2007 21:03 Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question Jan, I put the shop heads on the aft side of the spar (factory head forward, inside the wing) for the rivets between the wing walk ribs. This made it relatively easy to slide the wing walk ribs into place. The rib can be tipped, twisted and flexed a bit in order to "slide" it into the end of the wing. Steve Allison RV-6A - no stinkin' pop rivets in the wing skins :-) jan wrote: > Hi, > > I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the > root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section - > So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put > each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets > on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to > push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head > on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib > will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal > head... ?? > > Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with > countersinking the rear spar > > Any comments here greatly appreciated > > Jan > RV6 ... building almost from scratch ... ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:22:55 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length Hi Paul, Take a look at the outside end of the fuel tank in profile. The fuel sender flange and gasket will eventually be installed mounted on the rear face of the rear baffle of the tank. For fine tuning; If you take great care as to the sender's correct vertical height and it's orientation as to left or right tank and clamp the sending unit onto the end flange outside the tank end. You should be able to adjust the float actuating wire length and shape to provide the correct movement of the sender arm. Be sure to check electrically with a meter or the gage itself. mark the gage as to left or right for later installation. I would use a piece of scrap material about the thickness of the gasket clamped to the tank rear flange with the sender temporarily mounted to it with a couple of screws or clecoes. Careful measuring with correct positioning and alignment of the sender mounting face with the rear tank baffle will be important. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Bryan" Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 9:36 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length > > I have to admit I am not sure how you would do this very accurately in a > closed tank. I presume the quick built tanks come with no senders > installed. Maybe another quick build kit builder will respond with > something more sensible but is it possible to take your senders to another > builder with an open set of tanks to get those cut, bent, and fitted for > maximum effectiveness? There probably still is some minor differences > between one tank and another, but you may be able to get pretty close. > > Tim > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul >> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:50 AM >> To: Valovich, Paul; rv-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length >> >> >> The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it >> out. >> >> -8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also, >> since the tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install >> Van's float- type fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions. >> Plan 16A makes one reference to the nearly horizontal segment as >> "Approximately 3 inches". However, the scale view is drawn showing that >> segment over 4 inches. No reference at all to the "vertical" segment >> length. >> >> Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing >> out how you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I >> may >> have filed away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing? >> >> I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks >> were >> talking about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that >> come form? >> Paul Valovich >> N192NM Reserved >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 03:34:41 PM PST US From: Scott Subject: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly cutter to do the cutting job. -- Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:01:57 PM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs Scott wrote: > > Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need > to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for > accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly > cutter to do the cutting job. > Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle. Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark in the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter. Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly! Sam Buchanan ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:47:36 PM PST US From: "David Burton" Subject: RE: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs Hi Scott, You can copy the drawing for the ribs or order a new one from Vans. They are only $3 or so for a full sized sheet. Cut it out and lay it in the rib to mark the centers. Just a silly suggestion: DON'T get on a roll and cut lightening holes in ALL the ribs. The tank ribs and ends of the tanks don't get "lightened". It's a hassle to fix them after they have big holes in them, ask me how I know... And no, it wasn't me, it was Van's themselves. I got one of the first set of wing kits that came with the lightening holes done at the factory. Whoever they gave that task to did them all... tank ribs and all! Dave -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:33 PM Subject: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly cutter to do the cutting job. -- Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:59:30 PM PST US From: Scott Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs I understand! I have experience with them...I used one to cut out all the holes in my new instrument panel on my Corben. Good thing there were only about 8 holes I had to make! :) Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) Sam Buchanan wrote: > > > Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly! > > Sam Buchanan > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:05:25 PM PST US From: Scott Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs Ooh, now there's some advice I can really use!! Yes, I probably would've done just that! I would have gotten the flycutter all set up and done every hole that was that size in one fell swoop. Thanks for saving me from having to send MORE money to Van... Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) David Burton wrote: > >Hi Scott, > >You can copy the drawing for the ribs or order a new one from Vans. They >are only $3 or so for a full sized sheet. Cut it out and lay it in the rib >to mark the centers. > >Just a silly suggestion: > >DON'T get on a roll and cut lightening holes in ALL the ribs. The tank ribs >and ends of the tanks don't get "lightened". It's a hassle to fix them >after they have big holes in them, ask me how I know... And no, it wasn't >me, it was Van's themselves. I got one of the first set of wing kits that >came with the lightening holes done at the factory. Whoever they gave that >task to did them all... tank ribs and all! > >Dave > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott >Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:33 PM >To: RV List; RV-4 List; RV-4@yahoogroups.com >Subject: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs > > >Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need >to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for >accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly >cutter to do the cutting job. > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:46:56 PM PST US From: "Patrick Kelley" Subject: RE: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs That's a great idea; I wish I'd thought of it. I carefully did the first rib and then used the stock I'd just removed to mark all the rest of the ribs. Even then, I'd clamp the rib in place and rotate the fly cutter by hand to check where it was cutting. By the way, that removed stock is useful for making small bits. Even the small holes yielded clamping pads, bolt washers (for when I was bolting the longerons to the jig), and shims. Waste nothing! Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - working on canopy frame -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:57 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs Scott wrote: > > Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need > to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for > accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly > cutter to do the cutting job. > Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle. Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark in the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter. Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly! Sam Buchanan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.